Over  the  Range  to  the 
Golden  Gate 


A  Complete  Tourist's  Guide 

To 

Colorado,  New  Mexico,  Utah,  Nevada,  California, 

Oregon,  Puget  Sound,  and  the  Great 

Northwest 


By  Stanley  Wood 
Revised  to  15104  by  C.  E.  Hooper 


Chicago 
R.  R.  Donnelley  &  Sons  Co.,  Publishers 

1906 


COPYRIGHT 

By  S.  K.  HOOPER 

1894 

REVISED    EDITION    COPYRIGHT 

By  S.  K.  HOOFER 
1904 


iTtir  Uahmtir  ^jrrss 

R.    R.    DONNELLEY   &  SONS  COMPANY,   PRINTERS 
CHICAGO 


V 

!  ) 

PREFACE. 


K 


T  is  no  light  undertaking  to  prepare  a  guide-book  which  shall  ade- 
quately describe  the  places  of  interest  on  the  great  trunk  lines 
between  Denver  on    the   hither  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  San 

Diego  at  the  southern  extremity  of  California,  and  Portland,  Seattle, 
ij  and  Tacoma,  the  three  commercial  entrepots  of  the  Great  North- 
west. Yet  such  is  the  undertaking  purposed.  In  a  work  of  this 
character  fact  must  ever  stand  paramount  to  fancy,  and  lucidity  of  expression 
take'  the  precedence.  No  attempt  will  be  made  at  "fine  writing";  every  effort 
will  be  made  to  state  just  such  facts  as  the  traveler  would  like  to  know,  and  to  state 
these  facts  in  clear  and  explicit  language. 

The  country  traversed  is  most  interesting,  abounding  in  scenes  of  the  greatest 
variety,  from  the  broad  and  billowy  expanse  of  the  boundless  prairie  to  the  rugged 
grandeur  of  the  American  Alps,  from  the  picturesque  quaintness  of  New  Mexico 
and  the  nomadic  wildness  of  the  Indian  reservations  to  the  polished  civilization  of 
metropolitan  cities.  There  is  no  journey  which  can  be  taken  on  the  continent  of 
North  America  that  presents  so  much  of  interest  to  the  tourist,  and  which  can  be 
taken  with  such  a  comparatively  moderate  outlay  of  lime  and  money,  as  the  one 
described  in  the  following  pages.  New  Mexico,  Colorado,  Nevada,  California, 
Oregon,  Washington  Territory!  What  a  field  for  investigation,  investment  or 
pleasure!  These  are  the  lands  of  gold,  of  silver,  of  coal,  of  agriculture,  of  all 
fruits  known  to  the  temperate  and  sub-tropical  zones.  These  are  the  lands  of 
new  endeavors,  of  fresh  impulses,  and  for  these  reasons  are  of  special  interest 
to  tourists,  business  men,  and  seekers  after  health  and  pleasure.  Aside  from  the 
interesting  character  of  the  subject  discussed,  there  is  also  a  special  value  in  the 
work  now  presented  to  the  reader,  inasmuch  as  great  care  has  been  taken  to  gather 
information  that  shall  be  found  statistically  accurate.  In  a  work  of  this  character 
it  is  difficult  to  combine  accurate  information  with  matters  of  general  interest  in 
such  a  way  that  neither  shall  have  an  undue  prominence.  The  writer  has  endeav- 
ored to  attain  this  desirable  medium.  One  thing  is  certain,  nothing  in  this  book  is 
venal  in  its  character.  The  opinions  here  expressed  are  those  of  the  writer;  the 
descriptions  of  scenes  given  here  are  reproductions  of  the  feelings  inspired  by  those 
scenes.  There  has  been  no  bias  in  any  direction.  On  the  contrary,  every  effort 
has  been  made  to  write  judicially,  and  at  the  same  time,  retain  the  enthusiasm 
which  the  traveler  naturally  feels  in  beholding  new  sights  and  scenes. 

As  an  aid  to  the  traveler  abundant  illustrations  have  been  prepared,  which 
will  give  the  purchaser  of  this  book  an  idea  of  what  he  may  expect  to  see;  and  which, 
after  he  has  beheld  these  places,  will  serve  as  a  reminder  of  those  pleasant  scenes 
which  by  their  assistance  can  never  fade  from  his  memory. 

It  has  been  the  endeavor  of  the  writer  to  meet  as  nearly  as  possible  the  wants  of 
all  classes  of  travelers.  Information  of  value  to  the  tourist  for  pleasure,  the  health 
seeker,  the  sportsman,  and  the  man  of  business,  will  be  found  in  the  pages  of  this 
book.     Nothing  has  been  written  in  the  interests  of  any  clique  or  class.     The 


27021 


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4 


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{lUU  iiti.^iiNi,..   aiiii.f'p 


PREFACE.  7 

truth,  and  nothing  but  the  truth,  has  been  told.  If  there  are  errors  they  arc  such 
as  must  necessarily  occur  in  the  compilation  of  a  work  covering  such  a  vast  extent 
of  territory.  Accuracy  has  been  aimed  at,  and  as  a  whole,  the  writer  can  vouch 
for  the  accuracy  of  what  will  be  found  herein.  The  hook  is  one  written  in  the  field 
and  not  in  the  study.  Facts  are  not  taken  at  second  hand.  The  author  writes 
of  what  he  saw  with  his  own  eyes,  and  not  what  he  read.  The  statistics  have  been 
gathered  from  authentic  sources,  and  have  been  condensed  into  the  most  compact 
and  convenient  form.  Hoping  the  book  may  \  rove  a  useful  companion  to  the 
traveler,  it  is  submitted  without  further  comment  to  the  public. 


dWWKH"S  *  * 


FROM  THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  TO  DENVER. 


HE  Missouri  River   lias  come    to   be    regarded,  in    a   general  way, 
as  the  boundary  line    between  the  East  and    the  West,  although, 

in  truth,  the:  terms  cast  and  west  are  extremely  elastic  in  their  appli- 
cation.    However,   for  the    purposes  of   this  book  we  will  consider 
that  all  on  the  sundown  side  of  the   Missouri  River  is  West,  and 
that  the  traveler  has  reached   one  of   the  three  great  entrepots  to 
this  vast  country  and  finds  himself  in  Omaha,  St.  Joseph,  or  Kansas  City.     Erom 
either  of  these  thriving  cities  the  journey  to  Denver  can  be  taken  by  way  of  first- 
class  transportation  lines  provided  with  all  the  modern  conveniences  and  luxuries. 

From  Omaha  one  has  choice  of  the  Burlington  Route,  the  Rock  Island,  and 
the  Union  Pacific,  and  from  Kansas  City  one  can  travel  by  any  of  the  above  lines 
with  an  additional  choice  between  the  Missouri  Pacific,  or  the  Atchison,  Topeka 
&  Santa  Fe  railroads.  With  Chicago  or  St.  Louis  as  the  initial  point  one  can  go 
direct  by  any  of  the  trunk  lines  to  the  Missouri  River  and  continue  his  journey  to 
Denverover  his  choice  among  the  routes  mentioned  above. 

The  trip  across  the  great  plains  from  the  Missouri  River  to  Denver  is  full  of 
interest  and  variety  to  one  who  beholds  this  vast  expanse  for  the  fust  time. 
Nothing  can  give  such  a  vivid  impression  of  the  greatness  of  our  country,  and  the 
adventurous  character  of  our  people,  as  the  sight  of  these  boundless  prairies  and  the 
habitations  of  the  hardy  pioneers  who  are  rapidly  turning  the  buffalo  sod  and 
exposing  the  rich  black  soil  to  the  fertilizing  action  of  the  sun  and  air,  and 
substituting  for  nature's  scant  forage,  abundant  harvests  of  corn  and  wheat. 
The  railroads,  for  a  distance  of  three  or  four  hundred  miles  to  the  west 
of  the  Missouri  River,  pass  through  thriving  cities,  to  which  a  com- 
paratively thickly  settled  agricultural  country  is  tributary.  Then  the 
newer  territory  is  reached,  the  towns  are  of  less  frequent  occurrence  and 
smaller  in  size,  the  plains  appear  more  nearly  in  their  native  stale,  only  dotted 
here  and  there  with  the  claim  cabins  of  the  settlers.  As  the  traveler  looks 
out  of  the  car  window  across  the  billowy  expanse,  he  sees  herds  of  cattle  and 
sheep,  grazing  on  the  rich  bunches  of  buffalo-grass,  and  occasionally  lie  will  catch 
a  glimpse  of  the  flying  form  of  an  antelope  disappearing  over  the  brow  of  a  distant 
rise  of  land.  Not  uninteresting  are  the  prairie  dog  villages  with  their  pretcrnaturally 
grave  inhabitants  sitting  on  their  haunches  like  diminutive  kangaroos,  and  the 
writer  has  seen  a  whole  carload  of  people  filled  with  the  most  pleasureable  excite- 
ment over  the  efforts  of  a  jack-rabbit  to  outspeed  the  iron  horse.  With  these  and 
many  other  novel  and  interesting  sights  the  time  is  whiled  away  until  some  traveler, 
more  experienced,  or  more  sharp  of  sight,  suddenly  cries  out,  "The  Mountains!" 
There  is  a  rush  to  his  side  of  the  car  and  everybody  gazes  earnestly,  and  amidst 
eager  explanations  and  doubting  comments  the  blue  of  the  sky  is  at  last  disintegrated 
from  the  blue  of  the  mountains,  and  the  most  skeptical  at  length  acknowledges 
that  the  stain  of  ultramarine,  with  its  undulating  sweep  against  the  western  horizon 
is  really  the  distance-enchanted  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.     Soon  patches  of 

9 


TO    THE   GOLDEN   GATE.  " 

fleecy  white  appear,  and  with  a  sigh  of  disappointment  the  traveler  dei  ides  that  the 
clouds  are  dropping  down  and  will  soon  shut  out  the  view  of  those  "sentinels  of 
enchanted  land,"  but  gazing  more  intently,  it  dawns  upon  the  mind  at  last  that 
those  glimmering  expanses  are  not  veils  of  cloud,  but  are  in  fail  mountain  fields 
of  everlasting  snow!  The  Snowy  Range  has  at  last  declared  itself,  and  from  this 
moment  until  the  transcontinental  journey  shall  have  been  accomplished,  the 
traveler  will  have  the  immediate  memory  or  the  intimate  presence  of  the  mountains 
with  him  continually. 

The  view  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  which  the  traveler  gains  on  approaching 
Denver  from  the  east  is  one  of  unsurpassed  beauty,  and  that  this  statement  may 
not  rest  on  the  dictum  of  this  book,  let  us  take  the  testimony  of  the  greatest  traveler, 
and  the  most  graceful  descriptive  writer  America  has  yet  produced.  Bayard 
Taylor  says:  "I  know  no  external  picture  of  the  Alps  that  can  be  placed  beside  it. 
If  you  take  away  the  valley  of  the  Rhone,  and  unite  the  Alps  of  Savoy  with  the 
Bernese  Overland,  you  might  obtain  a  tolerable  idea  of  this  view  of  the  Roi  kv 
Mountains.  Pike's  Peak  would  then  represent  the  Jungfrau,  a  nameless  snowv 
giant  in  front  of  you,  Monta  Rosa  and  Long's  Peak,  Mount  Blanc.  The  altitudes 
very  nearly  correspond,  and  there  is  a  certain  similarity  in  forms.     The  average 

height  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  however,  surpasses  that  of  the  Alps 

From  this  point  there  appears  to  be  three  tolerably  distinct  ranges.  The  first  rises 
from  two  to  three  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  plains,  is  cloven  asunder  by 
the  canons  of  the  streams,  streaked  with  the  dark  lines  of  the  pine,  which  feather  its 
summits  and  with  sunny,  steep  slopes  of  pasture.  Some  distance  behind  it  appears 
a  second  range,  of  nearly  double  the  height,  more  irregular  in  its  masses,  and  of  a 
dark  velvety  violet  hue.  Beyond,  leaning  against  the  sky,  are  the  snowy  peaks,  all 
of  which  are  from  thirteen  to  (nearly)  fifteen  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  These 
three  chains,  with  their  varying  but  never  discordant  undulations,  are  as  inspiring 
to  the  imagination  as  they  are  enchanting  to  the  eye.  They  hint  of  concealed 
grandeurs  in  all  the  glens  and  parks  among  them,  and  yet  hold  you  back  with  a 
doubt  whether  they  can  be  more  beautiful  near  at  hand  than  when  beheld  at  this 
distance." 

The  doubt  so  gravely  expressed  in  the  last  sentence  of  our  quotation,  the  trav- 
eler, when  he  shall  have  taken  the  transcontinental  tour,  will  be  fully  able  to 
resolve  for  himself.  He  will  have  beheld  a  bewildering  variety  of  beauty,  and  in 
the  quiet  evenings  at  home,  he  will  find  material  for  the  most  exquisite  enjoyment 
of  pleasing  reminiscence  and  reverie. 

With  such  an  approach,  Denver  must  needs  be  something  more  than  ordinary 
not  to  strike  the  traveler  as  a  discord  in  the  grand  harmony  of  the  scene.  It  is  a 
fact,  and  it  is  a  pleasure  for  the  writer  to  record  it,  that  Denver  is  never  a  disap- 
pointment. What  its  peculiar  charms  may  be,  and  how  it  appears  to  the  stranger 
within  its  gates,  will  be  described  in  the  succeeding  chapter. 


VIEW   OF   PUBLIC   BUILDINGS,    DENVER 


CTY   HALL.  P08TOFFICE   AND   CUSTOM    HOUSE. 

COURT    HOUSE,    CITY   AND    COUNT*     ~c   DENVER.  8TATE   CAPITOL   BUILDING. 

OLD    MINT. 


FROM  DENVER  TO  PUEBLO. 


DENVER, 

Capital  of  Colorado. 

Population,  170,000. 
Elevation,  5,198  feet. 


There  are  only  a  few  cities  in  the  world  that 
please  at  first  sight.  Denver  is  one  of  this  favored 
few.  The  liking  one  gets  for  Boston,  Philadelphia 
or  London  is  an  acquired  taste,  but  one  falls  in  love 
at  once  with  Paris,  Denver,  or  San  Francisco.  It 
docs  not  follow  that  because  the  cities  mentioned 
are  immediately  pleasing,  they  must  of  necessity 
resemble  each  other,  any  more  than  that  a  peach, 
an  apple,  or  an  orange  should  have  a  similar  flavor. 
We  like  the  fruit  and  we  like  the  cities  without  having  to  learn  to  like  them,  but  not 
for  the  same  reasons.  One  feels  a  sense  of  exhilaration  in  the  atmosphere  of  Den- 
ver. The  grand  view  of  the  Snowy  Range  of  mountains  to  the  north  and  west, 
and  the  broad  expanse  of  horizon-bounded  plains  to  the  east  and  south  exalt  the 
spirits,  the  bland  but  bracing  breezes  cool  the  fevered  pulse,  and  the  abundant 
oxygen  of  the  air  thrills  one  like  a  draught  of  effervescing  champagne.  A  beau- 
tiful city,  beautifully  situated,  is  Denver,  with  broad,  tree-shaded  streets,  with 
public  buildings  of  massive  proportions  and  attractive  architecture,  with  residences 
erected  in  accordance  with  the  canons  of  good  taste,  with  innumerable  lawns  of 
shaven  grass,  ornamented  with  shrubs  and  flowers,  with  charming  suburbs  and  an 
outlying  country,  studded  with  fertile  farms  and  flowering  or  fruiting  orchards, 
peace  is  within  her  duellings  and  plenty  within  her  palaces.  Denver  has  now  nine- 
teen railroads,  an  extensive  street  railway  system  operating  one  hundred  and  sixty 
miles  of  electric  railroad,  reaching  all  the  various  portions  of  the  city.  Strangers 
will  find  that  the  most  convenient  and  satisfactory  manner  of  viewing  the  city  is 
from  the  windows  of  the  street  cars,  and  to  this  end  is  operated  a  "Seeing  Denver" 
car,  which  makes  a  tour,  twice  daily,  of  almost  the  entire  city.  The  town  is  lighted 
by  gas  and  electricity,  its  principal  streets  arc  paved  with  asphaltum,  has  paid  fire 
and  police  departments,  and  obtains  its  water  from  mountain  sources  by  means  of 
Holly  works,  and  from  over  600  artesian  wells,  varying  in  depth  from  350  to  1,600 
feet.  The  public  buildings,  exclusive  of  churches  and  schools,  cost  $4,771,000. 
The  real  estate  belonging  to  the  city  is  worth  $3,439,207,  the  bonded  debt  is 
$1,422,800,  and  the  assessed  valuation  of  Denver  is  nearly  $110,000,000.  The 
commerce  of  Denver  is  now  annually  not  less  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  millions  ot 
dollars.  Denver  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  Cherry  Creek  and  the  Platte  River, 
and  is  the  capital  of  the  State,  and  the  seat  of  the  "City  and  County  of  Denver." 
All  the  railroads  which  enter  Denver  land  their  passengers  at  the  Union  Depot,  a 
massive  and  handsome  edifice  of  native  stone;  originally  built  in  1SS0,  and  destroyed 
by  fire  in  the  spring  of  1894,  now  re-erected,  more  beautiful  and  complete  than  before. 
Opposite  the  main  entrance  of  the  Union  Depot,  on  Seventeenth  Street,  and  at  the 
south  end  of  the  building,  on  Sixteenth  Street,  electric  car  lines  diverge  to  all  parts 
of  the  city,  passing  the  principal  hotels  and  all  points  of  interest.  On  the  town- 
ward  side  of  the  Union  Depot  are  the  carriage  stands,  and  if  arrangements  for 

13 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE. 


l5 


transportation  have  not  already  been  made  on  the  train,  with  the  carriage  company's 
agent,  before  reaching  the  city,  a  carriage  can  be  engaged  here.  Prices  are  regu- 
lated by  ordinance,  and  extortion  prohibited  by  law.  There  are  many  objects  of 
interest  to  see  in  Denver:  The  smelters,  the  public  buildings,  the  Tabor  Grand 
Opera  House,  the  Broadway  Theater,  Brown  Palace  Hotel — probably  the  finest  in 
the  United  States — magnificent  business  blocks,  beautiful  parks,  the  beau- 
tiful private  residences,  the  homes  of  mining  princes  and  cattle  barons,  the  lovely 
suburbs,  and  Fort  Logan,  the  United  States  Military  Post.     The  hotel  accom- 


COURT  HOUSE,  CITY  AND  COUNTY  OF  DENVER. 


modations  of  Denver  are  probably  the  most  complete  of  any  city  of  its  population 
in  the  country.  There  are  ten  first-class  hotels,  provided  with  all  modern  improve- 
ments, to  say  nothing  of  some  sixty  odd  less  pretentious  ones.  A  day,  or  better  two 
days,  can  be  profitably  spent  in  D^  ver,  and  then,  refreshed  and  rested  from  the 
long  ride  across  the  plains  from  the  Missouri  River  or  beyond,  the  tourist  is  ready  to 
resume  his  transcontinental  journey.  If  he  wishes  to  behold  the  wonders  of 
nature,  and  to  get  a  familiar  acquaintance-  with  the  grandeur  of  the  mountains,  he 
will  take  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroai",  which  by  universal  acclaim  has  been 
designated  "The  Scenic  Line  of  the  World." 

Seated  in  a  comfortable  car,  whose  large  windows  give  an  excellent  outlook 
on  the  scenery,  the  traveler  is  ready  and  anxious  to  be  off.     The  busy  Union  Depot 


i6 


OVER    THE   RANGE 


may  amuse  him  for  a  moment,  but  anticipation  of  the  wonders  in  store  makes  him 
impatient  of  delay.  Soon  the  conductor  gives  the  signal  to  the  engineer,  the  inev- 
itable late  passenger  is  seen  chasing  the  rear  end  of  the  Pullman  out  of  the  depot,  and 
whether  he  catches  it  or  not,  one  thing  is  assured,  the  journey  to  the  Pacific  coast 
has  begun,  and  from  this  time  on  the  eye  and  mind  will  both  find  plenty  to 
do  in  noting  and  recording  Nature's  most  marvelous  works.  The  first  stop  is 
made  at 

I  tn  I'll  h;i  III.  The  station  for  the  suburb  of  West  Denver  and  the  site  of  the 
great  shops  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The  buildings  of  the  machine 
shops  cover  an  area  of  five  acres,  and  were  erected  at  a  cost  of  $300,000.  (Distance 
from  Denver,  2  miles.) 

Overland  Park  is  a  pleasant  suburb  to  the  southwest  of  Denver,  and  is 


COLORADO   STATE   CAPITOL,   DENVER. 


supplied  with  one  of  the  best  race  courses  in  the  West.  It  is  a  fashionable  resort, 
and  connected  with  Denver  by  the  suburban  train  service  of  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  Railroad. 

Petersburg'  is  a  small  town  surrounded  by  farms,  market  gardens,  and 
plats  laid  out  as  additions  to  Denver.  (Distance  from  Denver,  8  miles.)  To 
the  west  of  Petersburg,  2  \  miles  distant,  lies  Fort  Logan,  the  United  States  Mili- 
tary Post. 

Fort  Logan.  A  regimental  post  of  United  States  troops  has  been  here 
established,  and  has  become  the  center  of  great  interest.  The  quarters  are  ele- 
gant and  substantial,  consisting  of  handsome  brick  edifices.  The  parade  ground 
is  ample  in  proportions,  and  no  expense  has  been  spared  to  make  this  Post  a  model 
of  its  kind.  The  military  band  gives  frequent  concerts,  and  the  citizens  of  Denver 
take  great  interest  in  and  make  frequent  excursions  to  the  Post.  The  Denver  & 
Rio  Grande  Railroad  has  established  a  very  complete  suburban  train  service 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  Post  and  the  general  public,  which  is  very  largely 
patronized. 

Littleton    is  prettily  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Platte  River,  is  the 


TO    THE  GOLDEN    GATE.  1 7 

center  of  a  good  agricultural  country,  and  is  destined  to  be  the  location  of  the 
suburban  residences  of  many  (if  Denver's  best  citizens.  Already  an  adequate 
suburban  train  service  has  been  inaugurated  for  the  convenience  of  persons  having 
country  homes  at  this  delightful  spot.  (Population,  1,200.  Distance  from  Den- 
ver, 10  miles.     Elevation,  5,372  feet.) 

Wollllirst.  Four  miles  beyond  Littleton,  the  home  of  former  United  States 
Senator  Wolcott. 

Aceqilia.  A  small  station  for  the  accommodation  of  ranchmen.  TT.-re  the 
High  Line  Canal,  one  of  those  great  irrigating  ditches  characteristic  of  Colorado, 
crosses  the  track  and  takes  its  winding  way  to  the  northeast  over  the  rolling  plains, 
having  under  its  fertilizing  power  at  least  a  hundred  thousand  acres  of  otherwise- 
arid  land.  (Population  nominal.  Distance  from  Denver,  17  miles.  Elevation, 
5,530  feet.) 

Setlalia.  A  little  village.  Home  market  and  post-office  for  cattle-growers 
and  ranchmen.  (Population,  200.  Distance  from  Denver,  25  miles.  Elevation, 
5335  ^et.) 

Castle  Rock.  The  town  takes  its  name  from  a  peculiar  upthrust  of  rock 
on  the  summit  of  a  conical  hill,  resembling,  in  the  distance,  an  old  martelle  tower, 
and  nearer  by  an  irregular  pentagonal  structure.  Under  the  shadow  of  this  hill 
and  surmounting  tower  lies  the  town,  which  is  a  pretty  village  and  the  count}-  seat 
of  Douglas  County.  Fine  quarries  of  red  sandstone  are  worked  here,  and  pastoral 
industries  contribute  to  the  prosperity  of  the  town.  (Population,  500.  Distance 
from  Denver,  33  miles.     Elevation,  6,219  feet.) 

Doilg"laS.  A  station  near  which  are  stone  quarries  and  grazing  lands.  (Popu- 
lation nominal.     Distance  from  Denver,  35  miles.     Elevation,  6,325  feet.) 

Between  Douglas  and  Palmer  Lake  are  the  small  stations  of  Glade,  Larkspur, 
and  Greeland. 

Perry  Park  is  reached  by  stage  from  Larkspur  station.  This  park  abounds 
in  curious  formations  of  red  sandstone;  is  watered  by  sparkling  brooks  and  is  one 
of  the  most  popular  resorts  near  Dei  ver. 

As  the  train  rolls  into  the  station  the   traveler 


PALMER     LAKE. 

Health  and  Pleasure 

Resort. 

Population,  250. 

Distance  from  Denver, 

52  miles. 

Elevation,  7,237  feet. 

Eating  Station. 


sees  to  his  left  a  beautiful  little  lake  cradled  in 
the  hills.  Along  the  shore  has  been  placed  a  hand- 
some cut  stone  embankment,  and  a  neat  and  taste- 
ful boat-house  has  been  erected  and  well  storked 
with  boats.  The  lake  is  a  natural  body  of  water, 
though  the  fact  that  a  fountain  plays  in  its  center, 
casting  a  jet  of  water  to  the  height  of  80  feet,  leads 
many  to  suppose  that  it  is  entirely  artificial.  Palmer 
Lake  in  addition  to  being  a  place  of  great  beauty,  is  a  natural  curiosity,  poised 
as  it  is,  exactly  on  tin-  summit  of  the  "divide,"'  a  spur  of  the  outlying  range  of  the 
Rockies  extending  eastward  into  the  great  plains  and  from  the  crest  of  this 
summit  the  waters  divide  flowing  northward  into  the  Platte,  which  empties  into  the 
Missouri,  and  southward  into  the  Arkansas  as  it  wends  its  way  to  the  Mississippi. 
Red-roofed  picturesque  cottages  nestle  here  and  there  among  the  hills,  gayly  painted 
boats  float  gracefully  upon  the  bright  blue  waters,  and  on  either  hand  rugged  peaks, 
pine  clad  and  broken  by  castellated  rocks,  rise  into  a  sky  whose  cerulean  hue  is 
reflected  in  the  placid  waters  of  the  lake.  Excellent  hotel  and  livery  establishments 
furnish  good  accommodations  for  sojourners. 


TO    THE   GOLD  EX    GATE.  1 9 

Glen  Park,  an  assembly  ground  modeled  after  the  famous  Chautauqua,  and 
destined  to  become  equally  as  popular  in  the  West  as  its  prototype  in  th< 
is  only  half  a  mile  beyond  Palmer  Lake.  Obje<  tsof  natural  interest  are  abundant 
and  the  walks  and  drives  to  Glen  D'eau,  Bellview  Point,  ben  Lomond,  the  An  lied 
Rocks  and  the  canons  and  glens  adjacent  afford  material  for  enjoyment  in  the 
seeing  and  for  many  pleasant  memories.  One  hundred  and  fifty  acres  are  com- 
prised in  the  town  site.  The  park  is  at  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Range, 
and  is  sheltered  at  the  rear  by  a  towering  cliff  2,000  feet  high,  and  on  the  two  sides 
by  small  spurs  of  the  range.  A  noble  growth  of  large  pines  is  scattered  over  the 
Park.  A  skillful  landscape  engineer  has  taken  advantage  of  every  natural  beauty 
and  studied  the  best  topographical  effect,  in  laying  out  the  streets,  parks,  reservoirs, 
drives,  walks,  trails,  and  lookout  points.  It  is  a  spot  that  must  be  seen  to  be  appre- 
c  iated,  and  every  visitor,  whose  opinion  has  been  learned,  has  come  away  captivated. 
There  are  building  sites  for  all  tastes.  Some  have  a  grand  lookout,  taking  in  a 
sweep  of  the  valley  for  a  distance  of  50  miles,  with  the  fountain  in  Palmer  Lake 
and  the  beautiful  lake  itself  in  view.  Elephant  Rock,  Table  Mountain,  the  town 
of  Monument,  the  railroad  trains  from  both  ways  for  over  an  hour  before  reaching 
the  station  can  be  seen.  Others  have  pretty  vistas,  partlv  hidden  by  the  pine 
branches,  promises,  so  to  speak  of  grand  views,  but  not  so  ambitious  as  the  first. 
Still  others  are  sylvan  nooks  where  the  shades  are  deepest  and  the  murmur  of  the 
cool  waters  of  the  babbling  brooks  makes  music  forever. 

Monument.  The  five  miles  ride  from  Palmer  Lake  to  Monument  is  interest- 
ing. On  the  left  are  giant  upthrusts  of  brilliant  red  rocks  castellated  in  shape  and 
reaching  an  altitude  of  two  and  three  hundred  feet.  The  town  takes  its  name  from 
the  creek  which  flows  near,  and  the  creek  is  so  designated  from  the  curious  monu- 
mental forms  of  rock  alonr  its  course.  To  the  right  is  the  Front  Range  of  the 
Rockies,  which  the  road  parallels  from  Denver  to  Pueblo,  and  near  the  center  of  this 
stretch  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  stands  Pike's  Peak.  Agriculture  and 
pastoral  industries  are  tributary  to  Monument.  (Population,  500.  Distance  from 
Denver,  56  miles.     Elevation,  6,974  feet.) 

Two  miles  beyond  is  Borst,  and  four  miles  further  Husted,  both  men'  side 
tracks  for  convenient  shipping  of  cattle  and  produce. 

Monument  Park  is  reached  by  private  conveyance  from  Edgerton  Station  — 
distance  from  Denver,  67  miles.  This  valley  is  quite  remarkable  for  the  very 
fantastic  forms  into  which  the  action  of  air  and  water,  through  long  reaches  of  time, 
have  worn  the  sandstone  rocks,  forming  grotesque  groups  of  figures  that  very 
generally  keep  their  broad  brimmed  sombreros,  formed  of  iron  stained  cap-rock. 
Visitors  to  Monument  Park  obtain  a  line  view  of  Pike's  Peak  and  Cheyenne  Moun- 
tain Range.  A  hotel  in  the  Park  is  open  at  all 
times  for  the  accommodation  of  guests,  and  can 
furnish  saddlehorses  and  carriages  on  premises. 
The  grotesque  group  of  figures  into  which  the 
cream-colored  sandstone  rocks  have  been  worn, 
some  of  them  resembling  human  forms,  have  been 
given  quaint,  descriptive  titles,  viz.:  Dutch  Wedding, 
Quaker  Meeting,  I. one  Sentinel,  Dutch  Parliament, 
Vulcan's  Anvil,  and  Workshop,  Romeo  and  Juliet, 
Necropolis  or  Silent  City,  The  Duchess,  Mother 
Judy,  and  Colonnade;  all  of  these  and  many  others  too  numerous  to  mention  are 
within  easy  walking  distance  to  "The  Pines."     The  Park  is  a  favorite  resort  and 


Colorado  Springs. 

Residence  City  and 
Health  Resort. 

Population,  25,000. 

Distance  from  Denver 
75  Miles. 

Elevation,  5,992  feet. 


TO    THE  GOLDEX    GA  TE. 


21 


has   comfortable   accommodations   for  guests.     (Population,   nominal.     Distance 
from  Denver,  67  miles.     Elevation,  6,354  feet.) 

Many  of  the  most  influential  business  men  of  Colorado  have  their  residence 
in  Colorado  Springs.  No  more  delightful  home  city  can  be  found  than  this. 
Mansions  and  cottages  of  the  highest  architectural  beauty  abound,  and  the  society 
is  composed  of  cultivated  and  wealthy  people. 

The  town  was  originally  laid  out  as  a  health  resort,  and  while  it  still  maintains  its 
superiority  in  this  respect,  has  grown  beyond  that  single  characteristic,  and  is  now  a 
thriving  commercial  place,  in  addition  to  being 
a  favorite  residence  city.  The  town  is  sheltered 
on  the  west  by  the  range  of  mountains  with 
Pike's  Peak  in  the  center,  on  the  east  by  blufTs, 
on  the  north  by  the  spur  of  the  mountains  called 
the  "Divide, "  and  on  the  southwest  by  Chey- 
enne Mountain.  The  streets  arc  unusually 
wide,  one  hundred  feet,  and  the  avenues  are 
160  feet  broad.  Trees  line  both  sides  of  the 
streets,  and  on  Nevada  Avenue,  the  central 
street  of  the  city,  there  are  six  rows  of  trees, 
two  on  each  side  and  two  down  the  center. 
Water  for  irrigation  is  brought  into  the  town 
by  means  of  a  winding  canal,  and  cold,  clear 
water,  for  domestic  uses,  is  conducted  from 
mountain  sources  in  iron  pipes.  The  pres- 
sure is  such  that  no  fire  engines  are  necessarv, 
the  water  being  forced  from  hydrants  to  the 
tops  of  the  tallest  buildings.  Monument 
Creek  flows  west  of  the  town,  and  the  Fon- 
taine qui  Bouille  to  the  south,  where  the  two 
streams  form  a  junction.  The  scenery 
around  Colorado  Springs  Is  of  a  very  inter- 
esting and  attractive  character.  The  hotels 
of  Colorado  Springs  arc  noted  for  their  excel- 
lence; special  attention  being  paid  to  the 
entertainment  of  tourists.  There  arc  am- 
ple accommodations  and  of  different  grades  to  suit  all  tastes  and  pockets.  The 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  has  a  very  handsome  stone  depot,  erected  in 
accordance  with  good  taste  and  correct  architecture.  The  plains  to  the  cast  and 
the  mountains  to  the  west  give  unlimited  variety.  Cheyenne  Canon,  Austin's 
Bluffs,  Crystal  Park,  Broadmoor,  Cameron's  Cone  Monument  Park,  and  Manitou, 
with  its  environs,  are  all  within  the  radius  of  nine  miles,  and  accessible  by  trolley  lines. 

Cheyeillie  Mountain.  It  is  impossible  to  contemplate  the  grandeur  of 
Cheyenne's  bold  outlines  and  great  massiveness,  and  to  become  in  the  least  familiar 
with  its  ever- varying  play  of  light  and  shadow,  without  acknowledging  the  striking 
beauty  of  this  noble  mountain.  From  Colorado  Springs,  a  superb  view  of  its  front 
is  seen.  Looking  at  the  mountain  it  will  be  observed  that  at  almost  the  nearest 
point,  in  reality  four  miles  distant,  the  base  of  the  mountain  is  deeply  deft  by  two 
yawning  chasms,  the  outer  rocks  of  which  present  sharp,  jagged  points.  These 
clefts  are,  respectively,  the  North  and  South  Cheyenne  Canons.  They  certainly 
should  be  visited  by  every  traveler  who  has  an  eye  for  the  beautiful.     On  the  eastern 


RAINBOW   FALLS- 


TO    THE  GOLD  EX   GATE.  23 

side  of  Cheyenne  Mountain,  and  accessible  from  South  Cheyenne  Canon,  is  the 
grave  of  the  well-known  author  and  poet,  "II.  II."  The  direct  road  from  Manitou 
takes  the  tourist  a  distance  of  eight  miles,  turns  off  to  the  southward  from  tin-  road 
to  Colorado  Springs,  on  the  top  of  the  hill  half  a  mile  from  the  town;  they  1  an  also 
be  reached  by  making  a  detour  of  one  and  a  half  miles  through  Colorado  Springs, 
and  following  the  continuation  of  Nevada  avenue  to  the  southward.  Either  road  is 
pleasant,  and  the  drive  or  ride  is  one  replete  with  interest,  and  abounding  in 
attractive  scenery.  An  electric  car  line  connects  Colorado  Springs  with  the  foot  of 
the  mountain  and  the  canons. 

Broadmoor.  Nestling  under  the  shadow  of  Cheyenne  Mountain  lies  the 
famous  Broadmoor  resort.  Connected  with  Colorado  Springs  and  Manitou  by  an 
electric  railway,  and  therefore  easy  of  access  from  cither  of  these  places,  this  beau- 
tiful spot,  with  its  fine  casino,  lake,  drives,  etc.,  is  one  of  the  many  attractions  sur- 
rounding the  Western  Spa. 

Colorado  City.  This  town,  once  the  seat  of  the  State  capital,  is  two 
miles  west  of  Colorado  Springs,  on  the  Manitou  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  Railroad.  Located  in  this  thriving  little  town  are  extensive  railroad  repair 
shops,  three  large  cyanide  ore  reduction  works  for  handling  the  output  of  the 
famed  Cripple  Creek  mines,  making  it  one  of  the  principal  cities  of  the  State. 
(Population,  3,500.     Distance  from  Denver,  77  miles.     Elevation,  6,110  feet.) 

The  one  resort  of  all  the  West  is  certainly 
Manitou.  The  attractions  of  this  watering  place 
have  secured  for  it  fame,  and  fame  secures  for  it 
largely  increasing  patronage  each  year.  No  resort 
has  had  a  more  rapid  growth  than  this,  and  none 
has  more  truly  deserved  its  prosperity.  There  are 
more  places  of  extraordinary  interest  to  visit  in  the 
vicinity  of  Manitou  than  can  be  found  contiguous  to 
any  other  resort  in  the  world.  It  is  situated  six 
miles  from  Colorado  Springs,  immediately  at  the 
foot  of  Pike's  Peak.  Here  are  the  famous  effervescent  soda  and  iron  springs  which 
in  an  early  day  gave  the  name  of  "Springs"  to  the  town  of  Colorado  Springs. 
A  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  unites  the  two  plat  es,  over  which 
trains  run  daily  with  sufficient  frequency  to  accommodate  the  most  exacting. 
A  trolley  line  also  connects  the  three  towns  of  Colorado  Springs,  Colorado  City,  and 
Manitou.  There  are  a  thousand  ways  in  which  to  enjoy  one's  self  in  Manitou.  A 
favorite  pleasure  is  that  of  riding.  The  saddle  horses  are  excellent.  Comfortable 
saddles  for  ladies,  and  well-trained  horses  are  furnished  by  all  the  livery  stables  at 
reasonable  prices.  A  burro  (donkey)  brigade  is  a  feature  for  the  special  benefit  of  the 
children,  a  careful  guide  taking  the  little  ones  for  a  ride  every  morning.  Carriage 
riding  and  excursions  on  foot  are  excellent  meansof  diversion.  Following  is  a  partial 
list  of  places  of  interest  near  Manitou,  with  the  distan<  e  in  miles  from  town  attai  hed : 

Manitou  Grand  Caverns 2 

Cave  of  the  Winds x 

Ute  Pass  and  Rainbow  Falls    1  ', 

Red  Canon    1 

C  rystal  Park   3 


MANITOU. 

Watering  Place, 

Mineral  Springs  and 

Health  Resort. 

Population,  2,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
80  miles. 

Elevation,  6,3i8  feet. 


Garden  of  the  Gods 


3 


G  len  Eyrie r 


TO    THE  GOLDEN    GATE. 


25 


Summit  of  Pikes,  by  rail n 

Summit  of  Pikes,  by  trail i? 

Seven  Lakes,  by  horse  trail    o 

Seven  Lakes,  by  carriage  road 25 

North  Cheyenne  Canon    gl 

South  Cheyenne  Canon o 

Broadmoor  Casino,  by  electric  railway 7 


In  addition  to  these  well-known  localities  there  are  scores  of  canons,  caves, 
.water-falls,  and  charming  nooks  which  the  sojourner  for  health  or  pleasure  can  seek 
out  for  himself.  The  village  is  thronged  with  visitors  throughout  the  sum- 
mer months;  it  is  some- 
what cooler  and  less  dry 
than  Colorado  Springs  in 
the  summer,  and  warmer 
in  winter.  The  springs  all 
contain  more  or  less  soda, 
and  some  iron.  They  are 
peculiarly  adapted  for  the 
dyspepsia  of  the  consump- 
tive, and  the  Ute  Iron 
Spring  is  especially  remark- 
able for  its  blood-making 
qualities.  For  the  pleasure 
seeker  and  the  invalid, 
Manitou  is  one  of  the  most 
satisfactory  resorts  in  the 
State.  During  the  season 
the  hotels  are  filled  with 
guests  from  all  parts  of 
the  Union.  Society  is 
represented  by  many  of  its 
best  people,  the  evenings 
are  made  merry  with  hops 
and  social  gatherings,  and 
the  days  delightful  with 
drives  and  rides  and  walks 
among  the  myriads  of  at- 
tractions this  place  affords. 

T  h  e  C  ripple 
Creek  Short  Line. 
From  Colorado  Springs  to 
Cripple  Creek  and  Victor 
runs  the  recently  con- 
structed Colorado  Springs 
&  Cripple  Creek  District 
Railway,  primarily  built  into 
the  marvelously  rich  min- 
ing region  of  Cripple  Creek 
as  a  means  of  hauling  out  THE  SEVEN   FALLS,   CHEYENNE  CANON. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN   GA  TE  27 

its  gold  and  silver  ores,  but  more  noted  perhaps  on  account  of  its  most  astoundinglv 
beautiful  scenery.  The  ride  of  45  miles  from  Colorado  Springs  to  Cripple  (reck 
District  is  one  continuous  panorama  of  nature's  most  gorgeous  mountain  and 
canon  scenery,  condensing,  as  it  were,  the  glories  of  the  world  within  the  compass 
of  a  two  and  a  half  hours'  trip.  It  starts  where  the  beauty  begins,  it  chooses  tin- 
most  lovely  spots  as  its  pathway,  and  seems  to  lead  us  to  a  very  high  mountain 
apart,  whence  we  may  behold  the  glories  of  the  world. 

TheGreat  Gold  Camp  of  Cripple  Creek,    Statistics  are  usually  drv 

reading,  but  the  record  of  this  wonderful  district  is  so  remarkable  that  a  few  figures 
will  prove  interesting.  But  twelve  years  ago  gold  was  first  discovered  here  in  pay- 
ing quantities.  In  that  brief  period  it  has  Income  one  of  the  greatest  gold  pro- 
ducing regions  in  the  world,  and  in  rapid  development  and  in  the  richness  of  its 
ores,  nothing  like  it  has  ever  been  known  before.  In  twelve  years  the  cattle  ranges 
have  been  transformed  into  a  populous  district  with  60,000  people. 

The  production  to  date  approximates  $136,000,000  in  value.  In  1002  it  was 
$22,000,000.  The  dividends  paid  to  date  amount  to  over  $26,000,000,  nearly 
$3,000,000  having  been  paid  in  1^02. 

Before  Colorado  had  acquired  a  name.  Pike's 
Peak  was  the  landmark  of  the  Indian,  the  trapper, 
and  the  explorer.  In  later  times  it  was  the  beacon 
by  which  the  adventurous  gold-hunters  steered  their 
prairie  schooners  into  the  wonderful  and  mysterious 
West;  now  it  has  become  the  goal  of  those  in  search 
of  the  grand  and  beautiful  in  Nature,  the  enjoy- 
ments of  an  attractive  summer  resort,  or  the  resto 
ration  of  impaired  health.  The  mountain  is  one  of 
great  beauty,  and  never  entirely  discrowned  of  snow.  The  Cog  Wheel  Railroad  to 
the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak  is  the  most  novel  railway  in  the  world.  When  it  reaches 
its  objective  point  above  the  clouds,  at  a  height  of  14,147  feet  above  sea-level,  it 
renders  almost  insignificant,  by  comparison,  the  famous  cogway  up  Mt.  Washington 
and  the  incline  railway  up  the  Rhigi  in  Switzerland.  From  its  station  in  Manitou. 
just  above  the  Iron  Springs,  to  the  station  on  the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  the  Manitou 
&  Pike's  Peak  Railway  is  just  eight  and  three-quarters  miles  in  length.  The  cost 
of  construction  of  the  road  was  a  half  million  of  dollars.  While  it  could  have  been 
built  for  many  thousands  of  dollars  less  by  putting  in  wooden  bridges  and  trestles, 
light  ties  and  light  rails,  those  in  charge  of  the  building  of  the  road  would  not  con- 
sent to  the  use  of  any  flimsy  material  for  the  sake  of  the  saving  of  any  sum  of  money 
— a  substantial  road  that  would  insure  absolute  safety  being  economical,  as  well  as 
a  guarantee  for  putting  the  road  from  the  start  on  a  paying  basis.  The  railroad 
closely  follows  Ruxton  Creek,  generally  at  an  elevation  of  two  or  three  hundred 
feet  above  it;  the  sides  of  the  Glen  are  clothed  with  beautiful  pines  and  spruces. 
Some  very  pretty  falls  are  passed  on  the  way,  two  of  whii  h  are  named  respectively, 
the  Shelter  and  the  Minnehaha.  Stupendous  granite  boulders  are  in  places  piled 
up  in  chaotic  confusion  over  the  stream,  frequently  hiding  it  from  view.  Two 
prominent  ones  are  plainly  visible  from  Manitou,  and  are  appropriately  named  Gog 
and  Magog.  One  of  the  most  <  harming  features  during  the  ascent  is  the  oppor- 
tunity afforded  for  exquisite  views  of  the  world  below,  on  looking  back  through  the 
pine  trees  with  the  far-stretching  plains  glowing  in  the  sun  and  forming  a  golden 
horizon.  It  goes  without  saying  that  the  view  from  the  summit  is  grand  beyond 
description.     To  any  one  accustomed  to  mountain  climbing,  no  guide  is  required  in 


PIKES   PEAK. 

Colorado's  Landmark. 

Elevation, 
14,147  feet. 


PUEBLO. 

Commercial  and 
Manufacturing  City. 

Population,  45,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
120  miles. 

Elevation,  4,672  feet. 
Dining  Station. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  29 

making  the  ascent  of  Pike's  Peak,  as  the  trail  is  good  and  well  defined,  and  there  is 

a  station  on  the  summit  where  visitors  ran  ob  ain  food  and  shelter. 

Fountain.     A  pretty  little  town  on  the  Fontaine  qui  Bouille  Creek,  fou 
miles  south  of  Colorado  Springs.     The  town  has  taken  a  new  growth  within  ret  enl 
years,   and  bring  surrounded   by  a  good  grazing  and  agricultural  country,   has  a 
fair  prospect  of  permanent  improvement.     (Population,  :oo.     Distance  from  Den- 
ver, 88  miles.     Elevation,  5,568  feet.) 

There  are  between  Fountain  and  Pueblo,  side-track  stations  as  follows:  Buttes 
Wigwam,  Pinon,  Eden  and  Dundee.  These  places  an-  useful  to  the  railroad  and 
convenient  for  the  residents  of  the  surrounding  country,  but  they  possess  little  01 
no  interest  for  the  traveler.  All  the  way  from  Denver  to  Pueblo  the  traveler  has  tin 
Front  Range  of  mountains  on  his  right,  to  the  west,  while  on  his  left  are  the  great 
plains.  Below  Colorado  Springs  the  country  is  very  fertile,  and  good  crops  art 
grown  wherever  water  for  irrigation  can  be  procured. 

"The  Pittsburg  of  the  West"  is  a  title  often 
conferred  on  Pueblo,  and  it  is  the  name  which 
pleases  its  citizens  best,  and  which  comes  the 
nearest  to  expressing  the  salient  characteristics 
of  the  town.  It  is  a  live  city,  full  of  enter] irisi 
and  push,  and  it  has  been  favored  by  Nature, 
both  in  the  matter  of  its  immediate  situation  ami 
of  its  surroundings.  Plenty  of  coal  is  found  not 
fifty  miles  away,  iron  ore  is  not  more  distant,  and 
on  the  mesa,  just  south  of  the  town,  is  Minnequa, 
the  site  of  the  Colorado  Fuel  and  Iron  Works,  one  of  the  largest  plants  of  this 
character  in  the  world.  There  are  also  many  great  smelters  for  the  reduction  of 
gold  and  silver  ores,  together  with  a  large  number  of  manufactories,  planing  mills 
flouring  mills,  machine  shops,  etc.  The  city  of  Pueblo  is  surrounded  by  great 
stretches  of  rich  agricultural  land,  which  in  places  here  and  there  is  under  a  high 
state  of  cultivation.  But  it  is  only  here  and  there  that  cultivation  shows  its  elevating 
work.  Tourists  wonder  at  this,  and  cannot  divine  why,  if  the  land  is  rich,  it  should 
lie  fallow  and  uncultivated.  The  answer  is  easy  to  find.  All  this  land  is  arid. 
Crops  will  not  grow  without  water,  and  the  rains  of  heaven  are  not  half  copious 
enough  to  promote  the  growth  of  vegetation.  Where  the  land  is  watered  by  irri- 
gation it  is  as  fertile  as  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  where  it  is  not  irrigated  it  is  nearly  as 
sterile  as  the  desert  of  Sahara.  This  condition  of  affairs  will  not  long  remain. 
Storage  reservoirs  to  conserve  the  winter  anil  spring  rainfall  and  snow  deposits  are 
in  course  of  construction,  also  a  series  of  great  canals  to  be  taken  from  the  Arkansas 
river  to  carry  the  water  on  to  the  waiting  land.  In  the  mean  time  this  uncultivated 
country,  which  appears  so  barren,  supports  tens  of  thousands  of  sheep  and  cattle. 
The  short,  dry,  crisp,  curled  buffalo-grass,  whii  h  looks  about  as  succulent  as  shav- 
ings, ai  tually  contains  great  nutritive  qualities,  and  if  cattle  or  sheep  <  an  get  enough 
of  it  they  grow  fat  and  command  the  highest  price  in  the  markets.  Pastoral  and 
agricultural  interests  contribute  to  Pueblo's  prosperity,  live  trunk  lines  of  railroad 
center  here,  and  manufactories  increase  the  business  of  the  town.  Many  people 
of  great  wealth  make  Pueblo  their  home  and  do  business  here-.  Handsome  man- 
sions, pretty  cottages,  large  business  blocks,  and  fine  stocks  of  all  kirnb  of  merchan- 
dise testify  to  the  good  taste  and  enterprise  of  Pueblo's  citizens.  It  is  admitted 
on  all  sides  that  this  must  of  necessity  become  the  leading  manufacturing  town 
between  the  Missouri  River  and  the  Pacific  coast,  and  the  manufacturers  in  the  East 


TO    THE   GOLDEN    GATE. 


31 


who  contemplate  extending  or  removing  their  works,  arc  now  carefully  studying 
the  resources  of  Pueblo.  Pueblo  is  well  provided  with  hotels,  one  of  them  repre- 
senting an  expense  of  $250,000  in  its  erection.  All  grades  of  excellence  can  be 
found  among  the  hostelries,  and  the  traveler  will  find  no  difficulty  in  securing 
accommodations  suited  to  his  tastes.  Through  Pueblo,  the  traveler  passes  to 
reach  Sante  Fe,  Espaiiola,  Durango,  and  Silverton  on  the  south,  Canon  City, 
Salida,  Leadville,  Glenwood  Springs,  Aspen,  Grand  Junction,  Salt  Lake  City,  and 
Ogden  on  west  en  route  to  San  Francisco;  and  Gunnison,  Montrose,  and  Ouray, 
via  the  narrow  gauge  line  over  Marshall  Pass. 

Parnassus  Springs.  A  pleasant  drive  of  twelve  miles,  southwest  of  Pueblo, 
takes  us  to  Parnassus  Springs,  among  the  foothills  of  the  Greenhorn  Mountains. 
These  waters — muriated  alkaline — have  been  tested  with  marked  benefit,  espe- 
cially in  cases  characterized  as  gastric  complaints. 

Carlile  Spring's  are  situated  twenty  miles  above  Pueblo,  on  the  Arkansas 
River.  These  purgative  alkaline  waters  are  as  yet  unimproved,  but  give  good  prom- 
ise of  becoming  popular  on  account  of  their  medicinal  qualities. 

Clark's  Magnetic  Mineral  Springs.  This  celebrated  spring  in  the 
city  of  Pueblo  has  recently  been  improved  by  the  erection  of  a  large  bath-house 
and  fine  hotel,  fitted  up  with  all  the  latest  improvements  and  conveniences  for 
bathing. 


UNITED   STATES   MINT,    DENVER. 


PUEBLO   TO   OGDEN 


o^^v^asT'R O M  Denver  to  Pueblo,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles, 
the  traveler  has  followed  the  Front  Range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
and  kept  his  course  mainly  to  the  south.  At  Pueblo,  however, 
he  turns  his  face  westward,  and  this  will  be  his  outlook,  in  the  main, 
until  he  finds  himself  standing  on  the  shore  of  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
watching  the  descent  of  the  sun  into  the  wilderness  of  waters. 
The  country  between  Pueblo  and  Florence  is  fine  agricultural  land,  being  the 
bottoms  of  the  Arkansas  River,  up  whose  course  the  railroad  follows  until  Salida 
is  reached,  ninety-seven  miles  from  Pueblo.  Back  from  the  river  rise  high  buttes 
of  sandstone  worn  into  fantastic  shapes  by  the  action  of  the  elements.  Banded  with 
a  great  variety  of  colors  and  dotted  here  and  there  by  groups  of  pines,  the  scene  is 
one  of  much  interest  and  adds  an  element  of  variety  to  the  journey,  which  is  exceed- 
ingly grateful  to  the  traveler.  The  river  bottoms  are  irrigated  by  means  of  ditches 
taken  from  the  river,  and  the  result  is  crops  of  marvelous  growth  and  yield.  One 
interesting  and  peculiar  feature  is  the  frequent  occurrence  of  the  ancient  Egyptian 
water-wheels  suspended  in  the  current  of  the  Arkansas.  This  method  of  securing 
water  for  irrigation  is  rarely  observed  in  Colorado.  This  valley  of  the  Arkansas  is 
also  a  good  fruit  country,  and  grapes  and  apples  grow  in  abundance  and  of  fine 
quality. 

Florence.  This  town  is  in  the  center  of  the  petroleum  fields  of  Colorado. 
Glancing  from  the  car  window  the  traveler  will  here  see  the  tall  derricks  of  the  well 
machinery  and  the  tanks  for  storing,  together  with  the  tank  cars  for  transporting 
the  oil,  and  several  large  refineries.  There  are  a  very  large  number  of  wells  already 
in  operation  and  more  are  being  sunk.  The  oil  is  used  for  lubrication,  fuel, 
and  illumination,  and  gives  the  best  of  satisfaction.  Florence  is  the  junction  point 
of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  and  the  Florence  &  Cripple  Creek  Railroads;  the 
latter  line  having  been  completed  and  opened  for  business  to  Colorado's  famous 
Gold  Camp — Cripple  Creek — on  July  4,  1894.  This  new  railroad  has  made  this 
bustling  little  city  one  of  the  foremost  in  the  state.  (Population,  5,000.  Distance 
from  Denver,  152  miles.     Elevation,  5,199  feet.) 

The  Florence  and  Cripple  Creek 
Railroad.  This  railroad,  40  miles  in  length, 
was  built  for  the  purpose  of  opening  up  to  com- 
merce the  vastly  rich  gold  fields  of  Cripple  Creek 
and  vicinity.  The  principal  points  on  the  line 
are  Arequa,  Anaconda,  Victor,  and  Cripple  Creek 
itself,  all  of  which  are  heavy  shippers  of  rich  gold 
ores.  The  scenery  on  this  line  from  beginning  to 
end  is  of  a  most  beautiful  character,  canons  and 
gorges,  mountain  peaks  and  passes,  valleys  and 
vales — combined  in  a  panorama  of  startling  loveliness. 

The  town  of   Cripple  Creek  has  advanced  with  the  prosperity  of   the  mining 

32 


CRIPPLE    CREEK. 

Great  Gold  Mining 

Town. 

Population,  15,000. 

Elevation,  9,400  feet. 

Distance  from  Denver,  103 
Miles. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  33 

district  of  which  it  is  the    center.      From  a  camp  of   a   few  w len  shanties  and 

cents,  a  few  years  ago,  it  has  risen  to  a  well-built,  well-defined  mining  town. 
Brick  buildings  are  being  erected  in  the  business  center  and  dwellings  of  a 
permanent  character  are  dotting  the  slopes  around  the  town.  There  is  a  stability 
about  it  which  is  most  encouraging.  The  hotel  accommodations  are  first-class, 
considering  the  age  of  the  town.  The  population  is  about  15,000.  There  is  an 
excellent  water  service,  the  supply  being  piped  from  the  mountains  above,  and  the 
town  is  peaceably  and  well  governed.  The  advent  of  the  railroads,  the  greal 
attention  being  paid  to  gold  mining,  and  the  immense  quantities  of  ore  that  are 
being  uncovered  in  the  mining  district  all  go  to  show  that  Cripple  Creek  is  but 
entering  upon  an  era  of  great  prosperity. 

The  Cripple  Creek  Gold  Mining1  District  is  situated  near 
the  western  base  of  Pike's  Peak,  at  an  elevation  of  9,400  feet.  It  consists  of  rolling 
hills,  sparsely  wooded,  and  small  valleys  and  gulches.  Lying  a  little  south  of  west 
from  Colorado  Springs  at  a  distance  of  about  twenty  miles  in  an  air  line,  seventy 
miles  from  Denver,  and  forty-four  miles  from  Pueblo,  down  to  1S91  it  was  to  all 
intents  and  purposes  exclusively  a  pastoral  district.  It  is  true  that  for  many  years 
past,  in  fact  ever  since  1S59,  prospectors  have,  from  time  to  time,  been  over  the 
ground  and  brought  back  samples  which  demonstrated  the  presence  of  gold.  How- 
ever, no  serious  efforts  were  made  toward  development,  though  some  exploration 
work  was  done,  as  for  instance  in  1874  when  a  tunnel  was  driven  in  Arequa  Creek, 
and  again  in  1879  in  Poverty  Gulch.  In  these,  as  in  other  instances,  prospectors 
were  unfortunate  and  just  missed  the  ore  which  is  now  being  profitably  mined. 

In  February,  1891,  some  Colorado  Springs  men  determined  upon  a  serious 
attempt  to  test  the  capabilities  of  the  district,  taking  up  several  claims  which 
promised  so  well  that,  during  the  following  spring  and  summer,  many  prospectors 
flocked  in,  and  by  the  close  of  the  year  some  2,000  people  were  there,  really  deter- 
mined to  prove  its  worth.  The  camp  is  now  well  under  way  and  during  1892  its 
progress  was  rapid.  Work  was  mainly  confined  to  the  location  and  establishment 
of  claims,  and  testing  their  value.  In  the  course  of  that  year  some  ten  or  a  dozen 
mines  became  regular  shippers  of  ore,  and  their  output  reached  a  total  of  some 
$600,000. 

Since  the  period  of  original  discovery  progress  has  been  remarkably  rapid. 
Numerous  new  claims  have  been  located  and  the  number  of  regular  shipping 
mines  has  increased  to  nearly  one  thousand,  while  many  others  not  actual  shippers 
have  pay  ore  in  sight,  and  the  total  output  has  increased  to  $18,291,229  for  the  year 
of  1902. 

Coal  Creek  Braiiell.     A  branch  line  of    the    Denver    &    Rio  Grande 
Railroad  runs  from  Florence  to  Coal  Creek,  a  distance  of  six  miles,  where  excellent 
and   extensive   coal  mines   are  in  operation.     This 
line  is  one  of  great  commercial  importance,  opening 
one  of  the  most  extensive  coal  fields  in  the  State. 

Coal  Creek  is  at  the  terminus  of  this  branch 
of  the  line.  It  is  well  supplied  with  stores  and 
shops  of  all  kinds  and  does  a  thriving  business. 
(Population,  1,800.  Distance  from  Denver,  155 
miles.     Elevation,  5,360  feet.) 

This  city  is  rightly  named,  for  it  stands  at  the 
entrance  to  the  greatest  canon  penetrated  by  any  railroad.  The  Grand  Canon  of 
the  Arkansas  is  acknowledged  by  a  universal  consensus  of  opinion  to  br  one  of 


CANON   CITY. 

Health  and  Pleasure 

Resort. 

Business  Center. 

Distance  from  Denver, 

160  Miles. 

^o^ulaiion,  5,500. 

Elevation,  5,343  feet. 


34 


OVER    THE   RANGE 


the  great  wonders  of  the  world.  The  Arkansas  River,  which  rises  in  Fremont 
Park,  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles  to  the  northwest  of  Canon  City,  here  breaks 
its  way  through  the  Front  Range  of  mountains  and  enters  upon  its  uneventful 
course  to  the  Mississippi.  The  town  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  Colorado,  and  is  essen- 
tially a  place  of  pleasant  homes.  It  is  the  county-seat  of  Fremont  County,  and  is 
the  seat  of  the  State  Penitentiary.     Its  warm  and  equable  climate  makes  it  a  favorite 

resort  for  invalids.  In  ad- 
dition to  its  pleasant  cli- 
mate it  possesses  valuable 
mineral  springs,  both  hot 
and  cold.  The  water  of  the 
cold  springs  is  almost  icy  in 
temperature,  and  strongly 
impregnated  with  soda. 
The  cold  springs  are  situ- 
ated just  above  the  peniten- 
tiary. The  scenery  round 
about  Canon  City  is  ex- 
ceedingly attractive.  The 
drive  of  about  twelve  miles 
to  the  brink  of  the  Royal 
(lorge  and  the  view  of  that 
wonderful  chasm  from  the 
Lop,  which  can  there  be  ob^ 
nined,  are  experiences  never 
to  be  forgotten.  The  town 
and  its  contiguous  country 
possess  the  finest  orchards 
in  the  State,  and  the  culti- 
vation of  fruit  is  the  leading 
industry.  The  city  is  well 
built,  has  handsome  busi- 
ness blocks,  and  comfort- 
able and  elegant  residences. 
The  Florence  and  Cripple  Creek  Railroad  has  a  terminal  here,  as  well  as  at  Florence, 
and  tourists  en  route  to  the  Cripple  Creek  district  will  find  the  change  of  trains 
at  this  point  fully  as  convenient  as  at  Florence. 

The  Hot  Spring's.  Having  left  Canon  City  and  traversed  a  mile  to  the 
westward,  the  traveler  will  observe  to  his  left  a  picturesque,  many-gabled  building, 
across  the  river,  a  rustic  foot-bridge  leading  thereto.  This  is  the  Royal  Gorge 
Hotel,  situated  at  the  Hot  Springs.  The  hotel  has  excellent  accommodations  for 
guests,  and  is  a  favorite  resort  for  health  and  pleasure  seekers.  The  springs  are 
recommended  by  physicians  as  excellent  in  cases  of  cutaneous  and  blood  diseases. 
Prof.  Loew's  analysis  of  the  waters  is  as  follows: 

Grains  in  a  Gallon  of  Water. 
Temperature  of  1040  Fah. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 18.2 

Sulphate  of  Soda    79.3 

Carbonate  of  Soda 73.2 

Carbonate  of  Lime 33.5 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia i.t.8 

Lithia Trace. 

217.0 


CANON   OF   THE   GRAND. 


THE   ROYAL   GORGE. 


ROYAL  GORGE. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
163  miles. 

Greatest  Height  of 
Walls,  2,627  feet. 

Length,  7  miles. 


36  OVER    THE  RANGE 

Baths  have  been  provided  at  the  hotel  and  are  supplied  with  all  the  modern 
conveniences. 

Just  beyond  Canon  City  the  railway  enters  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansas, 
the  narrowest  portion  of  which  is  known  as  the  Royal  Gorge.  When  first  examined 
it  seemed  impossible  that  a  railway  could  ever  be  constructed  through  this  stupen- 
dous canon  to  Leadville  and  the  west.     There  was  scarcely  room  for  the  river 

alone,  and  granite  ledges  blocked  the  path  with 
their  mighty  bulk.  In  time,  however,  these  obstruc- 
tions were  blasted  away,  a  roadbed  closely  following 
the  contour  of  the  cliffs  was  made,  and  to-day  the 
canon  is  a  well-used  thoroughfare.  But  its  grandeur 
still  remains.  After  entering  its  depths,  the  train 
moves  slowly  along  the  side  of  the  Arkansas,  and 
around  projecting  shoulders  of  dark-hued  granite, 
deeper  and  deeper  into  the  heart  of  the  range. 
The  crested  crags  grow  higher,  the  river  madly 
foams  along  its  rocky  bed,  and  anon  the  way  be- 
comes a  mere  fissure  through  the  heights.  Far  above  the  road  the  sky  forms  a 
deep  blue  arch  of  light;  but  in  the  Gorge  hang  dark  and  somber  shades  which  the 
sun's  rays  have  never  penetrated.  The  place  is  a  measureless  gulf  of  air,  with  solid 
walls  on  either  side.  Here  the  granite  cliffs  are  a  thousand  feet  high,  smooth  and 
unbroken  by  tree  or  shrub;  and  there  a  pinnacle  soars  skyward  for  thrice  that  dis- 
tance. No  flowers  grow,  and  the  birds  care  not  to  penetrate  the  solitudes.  The 
river,  somber  and  swift,  breaks  the  awful  stillness  with  its  roar.  Soon  the  cleft 
becomes  still  more  narrow,  the  treeless  cliffs  higher,  the  river  closer  confined,  and 
where  a  long  iron  bridge  hangs  suspended  from  the  smooth  walls,  the  grandest 
portion  of  the  canon  is  reached.  Man  becomes  dwarfed  and  dumb  in  the  sublime 
scene,  and  Nature  exhibits  the  power  she  possesses.  The  crags  menacingly  rear 
their  heads  above  the  daring  intruders,  and  the  place  is  like  the  entrance  to  some 
infernal  region.  Escaping  from  the  Gorge,  the  narrow  valley  of  the  upper  Arkan- 
sas is  traversed,  with  the  striking  serrated  peaks  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  close  at 
hand  on  the  west,  until  Salida  is  reached. 

Parktlale.  This  is  the  point  where  tourists  who  desire  only  to  see  the 
famous  Royal  Gorge  disembark  from  the  west-bound  train,  to  return  again  to 
Pueblo,  Colorado  Springs,  or  Denver.  (Population  nominal.  Distance  from  Den- 
ver, 172  miles.     Elevation   5,800  feet.) 

Beautiful  Mountain  View.  Emerging  from  the  canon,  a  most 
beautiful  mountain  view  is  obtained;  to  the  left  stretch  the  serrated  summits  of 
the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range,  while  to  the  front  and  right  are  the  towering  peaks 
of  the  Collegiate  Mountains. 

TVxa  s  Creek.  This  is  the  junction  point  of  the  West  Cliff  branch  with  the  main 
line.  (Population,  nominal.  Distance  from  Denver,  185  miles.  Elevation,  6,210  feet.) 
West  Cliff"  Branch.  Realizing  the  vast  importance  of  the  Wet  Mountain 
Valley  as  a  mining  and  agricultural  region,  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  in  1901 
constructed  a  branch  line  extending  from  Texas  Creek  station  to  West  Cliff,  Silver 
Cliff,  and  Rosita,  heretofore  reached  by  stage  lines.  This  branch  is  but  another 
addition  to  the  already  large  number  of  paying  and  interesting  branches.  The 
scenery  on  the  new  line  is  equal  to  that  on  the  main  line,  with  gorges  and  passes, 
mountains  and  valleys,  difficult  feats  of  engineering,  and  altogether  well  worthy 
a  side  trip  from  the  main  line. 


38 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


THE   ROYAL   GORGE. 


West  Cliff.  This  town  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  Wet  Mountain 
Valley,  surrounded  by  a  fine  grazing  and  agricultural  country.  The  view  is  a 
grand  one,  lofty  mountains  bounding  the  entire  circle  of  the  horizon.  A  mile  from 
the  station  is  Silver  Cliff,  which  after  the  discovery  of  the  Racine  Boy  mine,  was 
the  center  of  a  tremendous  rush  of  miners,  resulting  in  several  other  great  discov- 
eries, but  the  large  mines  were  few  in  number  and  the  prospectors  left  for  other 
fields.  The  good  mines  are  still  productive  and  add  their  quota  to  the  prosperity 
of  the  valley.  West  Cliff  is  the  shipping  point  for  Silver  Cliff  and  Rosita,  being  the 
railroad  station.  (Population,  1,000.  Distance  from  Denver,  210  miles.  Eleva- 
tion, 7,861  feeO 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


39 


Wellsville  Hot  Spring's  are  on  our  left  across  the  Arkansas  River,  six 
miles  before  Salida  is  reached.  Here  is  a  natural  warm  plunge  hath,  the  waters 
of  which  are  strongly  impregnated  with  medicinal  qualities.  The  Wellsville  Springs 
are  a  favorite  resort,  and  are  made  the  objective  point  for  many  pleasant  excursion 
parties. 

This  prosperous  town  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Arkansas  River,  and  is  the  converging 
point  of  the  four  great  divisions  of  the  Denver  & 
Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The  first  division  being 
the  line  to  the  east;  the  second  is  the  main  line 
to  the  west  via  Leadville,  Glenwood  Springs,  and 
Grand  Junction;  the  third  is  the  narrow  gauge 
line  to  Grand  Junction  over  Marshall  Pass  and 
via  Gunnison  and  Montrose,  and  the  fourth  is  the 
southern  extension  to  Alamosa,  Durango,  Silverton, 
and  Santa  Fe.  In  addition  to  its  importance  as  a 
railway  point,  Salida  is  admirably  situated  for  smelting  purposes.  One  large 
modern  smelting  plant  is  in  operation,  one  under  construction,  and  a  third  in  con- 
templation.    These  industries  will  largely  enhance  the  importance  of  this  growing 


SALIDA. 

Health  and  Pleasure 

Resort  and 

Business  Center. 

Population,  5,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
217  miles. 

Elevation,  7,050  feet. 
Eating  Station. 


THE   PORTALS 


city.  The  view  of  the  mountains  from  Salida  is  especially  grand.  The  Collegiate 
Range  rises  to  the  west  with  Yale,  Harvard,  and  Princeton  Peaks  in  plain  view 
crowned  with  perpetual  snow,  while  to  the  south  stands  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range, 
and  in  the  southwest  tower  Ouray  and  Shaveno.  The  beauty  of  its  situation,  the 
near  proximity  to  hot  medicinal  springs,  the  wonderful  salubrity  of  ;ts  climate,  make 
Salida  an  extremely  popular  health  and  pleasure  resort.  Tributary  to  the  town 
are  mines  of  copper,  silver,  gold,  iron,  and  coal;  great  quantities  of  charcoal  are 
burned  near  Salida,  and  the  agricultural  and  pastoral  interest  are  of  great  extent. 

The  trip  from  Salida  to  Grand  Junction  and  Ogden  abounds  in  interest  for 
the  tourist.  It  leads  one  through  a  most  varied  country,  and  presents  to  the  inspec- 
tion of    the  traveler  almost  every  variety  of  industry,   from  the  agriculture  and 


4°  OVER   THE  RANGE 

stock  raising  of  the  Arkansas,  Eagle,  and  Grand  River  valleys,  to  the  gold  and 
silver  mining  of  Leadville  and  Aspen,  and  it  may  be  said,  in  passing,  that  Leadville 
and  Aspen  are  two  of  the  greatest  mining  camps  in  the  world,  and  well  worthv 
of  a  visit.  The  scenery  after  Salida  is  passed  grows  in  interest  with  each  mile  of 
advance.  We  are  steaming  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Arkansas  River,  and  are  crossing 
the  western  border  of  the  Great  South  Park.  The  mountains  capped  with  snow 
shut  us  in  throughout  the  whole  circle  of  the  horizon.  The  Collegiate  Range, 
including  the  peaks  of  Yale,  Harvard,  and  Princeton  to  our  left,  and  beyond,  the 
great  volcano-made  cones  of  Ouray  and  Shaveno,  which  tower  above  Marshall 
Pass.  Away  off  to  the  right  are  the  Kenosha  Hills.  Agriculture  and  stock  raising 
are  the  main  industries  of  South  Park,  and  the  ranchmen  find  these  pursuits  of 
an  exceedingly  lucrative  character.  A  number  of  small  stations  are  passed  beyond 
Salida  as  follows:  Brown's  Canon,  Hecla  Junction,  Nathrop,  and  Midway. 

BrOWll's  CailOli.  After  passing  the  station  of  Brown's  Canon,  fine 
views  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  peaks  present  themselves  close  by,  and  then  the  rocks 
are  heaped  up  again  into  the  grand  defile  of  Brown's  Canon,  where  one  of  our 
illustrations  was  made. 

Buena  Vista.  Buena  Vista  is  the  county  seat  of  Chaffee  County.  The 
town  was  incorporated  in  the  month  of  December,  1879,  and,  for  its  age,  is  a  won- 
derfully thriving  place.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Arkansas  River,  thirty-six 
m;les  below  Leadville,  and  242  miles  from  Denver.  The  town  is  quite  an  impor- 
tant station,  and  is  surrounded  by  good  mines  of  gold  and  silver,  fine  pasture  lands 
for  stock  and  many  improved  ranches.  The  state  reformatory  is  situated  here. 
The  city  has  an  abundance  of  pure  water,  fine  shade  trees,  churches,  schools,  stores, 
etc.  (Population,  1,800.  Distance  from  Denver,  240  miles.  Elevation,  7,967 
fee,t.) 

Cottonwood  Spring's.  The  Cottonwood  Hot  Springs  have  long  been 
famous  in  Colorado  for  their  curative  properties.  They  were  the  resort  of  the 
Indians  before  the  whites  took  possession  of  the  country,  and  have  since  been 
greatly  improved  and  made  accessible  to  invalids  and  tourists.  The  springs  are 
situated  six  miles  from  Buena  Vista,  whence  a  stage  line  conveys  passengers  arriving 
on  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  to  the  springs.  For  cases  of  inflammatory 
rheumatism,  lead  poisoning,  and  diseases  of  the  blood,  these  waters  possess  remark- 
able curative  properties.  The  scenery  of  the  valley  in  which  the  springs  are  situated 
is  of  great  loveliness,  the  Collegiate  Range  of  mountains  forming  an  imposing 
background.  Fine  trout  fishing  can  be  found  in  ten  minutes'  walk  up  and  down 
Cottonwood  Creek,  and  the  neighboring  hills  abound  in  game.  There  are  good 
accommodations  here  for  tourists  and  invalids. 

Mount  Princeton  Hot  Springs  are  located  nine  miles  from  Buena 
Vista.  There  are  about  forty  of  these  springs,  with  a  flow  of  hot  water  aggregating 
1,000,000  gallons  daily.  These  waters  are  especially  beneficial  for  rheumatism, 
cutaneous  diseases,  paralysis,  etc.  The  temperature  is  1300  F.  The  climate  and 
scenery  are  superior,  and  good  hotel  accommodations  will  be  found. 

After  leaving  Buena  Vista  the  following  small  stations  are  passed:  Americus, 
Riverside,  and  Pine  Creek. 

Granite.  At  this  point  the  stage  line  to  Twin  Lakes  connects  with  the 
trains.  Placer  mining  by  huge  hydraulic  systems  are  in  full  operation  and  have 
been  successfully  worked  for  the  past  twenty  years.  (Population,  300.  Elevation, 
8,940  feet.     Distance  from  Denver,  257  miles.) 

These  most  beautiful  mountain  tarns  are  best  reached  by  a  seven  miles  stage  ride 


TWIN    LAKES. 

Pleasure  Resort. 
Elevation,  9,367  feet. 


42  OVER    THE  RANGE 

from  Granite  Station.  The  drive  is  in  itself  a  delightful  experience,  and  the  lakes 
prove  a  most  charming  culmination.  You  find  yourself  in  a  little  valley  about 
seven  miles  in  area.  Around  you  on  all  sides,  looming  up  grand  and  precipitous,  are 
snow-capped  mountain  peaks,  each  of  them  towering  fully  a  mile  high,  from  where 
you  stand,  completely  walling  you  in  from  the  outer  world.  These  mountains  are 
Mount  Elbert,  La  Plata,  and  Twin  Peaks,  each 
of  them  higher  than  the  famous  Pike's  Peak, 
Lake  Mountain,  Mount  Sheridan,  and  Park  Range. 
They  are  all  more  or  less  covered,  up  to  the  timber 
line,  with  fir  and  spruce  trees,  the  fragrance  of 
which  perfumes  the  atmosphere,  and,  owing  to  the 
rarified  air,  the  tops  of  the  peaks,  on  which  rest 
the  eternal  snows,  seem  so  near  that  you  think  you 
could  almost  throw  a  stone  to  their  summits,  though 
in  fact  the  length  of  that  very  uphill  stonethrow  would  be  considerably  more  than  a 
mile.  For  about  three-fourths  of  its  area  the  valley  is  occupied  by  the  lakes,  and 
to  an  ordinary  observer  it  is  plain  that  these  lakes  were  formerly  one  and  occupied 
the  whole  valley  up  to  the  very  foot  of  the  mountains.  At  present,  however,  they 
are  twins — Siamese  twins  for  they  are  connected  by  a  mountain  stream,  which, 
as  well  as  the  lakes  themselves,  abound  in  the  most  delicious  mountain  trout  that 
ever  nibbled  at  a  hook  or  smoked  on  a  platter. 

Now  let  us  row  out  into  the  middle  of  the  upper  lake.  It  seems  as  if  you  were 
in  the  center  of  a  mighty  amphitheater,  the  arena  of  which  is  water,  the  sloping 
sides  fir-clad  mountains,  and  the  roof  a  great  bowl  inverted,  painted  a  gorgeous 
blue,  and  lightly  resting  on  the  snow-capped  mountains.  The  sizzling  dweller  of 
cities  may  ask  what  is  the  thermometer  here?  I  do  not  know.  I  never  saw  one 
here.  These  people  have  no  more  use  for  a  thermometer  than  a  toad  has  for  a 
pocketbook.  Old  Sol  rises  bright  and  fierce-looking  every  morning  in  an  Italian 
sky,  but  his  rays  are  so  tempered  by  the  breezes  from  the  mountains  that  by  the 
time  they  reach  the  valley  they  are  just  pleasantly  warm  and  exhilarating.  But 
there  is  one  thing  his  rays  will  do,  and  city  folk  would  better  beware  of  them  if  they 
do  not  want  to  peel  off  their  outer  cuticle,  they  will  sunburn  as  effectually  as  if 
conveyed  through  the  medium  of  a  burning  glass;  this  is  owing  to  the  rarity  of  the 
atmosphere.  Flannels  can  and  ought  to  be  worn  here  every  day,  and  a  person 
sitting  reading  or  writing  indoors  for  an  hour  or  so,  in  a  room  where  there  is  no  fire, 
and  while  the  sun  is  shining  brightly  outside,  will  find  the  cold  stealing  up  his 
nether  limbs. 

Returning  to  Granite  and  resuming  the  journey,  the  following  small  stations  are 
passed:  Twin  Lakes,  Hayden,  Gordon,  and  Malta.  At  Malta  the  main  line  turns 
to  the  left,  while  a  branch  line  continues  on  to  Leadville.  Suburban  trains  are 
operated  between  Malta  and  Leadville,  and  we  will  take  advantage  of  this  service 
and  go  to  the  "Great  Carbonate  Camp." 

This  wonderful  Cloud  City  first  became  known  to  fame  in  1859  as  California 
Gulch,  one  of  the  richest  placer  camps  in  Colorado.  From  1859  to  1S64, 
$5,ooOjCoo  in  gold-dust  were  washed  from  the  ground  of  this  gulch.  The  camp 
was  afterwards  nearly  abandoned,  and  it  was  not  until  1S76  that  the  carbonate 
beds  of  silver  were  discovered.  Immediately  after  this  discovery  a  great  rush  en- 
sued to  the  carbonate  camp,  which  was  named  Leadville,  and  the  population 
rose  from  a  nominal  number  to  30,000.  Leadville  is  the  county-seat  of  Lake 
County.     It  is  the  fourth  city  in  size  in  Colorado,  and  the  greatest  and  most 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  43 

unique  carbonate  mining  camp  in   the  world.      The  visitor  to  Leadville   is   irre- 
sistibly reminded    of    the    words    of    Joaquin    Miller:    "Colorado,   rare   Colorado! 

Yonder  she  rests;  her  head  of  gold  pillowed  on   the 


LEADVILLE. 

The  "  Great  Carbonate 
Camp." 

Population,  20,000. 

Elevation,  10,200  feet. 

Distance     from     Denver, 
277  miles. 


Rocky  Mountains,  her  feet  in  the  brown  grass;  the 
boundless  plains  for  a  playground;  she  is  sel  on  a 
hill  before  the  world,  and  the  air  is  very  clear,  so 
that  all  may  set'  her  well."  The  city  is  lighted  by 
gas  and  electricity;  has  telephonic  communication 
with  surrounding  points;  has  the  usual  conven- 
iences and  luxuries  of  cities  of  corresponding  size, 
and  in  all  respects  ranks  as  one  of  the  greatesl  cities 
of  this  great  State.  Leadville  is  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting cities  in  the  world  to  the  tourist.  It  abounds  in  scenes  of  a  novel  and  char- 
acteristic nature,  and  presents  views  of  life  entirely  foreign  to  the  conventional.  Min- 
ing methods  are  here  fully  illustrated  in  every  form,  from  lode  mining  to  hydraulic 
and  sluicing  work.  Leadville  has  a  handsome  theater,  the  Tabor  Opera  House, 
having  a  seating  capacity  of  1,000.  The  scenery  around  Leadville  is  magnificent. 
h  is  walled  in  on  all  sides  by  towering  mountains  whose  summits  are  crowned  with 
eternal  snow.  Occupying  so  high  an  altitude,  the  effect  is  remarkable,  and  tourists 
can  find  no  more  striking  nor  interesting  scenes  than  those  presented  by  Leadville 
and  its  weird  and  wonderful  surroundings.  Leadville  is  well  supplied  with  good 
hotels.  Livery  accommodations  are  first-class,  and  the  boulevard  affords  one  of  the 
finest  drives  in  the  State.  Situated  on  the  front  of  Mount  Massive,  at  the  mouth  of 
Colorado  Gulch,  and  distant  five  miles  from  Leadville,  are  the  popular  Soda  Springs 
and  Evergreen  Lakes.  The  boulevard,  a  carefully  constructed  drive,  one  hundred 
feet  in  width,  and  as  smooth  as  a  race  track,  gives  access  to  the  springs  and  lakes,  a 
stage  connecting  with  Leadville  twice  a  day.  The  springs  are  strongly  impregnated 
with  soda,  and  are  of  a  highly  medicinal  character.  There  is  excellent  trout  fishing 
within  a  few  minutes'  walk  of  the  springs,  pleasant  drives  and  rides  are  numerous, 
■\nd  placer  as  well  as  lode  mining  are  in  progress  in  near  proximity,  easily  accessible 
to  the  inspection  of  the  tourist.  Near  the  Evergreen  Lakes  is  located  an  extensive 
United  States  Fish  Hatchery,  under  the  direction  of  the  government,  and  from  it 
millions  of  trout  fry  are  yearly  planted  in  all  the  streams  of  the  Slate  of  Colorado. 
As  a  business  point,  Leadville  is  recognized  as  among  the  first  in  the  Slate;  with  its 
large  population,  great  smelting  works,  and  vast  mining  industry,  it  cannot  help 
commanding  the  attention  of  business  men  and  investors. 

Chrysolite  Extension.  This  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  System 
extends  from  Leadville  to  all  the  principal  mines  of  the  famous  Leadvil'e  mining 
district.  Xo  passenger  trains  are  operated  thereon,  but  the  net-work  of  trai  ks 
zigzagging  up  the  mountain  sides,  with  marvelous  switchbacks,  sharp  <  urves,  and 
heavy  grades  is  extremely  interesting  from  an  engineering  standpoint. 

Between  Leadville  and  Tennessee  Pass  are  the  following  unimportant  stations: 
Leadville  Junction,  Keeldar,  and  Crane's  Park. 

Tennessee  PaSS.  Rising  along  a  tortuous  path  cut  at  a  heavy  grade, 
as  usual,  into  the  side  hills,  we  mount  slowly  into  Tennessee  Pass,  which  feeds  the 
head  of  Eagle  River  on  the  west  side,  and  one  source  of  the  Arkansas  on  the  east 
side.  It  is  a  comparatively  low  and  easy  pass,  covered  everywhere  with  dense 
timber,  and  a  wagon  road  has  long  been  followed  through  it.  Reaching  an  eleva- 
*ion  of  quite  10,240  feet,  the  train  darts  into  a  tunnel  half  a  mile  long,  and  on 
emerging  at  the  western  end,  we  are  on  the  Pacific  slope.      There  is  nothing  to  be 


44  OVER   THE  RANGE 

seen  except  an  occasional  pile  of  tics,  or  a  charcoal  oven,  save  that  now  and  then  a 
gap  in  the  hills  shows  the  gray,  rough  summits  of  Galena,  Homestake,  and  the 
other  heights  that  guard  the  Holy  Cross.  At  each  end  of  the  Pass  is  a  little  open 
glade  or  "park,"  where  settlers  have  placed  their  cabins  and  fenced  off  a  few  acres 
of  level  ground  whereon  to  cut  hay,  for  nothing  else  will  grow  at  this  great  elevation. 
We  can  do  no  better  service  to  tin-  tourist  than  to  quote  Ernest  Ingersoll's 
description  of  this  famous  mountain  given  in  "The  Crest  of  the  Continent."  He 
says:  "One  of  the  side  valleys,  coming  down  to  the  track  at  right  angles  from  the 
southwestward — I  think  it  is  Homestake  Gulch — 
leads  the  eye  for  a  momentary  glimpse  up  through 
a  glorious  Alpine  avenue  to  where  the  cathedral 
crest  of  a  noble  peak  pierces  the  sky.  It  is  a  sum- 
mit that  would  attract  the  eye  any  a  here — its  feet 
hidden  in  verdurous  hills,  guarded  by  mighty  crags, 
half-buried  in  seething  clouds,  its  helmet  vertical, 
frowning,  plumed  with  gleaming  snow — 


MOUNT  OF 

THE 

HOLY    CROSS. 


Elevation,  14,176  feet. 


'Ay,  every  inch  a 


"It  is  the  Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross,  bearing  the  sacred  symbol  in  such  heroic 
characters  as  dwarf  all  human  graving,  and  set  on  the  pinnacle  of  the  world  as 
though  in  sign  of  possession  forever.  The  Jesuits  went  hand  in  hand  with  the 
( 'hevalier  Dubois,  proclaiming  Christian  Gospel  in  the  northern  forests;  the  Puritan 
brought  his  Testament  to  New  England;  the  Spanish  banners  of  victory  on  the 
Golden  shores  of  the  Pacific  were  upheld  by  the  fiery  zeal  of  the  friars  of  San  Fran- 
cisco; the  frozen  Alaskan  cliffs  resounded  to  the  chanting  of  the  monks  of  St.  Peter 
and  St.  Paul.  On  every  side  the  virgin  continent  was  taken  in  the  name  of  Christ, 
and  with  all  the  Sclat  of  religious  conquest.  Yet  from  ages  unnumbered,  before 
any  of  them,  centuries  oblivious  in  the  mystery  of  past  time,  the  Cross  had  been 
planted  here.  As  a  prophecy  during  unmeasured  generations,  as  a  sign  of  glorious 
fulfillment  during  nineteen  centuries,  from  always  and  to  eternity,  a  reminder  of 
our  fealty  to  heaven,  this  divine  seal  has  been  set  upon  our  proudest  eminence. 
What  matters  it  whether  we  write  'God'  in  the  constitution  of  the  United  Slates, 
when  here  in  the  sight  of  all  men  is  inscribed  this  marvelous  testimony  to  His 
sovereignty!  Shining  grandly  out  of  the-  pure  ether,  and  above  all  turbulence  of 
earthly  clouds,  it  says:  Humble  thyself,  ()  man!  Measure  thy  fiery  works  at  their 
true  insignificance.  Uncover  thy  head  and  acknowledge  thy  weakness.  Forget 
not,  that  as  high  above  thy  gilded  spires  gleams  tin-  splendor  of  this  ever-living 
Cross,  so  are  My  thoughts  above  thy  thoughts,  and  My  ways  above  thy  ways." 

Crime's  Park  is  a  beautiful  park  in  the  mountains  at  the  western  foot  of 
Tennessee  Pass.  Here  are  to  be  seen  the  kilns  of  charcoal  burners,  and  a  wonderful 
valley  and  mountain  view. 

Red  Cliff  CailOn.  Just  beyond  Crane'.-  P. irk  the  railroad  enters  Red 
Cliff  Canon,  a  comparatively  short  but  very  interesting  gorge  in  the  mountains. 

Red  Cliff.  This  picturesque  little  town  is  the  county-seat  of  Eagle 
County,  and  the  entrepot  of  a  large  mining  district.  The  mines  of  the  P.attle 
Mountain  and  other  districts  contribute  greatly  to  the  business  of  the  place.  Lead- 
ville,  with  its  smelters,  is  only  25  miles  distant,  and  this  fact  is  also  an  element  of 
success  among  the  many  which  give  promise  of  future  prosperity  to  the  town. 
The  scenery  around  Red  Cliff  is  of  the  grandest  and  most  beautiful  description. 
To  reach  the  town  the  traveler  makes  the  ascent  and  descent  of  Tennessee  Pass, 


46 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


EAGLE    RIVER 
CANON. 


Height  of  Walls. 
2,000  feet. 


and  obtains  the  bust  distant  view  that  can  be  had  cf  the  famous  Mount  of  the  Holy 
Cross.  Just  bevond  Red  Cliff  are  the  wonders  of  Eagle  River  Canon.  (Popu- 
lation, 1,000.     Distance  from  Denver,  293  miles.     Elevation,  8,608  feet.) 

Beyond  Red  Cliff  the  Eagle  River  Canon  opens 
to  the  view  at  first  a  comparatively  wide  expanse, 
later  more  narrow,  walled  in  on  each  side  by  cliffs 
of  vari-colored  rocks,  whose  lofty  and  apparently 
insurmountable  summits  bear  the  dark  banners  of 
the  pine.  Admiration  and  awe  at  this  stupendous 
work  of  Nature  take  possession  of  the  mind,  when 
suddenly  these  emotions  are  overshadowed  by 
wonder  and  almost  incredulous  surprise  at  the  daring 
of  man,  for  there  above  us  on  the  right,  perched  like  the  nest  of  heaven-scaling 
eagles,  rest  the  habitations  of  men!  There  are  the  shaft  houses  and  abiding  places 
of  adventurous  miners,  who,  having  climbed  these  cliffs,  pick  in  hand,  have  here 
discovered  rich  veins  of  the  precious  metal,  which,  being  blasted  from  its  matrix, 
is  conveyed  to  the  railroad  track  2,000  feet  below,  by  a  most  ingenious  system 
of  tramways  and  endless  steel  ropes.  There  is  something  very  impressive  in  the 
sight  of  these  frail  cliff-perched  dwellings;  and  the  shaft-penetrated,  tunnel-pierced 
peaks  suggest  irresistibly  the  fabled  cavernous  labyrinths  of  "Kor. "  Nowhere  can 
the  traveler  find  a  more  interesting  and  instructive  illustration  of  mining  methods 
than  is  here  presented  by  the  shaft-scarred  sides  of  Battle  Mountain  and  the  pinna- 
cle-perched eyries  of  Eagle  River  Canon. 

Milltlll'll.  Having  passed  through  the  canon,  the  train  brings  up  at  the 
divisional  and  eating  station  at  Minturn.  At  this  point  is  located  extensive  round 
houses  and  repair  shops  of  the  railway.  (Population,  500.  Elevation,  7,825  feet. 
Distance  from  Denver,  302  miles.) 

The  Valley  Of  the  Eagle.  Leaving  Minturn,  one  enters  the 
Valley  of  Eagle  River.  Quieter  scenes  of  pastoral  and  agricultural  achievements 
follow.  Here  are  comfortable  ranch  houses  surrounded  by  fertile  fields;  there  are 
herds  of  cattle  feeding  contentedly  in  natural  pastures;  while  on  all  sides  are  seen 
evidences  of  peace,  prosperity,  and  plenty.  The  Eagle  River,  a  beautiful  stream, 
whose  pellucid  waters  do  not  conceal  the  bright  colored  gravel  of  its  bed,  meanders 
through  the  valley,  adding  to  the  beauty  of  the  scene,  and  carrying  with  it  the  prac- 
tical benefits  of  irrigation,  without  which  the  soil  would  produce  nothing  but  vege- 
tation suitable  for  grazing  purposes.  The  clear,  cold  water  swarms  with  trout, 
augmented  yearly  by  additions  from  the  hatchery  at  Leadville,  and  here  the 
disciples  of  old  Izaak  Walton  cannot  fail  to  find  am- 
ple room  and  verge  for  plying  their  gentle  craft. 

In  our  journey  through  the  valley  we  pass  the  fol- 
lowing stations:  Avon,  Allenton,  Wolcott,  Sherwood, 
Eagle,  Gypsum,  Dotsero,  Shoshone,  and  Sulphur 
Springs. 

Leaving  the  railroad  at  Wolcott  station,  the 
tourist  can  go  by  stage  or  private  conveyance  to 
Steamboat  Springs,  distant  eighty  miles,  and  reached 
by  a  most  interesting  and  picturesque  route.  The 
road  follows  up  the  divide  between  the  Eagle  and  Grand  rivers  through  a  fine 
grazing  country,  dotted  here  and  there  with  beautiful  little  lakes.  The  Kokomo 
and   Shcephorn   ranges   rise  to  the   east,   while   the    Mount    of    the  Ticly  Cross 


STEAMBOAT 
SPRINGS. 

Wonderful  Hot  Springs 
of  Routt  County. 

Population,  500. 

Elevation,   6,500. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  47 

towers  to  the  south.  From  the  summit  of  the  divide  a  fine  view  of  the 
Flat  Top  Mountains  can  be  obtained.  Descending,  the  traveler  enters  Egeria 
Park,  famous  for  its  lovely  scenery,  a  noted  feature  of  which  is  the  Topanas,  or 
"Sleeping  Lion."  Finger  Rock,  265  feet  high  from  base  to  top,  is  also  a  remark- 
able landmark.  The  first  stream  crossed  is  the  Roaiing  Forkof  the  Yampa  River, 
along  which  is  to  be  found  the  finest  trout-fishing  in  Colorado.  Elk,  deer,  bear,  and 
mountain-sheep  abound  here.  Progressing,  "Court-Housr  Rocks"  come  into  view 
and  beyond  is  the  "Devil's  Grave."  This  curious  uplift  in  the  form  of  a  grave,  with 
a  great  headstone  rising  from  one  extremity,  is  an  object  of  great  interest.  Pa 
through  Yellow  Jacket  Pass,  the  Harrison  Bottoms  lint-  grazing  lands  arc  entered 
and  soon  the  famous  "Steamboat  Springs"  are  reached.  The  springs  send  off 
clouds  of  steam  and  its  escape  makes  a  peculiar  puffing  noise,  wheni  e  the  name. 
There  are  sixty  of  these  springs,  embracing  those  characterized  by  sulphur,  mag 
nesia,  iron,  and  soda.  The  springs  vary  from  156  degrees  of  heat  to  cold.  The 
scenery  around  the  Springs  is  exceedingly  attractive.  The  Storm  Mountains, 
around  whose  summits  storm  clouds  always  gather,  Crystal  Park,  Soda  Park, 
Sheddegger's  Park,  and  Fish  Creek  Falls  are  all  objects  of  interest,  and  within  a 
radius  of  ten  miles.  The  Fish  Creek  Falls  are  three  miles  east  of  Steamboat 
Springs,  they  are  150  feet  in  height,  and  have  a  width  of  eighty  feet.  Those  in 
search  of  health,  the  beautiful  in  nature,  or  who  enjoy  the  recreation  of  the  sports- 
man or  fisherman  cannot  do  better  than  make  a  visit  to  Steamboat  Springs. 

The  town  of  Steamboat  Springs  is  a  thriving  village  with  a  wonderful  future. 
It  has  free  public  library,  public  schools,  churches,  fine  water  supply,  an  unusuallv 
large  number  of  mercantile  establishments,  banks,  planing  mill  and  flouring  mills. 
Good  hotel  accommodations  for  sportsmen  and  health  seekers. 

Returning  to  the  railway  after  our  pilgrimage 
to  Steamboat  Springs,  we  again  resume  the  journey 
by  rail  through  the  Canon  of  the  Grand. 

Gradually  the  valley  narrows,  high  bluffs  hem 
us  in  on  the  left,  the  river  is  close  to  the  track  on 
the  right,  and  its  fertile  banks  suddenly  change  into 
a  tumbled,  twisted,  black,  and  blasted  expanse  of 
scoria,  the  outpouring  of  some  ancient  volcano  of 
tremendous  activity.  The  few  trees  on  the  hither  side 
of  the  stream  arc  also  black;  an  inheritance  of  lire; 
the  waters  under  the  black  banks,  and  reflecting  the 
blackened  trees,  take  on  a  swarthy  hue — a  stygian  picture!  Just  beyond,  a  distant 
glimpse  of  fertile  country,  and  the  clear  waters  of  the  Eagle  are  lost  in  the  muddy 
current  of  the  Grand,  and  a  canon  greater  in  extent  and  more  varied  in  character 
than  that  of  the  Arkansas  opens  before  us.  As  the  train  speeds  downward,  the 
mountains  on  the  horizon  behind  us  seem  to  rise  up  towards  the  zenith  as 
though  the  miracle  of  creation  was  being  repeated  before  our  eyes.  Soon,  how- 
ever, the  distant  mountains  are  shut  out  and  only  the  sky  above,  the  river  and  track 
beneath  and  the  cliffs  around  arc  visible;  and  here  begins  a  panorama,  kaleidoscopic 
in  its  ever  changing  forms  and  colors,  the  wonder  of  the  one  who  sees,  the  despair 
of  the  one  who  wished  to  tell  others  what  he  saw. 

In  places  the  effect  is  that  of  giant  Egyptian  art  and  architecture.  Vast  bastions 
of  granite,  strata  on  strata,  rise  to  a  stupendous  height,  braced  against  rock  masses 
behind  them,  infinitely  vaster.  Suggestions  of  the  Sphinx  and  of  the  Pyramids  can 
be  caught  in  the  severe  and  gigantic  rock-piled  structures  on  every  hand.     These 


CANON 

OF  THE 

GRAND   RIVER. 

A  Marvelous  Gorge. 

One    of  the    World's 
Wonders. 


48 


OVER    THE  RANGE. 


are  not  made  up  of  boulders,  nor  are  they  solid  monoliths,  like  those  in  the  Royal 
Gorge.  On  the  contrary,  they  are  columns,  bastions,  buttresses,  walls,  pyramids, 
towers,  turrets,  even  statues,  of  stratified  stone,  with  sharp  cleavage,  not  in  the 
least  weather-worn,  presenting  the  appearance  of  Brobdingnagian  masonry — hence 

I  use  the  phrase  "  rock-piled 
structures"  advisedly  and  as 
best  descriptive  of  what 
there  exists. 

But  the  kaleidoscope  is 
shaken  and  the  rock  pieces 
are  rearranged.  The  effect 
is  startling.  We  have  left 
Egypt,  with  her  shades  of 
gray  and  her  frowning, 
massive,  and  gigantic  forms. 
We  are  in  a  region  of  glow- 
ing colors,  where  the  ver- 
milion, the  maroon,  the 
green,  and  the  yellow 
abound  and  mingle  and 
contrast.  "What  strange 
country  was  the  prototype 
of  this?  Ah!  yonder  is 
something  characteristic — a 
terraced  pyramid  banded 
with  brilliant  and  varied 
colors — the  tcocoli  of  the 
Aztecs. 

Whirling  around  a  head- 
land of  glowing  red  rock, 
which  it  seems  ought  to  be 
called  "Flamingo  Point," 
wc  are  in  a  region  of  ruddy 
color  and  of  graceful  forms. 
Minarets,  from  whose  sum- 
mits the  muezzin's  call 
might  readily  be  imagined 
falling  upon  the  cars  of  the 
dwellers  in  this  "Orient  in 
the  West,"  spires  more 
graceful  than  that  of  Bruges, 
more  lofty  than  that  of 
Trinity,  towers  more  mar- 
velous  than  Pisa's  leaning 
wonder,  columns  more  curi- 
ous than  that  of  Yendome, 
splintered  and  airy  pinna- 
cles, infinite  in  variety,  in- 
numerable! inimitable!  in- 
describable! 


EXPLORING  T     2  WALLS. 


Glenwood   Springs, 

Health  and  Pleasure 
Resort. 

Wonderful  Hot 
Springs. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
360  miles. 

Elevation,  5,758  feet. 

Population,  3,000. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN    GATE.  49 

In  a  moment  darkness  and  the  increased  rumble  of  wheels;  then  light  and 
another  marvelous  view.  We  have  passed  tunnel  No.  1.  the  portcullis;  darkness 
again  for  a  moment,  then  the  blue  sky  above  us.  Wc  have  entered  through  the 
postern  gate;  darkness  for  the  third  time  absolute,  unmitigated  blackness  of  dark- 
ness; this  must  be  "the  deepest  dungeon  'neath  the  castle  moat."  Bui  soon  again 
we  see  the  blessed  light,  and  there  before  us  lies  Glenwood  Springs! — Color 
Greatest  Resort. 

Glenwood  Springs  is  the  pleasure  and 
health  resort  of  Colorado,  as  well  as  a  flourishing 
and  growing  town.  It  is  the  county-seal  of  Gar- 
field County.  The  picturesque  scenery  of  the 
Grand  River,  from  its  source  midst  the  peaks  and 
crags  of  the  Rockies,  to  its  debouch  into  the  mag- 
nificent waters  of  the  broad  Colorado,  has  been  the 
theme  of  able  writers  in  prose  and  poetry,  but  at  no 
spot  in  its  rapid  march  to  the  sea,  do  the  waters  of 
the  Grand  glisten  and  ripple  upon  the  shores  of  a 
lovelier  valley  than  at  its  confluence  with  the  Roar- 
ing Fork,  where  are  situated  the  springs  and  city  of  Glenwood.  Here  the  sentinel 
ranges,  which  have  guarded  the  stormy  passage  of  the  turbulent  stream  through 
mountain  pass  and  precipitous  canon,  seem  to  have  deployed  their  ranks,  that  they 
might  surround  and  embrace  a  valley  so  lovely  in  its  landscape  and  set  in  a  frame 
of  such  scenic  grandeur.  The  springs  themselves  are  phenomenal,  innumerable 
fountains  bubbling  up  over  an  area  covering  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  varying  in 
volume  from  twenty  to  one  thousand  cubic  inches  per  second.  The  principal  springs 
on  the  north  side  of  the  Grand  River  discharge  an  immense  body  of  water,  heated 
in  nature's  furnace  to  1400  Fahrenheit,  which  flows  in  a  broad  stream  to  its  outlet 
through  an  aqueduct  recently  constructed,  forming  a  beautiful  island,  upon  which 
is  erected  a  commodious  and  well-appointed  bathing-house,  provided  with  every 
convenience  for  sitz,  plunge,  and  vapor  bathing.  The  waters  have  been  found  of 
great  benefit  to  invalids,  and  as  a  result  the  springs  are  largely  patronized.  Aside 
from  the  beautiful  valley  selected  for  its  site,  and  the  attractions  presented  by  its 
wonderful  springs,  Glenwood  City  possesses  many  advantages  and  material 
resources  which  arc  destined  to  make  it  one  of  the  most  important  points  on  the 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The  town  has  electric  lights,  waterworks,  and 
all  of  the  modern  improvements.  Glenwood  is  well  supplied  with  hotels.  The  new 
Hotel  Colorado,  which  cost  8350,000,  is  probably  one  of  the  finest  resort  hotels  in 
the  United  States.  It  is  built  of  Roman  tiles  and  Colorado  peach-blow  stone,  and 
contains  two  hundred  guest  rooms  and  forty  private  baths,  is  built  in  Italian  style, 
and  located  under  the  shadow  of  the  mountains,  with  the  banks  of  the  famous 
Pool  immediately  in  front  of  it.  It  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  parks  and  drives, 
and  withal,  is  a  most  delightful  place  to  spend  a  season.  There  are  other  hotels, 
though  less  pretentious,  the  Hotel  (lien wood,  the  Kendrick,  the  Grand  being 
among  the  number. 

Accommodations  for  Bathing.  The  bath-house  ere.  ted  at  the  won- 
derful hot  springs  here  is  of  the  most  elegant  design.  It  is  built  of  red  sandstone, 
and  the  walls  of  all  rooms  are  of  red  or  cream  colored  pressed  brick,  wainscoted 
with  Texas  pine  and  colored  enamels.  There  art-  forty  four  large  bath-rooms,  in 
two  departments,  for  the  respecth  e  sexes.  Eai  11  bath-room  has  two  compartments. 
One  is  lined  with  enamel  and  set  with  a  porcelain  tub,  having  bronze  appliances  for 


$0  OVER    THE   RANGE 

readily  supplying  hot,  warm  or  cold  mineral  water,  and  hot,  warm  or  cold  fresh 
water,  also  showers  of  warm  or  cold  water.  Any  desired  temperature,  from  450  up 
to  1200  Fahrenheit,  can  be  supplied.  The  other  compartment  is  furnished  as  a 
dressing  room,  and  provided  with  a  settee  for  reclining  after  the  bath.  These 
compartments  have  high  ceilings,  and  are  well  lighted  from  elevated  windows  by 
day,  and  by  incandescent  electric  lamps  at  night.  Light  refreshments  are  served  in 
each  room  by  attendants  summoned  by  electric  bells.  Massage  treatment  is 
administered  in  a  room  for  that  purpose.  Besides  the  bath-rooms,  the  building 
contains  handsome  sitting  and  smoking  rooms  with  open  fires,  physician's  room, 
billiard-room,  coffee  kitchen,  linen-rooms,  hairdressing-rooms,  laundry,  etc.  All 
rooms  are  kept  supplied  with  fresh  air  at  an  equable  temperature  throughout  the 
year.  Every  accessory  for  the  luxurious  and  health-giving  bath  is  provided  in  the 
building.  The  baths  arc  supplied  from  the  main  or  Yampa  spring,  which  yields  a 
constant  flow  of  2,500,000  gallons  per  day  of  highly  mineralized  hot  water,  at  a 
temperature  of  124.20  Fahrenheit.  This  water  is  a  remarkable  remedial  agent, 
aiding  or  effecting  cures  of  scrofula,  rheumatism,  gout,  lead  poisoning,  diabetes, 
Bright"s  disease,  and  all  skin  and  blood  diseases.  The  new  bath-house  stands  on 
the  margin  of  the  Mammoth  Swimming  Pool. 

Tlie  Bathing'  Pool.  This  is  remarkable  for  its  size  and  the  completeness 
of  its  conveniences.  It  is  six  hundred  feet  in  length,  by  one  hundred  and  ten  feet  in 
width  at  the  widest  part.  Its  depth  gradually  increases  from  three  and  one-half  feet 
at  one  end  to  six  feet  at  the  other.  The  walls  are  of  red  sandstone,  and  the  bottom 
is  paved  with  hard  pressed  brick.  Its  surface  area  is  43,000  square  feet,  or  one 
acre,  and  the  capacity  1,500,000  gallons.  It  is  constantly  supplied  with  mineral 
water  from  the  main  or  Yampa  Spring,  and  kept  at  a  temperature  of  about  05° 
Fahrenheit.  There  are  one  hundred  and  thirteen  dressing-rooms,  in  separate 
departments  for  the  sexes.  These  are  warmed  in  winter,  and  a  hooded  way  leads 
into  the  water.  At  night  the  pool  is  brilliantly  lighted  by  arc  electric  lights. 
Bathing  suits  are  supplied  at  a  moderate  charge.  Thousands  who  have  tried 
bathing  in  the  pool  pronounce  it  the  most  delightful  of  baths.  The  exercise  which 
it  admits  of  while  bathing  is  deemed  especially  beneficial  to  many  kinds  of  invalids. 

The  Vapor  Cave.S.  A  remarkable  feature  of  these  springs  are  the  vapor 
caves — natural  openings  in  the  rocks  to  which  the  steam  from  the  hot  springs 
obtains  access.  In  one  of  these  natural  caves  the  company  has  erected  a  unique 
vapor  bath-house,  with  ample  dressing-rooms,  a  number  of  private  vapor  rooms, 
shower  bath-room,  etc.,  all  lighted  by  electric  lights,  affording  vapor  baths  in  either 
cave  or  private  rooms  at  a  temperature  of  1500  to  no°  Fahrenheit.  These  baths 
are  not  only  a  luxury  to  those  who  are  well,  but  are  especially  recommended  by 
physicians  for  a  number  of  serious  ailments. 

Aspen  Branch.  Extending  from  Glenwood  Springs  in  a  southeasterly 
direction  is  the  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  to  Aspen,  and  its 
wonderful  mines.     The  following  points  are  on  this  line: 

Carhondale.  Situated  at  the  confluence  of  Rock  Creek  and  Roaring  Fork, 
twelve  miles  south  of  Glenwood  Springs.  This  is  the  junction  with  the  Crystal 
River  Railroad  leading  to  the  coke  ovens  and  coal  mines  owned  and  operated  by 
the  Colorado  Fuel  &  Iron  Company.  (Population,  500.  Distance  from  Denver, 
373  miles.     Elevation,  6,181  feet.) 

The  Crystal  River  Railway,  starting  at  Carbondale,  where  it  con- 
nects with  the  Aspen  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  runs  up  the 
valley  of  Rock  Creek,  in  a  southerly  direction,  for  about  twenty  miles,  to  Placita, 


52  OVER   THE  RANGE 

with  a  branch  from  Redstone  to  Coal  Basin,  a  distance  of  twelve  miles.  This  rail- 
way is  owned  by  the  Colorado  Fuel  &  Iron  Company,  and  is  an  important  feeder 
to  the  Rio  Grande  System,  bringing  to  the  main  line  vast  quantities  of  coal  and  coke. 
Avalanche  Creek.  Twelve  miles  from  Carbondale.  This  will  be  the 
shipping-point  for  silver  and  iron  ores  located  six  to  eight  miles  up  Avalanche  Creek. 
Penny's  Hot  Spring's.  Fourteen  miles  south  of  Carbondale,  on  Rock 
Creek.  These  springs  are  said  to  be  equal  to  those  of  Glenwood  in  healing  and 
restorative  power. 

Redstone.  The  junction  of  the  Coal  Basin  branch,  and  seat  of  the  summer 
home  of  the  president  of  the  Colorado  Fuel  &  Iron  Company. 

Coal  Basin.  Nineteen  miles  from  Carbondale.  At  this  station  all  the 
coal  from  Coal  Basin  is  received.  This  is  the  largest  and  finest  body  of  coking 
coal  in  Colorado,  and  is  controlled  by  the  Colorado  Fuel  &  Iron  Company. 
Extensive  coking  ovens  have  been  erected  at  this  point. 

Placita.  Twenty  miles  from  Carbondale.  At  this  point  is  located  the 
coal  breaker  and  extensive  plant  of  the  company,  who  own  the  extensive  anthra- 
cite coal-fields  of  Chair  Mountain.  This  company  is  shipping  large  quantities  of 
anthracice  coal  daily.  This  coal  is  said  to  be  equal  to  the  best  red  ash  coal  of 
Pennsylvania. 

Scenic  Attraction.  The  line  passes  the  base  of  Sopris  Mountain  and 
Chair  Mountain,  and  terminates  in  the  great  elbow  of  the  Elk  Mountains  at  Placita. 
No  finer  scenery  can  be  found  in  the  West.  In  a  ride  of  two  hours  the  tourist  can 
be  transported  from  the  beautiful  valley  of  Roaring  Fork  nearly  to  the  summit  of 
the  Elk  Mountain  Range,  and  can  view  nearly  all  the  prominent  peaks  from  Mount 
Massive  west. 

Returning  to  Carbondale,  the  stations  on  the  main  line  to  Aspen  are  as  follows: 
Emma,  Rose,  and  Woody  Creek. 

Aspen,  the  county-seat  of  Pitkin  County,  is 
located  in  one  of  the  most  noted  mining  regions 
of  Colorado,  and  is  the  terminus  of  the  Aspen 
branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad. 
The  valleys  of  the  Roaring  Fork  River  and  its 
confluents,  Castle,  Hunter's,  and  Maroon  creeks, 
are  especially  fitted  for  agriculture,  and  the  hills 
and  mesas  adjacent  form  a  fine  range  for  stock, 
which  in  addition  to  the  mining  interests  will  surely 
make  Aspen  one  of  the  most  prosperous  cities  in  the 
State.  Stores  and  shops  of  all  kinds,  carrying  large 
lines  of  goods,  are  abundant  and  the  business  done  here  would  do  credit  to  a  town 
boasting  five  times  its  present  population.  The  good  faith  of  the  people  is  mani- 
fested by  the  character  of  the  buildings  they  have  erected.  It  is  a  town  of  beauti- 
ful homes,  and  has  most  excellent  society  All  the  principal  religious  denomina- 
tions have  suitable  houses  of  worship,  and  the  public  schools  are  of  an  excellent 
order.  The  hotels  are  good,  there  is  a  fine  opera  house  and  hotel,  and  the  town 
is  supplied  with  pure  water  from  Castle  Creek.  An  electric-light  plant  illuminates 
the  principal  places  of  business  as  well  as  the  streets.  The  climate  is  delicious 
and  especially  beneficial  in  all  pulmonary  complaints.  Aspen  is  a  garden  town, 
and  displays  many  beautiful  lawns,  sprinkled  and  beautified  by  flowers. 

The  main  industry  of  Pitkin  County,  of  which  Aspen  is  the  county-seat,  is 
mining.     The  town  is  situated  uoon  the  great  zone  or  belt  which  passes  through 


ASPEN. 

Great  Mining  Town. 

Health  and  Pleasure 
Resort. 

Population,  5,000. 

Elevation,  7,874  feet. 

Distance  from   Denver, 
402   miles. 


54 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


the  country  in  a  northeasterly  and  southwesterly  course,  and  has  tributary  territory 
for  from  twenty  to  thirty  miles  each  way.  The  ores  are  of  good  grade  and  are 
found  in  remarkably  large  deposits.  The  Great  Central  lead,  with  its  spurs  and 
lateral  feeders,  resembles  a  river  with  many  branches.     Silver  and  lead  are  the 

principal  mineral  products, 
although     gold     has     been 
found  and  profitably  worked 
at     Independence,     in     the 
eastern  part  of  the  county, 
and  the  iron  ores  at  Coop- 
er's   Camp,    in    the    south- 
western part,  are  found  in 
immense  deposits,  and  are 
of  the  very  finest  quality. 
Building  stone  is  found,  and 
the  rock  is  unsurpassed  in 
texture   or   color,    and    the 
surrounding    hills    will    be 
great     producers    for    out- 
side   markets.     Some    coal 
is  found  in  Pitkin  County, 
but  not  in  extensive  meas- 
ures   as    in     Garfield,     the 
great    coal    county    of    the 
United    States,    which    ad- 
joins upon  the  north.  There 
is    no    territory    of    similar 
area    with    richer   or    more 
varied    products   than    Pit- 
kin County.      The  scenery 
around  this  thriving  city  is 
wonderfully      varied      and 
beautiful.      Situated  in  the 
heart     of     ti»?     mountains, 
and     surrounded     by     the 
most    wonderful    works    of 
nature,    Aspen  will  always 
be    an    attractive    -dace    to 
the    tourist    and    the    lover 
of    the  grand  and    marvel- 
ous.      Hunting  and  fishing 
are  found  here  in  their  per- 
fection.     Nature    seems    to 
have      made      Aspen      her 
favorite    child,  and    has    poured    out  at  her  feet  all  the   rich    gifts   of   her   cornu- 
copia.      (Population,    5,000.       Distance     from    Denver,    402    miles.        Elevation, 
7,874  feet.) 

Returning  to  Glenwood  Springs,  we  cross  to  the  western  bank  of  the  river, 
and  resume  our  journey  towards  the  Occident,  down  the  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Grand. 


MARBLE   CANON. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  55 

New  Castle.  Here  are  located  extensive  coal-mines  and  coking  <>vcn= 
of  the  Colorado  Fuel  &:  Iron  Company.  (Distance  from  Denver,  373  miles. 
Population,  1,000.     Elevation,  5,562  feet.) 

Rifle.     The  debarking  point  for  Meeker  and  other  points  reached  by  stage 
lines.     Excellent  hunting  and   fishing  grounds  surround    Rifle   in   all  direction 
Elk,  deer,  bear,  trout,  and  all  kinds  of  game  are  in  abundance.     (Distance  from 
Denver,  387  miles.     Population,  500.     Elevation,  5,310  feet.) 

Meeker.  (45  miles  north  of  Rifle  by  daily  stage.)  Meeker  is  situated  in 
the  heart  of  the  finest  fishing  and  game  country  in  the  state,  and  naturally  the  great 
goal  for  hunters,  fishermen,  health,  and  pleasure  seekers  generally.  Meeker 
has  excellent  stores,  livery,  and  is  headquarters  for  guides,  and  with  this  point  as 
a  base,  excursions  into  the  game  country,  varying  in  distance  from  5  to  100  miles, 
may  be  made,  well  repaying  the  participants  for  the  outlay  of  time  and  money. 
The  principal  hunting  and  fishing  resorts  are  along  the  north  and  south  forks  of 
the  White  River  and  on  the  White  River  itself,  Marvin  Creek,  Trapper's  Lake, 
Marvine  Lakes  and  numerous  tributaries  of  the  streams  named.  Guides,  horses, 
wagons,  pack-horses,  dogs,  fishing-tackle,  guns,  ammunition,  tents,  and  tamp 
equipage,  together  with  all  manner  of  food  supplies.,  are  obtainable  at  Meeker  at 
reasonable  rates.  The  game  country  around  Meeker  is  prolific  in  all  kind"  of 
big  game,  and  in  the  open  seasons  is  the  mecca  of  many  sportsmen  from  all  over 
the  United  States.  It  was  from  this  point  that  President  Roosevelt  made  his 
famous  lion-hunting  expedition.  The  agent  for  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  at 
Meeker  will  give  his  personal  attention  to  any  requests  for  information,  or  will 
make  advance  arrangements  for  parties  desiring  to  visit  this  region. 

The  Grand  Valley  is  noted  for  its  agricultural  resources,  being  one 
of  the  most  prolific  producing  portions  of  the  state.  All  manner  of  grains  are  raised 
in  great  abundance,  and  the  fruits,  especially  peaches,  grown  in  this  valley  are  unsur- 
passed.    The  principal  railroad  points  are  Parachute,  DeBeque,  and  Palisade. 

In  the  Valley  of  the  Grand  River,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  fertile  and  well-watered  countrv, 
Grand  Junction  is  the  leading  city  of  western 
Colorado.  An  extensive  system  of  irrigating 
ditches  has  been  established,  and  all  the  land 
under  these  ditches  taken  up,  and  most  of  it  culti- 
vated. The  comparatively  low  altitude  of  this 
valley  (it  being  the  lowest  among  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, with  but  one  exception,  in  Utah)  makes  it 
especially  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  fruit  and 
sugar  beets.  Peaches,  grapes,  apricots,  pears,  and 
small  fruits  flourish  here  in  great  luxuriance,  and 
most  of  the  farmers  have  planted  orchards  and 
vineyards  of  greater  or  less  extent.  The  usual 
farm  products  thrive  in  the  valley,  and  large  crops  can  be  counted  on  with  the 
greatest  confidence.  The  discovery  that  sugar  beets  could  be  raised  cheaply  and 
satisfactorily  in  the  country  around  Grand  Junction,  led  the  capitalists  of  the  State- 
to  invest  in  the  construction  of  a  plant  for  the  conversion  of  this  vegetable  into 
sugar.  The  plant  is  large  and  has  enormous  capacity  and  as  the  production  of 
beets  increase  can  easily  enlarge  this  capacity.  The  beets  raised  in  the  vi<  inity 
are  particularly  valuable  for  sugar  manufacture,  running  as  high  as  fifteen  and  eigh- 
teen per  cent  in  saccharine  matter  and  being  fully  ninetv  per  cent  pure.     Farmers 


Grand   Junction. 

Chief  City  of 

Grand    River    Valley,    at 

Junction  of  Grand  and 

Gunnison    Rivers. 

Population,  5,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
450   miles,  via   Standard 

Gauge  Line;  424  miles 
via   Narrow  Gauge   Line. 

Elevation,  4,594  feet. 

Eating  Station. 


56 


OVER   THE  RANGE. 


GRAND  CANON  OF  THE  COLORADO. 


in  the  neighborhood  are  devoting  large  acreages  to  the  cultivation  of  the  beet, 
as  remunerative  crops,  with  the  aid  of  irrigation,  is  assured.  This  industry  is  also 
being  developed  in  other  parts  of  the  State,  and  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when 
Colorado  will  rank  among  the  foremost  in  the  production  of  sugar,  a  truly  valuable 
and  interesting  addition  to  its  long  list  of  business  interests.  Grand  Junction  is 
the  county-seat  of  Mesa  County,  and  has  business  and  public  buildings  of  a  sub- 
stantial character.  Shade  trees  have  been  planted  on  each  side  of  the  streets 
giving  the  town  a  most  pleasing  and  attractive  appearance.  There  is  one  thing 
sure  about  the  Grand  River  Valley,  and  that  is,  it  will  never  want  for  water;  and 
with  plenty  of  water  for  irrigation  secured,  the  future  urosperity  of  the  valley  and 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  57 

the  consequent  growth  of  Grand  Junction  arc  both  assured.  Hack  in  the  hills 
great  herds  are  pastured,  and  extensive  coal-mines  reached  by  the  Little  Book 
Cliff  Railroad  and  large  natural  gas  wells  add  to  the  many  resources  of  this  thriv- 
ing city. 

Grand  Junction  is  well  named,  for  here  is  the  converging  point  of  tin-  standard 
and  narrow-gauge  lines  of  the  Denver  &•  Rio  Grande  Railroad  with  the  Rio  Grande 
Western  line  for  Ogden,  Salt  Lake,  and  the  Pacific  roast,  as  well  as  the  confluem  e 
of  the  two  largest  rivers  in  Colorado,  the  Grand  and  the  Gunnison. 

Fruita  is  the  next  station  to  the  west,  and  is  in  the  heart  of  a  most  magnificent 
fruit-growing  region.  The  peaches,  apricots  and  nectarines  reaching  a  high  degree 
of  perfection  and  of  phenomenal  yield.  (Population,  300.  Distance  from  Denver, 
460  miles.     Elevation,  4,510  feet.) 

The  Utah  Desert.  For  a  stretch  of  about  160  miles  beyond  Fruita 
no  agricultural  country  will  be  seen — over  one  hundred  miles  of  this,  in  fact,  is 
known  as  the  "Utah  Desert."  But  well-informed  people  assert  that  all  this  desert 
needs  to  be  made  fertile  is  irrigation.  Water  can  be  got  on  this  land  from  the 
Grand  River  or  Green  River,  and  perhaps  before  another  decade  has  passed 
away  the  "Utah  Desert"  will  be  ranked  with  that  geographical  myth  of  twenty 
years  ago,  "The  Great  American  Desert." 

The  Book  Cliffs.  The  intervening  space  of  one  hundred  miles  be- 
tween the  Grand  River  and  the  Green  would  be  monotonous  were  it  not  for  the 
glimpses  one  obtains,  to  the  left,  of  the  snow-crowned  San  Rafael  and  Sierra  La  Sal 
Mountains,  and  the  constant  presence,  to  the  right,  of  the  multiform  and  vari- 
colored Book  Cliffs.  These  Cliffs  are  the  northern  shore  of  what  in  former  ages 
must  have  been  a  great  inland  sea,  across  whose  basin  the  railroad  runs.  They 
vary  in  altitude  from  seven  thousand  to  nine  thousand  feet  and  divide  the  waters  of 
the  Grand  River  from  those  of  the  White,  extending  two  hundred  miles  from  east 
to  west. 

Thompson's.  Distance  from  Denver,  528  miles.  Elevation,  5,160  feet. 
Population  nominal.  At  this  point,  during  the  season,  vast  droves  of  sheep  are  driven 
in  from  the  south,  the  wool  clipped,  and  shipped  to  market.  The  region  to  the  south, 
of  which  Moab,  Utah,  is  the  center,  contributes  large  quantities  of  fruit  to  the 
Denver  and  Salt  Lake  City  markets,  which  is  all  brought  to  Thompson's  by  wagon, 
and  thence  by  rail  to  the  cities  named.  West  of  Thompson's  there  are  no  stations 
of  importance  until  the  crossing  of  the  Green  River. 

Gl'een  River  is  an  oasis  in  the  desert,  and  on  alighting  from  the  ears 
the  traveler  is  astonished  at  the  beauty  of  the  surroundings,  situated  as  it  is,  away 
out  on  the  edge  of  the  desert.  A  handsome  lawn  of  shaven  grass  surrounds  the 
station,  ornamented  with  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers.  Green  River  is  a  shipping 
point  of  considerable  importance  for  stock.  (Population  nominal.  Distance  from 
Denver,  555  miles.     Elevation,  4,080  feet.) 

Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado.  From  the  bridge  across  Green 
River  the  traveler  can,  if  the  day  is  clear,  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  rugged  walls  of 
the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado,  scarcely  fifty  miles  to  the  southward. 

ClinihillJ>-  the  Wasatch  Range.  from  Green  River  to  Soldier  Sum- 
mit, a  distance  of  ninety-nine  miles,  the  grade  is  a  constant  ascent,  the  scenery 
growing  wilder  and  more  varied  as  the  advance  is  made.  The  road  extend-,  to  the 
northwest,  and,  after  passing  Sphinx,  Desert  Switch,  and  Cliff  Siding,  unimpor- 
tant sidetracks,  reaches  Woodside,  twenty-five  miles  from  Green  River. 

Woodside  is  situated  on   Price   River   in  the  midst  of  interesting  scenery. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE  59 

Stock  raising  is  tributary  to  the  station.     (Population  norrinal.     Distance  from 
Denver,  580  miles.     Elevation,  4,645  feet.) 

Price  Situated  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Price  River,  the  town  has  a  very 
fertile  valley,  though  of  limited  extent,  surrounding  it.  What  arable  land  there  is 
has  been  carefully  utilized,  and  large  crops  of  potatoes,  alfalfa,  oats,  and  vege- 
tables arc  raised  here,  through  the  aid  of  irrigation.  There  are  mine-;  of  asphaltum 
to  the  northward,  which  are  worked  extensively,  and  the  product  shipped  to  tin 
East.  Price  is  also  an  important  shipping-point  for  cattle,  sheep,  and  wool.  The 
scenery  here  is  very  attractive,  and  the  hunting  and  fishing  are  excellent.  (Popu- 
lation, 100.     Distance  from  Denver,  619  miles.     Elevation,  5,547  feet.-) 

Fort  <lu  Cliesne.  Eighty  miles  to  the  northward  from  Price,  on  the 
Uintah  and  Untompahgre  Indian  reservation,  is  Fort  Du  Chesne,  the  Government 
post,  supplies  for  which  are  forwarded  from  Price.  Fort  Du  Chesne  has  four 
companies  of  infantry,  and  two  of  cavalry,  numbering  in  all  three  hundred  men.  ' 
There  are  4,000,000  acres  in  the  reservation,  all  of  which  are  at  the  service  of  only 
2,500  Indians. 

Helper.  End  of  the  railroad  divisions  and  dining  station.  (Population, 
500.     Distance  from  Denver,  626  miles.     Elevation,  5,840  feet.) 

Four  miles  beyond  Helper  station  the  train 
enters  the  famous  portals  of  Castle  Gate,  which 
stand  at  the  entrance  of  the  Price  River  Canon. 
Castle  date  is  similar  in  many  respects  to  the  gate- 
way in  the  Garden  of  Gods.  The  two  huge  pillars, 
or  ledges  of  rock  composing  it,  are  offshoots  of  the 
cliffs  behind.  They  are  of  different  heights,  one 
measuring  five  hundred,  and  the  other  four  hundred 
and  fifty  feet,  from  top  to  base.  They  are  richly 
dyed  with  red,  and  the  firs  and  pines  growing  about  them,  but  reaching  only  to 
their  lower  strata,  render  this  coloring  more  noticeable  and  beautiful.  Between  the 
two  sharp  promontories,  which  are  separated  only  by  a  narrow  space,  the  river  and 
the  railway  both  run,  one  pressing  closely  against  the  other.  The  stream  leaps 
over  a  rocky  bed,  and  its  banks  are  lined  with  tangled  brush.  Once  past  the  gate, 
and  looking  back,  the  bold  headlands  forming  it  have  a  new  and  more  attrai  the 
beauty.  They  are  higher  and  more  massive,  it  seems,  than  when  we  were  in  their 
shadow.  No  other  pinnacles  approach  them  in  size  or  majesty.  They  are  land- 
marks up  and  down  the  canon,  their  lofty  tops  catching  the  eye  before  their  bases 
are  discovered.  It  was  down  Price  River  Canon,  and  past  Castle  Gate,  that 
Albert  Sidney  Johnston  marched  his  army  home  from  Utah.  For  miles  now,  and 
until  the  mountains  are  crossed,  the  route  chosen  by  the  General  is  closely  followed. 
The  gateway  is  hardly  lost  to  view  by  a  turn  in  the  canon  before-  we  are  scaling  the 
\rooded  heights.  The  river  is  never  lost  sight  of.  The  cliffs  which  hem  us  in  are 
filled  with  curious  forms.  Now  there  is  seen  a  mighty  castle,  with  moats  and 
towers,  loopholes  and  wall;  now  a  gigantic  head  appears.  At  times  side  canons, 
smaller  than  the  one  we  are  in,  lead  to  verdant  heights  beyond,  where  game  of 
every  variety  abounds. 

Kyillie.  Large  stone  quarries  are  worked  here.  (Distance  from  Den%*er, 
639  miles.     Elevation,  6,960  feet.) 

Coltoil.  This  little  town  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  ri<  h  and  extensive  coal 
measures.  A  branch  road  runs  to  the  coal-mines,  a  distance  of  about  twenty  miles 
to  the  southward.     The  coal  is  valuable  for  coking,  and  is  used  in  the  various 


CASTLE    GATE. 

Entrance  to 
Price  River  Canon. 

Height,  500  feet. 


60  OVER   THE  RANGE 

smelters  of  the  territory,  and  is  shipped  in  large  quantities  to  the  Pacific  Coast. 
(Population,  200.     Distance  from  Denver,  644  miles.     Elevation,  7,071  feet.) 

Pleasant  Valley  Branch.  From  Colton  the  branch  extends  to  Clear 
Creek,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  The  intervening  stations  are  Hale,  Scofield, 
and  Winter  Quarters.  The  chief  business  of  the  road  is  the  transportation  of  coal, 
which  is  mined  extensively  here. 

Soldier  Summit.  Here  we  are  on  the  highest  railroad  point  on  the 
Wasatch  Range,  and  at  this  point  General  A.  S.  Johnston  crossed  the  range  in  his 
march  to  Utah,  and  here  is  '->uried  one  of  his  soldiers,  hence  the  name  of  the  station. 
Good  pasturage  covers  the  mountain  tops,  and  great  herds  of  cattle,  horses,  and 
sheep  graze  here  among  the  sage  brush.  The  scenery  here  is  wild  and  picturesque, 
and  the  view  is  wide,  embracing  a  great  sweep  of  serrated  mountain  summits. 
(Population  nominal.  Distance  from  Denver,  652  miles.  Elevation,  7,454  feet.) 
From  this  point  the  descent  is  made  to  the  Utah  Valley. 

Red  Narrows.  Here  the  cliffs  rise  on  each  side  of  the  track,  assuming 
fantastic  forms,  and  glowing  with  varied  colors,  among  which  red  is  predominant; 
hence  the  name. 

Thistle  Junction.  This  is  the  junction  point  of  the  main  line  and  the 
San  Pete  branch  extending  to  Marysvale.  (Population,  100.  Elevation,  5,033 
feet.     Distance  from  Denver,  677  miles.) 

The  San  Pete  Branch  of  the  Rio  Grande  System  starts  toward  the  vast 
mines  and  quarries,  grain  fields  and  fruit  gardens  that  lie  toward  the  south  from 
Thistle.  Glance  for  a  moment  down  this  branch  line.  Two  miles  from  Thistle  is 
Asphaltum  station,  where  there  is  a  bed  of  nearly  pure  asphaltum,  covering  a 
square  mile,  and  from  eight  to  fourteen  feet  thick.  Six  miles  further,  and  at  Pines, 
a  view  is  caught  of  Mount  Nebo,  one  of  the  tallest  and  grandest  peaks  in  Utah, 
snow-capped  all  the  year.  About  a  mile  below  Pines  the  road  enters  the  Indian 
Reservation,  and  seven  miles  onward  is  Indianola,  around  which  cluster  the  adobe 
houses  and  tepees  of  a  branch  of  the  great  Ute  tribe,  whence  Utah  has  its  name. 
They  do  a  little  farming  and  stock-raising,  and  a  good  deal  of  hunting  and  fishing, 
and,  all  things  considered,  are  generally  doing  well.  Whirling  on  through  twenty 
miles  of  pastures  and  farms,  past  Hilltop  and  Milburn,  at  Fairview  a  glorious  view 
of  the  San  Pete  Valley,  "the  granary  of  Utah,"  bursts  upon  the  enchanted  eye. 
The  whole  country  for  fifty  miles  is  a  mingling  of  field  and  garden.  Only  six  miles 
more,  and  the  train  sweeps  into  Mount  Pleasant,  nestled  in  peach  and  apricot, 
apple,  pear,  and  plum  trees,  all  bowed  down  with  their  loads  of  fruit.  The  town 
stands  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  on  a  commanding  site.  It  has  about  3,000 
population,  a  fiouring-mill  and  planing-mill,  and  is  the  seat  of  Wasatch  Academy, 
a  Presbyterian  school  of  some  repute.  Five  miles  in  twelve  minutes,  and  Spring 
City  is  passed,  with  great  masses  of  snow-crowned  mountains  east  and  southeast  of 
it,  and  in  ten  miles  more,  Ephraim's  bowers  of  fruit  and  shade  are  entered.  In  a 
population  of  2,200  there  are  800  school  children,  besides  all  those  too  young  for 
schooling.  A  new  depot,  new  hotel,  and  many  other  new  buildings  tell  the  story  of 
prosperity. 

A  dash  of  seven  miles  onward,  and  Manti  is  reached,  with  2,500  people,  and 
hardly  a  poor  man  among  them.  Here,  at  the  top  of  four  lofty  terraces  hewn  from 
the  mountain  side,  stands  the  magnificent  Mormon  temple,  which  has  cost 
$2,500,000,  and  is  only  second  to  the  one  in  Salt  Lake  City.  It  is  nearly  two  hun- 
dred feet  long,  one  hundred  wide,  and  one  hundred  high,  with  massive  towers  at 
each  end,  rising  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  in  the  air.     It  is  built  of  snow- 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  6 1 

white  oolite,  quarried  out  of  the  site  on  which  it  stands,  and  the  whole  workmanship 
is  exquisite.  It  can  be  plainly  seen  for  forty  miles  up  and  down  the  valley.  A  hot 
spring  on  the  edge  of  the  town  pours  out  a  hundred  cubic  feet  a  minute  of  water 
gifted  with  remarkable  medicinal  qualities.  Just  below  Manti  are  the  strange 
"Saleratus  Beds,"  where  for  two  miles  or  more  the  road  runs  through  vast  deposits 
of  soda  pure  enough  for  cooking  purposes. 

The  train  rushes  on  through  a  continuous  succession  of  grain  fields  and  ore  hards. 
Sterling,  Gunnison,  and  Axtell  are  passed,  the  Sevier  Valley  is  entered,  and  the 
locomotive  screams  its  greeting  to  Salina,  a  thriving  town  of  1,000  industrious 
citizens.  Just  back  of  the  town  are  mountains  of  rock  salt,  much  of  it  as  clear  as 
crystal,  and  absolutely  pure.  Millions  on  millions  of  tons  of  it  can  be  blasted 
out  as  cheap  as  dirt.  About  a  mile  south  of  these  mountainous  monuments  to 
the  memory  of  Lot's  wife  is  a  mountain  of  almost  pure  gypsum,  and  there  is 
kaolin  enough  to  furnish  all  the  potteries  and  candy-makers  of  the  world.  The 
whole  region  abounds  with  game  and  fish.  The  railway  company  are  now  con- 
structing a  branch  line  in  a  northeasterly  direction  from  Salina  to  a  connection 
with  the  main  line  at  a  point  near  Green  River,  thus  shortening  the  distance  be- 
tween the  east  and  this  rich  valley  by  almost  one  hundred  miles.  Leaving  Salina 
the  San  Pete  Branch  continues  to  the  southward  past  Richfield,  Elsinore,  and 
Sevier  to  Marysvale,  a  distance  of  forty-seven  miles.  Through  this  stretch  of 
beautiful  valley  will  be  found  many  charming  orchards  and  fields  of  waving 
grain,  and  back  in  the  hills  the  mines  give  forth  their  hoard  of  precious  metals. 
Marysvale  is  destined  to  be  a  city  of  great  importance  at  no  distant  day,  as  all 
southern  Utah  and  Nevada  will  be  tributary  to  it,  and  projected  lines  of  railway 
to  southern  California  have  their  northern  terminals  here.  Returning  again  to 
the  main  line  we  find  that  the 

Spanish  Fork  Canon  is  charmingly  picturesque,  and  a  spot  which 
would  delight  the  artist.  It  is  characterized  by  fresh  foliage,  soft  contours,  charm- 
ing contrasts,  and  sparkling  waters.  Emerging  from  the  canon  the  traveler  realizes 
that  one  stage  of  his  mountain  journey  has  been  achieved,  and  before  him  lies  one 
of  the  most  fertile  valleys  in  the  world. 

Utah  Valley.  This  favored  spot  presents  the  appearance  of  a  well-culti- 
vated park.  It  has  an  Arcadian  beauty,  and  resembles  the  vales  of  Scotland.  In 
the  center  rests  Utah  Lake,  where 

".  .  .  the  stars  and  mountains  view 
The  stillness  of  their  aspect  in  each  trace 
Its  clear  depth  yields  of  their  far  height  and  hue." 

A  little  back  from  the  lake  stand  the  towns  of  Springville  and  Provo,  shaded  by 
the  near  peaks  of  the  range.  Utah  Valley  possesses  a  fertile  soil,  a  delightful 
climate,  and  is  one  of  the  best  farming  sections  of  Utah.  Fruit  trees  and  grape 
vines  grow  as  readily  as  hay  and  cereals,  and  the  sugar  beet  is  rapidly  proving  a 
source  of  great  wealth  to  the  farmers  in  this  favored  region.  Eastward  the  oblong- 
shaped  basin  is  shut  in  by  the  Wasatch  Mountains;  and  on  the  west  in  the  Oquirrh 
Range.  Northward  are  low  hills,  or  mesas,  crossing  the  valley  and  separating  it 
from  that  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake;  while  in  the  south,  the  east  and  west  ranges 
approach  each  other  and  form  blue-tinted  walls  of  uneven  shape.  To  the  left  of 
this  barrier  Mount  Nebo,  highest  and  grandest  of  the  Utah  peaks,  rises  majestically 
above  all  surroundings.  Its  summit  sparkles  with  snow,  its  lower  slopes  are  wooded 
and  soft,  while  from  it,  and  extending  north  and  south,  run  vast,  broken,  vari- 
colored confreres.     The  valley  is  like  a  well-kept  garden;  farm  joins  farm;  crystal 


62 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


streams  water  it;  and  scattered  about  in  rich  profusion  are  long  lines  of  fruit  trees, 
amid  which  are  trim,  white  houses.  All  these  evidences  of  prosperity  testify  to 
the  virtues  of  industry,  frugality,  and  perseverance,  which  no  one  can  deny  are 
possessed  by  the  Mormon  farmers. 

Springville.  This  is  a  typical  Mormon  town,  and  is  really  the  first  Mor- 
mon settlement  we  enter.  The  town  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  a  strong 
hot  spring  pours  its  waters  into  a  stream  just  above  the  town,  in  Hobble  Canon. 
The  water  does  not  freeze  in  winter,  and  thus  a  flouring  mill  run  by  it  is  enabled  to 
work  the  year  round.  (Population,  3,500.  Distance  from  Denver,  692  miles. 
Elevation,  4,555  feet.) 

Tintic  Branch  extends  southward  from  Springville,  on  through  Spanish 
Fork,  Payson,  and  Goshen,  a  region  rich  in  all  agricultural  productions.  West  of 
Goshen,  the  branch  line  enters  Pinon  Canon,  and  runs  for  ten  miles  through  as 
wild  and  rugged  scenes  as  can  be  found  in  all  this  region  of  scenic  wonders.  The 
track  through  the  canon  is  a  dizzy  puzzle  in  engineering.  It  winds  and  climbs, 
twists,  turns,  and  wriggles,  and  at  last  absolutely  crosses  itself  backward  and  for- 
ward, tying  itself  into  a  loop  like  a  double  bow-knot.  There  are  but  two  similar 
track  tangles  in  the  United  States,  one  in  California  and  the  other  in  Colorado. 
Out  of  this  canon  labyrinth,  the  line  emerges  at  Silver  City  in  the  far-famed  Tintic 
mining-camp;  and  just  on  beyond  that,  will  doubdess  ere  long  rush  its  iron  horse 
into  the  newly  discovered  Deep  Creek  bonanza  region,  whose  richness  is  now 
attiacting  wide-spread  attention. 

Spanish  Fork.  This  is  the  first  town  on  the  Tintic  Branch  that  the 
tourist  enters.  It  is  situated  on  the  Spanish  Fork  River,  and  is  a  most  pleasant 
rural  village.  Fruit  and  shade  trees  abound.  Agricultural,  horticultural,  and 
pastoral  industries  are  pursued  by  the  inhabitants.  Vineyards  flourish,  wine  is 
made,  dairy  products  are  a  specialty,  and  the  cereals  and  all  kinds  of  vegetables 
are  cultivated.  (Population,  3,000.  Distance  from  Denver,  695  miles.  Eleva- 
i.on,  4,570  feet.) 

This  pretty  little  city  belongs  to  the  best  type 
of  Mormon  towns,  and  a  description  of  it  will 
serve  to  give  the  reader  a  good  idea  of  the  charac- 
teristics  of  all  the  towns  built  by  the  Mormons. 
The  dwellings,  as  a  rule,  are  comfortable,  but  not 
imposing  in  appearance.  Many  of  them  are  con- 
structed of  adobe  or  sun-dried  bricks,  and  all  are 
situated  in  lots  of  generous  proportions  and  sur- 
rounded by  ornamental  and  fruit  trees.  Water 
for  irrigating  purposes  flows  down  each  side  of  the 
streets,  and  shade  trees  in  abundance  and  of  luxuri- 
ant growth  render  the  walks  cool  and  inviting. 
Gardens  filled  with  fruits,  flowers,  and  vegetables  are  the  rule,  and  a  quiet,  peace- 
ful, industrious,  semi-rural  life  is  the  good  fortune  of  the  residents  here.  The  town 
is  eminently  fitted  for  a  health  and  pleasure  resort,  and  has  also  great  advantages 
as  a  manufacturing  center.  The  Timpanogas  River  furnishes  unexcelled  water 
power,  while  inexhaustible  supplies  of  artesian  water  are  to  be  found  at  a  depth  of 
from  forty  to  two  hundred  feet.  The  city  has,  in  fact,  the  finest  water  supply  of 
any  in  Utah  Territory.  Provo  has  a  fine  public  school  system  and  is  the  scat  of  the 
Brigham  Young  Academy,  which  was  amply  endowed  by  the  first  president  of 
the  Mormon  Church,  from  whom  the  school  takes  its  name.     Its  churches  and  pub- 


PROVO. 

County-Seat  of  Utah  Co. 
Summer  Resort. 

Population,  6,500. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
696  miles. 

Elevation,  4,512  feet. 


64  OVER    THE  RANGE 

lie  buildings,  including  an  opera  house,  are  a  credit  to  its  people,  who  are  of  a 
literary  taste  and  inclined  to  liberality  of  thought.  Utah  Lake,  a  fine  body  of 
fresh  water,  lies  to  the  southwest,  and  to  the  north  and  east  are  the  Wasatch  Moun- 
tains. Farming  and  beet  sugar  raising,  horticulture,  and  the  raising  of  cattle  and 
sheep  are  tributary  industries,  while  in  the  town  are  large  saw-mills,  sugar 
factories,  flouring  mills,  and  woolen  mills,  the  most  extensive  in  Utah. 

PrOVO  Canon  or  Hebor  Branch.  This  branch  traverses  its  entire  length 
the  beautiful  Provo  Canon.  The  railway  follows  the  windings  of  the  Provo  River 
from  the  mouth  to  the  head  of  the  canon,  where  it  widens  into  the  picturesque 
Heber  valley.     It  offers,  therefore,  innumerable  shady  spots  along  a  stream  that 


LAKE   SAN   CRISTOVAL. 

abounds  with  mountain  trout.  At  Bridal  Veil  Falls,  whose  waters  dash  over  a 
precipice  400  feet  high,  likewise  at  the  Forks  of  the  River,  accommodations  for 
tourists  have  been  provided.  A  trip  through  this  canon  to  Midway,  the  Natural 
Hot  Pots  and  Heber  will  convince  you  that  no  lovelier  or  more  healthful  spot  exists 
in  the  state.  The  "Hot  Pots"  are  natural  craters  of  boiling  waters,  and  here  has 
been  established  a  comfortable  sanitarium,  with  baths  of  all  temperatures  and 
description.  This  is  also  the  route  to  the  Strawberry  and  Duchesne  valleys. 
En  route  are  passed  Caryhurst,  Nunns,  and  Charleston,  the  latter  a  charming  village 
of  250  inhabitants.  At  Heber,  the  terminus  of  the  branch,  we  find  a  thriving  town 
of  1,600  people.     (Distance  from  Denver,  722  miles.     Elevation,  5,550  feet.) 

XJtilll  Lake.  Mention  has  already  been  made  of  this  beautiful  body  of 
water,  but  the  statistical  traveler  may  want  to  know  something  more  definite  about 
its  dimensions.  The  lake  is  thirty  miles  long,  six  miles  wide,  and  is  fed  by  the 
American  Fork,  Spanish  Fork,  and  Provo  Rivers,  and  Salt,  Peteetweet,  and  Hobble 
Creeks.  Its  outlet  is  the  Jordan  River  which,  flowing  northward,  empties  into 
Great  Salt  Lake.     There  are  plenty  of  fish  in  Utah  Lake,  chiefly  trout  and  mullet. 

American  Fork.  On  the  western  extremity  of  Utah  Lake,  is  American 
Fork,  a  thriving  town  beautifully  situated  and  embowered  in  tr?.cs.  Agricultural 
and  pastoral  industries  are  tributary  to  its  prosperity.  (Population,  3,000.  Dis- 
^«ce  from  Denver,  709  miles.     Elevation,  4,563  feet.) 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


65 


Lelii.     Four  miles  from  American  Fork  is  Lehi,  another  thriving  town  also 

on  Utah  Lake.  Fruit  and  shade  trees  abound  and  make  the  town  a  place  of  sylvan 
beauty.  The  same  industries  thrive  here  as  in  the  sister  town  mentioned  above. 
Situated  at  Lehi  is  the  main  establishment  of  the  Utah  Sugar  Co.'s  beet  sugar 
plant.  Here  the  beet  is  reduced  in  vast  quantities  to  commercial  sugar  of  excellent 
quality.  At  several  other  points  in  the  Utah  Valley  the  Sugar  Company  have 
crushing  plants,  where  the  syrup  is  extracted  from  the  beets  and  pumped  in  long 


THE   BALANCED   ROCK. 


pipe  lines  to  the  works  at  Lehi  for  final  refining.  Much  could  be  written  on  the 
beet  sugar  industry,  but  suffice  here  to  say,  that  this  new  source  of  wealth  bids 
fair  to  place  Utah  at  the  head  of  her  sister  states  in  the  production  of  sugar,  and  of 
wealth  consequent  thereon.  The  plants  mentioned  herein  are  of  most  recenl 
and  modern  construction  and  capable  of  handling  an  enormous  amount  of  beets 
daily.  (Population,  3,000.  Distance  from  Denver,  713  miles.  Elevation,  4,544 
feet.) 

Bingham  Junction.  This  station  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Bingham 
and  Alta  branches  of  the  road,  and  therefore  is  quite  a  bustling  place  in  the  way 
of  railroad  business,  though  it  has  but  a  nominal  population.  (Distance  from  Den- 
ver, 730  miles.     Elevation,  4,365  feet.) 


66  OVER    THE  RANGE 

Bingham  Branch.  This  branch  extends  southwest  to  Bingham,  a 
distance  of  fourteen  miles.  The  intervening  stations  are  Revere,  Lead  Mine,  and 
Terra  Cotta. 

Bingham.  The  town  may  almost  be  classed  as  a  suburb  of  Salt  Lake 
City,  as  it  is  less  than  an  hour's  ride  from  the  capital  of  Utah  Territory.  The 
main  industry  of  the  surrounding  population  is  mining.  (Population,  900.  Dis- 
tance from  Denver,  744  miles.     Elevation,  5,862  feet.) 

Little  Cottonwood  Branch.  This  branch  extends  to  the  northward 
from  Bingham  Junction  to  Wasatch,  a  distance  of  ten  miles.  The  intermediate 
stations  are  Sandy  and  Davenport.  The  line  passes  through  the  Little  Cottonwood 
Canon  en  route. 

Alta.  This  is  a  mining  town  known  all  round  the  world.  The  place  is  not 
on!y  entertaining  in  itself,  but  in  its  neighborhood  are  a  large  number  of  easily 
accessible  gorges,  lakes,  and  hilltops  full  of  artistic  material  and  of  trout  fishing;  or, 
if  the  tourist  goes  late  in  the  season,  of  good  shooting  and  ample  opportunity  for 
dangerous  adventures  in  mountaineering.  The  Little  Cottonwood  canon  is  one 
of  those  great  crevices  between  the  peaks  of  the  Wasatch  Range,  plainly  visible 
from  Salt  Lake  City,  and  distinguished  by  its  white  walls,  which,  when  wet  with 
the  morning  dews,  gleam  like  monstrous  mirrors  as  the  sunlight  reaches  them  from 
over  the  top  of  the  range.  Alta  is  reached  by  a  narrow  gauge  tram  from  Wasatch 
a  distance  of  about  eight  miles. 

The  River  Jordan.  After  the  valley  of  Utah  Lake  has  been  left  behind, 
en  route  to  Salt  Lake  City,  on  the  left  of  the  track  is  seen  a  small  river  of  yellow 
water  meandering  through  the  sage  brush  and  volcanic  scoria.  The  river  is  the 
Jordan,  so  called  because  it  connects  the  Utah  with  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  as  its 
namesake  does  Galilee  and  the  Dead  Sea. 

In  July,  1847,  Brigham  Young  stood  on  Ensign 
Peak,  the  "Mount  of  Prophecy,'  and  announced 
to  his  followers  that  down  in  the  valley  below 
should  be  founded  the  new  "City  of  Zion, "  the 
future  home  of  the  Latter  Day  Saints.  Up  to 
1S71  the  original  settlers  virtually  lived  apart  from 
the  rest  of  the  world.  This  was  owing  to  the 
religious  \iews  of  the  Mormons,  which  made  them 
a  peculiar  and  isolated  people.  To  mining  is  due 
the  first  incursion  of  Gentile  population,'  which 
population  has  steadily  increased,  until  at  present  the  community  of  Salt  Lake 
City  differs  but  little  from  any  other  in  its  social,  business,  or  religious  aspect,  except 
that  it  possesses,  in  addition  to  the  accepted  religious  associations  which  exist  else- 
where, one  which  differs  from  all  others.  The  city  is  situated  at  the  base  of  the 
Wasatch  Mountains,  which  are  a  part  of  the  great  Continental  Range  dividing  the 
Far  West  from  the  plains  which  extend  from  the  base  of  the  Rockies  to  the  Missouri 
River.  The  finest  residence  portion  of  the  city  occupies  the  mountain  bench,  once 
the  shore  of  a  great  inland  sea,  known  to  geologists  and  scientists  as  "Lake  Bonne- 
ville," from  which,  ages  ago,  the  waters  receded  until  they  settled  in  the  basin  of 
the  Great  Salt  Lake,  distant  eighteen  miles  from  the  water  marks  yet  plainly  to  be 
seen  above  the  city.  The  location  is  such  as  to  command  a  view  of  the  entire 
valley,  both  ranges  of  mountains,  and  the  southern  portion  of  the  lake.  The 
streets  are  one  hundred  and  thirty-two  feet  wide  and  bordered  on  each  side  with 
long  rows  of  shade  trees.     Streams  of  pure  water  are  conducted  in  ditches  along 


SALT  LAKE  CITY. 

Capital  of  the  State 
of  Utah. 

Population,  70,000. 

Elevation,  4,225  feet. 

Distance   from   Denver, 
741  miles. 


6S  OVER    THE  RANGE 

both  sides  of  all  the  streets.  The  business  sections  are  well  built,  and  the  business 
streets  are  paved.  One  of  the  largest  business  enterprises  of  the  city  is  the  Co-opera- 
tive Establishment.  For  convenience  it  is  universally  called  the  "Co-op.";  its  title 
in  full  is  the  "  Zion's  Co-operative  Mercantile  Institution. "  It  has  a  central  building 
for  headquarters  and  branches  throughout  the  city  and  State.  Whenever 
one  sees  a  building  with  the  mystic  initials  "Z.  C.  M.  I."  on  its  sign,  one  may 
know  it  is  a  branch  of  the  great  "Co-op."  The  headquarters  of  this  institution 
are  of  brick,  three  hundred  and  eighteen  by  fifty-three  feet  in  size,  three  stories 
high,  and  built  over  a  large  cellar.  This  building  is  crowded  with  merchandise 
of  every  description,  and  does  an  extensive  wholesale  and  retail  business.  "  Tem- 
ple Square"  is  a  great  attraction  for  the  tourist.  Here  are  situated  the  Mormon 
Temple,  Tabernacle,  and  Assembly  Hall.  The  Tabernacle  is  immense  in  its  pro- 
portions, the  roof  resembling  an  upturned  boat,  and  is  risible  from  nearly  every  part 
of  the  city.  The  Temple  is,  with  the  single  exception  of  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral 
in  New  York,  the  grandest  and  costliest  ecclesiastical  structure  in  this  country. 
It  was  begun  in  1853,  completed  in  1893,  and  cost  nearly  $6,000,000.  It  is  two 
hundred  feet  long,  a  hundred  feet  wide,  and  a  hundred  feet  high,  with  four  towers, 
one  at  each  corner,  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height.  The  walls  are  ten  feet 
thick,  and  the  massiveness  and  solidity  of  its  construction  insure  its  defiance  of 
the  ravages  of  time  for  ages  to  come.  It  is  built  wholly  of  snow-white  granite  from 
the  Cottonwood  Canon;  and,  standing  on  one  of  the  loftiest  points  in  the  city,  can 
be  seen  for  fifty  miles  up  and  down  the  valley.  Near  by  arc  the  Bee  Hive  and  Lion 
Houses,  once  the  homes  of  Brigham  Young  and  his  many  wives.  The 
Hot  Springs  and  the  Warm  Springs  of  Salt  Lake  are  highly 
medicinal,  and  the  large  baths  at  both  places  are  resorted  to  for  many 
ailments.  "Within  a  short  radius  of  the  city  the  attractions  are  varied  and 
numerous.  Fort  Douglas,  the  Lake,  Emigration  City,  Bingham,  Little 
and  Big  Cottonwood  Canons,  the  Hot  Pots  at  Heber  are  easily  reached. 
From  Ensign  Peak  a  panoramic  view  of  the  surrounding  country  is  had.  One 
may  look  from  it  down  the  greater  part  of  Utah's  length,  while  near  at  hand  lie 
the  city  and  lake.  The  Fort  is  also  a  popular  resort,  and  not  only  commands  an 
extensive  view,  but  affords  excellent  opportunities  of  studying  garrison  life.  The 
rides,  drives,  and  rambles  are  innumerable.  Every  taste  is  catered  to.  For  those 
who  love  grandeur,  there  are  the  mountains,  with  their  narrow  trails,  secluded 
parks,  wild  canons  and  deep  gorges;  for  those  preferring  gentler  aspects,  the  valley, 
glowing  with  freshness,  affords  continual  pleasure;  for  those  craving  the  mysterious, 
there  is  the  lake,  large,  silent,  and  strange.  The  hotels  are  excellent,  the  climate 
unexcelled,  and  days  may  be  passed  delightfully  in  exploring  and  in  studying  the 
wealth  of  attractions.  There  are  theaters,  reading  rooms,  good  horses,  excellent 
electric  railways  reaching  to  all  parts  of  the  city  and  suburbs,  perfect  order  and 
universal  cleanliness.  Many  of  the  private  houses  are  palatial,  and  altogether  the 
city  is  one  of  rare  beauty  and  interest. 

As  far  as  can  be  learned,  the  first  mention  in  history  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake 
was  by  the  Baron  La  Houtan,  in  1689,  who  gathered  from  the  Western  Indians 
some  vague  notions  of  its  existence.  Captain  Bonneville  sent  a  party  from 
Green  River  in  1833  to  make  its  circuit,  but  they  seem  to  have  given  up  the 
enterprise  on  reaching  the  desert  on  the  northwest,  on  which  they  lost  their 
way,  and  after  weeks  of  aimless  wandering  found  themselves  in  Lower  California. 
To  General  John  C.  Fremont  must  be  given  the  credit  of  first  navigating  its 
waters.     In   184-',  on  his  way  to  Oregon,   General  Fremont  pushed  out  from  the 


Great  Salt   Lake. 

Area,  2,500  square 
miles. 

Mean  Depth,  20  feet. 

Specific  Gravity,  1.107. 

Length,  126  miles. 

Breadth.  45  miles. 


70  OVER    THE  RANGE 

mouth  of  Webber  River,  in  a  rubber  boat,  for  the  nearest  island.  He  found  it  to 
be  a  desolate  rock,  fourteen  miles  in  circumference  and  named  it  Disappointment 
Island.  Captain  Stansbury,  on  a  subsequent  visit, 
re -named  it  Fremont's  Island,  which  name  is  re- 
tained. In  1850  Captain  Stansbury  spent  three 
months  in  making  a  detailed  survey  of  the  Lake, 
its  shores  and  islands.  In  brief,  he  found  the  west 
shore  a  salt-encrusted  desert;  the  north  shore  com- 
posed of  wide  salt  marshes,  overflowed  under  steady 
winds  from  the  south;  the  east  shore  possessed  good, 
irrigable  lands;  the  south  shore  was  set  with  moun- 
tain ranges  standing  endways  towards  the  lake,  with 
the  grass}-  valleys,  Spring,  Toelle,  and  Jordan,  inter- 
vening. The  principal  islands  are  Antelope  and 
Stansburv,  rocky  ridges  ranging  north  and  south,  rising  abruptly  from  the  water  to  n 
height  of  three  thousand  feet.  Antelope  is  the  nearest  to  Salt  Lake  City,  and  is  six- 
teen miles  long.  Stansburv  is  twenty  miles  to  the  westward  and  is  twelve  miles  in 
length.  Both  have  springs  of  fresh  water  and  good  range  for  the  stock,  with  which 
they  are  now  covered.  Of  minor  islands  there  are  Fremont,  Carrington,  Gunni- 
son, Dolphin,  Mud,  Egg,  and  Hat,  besides  several  small  insular  promontories  without 
names.  The  first  white  man's  boat  to  navigate  the  lake  was  probably  that  of 
Fremont;  Captain  Stansbury  came  next  with  his  exploring  boat  curiously  named 
the  "Salicornia";  next  in  order  were  the  Walker  brothers,  merchants  of  Salt  Lake 
City,  who  sailed  for  some  years  a  lonesome  pleasure  yacht.  The  lake  covers  an 
area  of  2,500  square  miles.  Its  mean  depth  does  not  probably  exceed  twenty  feet, 
while  the  deepest  place  between  Antelope  arid  Stansbury  is  sixty  feet.  From 
1847  to  1856  the  lake  gradually  filled  five  or  six  feet,  and  then  slowly  subsided  to 
its  old  level.  In  1863  it  began  to  fill  again,  and  in  four  or  five  years  reached  a 
point  considerably  higher  than  its  present  level,  .perhaps  four  or  five  feet.  In  the 
year  1875  a  pillar  was  set  up  at  P.lack  Rock,  by  which  to  measure  the  rise  and  fall, 
resembling  a  tide,  but  having  no  ascertained  time.  It  is  very  slight  compared  with 
what  it  formerly  was.  Professor  Gilbert  of  the  Geological  Survey,  says  that  twice 
within  recent  geological  time  it  has  risen  nearly  a  thousand  feet  higher  than  its 
present  stage,  and,  of  course,  covered  vastly  more  ground.  He  calls  that  lake 
after  Captain  Bonneville,  the  original  explorer  of  these  regions,  and  whom  Irving 
has  immortalized,  Lake  Bonneville.  Causes  which  learned  men  assign  as  produ- 
cing what  they  call  a  glacial  period  might  easily  fill  the  lake  until  it  extended  nearly 
the  whole  length  of  Utah.  During  the  last  high  stage,  Professor  Gilbert  says  there 
were  active  volcanoes  in  it.  It  is  generally  agreed  that  its  first  outbreak  was  vi  1 
Marsh  Creek,  and  the  Portneuf  into  the  Snake.  At  the  present  height  of  that 
channel  (where  the  Oregon  Short  Line  passes  out  of  Cache  Valley)  it  remained  a 
long  time  stationary  and  then  seems  to  have  receded  rapidly  to  a  second  stationary 
point,  and  so  on  down  to  its  present  stage.  There  is  one  very  heavy  beach-mark 
on  all  the  hills  surrounding  its  extended  area  and  on  the  hills,  which  were  then 
islands,  and  a  curious  thing  is  the  fact  that  this  beach-mark  varies  in  altitude  from 
one  hundred  to  three  hundred  feet,  showing  that  the  earth  in  this  valley  is  still  far 
from  having  reached  a  stable  equilibrium. 

The  most  mysterious  thing  about  this  inland  sea,  aside  from  its  saltness,  is  the 
fact  that  it  has  no  known  outlet.  A  great  number  of  fresh  water  streams  pour  into 
the  lake  from  all  sides,  yet  the  water  remains  salt  and  the  lake  does  not  overflow. 


m 


72 


OVER    THE   RANGE 


The  saline  or  solid  matter  held  in  solution  by  the  water  varies  as  the  lake  rises  and 
subsides.  In  1842  Fremont  obtained  "fourteen  pints  of  very  white  salt"  from  five 
gallons  of  the  water  evaporated  over  a  camp-fire.  The  salt  was  also  very  pure, 
assaying  97.80  fine.  In  1850  Dr.  L.  D.  Gale  analyzed  a  sample  of  it  which  yielded 
twenty  per  cent  of  pure  common  salt,  and  about  two  per  cent  of  foreign  salts,  chlo- 
rides of  lime  and  magnesia.  Sergeant  Smart,  U.  S.  A.,  analyzed  a  sample  in  1877, 
and  found  an  imperial  gallon  to  contain  nearly  24^  ounces  of  saline  matter,  amount- 
ing to  fourteen  per  cent,  as  follows: 


Common  salt 1 1-735 

Lime  carbonate .016 

Lime  sulphate .073 

Epsom  salt 1-123 

Chloride  of  magnesia .843 

Percentage  of  solids I3-79° 

Water    86.2 10 


100. 
One  hundred  grains  of  the  dry  solid 
matter  contained: 

Common  salt  85.089 

Lime  carbonate .117 

Lime  sulphate .531 

Epsom  salt 8.145 

Chloride  of  magnesia 6. 118 


It  compares  with  other  saline  waters 
about  as  follows: 

Water.         Solid. 

Atlantic  Ocean 96.5    ....     3.5 

Mediterranean 96.2    ....  3.8 

Dead  Sea 76 24. 

Great  Salt  Lake 86.2    13.8 


And    in    specific    gravity,    distilled 
water  being  unitv: 


Ocean  water 1 .026 

Dead  Sea 1.116 

Great  Salt  Lake 1.107 


The  solid  matter  in  the  water  varies  between  spring  and  fall,  between  dry 
and  wet  seasons,  and  also  between  different  parts  of  the  lake,  for  nearly  all  the 
fresh  water  is  received  from  the  Wasatch  on  the  east.  It  is  the  opinion  of  salt 
makers  that  an  average  of  the  lake  at  its  present  stage  would  show  the  presence  of 
seventeen  per  cent  of  solid  matter. 

Salt  Lake  has  become  a  fashionable  bathing  resort.  In  the  long  sunny  days  of 
June,  July,  August,  and  September  the  water  becomes  deliciously  warm,  much 
warmer  in  fact  than  the  ocean,  and  this  pleasant  temperature  is  reached  a  month 
earlier  and  remains  a  month  later.  The  water  is  so  dense  that  one  is  sustained 
without  effort,  and  vigorous  constitutions  experience  no  inconvenience  from  remain- 
ing in  it  a  long  time.  A  more  delightful  and  healthy  exercise  than  buffeting  its 
waves  when  it  is  a  little  rough  can  hardly  be  imagined.  There  is  a  magnificent 
bathing  resort  on  the  Lake,  near  Salt  Lake  City. 

Saltair.  The  bathing  resort  is  at  Saltair,  on  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  about  eigh- 
teen miles  from  the  city.  During  the  season  bathing  trains  are  run  almost  hourly 
from  Salt  Lake  City  to  Saltair.  These  trains  enable  all  overland  passengers 
stopping  off  at  Salt  Lake  City  to  have  a  bath  in  the  great  dead  sea.  Here  is  located 
the  finest  bathing  pavillion  on  the  continent;  each  of  the  elegant  bath-rooms  is 
fitted  with  shower-bath,  stationary  water-bowls,  mirrors,  chairs,  incandescent 
electric  lights,  etc.,  making  Saltair  one  of  the  most  attractive  watering  places  on  the 
continent.  There  is  a  first-chss  restaurant;  careful  male  and  female  attendants 
and  a  silver-cornet  band  furnishes  music  day  and  evening,  and  one  of  the  finest  and 
largest  dancing  pavillions  in  the  world.  Professor  John  Muir,  the  celebrated  scientist 
and  litterateur,  speaks  as  follows  concerning  a  bath  in  the  Great  Salt  Lake: 

"Since  the  completion  of  the  trans-continental  railways  this  magnificent  lake 


TO   THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


73 


in  the  heart  of  the  continent  has  become  as  accessible  as  any  watering  place  on 
either  coast,  and  I  am  sure  that  thousands  of  trawlers,  sick  and  well,  would  throng 
to  its  shores  every  summer  were  its  merits  but  half  known."  Saltair  is  only  a 
few  minutes'  ride  from  the  city  and  has  good  hotel  accommodations,  and  then  besides 
the  bracing  waters,  the  climate  is  delightful.  The  mountains  rise  into  a  cool  sky, 
furrowed  with  canons  almost  Yoscmitic  in  grandeur  and  filled  with  a  glorious 
profusion  of  flowers  and  trees.  Lovers  of  science,  lovers  of  wilderness,  lovers  of 
pure  rest,  will  find  here  more  than  they  ever  may  hope  for. 

Park  City  Branch.     The    Park    City    line  of  the  Rio  Grande  system 
traverses  the  beautiful  Parley's  Canon.     Nearly  the  whole  distance  from  Salt  Lake 


OURAY. 


City  to  Park  City  is  a  succession  of  camping-out  and  shade  places  and  resorts  with 
the  railroad  and  the  mountain  stream  in  close  company.  At  Pharaoh's  Glen,  the 
Old  Arm-Chair,  Mountain  Dell,  and  Felt's  Resort,  there  are  cool,  cozy  nooks, 
Alpine  walks  and  climbs,  groves  of  quaking  asp,  birch,  maple,  and  pine,  rugged 
crags,  and  mossy  brooks  that  dance  down  over  a  hundred  tiny  waterfalls.  This 
is  an  ideal  outing  canon,  with  hunting  and  fishing  in  the  vicinity.  Cabins,  cottages, 
and  tents  for  rent;  guides  and  saddle-horses  for  hire.  Visitors  from  Salt  Lake 
City,  picnic  parties,  etc.,  may  leave  the  train  at  the  various  resort  points  at  which 
it  stops  and  select  their  own  camping-place  in  the  canon. 

Park  City.  At  the  head  of  the  canon  lies  Park  City,  one  of  the  greate  I 
gold,  silver,  and  lead  mining  camps  in  Utah  -an  extremely  interesting  point  to  visit. 
(Population,  4,000.  Elevation,  6,970  feet.  Distance  from  Denver,  771  miles.)  At 
Park  City  stage  can  be  taken  over  the  hills  to  Heber  Hot  1'ots  and  Provo  canon, 
returning  to  Salt  Lake  City  by  way  of  the  valley  of  the  Jordan.  Or  stage  may  be 
had  for  Brighton's,  ten  miles  distant,  a  summer  resort  9,000  feet  above  sea  Level. 
Brighton's  is  an  entrancing  spot  surrounded  by  Silver  Lake,  Lake  Mary,  and  Lake 
Blanche,  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Wasatch  Mountains.     It  has  the  combined  attrac- 


74 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


tions  of  mountain,  lake,  and  stream,  and  is  the  favorite  resort  for  Salt  Lake's  bon 
ton.  Good  hotel  and  cottages.  En  route  through  the  Canon  are  passed  Roper, 
Pharaoh's  Glen,  Old  Ann-Chair,  Altus,  and  Gogorza. 

Salt  Lake  to  Ogden.  From  Salt  Lake  to  Ogden  the  Denver  & 
Rio  Grande  system  traverses  a  narrow  plain.  On  the  west  lies  the  Great  Salt  Lake, 
while  to  the  north  and  east  rise  the  serrated  peaks  of  the  Wasatch  Mountains. 
This  region  is  under  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  Farms  reach  their  golden  or  green 
fields  over  its  length  and  breadth,  and  little  streams  run  in  bright  threads  out  of 
the  mountain  canons  down  across  the  meadows.  The  lake  is  in  full  view  of  the 
traveler  most  of  the  way,  and  is  a  never-ending  source  of  interest.  The  train  speeds 
on,  and  entering  an  amphitheater,  set  around  with  mountains,  reaches  Ogden,  the 
western  terminus  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  and  Union  Pacific  Railroads,  and 
the  eastern  end  of  the  Southern  Pacific — as  well  as  the  southern  outlet  of  the  Oregon 
Short  Line.  (Population,  25,000.  Distance  from  Denver,  77S  miles.  Elevation, 
4.293  feet.) 


*»    *»*-^-"'"  -'iJ"  ■■-Vr'-T^T"'-1  ■ ' 


QUEEN'S  CANON 


GRAND   CANON,    FROM    TO-RO-WASP. 


SALIDA   TO   GRAND   JUNCTION 


VIA   MARSHALL  PASS. 


T  Salida  the  tourist  holding  tickets  over  the  line  of  railroad  with 
which  this  book  treats,  may  have  the  choice  of  two  routes  to  Grand 
Junction.  Either  the  standard  gauge  line  via  Leadville  and  Glen- 
wood  Springs,  as  described  in  the  foregoing  pages,  or  the  narrow 
gauge  line  via  Marshall  Pass,  Gunnison,  and  Montrose.  At  Grand 
Junction  these  two  lines  unite  and  continue  on  to  Salt  Lake  City  and 
Ogden.     The  points  of  interest  en  route  are  as  follows: 

Poiielia.  This  little  town,  five  miles  west  of  Salida,  is  the  station  for 
Poncha  Hot  Springs  and  the  junction  of  the  Monarch  Branch  with  the  main  line. 
It  is  really  a  suburb  of  Salida,  and  is  connected  with  that  town  by  a  beautiful  boule- 
vard, which  is  one  cf  the  pleasantest  of  drives. 

Monarch  Branch.  From  Poncha  this  branch  runs  in  a  rich  mining 
countrv,  its  terminus  is  Monarch,  a  prosperous  mining  town,  235  miles  from  Denver 
and  15  miles  from  Poncha.  The  intermediate  stations  on  the  line  are  Maysville 
and  Garfield.     Mining  is  the  chief  industry. 

As  a  resort  for  invalids,  Poncha  Hot  Springs 
offers  superior  inducements,  especially  to  those 
suffering  from  chronic  troubles.  The  sick  get 
well  here  in  less  time  and  with  less  medicine  than 
in  any  other  sanitarium  outside  of  Colorado.  The 
return  to  health  here  is  made  radically  permanent. 
A  great  variety  of  diseases  are  cured  by  the  peculiar 
earth-heated  and  earth-medicated  waters  and  an 
intelligent  system  of  baths.  The  effect  on  the  sick 
is  wonderfully  beneficial,  correlating  a  specific 
energy  with  the  climate  and  pure  atmosphere,  and 
the  very  feeble  are  enabled  to  tolerate  much  hotter  baths  than  in  damper  or  lower 
altitudes,  and  secure  correspondingly  greater  results.  The  analysis  of  the  Poncha 
Hot  Springs  corresponds  almost  exactly  with  the  waters  of  the  Hot  Springs  in 
Arkansas.  The  temperature  of  the  various  Arkansas  Hot  Springs  varies  from 
900  to  1750,  that  of  the  Poncha  Springs  varies  from  900  to  1850  Fahrenheit.  The 
water  is  as  clear  as  crystal  and  perfectly  odorless  and  tasteless.  It  quenches  thirst 
whether  cold  or  hot,  and  does  not  disturb  the  stomach  in  any  manner.  There  are 
one  hundred  of  these  Hot  Springs,  all  flowing  from  a  great  field  of  tufa,  the  natural 
precipitation  of  ages,  loss  of  temperature  from  contact  with  the  atmosphere  and 
chemically  the  same  as  the  tufa  of  the  Arkansas  Hot  Springs.  The  springs  have 
a  capacity  large  enough  to  bathe  40,000  persons  daily.  The  following  is  an  analysis 
of  the  Poncha  Hot  Springs: 


Poncha  Springs. 

Hot  Springs, 

Watering  Place, 
and  Health  Resort. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
220  miles. 

Elevation,  7,480  feet. 


76 


,-ff 


ill 


*       »,  » 


7$  OVER    THE  RANGE 


Silicic  Acid 32.73 

Sesqui-oxide  of  Iron   1.27 

Alumina 5.20 

Lime 20.00 

Magnesia 74 

Chlorine 06 

Carbonic-Acid  Gas 22. so 


Organic  Matter    6.24 

Water 1.72 

Sulphuric  Acid 4.46 

Potash 2.0S 

Soda 1 .00 

Iodine 1 .  ^o 

Bromine 1 .50 

The  waters  are  said  to  be  a  sure  cure  for  rheumatism  and  all  blood  and  skin 
diseases,  and  catarrhal  affections. 

Poncha  Pass.  After  leaving  Poncha  Station  the  railroad  begins  to 
climb  the  mountains,  and  makes  its  entry  into  Marshall  Pass  by  way  of  Poncha 
Pass.  As  the  train  makes  a  long  curve  around  the  side  of  a  great  hill,  about  two 
miles  above  the  town  of  Poncha,  the  tourist  can  see  the  Hot  Springs  on  the  side 
of  the  opposite  hill  to  the  left,  a  deep  gorge  intervening,  at  the  bottom  of  which 
flows  a  clear  mountain  stream.  The  scenery  here  is  wild  and  beautiful,  and  the 
interest  increases  with  each  mile  of  the  ascent. 

Meai'S  Junction.  This  little  station,  226  miles  from  Denver,  in  the 
heart  of  the  hills,  is  the  junction  of  the  San  Luis  Valley  branch  with  the  main  line, 
and  from  this  point  the  real  ascent  of  Marshall  Pass  begins. 

San  Luis  Valley  Branch.  This  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande 
extends  from  Mears  Junction  to  Alamosa  where  it  connects  with  the  line  coming 
over  Yeta  Pass,  to  Silverton,  and  to  Creede,  as  described  elsewhere  in  this  volume 
En  route  the  first  station  of  importance  is 

Villa  Grove  This  town  is  situated  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
great  San  Luis  Valley,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  agricultural  country.  There  are 
many  good  mines  of  gold,  silver,  and  coal  in  the  near  vicinity.  Eight  miles  from 
Villa  Grove,  on  the  Orient  Branch,  is  located  the  famous  Orient  Iron  mine,  from 
which  is  annually  produced  about  100,000  tons  of  a  fine  quality  of  iron  ore.  This 
ore  is  smelted  and  formed  into  all  kinds  of  commercial  iron  and  steel  at  the  works 
of  the  Colorado  Fuel  &  Iron  Company  located  at  Minnequa,  near  Pueblo.  (Popu- 
lation, 500.     Distance  from  Denver,  245  miles.     Elevation,  7,972  feet.) 

Valley  View  Hot  Springs.  Five  miles  beyond  Villa  Grove  is  situated 
a  group  of  hot  springs  of  great  medicinal  value.  There  are  so  many  of  these 
springs  in  Colorado  that  all  of  them  have  never  been  fully  developed,  and  this 
particular  group  of  springs  has  not  been  given  the  attention  they  really  deserve. 

For  a  distance  of  fifty-two  miles  this  branch  extends  through  the  grand  San 
Luis  valley  in  an  absolutely  straight  line  with  a  gradual  descent  towards  the  south. 
Moffat,  Hooper,  and  Mosca  are  the  principal  stations  en  route  and  are  all  towns 
of  considerable  importance  as  entrepots  for  this  wonderful  agricultural  valley. 
There  are  a  number  of  small  lakes  in  the  valley,  insuring  water  in  abundant  quan- 
tities for  irrigating  purposes  and  constituting  a  home  for  myriads  of  wild  fowl. 
Hunters  from  Denver,  Pueblo,  Leadville,  Salida,  and  Alamosa,  and  in  fact  from 
all  parts  of  the  state,  visit  this  valley  each  season.  From  Moffat  station  a  branch 
line  extends  to  the  rich  mines  at  Crestone,  a  distance  of  seventeen  miles  from  Moffat 
and  279  miles  from  Denver.  Crestone  is  rapidly  becoming  one  of  Colorado's 
prominent  mining  towns.  (Population,  300.  Elevation,  788  feet.)  Alamosa, 
the  end  of  this  division,  will  be  found  fully  described  in  another  part  of  this 
book. 

Resuming  the  journey  to  the  westward,  after  leaving  Mears  Station  on  the 
main  line  the  road  advances  by  means  of  a  series  of  curves  absolutely  bewildering, 
following  the  convolutions  of  the  gulches.     As  the  altitude  grows  greater,  the  view 


MARSHALL  PASS. 


So 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


becomes  less  obstructed  by  mountain  sides,  and  the  eye  roams  over  miles  of  cone- 
shaped  summits.  The  timberless  tops  of  towering  ranges  show  him  that  he  is 
among  the  heights  and  in  a  region  familiar  with  the 
clouds.  Then  he  beholds,  stretching  away  to  the 
left,  the  most  perfect  of  all  the  Sierras.  The  sun- 
light falls  with  a  white,  transfiguring  radiance  upon 
the  snow-crowned  spires  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo 
Range.  Their  sharp  and  dazzling  pyramids, 
which  near  at  hand  are  clearly  defined,  extend 
to  the  southward  until  cloud,  and  sky  and  snowy 
peak  commingle  and  form  a  vague  and  bewilder- 
ing vision.  To  the  right,  towers  the  fire-scarred 
front  of  old  Ouray,  gloomy  and  grand,  solitary  and  forbidding.  Ouray  holds  the 
pass,  standing  sentinel  at  the  rocky  gateway  to  the  fertile  Gunnison.  Slowly  the 
steeps  are  conquered  until  at  last  the  train  halts  at  the  station,  upon  the  Summit  of 
Marshall  Pass.     The  awful  silence  of  the  storm-tossed  granite  ocean  lies  beneath. 


Marshall  Pass. 

Ralroading 
Among  the  Clouds. 

A  Marvel 
cf  Engineering  Skill. 

Elevation,  10,856  feet. 


CRESTED   BUTTE    MOUNTAIN   AND    LAKE. 


The  traveler  looks  down  upon  four  lines  of  road,  terrace  beyond  terrace,  the  last  so 
far  below  as  to  be  quite  indistinct  to  view.  These  are  only  loops  of  the  almost 
spiral  pathway  of  descent.  Wonder  at  the  triumphs  of  engineering  skill  is  strangely 
mingled  with  the  feelings  of  awe  and  admiration  at  the  stupendous  grandeur  of 
the  scene. 

Marshall  PaSS  Station  is  directly  on  the  summit  of  the  pass,  and 
the  track  is  inclosed  by  a  large  snow  shed.  Fine  views  can  be  obtained,  however, 
from  the  loop  holes,  from  either  end  of  the  shed  or  from  the  observatory,  erected 


82 


OVER    THE   RANGE 


above  the  station.  The  elevation  is  10,856  feet  above  the  sea.  The  descent  begins, 
and  the  road  winds  around  projecting  headlands,  on  the  verge  of  vast  precipices, 
threads  dark  recesses  where  patches  of  light  fall  through  leafy  canopies  upon  the 
green  slopes,  follows  the  windings  of  the  Tomichi,  and  later  courses  through  culti- 
vated meadows  dotted  with  hay-stacks  and  small  ranch  houses.  As  the  train  rolls 
swiftly  on,  a  backward  glance  gives  the  traveler  a  comprehensive  idea  of  the  vast 
heights  overcome  in  the  passage.  The  stations  between  Marshall  Pass  and  Gunni- 
son are  as  follows:  Shawano,  Chester,  Buxton,  Sargent,  Elko,  Crookton,  Doyle, 
Eonita,  Parlin,  and  Mounds.  These  stations  are  all  small,  but  situated  in  the  midst 
of  beautiful  scenery. 

The  Wailllita  Hot  Spring's  are  situated  ten  miles  from  Doyle.  The 
waters  have  long  been  famous  for  their  great  medicinal  qualities,  and  they  have 
been  frequented  by  those  suffering  from  ill  health  with  the  most  surprising  and 
gratifying  results.  First-class  hotel  and.  bathing  accommodations  have  been 
provided  for  guests.  A  daily  stage-line  is  operated  from  Doyle  connecting  with 
all  trains.  The  scenery  surrounding  the  Springs  is  unsurpassed,  and  no  pleasanter 
place  can  be  found  by  the  searcher  after  health  or  pleasure. 

Camp  Bowerman.  Four  miles  beyond  Waunita  is  located  the  most 
recently  discovered  gold  camp  of  Colorado.  Gold  was  discovered  here  in  July, 
1903,  in  very  rich  veins  and  what  a  few  months  ago  was  a  barren  and  uninhabited 
region,  is  now  a  lively  and  prosperous  mining  camp. 

Tomiclli  Meadows.  Beyond  Parlin  the  line  crosses  a  wide  expanse  of 
natural  meadowland,  through  which  meanders  the  beautiful  Tomichi  Creek. 

Gunnison  is  the  county-seat  of  Gunnison  County, 
and  is  situated  on  the  Gunnison  River.  From 
its  central  position  in  the  great  Gunnison  Valley, 
it  must  of  necessity  always  be  the  distributing 
point;  and  therefore  its  growth  is  assured  as 
being  coincident  with  that  of  the  country  in  which 
it  is  situated.  From  Gunnison  extends  a  branch 
of  the  Denver  c\:  Rio  Grande  Railroad  up  to  Crested 
Butte  and  Floresta,  situated  in  the  heart  of  a  rich 
gold  and  silver  mining  country,  and  being  the  center 
of  the  wonderful  anthracite  coal  measures  of  the  state.  The  town  is  beautifully 
situated  and  is  in  such  close  proximity  to  some  of  the  most  attractive  scenerv  in 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  that  it  has  become  a  favorite  objective  point  with  tourists. 
The  Gunnison  River  and  its  many  confluent  trout  brooks  offer  fine  sport  for  the  fish- 
erman, and  the  hills  abound  in  game.  The  La  Veta  Hotel,  the  eating  station  for 
passengers,  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  Colorado,  having  been  erected  at  an 
expense  of  $225,000.  It  is  elegantly  furnished,  and  offers  first-class  accommoda- 
tions for  the  tourists  who  may  wish  to  spend  a  few  days  or  weeks  here,  hunting  and 
fishing. 

Crested  Butte  Branch.  From  Gunnison  the  Crested  Butte  branch 
of  the  road  extends  to  the  northwest  to  Crested  Butte,  a  distance  of  twenty-eight 
miles.  The  line  extends  up  the  Gunnison  River,  which  swarms  with  trout  and  is 
an  extremely  picturesque  stream.  The  Elk  Mountains  are  in  plain  view,  and  add 
grandeur  to  the  scene.  The  intervening  stations  are  Almont,  at  which  place  is  a 
recently  erected  "Sportsman's  Lodge,"  Jack's  Cabin,  and  Glaciers. 

Crested  Butte.  This  pretty  village  is  situated  most  delightfully  among 
the  mountains,  one  castellated  peak  directly  opposite  the  town  conferring  the  name 


GUNNISON. 

Population,  2,500. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
288   miles. 

Elevation,  7,683  feet. 

Eating  Station. 


EAGLE  RIVER  CANON. 


84  OVER    THE  RANGE 

it  bears.  This  is  the  center  of  the  most  remarkable  coal  region  yet  discovered  in 
Colorado,  and  abounding  also  in  rich  mines  of  gold  and  silver.  At  Crested  Butte, 
just  back  of  the  village,  is  found  abundant  measures  of  exceedingly  bituminous 
coal,  which  is  mined  largely  and  made  into  coke.  A  few  miles  north  of  the  town 
at  Floresta  anthracite  coal,  equal  in  every  respect  to  the  best  found  in  Pennsylvania, 
is  taken  from  the  top  of  a  mountain,  and  shipped  all  over  Colorado  and  Utah. 
The  fishing  and  hunting  in  the  mountain  streams,  and  over  the  wooded  hills,  furnish 
abundant  sport  for  the  residents  and  tourists,  and  the  rides  and  drives  afford  an 
almost  infinite  variety.  (Population,  7,200.  Distance  from  Denver,  316  miles. 
Elevation,  8,878  feet.) 

Floresta.  Eleven  miles  beyond  Crested  Butte.  The  present  terminus  of 
this  branch,  and  the  shipping  point  for  the  anthracite  coal  mined  in  the  vicinity. 

Sapiliero  stands  at  the  eastern  entrance  to  the  Black  Canon,  and  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Gunnison  River.  The  town  was  named  after  a 
sub-chief  among  the  Utes,  who  was  regarded  by  the  whites  as  a  man  of  unusual 
intellectual  and  executive  ability.  In  addition  to  commanding  the  entrance  to 
the  canon,  Sapinero  is  the  junctional  point  for  the  Lake  City  extension  of  the  line. 
(Population,  100.     Distance  from  Denver,  314  miles.     Elevation,  7,255.) 

Lake  City  JB  ranch.  This  extension  is  thirty -six  miles  in  length,  and 
has  its  terminus  at  Lake  City.  The  line  turns  to  the  left  about  a  mile  west  of  Sapi- 
nero, and  passes  through  remarkable  Lake  Fork  canon  en  route. 

Lake  Fork  Canon.  This  canon  is  a  most  attractive  bit  of  scenery.  It 
is  noted  for  its  narrowness,  and  the  height  and  grandeur  of  its  walls.  For  thirteen 
miles  the  railroad  winds  through  this  tortuous  chasm,  the  walls  rising  on  each  hand 
to  a  height  varying  from  eight  hundred  to  thirteen  hundred  feet.  The  river  claims 
the  right  of  way  but  the  railroad  also  asserts  its  rights,  and  by  the  exercise  of  engi- 
neering skill  has  forced  a  passage.  In  many  places  the  solid  wall  of  granite  has  been 
blasted  away,  and  from  the  fallen  blocks  a  solid  embankment  constructed,  upon 
which  the  rails  have  been  laid.  The  Lake  Fork  is  a  rapid  and  tumultuous  stream, 
abounding  in  rapids  and  presenting  a  most  interesting,  varied,  and  exhilarating 
panorama  to  the  eye.  Emerging  from  the  canon  and  gaining  a  greater  altitude,  the 
view  is  one  of  magnificent  extent  and  grandeur.  Northward  the  peaks  of  the  Elk 
Range  form  a  long  line  of  well-separated  summits.  Northeastward,  the  vista 
between  nearer  hills  is  filled  with  the  clustered  heights  of  the  Continental  Divide 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross.  Just  below  them  confused 
elevations  show  where  Marshall  Pass  carries  its  lofty  avenue,  and  to  the  southward 
of  that  stretches  the  splendid,  snow-trimmed  array  of  the  Sar.gre  de  Cristo. 

The  enterprising  and  thriving  mining  town  of  Lake  City  stands  in  a  little  park 
at  the  junction  of  the  Lake  Fork  of  the  Gunnison 
River  with  Hensen  Creek,  both  typical  mountain 
streams.  A  substantial  and  pretty  town  has  been 
established.  Mines  of  marvelous  value  surround 
the  town,  and  give  life  and  energy  to  all  the 
commercial  and  speculative  projects  of  the  people. 
The  development  of  her  mining  resources  has  been 
carried  on  steadily,  and  the  shipments  of  precious 
ores  has  reached  a  very  heavy  tonnage.  It  will 
not  be  long  before  Lake  City's  mines  will  become 
as  famous  as  those  of  her  fortunate  sisters  in  the  wide  circle  of  the  San  Juan  silver 
region.     The   romantic   surroundings   of   this    pretty  town — the  lovely  lake,  San 


LAKE   CITY. 

Picturesque   Mining 

Town. 

Population,  1,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 

350  miles. 
Elevation,  8,686  feet. 


GATE  OF   LADORE. 


BLACK   CANON 

OF  THE 

GUNNISON. 

Height  of  Walls, 

2,500  feet. 

Length  of  Canon, 
14  miles. 


86  OVER    THE  RANGE 

Cristoval,  from  which  it  takes  its  characteristic  name,  the  grand  mountains  and 
the  grassy  parks — have  made  it  a  favorite  for  the  lovers  of  nature  in  the  past,  and 
will  still  attract  them  in  the  future.  This  is  a  paradise  for  a  sportsman.  Over 
these  rolling  uplands,  among  the  aspen  groves,  upon  the  foothills  and  along  the 
willow-bordered  creek  deer  now  throng,  and  even  an  occasional  elk  and  antelope 
are  to  be  seen.  In  the  rocky  fastnesses  the  bear  and  panther  find  refuge,  and  every 
little  park  is  enlivened  by  the  flitting  forms  of  timid  hares  and  the  whirring  escape 
of  the  grouse  disturbed  by  our  passing. 

Beyond  Gunnison,  the  railway  traverses  the 
valley  of  the  same  name,  following  the  river  closely 
and  encountering  nothing  but  meadows  and  low, 
grayish  cliffs.  The  Gunnison  River  abounds  in  trout, 
and  is  a  great  resort  for  the  disciples  of  Isaac  Walton. 
Soon,  however,  the  channel,  which  the  stream 
has  worn,  becomes  narrower.  The  cliffs  grow 
higher  and  steeper,  the  vegetation  is  less  abundant, 
and  suddenly  the  sunlight  is  cut  off  by  broken  sum- 
mits, and  directly  after  leaving  Sapinero,  the  Black 
Canon  holds  us  fast  in  its  embrace.  This  gorge  is 
grander,  deeper,  darker,  and  yet  more  beautiful  than 
the  one  we  have  so  lately  penetrated.  It  is  twite  as  long,  has  more  verdure,  and, 
although  the  walls  are  dark  hued  enough  to  give  the  place  its  name,  still  they  are 
of  red  sandstone  in  many  places,  and  from  their  crevices  and  on  their  tops,  shrubs, 
cedars,  and  pinons  grow  in  rich  abundance.  The  river  has  a  deep,  seagreen  color, 
and  is  followed  to  Cimarron  Creek,  up  which  the  road  continues,  still  through  rockv 
depths,  to  open  country  beyond.  The  Black  Canon  never  tires,  never  becomes 
commonplace. 

Cllipeta  Falls  starts  from  a  dizzy  height,  is  dashed  into  fragments  by 
lower  terraces,  and,  tossed  by  the  winds,  reaches  the  river  in  fine  white  spray;  there 
another  cataract  leaps  clear  of  the  walls,  and  thunders  unbroken  upon  the  ground 
beside  us.  In  the  cliffs  are  smaller  streams  which  trickle  down  and  are  lost  in  the 
river  below.  At  times  the  canon  narrows,  and  is  full  of  sharp  curves,  but  again 
has  long  wide  stretches,  which  enable  one  to  study  the  steep  crags  that  lower  heaven- 
ward two  or  three  thousand  feet. 

Clirecanti  Needle,  the  most  abrupt  and  isolated  of  these  pinnacles  has 
all  the  grace  and  symmetry  of  a  Cleopatra  obelisk.  It  is  red-hued  from  point  to 
base,  and  stands  like  a  grim  sentinel,  rising  to  an  elevation  of  1,500  feet  above  the 
track,  watchful  of  the  canon's  solitudes.  At  the  junction  of  the  Gunnison  and 
the  Cimarron  a  bridge  spans  the  gorge,  from  which  the  beauties  of  the  canon  are 
seen  at  their  best.  Somber  shades  prevail;  the  stream  fills  the  space  with  its  heavy 
roar,  and  the'  sunlight  falls  upon  the  topmost  pines,  but  never  reaches  clown  the 
dark  red  walls.  Huge  boulders  lie  scattered  about;  fitful  winds  sweep  down  the 
deep  clefts;  Nature  has  created  everything  on  a  grand  scale;  detail  is  supplanted 
by  magnificence,  and  the  place  is  one  appealing  to  our  deepest  feelings.  It  greets 
us  as  a  thing  of  beaut}-,  and  will  remain  in  our  memory  a  joy  forever.  Long  ago 
the  Indians  of  this  region  built  their  council  fires  here.  By  secret  paths,  always 
guarded,  they  gained  these  fastnesses,  and  held  their  grave  and  somber  meetings. 
The  firelight  danced  across  their  swarthy  faces  to  the  cliffs  encircling  them.  The 
red  glow  lit  up  with  Rembrandt  tints  the  massive  walls,  the  surging  streams  and 
clinging  vines.     They  may  not  have  known  the  place  had  beauties,  but  they  realized 


88  OVER   THE  RANGE 

its  isolation,  and  fearing  nothing  in  their  safe  retreat,  spoke  boldly  of  their 
plans. 

Cimarron.  Is  a  most  attractive  little  station,  nestled  among  the  gulches 
on  the  banks  of  the  sparkling  Cimarron  Creek.  Sportsmen  make  headquarters 
at  Cimarron,  for  the  hills  are  full  of  game  and  the  streams  abound  in  trout. 
(Population,  200.     Distance  from  Denver,  329  miles.     Elevation,  6,906  feet.) 

Cimarron  Canon.  Where  Cimarron  Creek  empties  into  the  Gunnison 
through  a  short  canon  the  road  leaves  Black  Canon  which  continues  on  with  the 
larger  stream,  heightening  in  awfulness.     Down  there  the  fall  of  the  river  increases 


ASCENDING   PIKE'S   PEAK. 

so  rapidly  that  to  follow  it  to  the  end,  the  railroad  would  emerge  a  thousand  feet 
below  the  valley  which  it  seeks,  if  a  practicable  grade  should  be  kept,  so  the  engineers 
have  turned  the  road  out  to  the  valley  through  Cimarron  Canon,  and  in  four  or 
five  miles  a  verdureless  expanse  is  reached,  and  for  a  short  time  the  road  traverses 
a  region  which  is  picturesque  in  its  poverty  and  desolation;  and  in  the  summer  the 
distant  and  sun-heated  buttes,  with  the  arid  plains  between,  remind  the  traveler  of 
the  Wastes  of  Arabia  Petra. 

Cerro  Summit  is  reached  directly  after 
emerging  from  Cimarron  Canon.  From  here  the 
Uncompahgre  Valley,  its  river,  and  the  distant,  pic- 
turesque peaks  of  the  San  Juan  are  within  full  sight 
of  the  traveler.  Descending  to  the  valley  and  follow- 
ing the  river  past  Montrose,  the  Gunnison  is  again 
encountered  at  Delta. 

The  town  of  Montrose  can  take  just  pride  in 
the  grandeur  of  its  mountain  view.  Situated  in  the 
Uncompahgre  Valley,  Montrose  is  almost  surrounded  by  mountains.  The  San 
Juan    Mountains   tower   into   the   heavens  to   the  south,   captained   by   Mounts 


MONTROSE. 

Population,  2,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
351  miles. 

Elevation,  5,811  feet. 


9° 


OVER    THE   RANGE 


Sneffles  and  Uncompahgre,  both  over  fourteen  thousand  feet  high.  Along  the 
western  horizon  trend  the  Uncompahgre  Peaks  to  where  the  Dolores  joins  the 
Grand  River,  a  distance  of  over  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  The  Uncompahgre 
Valley  is  fertile,  and  along  the  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Rail- 
road, from  Montrose  to  Ouray  and  Delta,  is  under  high  state  of  cultivation. 
The  cereals,  fruit,  and  vegetables,  together  with  forage  plants,  flourish  here 
in  the  greatest  luxuriance.  Here  was  the  Indian  reservation,  and  here  lived 
(  )uray,  the  friend  of  the  white  man.  It  is  only  a  few  years  since  the  good 
chief  died,  an  I  his  farm  and  buildings  are  still  pointed  out  to  the  traveler, 
on    the    line    to    the    town    of    Ouray,    about    two    miles    south    of    Montrose. 


TROUT   LAKE. 


The  land  in  the  valley  surrounding  Montrose  is  gradually  being  brought 
under  cultivation.  Irrigating  canals  have  been  constructed,  and  the  rich  soil 
responds  generouslv  to  the  demands  of  the  farmer.  The  United  States  govern- 
ment has  undertaken  the  construction  of  a  tunnel,  five  miles  in  length,  through  the 
mountains  to  tap  the  Gunnison  River,  and  thereby  provide  a  never  failing  supply 
of  water  for  irrigating  this  wonderful  valley.  Mining  and  pastoral  industries,  par- 
ticularly the  raising  of  fruits,  also  contribute  greatly  to  the  success  of  Montrose. 
There  can  be  found  excellent  hunting  and  fishing  in  the  vicinity. 

Delta  is  twenty-one  miles  from  Montrose,  and  is  the  county-seat  of  Delta 
County.  It  is  situated  in  the  delta  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Uncompahgre 
and  the  Gunnison  rivers.  The  town  is  situated  in  the  heart  of  the  most  prolific 
fruit-raising  region  of  the  state.  There  are  located  here  several  fruit  canneries,  and 
the  industry  is  making  this  valley  and  town  among  the  richest  and  most  noted 
in  the  state.  Delta  is  the  junction  point  with  the  North  Fork  Branch  to  Hotchkiss 
and  Paonia.  It  is  destined  to  become  in  time,  a  considerable  business  center. 
(Population,  1,200.     Distance  from  Denver,  373  miles.     Elevation,  4,980  feet.) 

North  Fork  Branch.  In  1902  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  constructed  a 
branch  line  designated  as  above,  extending  in  a  northeasterly  direction  from  Delta 


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92  OVER    THE  RANGE 

a  distance  of  forty-four  miles  through  the  remarkably  rich  fruit  and  agricultural 
country  adjacent  to  the  North  Fork  of  the  Gunnison  River  and  following  this  stream 
amid  a  profusion  of  magnificent  scenery  through  the  towns  of  Hotchkiss  and  Paonia. 

Hotcllkiss.  The  town  of  Hotchkiss,  incorporated  in  1900,  has  a  thrifty  popu- 
lation of  about  500.  Situated  on  the  north  fork  of  the  Gunnison  near  the  mouth 
of  Leroux  Creek  and  on  the  "North  Fork  Branch"  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande, 
its  location  is  such  that  it  is  the  agricultural  center  of  the  eastern  portion  of  the 
county.  It  supports  two  banks  and  half  a  dozen  mercantile  houses,  all  of  which 
do  a  good  business.  The  Fire  Mountain  Canal,  with  a  capacity  of  125  cubic  feet 
of  water,  affording  sufficient  to  reclaim  6,000  acres  of  land  which  is  tributary  to 
Hotchkiss,  will  greatly  add  to  its  importance.  The  town  is  regularly  laid  out  and 
has  a  number  of  substantial  brick  structures.  (Population,  500.  Elevation,  5,369 
feet.     Distance  from  Denver,  398  miles.) 

Paonia.  Paonia  is  on  the  "North  Fork  Branch"  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande, 
near  the  eastern  line  of  Delta  County.  It  is  in  the  oldest  fruit  region  of  the  Western 
Slope,  and  sustains  a  well-deserved  reputation  in  that  line.  The  town  has  fine 
churches  and  school  houses,  two  banks,  a  system  of  water  works,  and  well-kept 
streets  and  walks.  (Population,  359.  Elevation,  5,689  feet.  Distance  from  Den- 
ver, 406  miles.) 

Cedaredge,  Cory,  Crawford,  and  Eckert  are  hamlets  adjacent  to  the  "North 
Fork  Branch"  with  from  50  to  100  population.  Each  is  the  center  of  a  prosperous 
community. 

Between  Delta  and  Grand  Junction  there  are  a  number  of  small  stations  which 
will  not  interest  the  traveler,  but  the  scenery  through  which  the  railroad  passes 
(while  it  is  not  especially  startling)  will  interest  him.  After  passing  Delta  the  road 
crosses  the  Uncompahgre  and  follows  the  west  bank  of  the  Gunnison  (the  same 
river  that  was  left  at  Cimarron,  forty-four  miles  behind  us).  In  about  five  miles 
we  cross  to  the  east  bank  of  the  Gunnison  and  roll  along  beneath  cliffs  which  tower 
on  our  right  above  the  train,  leaving  but  little  room  between  rocks  and  river.  At 
Bridgeport  the  cars  plunge  into  the  Bridgeport  Tunnel,  2,256  feet  in  length,  one  of 
the  longest  tunnels  on  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  Shortly  an  iron  bridge, 
over  a  fine  stream  (the  Grand  River)  is  passed,  and  we  find  ourselves  at  the  junction 
of  the  Gunnison  with  the  Grand  River;  and  of  the  two  main  lines  of  the  Denver 
&  Rio  Grande  Railroad  with  its  western  division,  the  Rio  Grande  Western  Railway. 


PUEBLO   TO   ALAMOSA. 


ROM  Pueblo  to  Cuchara  Junction,  a  distance  of  50  miles,  the  rail- 
road extends  to  the  southward  across  the  plains  which  stretch  in 
one  vast  unbroken  expanse  to  the  eastern  horizon,  while  to  the  west 
lies  the  Greenhorn  Range  with  its  intervening  foothills. 

Spanish  Peaks.  To  the  south  rise  the  famed  Spanish 
Peaks,  springing  directly  from  the  plains,  remarkable  for  their 
symmetry  of  outline,  and  reaching  an  altitude  respectively  of  13,620  and  12,720 
feet.  The  Indians,  with  a  touch  of  instinctive  poetry,  named  these  beautiful 
mountains  "Wahatoya,"  or  twin  breasts.  As  a  matter  of  orthographical  interest, 
the  reader  may  be  pleased  to  know  that  the  Indian  spelling  of  the  word  is  as  follows: 
"Huacjatollas!" 

Trinidad  Branch.  From  Cuchara  Junction,  one  line  of  the  mad  ex- 
tends in  a  southern  direction  to  Trinidad,  the  largest  city  in  Southern  Colorado, 
and  the  center  of  the  famous  coal  measures  of  El  Moro. 

This  branch  of  the  road  does  not  pass  directly  through  grand  scenery,  as  it 
extends  to  the  southward  across  the  plains,  and  to  the  east  of  the  mountains;  but 
the  line  is  of  great  commercial  importance,  as  by  its  connections  at  Trinidad  it 
affords  a  direct  through  route  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Locally,  also,  it  is  of  especial 
importance  as  El  Moro  and  Trinidad  are  in  the  heart  of  one  of  the  greatest  coal 
and  coke  regions  in  the  west,  and  the  agricultural  and  pastoral  industries  of  the 
plains  are  of  large  proportions.  From  Cuchara  Junction  the  stations  occur  in  the 
following  order:  Tuna,  Rouse  Junction,  Santa  Clara,  Boaz,  Apishapa,  Barnes, 
Chicosa,  and  El  Moro. 

El  Moro  is  worthy  of  special  mention  because  of  its  extensive  coal  mines 
and  coking  ovens;  the  latter  are  500  in  number,  and  the  greatest  in  the  State.  The 
town  derives  its  name  from  the  great  butte  (El  Moro)  which  lowers  a  hove  it,  pre- 
senting a  very  striking  object  to  the  view.  (Population,  500.  Distance  from 
Denver,  206  miles.     Elevation,  5,879  feet.) 

This  is  the  metropolis  of  southeastern  Colo- 
rado, and  the  terminus  of  this  branch  of  the  Denver 
&  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  Trinidad  is  the  trade 
and  money  center  for  an  immense  territory,  includ- 
ing portions  of  northern  Texas,  southern  Colorado, 
and  northern  New  Mexico.  In  natural  resources, 
Trinidad  is  exceedingly  rich,  being  the  center  of 
the  largest  coal  belt  in  the  world,  and  the  supply 
depot  for  most  of  the  coke  used  in  the'  Great  West. 
In  addition  to  coal  and  coke  in  the  immediate 
vicinity,  iron  exists  in  unlimited  quantities.  The 
supply  of  gypsum,  granite,  alum,  fire-clay,  silica,  grit,  or  grindstone,  limestone, 
and  the  finest  of  building  stone  is  absolutely  inexhaustible.  Trinidad,  from  the 
natural  deposit  alone,  must  of  necessity  become  a  manufacturing  center   of    vast 

93 


TRINIDAD. 

Commercial  and  Manu= 
facturing  City. 

Population,  8,ooo. 

Elevation,  5,994  feet. 

Distance   from    Denver, 
210  miles. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  95 

importance,  and  has  already  taken  advanced  steps  in  this  regard.  The  manu- 
facture of  cement,  mineral  paint,  lime,  and  plaster  (if  pans,  are  all  important  indus- 
tries, while  the  production  of  building  brick  is  very  large  in  its  proportions.  Fire- 
brick and  silica  brick  are  an  additional  industry.  In  and  around  Trinidad  no 
less  than  five  thousand  laborers  are  now  employed,  and  this  large  and  daily  in<  nos- 
ing number  of  men  spend  their  money  in  Trinidad.  The  city  has  water  works, 
gas  works,  electric  light,  street  cars,  and  other  metropolitan  improvements.  The 
schools  and  churches  are  very  superior,  while  the  business  houses  and  residences 
are  a  credit  to  the  city.  Its  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea  Insures  a  delightful 
climate,  free  from  malaria  and  other  poisons  common  to  lower  altitudes,  while 
the  scenic  surroundings  are  unsurpassed,  Raton  Peak  and  the  distant  range  adding 
their  grandeur  to  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  Trinidad  is  a  railroad  center,  with 
three  great  trunk  lines  in  operation;  is  the  most  important  wool  center  in  Colorado, 
being  the  original  market  for  3,000,000  pounds,  and  is  also  a  great  cattle  center  and, 
for  that  reason,  the  largest  hide  and  pelt  receiving  point  in  the  State.  Resuming 
the  journey  to  Alamosa,  the  tourist  returns  to 

Cueliara  Junction.  A  small  town  at  the  junction  of  the  Xew  Mexico 
and  Trinidad  extensions  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The  supporting 
industries  are  pastoral  and  agricultural  pursuits.  (Population,  200.  Distance  fn  mi 
Denver,  169  miles.     Elevation,  5,942  feet.) 

Walsenburg".  A  flourishing  town  doing  a  large  business,  both  at  home 
and  abroad.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  fine  pastoral  country,  and  also  derives  revenue 
from  agriculture.  Coal  is  mined  near  here  in  large  quantities.  (Population, 
1,000.     Distance  from  Denver,  175  miles.     Elevation,  6,187  feet.) 

La  Veta.  A  prosperous  village  surrounded  by  a  pastoral  country  and  in 
the  midst  of  most  beautiful  scenery,  being  near  the  foothills  of  La  Veta  Mountain 
and  the  famous  pass  known  by  the  same  name.  The  Spanish  Peaks  are  also  in 
plain  view  to  the  east.  (Population,  500.  Distance  from  Denver,  190  miles. 
Elevation,  7,024  feet.) 

During  the  summer  of  1S99  the  line  from 
Cuchara  Junction  via  Veta  Pass  to  Alamosa  was 
changed  from  narrow  to  standard  gauge,  and  in 
seeking  easier  grades  and  curves  the  famous  "  Veta 
Pass"  and  "Muleshoe  Curve"  were  abandoned  and 
an  entirely  new  route  followed  over  the  range.  The 
new  pass  is  called  La  Veta  Pass,  and  the  scenery 
if  possible,  is  superior  to  that  of  the  old  route. 

The  road  climbs  in  tortuous  windings  around  the 
foot  of  gigantic  hills  covered  with  virgin  forests  of  spruce  and  pint-. 

The  view  to  the  eastward  is  one  of  great  extent  and  magnificent  e.  The  plains 
stretch  onward  to  the  dim  horizon  line  like  a  gently  undulating  ocean,  from  which 
rises  the  twin  cones  of  the  Wahatoya,  strangely  fascinating  in  their  symmetrical 
beauty. 

Veta  Mountain  is  to  the  right,  as  the  ascent  of  the  pass  is  made,  and  rises  with 
smooth  sides  and  splintered  pinnacles  to  a  height  of  11,176  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  stupendous  proportions  of  this  mountain,  the  illimitable  expanse  of  the 
plains  present  a  picture  upon  which  it  is  a  never-ceasing  delight  for  tin-  eye  to 
dwell. 

The  train  rolls  steadily  forward  on  its  winding  course,  at  last  reaching  the 
apex,  glides  into  the  timber  and  halts  at  the  summit,  9,242  feet  above  the  level  of 


LA  VETA  PASS. 

Elevation,  9,242  feet. 
Maximum  Grade,  211 

feet  to  the  mile. 

Distance  Across  Pass, 

20  miles. 


96 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


the  distant  sea.  The  downward  journey  is  past  Sierra  Blanca  and  Old  Fort  Gar- 
land and  through  that  pastoral  and  picturesque  park  known  as  San  Luis  Valley, 
and  rejoins  the  old  roadbed  at  Wagon  Creek  Junction  and  continues  through  the 
fertile  valley  to  Alamosa. 

The  changing  of  the  gauge  of  this  piece  of  road  has  largely  increased  the  business 
and  shipments  of  the  San  Luis  Valley,  and  enables  the  farmers  and  grain  dealers  to 
ship  the  wheat  and  other  grains  grown  in  the  valley  to  the  eastern  markets  in  un- 
broken car-load  lots. 

The  line  has  also  been  made  standard  gauge  to  Creede,  the  famous  gold  and 
silver  camp  at  the  terminus  of  the  Creede  branch;  and  to  Antonito,  twenty-eight 
miles  south  of  Alamosa,  the  junction  point  of  the  main  line  and  the  Santa  Fc  branch. 


BAKER'S  PARK,   SULTAN   MOUNTAIN 


Wagon  Creek  Junction.  At  Wagon  Creek  Junction,  one  can  say  that 
the  descent  of  La  Veta  Pass  has  been  accomplished,  although  it  is  still  down  grade 
as  far  as  Alamosa.  This  station  is  situated  on  the  eastern  border  of  the  San  Luis 
Valley  and  at  the  western  extremity  of  La  Veta  Pass.  Good  hunting  and  fishing 
can  be  found  in  the  neighboring  foothills.  (Population,  nominal.  Distance 
from  Denver,  217  miles.     Elevation,  8,271  feet.) 

Garland.  This  town  was  formerly  known  as  Fort  Garland,  and  was 
a  United  States  miliatry  post.  Sierra  Blanca,  elevation  14,483  feet,  the  highest 
mountain  in  the  United  States  with  one  exception,  is  seventeen  miles  distant.  Good 
trout  fishing  and  shooting  can  be  found  in  the  adjacent  foothills.  Garland's  tribu- 
tary industries  are  agriculture  and  stock  raising.  (Population,  200.  Distance 
from  Denver,  228  miles.     Elevation,  7,936  feet.) 

Sierra  Blanca  is  the  monarch  of  the  Rocky  Range,  and  is  characterized  by 
the  peculiarity  of    a  triple  peak.      The  mountain  rises  directly  from  the  plain 


SIERRA  BLANCA. 

Highest  Mountain 

of 

The  Rocky  Range. 

Elevation, 

14,483  feet. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  97 

to    the   stupendous   height   of    14,483    Feet,    ovei    two   miles  and    thr«   -fifths  of 
sheer   ascent.      A  magnificent  view  of  this  mountain  is  obtained  from  the  cars 

as  soon  as  the  descenl  from  La  Veta  Pass  into  the 
San  Luis  Valley  has  been  made.  Surely  it  is 
worth  a  journey  across  the  continent  to  obtain  a 
view  of  such  a  mountain'  Although  a  pari  of  the 
range,  ii  stands  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  like'  a 
monarch  taking  precedence  of  a  lordly  retinue. 
Two-thirds  ol  its  height  is  above  timber-line,  ban 
and  desolate,  and  except  foi  a  month  or  two  of 
mid-summer,  dazzling  white  with  snow,  while  in 
its  abysmal  gorges  it  holds  eternal  reservoirs  of  ice. 

"O,  sacred  mount  with  kingly  crest 
Through  tideless  ether  reaching, 
The  earth  world  kneels  to  hear  the  prayer 

Thy  dusky  slopes  are  teaching. 
With  mystic  glow  on  sunset  eyes 
All  trembling  lie  thy  blood-red  eaves, 
Their  silken  veins  with  gold  inwrought, 
Oh,  glorious  is  thy  world-wide  thought." 

The  lower  slopes  of  Lhe  mountain  are  clad  in  vast  forests  of  pine  and  hemlock, 
while  its  grand  triad  of  gray  granite  peaks  lift  into  the  sky  their  sharp  pyramidal 
pinnacles,  splintered  and  furrowed  by  the  storm-compelling  and  omnipotent  hand 
of  the  Almighty.  To  the  north  and  south,  for  a  distance  of  nearly  two  hundred 
miles,  it  is  flanked  by  the  serrated  crests  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range,  the  whole 
forming  a  panorama  of  unexampled  grandeur  and  beauty. 

Sail  LuiS  Valley.  This  great  and  fertile  valley  is  located  in  south- 
ern Colorado,  bordering  New  Mexico,  and  is  drained  by  the  Rio  Grande,  one  of 
the  largest  of  Colorado's  rivers,  into  which  flows  from  the  lofty  mountain  ranges 
surrounding  the  valley,  almost  numberless  little  mountain  streams.  This  valley, 
which  was  once  the  bottom  of  a  vast  mountain  lake,  contains  fully  10,000  square 
miles — equal  to  the  entire  area  of  Massachusetts.  The  soil  is  alluvial,  from  six 
to  fifteen  feet  deep,  and  the  surface  is  naturally  well  adapted  for  irrigation,  which 
the  rivers  and  streams  in  the  valley  are  abundantly  capable  of  providing.  The 
park,  or  valley,  as  it  is  more  frequently  called,  is  from  7,000  to  7, ,}oo  feet  above 
sea  level.  This  elevation  insures  a  light,  pure  atmosphere,  free  from  all  malarial 
conditions,  and  especially  favorable  for  those  disposed  to  pulmonary  affections. 
The  climate  is  cool  in  the  summer,  and  not  severe  in  the  winter — scarcely  ever 
more  than  an  occasional  snowfall  of  two  or  three  inches  in  the  valley.  Too  much 
in  praise  of  the  attractions  and  beauty  of  the  climate  of  the  San  Luis  Valley  cannot 
be  said.  The  grand  chain  of  mountains,  which  entirely  surround  the  park,  present 
scenery  unsurpassed  in  the  world.  Spring  wheat  will  yield  from  thirty  to  fifty 
bushels  to  the  acre,  oats  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  bushels,  peas  from  thirty  to  forty 
bushels,  potatoes  from  two  hundred  to  three  hundred  bushels  to  the  acre;  beans, 
cabbage,  all  kinds  of  root  crops,  including  the  sugar  beet,  are  unexcelled  anywhere. 
Hops  do  well;  tomatoes  and  melons  are  grown,  but  with  some  effort.  Corn,  in 
consequence  of  the  elevation,  except  for  garden  purposes,  does  not  pay.  Alfalfa 
— the  clover  of  the  mountains — docs  well,  yielding  from  four  to  six  tons  in  two 
cuttings.  Common  red  clover,  timothy  and  red  top  do  well.  The  native  grasses, 
by  irrigation,  yield  two  tons  per  acre.     All  kinds  of  small  fruit  do  exceedingly  well. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   (.W'/'/L  99 

Apples  and  cherries  dc  well,  plums  and  pears  may,  but  peaches  cannot  be  grown 

as  well  as  on  the  western  .slope.  Surrounding  the  valley,  embracing  the  foothills 
and  lower  mountain  ranges,  is  a  range  covering  millions  of  aires,  where  cattle, 
horses,  and  sheep  can  feed  for  more  than  nine  months  in  the  year.  The  g] 
are  more  abundant  and  nutritious  than  upon  the  lower  elevations.  The  stock 
so  grazed  upon  these  free  ranges  in  the  summer  and  fed  upon  the  home  farms  in 
the  valley  in  the  winter,  can  be  handled  without  hazard,  and  with  certainty  of 
profitable  return  to  the  farmer  and  large  ranchmen. 

This    is    one    of    the    most    considerable    towns 


ALAMOSA. 

Junctional  City. 

Eating  Station. 

Population,  1,500. 

Distance  from  Denver, 

Via  La  Veta  Pass, 

252  miles. 

Via  Salida,  300  miles. 

Elevation,  7,546  feet. 


of  the  San  Luis  Valley.  It  is  situated  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Rio  Grande  river,  and  at  the  junction 
of  the  New  Mexico.  San  Luis,  and  Creede  branches 
of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The 
resources  of  the  San  Luis  Valley  have  been  described 
above,  and  it  goes  without  saying  that  these  resources 
are  naturally  tributary  to  the  welfare  of  Alamosa. 

The  town  is  well  supplied  with  stores  of  all 
kinds,  which  carry  large  stocks  of  goods.  Great 
quantities  of  lumber,  hay,  and  grain,  and  farm 
produce  generally,  are  shipped  from  this  station,  which  also  commands  a  large 
local  trade.  Within  a  short  distance  of  the  town  a  natural  gas  supply  has  been 
discovered,  which  only  needs  adequate  development  to  make  it  an  element  of  great 
prosperity  to  the  city.  There  are,  also,  a  large  number  of  ever-flowing  artesian 
wells  near  the  city,  which  insure  a  never-failing  source  of  pure  water.  The  eating 
house  at  Alamosa,  the  Victoria  Hotel,  furnishes  one  of  the  best  meals  to  be  obtained 
anywhere,  and  has  a  wide-spread  and  well-deserved  reputation.  The  scenery 
surrounding  the  town  is  grand,  and  the  near  proximity  of  the  river  makes  it  a 
favorite  resort  for  sportsmen. 

Creede  Branch.  From  Alamosa  a  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  extends  up  the  valley  a  distance  of  seventy  miles  to  the  great  hot  springs 
at  Wagon  "Wheel  Gap,  and  the  famous  gold  and  silver  mining  camp  of  Creede.  The 
line  passes  through  an  exceedingly  fertile  agricultural  country  bang  on  both  sides 
of  the  Rio  Grande,  and  irrigated  by  the  great  canals  taken  out  from  the  river.  In 
the  proper  season  of  the  year  thousands  of  acres  of  wheat  and  oats,  alfalfa,  ami 
other  farm  produce  can  be  seen  growing  in  the  greatest  luxuriance  on  both  sides  of 
the  track. 

Moilte  "Vista,  This  nourishing  town  is  an  example  of  rapid  growth  and  a 
proof  of  the  self-sustaining  character  of  the  country.  The  surrounding  country 
is  full  of  coal,  oil,  and  gas.  Very  rich  mines  are  being  developed  (ore  running  from 
$1,000  to  $2,000  per  ton)  in  the  mountains  southwest  of  Monte  Vista,  which  is 
located  in  the  midst  of  300,000  acres  of  the  richest  irrigable  land  with  abundance 
of  water  to  supply  it.  Monte  Vista  is  a  new,  growing,  enterprising  prohibition 
town,  and  has  a  superior  class  of  citizens.  It  is  rapidly  becoming  an  extra  desirable 
residence  locality.  It  has  a  first-class  roller-process  flouring  mill,  fifteen  stores, 
two  banks,  a  planing  mill,  three  lumber  yards,  three  weekly  papers,  three  livery 
stables,  large  public  library,  an  $8,000  school-house,  a  $75,000  hotel,  seven  church 
organizations,  a  secular  Sunday  society,  secret  societies,  cornet  band,  etc.  In  the 
vicinity  is  one  farm  of  7,000  and  another  of  4,000  acres.  The  Colorado  home  for 
Disabled  Volunteer  Soldiers  and  Sailors  is  located  here.  Some  two  hundred  vet- 
erans occupy  the  magnificent  building  and  surrounding  cottages,  enjoying,  in  their 


IOO 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


declining  years,  a  well-earned  respite  from  the  turmoil  of  war.  (Population,  1,200. 
Distance  from  Denver,  269  miles.     Elevation,  7,665  feet.) 

Del  Noi'te.  This  is  the  oldest  town  in  what  is  known  as  the  San  Juan 
country,  and  is  the  county-seat  of  Rio  Grande  County.  The  town  is  so  situated 
as  to  be  on  the  line  between  the  agricultural  and  mining  sections.  To  the  north 
and  east  of  the  town  are  the  rich  and  rapidly  settling  agricultural  and  pastoral 
lands  of  the  San  Luis  Valley,  to  the  south  and  west  are  the  great  mines  of  San  Juan. 
Del  Norte  is  beautifully  situated  in  a  basin  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  sheltered 
from  the  blasts  of  winter  and  having  the  most  delightful  weather  in  summer.  The 
Rio  Grande  flows  through  the  edge  of  the  Del  Norte  town  site,  and  offers  to  manu- 


CHIPETA  FALLS. 


facturing  interests  exceptionally  tine  water  power.  Del  Norte  has  some  excellent 
business  and  dwelling  houses,  fine  public  school  buildings,  two  good  church  build- 
ings— above  the  average — the  Presbyterian  College  of  the  Southwest  (a  staunch 
educational  institution),  a  line  flouring  mill  of  the  latest  roller  process,  a  large 
brewery  using  home-grown  barley,  two  banks,  court-house  costing  $30,000,  the 
United  States  land  office,  where  all  business  regarding  lands  in  this  district  must 
be  transacted,  and  countless  other  enterprises  that  cannot  be  mentioned  here.  On 
Lookout  Mountain,  600  feet  above  the  town,  is  mounted  a  large  telescope,  to  be 
used  in  connection  with  the  Presbyterian  College  of  the  Southwest.  The  view 
from  the  Lookout  observatory  is  grand  in  the  extreme.  The  streets  of  Del  Norte 
are  wide  and  the  town  is  noted  for  its  growth  of  trees — mostly  cottonwoods.  Water 
for  irrigating  purposes  is  supplied  by  means  of  a  main  canal  from  the  Ri<>  Grande, 
with  laterals  over  the  town  site  along  the  sides  of  streets.  Del  Norte  is  certainly 
a  very  attractive  town.  (Population,  1,200.  Distance  from  Denver,  2S3  miles. 
Elevation,  7,880  feet.)  From  Del  Norte  the  line  follows  the  river  amidst  most 
attractive  scenery.  South  Fork  is  a  small  station  on  the  river,  and  is  a  favorite 
stopping  place  for  anglers. 


TO   1  HE   GOLDEN    GA  II. 


IOI 


Wagon  Wheel  Gap 
Hot  Springs. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
312  miles. 

Elevation,  8,449  feet. 


The  hot  springs  al  Wagon  Wheel  Cap,  together 
with    the    magnificence    of    the    scenery,    make    it 
one  of  the  mosl  attractive  pleasure  resorts  in  Colo- 
rado.    As  the  Cap  is  approached  the  valley  nar- 
rows until  the  river  is  hemmed  in  between  massive 
walls  of  solid  rock,  that   rise  to  such  a  heighl  on 
either  side  as  to  throw  the  passage  into  a  twilight 
shadow.     The    river    rushes    roaring    down    over 
gleaming  gravel  or  precipitous  ledges.     Progressing, 
the  scene  becomes  wilder  and  more  romantic,  until  at   last   the  waters  of  the  Rio 
Grande  pour  through  a  cleft  in  the  rocks  just  wide  enough  to  allow  the  construction 
of  a  road  at  the  river's  edge.     <  )n  the  right,  as  one  enters, 
tower  cliffs  to  a   tremendous  height,   suggestive  in   thier 
appearance    of    the    palisades    no 
the     Hudson.      (  )n     the     left     rises 
the   round    shoulder  of   a    massive 
mountain.      The    vast    wall   is   un- 
broken for  more  than  half  a  mile, 
its    crest     presenting    an     almost 
unserrated  sky  line.    Once  through 
the    gap    the    traveler,    looking    to 
the  south,  sees  a  valley  encroai  hed 
upon    and    surrounded    by    hills. 
Here-    is    the    old    stage    station,    a 
primitive    and    picturesque    struc- 
ture of  hewn  logs  and  adobe,  one 
story  in  height,   facing  the  south, 
and    made    cool    and    inviting    by 
wide-roofed     verandas     extending 
along     its     entire     front.      Not     a 
hundred   feet    away   rolls   the    Rio 
Grande  swarming  with  trout.     A 
drive   of   a    mile   along   a    winding 
road,   each    turn    in  which  reveals 
the    famous    springs.       The    medi- 
old     and     hot    springs,    have    been 


UP   THE   RIO   GRANDE, 


new  scenic  beauties,  brings  the  tourist  to 
cinal  qualities  of  the  waters,  both  of  the 
thoroughly  tested  and  proved  to  be  of  a  very  superior  quality.  Lieutenant 
Wheeler,  I".  S.  A.,  gives  the  following  analysis  of  these  springs:  No.  1  has  a  tem- 
perature of  about  [500  Fahrenheit,  is  bubbling  continually,  and  is  about  eight  feet 
wide  by  twelve  feet  long;  No.  2  is  a  small  bubbling  spring,  cold,  and  about  one 
foot  in  diameter,  and  gives  out  a  strong  odor  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen;  No.  ,;  is 
situated  some  distance  from  Xos.  1  and  2,  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  it  bubbles  continually 
and  Ls  of  a  temperature  of  140°  Fahrenheit.  This  spring  is  about  three  feel  wide 
and  the  same  in  length;  it  is  called  the'  Soda  Spring.  In  one  thousand  parts  of 
the  water  of  the  springs  of  Wagon  Wheel  Gap  are  contained  parts  as  follows: 


No.  '■ 

No.  3. 

Trai  c 

Trai  '■. 

144-5° 
Tra<  e. 

3 1  -°° 

5.10 

Trace. 

22  42 
Tran-. 

10.50 

IS- 70 

1 1.72 

33-34 

1.07 
Trace-. 

4.72 

12.00 

TO   THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  10; 

No  1. 

Sodium  Carbonate 69.42 

Lithium  Carbonate    Trace. 

Calcium  Carbonate   14.08 

Magnesium  Carbonate-    10.91 

Potassium  Sulphate  Trace. 

Sodium  Sulphate    23-73 

Sodium  Chloride    29—5 

Silicic  Acid    5.73 

Organic  Matter    Trace. 

Sulphuretted  Hydrogen Trace. 

Total    i52-i2        7J-39      2jS-77 

There  arc  two  good  hotels  at  Wagon  Wheel  Gap,  one  at  the  springs,  anothei 
close  to  the  station,  giving  ample  accommodation  for  invalids  and  sportsmen. 
The  Hot  Springs  Hotel,  at  the  springs,  has  recently  been  rebuilt  and  refurnished, 
and  is  now  in  condition  to  furnish  accommodations  of  the  first  (lass.  The  bathing 
facilities  at  the  springs  consist  of  a  first-class  stone  bath-house,  erected  in  iqo2  at 
an  expense  of  $25,000  and  is  complete  and  modern  in  every  detail. 

Alltelopo  Springs.  Twenty  miles  west  of  Wagon  Wheel  Gap,  in 
Antelope  Park,  aie  situated  Antelope  Springs,  in  a  region  which  is  becoming  a 
great  resort  for  sportsmen  and  abounding  in  fish  and  game.  The  waters  of  the 
springs  are  medicinal  and  resemble  the  more  widely  known  mineral  waters  of  the 
Gap,  in  that  they  are  both  hot  and  cold,  and  differ  among  themselves  in  their 
mineral  constituents.  The  scenery  is  wild  and  beautiful.  For  a  hunting  partv, 
or  as  a  place  for  a  few  day's  outing  in  camp,  no  more  pleasing  spot  can  be  found. 

Trout  Fishing  in  the  Rio  Grande.  There  is  no  stream  on  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  that  affords  finer  trout  fishing  than  the  Rio 
Grande.  Trout  reaching  the  wonderful  weight  of  nine  pounds  have  been  fre- 
quently taken,  and  those  weighing  from  one  to  three  pounds  can  be  caught  in  great 
abundance.     This  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  best  fishing  resorts  in  America. 

Ten  miles  beyond  Wagon  Wheel  Gap  on  Willow 
Creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Rio  Grande,  is  Creede, 
the  famous  mining  camp.  This  camp  was  located 
but  a  few  years  ago,  and  is  to-day  one  of  the  largest 
producing  camps  in  the  State,  and  has  a  population 
of  two  thousand.  While  Creede  is  known  as  a 
silver  camp,  it  is  not  distinctly  so.  The  ore  in  that 
district  varies,  and  almost  every  property  has  more 
or  less  of  a  percentage  of  gold.  The  vein  matter  is  so  rich  in  the  leading  mines  that 
even  did  they  not  contain  gold  they  could  be  worked  at  a  profit.  But  with  I.i-ad- 
ville,  so  with  Creede.  The  deeper  the  mines  are  going,  the  heavier  the  percentage 
of  gold.  This  has  been  the  invariable  rule  with  the  large  producing  properties, 
which,  from  the  indications,  will  soon  have  enough  gold  to  pay  for  their  working. 
The  camp  is  active  and  is  progressing.  A  great  deal  of  development  work  is  going 
on,  contracts  being  let  for  extensive  work  every  day.  New  districts  arc  being  opened 
up,  revealing  new  formations  and  good  paying  ore.  Tin  properties  that  first 
brought  the  camp  into  prominence  are  continuing  their  large  output. 

There  are  several  good  hotels  in  Creede,  and  the  wayfarer  will  be  assured  of  all 
modern  comforts. 


CREEDE. 

Great  Mining  Camp. 

Population,  2,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 

321  miles. 

Elevation,  8,852  feet. 


Mg^W 


ALAMOSA  TO  ESPANOLA  AND  SANTA  Ft 


HE  New  Mexico  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad 
extends  southward  from  Alamosa  to  Santa  Fe,  passing  through 
an  interesting  country  to  the  tourist,  especially  after  New  Mexico 
has  been  entered.  Here  can  be  seen  what  remains  of  the  ancient 
Spanish  civilization,  as  well  as  the  habitations  of  the  Pueblo  Indians 
and  the  ruins  of  the  pre-historic  Cliff  Dwellers.  Leaving  Alamosa 
the  road  turns  to  the  south  and  crosses  the  southern  portion  of  the  San  Luis  Valley. 


,sa^^^B 


EMBUDO,    RIO   GRANDE  VALLEY. 


Liil  Jar  a.  Within  the  last  few  years  many  new  towns  have  sprung  up  in 
the  valley,  owing  to  the  development  of  its  agricultural  industries,  through  the  con- 
struction of  great  irrigating  canals  Old  settlements  have  acquired  new  vigor 
and  advanced  greatly  in  prosperity.  La  Jara  is  one  of  the  towns  that  lias  received 
this  new  impulse.     Its  people  are  enterprising  and  industrious.     Agriculture  and 

io5 


io6 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


pastoral  pursuits  contribute  to  the  town's  success.  (Population,  300.  Distance 
from  Denver,  266  miles.     Elevation,  7,609  feet.) 

Romeo.  This  is  a  village  seven  miles  south  of  La  Jara  and  in  the  heart  of  a 
fine  agricultural  region. 

Antonito.  This  town  is  a  thriving  and  prosperous  place,  the  last  one  of 
any  special  importance  on  the  railroad  in  the  southern  part  of  the  San  Luis  Valley. 
Stock  raising  and  agriculture  occupy  the  attention  of  the  surrounding  population. 
There  is  a  fine  stone  depot  here,  and  there  are  many  creditable  business  blocks. 
It  is  the  station  for  Conejos,  one  mile  distant;  and  for  San  Rafael,  four  miles  distant. 
Its  position  in  the  heart  of  the  San  Luis  Valley  (for  full  description  of  which   see 


OLD   CHURCH  OF  SAN  JUAN. 


Alamosa)  insures  it  a  generous  and  constantly  increasing  support  from  agricultural 
and  pastoral  industries.  Being  the  junctional  point  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande- 
Railroad's  New  Mexico  and  San  Juan  branches  gives  it  a  large  railroad  business. 
Tourists  will  do  well  to  stop  at  Antonito  and  visit  the  old  Mexican  town  of  Conejos, 
which  is  the  most  accessible  town  of  the  typical  Mexican  character  in  Colorado. 
Here  may  be  found  the  plazas,  churches,  and  ancient  adobe  houses  peculiar  to 
the  early  civilization  of  the  Spanish.  Fine  fishing  can  be  found  near  Antonito. 
Antonito  itself  is  a  modern  town  with  all  the  life  and  push  of  the  American,  full 
of  business  and  enterprise.  (Population,  400.  Distance  from  Denver,  280  miles. 
Elevation,  7,888  feet.) 

I'allllilltl  is  eleven  miles  from  Antonito,  and  here  the  road  enters  the 
Territory  of  New  Mexico  and  passes  through  a  number  of  small  stations  of  no 
especial  interest  to  the  tourist.  As  a  matter  of  statistics,  the  names  of  these  stations 
and  their  distances  from  Denver  are  given;  Palmilla,  291  miles;  Volcano,  299  miles; 
No  Agua,  308  miles;  Tres  Piedras,  315  miles;  Serviletta,  324  miles;  Caliente,  336 
miles;  Barranca,  345  miles;  Embudo,  352  miles;  Alcalde,  360  miles;  Chamita, 
367  miles;  Espanola,  371  miles.  The  traveler  will  notice  that  the  names  of  the 
stations  have  assumed  a  Spanish  form,  and  should  he  happen  to  address  any  of 
the  swarthy  men  that  chance  to  be  lounging  around  the  stations,  he  would  very 
likely  receive  a  reply  in  the  language  of  Hispania.     The  Snanisb  cjoken  is  * 


TO    THE   GOLDEN   GATE. 


107 


A  SOUTHERN    UTE. 


Castilian  by  any  means,  but  is  about  as  near  it  as  "pidgin  English"  is  to  genuine 
Chinese,  being  a  mixture  of  English,  Spanish,  and  Indian  dialects. 

Barranca  is  a  quiel  little  station  in  New 
Mexico,  345  miles  from  Denver,  [ts  only  claim  for 
special  mention  is  the  fact  that  here  the  traveler  lakes 
the  stage  for  Ojo  Caliente,  the  celebrated  hoi  springs, 
which  lie  among  the  hills,  eleven  miles  to  the  west- 
ward. Stages  to  and  from  the  springs  connect  with 
passenger  trains,  making  quick  time  over  an  excel- 
lent road.  The  altitude  of  the  springs  i^  6,019  '"1'l't 
and  the  climate  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  mild  and 
pleasant.  The  Springs  have  been  noted  lor  their 
curative  properties  and  from  time  immemorial,  hav- 


OJO  CALIENTE. 

Famous  Hot  Springs. 

Health  and  Pleasure 
Resort. 

Elevation,  6,019  feet. 


ioS 


OVER    THE   RANGE 


ing  been  frequented  by  the  Indians  previous  to  Spanish  occupation  and  highly 
esteemed  by  both  races  since  that  date.  They  have  proved  remarkably  suc- 
c(  ssful  in  the  treatment  of  rheumatism,  skin  diseases,  derangement  of 
the  kidneys  and  bladder,  and  especially  of  all  venereal  diseases.  Cases  of  paralysis, 
after  resisting  the  usual  appliances  of  medicine,  have  been  sent  to  Ojo  Caliente, 

and  immediately  and  permanently 
relieved.  The  springs  lie  in  a 
pleasant  valley,  nine  hundred  feet 
lower  than  Barranca,  surrounded 
by  high  bluffs  capped  with  basaltic 
cliffs.  On  the  top  of  these  cliffs 
are  table-lands  on  which  are  found 
the  ruins  of  prehistoric  buildings, 
not  unlike  the  Indian  pueblos  of 
the  present  day,  but  of  which  the 
Indians  know  nothing  and  even 
their  traditions  furnish  no  account. 
Four  miles  above  the  village  are 
larger  springs  of  tepid  water,  the 
mineral  deposits  from  which  have 
built  up  great  mounds,  full  of 
strange  caves  and  glittering  with 
saline  inc  rustations.  About  three 
miles  from  Ojo  Caliente  is  a  high 
mountain  called  Cerro  Colorado, 
from  its  peculiar  reddish  brown 
color,  which,  according  to  the 
statement  of  the  inhabitants,  ex- 
hibited marked  evidences  of  vol- 
canic action  about  seventy  years  ago.  It  has  a  well-defined  crater,  and  offers  an 
inviting  field  for  the  investigations  of  the  geologist. 

Comanche  CanOll.  Six  miles  below  Barranca  the  train  enters  Comanche 
Canon.  Through  this  canon  the  road  makes  its  descent  into  the  Rio  Grande  Val- 
ley. Rugged,  difficult,  and  striking,  the  canon  commands  the  admiration  of  the 
spectator.  Through  breaks  in  the  walls  can  be  caught  glimpses  of  the  valley 
and  river,  the  noble  Rio  Grande  beneath.  Experienced  travelers  who  have  made 
the  "grand  tour"  say  that  this  scene  resembles  choice-  bits  in  Switzerland.  Ernest 
Ingersoll  thus  describes  the-  valley  in  his  charming  book,  "The  Crest  of  the  Con- 
tinent": "Emerging  from  Comanche  Canon,  a  bend  to  the  southward  is  made 
along  the  western  bank  of  tin-  lower  part  of  the  canon  of  the  Rio  Grande.  In  many 
portions  of  this  narrow  valley,  only  about  twenty  miles  in  length,  features  of  great 
interest  to  the  eye  occur,  equaling  the  walls  of  Comanche,  which  was  itself  ignored 
until  the  railway  brought  it  to  the  light.  The  river  here  is  about  sixty  yards  wide, 
and  pours  with  a  swift  current  troubled  by  innumerable  fallen  rocks.  At  times 
it  is  swollen  and  yellow  with  the  drift  of  late  rains,  but  in  clear  weather  its  waters  are 
bright  and  blue,  for  it  has  not  yet  soiled  its  color  with  the  line-  silt  which  will  thicken 
it  between  Texas  and  Mexico.  On  the  opposite  bank,  near  the  level  of  the  river, 
runs  the  wagon  road  that  General  Edward  Hatch,  formerly  commander  of  the  de- 
partment cjf  Xew  Mexico,  cut  some  years  ago  to  give  ready  communications  between 
his  headquarters  at  Santa  Fe  and  the  posts  in  the  northern  part  of  the  Territory 


PUEBLO   INDIANS. 


SANTA  CRUZ. 

PUEBLO  OF  SAN 
JUAN. 

PUEBLO  DE 
TAOS. 


HO  OVER    THE  RANGE 

and  in  southern  Colorado.  This  is  the  track  now  followed  by  all  teamsters,  but 
the  old  road  from  the  south  to  Taos  ran  over  the  hills  far  to  the  eastward,  passing 
through  Picuris." 

Elllbiulo.  At  the  mouth  of  Comanche  Cafion  stands  an  odd  conical  hill 
dividing  the  current  of  the  river.  Noticing  its  resemblance  to  a  funnel  the  Mexi- 
cans called  it  Embudo,  and  the  station  here  takes  the  same  name.  Embudo  is 
chiefly  important  as  the  point  of  departure  for  Taos,  whose  remarkable  pueblo 
is  described  further  on. 

Espanola.  This  little  village  is  of  interest  to  the  tourist  because  of  its 
contiguity  to  ancient  pueblos  and  the  ruins  of  Cliff  dwellings.  Espafiola's  tribu- 
tary industries  are  pastoral  and  agricultural.  (Population,  ioo.  Distance  from 
Denver,  372  miles.     Elevation,  5,590  feet.) 

Places  of  Interest  Near  Espanola. 

Santa  Cruz  is  a  most  interesting  old  Mexican  town, 
situated  on  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  directly 
opposite  Espanola.  Its  chief  attraction  is  the 
ancient  church  erected  in  the  sixteenth  century, 
which  contains  several  paintings  and  images  sent 
over  from  Spain. 

The  Pueblo  of  San  Juan  is  situated  on 
the  Rio  Grande,  about  four  miles  above  Espanola, 
and  one  and  one-half  miles  from  the  railroad.  There  are  twenty-six  similar  Indian 
towns,  nineteen  of  which  are  situated  in  New  Mexico,  and  seven  in  Arizona.  Nine 
of  them  are  on  the  line  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  or  its  immediate 
vicinity,  viz.:  Taos,  Picuris,  San  Juan,  Santa  Clara,  San  Yldefonso,  Pojuaque, 
Nombe,  Cuyamauque,  and  Tesuque.  The  different  pueblos  closely  resemble 
each  other  in  construction.  The  dwellings  are  all  built  of  mud-colored  adobes,  or 
sun-dried  bricks,  and  are  arranged  so  as  to  inclose  a  plaza  or  public  square.  The 
walls  are  from  two  to  four  feet  in  thickness,  and  the  roofs  are  of  timber,  covered 
with  dirt  a  foot  or  more  in  depth;  many  houses  are  two,  and  some  even  four  and  five 
stories,  or  rather  terraces,  in  height,  each  successive  story  being  set  back  some 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet  from  the  side  walls  of  the  next  story  below.  The  usual  manner 
of  entering  these  dwellings  is  by  ascending  a  ladder  outside  the  building  to  the 
roof,  and  through  a  hole  descending  to  the  interior  by  another  ladder;  though  some, 
as  a  modern  improvement,  have  doors  cut  through  the  side  walls.  This  method 
was  doubtless  adopted  as  a  defensive  measure  during  troublesome  times,  when  it 
was  often  necessary  to  convert  the  pueblo  into  a  fortress  from  which  to  repel  hostile 
invasions. 

Pueblo  of  Santa  Clara.  A  few  miles  below  the  pueblo  of  San 
Juan  is  the  pueblo  of  Santa  Clara,  just  across  the  river  from  Chamita,  a  station  on 
the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  line.  Its  characteristics  are  similar  to  those  of  the 
pueblos  already  described. 

The  Pueblo  de  Taos.  Thirty  miles  above  Embudo  is  the  Pueblo 
de  Taos.  This  is  considered  the  most  interesting  as  well  as  the  most  perfect  speci- 
men of  a  Pueblo  Indian  fortress.  It  consists  of  two  communistic  houses,  each  five 
stories  high,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  church,  now  in  a  ruined  condition,  which  stands 
near,  although  apart  from,  the  dwellings.  Around  the  fortress  are  seven  circular 
mounds,  which  at  first  suggest  the  idea  of  being  the  work  of  Mound  Builders.  On 
further  examination  they  prove  to  be  the  sweating  chambers,  or  Turkish  bath,  of 
this  curious  people.     The  largest  appears  also  to  serve  the  purpose  of  a  council 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


I  I  I 


chamoei  and  mystic  hall,  where  rites  peculiar  to  the  tribe,  about  which  they  are 
very  reticent,  are  performed.  The  Pueblo  Indians  delight  to  adorn  themselves 
in  gay  colors,  and  form  very  interesting  and  picturesque  subjects  for  the  a  nisi, 
especially  when  associated  with  their  quaint  surroundings.  They  are  skilled  in 
the  manufacture  of  pottery,  basket  making,  and  head  work.  The  grand  annual 
festival  in  honor  of  San  Geronimo  (St.  Jerome)  of  these  Indians  occurs  on  the  30th 
of  September,  and  the  ceremonies  are  of  a  peculiarly  interesting  character. 

All  of  these  ancient  pueblos  are  easy  of  access  via  the  Denver    &  Rio  Grande 
Railroad,  and  abound  in  objects  of  interest  dating  back  many  hundreds  of  years 


NEW    MEXICAN   INDIAN    LIFE. 


before  the  occupation  of  the  country  by  the  whites,  and  will  fully  repay  the  tourist 
for  the  time  and  expense  necessary  to  visit  them. 

Esp.mola    to    Sailtll    Fe.      From    Espahola  the  line  of  the  Denver    & 
Rio  Grande  continues  still  further  southward  to  the  capital  of  New  Mexico,  one  of 
the  most  interesting  cities  on. the  North  American  continent,  Santa  Fe.     En  route 
one  can  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  ruins  of  ancient  cliff  dwellings  perched  in  the  alcoves 
of    the    perpendicular    bluffs    which    rise    near    the 
track.     The  journey  is   only    a    distance   of  thirty- 
four  miles  through  a  country  presenting  novelty  to 
the  eyes  of  those  unfamiliar  to  sub-tropical  scenes, 
but  not  of  an  especially  startling  character. 

The  capital  of  the  territory  of  New  Mexico  i-- 
the  oldest  city  in  the  United  Slates,  there  being 
evidence  to  show  that  it  was  inhabited  as  early 
as  1325,  or  nearly  three  hundred  years  before  the 
pilgrim  fathers  landed  on  Plymouth  Rock,  and  167 
years  before  the  landing  of  Columbus.  The  city 
of  Holy  Faith  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Santa 
Fe  Creek.  The  streets  are  narrow,  and  the  build- 
ings are  almost  all  constructed  of  adobe,  and  only  one  story  in  height.  The  city  is 
filled  with  antiquities,  the  most  remarkable  of  which,  perhaps,  is  the  church  of  San 


SANTA    FE. 

The  Oldest  Town  in  the 
United  States. 

Commercial  City  and 
Health  Resort. 

Population,  7,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
405  miles. 

Elevation,  6,968. 


112  OVER    THE  RANGE 

Miguel,  built  in  1582,  and  the  Palace,  erected  in  1710.  The  city  is  free  from  malaria 
and  excessive  heat  and  cold,  and  from  wind  and  sand  storms.  It  is  supplied  with 
pure  water  and  pure  air  from  the  mountains  surrounding;  it  has  delightful  scenery 
beneath  bright  sunshine  with  glorious  sunsets;  it  has  trout  in  its  streams,  and  game 
in  the  adjacent  hills  and  mountains;  the  people  are  daily  supplied  at  their  doors  with 
the  freshest  and  choicest  esculents  of  home  production;  and  besides  possessing 
wonderful  health-giving  properties,  it  is  one  of  the  most  comfortable  residence 
cities  in  the  world.  This  fact  is  rapidly  becoming  known  and  appreciated,  as  wit- 
ness its  growing  popularity  both  as  a  summer  residence  for  people  from  the  South, 
and  as  a  winter  residence  for  people  from  the  North,  and  as  an  all-the-year-round 
residence  and  sanitarium  for  people  variously  in  search  of  health,  comfort,  pleasure, 
and  business. 

Santa  Fe  is  the  chief  money  center  of  the  Territory.  It  has  two  old  and  well 
established  national  banking  houses,  besides  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  for 
loan  in  private  hands.  It  has  a  live  board  of  trade,  the  most  able  and  distin- 
guished bar  in  the  Southwest.  The  capital  of  the  territory,  penitentiary,  and 
public  buildings  are  of  great  beauty  and  value.  A  splendid  agricultural,  pastoral, 
and  mining  country  is  tributary  to  the  city.  (Population,  7,000.  Distance  from 
Denver,  405  miles.     Elevation,  6,968  feet.)  ' 


Mi'.       Ir 


ALAMOSA  TO  SILVERTON. 


fiia£>^^Cfj|  T  Antonito  the  line  branches,  that  to  Espafiola  and  Santa  be  extend- 
^^]B|  (h  ing  due  south  and  that  to  Durango  and  Silverton  turning  to  the 
westward.  The  trip  from  Antonito  to  Silverton  is  one  of  great 
interest  and  abounds  in  scenic  attractions.  The  road  gradually 
climbs  out  of  the  valley  of  San  Luis  and  up  the  eastward  slope  to 
the  Conejos  range  of  mountains.  The  line  from  Big  Horn  to 
Arboles  is  constantly  among  the  hills,  and  the  stations  are  either  for  the  i  onvenience 
of  stockmen  or  shipping  points  for  lumber,  and  while  of  commercial  importance 
to  the  railroad,  of  little  interest  to  the  tourist.  During  the  summer  the  Conejos 
Mountains  furnish  one  of  the  finest  ranges  for  stock  in  Colorado,  and  it  goes  without 
saying  that  these  grass-carpeted  hills  and  vales  are  fully  occupied.  The  forest 
growth  on  the  western  slope  is  of  a  larger  and  more  dense  character  than  that  of 
the  eastern.  Many  sawmills  have  been  here  established,  and  the  manufacture 
of  lumber  is  a  large  industry.  The  climb  to  Chama  is  full  of  interest.  The  line 
pursues  a  tortuous  course,  following  the  convolutions  of  the  hills  and  making  the 
ascent  up  the  less  difficult  grades  of  the  gulches. 

IjOS  r*ill«>s  Valley.  Describing  a  number  of  large  curves  around  con- 
stantly deepening  depressions,  we  reach  the  breast  of  a  mountain,  whence  we 
obtain  our  first  glimpse  into  Los  Pinos  Valley,  and  it  comes  like  a  sudden  revela- 
tion of  beauty  and  grandeur.  The  approach  has  been  picturesque  and  gentle  in 
character.  Now  we  find  our  train  clinging  to  a  narrow  pathway  carved  out  far 
up  the  mountain's  side,  while  great  masses  of  a  volcanic  conglomerate  tower  over- 
head, and  the  faces  of  the  opposing  heights  are  broken  into  bristling  crags.  The 
river  sinks  deeper  and  deeper  into  the  narrowing  vale,  ami  the  space  beneath  us  to 
its  banks  is  excitingly  precipitous.  AW'  crowd  upon  the  platform,  the  outer  step  of 
which  sometimes  hangs  over  an  abyss  that  makes  us  shudder,  till  some  friendly 
bank  places  itself  between  us  and  the  almost  unbroken  descent.  But  we  learn  to 
enjoy  the  imminent  edge,  along  which  the  train  creeps  so  cautiously,  and  begrudge 
every  instant  that  the  landscape  is  shut  out  by  intervening  objects.  To  say  that 
the  vision  here  is  grand,  awe-inspiring,  impressive,  or  memorable,  falls  short  of  the 
truth  in  each  case.  It  is  too  much  to  take  in  at  once.  We  are  so  high  that  not  only 
the  bottom  of  the  valley,  where  the  silvery  ribbon  of  the  Los  Pinos  trails  in  and  out 
among  the  trees,  and  underneath  the  headlands,  but  even  the  wooded  tops  of  the 
further  rounded  hills  are  below  us,  and  we  (an  counl  the  dim,  distant  peaks  in 
New  Mexii  o. 

Phantom  Curve  One  cf  the  most  striking  scenes  on  the  line  of  this 
ascent  is  Phantom  Curve.  Just  after  the  side-track  station  of  Sublette  (306  miles 
from  Denver)  has  been  passed,  the  road  makes  a  great  bend  around  the  side  of  a 
mountain;  on  the  left  rise  tall  monuments  of  sandstone,  cut  by  the  elements  into 
weird  and  fantastic  figures.  Here  is  indeed  a  wild  spot,  with  the  valleys  so  deep 
be-low,  the  grotesque,  red  monumental  ro<  k^  around,  the  tall,  shelving  cliffs  above. 
A  mile  beyond  the  Curve  the  railroad  crosses  the  head  of  the  ravine  on  a  high 

»3 


TO    THE  GOLDEX   GATE. 


"5 


TOLTEC    GORGE, 

A  Scenic  Wonder. 

Depth  of  Gorge, 
1,500  feet. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
315  miles. 


bridge.  From  this  point  the  track  runs  directly  toward  the  valley,  on  a  line  almost 
at  right  angles  with  it,  to  where  it  narrows  into  a  mere  fissure  in  the  rocks  at  Toltec 
Gorge. 

The  approach  to  this  greal  si  enic  wonder  (ire- 
pares  the  traveler  for  something  extraordinar)  and 
spectacular.  A  black  speck  in  the  distance  against 
the  precipitous  surface  of  a  frowning  cliff  is  beheld 
long  before  Toltec  is  reached,  and  is  pointed  out 
as  the  entrance  to  the  tunnel  which  is  the  gateway 
to  the  Gorge.  As  the  advance  is  made  around 
mountain  spurs  and  deep  ravines,  glimpses  are 
caught  of  profound  depths  and  lowering  heights, 
the  black  speck  widens  into  a  yawning  porti  ullis, 
and  then  the  train,  making  a  detour  of  four  miles  around  a  side  canon,  plunges 
into  the  blackness  of  Toltec  tunnel,  which  is  remarkable  in  that  it  pierces  the  sum- 
mit of  the  mountain  instead  of  its  base.  Fifteen  hundred  feet  of  perpendicular 
descent  would  take  one  to  the  bottom  of  the  gorge,  while  the  seared  and  wrinkled 
expanse  of  the  opposite  wall  confronts  us,  lifting  its  massive  bulwarks  high  above  us. 

"  Fronting  heaven's  splendor, 
Strong  and  full  and  clear." 

When  the  train  emerges  from  the  tunnel  it  is  upon  the  brink  of  a  precipice.  A 
solid  bridge  of  iron  and  masonry,  set  in  the  rock  after  the  manner  of  a  balcony, 
supports  the  track,  and  from  this  coigne  of  vantage  the  traveler  beholds  a 
most  thrilling  spectacle.     The  tremendous  gorge,  whose  sides  are  splintered  rocks 


INDIAN    ENCAMPMENT. 


and  monumental  crags  and  whose  depths  are  filled  with  the  snow-white  waters  of  a 
foaming  torrent,  lies  beneath  him,  the  blue  sky  is  above  him  and  all  around  the 
majesty  and  mystery  of  the  mountains. 

Garfield  Memorial.  To  the  left  of  the  track,  just  beyond  the  bridge, 
stands  a  monument  of  granite.  Curiosity  is  naturally  excited  at  beholding  this 
polished  shaft,  and  the  questions  which  arise  as  to  its  origin  can  be  briefly  answered 
as  follows:     On  the  26th  day  of  September,   1881,  the  American  Association  of 


TOLTEC   GORGE. 


TO    THE   GOLDEN    GA  TE 


) 


General  Passenger  Agents  (thru  on  an  excursion  ovei  the  Denvei  &  Rio  Grande 
Railroad),  at  the  time  President  Garfield  was  being  buried  in  Cleveland,  held 
memorial  services  at  the  mouth  of  Toltec  tunnel  and  since  have  erected  this  beauti- 
ful monument  in  commemoration  of  the  event. 

Cumbres.  This  small  station  is  on  the  summit  of  the  Conejos  Range, 
which  we  are  now  crossing,  and,  having  passed  it,  we  are  on  the  Pacifii  slope. 
(Distance  from  Denver,  330  miles.     Elevation,  10,0151V.  1 

Cliama.  This  is  an  eating  station,  where,  in  spite  of  primitive  accommoda- 
tions, an  excellent  meal  can  be  obtained.  Large  quantities  of  lumber,  sheep,  and 
wool  are  shipped  from  here,  and  the  surrounding  country  is  an  excellent  range  for 
stock.    (Population,  300.    Distance  from  Denver,  344  miles.    Elevation,  7,863  feet.) 


PUEBLO   DE   TAOS. 

Lumber tou.  At  this  station  will  be  encountered  the  first  of  the  abori] 
to  be  met  on  this  journey.  They  are  the  Jacirilla  Apaches,  whose  agency  build- 
ings are  located  at  Dulcc,  the  next  station  beyond.  This  tribe  arc  particularly 
adept  in  weaving  baskets  and  their  handiwork  bring  fancy  prices  in  the  curio  shops 
of  Denver  and  elsewhere.  Lumberton  is  the  junctional  point  with  the  Rio  Grande 
and  Pagosa  Springs  Railway,  extending  northward  a  distance  of  eight  miles  to 
Edith,  a  lumbering  town  in  the  midst  of  magnificent  forests.  Train  loads  of  fine 
lumber  and  timber  are  brought  out  daily. 

Lumberton  has  a  population  of  several  hundred,  is  369  miles  from  Denver,  and 
an  elevation  of  6, goo  feet. 

Dlllce.  White  population,  nominal;  but  this  being  the  agencyfor  the  Jacirilla 
Apache  Indians,  man}'  of  their  tepees  will  be  seen 
in  the  neighborhood.  (Distance  from  Denver,  373 
miles,  Elevation,  6,779  feet.) 

Pagnsa  Junction.  (Population  nominal. 
Distance  from  Denver,  39c  miles.  Elevation,  6,271 
feet.)  At  tills  poinl  connects  the  Rio  Grande, 
Pagosa  &  Northern  Railway,  which  leads  northerly 
a  distance  of  thirty-one  miles,  through  a  region 
marvelously  rich  in  line  forests  of  pine  and  spruce 
to  the  famous  resort  of  Pagosa  Springs. 

Pagosa  Springs,  the  far  famed  "big  medicine" 
of  the  Utes,  the  greatest  thermal  fountains  on  the  continent,  are  situated  in 
Archuleta  County,  thirty-one  miles  northwest  of  1'agosa  Junction,  on  the  New 
Mexico  extension  of  the  Denver  &Rio  Grande  Railroad  and  reached  by  lh<    Rio 


Pagosa  Springs. 

The  "Big  Hedicine"  of 
the  Indians. 

Hot  Springs. 

Health  and  Pleasure 
Resort. 

Elevation,  7,108  feet. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  1 19 

Grande,  Pagosa&  Northern  Railway  from  the  Junrtion.  These  Springs  lie  upon 
the  northern  bank  of  the  San  Juan  River,  at  an  altitude  of  seven  thousand  feel,  and 
in  a  situation  combining  numerous  advantages  and  attrai  tions.  To  the  north  are 
the  peaks  of  the  San  Juan  range,  east  and  wesl  are  the  grassy  plains  dotted  with 
immense  pines,  and  farto  the  south  the  undulating  prairie  stret<  lies  into  New  Mexico. 
With  such  an  environment,  the  Pagosa  Springs  must  ere  long  gain  the  celebrity  to 
which  their  medicinal  qualities  undoubtedly  entitle  them.  The  Indians  having  long 
been  aware  of  the  healing  powers  of  these  "great  medicine  waters,"  have,  until 
recently,  jealously  guarded  their  possession.  It  is  not  surprising  that  these  <  hildren 
of  the  wilderness,  who  find  relief  from  distress  mainly  from  the  medications  of 
Nature,  should  deplore  the  loss  of  these  powerful  thermal  waters.  Within  a  basin 
seventy  feet  long  and  fifty  feet  wide  formed  from  its  own  alkaline  deposits,  which 
are  twenty  or  thirty  feet  thick,  the  water  bubbles  up  at  a  temperature  of  1  530  Fahren- 
heit. There  are  four  other  springs  in  the  immediate  locality,  their  similarity  to 
the  main  source,  as  shown  by  analysis,  suggesting  a  common  origin.  Upon  a  cold 
morning  the  steam  which  rises  from  these  different  springs  can  be  seen  at  a  distance 
of  several  miles.  These  purgative,  alkaline  waters,  with  the  large  excess  of  sulphate 
of  soda,  so  much  increased  in  medicinal  virtue  by  the  degree  of  temperature,  would 
seem  to  designate  Pagosa  as  the  Bethesda  for  sufferers  from  calculus  disorders, 
gravel  with  uric  diathesis,  rheumatism,  and  skin  diseases,  when  alterative  and  de- 
pleting treatment  is  indicated.  New  bath-houses  and  hotels  have  been  erected, 
and  the  tourist  will  find  good  accommodations  here. 

The  Pacific  Slope.  From  Chama  to  Durango,  the  ride  is  down  grade 
and  through  a  most  interesting  country.  Hills  and  valleys  of  great  beauty,  mead- 
ows covered  with  thick  growing  grass,  forests  of  giant  trees,  arc  some  of  the  many 
attractions  of  this  trip. 

Ig'liacio.  At  Ignacio  the  Ute  Indian  reservation  is  reached  and  the  rude 
tepees  of  the  Southern  Utes  can  be  seen  pitched  along  the  banks  of  the  Rio  de  las 
Florida.  Occasionally  a  glimpse  can  be  caught  of  a  stolid  brave,  tricked  out  in 
all  his  savage  finery,  gazing  fixedly  at  the  train  as  it  speeds  by.  Frequently  there 
is  quite  a  little  group  of  these  aborigines  at  the  station,  and  they  arc  always  ready 
to  exchange  bows  and  arrows,  trophies  of  the  chase,  or  specimens  of  their  rude 
handiwork,  in  return  for  very  hard  cash. 

This  thriving  city  is  the  county-seat  of  La  Plata 


DURANGO. 

Metropolis  of  the 

San  Juan. 

Population,  5,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 

via  Veta  Pass,  452  miles. 

Via  Salida,  500  miles. 

Via  Ridgway,  539  miles. 

Elevation,  6,520  feet. 


County,  Colorado,  and  is  the  commercial  center  of 
southwestern  Colorado.  .  It  is  the  market  for  the 
agricultural  region  of  Farmington  and  Bloomfield, 
New  Mexico,  and  the  valleys  of  the  Rio  de  las 
Animas,  the  Rio  Florida,  etc. 

Two  miles  below  Durango  is  the  wonderful 
"ninety-two  feet  thick"  vein  of  coal,  one  of  the 
largest  in  the  State,  and  here  arc,  also,  great  coke 
ovens.  All  the  surrounding  hills  are  more  heavily 
timbered  than  in  any  other  part  of  Colorado.      In 

addition  to  its  many  other  resources  Durango  boasts  of  two  of  the  largest  smelters 

in  the  State,  reducing  from  their  native  state  the  precious  ores  of  the  wonderfully 

rich  mines  of  the  entire  San  Juan. 

With  two  railroads  in  operation,  and  several  in  contemplation,  and  with  its 

natural  resources  Durango  will  in  time,  and  a  very  short  time  too,  prove  to  be  the 

metropolis  of  the  Great  Southwest. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  12] 

The  famous  Cliff  Ruins,  a  description  of  which  will  be  found  further  on,  are 
reached  from  Durango,  by  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  Railroad  to  Mancos  Station, 
thence  by  saddle  horses  or  wagons. 

In  a  word,  Durango  is  one  of  the  most  progressive  towns  in  Colorado,  and  i- 
surrounded  by  a  country  of  unexampled  richness.  Mining,  agricultural  and 
pastoral  pursuits  all  contribute  to  her  success;  but  besl  of  all  her  business  men  are 

alive,  and  by  their  liberality,  generosity,  and  push  insure  a  good  future  for  the  <  itv. 

Farming-toil,  Bloomfield,  and  Aztec  are  growing  towns  in  New 
Mexico,  just  over  the  southern  line  of  La  Plata  County.  They  are  in  the  In  ail  of  a 
large  agricultural  and  stock  growing  district,  and  near  many  ruins  of  the  homes  of 
the  ancient  Cliff  Dwellers. 

Trimble  Hot  Springs  are  reached  nine  miles  above  Durango.  The 
spacious  hotel  stands  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  road  to  the  left  of  the  track. 
Here  are  medicinal  hot  springs  of  great  curative  value,  and  here,  in  the  season, 
gather  invalids  and  pleasure  seekers  to  drink  the  waters  and  enjoy  the  delights  of 
this  charming  resort.  The  water  as  it  pours  out  of  the  rock  is  at  a  temperature  of 
120  degrees,  and  runs  constantly  in  a  stream  three  inches  in  diameter.  Within 
two  feet  of  it  is  another  spiring  flowing  as  much  more  in  a  stream  of  cold  water. 
Bath-houses  have  been  erected,  and  the  hot  and  cold  water  can  be  mixed.  The 
medicinal  properties  of  these  springs  are  beyond  question.  Four  miles  further  up 
the  Animas  valley  are  the  Pinkerton  springs  of  warm  water,  closely  resembling 
in  properties  those  at  Trimble's.  Leaving  the  springs  behind,  the  train  speeds  up 
the  valley,  which  gradually  narrows  as  the  advance  is  made,  the  ascending  grade 
becomes  steeper,  the  hills  close  in,  and  soon  the  view  is  restricted  to  the  rocky 
gorge  within  whose  depths  the  raging  waters  of  the  Animas  sway  and  swirl. 

Mag'llificeilt  Scenery.  From  Durango,  the  metropolis  of  the  San 
Juan,  to  Silverton,  the  scenery  is  of  surpassing  grandeur  and  beauty.  The  railroad 
follows  up  the  course  of  the  Animas  River  (to  which  the  Spaniards  gave  the  musical 
but  melancholy  title  of  "Rio  de  las  Animas  Perdidas, "  or  River  of  Lost  Souls')  until 
the  picturesque  mining  town  of  Silverton  is  reached.  The  valley  of  the  Animas 
is  traversed  before  the  canon  is  entered,  and  the  traveler's  eyes  are  delighted  with 
succeeding  scenes  of  sylvan  beauty.  To  the  right  is  the  river,  beyond  which  rise 
the  hills;  to  the  left  are  mountains,  increasing  in  rugged  contour  as  the  advance  is 
made;  between  the  track  and  the  river  are  cultivated  fields  and  cosy  farm-houses, 
while  evidences  of  peace,  prosperity,  and  plenty  of  are  be  seen  on  every  hand. 

This  beautiful  canon  has  characteristics  pecu- 
liarly its  own.  The  railroad  does  not  follow  the 
bed  of  the  stream,  but  clings  to  the  cliffs  midway 
of  their  height,  and  a  glance  from  tin-  car  windows 
gives  one  the  impression  of  a  view  from  a  balloon. 
Below,  a  thousand  feel,  are  the  waters  of  the  river, 
in  places  white  villi  foam,  in  quiet  coves,  green  as 
ocean's  depths.  Above,  five  hundred  feet,  climb 
the  combing  cliffs,  to  which  cling  pines  and  hem- 
locks. The  canon  here  is  a  mere  fissure  in  the  mountain's  heart,  so  narrow  that 
one  can  easily  toss  a  stone  across  and  send  it  bounding  down  the  side  of  the  oppo- 
sing rock-wall  until  it  falls  into  the  waters  of  the  river  rushing  through  the  abyss 
below.  Emerging  from  this  wonderful  chasm,  the  bed  of  the  gorge  rises  until  the 
roadwav  is  but  a  few  feet  above  the  stream.  The  <  lose,  confining,  and  towering 
walls  of  rock  are  replaced  by  mountains  of  supreme  height.     The  Needles,  which 


ANIMAS  CANON. 

A  Gem  of  Beauty. 

Depth,  1,500  feet. 

Di.ctance  from  Denver, 
470  miles. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  123 

are  among  the  most  peculiar  and  striking  of  the  Rockies,  thrust  their  sharp  and 
splintered  peaks  into  the  regions  of  eternal  frost. 

Klk  Park  is  a  quiet  little  nook  in  the  midst  of  the  range,  with  vistas  of 
meadow  an  1  groves  of  pines,  a  spot  which  would  furnish  the  artisl  many  a  subject 
for  his  canvas.  At  the  end  of  Elk  Park  stands  Garfield  Peak,  lifting  its  summit  a 
mile  above  the  track.  Beyond  are  marshaled  the  everlasting  mountains,  and 
through  them  for  miles  extends,  in  varying  beauty  and  grandeur,  the  Canon  of 
the  Animas.  Frequent  waterfalls  glisten  in  the  sunlight,  leaping  from  crag  to 
crag  only  to  lose  themselves  at  last  in  the  onflowing  river.  Emerging  finally  from 
this  environment  of  crowding  cliffs,  the  train  sweeps  into  Baker's  Park  and  arrives 
at  Silverton  in  the  heart  of  the  San  Juan. 

This  thriving  and  picturesque  little  city  is  the 
rounty-seat  of  San  Juan  County,  Colorado,  and 
derives  its  support  from  the  surrounding  mines, 
which  are  scattered  in  every  portion  of  the  county. 
The  output  of  the  camp  has  swelled  from  an  annual 
product  of  $40,000  to  §2,000,000  in  three  years. 
From  600  to  t,ooo  tons  of  ore  are  shipped  weekly 
from  Silverton,  and  the  product  is  constantly  in- 
creasing. An  industry  of  no  small  importances  and 
which  is  rapidly  assuming  large  dimensions,  is  the 
system  of  leasing  mines,  and  it  may  be  said  that  at 
least  one-half  of  the  producing  mines  are  now  being  worked  by  lessees.  Hundreds 
of  prospects  that  are  in  a  condition  to  ship  paying  mineral  are  now  laving  idle-, 
awaiting  the  arrival  of  thrifty  miners  to  take  and  work  them  under  this  system.  The 
scenery  around  Silverton  is  of  the  most  beautiful  and  attractive  character.  En- 
trance to  Baker's  Park,  in  which  the  town  lies,  is  made  through  the  famous  Animas 
Canon.  Hid  in  a  theater  of  hills,  the  picturesqucness  of  the  surroundings  cannot 
be  adequately  described.  Sultan  Mountain,  one  of  the  grandest  of  the  San  Juan 
Range,  towers  above  the  town;  its  summit  crowned  with  snow  from  which  descend 
innumerable  rills,  glittering  like  silver  in  the  sunbeams.  Three  small  railways, 
the  Silverton,  the  Silverton  Northern,  and  the  Silverton,  Cladstone  &T  Northerly 
radiate  from  the  town  to  the  various  mining  camps,  of  Eureka,  Red  Mountain, 
Ironton,  Gladstone,  and  others  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  Silverton,  and  haul 
immense  quantities  of  gold  and  silver  ores  to  the  main  railway,  and  thence  to  the 
smelters  at  Durango. 


SILVERTON. 

Picturesque  /lining 
Town. 

Population,  2,500. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
497  miles. 

Elevation,  9,300  feet. 


DURANGO  TO  RIDGWAY 

VIA    RIO    GRANDE   SOUTHERN    RAILROAD. 


EAVING  Durango  via  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  line,  the  tourist 
is  whisked  across  the  Rio  de  Las  Animas  up  Lightner  Creek,  past 
the  silver  and  gold  smelters  with  their  seething  furnaces  and  smoke 
and  dust-begrimed  workmen,  and  shortly  past  the  famous  coal 
banks  where  the  black  diamond  is  dug  from  the  bowels  of  Mother 
Earth,  and  from  there  hauled  to  the  smelters  where  it  is  used  for  the 
reduction  and  refining  of  its  more  exalted,  but  not  more  useful  brethren. 

Up  through  the  valley  the  train  speeds  along  among  huge  pines  which  thus  far 
have  escaped  the  woodman's  axe,  and  which  will  be  free  from  such  invasion  as 
long  as  Uncle  Sam  claims  this  particular  spot  as  the  especial  reservation  for  the 
abandoned  military  post  at  old  Fort  Lewis. 

From  Fort  Lewis  the  line  passes  through  seemingly  endless  forests  of  pine 
tree-,  and  after  the  reservation  is  passed  an  occasional  saw-mill  is  sighted.  De- 
scending the  mountain  into  the  valley,  the  beholder  looks  out  on  a  broad  expanse 
of  fertile,  well-watered  country,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  snow-capped  moun- 
tains, and  dotted  with  the  rancheros  of  the  hardy  pioneer,  who  has  been  well  repaid 
for  his  daring  in  locating  in  this  far-away  but  beautiful  valley,  by  its  productive- 
ness, and  now  that  the  railroad,  that  greatest  of  all  civilizers,  has  come,  he  has 
abundant  opportunities  for  the  disposition  of  his  products. 

One  of  the  most  attractive  portions  of  Colo- 
rado, to  the  scientist,  antiquarian,  and  indeed  the 
general  tourist,  is  that  part  in  which  are  found 
the  cliff-dwellings  of  a  long  extinct  race.  Some 
of  the  most  remarkable  of  these  ancient  ruins  are 
situated  in  the  Mancos  Canon,  but  a  few  miles  from 
Manci  is  station,  and  within  a  day's  ride  of  Durango. 
A  brief  description  of  one  of  these  will  serve  .1  .1 
1  harai  terization  of  all.     Perched  seven  hundred  feet 


The 
Cliff  Dwellings. 

Relics  of  a  Pre=Historic 
Race. 

Ruins  Older  than 
History. 


above  the  vallev,  on  a  little  ledge  only  just  large  enough  to  hold  it,  stands  a  two-story 
house  made  of  finely  cut  sandstone,  each  block  about  fourteen  by  six  inches,  accu] 
ale  lv  fitted  and  set  in  mortar,  now  harder  than  the  stone-  itself.  The  floor  is  the 
ledge  of  the  rock,  and  the  roof  the  overhanging  cliff.  There  are  there  rooms  on 
the  ground  floor,  each  one  six  by  nine  feet,  with  partition  walls  of  faced  stone. 
Traces  of  a  floor  which  once  separated  the  upper  from  the  lower  storv  still  remain. 
Each  of  the  stories  is  six  feet  in  height,  and  all  the  room-,  are  nicely  plastered  and 
painted,  what  now  looks  a  dull  brick-red  color,  with  a  while  band  along  the  floor. 
The  windows  an-  "T"  shaped  apertures  with  no  signs  of  glazing,  commanding 
a  view  of  the  whole  vallev  for  many  miles.  <  )ne  of  our  illustrations  shows  a  forti- 
fied watch-tower,  indicating  that  these  strange  cliff-dwelling  people  were-  prepared 
to  resist  assault.     Traditions  are  few  and  of  history  then-  is  nothing  concerning 

i-5 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  1 27 

this  lost  race.  Their  ruined  houses  only  remain,  and  some  broken  fragments  of  tin- 
implements  made  use  of  in  war  and  peace.  Researches  are  in  progress  com  eming 
these  extremely  interesting  ruins  and  new  facts  are  being  developed  concerning  their 
architecture;  hut  it  is  quite  improbable  thai  any  certain  light  will  ever  l>e  thrown 
on  their  origin  or  history. 

To  the  south  of  Mancos  station,  within  a  day's  ride,  and  easily  accessible,  are 
the  principal  ruins  of  the  strange  habitations  of  this  extinct  and  mysterious  rac< 
To  those  seeking  curiosities  and  wonders,  the  great  Canon  of  the  Mancos,  the 
Montezuma  Valley,  the  McElmo  Canon,  the  Lower  Animas  Valley,  and  the  Chaco 
Canon  are  the  wonderlands  of  the  world.  They  contain  thousands  of  homes,  and 
a  town  of  the  ancient  race  of  Mound  Builders  and  "Cliff  Dwellers,"  that  has 
attracted  the  curious  ever  since  the  discovery  of  America.  The  Mancos  Canon 
contains  hundreds  of  these  homes  which  were  built  and  occupied  thousands  of 
years  ago.  Yet  many  of  them  are  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  and  in  them 
have  been  found  many  specimens  of  pottery  and  implements  of  husbandry  and 
warfare.  This  canon  is  cut  through  Mesa  Verde,  a  distance  of  thirty  miles,  and  the 
walls  on  either  side  rise  to  a  perpendicular  height  of  two  thousand  feet.  These 
cliff  dwellings  arc  built  in  the  sides  of  the  canon,  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  Fif- 
teen miles  farther  west  from  the  Mancos  is  situated  the  Montezuma  Valley,  where 
thousands  of  fine  specimens  of  pottery  have  been  found  among  the  ruins  of  that 
ancient  people.  On  the  west  side  of  this  valley  is  the  McElmo  Canon,  also  full  of 
the  ancient  homes  of  the  "Cliff  Dwellers."  Thirty-five  miles  south  of  Durango,  in 
the  valley  of  the  Animas,  are  some  extensive  ruins  of  the  Aztecs,  and  fifty  miles 
farther  south  are  the  wonderful  ruins  in  the  Chaco  Canon.  These  ancient  Pueblos 
are,  without  doubt,  the  most  extensive  and  the  best  preserved  of  any  in  the  United 
States.  Of  these  Professor  Hayden,  in  his  report  of  the  Geological  Survey  of  the 
United  States  for  the  year  1866,  says:  "The  great  ruins  in  the  Chaco  Canon  are 
pre-eminently  the  finest  examples  of  the  works  of  the  unknown  builders  to  be  found 
north  of  the  seat  of  ancient  Aztec  Empire  in  Mexico."  There  are  eleven  extensive 
Pueblos  in  this  canon,  nearly  all  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  and  their  appear- 
ance indicates  that  they  were  once  the  home  of  fifteen  hundred  to  three  thousand 
people  each.  From  the  thousands  of  ruins  of  cities,  towns,  and  families  found 
throughout  this  great  San  Juan  Valley,  it  is  evident  that  once  this  great  valley  was 
the  home  of  hundreds  of  thousands  of  this  extinct  race.  That  they  were  a 
peaceful  and  agricultural  race  of  people  is  evidenced  by  the  large  number  of  their 
implements  of  husbandry  and  the  specimens  of  corn  and  beans  found  in  these 
ruins,  besides  irrigating  ditches  and  reservoirs  for  the  storage  of  water. 

MailCOS.  The  debarking  point  for  the  cliff  ruins  as  mentioned  above 
and  the  leading  town  of  the  valley.  Shipping  point  for  large  numbers  of  cattle 
and  sheep.  (Distance  from  Denver,  490  miles.  Population,  500.  Elevation, 
7,008  feet.) 

Leaving  Mancos,  the  road  winds  up  the  sloping  sides  of  a  flat-topped  mountain, 
and  there  on  its  summit,  among  huge  pines  centuries  old,  bubbles  up  a  clear,  cold 
spring  of  sparkling  water,  forming  the  stream  that  flows  down  through  the  beautiful 
Lost  Canon,  and  which  is  called  by  the  unpoetic  name  of  "  Lost  Canon  Creek." 

Lost  Canon  is  a  novelty  in  itself,  as  its  sides  are  densely  wooded  and  softly 
carpeted  with  a  thick  bed  of  moss  and  leaves,  beautifully  colored  by  millions  of 
Colorado  wild  flowers  whose  delicate  beauty  is  unrivaled. 

Emerging  from  Lost  Canon  the  traveler  is  whirled  up  to  the  beautiful  Valley 
of  the  Dolores  River,  with  its  many  ranches  and  farms,  past  the  town  of  the  same 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  129 

name.     Off  to  the  left,  flowing  to  the  eastward,  comes  bubbling  down  the  mountain 

side  into  the  larger  river,  the  West  Dolores,  and  no  more  famous  or  prolific  troul 
stream  exists  than  this. 

Dolores.  One  of  the  principal  towns  in  Southwestern  Colorado.  It  is 
the  shipping-point  for  the  southeastern  part  of  Utah  and  from  whence  the  gold 
hunters  start  on  their  prospecting  trips  to  the  canons  of  the  San  Juan  and  Colo- 
rado Rivers.  (Population,  300.  Distance  frc.n  Denver,  511  miles.  Elevation, 
6,957  feet.) 

Dolores  Canon.  Continuing  on  up  the  main  river,  the  valley  begins  to 
narrow  down,  until  we  are  once  more  within  the  walls  of  a  canon  which  takes  its 
name  from  the  stream  flowing  through  it.  While  this  canon  is  not  particularly 
deep,  its  natural  beauties  are  manifold  and  are  sure  to  make  a  lasting  and  delightful 
impression  on  the  beholder. 

Rushing  out  of  the  canon  the  tourist  is  now  landed  at  Rico. 

Kico  is  one  of  the  most  important  mining  towns  of  the  State,  whose  mines 
dot  the  mountain  sides,  and  whose  product  is  packed  to  the  cars  on  the  backs  of 
the  ever  patient  and  faithful  burro,  without  which  no  mining  camp  can  be  complete. 

Rico  ranks  among  the  "cities  of  the  first  class"  and  has  all  the  facilities  and 
improvements  of  a  town  of  ten  times  its  population.  Its  principal  industries  are 
those  connected  with  mining  interests,  though  considerable  agricultural  country 
surrounc.i  it.  The  town  is  located  in  what  was  at  one  time  the  crater  of  a  large 
volcano.  Precipitous  mountains  with  poetic  names  arise  upon  all  sides  of  it, 
gradually  widening,  until  by  describing  a  circle  of  their  summits  they  appear  as 
the  top  of  a  huge  funnel.  Among  them  is  the  famous  Telescope  Mountain,  a 
freak  of  nature  only  to  be  seen  to  form  a  proper  realization  of  the  aptness  of  its 
name.  The  place  has  much  of  historic  interest,  as  evidences  of  early  Spanish  dis- 
coveries are  found  on  many  sides.  (Population,  1,000.  Distance  from  Denver, 
via  Ridgway,  443;  via  Durango,  547  miles.     Elevation,  8,737  feet.) 

Lizard  Head  Pass.  Leaving  Rico,  the  line  continues  up  the  Dolores, 
which  grows  smaller  and  smaller,  until  it  becomes  a  mere  silver  thread  winding 
in  and  out  among  huge  rocks  and  boulders.  Thirteen  miles  north  of  Rico,  and 
after  climbing  many  miles  of  three  and  four  per  cent  grades,  the  summit  of  the 
Lizard  Head  Pass  is  reached  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  11,000  feet.  From  the  sum- 
mit and  to  the  left  will  be  seen  the  Lizard  Head,  a  peculiar  rock  formation  capping 
a  tall,  bare  mountain.  This  rock  derives  it>  name  from  its  resemblance  to  the  head 
of  a  mountain  lizard,  though  at  the  same  time  it  may  be  said  to  resemble  the  shaft 
of  some  large  monument. 

Descending  the  pass  through  the  mountain  gorges  pver  rushing  mountain 
streams,  one  finds  one's  self  at 

Trout  Lake.  No  more  graphic  description  of  this  sheet  of  beautiful  blue 
water  can  be  given  than  a  verse  from  a  poem  by  "  H.  H." 

"The  mountains  wall  in  the  water; 

It  looks  like  a  great  blue  cup; 
And  the  sky  looks  like  another 
Turned  over,  bottom  side  up." 

Here  the  sport-inclined  tourist  may  spend  a  few  days,  for  the  lake  is  inhabited 
by  thousands  and  thousands  of  mountain  troul.  Accommodations  of  a  primitive. 
though  wholesome  character,  can  be  obtained  of  the  neighboring  ranchmen.  (Popu 
lation,  nominal.  Distance  from  Denver,  via  Ridgway,  427  miles;  via  Durango, 
563  miles.     Elevation,  9,802  feet.) 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GAIL.  131 

Shortly  after  leaving  Trout  Lake,  the  famous 

Opllir  Loop  is  passed.  Here  the  skill  of  the  engineer  was  taxed  to  its 
Utmost,  for  the  track  winds  in  zigzags  down  the  mountainside,  rushing  through 
a  deep  cut  here,  over  a  mountain  torrent  and  a  high  bridge  there,  darting  around 
sharp  curves,  in  and  out  of  snowsheds,  until  on  the  opposite  mountain  and  high 
above  us  is  to  be  seen  a  line  of  freshly  turned  earth,  which  the  knowing  ones  say 
is  the  track  over  which  we  have  just  passed. 

From  Vance  «JuiH'tioil  a  side  trip  of  ten  miles,  which  will  repay  the 
tourist,  can  be  made  to 

TelluruU',  a  mining  town  of  some  3,500  inhabitants,  nestling  among  snow- 
capped mountains,  rising  to  stupendous  heights,  and  rich  in  gold  and  silver.  Like 
all  the  towns  of  the  San  Juan,  mining  is  the  principal  resource  of  the  city;  at  Tellu- 
ride  are  located  some  of  the  largest  and  richest  mines  in  the  country.  (Distani  e 
from  Denver,  via  Ridgway,  423  miles;     Elevation,  8,756  feet.) 

From  Vance  Junction  the  journey  is  continued  down  the  San  Miguel  River, 
past  Placerville,  the  debarking  point  for  the  famous  Paradox  Valley  and  the  rich 
copper-mining  district  of  the  Blue  and  La  Sal  mountains,  until  the  river  leaves  the 
rail,  and  again  we  commence  to  go  up;  this  time  over  the  Dallas  Divide.  This 
pass  resembles  Marshall  Pass,  though  not  quite  so  long.  After  reaching  the  sum- 
mit, the  line  runs  down  the  eastern  slope  along  Leopard  Creek,  high  above  it  on 
the  mountainside,  giving  a  most  magnificent  view  of  the  Uncompahgre  Range 
to  the  south  with  its  gentle  slopes  softly  colored  by  the  deep,  dark  foliage  of  dense 
pine  and  fir  forests  gradually  rising  until  the  mountains  develop  into  a  huge  mass 
of  shattered  pinnacles,  their  topmost  points  covered  with  the  everlasting  snow. 

Ridgpway.  This  bustling  little  town  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Rio 
Grande  Southern  Railroad,  and  its  junction  point  with  the  Ouray  branch  of  the 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The  shops  and  headquarters  are  here,  giving 
employment  to  a  large  portion  of  its  inhabitants.  A  fine  agncultural,  as  well  as  a 
very  rich  mining  region,  surround  Ridgway,  and  give  promise  of  making  it  a  large 
and  prosperous  city.  (Distance  from  Denver,  377  miles;  via  Durango,  613  miles. 
Population,  i,coo.     Elevation,  7,002  feet.) 


'., 


mA~  "A^ 


iT^^g 


CATHEDRAL   SPIRE— OPHIR   LOOP. 


SILVERTON  TO  MONTROSE. 


^HE  trip  from  Silvcrton  to  Montrose,  across  the  intervening  range  of 
mountains,   is  not  at  all   the  difficult   undertaking  it   looks  to  be. 


Here,  blocking  the  way,  is  one  of  the  most  rugged  and  lofty  chains 
of  the  great  Rocky  Mountain  systems,  which  but  recently  only  the 
adventurous  prospector  and  his  sure-footed  burro  (donkey)  dared  to 
cross;  but  now  the  journey  has  been  rendered  an  easy  accomplish- 
ment by  the  building  of  the  Silvcrton  Railway,  from  Silvcrton  to  Red  Mountain, 
from  which  point  comfortable  stages  carry  the  tourist  a  distance  of  twelve  miles  to 
Ouray,  where  the  trip  is  continued  by  way  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad. 
The  construction  of  the  Silvcrton  Railway  was  a  task  of  great  magnitude,  and  one 
remarkable  feature  about  it  is  that  it  owes  its  existence  to  the  enterprise  and  daring 
of  one  man,  Mr.  Otto  Means,  the  "pathfinder"  of  the  San  Juan.  The  result  has 
been  one  of  the  most  remarkable  achievements  in  engineering  of  modern  times. 
The  road  has  the  same  gauge  as  that  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande,  and  like  it 
finds  no  grade  so  stubborn  as  to  be  insurmountable.  Taking  the  cars  at  the  Den- 
ver &:  Rio  Grande  depot,  at  Silvcrton,  the  ascent  of  the  mountains  is  at  once 
begun.  There  is  no  preliminary  skirmishing  along  level  ground,  for  Silverton  lies 
at  the  bottom  of  a  bowl-shaped  valley,  and  the  mountains  rise  round  about  on  all 
sides  to  tremendous  heights.  With  curves,  whose  sinuosity  surpasses  that  of  the 
serpent's  trail,  the  railroad  climbs  up  the  gulches,  until  at  the  mining  station  of 
Chattanooga  the  track  makes  an  almost  perfect  loop,  the  cars  traveling  several  miles 
forward  and  the  same  distance  back — and  there  lies  Chattanooga  directly  beneath 
us!  All  that  has  been  gained  is  altitude.  This  is  equivalent,  however,  to  a  direct 
progress  of  a  thousand  feet,  though  it  has  taken  a  journey  of  fifteen  thousand  feet 
to  accomplish  it.  At  the  summit  of  the  range  the  railroad  reaches  an  altitude  of 
11,235  feet,  and  the  view  is  something  to  be  remembered  a  lifetime.  At  one  point 
of  the  descent  it  has  been  necessary  to  construct  a  switch-back  reversing  the  course 
of  the  train,  and  yet  continuing  the  descent.  This  switch-back  is  a  novel  applica- 
tion of  engineering  science,  and  is  an  exceedingly  interesting  piece  of  railroad 
work.  The  ascent  and  descent  of  Red  Mountain  by  this  wonderful  railway,  give 
the  tourist  not  only  an  opportunity  to  behold  the  grandest  of  mountain  scenery, 
bat  also  the  privilege  of  witnessing  on  all  sides  the  progress  of  mining  operations, 
The  shafts,  shaft  houses,  tunnels,  and  "prospect"  holes  of  mines  in  fact  or  in 
futuro,  are  to  be  seen  on  all  sides.  The  mines  of  Red  Mountain  arc  numerous,  and 
several  of  them  rank  among  the  richest  in  the  world. 

A  Romantic  Stage  Ride.  The  stage  ride  forms  one  of  the  most 
attractive  features  of  this  most  attractive  journey.  Lasting  only  three  hours,  pass- 
ing over  the  summits  of  ranges  and  through  the  depths  of  canons,  the  tourist  will 
find  this  a  welcome  variation  to  his  method  of  travel,  and  a  great  relief  and  recrea- 
tion. The  old-fashioned  stage,  with  all  its  romantic  associations,  is  rapidly  becom- 
ing a  thing  of  the  past.  A  year  or  two  more  and  it  will  have  disappeared  entirely 
from  Colorado.     Here,  in  the  midst  of  some  of  the  grandest  scenery  on  the  conti- 

133 


x34 


OVER    THE   RAXGE 


nent,  the  blue  sky  above,  and  the  fresh,  pure  exhilarating  mountain  air  sending  the 
blood  bounding  through  one's  veins,  to  clamber  into  a  Concord  coach  and  be 
whirled  along  a  splendidly  constructed  road,  as  solid  as  the  living  rock  from  which 
it  has  been  carved  at  an  expense  in  some  instances  of  $40,000  a  mile,  and  as  smooth 
as  a  city  boulevard,  is  surely  a  novel  and  delightful  experience.  The  scenery  on 
this  journey  between  Silverton  and  Ouray  is  of  the  greatest  magnificence.  This  is 
especially  true  of  this  portion  of  the  route  traversed  by  stage.  The  Silverton  and 
Ouray  toll  road  has  long  been  noted  for  its  attractions  in  the  way  of  scenery,  the 
triangular  mass  of  Mount  Abraham's  towers  to  the  left,  while  the  road  winds 
around  the  curves  of  the  hills  with  the  sinuosity  of  a  mountain  brook. 


SIERRA   BLANCA. 


Bear  Creek  Falls.  The  scene  from  the  bridge  over  Bear  Creek  is  one 
which  once  beheld  can  never  be  forgotten.  Directly  under  the  bridge  plunges  a 
cataract  to  the  depth  of  two  hundred  and  fifty-three  feet,  forming  a  most  note- 
worthy and  impressive  scene.  The  toll  road  passes  through  one  of  the  most  famous 
mining  regions  in  the  world,  and  the  fame  of  Red  Mountain  is  well  deserved,  both 
from  the  number  and  richness  of  its  mines.  Before  Ouray  is  reached  the  road 
passes  through  Uncompahgre  Canon.  Here  the  roadbed  has  been  blasted  from 
the  solid  rock  wall  of  the  gorge,  and  a  scene  similar  in  nature  and  rivaling  in 
grandeur  that  of  Animas  Canor  is  beheld. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  beautifully  situated 
towns  to  be  found  anywhere.  Its  scenery  is  idyllic. 
The  village  is  cradled  in  a  lovely  valley,  sur- 
rounded by  rugged  mountains.  The  situation  of 
the  town  is  thus  briefly  described  in  the  Crest  o)  Ike 
Continent:  "The  valley  in  which  the  town  is  built 
is  pear-shaped,  its  greatest  width  being  not  more 
than  half  a  mile  while  its  length  is  about  twice  that 
down  to  the  mouth  of  the  canon.  Southward — that 
is,  toward  the  heart  of  the  main  range — stand  the 
two  great  peaks,  Hardin  and  Hayden.  Between  is 
the  deep  gorge  down  which  the  Uncompahgre  finds  its  way;  but  this  is 
hidden    from     view    by    a    ridge    which    walls    in    the    town    and    cuts   off    all 


OURAY. 

The  Gem  of  the  Rockies. 

Health  and  Pleasure 
Resort. 

Elevation,  7,721  feet. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
388  miles. 

Population,  3,000. 


BEAR    CREEK   FALLS. 


36 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


the  further  view  from  it  in  that  direction,  save  where  the  triangular  top  of 
Mount  Abrams  peers  over.  Westward  ere  grouped  a  series  of  broken  ledges, 
surmounted  by  greater  and  more  rugged  heights.  Down  between  these  and  the 
western  foot  of  Mount  Hayden  struggles  Canon  Creek  to  join  the  Uncompahgre; 
while  Oak  Creek  leaps  down  a  line  of  cataracts  from  a  notch  in  the  terraced  heights 
through  which  the  quadrangular  head  of  White  House  Mountain  becomes  grandly 
discernible — the  eastermost  buttress  of  the  wintry  Sierra  San  Miguel.  At  the 
lower  side  of  the  basin,  where  the  path  of  the  river  is  beset  with  close  canon-walls, 
the  cliffs  rise  vertical  from  the  level  of  the  village,  and  bear  their  forest  growth 
many  hundreds  of  feet  above.     These  mighty  walls,  two  thousand  feet  high  in  some 


CHIEFS   OF   THE   UNCOMPAHGRE    UTES. 


places,  are  of  metamorphic  rock,  and  their  even  stratification  simulates  courses  of 
well-ordered  masonry.  Stained  by  iron  and  probably  also  by  manganese,  they  are 
a  deep  red  maroon;  this  color  does  not  lie  uniformly,  however,  but  is  stronger  in 
some  layers  than  in  others,  so  that  the  whole  face  of  the  cliff  is  banded  horizontally 
in  pale  rust  color,  or  dull  crimson,  or  deep  and  opaque  maroon.  The  western  clitf 
is  baie,  but  on  the  more  frequent  ledges  of  the  eastern  wall  scattered  spruces  grow, 
and  add  to  its  attractiveness.  Yet,  as  though  Nature  meant  to  teach  that  a  bit  of 
motion, — a  suggestion  of  glee  was  needed  to  relieve  the  somberness  of  utter  immo- 
bility and  grandeur,  however  shapely,  she  has  led  to  the  sunlight,  by  a  crevice 
in  the  upper  part  of  the  eastern  wall  that  we  cannot  see,  a  brisk  torrent  draining 
the  snowfields  of  some  distant  plateau.  This  little  stream,  thus  beguiled  by  the 
fair  channel  that  led  it  through  the  spruce  woods  above,  has  no  time  to  think  of  its 
fate,  but  it  is  flung  out  over  the  sheer  precipice,  eighty  feet  into  the  valley  below. 


138  OVER   THE  RANGE 

We  see  the  white  ghost  of  its  descending,  and  always  to  our  ears  is  murmured  the 
voice  of  the  Naiads,  who  are  taking  the  breathless  plunge.  Yet  by  what  means  the 
stream  reaches  that  point  from  above  cannot  be  seen,  and  the  picture  is  that  of  a 
strong  jet  of  water  bursting  from  an  orifice  through  the  crimson  wall,  and  falling 
into  rainbow-arched  mist  and  a  tangle  of  grateful  foliage  that  hides  its  further 
flowing." 

The  town  has  one  hotel  of  great  magnificence  worthy  of  a  city  of  ten  times  its 
population,  besides  a  good  supply  of  other  hostelrics  of  a  less  splendid  character. 
Ouray  is  a  health  resort  worthy  of  patronage  by  invalids,  possessing  hot  springs  of 
a  fine  medicinal  character  and  abounding  in  attractions  to  divert  the  mind.  Plenty 
of  sport  can  be  had  about  here.  The  mountain  sheep  and  wapiti  have  not  yet  been 
killed  off;  deer  and  trout  are  abundant.  The  rides  up  the  roads  and  trails  to 
neighboring  mines  and  mining  camps,  through  valley  and  canon,  and  over  moun- 
tain and  mesa,  are  not  soon  exhausted,  and  the  lover  of  botany  or  geology,  or  the 
student  of  mineralogy  and  mining,  could  scarcely  find  a  finer  held  anywhere  than 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Ouray. 

Ouray  to  MontrOSC  Leaving  Ouray,  a  ride  of  thirty-six  miles,  via  the 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  brings  the  traveler  to  Montrose,  on  the  main  nar- 
row-gauge line  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  between  Denver  and  Salt 
Lake  City.  Two  miles  from  Ouray  the  country  begins  to  become  open  and  soon 
one  is  passing  through  farms  and  an  excellent  agricultural  valley.  En  route  one 
passes  the  confluence  of  the  Uncompahgre  and  Dallas,  and  the  mesas  and  terraces 
on  either  side  abound  with  almost  every  species  of  game,  deer,  elk,  mountain  sheep, 
bear,  and  smaller  animals. 

Ridjjway.  Eleven  miles  from  Ouray.  The  junction  point  with  the 
Rio  Grande  Southern  Railroad.  A  description  of  this  charming  little  city  will 
be  found  elsewhere  in  this  volume.  -Further  on,  twenty-two  miles  from  Ouray, 
you  come  to  the  old  Los  Pirios  Agency,  where  Chiefs  Douglas,  Jack,  Colorow, 
Piah,  and  other  Indians  who  participated  in  the  massacre  of  Thornburg  and 
the  Meekers,  tested  the  nerve  of  General  Hatch  and  his  associates  in  1879.  The 
store-house,  council  chamber,  etc.,  are  still  standing.  The  abandoned  site  of  old 
Fort  Crawford  is  passed  twenty-six  miles  from  Ouray,  and  live  miles  further  on,  one 
reaches  the  residence  of  Chipeta,  the  widow  of  Ouray,  the  dead  Ute  chief,  who, 
during  his  reign,  held  the  Utes  in  check,  and  was  always  the  friend  of  the  white  man. 
At  Montrose  the  tourist  can  again  take  the  main  narrow-gauge  line  of  the  Denver  & 
Rio  Grande  Railroad  and  resume  the  trans-continental  journey. 


TWIN    LAKES. 


LEADVILLE  TO  DILLON. 


ROCKY   MOUNTAIN    BEAUTY  SPOT. 

From  Leadville  a  branch  line  of 
the  widely  radiating  Denver  and  Rio 
Grande  system  extends  over  Fremont 
Pass  to  Dillon.  The  general  direction 
taken  by  the  line  is  to  the  northeast, 
with  a  deflection  from  Frisco  to  Dillon 
to  tin'  northwest.  The  Great  Middle 
Park  of  Colorado  lies  to  the  north  of  Dil- 
lon, just  over  the  range  of  the  Williams 
River  Mountains.  The  country  between 
Leadville  and  Dillon  is  extremely  moun- 
tainous, and  mines  of  great  value  have 
been  discovered  in  this  region.  The  rail- 
road crosses  the  Park  Range  at  Fremont 
Pass,  and  in  the  valley  at  the  foot  of  the 
pass  the  Arkansas  River  has  its  sou  ires'! 
The  blue  river  heads  on  the  Pacific  slope 
near  the  pass,  and  the  south  branch  is 
crossed  by  the  railroad  near  the  small 
station  of  Wheeler,  the  north  branch  is  encountered  at  Frisco  in  the  vicinity  of  which 
the  two  join  and  form  the  main  stream,  which  empties  into  the  Grand  in  the  south- 
west corner  of  Middle  Park. 

The  ride  from  Leadville  to  Fremont  Pass  is  one  of  great  interest  to  lovers  of 


140 


Ill 


142  OVER    THE   RANGE 

the  grand  and  beautiful  in  nature.  The  mountain  ranges  which  surround  the  "Car- 
bonate Camp"  are  in  plain  view,  and  every  turn  in  the  road  reveals  new  attrac- 
tions. This  extension  of  the  line  is  known  as  the  Blue  River  branch.  It  is  thirty- 
six  miles  in  length,  with  its  terminus  at  Dillon.  The  intervening  stations  are 
Bird's  Eye,  Alicante,  Fremont  Pass,  Robinson,  Kokomo,  Wheeler,  Frisco,  and  Dillon 
Source  of  the  Arkansas.  The  line  from  Leadville  follows  up  the 
Arkansas  River,  and  here  we  have  an  object  lesson  in  the  growth  of  rivers.  We 
see  from  what  small  beginnings  great  things  in  the  way  of -water  courses  grow. 
We  see  how  a  little  brook  which  one  could  dam  with  a  couple  of  shovels  of  mud 
may  push  its  way  along,  "undermining  what  it  cannot  overthrow;  sliding  around 
the  obstacle  that  deemed  itself  impassable,  losing  itself  in  willowy  bogs,  tumbling 
headlong  over  the  error  of  a  precipice  or  getting  heedlessly  entrapped  in  a  confined 
canon,  escaping  down  a  gorge  with  indescribable  turmoil,  and  always  growing 
bigger,  bigger,  broader,  and  stronger,  deeper  and  more  dignified;  till  it  can  leave 
the  mountains  and  strike' boldly  across  a  thousand  miles  of  untracked  plain  to 
'fling  its  proud  heart  into  the  sea.'  " 

Almost  ''n  the  very  springs  of  the  river,  where  an  amphitheatre  of  gray  quartzite 
peaks  stand  like  stiffened  silver-gray  curtains  between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific, 
we  curl  round  a  perfect  shepherd's  crook  of  a  curve,  and  then  climb  its  straight 
staff  to  the  summit  of  Fremont  Pass. 

Through  a  charming  valley  the  approach  to 
Fremont  Pass  is  made.  A  famous  pass,  with  the 
historic  name  of  him  who  has  been  called  "The 
Pathfinder,"  although  a  later  day  has  witnessed 
greater  achievements  than  his  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  A  journey  here  deserves  the  title  of  a 
pilgrimage,  for  from  the  summit  of  this  pass  the 
traveler  can  discern  the  Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross. 
The  scene  is  one  replete  with  vivid  interest.  Fainter 
and  fainter  grow  the  lines  of  objects  in  the  valley, 
until  at  last  the  clouds  envelope  the  train,  and  at  the  next  moment  the  observer 
looks  down  upon  a  rolling  mass  of  vapor  through  which  the  light  strikes  in  many 
colored  beams.  The  sublimity, of  the  scene  forbids  all  thoughts  other  than  those 
of  reverence  and  rapture. 

"The  snow-crowned  monarchs  of  an  upper  world, 
Rugged  and  steep  and  bare,  the  mountains  rise' 
Their  very  feet  are  planted  in  the  skies; 
Adown  their  sides  are  avalanches  hurled. 

"Time  was  when  few  and  daring  were  the  men 
Who  might  behold  this  pass  that  Fremont  gained 
Through  toil  and  danger,  and  its  heights  attained, 
Perils  beset  the  long  leagues  down  again. 

"Now  all  may  come  who  seek,  afar  from  crowds, 
The  grand  in  nature,  for  we  now  engage 
The  potent  genii  of  this  iron  age,  ' 

Fire,  steam,  and  steel,  and  rise  above  the  clouds!" 

The  railroad  crosses  the  pass  at  an  elevation  of  about  two  miles  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  ranks  among  the  highest  railroad  passes  in  the  world. 

Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross.  From  the  crest  of  Fremont  Pass  the 
traveler  looks  eagerly  about  and  soon  catches  sight  of  the  sacred  symbol  which 
gives  name  to   the   famous  mount.     The  snow-white  emblem  of  Christian   faith 


FREMONT  PASS. 

One  of  the  highest 

Railroad  Passes  in  the 

World. 

Elevation,  11,330  feet. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


'43 


gleams  with  bright  splendor  against  the  azure  sky.  The  wayfarer  at  last  realizes 
that  he  has  reached  the  height  "around  whose  summit  splendid  visions  rise." 
This  is  one  of  the  best  points  of  view  from  which  to  behold  this  wonderful  moun- 
tain, a  more  extended  description  of  which  will  be  found  in  the  chapter  entitled, 
"From  Leadville  to  Aspen." 


Downward  to 
Dillon.  On  the  Pacific 
Slope  are  the  mines  which 
made    this    region    famous. 

Moving  on  down  the 
pleasant  valley,  whose  level 
bottom  is  carbonate  tinted, 
not  with  ore  dust,  but  with 
an  almost  continuous  thick- 
et of  stunted  red  willows,  we 
pass  the  Chalk  Mountain 
mines,  the  Carbonate  Hill 
district,  Clinton  Gulch 
where  gold  ore  is  alleged  to 
be  worth  more  attention 
than  it  is  receiving,  and  so 
come  to  Elk  Mountain  and 
Kokomo.  The  ore  found 
here  is  a  hard  carbonate, 
running  about  twenty-five 
ounces  in  silver  and  twenty- 
five  per  cent  in  lead,  be- 
sides a  third  of  an  ounce 
in  gold,  which  is  carefully 
separated  at  the  smelter. 
Much  of  it  is  so  admirably 
constituted  that  it  "smelts 
itself," — that  is,  it  requires 
little  or  no  addition  of  lead, 
iron,  and  other  accessories 
to  its  proper  fluxion.  Con- 
tinuing the  journey  we  lie- 
hold  alluring  pictures  of 
mountains  and  canons,  of 
belts  of  timber  and  pleasant 
uplands,  of  green  meadows 
and  sparkling  streams  be- 
loved of  gamey  trout  and 
the  haunts  of  deer  and  elk. 
This  country  is  a  paradise  for  the  sportsman,  and  the  rod  and  gun  find  ample  range. 

Dillon  is  the  terminus  of  the  Blue  River  branch  and  is  situated  in  a  mining 
country.  The  station  is  the  nearest  point  for  the  lower  Blue  River  Valley,  into 
which  good  roads  extend.  Saddle  horses  and  wagons  can  be  hired  to  go  down 
this  river  into  the  hunting  and  fishing  grounds  of  Middle  Park.  (Population,  300. 
Distance  from  Denver,  312  miles.     Elevation,  8,859  feet.) 


CASCADES   OF  THE   BLUE. 


OGDEN  TO  SAN   FRANCISCO 


QGDEN. 

Railroad  and  r\anufac= 
turing  Town. 

Population,  32,000. 

Elevation,  4,293  feet. 

Distance  from  Denver, 

via  Harshall  Pass  Line, 

753  miles. 

Via  Standard  OaugeLine, 

778  miles. 

Distance  from  San 
Francisco,  883  miles. 


At  Ogden  the  tourist  changes  from  the  line  of 
the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  system  to  that  of  the 
Southern  Pacific,  both  lines  using  the  magnificent 
new  Union  Station.  The  train  service  of  the  two 
lines  is  continuous  and  no  change  of  cars  is  necessary. 
A  glance  around  will  show  one  that  Ogden  is  beau- 
tifully situated  on  the  west  slope  of  the  Wasatch 
Mountains.  It  is  well  laid  out  and  substantially 
built;  the  streets  are  wide,  regular,  well  paved,  lined 
with  shade  and  ornamental  trees,  and  lighted  with 
electricity.  By  a  good  system  of  water  works  the 
mountain  streams  and  springs  are  made  to  supply 
an  abundance  of  pure  water.  Many  of  the  private 
residences  and  grounds  are  very  handsome,  and  the  business  blocks  solid  and  ele- 
gantly constructed.  Of  the  climate  too  much  cannot  be  said.  Utah  claims  the 
finest  climate  in  the  United  States.  Colorado  makes  the  same  assertion;  so  does 
California.  There  is  no  doubt  that  each  of  these  great  commonwealths  has  good 
grounds  for  its  claims.  Colorado  and  Utah  have  similar  characteristics,  while 
California  is  quite  different;  circumstances  are  said  to  alter  cases,  and  this  saying 
holds  true  in  climate  as  well  as  in  other  matters.  While  the  climate  of  Colorado 
or  Utah  might  be  a  specific  for  one  class  of  diseases,  that  of  California  might  be 
much  more  beneficial  for  another  class.  The  advice  ot  an  intelligent  and  unpre- 
judiced physician  should  be  taken  before  an  invalid  decides  on  his  choice  of  loca- 
tion. In  Utah  the  winters  are  short  and  mild,  and  the  spring  and  fall  months  give 
almost  perfect  weather;  the  summers  are  warm,  but  not  oppressively  hot,  and  the 
nights  are  always  cool  and  never  moist.  Pulmonary  troubles  will  surely  find 
relief,  and  generally  a  cure.  Ten  miles  north  of  Ogden  are  Hot  Springs,  whose 
sulphur  water  possesses  peculiar  medicinal  properties,  and  are  pronounced  superioi 
to  the  Arkansas  Springs.  Hundreds  of  invalids  visit  these  springs  annually,  and 
they  are  steadily  growing  in  popularity.  The  educational  and  religious  advan- 
tages of  Ogden  are  on  a  par  with  those  of  eastern  cities  of  the  same  size.  Here  is 
the  center  of  one  of  the  richest  agricultural  and  mining  districts  of  Utah.  Ogden 
has  better  railroad  facilities  than  any  other  town  in  the  territory.  It  is  affection- 
ately called  by  its  inhabitants  the  "Junction  City  of  the  West."  It  is  the  terminus 
of  four  leading  trunk  lines,  namely:  The  Denver  &  Rio  Grande,  the  Union  Pacific, 
the  Southern  Pacific,  and  the  Oregon  Short  Line.  The  outlook  for  manufacturing 
is  excellent,  the  Weber  Ri .  er  furnishing  almost  unlimited  water  power.  A  large  dam 
across  this  stream  a  few  miles  from  Ogden,  provides  water  power  for  a  large  electrical 
power  plant,  and  the  electric  current  is  transmitted  to  many  manufacturing  plants  and 
mines  and  smelters.  Iron  ore  is  found  in  great  quantities  in  the  near  vicinity,  while 
the  wool  clip  of  the  territory,  and  those  of  Idaho,  Wyoming,  Montana,  and  Nevada 
is  enormous,  and  could  be  advantageously  manufactured  into  cloth  at  this  point. 

H4 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  145 

Geological  Features.  Looking  from  the  car  window  after  passing 
Ogden,  the  traveler  can  see  many  things  in  this  region  indicating  a  thrilling  geologi- 
cal history.  That  striation,  extending  along  the  side  of  the  foothills  to  the  right, 
marks  the  water-line  of  a  vast,  prehistoric  inland  sea  known  to  geologists  as  "Lake 
Bonneville,"  that  shrunk  ages  ago  to  the  comparatively  small  proportions  of  the 
present  Salt  Lake.  The  whole  area  between  the  Wasatch  Mountains  and  the  Sierra 
Nevadas  was  once  covered  by  this  immense  body  of  water,  in  which  the  mountain 
ranges  rose  as  islands.  The  lakes  of  the  present  day  are  all  that  remain  of  this  vast 
prehistoric  sea.  The  deposits  which  cover  the  lowlands  are  chiefly  calcareous, 
and  are  often  filled  with  fresh  water  and  land  shells,  indicating  a  comparatively 
modern  origin.  The  formation  of  the  islands  and  the  shore  ranges  of  Salt  Lake 
is  metamorphic,  the  strata  are  distinctly  marked  and  highly  inclined,  but  attaining 
no  great  elevation,  being  generally  overlaid  with  sandstone  and  limestone  of  the 
carboniferous  age,  but  partly  altered,  the  former  constituting  the  loftier  eminence, 
in  places  it  is  rich  in  fossils,  while  in  others  it  loses  the  granular  character,  and 
becomes  sub-crystalline  or  threaded  by  veins  of  calcareous  spar,  the  sandstones, 
from  metamorphic  action,  taking  the  character  of  quartz.  As  the  train  advances, 
evidences  of  volcanic  action  become  numerous. 

Corilllie.  Between  Ogden  and  Corinne  the  Bear  River  is  crossed  by  a 
bridge  twelve  hundred  feet  in  length.  The  town  of  Corinne  has  a  good  agricultural 
country  around  it,  and  wherever  irrigation  has  been  secured  large  crops  have 
responded  to  industrious  cultivation.  The  raising  of  stock,  is  also  a  tributary 
industry,  and  cattle  do  well  on  the  surrounding  excellent  ranges,  which  are  found 
in  the  greatest  perfection  north  of  the  town.  (Population,  500.  Distance  from 
Ogden,  24  miles.     Elevation,  4,233  feet.) 

A  small  station  surrounded  by  country  covered 
with  sage  brush,  and  only  worthy  of  mention  for  its 
history.  At  this  point,  on  Monday,  May  10,  1869, 
the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  building  west  and  the 
Central  Pacific  Railroad,  building  east,  met.  The 
junction  was  made,  and  the  news  flashed  all  over 
the  world  that  the  first  great  trans-continental  rail- 
road of  America  had  become  an  accomplished  fact. 
The  importance  of  that  event  cannot  be  overesti- 
mated, and  to  enumerate  the  results  emanating  from  that  meeting  would  be  the 
task  of  a  historian.  An  epitome  of  what  that  meeting  meant  can  be  best  expressed 
by  quoting  that  clever  and  quaintly  humorous  poem,  written  by  Bret  Ilarte,  com- 
memorative of  the  occasion,  under  the  title  of 

WHAT   THE   ENGINES    SAID. 

What  was  it  the  Engines  said, 
Pilots  touching — head  to  head, 
Facing  on  a  single  track. 
Half  a  world  behind  each  back? 
This  is  what  the  Engine 
Unreported  and  unread : 

With  a  prefatory  screech, 
In  a  florid  Western  speech, 
Said  the  Engine  from  the  West, 
"I  am  from  Sierra's  crest; 
And  if  altitude's  a  test, 
Why,  I  reckon,  it's  confessed 
That  I've  done  my  level  Koct  " 


PROMONTORY. 

A  Point  of 
Historical  Interest. 


H6  OVER    THE   RANGE 

Said  the  Engine  from  the  East . 
"They  who  work  best  talk  the  least. 
S'pose  you  whistle  down  your  brakes, 
What  you've  done  is  no  great  shakes, — 
Pretty  fair — but  let  our  meeting 
Be  a  different  kind  of  greeting. 
Let  these  folks  with  champagne  stuffing 
Not  their  Engines,  do  the  puffing  " 

"Listen!     Where  Atlantic  beats 
Shores  of  snow  and  summer  heats. 
Where  the  Indian  autumn  skies 
Paint  the  woods  with  wampum  dyes, 
I  have  chased  the  flying  sun, 
Seeing  all  he  looked  upon. 
Blessing  all  that  he  has  blest, 
Nursing  in  my  iron  breast 
All  his  vivifying  heat, 
Ah  his  clouds  about  my  crest; 
And  before  my  flying  feet 
Every  shadow  must  retreat  " 

Said  the  Western  Engine.  'Phew'" 
And  a  long,  low  whistle  blew. 
"Come  now,  rea'ly   that's  the  oddest 
Talk  for  one  so  very  modest — 
You  brag  of  your  East!  you  do? 
Why.  I  bring  the  East  to  you! 
All  the  Orient,  all  Cathay, 
Find  through  me  the  shortest  way. 
And  the  sun  you  follow  here 
Rises  in  my  hemisphere. 
Really — if  one  must  be  rude — 
Length,  my  friend,  ain't  longitude." 

Said  the  Union,  "Don't  reflect,  or 

I'll  run  over  some  Director." 
Said  the  Central,  "I'm  Pacific, 
But,  when  riled,  I'm  quite  terrific, 
Yet,  to-day  we  shall  not  quarrel, 
Just,  to  show  these  folks  this  moral, 
iluw  two  Engines — in  their  vision — 
Once  have  met  without  collision. 

That  is  what  the  Engines  said, 
Unreported  and  unread; 
Spoken  lightly  through  the  nose, 
With  a  whistle  at  the  close. 

Monument.  Before  Monument  is  reached  the  side  track  stations  of  Rozel 
and  Lake  are  passed.  At  Rozel,  the  great  Salt  Lake  is  close  to  the  track  on  the 
left,  and  at  Monument,  a  point  of  the  same  name  extends  into  the  lake.  Here 
we  take  our  last  view  of  the  interesting  and  mysterious  sea  which  has  been  our 
almost  constant  companion  since  leaving  Salt  Lake  City.  Before  us  stretches 
a  vast,  unfertile  country,  and  here,  if  anywhere,  can  be  found  that  makeshift  of  the 
easy  going  and  old-fashioned  geography — the  "Great  American  Desert." 

Kelton.  This  little  place  is  situated  on  the  eastern  edge  of  the  desert,  and 
here  the  water-trains  of  the  railroad  company  obtain  their  supply  of  the  aqueous 
flu'd  and  deliver  to  the  stations  to  the  westward  on  this  division.  Looking  to 
the  north  the  traveler  will  see  the  Red  Dome  Mountains,  while  to  the  southeast 
rises  Pilot  Knob,  a  prominent  feature  in  the  landscape.  (Population,  nominal. 
Distance  from  Ogden,  92  miles.     Elevation,  4,225  feet.) 


148  OVER    THE   RANGE 

Towns  in  the  Desert.  From  Kelton  to  Toano  the  road  traverses 
the  northern  edge  of  the  desert,  amidst  a  scene  of  general  desolation.  In  a  general 
way  this  unfertile  region  may  be  described  as  sixty  square  miles  of  alkaline  sands, 
evidently  a  portion  of  the  great  ocean  bed  already  referred  to.  Like  the  arid 
country,  between  Fruita  and  Green  River,  in  Utah,  through  which  we  came,  on 
the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  which  only  needs  irrigation  to  become  fer- 
tile, this  region  is  the  counterpart.  The  stations  on  the  desert  are  of  no  special 
interest,  but  as  a  matter  of  record  may  be  named  as  follows:  Ombcy,  Matlin, 
Terrace,  Bovine,  Lucin,  Tecoma,  Montcllo,  and  Loray.  The  train  has  been 
ascending  the  grade,  and  from  Kelton,  with  an  altitude  of  4,225  feet  to  Toano, 
with  an  altitude  of  5,97c  feet,  we  have  made  a  net  gain  of  1,747  feet.  The  moun- 
tains to  the  south  are  the  Toano  Range,  where  mines  have  been  discovered,  and 
which  gave  a  phenomenal  output  of  ore  some  years  ago,  but  concerning  which, 
since  that  time,  little  has  been  heard.  The  great  peak  almost  directly  south, 
which  has  been  our  landmark  for  the  last  fifty  miles,  is  Pilot  Knob,  rising  to  a 
height  of  twenty-five  hundred  feet  directly  from  the  plains.  This  Knob  was  the 
beacon  of  the  early  emigrant  by  which  he  steered  his  ship  of  the  desert,  knowing 
that  near  it  lay  Humboldt  Wells,  where  plenty  of  water  and  grass  could  be  obtained 
for  his  almost  famished  stock. 

ToailO.  A  little  station  marking  the  western  verge  of  the  desert,  and  the 
first  stop  after  crossing  the  line  from  Utah  into  Nevada.  (Population,  nominal. 
Distance  from  Ogden,  183  miles.     Elevation,  5,970  feet.) 

From  Toano  the  ascent  of  Cedar  Pass  is  begun. 
For  ten  miles  the  grade  is  upward,  though  not  re- 
markably steep,  the  road  rising  216  feet.  The 
Cedar  Pass  Range  is  comparatively  low  and  extends 
from  north  to  south,  the  south  fork  of  the  Hum- 
boldt River  flows  through  these  hills.  The  Ruby 
Valley  lies  to  the  cast,  and  is  sixty  miles  long  by 
ten  wide.  The  valley  is  occupied  by  farmers  and 
is  very  fertile.  There  are  a  number  of  small 
lakes  in  the  valley,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  Ruby  and  Franklin. 

Moores.  This  station  occupies  the  summit  of  Cedar  Pass.  Snow  sheds 
and  fences,  which  can  be  seen  here  and  for  some  distance  beyond,  testify  to  the  fact 
that  the  elevation  is  such  as  to  cause  protection  against  the  danger  of  snow  block- 
ades. (Population,  small.  Distance  from  Ogden,  210  miles.  Elevation,  6,165 
feet.) 

Wells.  The  grade  has  been  a  descending  one  since  we  left  Moores  and 
the  descent  will  be  continued  for  nearly  three  hundred  miles.  The  railroad  com- 
pany has  adopted  the  monosyllabic  title  of  Wells  for  this  station,  but  for  nearly 
half  a  century  this  place  has  borne  the  popular  title  of  "Humboldt  Wells."  Here 
the  railroad  repair  shop  and  roundhouse  are  located,  and  the  town  consists  of  these 
and  many  other  buildings,  including  good  hotels.  The  trade  of  the  Clover  Valley, 
and  the  business  of  the  mines  at  Cherry  Creek,  and  Salmon  River,  together  with 
extensive  cattle  raising  on  the  nearby  ranges,  center  at  Wells  making  it  one  of  the 
important  towns  of  Eastern  Nevada.  In  this  vicinity,  the  emigrants  in  the  old  days 
of  overland  travel  to  California  were  wont  to  make  their  camp  and  recuperate  their 
stock  after  the  trying  ordeal  of  the  desert.  The  wells  from  which  the  place  takes 
its  name  are  very  curious,  consisting  of  circular  openings  in  the  ground  varying 
in  size,  being  from  four  to  eight  feet  in  diameter,  and  filled  to  the  brink  with  water. 


CEDAR    PASS. 

The  Divide  between  the 
Desert  and  Hum- 
boldt Valley. 

Highest  Elevation, 
6,186  feet. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  1 49 

No  bubbles  arise  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  which  trickles  off  through  the  grass 
and  sinks  into  the  porous  soil.  It  is  said  that  the  wells  have  been  frequently  sounded 
and  no  bottom  found.  The  water  is  somewhat  brackish.  There  are  aboul  twenty 
of  these  pools  in  the  little  valley,  and  their  life-giving  influence  can  be  seen 
in  the  abundant  growth  of  grass.  Because  of  these  pe<  uliar  pools  Wells  is  a  station 
of  considerable  interest  to  the  tourist.  (Population,  500.  Distance  from  Ogden, 
219  miles.     Elevation,  5,631  feet.) 

Valley  of  the  Humboldt.  After  the  journey  across  the  desert,  the 
Valley  of  the  Humboldt  presents  a  most  delightful  appearance  to  the  eyes  of  the 
traveler,  who  is  considerably  wearied  by  the  constant  view  of  sand  and  sagebrush. 
The  valley  is  eighty  miles  in  length  and  ten  in  breadth  and  is  occupied  by  agricul- 
turists and  stock  raisers.  The  river  which  makes  this  section  of  the  country  fertile 
rises  thirty  miles  northwest  of  Wells,  and,  flowing  southwest  nearly  three  hundred 
miles,  empties  into  Humboldt  Lake,  which  has  no  outlet.  The  railroad  follows  the 
river  closely  for  two  hundred  and  seventy  miles  and  leaves  it  at  Brown's  Station, 
where  one  has  a  fine  view  of  the  lake.  The  railroad  follows  for  the  greater  part 
of  the  way  the  north  side  of  the  river,  while  the  old  emigrant  trail,  parts  of  which 
can  yet  be  seen,  pursues  its  course  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream. 

Tulasco,  Bishops,  Deeth,  Halleck,  Peko,  Osino,  are  all  small  side  track  sta- 
tions, useful  to  the  residents  of  the  valley  and  to  the  railroad,  but  of  no  especial 
interest  to  the  tourist.  After  passing  Peko,  the  railroad  crosses  the  north  fork  of 
the  Humboldt  River  and  at  Osino  a  canon  of  the  same  name  is  entered,  and  we 
leave  behind  us  the  pleasant  valley  of  the  Humboldt. 

Elko.  This  is  one  of  the  largest  towns  on  the  line  since  leaving  Ogden. 
It  is  the  county-seat  of  Elko  Count}'  and  is  well  supplied  with  churches,  schools, 
business  blocks,  and  comfortable  residences.  It  is  also  the  seat  of  the  state  uni- 
versity. Elko  is  an  important  shipping  point  for  stock  and  for  the  output  of  the 
Eureka,  Tuscararo  White  Pine,  and  Cape  mines,  all  being  within  a  radius  of  from 
twenty-five  to  one  hundred  miles.  Beyond  Elko  some  ten  miles  the  South  Fork  of 
the  Humboldt  joins  the  river  on  the  south,  watering  along  its  course  an  excellent 
grazing  country.  (Population,  1,000.  Distance  from  Ogden,  275  miles.  Eleva- 
tion, 5,066  feet.) 

Carlill.  Between  Elko  and  Carlin  is  the  small  station  of  Moleen.  Some 
hay  meadows  intervene  and  the  road  passes  through  Five  Mile  Canon,  when'  the 
tourist  will  behold  some  rugged  scenery.  Carlin  is  the  divisional  terminus  of  the 
railroad,  and  here  engines  and  crews  are  changed.  Gold  and  silver  mines  within  a 
radius  of  twenty  miles  are  tributary  to  the  town.  (Population,  200.  1  >istan<  e  from 
Ogden,  299  miles.     Elevation,  4,905  feet.) 

Twelve  Mile  Canon.  The  road  pene- 
trates the  range  of  mountains  (which  trends  from 
north  to  south)  by  way  of  this  canon.  The  walls 
rise  on  either  side  in  rugged  grandeur  attaining  in 
places  a  height  of  a  thousand  feet,  from  the  pecu- 
liar stratification  of  the  rocks  resembling  that  of 
the  famous  ro<  k  walls  of  the  1  ludsoii,  this  canon  has 
been  called  the  Palisades  of  the  Humboldt.  Red 
("lit!  is  a  striking  promontory  in  the  midst  of  the 
canon,  stained  with  rubescent  colors  and  rising 
above  the  track  for  more  than  five  hundred  feet. 

Palisade.      This  little  town  nestles    in    the    heart    of    Twelve    Mile  Canon, 


The  Palisades  of 
the  Humboldt. 

Height  of  Walls, 
1,000  feet. 

Objects  of  Interest, 

Red  Cliff  and  Devil's 

Peak. 


150  OVER    THE  RANGE 

and  is  the  junction  point  of  the  Eureka  and  Palisade  Railroad  with  the  Southern 
Pacific.  The  former  road  is  a  narrow  gauge  and  was  built  mainly  to  convey  ore  and 
bullion  to  the  great  trunk  line.  Eureka,  its  terminus,  is  a  mining  town  of  about 
six  thousand  population,  engaged  principally  in  mining.  Here  are  stamp  mills 
and  smelters  handling  fifty  tons  of  ore  daily.  Palisade  is  the  site  of  the  machine 
shops  of  the  Eureka  and  Palisade  Railroad  and  is  the  shipping  point  for  the  agricul- 
tural regions  of  Pine  and  Diamond  Valleys,  and  for  the  silver  and  lead  ores  from 
Eureka  en  route  to  the  smelters  at  Salt  Lake.  Beyond  Palisade  Station  is  Devil's 
Peak,  an  isolated  projection  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  rising  from  the  water  to 
the  height  of  three  hundred  feet.  (Population,  200.  Distance  from  Ogden,  308 
miles.     Elevation,  4,843  feet.) 

ClUTO.  A  small  station  which  stands  at  the  lower  entrance  of  Twelve  Mile 
Canon,  and  is  worthy  of  mention  for  this  fact. 

Gravelly  Ford.  This  place  is  entitled  to  mention  because  of  its  his- 
toric interest.  It  was  here  that  the  old  California  trail  crossed  the  river.  The 
"Ford"  was  often  the  scene  of  Indian  raids,  and  the  hardy  pioneers  and  the  abo- 
rigines more  than  once  tried  conclusions  here,  and  the  blood  of  both  the  white  and 
the  red  man  often  stained  the  flow  of  the  Humboldt. 

Beowawe.  At  this  point  the  Humboldt  forces  its  way  through  the  Red 
Range  of  Mountains  forming  a  natural  "gate,"  which  is  the  significance  of  the 
name  Beowawe  in  the  Indian  tongue.  Beyond  the  station  the  road  passes  through 
bottom  lands  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  shrubbery,  the  willow  predominating. 
To  the  south  eight  or  ten  miles  lies  Hot  Springs  Valley,  taking  its  title  from  the 
hot  springs  which  are  found  there  in  great  number.  These  springs  are  inter- 
mittent in  their  flow,  resembling  in  this  characteristic,  though  in  a  lesser  degree, 
the  geysers  of  the  Yellowstone.  Beowawe  is  a  station  of  no  very  great  commer- 
cial importance,  but  possesses  interest  because  of  the  peculiar  features  of  the  sur- 
rounding counlry.     (Distance  from  Ogden,  326  miles.      Elevation,  4,697  feet.) 

The  Valley  Reg'ion.  To  the  north  and  south  of  the  Humboldt  and 
nearly  opposite  Argenta,  are  several  valleys;  among  the  most  important  is  Paradise 
Valley — to  the  north — sixty  miles  long  by  ten  miles  wide,  and  settled  by  prosperous 
ranchmen.  Eden  Valley,  also  to  the  north,  is  twenty  miles  long  by  five  miles 
broad,  and  thickly  settled.  Reese  River  Valley  is  to  the  south,  of  variable  width, 
not  wider  than  ten  miles,  and  about  seventy-live  miles  in  length.  The  Reese 
River  possesses  the  peculiarity  of  sinking  into  the  sand  before  it  reaches  the  Hum- 
boldt, and  only  in  limes  of  great  abundance  of  water  dors  it  flow  beyond  the  point 
of  its  subsidence. 

Battle  Mountain.  Important  as  a  shipping  station  for  the  mining 
regions  in  the  hills  to  the  north  and  south;  also  the  junction  of  the  Nevada  Central 
Railroad  with  the  Southern  Pacific.  This  is  a  narrow  gauge,  and  its  southern 
terminus  is  Austin,  ninety-three  miles  distant  from  Battle  Mountain,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  two  thousand.  The  Nevada  Central  penetrates  the  rich  mining  districts 
of  Galena,  Pittsburg,  Copper  Canon,  and  many  others,  all  contributing  to  its  pros- 
perity. Battle  Mountain  takes  its  name  from  the  range  of  mountains  to  the 
north  of  the  Humboldt,  between  the  Reese  River  and  Owyhee  ranges.  (Population, 
600.     Distance  from  Ogden,  359  miles.     Elevation,  4, 513  feet.) 

GrOlconda  .  Golconda  has  hot  springs  which  in  any  Eastern  State  would 
attract  invalids  and  pleasure -seekers  by  the  thousands.  The  benefits  derived  from 
the  use  of  these  waters  has  been  proven,  by  many  patients  afflicted  with  rheumatism, 
nervousness  and  other  diseases.     Fine  hotel  is  connected  with  the  baths.     Immense 


152  OVER    THE   RANGE 

deposits  of  copper  ore  lie  nearby  and  extensive  furnaces  have  been  built  for  their 
reduction.  Fine  ranches  on  the  river  and  cattle  and  sheep  ranges  in  the  hills  add 
to  the  importance  of  the  town.  (Population,  200.  Distance  from  Ogden,  402 
miles.     Elevation,  4,391  feet.) 

WinneniUCCa.  The  town  derives  its  name  from  a  noted  Indian  Chief  who 
made  his  home  in  this  region.  Winnemucca  is  the  county-seat  of  Humboldt  County 
and  supports  two  daily  newspapers,  hne  schools,  churches,  lodges,  and  many  stores, 
shops,  etc.  Its  trade  reaches  far  into  Oregon  and  covers  stock-raising,  mining,  and 
kindred  industries.  The  old  town  is  in  the  lowland  fronting  the  station,  and  is 
hidden  from  sight  until  you  approach  the  bank  and  look  over.  (Population,  2,000, 
Distance  from  Ogden,  410  miles.     Elevation,  4,330  feet.) 

Tlie  Nevada  Desert.  We  have  now  fairly  entered  upon  the  Nevada 
Desert,  which  we  shall  travel  over  to  the  westward  until  Wadsworth  is  reached,  a 
distance  of  135  miles.  This  stretch  of  country  is  the  most  desolate  and  the  most 
uninteresting  of  any  of  the  deserts  crossed  on  the  transcontinental  journey.  It 
is  characterized  by  an  almost  total  absence  of  vegetation  of  any  kind,  and  by  a 
remarkable  distribution  of  scoria,  the  remains  of  extinct  volcanic  action.  These 
deposits  of  black  lava  are  scattered  over  a  grayish  expanse  of  sand,  and  are  of  a 
general  cubical  form,  varying  in  size  from  that  of  a  pea  to  that  of  a  good-sized 
house.  The  railway  stations  between  Winnemucca  and  Humboldt  are  Benin,  Rose 
Creek,  Lima,  Cosgrave,  Mill  City,  and  Imlay. 

As  the  train  stops  at  Humboldt,  the  passengers 
are  surprised  to  see  a  beautiful  little  park  filled  with 
thrifty  trees  and  carpeted  with  luxuriant  green- 
sward. This  oasis  in  the  desert  is  the  result  of 
irrigation,  and  the  fountain  of  cold,  clear  water  that 
throws  its  rainbow-tinted  spray  into  the  air,  tells  the 
story  as  to  how  this  magical  transformation  has  been 
brought  about.  The  charm  of  contrast  is  complete, 
and  taking  all  things  into  consideration,  I  know  of 
no  place  to  be  met  with  on  the  trip  across  the 
continent  that  the  tourist  will  regard  with  more 
pleasure  than  the  unexpected  vision  of  this  emerald 
of  the  desert.  Star  Peak,  the  highest  mountain  in  the  Humboldt  Range,  crowned 
with  perpetual  snow,  can  be  seen  only  seven  miles  distant  to  the  northeast,  and 
it  is  a  pleasure  to  learn  that  the  desert  gives  way  to  the  Lanson  Meadows  five  miles 
to  the  northwest,  from  which  large  crops  of  hay  are  cut. 

Rye  Patch.  A  small  station,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that 
wild  rye  grows  here  in  great  quantities.  There  is  in  operation  here  a  ten-stamp 
mill  which  is  supplied  with  ore  from  the  Eldorado  and  Rye  Patch  mining  districts 
lying  to  the  east  within  a  radius  of  fifteen  miles.  (Population,  nominal.  Distance 
from  Ogden,  470  miles.     Elevation,  4,258  feet.) 

Oreana.  A  small  station  of  no  especial  interest.  A  smelter  is  located 
here,  and  the  widened  expanse  of  the  river  at  this  point  is  owing  to  the  fact  that 
a  dam  has  been  thrown  across  it  to  secure  water  power.  The  railroad  crosses  the 
Humboldt  five  miles  west  of  Oreana.  (Population,  nominal.  Distance  from 
Ogden,  480  miles.     Elevation,  4,159  feet.) 

Lovelocks.  This  town  has  a  brilliant  outlook.  Its  alfalfa  fields,  its  sheep 
and  cattle  market,  the  dozen  mining  districts  tributary  to  it,  insure  the  future  of 
this  valley  town.      There   are  many  highly  cultivated  farms  and  gardens  in   the 


HUMBOLDT. 

An  Oasis  in  the  Desert. 

The  Effect  of  Irriga= 
tion. 

Distance  from  Ogden, 
459  miles. 

Elevation,  4,237  feet. 


The  Lake  Region. 

Facts  Concerning 

Interesting  Bodies  of 

Water. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  153 

vicinity.       (Population,  900.      Distance    from    Ogden,   493    miles.       Elevati  n 

3,980  feet.") 

Browns.     At  Browns  station   the  tourist    has  a   good    view  of  Humboidt 

Lake,  as  the  road  approaches  it  closely.  The  town  itself  is  of  minor  importance 
(Population,  nominal.  Distance  from  Ogden,  508  miles.  Elevation,  3,933  feet.) 
3Iirajfe.  Side  track  station,  deriving  its  name  from  the  phenomenon 
peculiar  to  the  desert,  which  has  allured  many  an  early  emigrant  to  destruction 
through  its  deceptive  influences.  The  green  trees,  the  lake  of  bright  water  in 
which  can  be  seen  the  reflection  of  surrounding  objects,  which  the  mirage  presents 
to  view,  are  only  optical  illusions,  and  those  who  left  the  beaten  track  to  seek  the 
refreshment  apparently  at  hand  frequently  paid  the  penalty  of  their  rashness  with 
their  lives.  (Population,  nominal.  Distance  from  Ogden,  520  miles.  Elevation, 
4,247  feet.) 

A  glance  at  the  map  of  Nevada  will  reveal  the 
fact  that  we  have  now  reached  what  may  very 
appropriately  be  called  the  lake  region.  These 
lakes  have  not  the  clear,  sweet  water  which  one 
generally  associates  with  the  term;  but  on  the  con- 
trary are  brackish,  and  hold  great  quantities  of 
alkali  and  chloride  of  sodium  in  solution.  The 
most  important  of  these  lakes  are: 
Humboldt  Lake.  This  sheet  of  water  takes  its  name  from  the  river 
which  flows  into,  or  rather  through,  it;  the  fact  being  that  the  waters  of  the  river 
are  collected  in  this  basin,  and  are  then  conducted  further  west  into  Carson  Sink — 
or  Lake.  All  the  drainage  carried  in  the  channel  of  the  Humboldt  River,  in  its 
course  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  is  concentrated  here;  the  surplus,  as  has 
been  said,  passing  south  into  Carson  Lake,  which  has  no  outlet.  Humboldt  Lake  is 
thirty-five  miles  long  by  ten  miles  wide. 

Carson  Lake.  This  lake,  which  receives  the  waters  of  the  Humboldt 
River,  through  Carson  Sink,  is  due  south  from  Humboldt  Lake,  and  has  no  outiet. 
The  map  shows  two  distinct  bodies  of  water,  namely:  Carson  Sink  and  Carson 
Lake;  but  during  the  prevalence  of  rain  both  are  united,  and  cover  a  large  extent 
of  country.     Carson  Lake  proper  is  twenty  miles  long  by  ten  wide. 

Mud  Lalve  is  situated  north  of  Granite  Point,  some  fifty  miles.  The 
famous  "Black  Rock"  stands  at  the  head  of  Mud  Lake.  This  promontory  is 
eighteen  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  a  strong  feature  in  the  landscape.  The  name 
of  this  lake  is  especially  descriptive  of  its  peculiar  characteristics,  especially  during 
the  summer  when  the  water  is  low  and  muddy.  It  has  no  outlet,  and  at  its  season 
of  greatest  enlargement  is  fifty  miles  long  by  twenty  broad. 

WinuemUCCa  Lake  is  of  small  extent,  being  about  fifteen  miles  long  by 
ten  wide;  it  has  connection  with  Pyramid  Lake,  which  lies  a  short  distance  to  the 
eastward. 

Pyramid  Lake  is  made  the  receptacle  of  the  waters  of  the  Truckee  River, 
the  outlet  of  Lake  Tahoe,  and  is  about  twice  the  size  of  Winnemucca  Lake,  being 
thirty  miles  long  by  twenty  broad. 

AValker's  Lake  has  no  outlet.  It  is  fifty  miles  long  by  twenty  wide,  and 
lies  about  a  hundred  miles  to  the  south  of  Mirage. 

Hot  Springs.  A  small  station,  taking  its  name  from  the  springs  which, 
send  up  the  steam  from  their  heated  waters  on  the  right  of  the  track.  (Population, 
nominal.     Distance  from  Ogden,  535  miles.      Elevation,  4,074  feet.) 


'54  OVER   THE  RANGE 

Desert.  This  is  the  last  station  in  the  Nevada  Desert,  marking  its  western 
boundary.  From  here  the  grade  is  an  ascending  one,  and  when  Wadsworth  is 
reached,  nine  miles  beyond,  the  desert  will  have  been  left  entirely.  (Population, 
small.     Distance  from  Ogden,  546  miles.     Elevation,  4,020  feet.) 

Wadsworth.  The  tourist  finds  a  pleasant  greeting  at  Wadsworth,  for  on 
arriving  at  the  station  he  sees  a  beautiful  little  park,  neatly  inclosed  and  orna- 
mented with  a  carefully  Lept  lawn  and  handsome  shade  trees.  The  park  is  not  so 
extensive  as  that  at  Humboldt,  but  is  none  the  less  a  delight  after  the  long  journey 
across  the  desert.  The  town  is  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Truckee  River, 
and  is  prosperous  and  well  built.  Here  are  located  the  railroad  shops  for  this 
division  of  the  railroad,  and  considerable  freight  business  is  transacted  with  the 
mining  camps  situated  to  the  south.  The  Truckee  River  has  its  source  in  lakes 
Tahoe  and  Donner,  and  is  a  pure  and  sparkling  stream.  Six  miles  sovith  are  the 
Pine  Grove  Copper  Mines,  while  ten  miles  south  are  the  Desert  Gold  Mines,  tribu- 
tary to  Wadsworth.  (Population,  1,500.  Distance  from  Ogden,  555  miles.  Eleva- 
tion, 4,085  feet.) 

In  addition  to  being  the  county-scat  of  Washoe 
County,  Reno  is  a  thriving  business  center.  It 
possesses  all  the  modern  improvements,  including 
electric  lights.  Its  business  blocks  are  well  built 
and  its  public  buildings  creditable  to  the  city.  The 
State  University  is  located  here  and  the  handsome 
buildings  attract  the  attention  of  travelers.  The 
town  was  named  after  General  Reno,  who  lost  his 
life  in  the  battle  of  South  Mountain.  This  is  the 
junctional  point  for  the  Nevada,  California  &  Oregon 
Railroad,  a  narrow  gauge,  leading  northward  into 
Lassen  Countv,  with  a  branch  line  into  Plumas  Count}'.  Here,  also,  the  tourist 
can  take  the  Virginia  &  Truckee  Railroad  for  Carson  City,  Virginia  City,  and  points 
to  the  north  and  south.  Condensing  the  statement  of  connections,  they  are  as 
follows:  Virginia  &  Truckee  Railroad  for  Carson,  Virginia,  and  Mound  House,  con- 
necting there  with  Carson  &  Colorado  Railroad  for  Hawthorne,  Belleville,  Candc- 
laria,  and  Keeler;  Nevada,  California  &  Oregon  Railroad  for  points  north.  Stages 
can  also  be  taken  to  Eagle ville,  Vlturas,  Cedarville,  and  Lake  View  or  Davis  Creek. 
Reno  possesses  a  lively  interest  to  the  traveler,  as  it  is  the  junction  point  to  the 
world -famed  Comstock  Mines. 

Car.SOll  City  is  the  State  capital.  It  is  a  beautiful  little  city  of  about  2,500 
people,  lying  in  Eagle  Valley  on  Carson  River.  Stages  run  from  here  to  Lake 
Tahoe  and  other  summer  resorts  in  the  mountains.  The  public  buildings  of  Carson 
are  creditable  to  the  State.  The  United  States  branch  mint  is  located  here;  the 
capital  is  in  the  center  of  a  plaza,  surrounded  by  an  iron  fence.  There  are  good 
hotels,  churches,  schools,  and  daily  newspapers.  It  is  the  oldest  town  in  the  State, 
is  tastefully  adorned  with  shade  trees,  and  has  an  abundance  of  good  water.  It  is 
the  center  of  a  large  trade  for  all  parts  of  southwestern  Nevada  and  Mono  and  Inyo 
counties  of  California. 

Virginia  City.  This  famous  place  is  on  the  slope  of  Mt.  Davidson  at  an 
elevation  of  6,200  feet,  built  along  the  side  of  the  mountain.  It  has  one  main  street 
with  many  steep  cross-streets.  In  its  earlier  days  it  was  a  vortex  of  immense  activity 
and  its  mines  under  the  city  were  treasure  houses  of  wealth  almost  beyond  reckon- 
ing.    The  Consolidated  Virginia  and  California  mines  cleared  each  about  $1,080,- 


RENO. 

Junctional  Point. 

Distance  from  Ogden, 
589  miles. 

Population,  4,500. 

Altitude,  4,497  feet. 


TO    THE  COLD  EX   GATE.  1 55 

000  monthly  for  many  months.  The  ( >phir  also  paid  fabulous  dividends  (or  years. 
Tin-  produi  ts  of  these  mines  at  one  time  excited  the  world.  The  city  has  dei  lined 
in  population,  but  the  mines  are  still  yielding  ore,  and  with  modern  machinery  will 
have  many  years  of  activity. 

Climbing-  the  Sierra   Nevada   Range.    After  leaving   Reno  the 

grades  grow  steeper,  and  the  traveler  prepares  himself  for  the  grand  and  striking 
scenery  which  he  will  have  the  pleasure  of  beholding  until  the  passage  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  Mountains  has  been  made.  For  fifty  miles  the  ascent  continues  until 
Summit  Station  is  reached,  the  highest  point  attained  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Rail- 
road on  its  transcontinental  line  from  Ogden  to  San  Francisco.  From  Reno  the 
road  follows  up  the  course  of  the  Truckee  River,  and  soon  enters  Truckee  Canon. 
The  course  of  the  river  is  tortuous  and  the  road  quickly  changes  sides,  giving 
varied  and  interesting  views  of  towering  rocks,  foaming  waters,  and  pine-clad 
mountains.     In  quick  succession  the  following  small  stations  arc  passed: 

Verdi,  Floriston,  Boca.  The  country  between  Verdi  and  Truckee  seems  pretty 
well  given  up  to  the  production  of  lumber,  great  quantities  of  ties,  logs,  and  boards 
being  piled  beside  the  track.  The  river  is  used  as  a  facile  means  of  transporting 
these  products  of  the  forest.     Ice  store  houses  and  paper  pulp  mills  also  abound  here. 

Truckee  stands  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  and 
the  first  station  we  reach  after  crossing  the  line  between  Nevada  and  California. 
The  town  is  well  built  and  extends  mainly  along  the  north  bank  of  the  Truckee 
River.  Lumber  is  the  leading  industry,  and  where  the  town  now  stands,  once  stood 
a  dense  forest.  It  is  estimated  that  the  Truckee  Basin  will  supply  at  least  4,000,- 
000,000  feet  of  lumber,  or  enough  to  keep  the  sawmills  going  at  their  present  rate 
for  a  hundred  years.  The  roundhouse  for  this  division  of  the  railroad  is  located 
here.  Truckee  is  the  shipping-point  for  Donner  Lake  and  the  towns  of  the  Sierra 
Valley.  Stages  can  be  taken  for  Lake  Tahoe  (fourteen  miles),  Donner  Lake 
(two  miles),  and  Webber  Lake;  also  for  Sierraviilc,  Sierra  City,  and  Plumas,  Eureka 
Mine.  (Population,  1,500.  Distance  from  Ogden,  624  miles.  Elevation,  s,.Siq 
feet.) 

Lake  TallOC  "There  is  a  grandeur  and  enchantment  at  all  times  in  the 
scenery  which  environs  the  lakes  of  this  region  and  never-ending  means  of  pleasure 
and  exhilaration  on  their  waters;  and  the  panorama  of  mountain  and  valley,  meadow- 
land  and  woodland,  sunshine  and  cloud,  as  viewed  from  Tahoe  City  is  spacious, 
inspiriting  and  impressive.  This  view  is  an  unspeakably  line  one;  within  the  mag- 
nificent frame  of  the  Tahoe  range  is  Lake  Tahoe,  sometimes  tranquil,  sometimes 
turbulent,  but  always  lovely.  The  summer  sunsets  on  Lake  Tahoe  are  remarkable 
for  their  great  beauty  and  wealth  of  coloring  and  are  grander  than  those  mirrored 
on  Lakes  Como  and  Maggiore.  No  painter  would  ever  dare  to  put  upon  canvas 
the  variegated  colors  of  Tahoe's  waters  in  a  summer  sunset.  It  would  appear 
such  an  exaggeration  that  he  would  lose  caste  among  those  who  demand  that  tin 
artist's  pencil  shall  be  true  to  nature.  None  but  those  who  have  witnessed  the 
scene  would  be  persuaded  of  its  reality.  Such  beauty  could  not  be  were  it 
not  for  the  highly  reflective  qualities  of  the  pure  translucent  waters  which  serve- 
as  a  polished  mirror  of  French  plate-glass."  Such  is  the  glowing  language  of  a 
much  traveled  author,  whose  words,  though  eloquent,  fail  of  depicting  the  entranc- 
ing loveliness  of  the  scenes  which  one  can  here  behold.  Hut  it  is  no  refle<  tion  upon 
the  descriptive  powers  of  any  writer  to  say  that  he  has  fallen  short  of  the  reality. 
Surely  if  these  scenes  are  beyond  the  powers  of  the  artist,  no  discredit  can  follow- 
when  the  writer's  pen  fails  to  attain  to  the  full  measure  of  their  grandeur  and  beauty. 


^ 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


Lake  Tahoe,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  moun 
Jain  lakes  in  the  world,  lies  in  the  heart  of  the 
Sierras,  6,280  feet  above  the  sea,  while  mountain 
peaks  surround  it,  rising  to  an  additional  height  of 
from  two  to  four  thousand  feet.  It  is  23  miles  in 
length,  13  miles  in  breadth,  and  from  100  to  i,8oo 
feet  in  depth.  Its  waters  are  famous  the  world  over 
for  their  crystal  purity,  and  their  transparency  is  so 
absolute  that  the  fish,  which  abound  in  great 
numbers,  can  be  seen  distinctly  as  they  swim 
beneath  you,  at  a  distance  of  eighty  feet.  On  its 
lovely  shores  are  situated  some  of  the  most  delight- 
ful summer  resorts.  The  mid-summer  air  is  cool 
and  invigorating,  the  hunting  and  fishing  excellent, 
and  the  landscape  picturesque  and  a  never-ending  delight  to  the  eye.  It  is  reached 
from  Truckee  by  the  Lake  Tahoe  Railway  or  by  stage.  The  ride  by  stage  from 
Truckee  to  the  lake,  is  a  most  charming  experience,  and  is  thus  described  by  Mr. 
N.  II.  Chittenden,  a  traveler  of  some  distinction:  "It  was  a  glorious  morning 
bright  and  cool,  a  rain  having  fallen  the  previous  evening,  tempering  the  dry  moun- 
tain air  fragrant  with  the  sweet  odor  of  the  pines,  to  a  delicious,  exhilarating  fresh 


LAKE  TAHOE. 

The  "Gem  of  the 
Mountains." 

Distance  from  Truckee, 
15  miles. 

Length  of  Lake, 
23  miles. 

Breadth  of  Lake, 
13  miles. 

Depth,  1,800  feet. 


LAKE  TAHOE. 


ness,  and  also  effectually  laying  the  dust.  It  is  a  magnificent  drive,  following  uo 
the  dashing  Truckee,  a  fitting  outlet  for  the  world's  crowning  gem  of  mountain 
lakes.  From  thirty  to  fifty  feet  in  width,  clear  as  crystal,  pure  and  cold,  it  courses 
swiftly  down  the  mountains,  frequently  a  foaming  rapid,  but  interrupted  in  its 
headlong  descent  by  several  dams.  The  valley  is  from  three-quarters  to  a  mile 
across,  the  mountains  generally  not  precipitous  or  very  high,  though  presenting 


/()    THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


»57 


several  bold,  towering  granite  cliffs  and  peaks  from  five  hundred  to  one  thousand 
and  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  river.  The  most  prominent  of  these,  from  their 
resemblance  to  the  human  face,  are  known  as  the  'Old  Woman'  and  'Old  Man' 
of  the  mountains,  and  the  '  Duke  of  Wellington.'  Thick  forests  of  red,  yellow,  and 
sugar  pine,  fir,  and  cedar,  extend  the  whole  way,  except  where  cleared  by  the 
lumbermen.  The  great  saw-mill  companies  arc  annually  cutting  millions  of  feet 
of  the  choicest  trees,  having  already  advanced  about  eight  miles  up  the  river  and 
back  three  or  four  miles  therefrom.  The  lumber  flumes  extend  from  the  great 
mills  at  Truckec  to  the  farthest  camps,  and  the  sides  of  the  mountains  are  grooved 
with  log  chutes.     Down  the  former  are  run  vast  quantities  of  wood  and  timber, 


JONNER   LAK 


while  down  the  latter  immense  logs  are  shot,  with  the  velocity  of  thunder- 
bolts, into  the  river.  At  the  Eight-Mile  Crossing,  a  five-foot  monster  plunged 
in  as  we  passed,  striking  a  forerunner  fairly  endwise,  with  terrific  force,  and 
the  noise  of  distant  thunder.  Horse  railways  and  long  ox  teams  are  also  empl  iyed 
in  hauling  out  the  logs  from  over  the  summit  of  the  mountains." 

The  tour  of  the  lake  is  made  by  an  excursion  steamer  which  is  taken  at  Tahoe 
City.  The  surroundings  of  the  lakes  are  picturesque  in  the  extreme.  Beginning 
at  the  right,  the  coronet  of  mountains,  which  surrounds  the  lake,  may  be  named  as 
follows:  the  Rubicon  Peaks,  9,287  feet  above  the  sea;  Mount  Tallac,  0.715  feel 
in  height;  Mount  Ralston,  9,140  feet;  Pyramid  Peak,  10,052  feet;  Job's  Peak, 
10,637  feet!  Geneva  Peak,  9,135,  and  the  summits  of  the  Tahoe  Range.  Down  the 
steep,  forest-covered  sides  of  these  mountains  swiftly  descend  numerous  beautiful 
streams,  Ward's  Creek,  Blackwood's,  McKinney's,  Phipp's,  Meek's  Bay,  Lonely 
Gulch,  Cascade  Falls,  Cascade  Lake,  Taylor,  Little  Truckee  River,  Big  Truckec 
River,  Jim  Small's  Creek,  Sevory  Cove  Creek,  Glenbrook,  Secret  Harbor,  Big, 
Griffin's,  Cornelian  Bay,  and  Gordon's  Creek  being  the  most  important. 


158  OVER    THE   RAXGE 

The  shores  of  Lake  Tahoe  are  indented  with  beautiful  bays,  Crystal,  Corne- 
lian, Mceks,  and  Emerald,  the  latter  being  the  largest  and  most  frequented.  It  is 
about  eighteen  miles  from  Tahoe  City,  three  miles  long,  and  about  half  a  mile  in 
width.  Ben  Holladay  built  a  summer  residence  here,  which  his  family  occupied 
until  it  wTas  burned  in  1879. 

Captain  Dick,  an  eccentric  old  English  sailor,  chose  this  wild  mountain  retreat 
for  his  home,  built  a  cabin,  and  chiseled  out  a  tomb  in  the  solid  rock,  on  the  lonely 
rock-bound  island  near  the  entrance.  Falling  overboard,  while  intoxicated,  Lake 
Tahoe,  which  it  is  said,  never  gives  up  its  dead,  became  his  last  resting-place,  in- 
stead of  the  grave  he  had  prepared. 

The  shores  of  the  lake  are  dotted  with  summer  residences  and  pleasure  resort 
villages.  Among  the  latter  may  be  mentioned  Tahoe  City,  Glenbrook,  Tallac, 
Rowlands,  and  McKinneys.  Glenbrook  is  a  very  pretty  village  and  is  the  business 
centre  for  Lake  Tahoe.  The  thousand  and  one  attractions  of  this  lovely  lake  can 
obtain  but  little  justice  in  so  brief  a  description  as  can  be  given  here;  indeed,  the 
most  elaborate  description  would  fall  far  short  of  the  reality,  and  only  he  who  has  had 
the  extreme  good  fortune  to  visit  the  spot  can  form  an  adequate  idea  of  its  charms. 

Donner  Lake.  Made  memorable  by  the 
terrible  fate  of  the  Donner  party,  thirty-four  of 
whom  died  of  starvation  on  its  shores  in  the  year 
1846,  and  taking  its  name  from  the  leader  of  this 
unfortunate  company,  Donner  Lake  commands 
especial  attention  for  its  historical  associations.  Its 
beauty  gives  it  a,  leading  position  among  the  Lkes 
of  the  Sierras  and  has  been  made  familiar  through 
the  well-known  paintings  by  Bierstadt.  Onlv  three 
miles  from  Truckee,  it  is  easy  of  access.  It  is 
about  three  miles  long,  one  and  a  half  miles 
wide,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep.  Its 
shores  are  gravelly  and  the  lake  is  surrounded  by  great  forests  of  pine,  fir,  and 
tamarack. 

"Webber  Lake,  a  perfect  gem,  lies  in  the  Sierra  Xevadas,  about  twenty- 
six  miles  from  Truckee,  at  an  altitude  of  6,925  feet  above  the  sea  level.  It  is  cir- 
cular  in  shape;  its  waters  crystal  white,  and  with  a  depth  of  eighty-four  feet.  It 
is  considered  one  of  the  finest  fishing  grounds  in  California,  the  trout  being  large 
and  numerous,  gamey,  and  delicious.  About  three-quarters  of  a  mile  away  from 
the  lake  are  the  falls,  having  a  descent  of  105  feet. 

Independence  Lake,  sixteen  miles  from  Truckee,  and  ten  miles  from 
Webber,  is  another  one  of  those  beautiful  gems.  It  is  two  and  one-half  miles  long 
and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide.     Its  waters  are  alive  with  trc  ut. 

Climbing  the  Sierra  Nevada  Range.    The  ascent  of  the  Sierras 

begins  at  Truckee.  In  order  to  protect  travelers  from  delay  in  inclement  weather, 
the  railroad  company  have  constructed  an  almost  uninterrupted  line  of  snow- 
sheds  for  forty  miles.  These  sheds  interrupt  the  view,  but  they  serve  an  eminently 
practical  purpose  and  are  necessary  for  winter  travel.  Through  the  loopholes  cut 
in  the  sides  of  the  sheds  the  tourist  catches  tantalizing  glimpses  of  magnificent 
scenery.  Donner  Lake  can  be  seen  below  us,  gleaming  like  a  diamond  in  its 
granite  setting,  while  a  panorama  of  pine-clad  hills  and  splintered  mountain  pinna- 
cles is  spread  before  us.  Plunging  onward  through  the  snow-sheds,  the  two  great 
engines  drag  the  train  upward,  while  below  can  be  seen  the  winding  roadway  we 


Donner,  Webber, 

and 

Independence 
Lakes. 

Waters  of  Crystal 
Whiteness 


TO    THE  COLD  EN   GATE.  1 59 

are  ascending.     Rumbling  through  a  tunnel  the  train  comes  to  a  halt  on  die  highest 

railroad  point  in  the  Sierras. 

Appropriately   named,    this    station    is   the  sum- 


SUMMIT. 

The  Highest  Rnilroad 
Point  in  the  Sierra 

Nevadas. 

Elevation,  7,018  feet. 

Distance  from  Ogden, 
638  miles. 


mil  of  our  railroad  ascent.  For  many  vears  it 
held  the  pre-eminence  as  the  highest  railroad  point 
in  North  America,  and  it  still  deserves  renown 
as  the  first  to  lay  claim  to  so  lofty  an  estate.  This 
is  the  "divide"  from  which  How  various  streams 
through  devious  courses  to  empty  at  last  at  widely 
divergent  points  into  the  great  Sacramento.  Among 
these  streams  are  the  Bear,  the  American,  and  the 
South  Yuba  Rivers.  The  scenery  around  Summit  is 
of  the  grandest  description.  The  mountains  tower  above  us  to  an  altitude  of  ten 
thousand  feet.  Lakes  lie  below  us  and  waterfalls  glimmer  down  the  sides  of  dis- 
tant precipices.  Here  the  sportsman  can  find  ample  scope  for  enjoyment.  Bear 
and  deer  and  a  vast  variety  of  game  haunt  the  wooded  fastnesses  and  the  streams 
abound  in  trout.  The  east-bound  tourist,  who  wishes  to  visit  Lakes  Tahoe  and 
Donner  can  take  the  stage  at  Summit,  and,  after  enjoying  the  delights  of  the  moun- 
tain drive  and  an  unobstructed  view  of  the  sceneiy,  together  with  a  satisfying 
visit  to  the  lakes,  can  again  resume  his  journey  by  taking  the  cars  at  Truckee,  thus 
avoiding  the  up-grade  return  to  Summit. 

Cascade.  Six  miles  beyond  Summit  we  pass  Cascade,  crossing  a  branch  of 
the  Yuba  River.  To  the  westward  lies  Summit  Valley,  a  charming  spot  for  a  sum- 
mer resting-place.  It  is  well  watered  and  abounds  in  luxuriant  meadows,  which 
are  utilized  by  stock  and  dairy  men,  who  have  found  here  an  ideal  spot  for  their 
purposes.  Cascade  is  a  growing  shipping-point  for  cattle  and  their  products. 
(Population,  nominal.  Distance  from  Ogden,  644  miles.  Elevation,  6,645  feet.) 
Soda  Springs.  Many  large  soda  springs  give  their  name  to  this  side 
track.  Their  waters  are  pleasant  to  the  taste  and  medicinal  in  character.  One  of 
the  springs  has  been  improved  and  its  waters  are  bottled  for  shipment.  There  are 
also  hot  springs  in  the  near  vicinity.  (Population,  small.  Distance  from  Ogden, 
647  miles.     Elevation,  6,749  feet.) 

Emigrant  Gap.  Here  we  catch  the  last  sight  of  the  old  emigrant  wagon 
road,  which  we  have  seen  from  time  to  time  for  the  last  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles.  (Population,  200.  Distance  from  Ogden,  660  miles.  Elevation,  5,225 
feet.) 

Blue  Canon,  Shady  Run,  Towles,  and  Alta  are  small  stations  which  we  pass 
in  rapid  succession. 

Rlltcll  Flat.  Population,  700.  (Distance  from  Ogden,  675  miles.  Eleva- 
tion: 3-595  feet-) 

Historic  Ground.  To  the  "men  of  '40"  the  names  of  Alta  and 
Dutch  Flat  call  up  many  memories  of  stirring  times.  The  stages  still  run  from 
Dutch  Flat  to  "You  Bet"  and  "Little  York,"  where  mines  are  still  worked;  but 
the  palmy  days  made  historic  by  the  achievements  of  the  "John  Oakhursts, " 
"Sandy  McGees, "  and  "Hank  Monks"  have  passed  away.  A  glimpse  can  be 
caught  of  a  scenic  attraction  of  paramount  interest  as  the  train  passes  Shady  Run. 
This  is  the  famous  American  Canon,  with  walls  two  thousand  feet  high,  and  of 
such  wonderful  perpendicularity  that  the  American  River,  which  flows  between 
them,  has  never  been  ascended  for  a  distance  of  two  miles — the  extent  of  the 
canon. 


CAPE    HORN. 


A  Scenic  Wonder. 


1 60  OVER    THE  RANGE 

There  are  few  mountain  passes  more  famous 
than  that  known  to  the  world  as  "Cape  Horn." 
The  approach  to  it  is  picturesque.  The  north 
fork  of  the  American  River  is  seen  raging  and 
foaming  in  its  rocky  bed,  fifteen  hundred  feet 
below  and  parallel  with  the  track.  A  little  further 
on  we  see  the  north  fork  of  the  North  River  leap- 
ing in  snowy  cascades  down  the  mountainside. 
The  train  rolls  on  and  soon  is  clinging  to  the  side 
of  a  mountain  wall,  which  climbs  to  the  clouds  above  it  and  drops  to  the  waters 
beneath;  a  hand  thrust  from  the  window  of  the  car  could  drop  a  stone  straight 
as  the  plummet  falls,  into  the  chasm,  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet  below.  We 
are  rounding  Cape  Horn!  The  road  having  been  carved  from  the  solid  rock, 
the  workmen,  when  building  the  same  were  suspended  from  the  cliff  above  by 
means  of  ropes  until  they  had  blasted  sufficient  to  gain  a  foothold.  A  beautiful 
valley  lies  beneath  us  to  the  left,  and  across  this  vale  on  the  opposite  side  can  be 
seen  the  line  of  road  on  which  we  shall  soon  appear.  The  descent  now  begins,  and 
Rice's  Ravine  is  crossed,  the  trestle  bridge  being  878  feet  in  length  and  113  feet  in 
height.  The  narrow  gauge  railroad,  which  we  see  beneath  us,  is  the  line  from 
Colfax  to  Nevada  City.  From  the  trestle  we  pass  to  an  embankment,  and  from 
the  embankment  to  the  solid  roadway  on  the  side  of  the  bluff.  We  have  followed 
the  curving  road  until  now  we  are  opposite  the  tremendous  precipice,  from  whose 
fearful  height  we  have  but  just  descended. 

Colfax.  Named  after  the  statesman,  Schuyler  Colfax,  a  steadfast  friend  to 
the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  during  the  early  days  of  its  existence.  This  town  is 
thriving  and  prosperous.  Fruit  raising  has  taken  the  place  of  the  original  industry 
of  mining,  and  the  financial  results  appear  to  be  eminently  satisfactory.  There  is 
a  large  and  handsome  depot  erected  at  this  place,  it  being  the  distributing  point 
for  Grass  Valley,  Nevada  City,  and  a  large  area  of  agricultural  and  mining  country- 
The  trains  of  the  Nevada  County  Railroad  (narrow  gauge)  run  to  and  from  this 
depot.  (Population,  700.  Distance  from  Ogden,  689  miles.  Elevation,  2,422 
feet.) 

Auburn.  The  approach  to  Auburn  is  made  through  a  rugged  country,  a 
tunnel  seven  hundred  feet  in  length  being  passed  just  before  reaching  Clipper  Gap 
— beyond  this  can  be  seen  the  famous  gold-fields,  now  abandoned.  The  town  of 
Auburn  is  embowered  with  fruit  trees,  is  well  built  and  prosperous,  having  first- 
class  hotels,  good  water,  electric  lights,  street  railway,  and  all  "modern  improve- 
ments." Many  of  the  residents  of  San  Francisco  and  Sacramento  spend  a  part 
nf  their  summers  at  this  mountain  town.  Fruit  raising  has  usurped  the  place  of 
mining  among  these  foothills  of  the  western  slope — vineyards,  orchards,  and  vege- 
table gardens,  are  now  seen  on  all  sides.  This  condition  of  things  exists  all  along 
the  slope,  and  for  a  distance  of  twenty  miles  we  pass  through  California's  semi- 
iropical  fruit  belt.  The  quarrying  of  stone  and  stock  raising  are  also  important 
vndustries.  (Population,  2,500.  Distance  from  Ogden,  708  miles.  Elevation, 
T,36o  feet.) 

Newcastle.  Is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  farming  region,  and  is  an 
important  shipping  point  for  the  Placer  County  fruit  belt.  Here  are,  also,  a 
number  of  extensive  canning  and  fruit  drying  establishments,  with  unlimited  ca- 
pacity. The  early  citrus  fruits  are  grown  and  shipped  from  this  point.  (Popula- 
tion. 500.     Elevation,  970  feet.     Distance  from  Ogden,  712  miles.) 


1 62  OVER    THE  RANGE 

Leaving  Newcastle  we  pass  Penryn  and  Loomis,  both  of  which  are  fast  becoming 
famous  as  distributing  points  for  the  fruits  of  this  fruitful  region. 

Rocklill.  This  little  town  lies  at  the  base  of  the  foothills,  and  is  fameH  for 
the  excellent  quality  of  the  granite  found  in  its  quarries.  The  roundhouse  and 
machine  shops  of  the  railroad  company,  located  here,  are  built  of  this  material. 
The  State  House  at  Sacramento,  and  many  of  San  Francisco's  "sky  scrapers," 
are  erected  of  Rocklin  granite.  (Population,  1,100.  Distance  from  Ogden,  721 
miles.     Elevation,  249  feet.) 

Roseville.  This  station  is  the  junction  point  for  the  east  side  of  the  great 
Sacramento  Valley  and  Portland,  Oregon;  it  is  here  the  "Shasta  Route"  of  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad  intercepts  the  main  Transcontinental  Line.  (Popula- 
tion, 450.     Distance  from  Ogden,  725  miles.     Elevation,  163  feet.) 

The  Plains  Region.  A  glance  from  the  car  window,  or  a  reference  to 
the  elevation  of  Roseville,  given  in  the  paragraph  above,  will  show  the  tourist 
that  the  region  of  mountains  and  foothills  lies  behind  him,  and  that  the  fertile 
plains  of  California  have  been  reached.  Broad  expanses  of  gently  rolling  country 
greet  the  eye,  dotted  here  and  there  with  the  round-topped,  dark-foliaged  live- 
oaks,  which  form  strikingly  characteristic  features  in  the  landscape.  Here  and 
beyond  in  the  Sacramento  Valley  are  the  great  wheat-fields  of  the  State,  famous 
in  the  past  for  their  enormous  yield  and  the  magnificent  scale  upon  which  the 
raising  of  this  cereal  is  carried  on.  Now,  however,  fruit  raising  is  gradually  usurp- 
ing this  territory,  and  orchards  and  vineyards  are  frequently  seen. 

American  River  Bridge.  This  bridge  spans  the  current  of  the 
American  River,  and  Sacramento  is  only  three  miles  distant.  (Distance  from 
Ogden,  740  miles.     Elevation,  49  feet.) 

As  is  the  almost  universal  rule  in  the  case 
of  large  cities  one  gets  a  very  unsatisfactory  view 
of  the  town  from  the  railroad  station.  Several 
days  can  be  pleasantly  and  profitably  spent  by  the 
tourist  in  Sacramento.  It  is  handsomely  built  and 
its  shaded  streets  and  flower-ornamented  yards  pre- 
sent an  exceedingly  attractive  appearance.  It  has 
a  complete  system  of  electric  street  railways. 
Being  the  capital  of  California,  the  county-seat  of 
Sacramento  County,  and  the  third  commercial  city 
in  the  State,  it  has  a  most  prosperous  present  and 
promising  future.  More  trains  arrive  and  depart  each  day  than  in  any  other  town 
or  city  in  the  State.  Sacramento,  being  the  geographical  center,  it  is  the 
great  distributing  point  for  California.  Three-fourths  of  all  the  fruits  shipped 
from  this  State  each  year  are  shipped  from  this  point.  It  is  at  this  place 
all  the  principal  buyers  and  shippers  locate  for  the  purchase  of  fruits 
and  vegetables.  The  Southern  Pacific  Company's  shops  (which  employ  from 
2,000  to  3,000  men  constantly,  covering  an  area  of  twenty-five  acres  of 
land),  the  largest  cannery  and  packing-houses  in  the  State,  a  woolen  mill, 
foundry,  machine  shops,  etc.,  are  located  in  Sacramento.  For  a  manufacturing 
town,  the  location  of  Sacramento  cannot  be  excelled.  It  is  ninety  miles 
from  San  Francisco,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  numerous  daily  trains, 
and  by  river  steamers.  Many  of  its  wholesale  houses  rival  those  at  San  Francisco 
in  the  amount  of  business  transacted.  It  has  fine  wide  streets  lined  with  shade 
trees,  manv  substantial  business  blocks,  elegant  residences,  and  good  hotels.     The 


SACRAMENTO. 

California's  Capital. 

Population,  35,000. 

Elevation,  30  feet. 

Distance  from  Ogden, 
743  miles. 


FEBRUARY,  SACRAMENTO  VALLEY. 


VINEYARD,  SACRAMENTO  VALLEY. 


164  OVER    THE   RANGE 

State  Capitol,  State  Printing  Office,  State  Agricultural  Exposition  Building  (the 
largest  west  of  the  Missouri  River),  a  Free  Library,  the  largest  Art  Gallery  (with  one 
or  two  exceptions)  in  the  United  States,  an  Old  Ladies'  Home  (where  old  ladies 
have  the  same  care  and  attention,  if  not  better,  than  they  would  have  in  their  own 
homes),  are  located  in  Sacramento,  the  two  latter  were  donated  to  the  city  by  that 
most  estimable  and  philanthropic  of  ladies,  Mrs.  E.  B.  Crocker.  In  fact,  Sacra- 
mento is  the  great  metropolis  of  the  Sacramento  valley. 

The  first  railroad  in  California,  extending  from  Sacramento  into  El  Dorado 
County,  was  formally  opened  on  February  22,  1856.  Work  on  the  Central  Pacific 
Railroad  was  inaugurated  at  Sacramento  January  8,  1863,  and  the  last  spike  was 
driven  May  10,  1869.  Sacramento  is  on  the  line  of  the  California  &  Oregon, 
Western  Pacific,  Central  Pacific,  California  Pacific,  and  Sacramento  &  Placerville 
Railroads.  All  these  roads  are  of  the  Southern  Pacific  System.  The  Company's 
principal  hospital  is  also  located  in  this  city.  A  line  of  steamboats  runs  to  San 
Francisco  on  the  Sacramento  River  and  the  bay,  and  another  as  far  up  the  same 
stream  as  Red  Bluff.  The  Sacramento  River  is  spanned  opposite  the  city  by  a 
railroad  and  wagon  bridge,  connecting  it  with  the  town  of  Washington,  Yolo 
County;  and  the  American  River  is  bridged  on  the  line  of  Twelfth  Street,  and  also 
by  a  railroad  bridge  a  short  distance  above.  All  the  bridges  in  the  county  and 
all  roads  are  free.  The  capital  of  California  was  permanently  located  at  Sa<  ra- 
mento  February  25,  1854,  and  in  1869  the  present  capitol  building  was  com- 
pleted, at  a  cost  of  about  83,000,000  The  building  is  the  finest  in  the  state.  In 
the  Capital  Park  are  also  the  exposition  pavilion  of  the  State  Agricultural  Society, 
and  the  State  Printing  Office,  in  which  are  printed,  in  addition  to  the  usual  work 
for  the  state,  the  text-books  for  use  in  the  public  schools.  The  State  Agricul- 
tural Society  has  also  an  extensive  park  for  the  exhibition  of  stock,  and  one  of  the 
finest  race  tracks  in  the  world.  The  State  fairs  are  annually  held  in  September.  The 
Masons  and  Odd  Fellows  have  each  imposing  temples,  in  which  their  lodge-rooms 
are  located.  The  United  Slates  Government  has  erected  a  postomce  building, 
for  which  an  appropriation  of  $100,000  was  made.  The  County  Court  House 
(formerly  used  for  a  state  capitol)  cost  8200,000;  and  a  brick  and  iron  hall  of  records 
has  recently  been  completed  at  a  cost  of  850,000.  The  County  Hospital,  built 
on  the  pavilion  plan,  can  accommodate  one  hundred  and  seventy  live  patients,  and 
cost  $75,000.  The  State  Library  contains  some  sixty  thousand  volumes;  the  Free 
Public  Library,  of  twelve  thousand  volumes,  with  the  two-story  building  in  which 
it  is  contained,  is  the  property  of  the  city,  and  is  maintained  by  a  city  tax.  The 
order  of  Odd-Fellows  maintain  a  library  of  about  eight  thousand  volumes.  The 
Crocker  Art  Gallery  is  also  the  property  of  the  city.  It  is  a  brick  and  iron  building, 
three  stories  high,  and  in  it  are  contained  some  of  the  finest  paintings  and  statuary, 
together  with  an  extensive  cabinet  of  minerals,  the  property  of  the  State. 

Webster.  Leaving  Sacramento,  and  crossing  the  Sacramento  river  on 
a  bridge  600  feet  in  length,  the  train  passes  through  Webster,  which  is  a  suburb 
of  the  city.  Beyond  we  cross  a  belt  of  swampy  country  known  locally  as  "The 
Tules."  The  track  is  elevated  above  the  danger  of  foods  by  means  of  embank- 
ments and  a  trestle  bridge. 

Davis.  This  place  is  the  junction  with  the  main  line  of  a  branch  passing 
through  the  west  side  of  the  Sacramento  Valley  to  Tehama,  the  country  round 
about  being  rich  and  fertile,  and  capable  of  producing  an  unlimited  amount  of 
-ruit,  cereals,  and  vegetables.     Distance  from  Ogden,  736  miles. 

Tremont,  Dixon,  Batavia,  are  soon  passed,  when  we  arr.ve  at 


166  OVER    THE   RANGE 


ELMIRA. 

Junction  Point 

to 

Vaca  and  Capay 

Valleys. 


At  this  point  the  tourist  will  do  well  to  take  the 
side  trip  through  the  great  Vaca  and  Capay  Valleys. 
These  valleys  supply  all  the  earliest  fruits  and 
vegetables.  The  soil  is  of  surprising  fertility, 
yielding  bountifully  of  every  crop  with  no  necessity 
for  irrigation.  The  climate  is  superb,  it  being  a 
continual  Indian  summer  the  entire  year.  The 
health  of  the  inhabitants,  their  industry,  wealth,  and 
prosperity,  have  all  tended  to  make  this  place  the 
most  desirable  for  settlement.  Semi-tropical  and  citrus  fruits  grow  luxuriantly, 
and  are  of  unusual  size  and  lusciousness.  These  valleys  are  veritable  gardens  of 
Eden,  and  a  continuous  panorama  of  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  country.  Van- 
den  and  Suisun  are  more  or  less  important  stations,  but  of  no  especial  interest 
to  the  tourist.  Having  passed  Suisun  the  waters  of  Suisun  Bay  approach  the 
track,  and  at  high  tide  ripple  against  the  embankment.  ■  For  twelve  miles  this  bay 
is  always  in  close  proximity. 

Army  Point.  Distance  from  Ogden,  797  miles.  This  is  the  station  for 
the  headquarters  of  the  United  States  army  in  California. 

Beilicia.  Situated  on  the  southern  slope  of  the  Suscol  hills,  Benicia  extends 
down  to  the  bank  of  the  Sacramento  River.  This  is  the  head  of  navigation  for 
sea-going  ships  and  is  a  very  charmingly  situated  city.  Benicia  was  at  one  time 
the  capital  of  California,  but  is  now  a  quiet  residence  town,  with  a  number  of  large 
manufacturing  interests  to  maintain  its  commercial  importance.  (Population, 
3,000.     Distance  from  Ogden,  800  miles.     Elevation    10  feet.) 

Crossing"  the  Straits  of  Carquinez.  From  Benicia  to  Port  Costa 
the  journey  is  continued  on  the  Solano,  the  largest  ferry-boat  in  the  world.  This 
boat  can  transport  at  one  time  fifty-four  loaded  freight  cars  and  consequently  finds 
no  difficulty  in  bearing  our  entire  train,  including  the  monster  locomotive,  safely 
across  the  straits,  a  distance  of  one  mile,  with  an  expenditure  of  little,  if  any,  more 
than  twenty  minutes  of  time.  To  most,  this  experience  is  a  novel  one,  and  the  cars 
arc  quickly  emptied  by  their  occupants,  and  the  tourists  gaze  delightedly  at  the 
broad  expanse  of  waters  and  inhale  gratefully  the  invigorating  saline  odors  wafted 
from  the  neighboring  ocean.  The  cars  are  run  directly  onto  the  boat  and  when 
Port  Costa  is  reached  the  journey  by  rail  is  resumed. 

Port  Costa.  Here  the  sea-going  ships  can  be  seen  lying  close  to  the 
wharfs,  and  the  tourist  begins  to  appreciate  the  fact  that  his  long  journey  to  the 
Pacific  coast  is  nearly  completed.  At  this  point  the  Southern  Pacific's  line  to  Los 
Angeles  and  the  San  Joaquin  Valley  branches  to  the  southwest. 

Vallejo  Junction.  Vallejo  lies  across  the  straits  a  distance  of  two  miles. 
At  this  junction  a  branch  line  runs  to  Napa  and  Calistoga,  also  to  Santa  Rosa. 

Pinole.      Another  town  of  wharfs  and  warehouses. 

Sixteenth  Street,  Oakland.  This  is  the  small  station  for  the  large  city 
of  Oakland.  The  great  Bay  of  San  Francisco  lies  to  our  right  and  beyond  can  be 
seen  the  spires  of  San  Francisco. 

Oakland  Mole.  This  marvel  of  engineering  has  been  constructed  for  two 
miles  directly  out  into  the  bay.  At  its  terminus  is  an  immense  building  containing 
waiting-rooms  and  all  necessary  accommodations  for  the  convenience  of  the  great 
army  of  travelers  who  disembark  on  the  arrival  of  trains.  All  the  passenger  trains 
for  the  east,  north,  or  south  are  made  up  at  this  depot,  and  here  all  incoming  passen- 
gers leave  their  trains  and  are  transported  on  magnificent  ferry-boats  to  San  Francisco. 


SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  SAN  DIEGO. 


5AN  FRANCISCO. 

The  Great  City 

by 

The  Golden  Gate. 

Population,  450,000. 


The  first  view  of  San  Francisco  which  the  over- 
land tourist  obtains  from  the  bow  of  the  ferry-boat 
that  bears  him  from  Oakland  Mole  to  the  foot  of 
Market  Street,  is  most  enchanting.  A  city  set  on  a 
hill,  beautiful  for  situation,  it  commands  attention 
and  demands  the  most  enthusiastic  admiration. 
Nor  does  "familiarity  breed  contempt."  The  first 
pleasant  impression  is  confirmed  and  deepened  by 
every  day's  experience  within  the  gates  of  this  most 
hospitable  and  beautiful  city.  Fitz  Hugh  Ludlow, 
whose  early  death  was  a  great  loss  to  literature,  if 
one  may  judge  by  the  early  fruitage  of  a  tree  too 
soon  cut  down  by  cruel  frost,  speaks  glowing  words,  and  true  ones,  of  this  city  In 
the  sea.  He  says:  "To  a  traveler  paying  his  first  visit,  it  has  the  interest  of  a  new 
planet.  It  ignores  the  meteorological  laws  which  govern  the  rest  of  the  world. 
There  is  no  snow.  There  are  no  summer  showers.  The  tailor  recognizes  no 
aphelion  or  perihelion  in  his  custom;  the  thin  woolen  suit  made  in  April,  is  com- 
fortably worn  until  April  again.  Save  that  in  so-called  winter  frequent  rain  falls 
alternate  with  spotless  intervals  of  amber  weather,  and  that  soi-disant  summer 
is  an  entire  amber  mass,  its  unbroken  divine  days  concrete  in  it  there  is  no  inequality 
on  which  to  forbid  the  bans  between  May  and  December.  In  San  Francisco 
there  is  no  work  for  the  scene-shifter  of  Nature.  The  wealth  of  that  great  dram- 
atist, the  year,  resulting  in  the  same  manner  as  the  poverty  of  dabblers  in  private 
theatricals — a  single  flat  doing  service  for  the  entire  play.  Thus,  save  for  the 
purposes  of  notes  of  hand,  the  almanac  of  San  Francisco  might  replace  its  mutable 
months  and  seasons  with  one  great,  kindly,  constant,  sumptuous  All  the  Year 
'Round.  Out  of  this  benignant  sameness  what  glorious  fruits  are  produced! 
Fruit  enough,  metarphorical,  for  the  scientific  man  or  artist  who  cannot  make 
hay  while  such  a  sun  shines,  from  April  to  November,  must  be  a  slothful  laborer 
indeed.  But,  fruit  also  literal;  for  what  joy  of  vegetation  is  lacking  to  the  man 
who,  every  month  in  the  year,  can  look  through  his  study  window  on  a  green  lawn, 
and  have  strawberries  and  cream  for  his  breakfast.  Who  can  sit  down  to  this 
royal  fruit,  and  at  the  same  time  to  apricots,  peaches,  nectarines,  blackberries,  rasp- 
berries, melons,  figs,  both  yellow  and  purple,  early  apples,  and  grapes  of  many  kinds." 
But  aside  from  the  claims  of  climate,  which  appealed  so  strongly  to  Ludlow, 
San  Francisco  has  artistic  and  architectural  claims  that  command  respect  and 
admiration,  to  say  nothing  of  her  vast  commercial  and  mercantile  interests. 

San  Francisco  has  suffered  greatly  from  fire  in  the  past,  but  has  always  arisen 
from  its  ashes  in  renewed  beauty.  A  condensed  history  of  these  great  conflagra- 
tions may  be  of  interest: 

December  24,  1849.  First  great  fire.  More  than  $1,000,000  worth  of  prop- 
erty destroyed. 

168 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  1 6g 

May  4,  1850.     Second  great  fire.     Three  blocks  of  buildings  consumed.     Loss, 

$4,000,000. 

June  14,  1850.     Third  great  fire.     Loss,  $5,000,000. 

September  17,  1850.  Fourth  great  fire.  An  extensive  area  of  comparatively 
inexpensive  buildings  destroyed.     Loss,  $500,000. 

December  14,  1850.  Fire  on  Sacramento  and  Montgomery  streets.  Loss, 
$1,000,000.     This  is  not  gent-rally  classed  among  the  great  tires. 

May  4,  185 1.  Fifth  great  lire.  Eighteen  blocks  entirely  burned,  and  par'., 
of  six  others  destroyed.  The  length  of  the  burned  district  was  three-fourths  of  a 
mile,  and  its  width  half  a  mile.     Loss,  $10,000,000,  to  $12,000,000. 

June  22,  1851.  Sixth  great  fire.  Ten  blocks  and  parts  of  six  others  destroyed. 
Loss,  $3,000,000. 

When  the  Oakland  ferry-boat,  a  most  magnificent  steamer  by  the  way,  enters 
her  pier,  at  the  magnificent  ferry  depot,  at  the  foot  of  Market  Street,  the  traveler 
will  find  ample  means  of  conveyance  to  any  hotel.  If  of  an  economical  turn  of 
mind  he  can  board  a  cable  or  an  electric  car,  after  running  the  gauntlet  of  vociferous 
"cabbies,"  and  for  five  cents  be  carried  smoothly  and  quickly  to  almost  any  part  of 
the  city;  or,  handing  his  baggage  checks  to  one  of  the  agents  of  the  United  Carriage 
Company,  he  can  drive  to  his  destination  in  considerable  more  "style,"  and  at  a  mod- 
erate expense,  the  amount  being  determined  by  the  distant  <■  traveled  —but  extortion 
need  not  be  feared,  as  cab  fares  are  regulated  by  a  city  ordinance.  Once  at  home 
in  hotel  or  lodgings — and  San  Francisco  can  furnish  either  of  these  of  the  verv  best 
character — the  traveler  can  map  out  excursions  in  the  city  and  its  environs  that 
will  pleasantly  occupy  his  time  for  a  fortnight,  or  which  can  be  crowded  into  the 
space  of  three  or  four  days. 

Everybody  has  heard  of  the  Cliff  House  and 
the  Seal  Rocks.  These  attractions  are  pretty  sure 
to  command  first  attention.  The  Cliff  House  may 
be  reached  by  three  carriage  routes.  These  are 
tersely  described  by  Mr.  Charles  Turrell,  in  his  val- 
uable California  notes,  as  follows:  "One  of  these 
routes  is  the  old  road  that  begins  at  the  Mission  and 
winds  over  the  hills,  affording  many  attractive  views 
of  the  city  and  the  bay  beyond,  the  Contra  Costa 
Mountains  and  Mount  Diablo  towering  in  the  re- 
mote east.  This  road  descends  to  the  ocean  beach,  passing  near  Merced  Lake — 
Laguna  de  la  Merced — the  largest  lake  in  the  county.  From  the  Ocean  Side  House 
to  the  Cliff  House,  a  distance  of  some  two  and  a  half  miles,  the  road  follows  the 
sandy  beach.  As  this  road  is  quite  long,  and  the  latter  part  very  heavy,  but  few 
follow  it.  Another  route  is  by  Point  Lobos  Avenue,  a  broad,  well-paved 
street,  commencing  at  the  western  end  of  Geary  Street  and  continuing  in  a  straight 
line  to  the  ocean  beach.  This  was  for  many  years  the  fashionable  drive  for  San 
Franciscans.  However,  since  the  Golden  Gate  Park  has  been  opened,  and  its 
serpentine  drives  to  the  beach  completed,  the  Point  Lobos  road  has  fallen  into 
disuse."  This  drive  is  the  one  we  took,  and  we  found  it  a  most  charming  way. 
There  are  several  street  railway  lines  leading  direct  to  the  Cliff  House,  and  by  the 
use  of  the  liberal  "transfer"  system  a  journey  to  the  Cliff  House  can  be  made  for 
ten  cents.  These  car  lines  pass  through  the  residence  portion  of  the  city  and  serve 
a  double  purpose,  that  of  viewing  the  city  while  en  route  to  its  confines.  From 
Inspiration  Point  we  obtained  a  fine  view  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  the  Golden 


CLIFF    HOUSE 

AND 

SEAL   ROCKS. 

Novel  and  Characteristic 
Attractions. 


170 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


;  i  F  ~f:  W  WmtyWWl  I 

i  il  fl  fllillif  li  II II I  If 


Gate.  The  most  characteristic  objects  of  interest  at  the  terminus  of  this  drive,  or 
car  ride,  are  the  Seal  Rocks  and  their  curious  occupants.  The  rocks  aro  conical 
in  shape,  three  in  number,  and  vary  in  height  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet.  These 
rocks  are  the  haunts  of  seals,  and  it  is  said  that  there  is  never  a  moment  when  scores 
of  these  curious  marine-mammals  may  not  be  seen  basking  in  the  rays  of  the  sun 
on  these  rocks,  or  struggling  among  themselves  for  a  place  thereon.  These  seals 
are  protected  by  law,  and  there  is,  therefore,  no  great  danger  of  future  travelers 
visiting  Seal  Rocks  only  to  be  disappointed. 

The  Cliff  House  is  conducted  as  a  first-class  hotel  and  restaurant,  and  all  crea- 

,  ,      ture  comforts  are  here  obtainable. 

There  are  numerous  other  attrac- 
tions in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cliff  House, 
notably  among  them  being  Sutro 
Heights,  the  private  grounds  and  art 
collections  of  former  Mayor  Sutro,  a 
beautiful  spot  overlooking  the  Cliff 
House  and  Seal  Rocks  and  the  ocean. 
The  Sutro  baths  are  also  here,  being 
an  extremely  large  and  very  complete 
bathing  establishment,  with  one  of  the 
largest  plunge  pools  in  the  world. 

Golden  Gate  Park.    In  this 

magnificent  expanse  of  shaven  lawns, 
serpentine  drives  and  shady  walks,  gor- 
geous flowers,  groves  of  tropical  and 
semi-tropical  trees  and  shrubs,  charming- 
ly cool  and  inviting  nooks,  its  aviary,  its 
zoological  collections,  museums,  monuments,  and  conservatories,  San  Francisco  pos- 
sesses, perhaps,  the  most  complete  and  beautiful  public  park  on  the  continent.  A  few 
years  ago  this  veritable  "Garden  of  Eden"  was  a  waste  tract  of  more  than  a  thou- 
sand acres  of  shifting  sand  dunes,  bleak,  dreary,  and  uninviting;  to-day — the  hang- 
ing gardens  of  Babylon  were  a  failure  when  compared  with  the  achievements  here. 
When  visiting  San  Francisco  there  are  many  places  to  be  seen  and  visited,  but  the 
Golden  Gate  Park  should  be  the  first,  and  then  the  last,  and  bear  away  with  you 
an  impression  of  nature  in  all  her  loveliness. 


CLIFF    HOUSE. 


CONSERVATORY,   GOLDEN   GATE   PARK. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


I7l 


San    Francisco   Bay.     As    a    harbor    it 

ranks  among  the  few  greal  seaports  of  the  world. 
A  land-locked  sheet  of  water,  some  fifty  miles  long, 
and  of  varying  width.  Il  has  the  advantage  of 
lying  at  the  central  edge  of  a  great  area  of  agricul- 
tural land.  The  shipments  through  this  port  are 
very  heavy,  giving  constant  employment  to  a  large 
fleet  of  steamers  and  sailing  vessels.  It  is,  also,  the 
terminal  point  of  the  great  transcontinental  routes. 
If  the  tourist  will  take  a  seat  on  the  dummv  o\ 
either  the  California  Street  or  Jackson  Street  cable  cars  and  ride  as  far  as  Mason 
Street,  the  trip  will  be  amply  rewarded.     Perhaps  the  best  time  to  view  this  mag- 


SAN    FRANCISCO 
BAY. 

A  Beautiful  Sheet  of 

Water,  and 
Land-Locked  Harbor 
of  Inestimable  Value. 


SAN   FRANCISCO   AND   BAY. 


nificent  panorama  would  be  in  the  forenoon.  To  the  left  we  have  the  Golden  Gate, 
the  wonderfully  beauteous  entrance  to  the  still  more  beautiful  bay;  to  the  right 
the  sheet  of  water  merges  into  the  distant  hills  bordering  the  Santa  Clara  Valley. 
Before  us  lie,  in  semi-circular  form,  Mt.  Tamalpais,  standing  on  the  northern  side 
of  the  Golden  Gate;  Saucelito,  San  Pablo  Bay,  the  ddbouchere  of  California's  two 
great  rivers — the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin;  then  we  have  the  Contra  Costa 
Mountains,  and,  just  beyond,  Mount  Diablo's  graceful  peak,  while  nestling  at  their 
base  we  distinctly  trace  the  towns  of  Berkeley,  Oakland,  Alameda,  Haywards, 
and  Oakland  Mole.  The  steamers  of  the  ferry  lines  may  be  viewed  plowing  their 
rapid  way  to  and  from  San  Francisco.  Clbse  to  the  Pier,  Goat  Island  rises  three 
hundred  and  forty  feet  out  of  the  water.  It  is  the  most  southerly  island,  in  the 
bay,  save  the  Mission  Rock,  now  surrounded  by  warehouses,  etc.  West  of  Coat 
Island  is  Alcatraz  Island,  situated  about  one  mile  due  east  of  the  Golden  date, 
whose  entrance  it  commands.  It  is  one-third  of  a  mile  long  and  one-tenth  of  a 
mile  wide,  irregular  in  shape,  and  contains  about  twelve  acres,  composed  mainly 
of  solid  rock.  A  perfect  belt  of  batteries  surround  the  island,  mounting  several 
very  heavy  guns  on  all  sides  as  well  as  on  the  top.  On  the  highest  point  of  the 
island  stands  a  light-house,  whose  light  can  be  seen,  on  a  clear  night,  twelve  miles 
at  sea,  outside  of  the  Golden  Gate.     Next  in  succession  is  Angel  Island,  three 


172 


OVER    THE   RANGE 


miles  north  of  San  Francisco,  the  largest  and  most  valuable  island  in  the  bay.  It 
contains  six  hundred  acres  of  excellent  land,  watered  in  many  places  bv  natural 
springs.  Three  fixed  batteries,  mounting  large,  heavy  guns,  are  here  besides 
large  barracks,  accommodating  the  garrison.  On  the  bay  we  see  craft  of  every 
kind,  from  the  tiny  skiff  to  the  monster  ocean  steamers.  Scows  and  steamers 
may  be  seen  in  every  direction;  the  propeller,  the  paddler,  are  all  here  in  busv 
activity.     Fringing  the  water  front  is  a  forest  of  masts,  the  black  hulls  from  whence 


MARKET   STREET,    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

they  spring  being  scarcely  visible  on  account  of  the  long  line  of  the  sea-wall  and 
warehouses  that  intercept  the  view.  In  every  direction,  lying  peacefully  at  anchor, 
are  vessels  just  arrived  or  about  to  depart.  Here,  too,  snugly  harbored,  are  the 
little  yachts  of  the  different  dubs— white-winged  birds  of  pleasure. 

There  are  several  "squares"  in  San  Francisco,  the  most  noted  of  which  is 
Portsmouth  Square,  with  an  area  of  275  by  204  feet  2  inches.  Its  history  is 
important.  On  July  8,  1846,  Captain  Montgomery,  of  the  United  States  sloop- 
of-war  Portsmouth,  then  lying  in  the  bay,  at  the  command  of  Commodore  Sloat, 
raised  the  American  flag  on  the  plaza  of  what  was  then  called  "Yerba  Buena" — 
now  San  Francisco.  A  salute  of  twenty-one  guns  from  the  Portsmouth  announced 
the  fact  that  the  United  States  had  taken  possession  of  northern  California.  This 
square  was  then  named  Portsmouth  Square,  and  at  the  same  time  Montgomery 
Street  was  named  in  honor  of  the  captain. 


The 

Mission  Dolores. 

Oldest  Building  in 

San  Francisco. 

Founded  Oct.  8,  1776. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  173 

Telegraph  Hill  is  dear  to  the  hearts  of  old  Californians.  In  1849  a  signal 
Station  was  established  on  this  elevation,  and  the  dwellers  at  the  "Bay"  were 
notified  of  the  approach  of  vessels  from  sea  by  means  of  a  well-understood  system  of 
signals.  A  traet  of  275  feet  square  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  has  recently  been  pur- 
chased by  some  public-spirited  citizens  and  presented  to  the  city  fora  perpetual  park. 
Many  tourists  take  interest  in  the  cemeteries  of  a  city;  to  such  a  brief  mention 
of  those  in  San  Francisco  will  be  interesting.  Most  of  these  "cities  of  the  dead"  arc 
best  reached  via  the  Geary  Street  cable  line.  Laurel  Hill  Cemetery,  near  the 
foot  of  a  solitary  hill,  called  Lone  Mountain,  presents  the  finesl  examples  of  mau- 
soleum architecture  in  California.  Landscape  gardening  contributes  greatlv  to 
the  beauty  of  the  scene. 

The  four  principal  cemeteries  of  the  city  surround  Lone  Mountain.  They  are 
"Laurel  Hill,"  "Calvary,"  the  Roman  Catholic  burial  ground,  and  the  cemeteries 
of  the  Masons  and  the  Odd  Fellows. 

The  oldest  building  in  San  Francisco  and  the 
one  most  noted,  considered  historically,  is  the  Mission 
Church,  on  the  corner  of  Dolores  and  Seventeenth 
Streets.  Considerable  of  the  original  building  re- 
mains and  many  of  the  interior  decorations  have 
been,  to  a  certain  degree,  retained  in  their  pristine 
state — sufficient  to  recall  the  times  of  the  early 
fathers.  The  adobe  walls  are  three  feet  thick,  rest- 
ing on  a  low  foundation  of  rough  stone,  not  laid  in  mortar;  and  the  roof  is  covered 
with  heavy  semi-cylindrical  tiles.  The  floor  is  of  earth,  except  near  the  altar,  and 
the  entire  structure  rud/?  in  character  and  still  used  for  purposes  of  worship.  Ad- 
joining it  is  the  Mission  Cemetery,  not  used  for  purposes  of  interment  since  1858. 
Many  of  the  inscriptions  on  the  tombs  are  in  Spanish.  Clustering  around  the 
mission  are  a  few  adobe  buildings,  red  tiled  but  dilapidated,  yet  speak  to  the  thought- 
ful of  five  score  years  and  more.  It  is  best  reached  by  taking  the  Castro  Street 
cable  car. 

The  theaters  are  numerous  and  first  class,  but  English  theaters  are  the  same 
in  kind  the  world  over,  and  need  no  special  description.  Not  so,  however,  with 
the  Chinese  theater.  This  is  sui  generis,  entirely  novel  and  of  remarkable  interest- 
There  are  two  or  three  of  these  theaters  in  San  Francisco,  and  the  histrionic  pecu- 
liarities of  the  Celestrial  drama  can  here  be  seen  in  greater  perfection  than  in  a  in- 
other  city  in  the  world,  with  the  exception  of  those  of  China.  There  is  no  danger  in 
visiting  these  theaters,  as  they  are  as  well  conducted,  in  their  peculiar  Chinese  way, 
as  any  other  place  of  amusement;  but  if  there  is  a  party,  especially  if  it  contains 
ladies,  the  escort  of  a  guide  should  be  secured.  Through  his  influence  and  acquaint- 
ance seats  can  be  obtained  upon  the  stage,  and  a  fine  view  of  the  wonderful  perfoi  m- 
ance  obtained.  The  stage  has  no  scenery.  The  orchestra  occupies  the  back  of 
the  stage,  and  the  most  industrious  member  of  it  is  the  man  who  manipulates  the 
big  bronze  cymbals  and  the  gongs.  This  fellow  punctuates  the  dialogue  with 
vigorous  blows  on  his  loud-resounding  instruments,  giving  to  the  drama  the  char- 
acteristic of  operatic  recitative.  The  other  instruments  are  the  Chinese  violin 
and  fife.  The  result  is  a  queer  kind  of  barbaric  harmony,  but  to  the  English  ear 
there  is  absolutely  no  melody.  The  "property"  man  sits  on  the  stage  in  full  view 
of  the  audience  and  supplies  the  actors  with  such  properties  as  they  may  need 
during  the  action  of  the  {day.  The  actors  are  masters  of  their  art.  They  possess 
great  facial  mobility,  and  even  through  their  conventional  "make  up"  one  can 


174  OVER    THE  RANGE 

recognize  their  histrionic  ability.  No  women  are  allowed  to  act  in  the  Chinese 
dramas,  and  all  female  characters  are  played  by  men.  These  actors  are  exceedingly 
clever,  and  in  voice  and  action  imitate  the  weaker  sex  most  admirably.  A  good 
female  impersonator  receives  a  very  large  salary  from  the  management.  Whenever 
it  is  necessary  to  personate  a  death  upon  the  stage,  the  actor  lies  quietly  for  a 
moment,  and  then  calmly  rises  and  walks  off.  A  stick  with  a  tuft  of  horsehair 
represents  a  horse,  and  a  gesture  of  the  leg  signifies  that  the  cavorting  animal  has 
been  mounted.  After  all,  these  conventionalities  are  not  much  more  crude  than 
those  of  the  Shakesperian  age.  The  dramas  are  historical,  and  some  of  them  are 
more  extended  even  than  a  Wagnerian  trilogy — requiring  from  three  to  four 
weeks  to  present  a  single  play. 

It  would  be  vain  for  the  writer  to  attempt  to  give  a  circumstantial  description 
of  the  attractions  of  San  Francisco.  It  would  require  a  volume,  and  the  pen  of  a 
Bayard  Taylor  to  do  the  city  justice.  As  a  convenience  for  strangers,  the  following 
list  of  places  of  amusement  and  points  of  general  interest  is  annexed: 

THEATERS. 

Alcazar    ------         116  O'Farrell 

Alhambra  -         -  X.  E.  cor.  Eddy  and  Jones 

California         -----         414  Bush,  bet.  Kearny  and  Grant  Avenue 

Central    -         -  -  Market,  near  Eighth 

Chinese  -----         623  Jackson  and  816  Washington 

Columbia  9  Powell,  between  Eddy  and  Ellis 

Fischer's  -         -         -         -         -         122  O'Farrell 

Grand  Opera  House  N.  side  Mission,  bet.  Third  and  Fourth 

Grauman's       -  -  Seventh  and  Market 

OrDheum  -----         119  O'Farrell 

Republic  -  Fifth,  near  Market 

Tivoli  -         -         -         3°  Eddy 

Golden  Grate  Park  contains  over  1,000  acres;  extends  from  Baker 
Street  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  three  and  a  half  miles.  Readied  by  Market  Street 
railwav  via  Haight,  Haves,  or  McAllister  streets,  from  ferries;  or,  Geary  Street 
cable,  from  corner  of  Kearny  and  Geary  streets;  and  via  Powell  or  California 
Street  cable.  It  was  in  this  beautiful  park  that  the  Midwinter  Fair  of  1894  was 
located. 

Golden  Gate  Park  comprises  a  most  magnificent  park  with  dense  foliage  and 
flowers  blooming  the  entire  year.  Among  the  points  of  interest  are  the  conserva- 
tory, aviary,  museum,  music  stand,  Egyptian  art  building,  buffalo  paddock, 
Japanese  garden,  Stow  Lake,  Huntington  Falls,  Strawberry  Hill,  Lake  Alvord, 
Children's  House  and  Playground,  Commissioner's  Lodge,  and  several  monuments. 
Most  of  these  can  be  seen  by  driving  through  the  park. 

Hopkins'  Institute  of  Art  displays  a  large  collection  of  fine  paintings 
and  sculpture.  The  interior  is  richly  finished  with  rare  inlaid  woods.  Located  at 
the  corner  of  California  and  Mason  streets  and  commands  a  fine  panoramic  view  of 
the  bay  and  city.  Admission,  25  cents.  Free  first  Friday  of  each  month,  during 
the  daytime. 

New  City  Hall  was  in  course  of  construction  for  twenty  years  and  cost  about 
$6,000,000.  The  large  dome  is  of  special  interest.  The  building  covers  four  acres 
of  ground.  The  Lick  statuary  fronting  the  hall  represents  four  periods  in  the  his- 
torv  of  California. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


J75 


Cliff  House  and  Seal  Rocks.  Point  Lobos,  6  miles  from  city  hall. 
A  magnificent  drive  over  i  perfect  road  leading  through  Golden  Gate  Park;  or,  can 
be  reached  by  Market  Street  cable  railroad,  Huight  Street  division  connecting 
at  terminus  with  trains  of  Park  &  Ocean  railroad  direct  to  Ocean  Beach,  near 
Cliff  House.  Distance  from  Oakland  Ferry,  about  S  miles;  time,  55  minutes; 
fare,  10  cents.  Also  readied  by  Powell  Street  cable  railroad  and  ferries  and  Cliff 
House  railroad. 

Sutro  Heights.  The  private  garden  of  former  Mayor  Adolph  Sutro,  made 
beautiful  beyond  description  by  the  gardener  and  artist,  is  just  back  of  the  Cliff 
House,  but  higher  up.     Open  daily  from  10  A.  M   to  5  p.  m. 


INTERIOR   CHINESE  RESTAURANT,  SAN   FRANCISCO. 


Slltl'O  Baths  are  considered  the  grandest  and  largest  in  the  world.  There 
are  several  bathing  tanks  varying  in  size,  depth,  and  temperature,  with  swimming 
accommodations  for  two  thousand  bathers.  A  large  rock  basin  reservoir  catches 
the  ocean  water  at  high  tide  to  supply  the  tanks.  When  the  tides  are  low  during 
the  summer  season  a  pumping  plant  is  put  in  action.  The  museum  in  the  building 
contains  a  fine  collection  of  interesting  articles  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  Adja- 
cent to  Cliff  House  and  Sutro  Heights. 

Presidio  Reservation.  Fronts  on  the  Golden  Gate  for  about  two  miles. 
It  has  several  beautiful  drives,  is  owned  by  the  government,  and  its  barracks  have 
the  largest  military  force  on  the  Pacific  coast.  The  principal  fortifications,  and 
batteries  of  huge  ten  and  twelve  inch  rifles  and  mortars,  protecting  San  Francisco, 
are  all  located  within  the  Presidio  Reservation.  Drive  out  California  Street,  or 
take  California  Street,  Jackson  Street,  or  Union  Street  cable  cars. 

Postoffi.Ce,  corner  of  Washington  and  Battery  streets.  General  delivery  is 
open  from  7:30  a.m.  to  n  p.m.  every  day,  Sundays  excepted;  Sundays,  from 
1  to  2  p.m.  Branch  postofRce,  station  "A,"  1309  Polk  Street;  "B,"  City  Hall; 
"C,"  Twentieth  and  Mission  streets;  "D,"  Market  Street  wharf;  "E,"  Third 
and  Townsend  streets;  "F,"  Post  and  Devisadero  streets;  "G,"  17th  and  Market 


176  OVER    THE   RANGE 

streets;  "H, "  Laguna  and  Ivy  Avenue;  "J,"  Stockton  and  Union;  "K,"  30  New 
Montgomery.  Branch  offices  are  open  from  8  A.  m.  to  6  p.  M.  daily  except  Sunday. 
Open  on  Sundays  from  ip.m.  to  2  p.  m 

Principal  Libraries.  Academy  of  Sciences,  819  Market  Street,  10,000 
volumes.  Free  Public  Library,  city  hall,  open  9  a.m.  to  9  p.  m.;  Sundays,  1:30 
to  5  p.  m.,  120,000  volumes  and  6,000  pamphlets.  French,  Spring  Valley  building, 
Stockton  and  Geary  streets,  20,000  volumes.  Italian,  32  Montgomery  Avenue,  5,000 
volumes.  Mechanics',  31  Post  Street,  a  splendid  library,  reading  and  chess 
rooms,  75,000  volumes.  Mercantile,  Van  Ness  and  Golden  Gate  avenues,  75,000 
volumes.  San  Francisco  Paw,  city  hall,  30,000  volumes.  San  Francisco  Verein, 
336  Post  Street,  21,000  volumes.     Spanish,  531  California  Street,  2,500  volumes. 

Markets  for  fruit,  flowers,  fish,  game,  and  other  produce:  California  Market, 
California  Street,  below  Kearney;  Center  Market,  Sutter  and  Grant  avenues.  Visit 
early  in  morning.     Semi-tropical  fruits  and  flowers  all  the  year  round. 

United  States  Mint,  Fifth  and  Mission  streets.  Visitors  admitted  from 
9  A.  M.  to  12  noon,  except  Saturday  and  Sunday. 

Mission  Dolores,  founded  1776;  17th  and  Dolores  streets.  Reached  by 
Valencia  Street  division  of  Market  Street  cable  railway. 

Aleatraz  Island  and  Angel  Island.  Permission  to  visit  these  may 
be  secured  at  department  headquarters,  Phelan  Building,  Market  Street,  except 
Sundays.     Steamer  General  McDowell  visits  them  daily. 

Eastern  Railway  Lines.  The  offices  of  all  agents  of  eastern  railroads 
represented  in  San  Francisco,  are  on  Montgomery,  Market,  and  New  Montgomery 
streets;  in  close  proximity  to  Palace,  Grand,  and  Occidental  hotels. 

Mount  Tamalpais  is  fast  becoming  one  of  the  most  popular  and  eagerly 
sought  resorts  in  America,  situated  within  easy  distance  of  San  Francisco,  just  north 
of  the  entrance  to  the  Golden  Gate.  It  commands  a  view  which  is  unsurpassed 
from  any  other  mountain  peak  in  the  world.  Although  but  about  half  a  mile  in  height 
(2,592  feet)  a  trip  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Tamalpais  over  its  world-renowno,  .ailway 
with  its  marvel  of  engineering  ingenuity  is  an  hour's  ride  which  affords  a  wonderful 
panorama  of  mountain  scenery,  ever  picturesque,  ever  new,  ever  changing.  Through 
forest  of  California  redwoods  (Sequoia  Sitpcrvirens),  oaks,  laurels,  and  madronas. 

Oakland.  It  is  to  be  supposed  that  the 
tourist  in  his  stay  in  San  Francisco  has  not  neglected 
to  visit  this  garden  city.  The  town  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  east  shore  of  the  bay,  the  land  slop- 
ing gradually  down  to  the  waters  from  the  Contra 
Costa  Mountains,  which  rise  back  of  the  city  at  a  dis- 
tance of  a  few  miles.  The  foothills  are  crowned 
with  the  suburban  villas  of  wealthy  merchants  of 
Oakland  and  San  Francisco,  and  from  their  veran- 
das can  be  obtained  a  most  extensive  and  pleasing 
view  of  the  bay,  San  Francisco,  and  the  Ocean 
beyond.  Oakland  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  resi- 
dence cities  in  the  world,  and  in  point  of  sylvan  beauty  has  few  if  any  rivals.  The 
houses  are  tastefully  built,  many  of  them  of  the  greatest  elegance,  surrounded  by 
extensive  and  well-kept  grounds,  embowered  in  trees  and  glowing  with  a  lavish 
wealth  of  roses.  It  must  not  be  supposed,  however,  that  Oakland  is  not  also  a 
business  town.  On  the  contrary,  it  possesses  large  mercantile  and  manufacturing 
establishments.     Electric  lights  illuminate  the  wide  and  well-paved  streets;  cable 


OAKLAND. 

Beautiful  Residence 
City. 

Population,  75,000. 

Distance  from 
San  Francisco,  8  miles. 

Elevation,  12  feet. 


1-jS  OVER   THE  RANGE 

and  electric  car  lines  are  numerous  and  none  of  the  modern  improvements  lacking. 
Schools  and  churches  abound.  Oakland  is  a  city  of  colleges,  and  numbers  among 
these  institutions  of  higher  education  the  following:  The  State  University  School, 
the  Oakland  Military  School,  the  Convent  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Sacred  Heart, 
the  Oakland  Female  Seminary,  the  Female  College  of  the  Pacific,  and  the  Univer- 
sity of  California,  at  Berkeley,  four  miles  distant.  Among  the  large  manufacturing 
establishments  may  be  mentioned  the  extensive  machine  shops  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Company,  the  Judson  Manufacturing  Company,  the  Pacific  Iron  and 
Nail  Company,  besides  cotton  mills,  jute  mills,  flour  mills,  and  innumerable  other 
institutions,  employing  a  large  amount  of  capital  and  thousands  of  men.  women, 


OAKLAND. 

and  children.  One  can  reach  San  Francisco  from  Oakland  every  fifteen  minutes 
by  train  and  ferry.  Oakland  is  a  most  charming  place,  and  is  the  home  of  an 
enterprising,  hospitable,  and  intelligent  class  of  people. 

Southward  Round.  Having  spent  a  most  delightful  season  in  San 
Francisco,  the  tourist's  face  is  turned  southward,  and  the  journey  to  Los  Angeles 
and  San  Diego  begins.  Two  routes  are  available  for  this  journey,  either  via  the  line 
through  the  San  Joaquin  Valley,  or  the  more  recently  constructed  "Coast  Line." 
We  will  describe  the  southward  journey  via  the  valley  route  or  the  "Inside  track" 
and  return  via  the  "Coast  Line."  Taking  the  Oakland  ferry,  at  the  foot  of  Market 
Street,  one  is  borne  pleasantly  over  the  waters  of  the  bay  and  lands  at  Oakland  pier, 
where  he  takes  the  Southern  Pacific  train  for  Los  Angeles. 

Roublinj*-  Oil  Our  Track.  From  Oakland  to  Port  Costa  we  follow  the 
same  line  as  that  upon  which  we  entered  San  Francisco,  therefore  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  make  mention  of  the  intervening  stations.  Passing  Port  Costa,  the 
line  has  the  Sacramento  River  on  its  left,  and  rolling  hills  on  its  right.  Beyond 
the  river  can  be  seen  the  town  of  Benicia  nestling  among  the  coves  of  the  Suscal 
Hills. 

Martinez.  A  pleasant  village  among  the  hills.  Fruit  trees  and  vines 
abound,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  towns  and  surrounding  country  are  mainly 
engaged  in  horticulture.  Martinez  is  the  county-seat  of  Contra  Costa  County, 
and  is  a  most  quiet  and  charming  place  of  residence.  Citrus  fruit,  grapes  of  all 
varieties,  and  deciduous  fruits  flourish  without  irrigation,  and  the  climate  is  so 


I  So  OVER    THE   RANGE 

mild  that  semi-tropical  plants  grow  out  of  doors  without  any  special    protection. 
(Population,  1,500.     Distance  from  San  Francisco,  36  miles.) 

Avon,  Bay  Point,  and  Cornwall  are  small  intermediate  stations.  A  branch  line 
extending  from  Avon  to  San  Ramon,  through  a  valley  of  the  same  name.  At  Bay 
Point  are  situated  a  smelter  and  chemical  works. 

From  Martinez  to  Antioch  the  road  passes  through  a  hill  country  on  our  right, 
with  the  river  to  the  left.  Many  deep  cuts  occur,  and  numerous  small  tributaries 
flow  down  the  gulches,  into  the  river.  Up  these  gulches  we  catch  glimpses  of  neat 
farmhouses,  surrounded  by  well-cultivated  fields  and  orchards.  Mount  Diablo 
rises  to  the  south,  and  reaches  an  elevation  of  3,896  feet.  Among  the  foothills 
of  this  mountain  are  the  mining  towns  of  Stewartville,  Empire,  Nortonville,  and 
Somerville.  At  Cornwall  to  our  left  lies  Suisun  Bay,  and  here  the  San  Joaquin 
and  Sacramento  rivers  have  their  junction. 

Antioch.  A  shipping  point  for  coal.  The  town  itself  is  a  mile  north  on 
the  banks  of  the  San  Joaquin  River.  From  this  point,  also,  large  quantities  of  vege- 
tables, strawberries,  fruit,  etc.,  are  shipped  to  San  Francisco.  A  paper  mill  and 
extensive  lumber  yards  are  located  here.  (Population,  700.  Distance  from  San 
Francisco,  55  miles.     Elevation,  46  feet.) 

BeiltAVOod.  Wheat-fields  begin  to  appear  here,  dotted  with  live-oaks. 
The  town  is  small  and  supported  by  agricultural  industries.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Marsh  Grant  of  13,000  acres,  on  which  much  stock  is  fed. 

Byron.  The  most  attractive  thing  about 
this  station,  to  the  invalid  and  the  tourist,  is,  its 
near  proximity  to  the  Byron  Hot  Springs,  situated 
two  miles  to  the  south.  The  country  roundabout 
is  famous  for  its  production  of  wheat,  alfalfa,  fruit, 
and  grapes.  This  being  a  portion  of  the  great  wheat 
belt.  The  hot  springs  have  attracted  much  atten- 
tion, and  a  large  hotel  and  bath-houses  have  been 
erected.  The  springs  are  varied  in  their  characteristics,  being  both  hot  and  cold, 
and  possessing  in  turn  the  constituents  of  sulphur,  iron,  soda,  and  magnesia.  There 
are  mud  baths,  and  in  fact  all  varieties  of  bathing.  The  temperature  of  some  of 
the  springs  is  as  high  as  1300  Fahrenheit. 

Tracy.  The  junction  of  the  old  Western  Pacific  route  from  San  Francisco 
to  Sacramento  via  Livermore  Pass  with  our  line  to  the  south.  Tracy  is  surrounded 
by  broad  wheat-fields,  which  extend  to  the  northward  beyond  the  reach  of  vision. 
(Population,  600.     Distance  from  Sr.n  Francisco,  83  miles.     Elevation,  64  feet.) 

Banta.  Small  station  three  miles  from  Tracy,  after  passing  which  we  cross 
the  San  Joaquin  River  on  a  very  long  drawbridge.  (Population,  500.  Distance 
from  San  Francisco,  86  miles.     Elevation,  30  feet.) 

LatlU'op.  Junction  of  the  old  Western  Pacific  and  the  Sunset  Route.  This 
is  a  regular  meal  station  and  here  the  railroad  company  have  erected  a  large  hotel, 
in  which  are  also  their  offices.  Lathrop  is  in  the  heart  of  the  great  San  Joaquin 
wheat  belt.  (Population,  600.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  94  miles.  Elevation, 
26  feet.) 

The  Sail  Joaquin  Valley.  After  crossing  the  San  Joaquin  river  and 
turning  to  the  right,  our  course  is  up  the  famous  San  Joaquin  Valley — the  great 
granary  of  California.  Here  are  five  million  acres  of  the  best  wheat  land  in  the 
world.  A  valley  two  hundred  miles  long  by  thirty  miles  broad,  which  when  vivified 
by  the  magic  touch  of  irrigation,  produces  not  only  wheat  but  also  almost  every- 


BYRON 
HOT   SPRINGS. 

Bathing  and  Health 
Resort. 


1 1 


l82  OVER    THE  RANGE 

thing  that  can  be  raised  in  tropical  or  temperate  zones — wheat,  corn,  oats,  flax, 
apples,  oranges,  lemons,  figs,  nuts,  olives — the  list  is  too  extended  for  recapitulation. 
Properly  conserved  there  is  water  enough  to  irrigate  the  whole  valley,  and  in  many 
places  the  natural  supply  of  water  has  been  supplemented  by  that  flowing  from 
artesian  wells.  After  passing  Lathrop,  we  rattle  through  a  number  of  small  stations, 
all  of  them  with  large  shipping  warehouses,  speaking  eloquently  of  the  generous 
output  of  the  soil. 

While  not  on  our  direct  route,  a  short  side  trip  from  Lathrop,  on  the  line  to 
Sacramento  brings  us  to 

Stockton.  This  handsome,  well-built  city  of  nearly  25,000  people,  is  the 
commercial  center  of  the  San  Joaquin.  It  is  at  the  head  of  tide-water  navigation, 
and  at  the  junction  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  and  the  Santa  Fe.  It  is  a 
prosperous  city,  with  a  great  future  before  it.  Stockton  has  superior  advantages 
for  manufacturing,  and  for  the  distribution  of  its  products  of  factory  and  field. 
Flour  and  woolen  mills,  harvesters  and  other  agricultural  implements,  mining 
machinery,  street  cars  and  railway  cars,  pottery  and  briquettes,  the  latter  a  com- 
bination of  coal  and  crude  oil,  are  among  its  principal  industries.  Fruit  canning 
and  packing,  too,  has  a  large  place.  The  annual  output  of  its  factories  and  packing 
houses  is  over  $14,000,000.  Fuel  is  cheap  here.  The  coal-fields  of  Tesla  are  near 
by,  the  product  of  which  is  distributed  chiefly  through  this  city.  Natural  gas  is 
supplied  at  a  low  rate,  and  is  used  in  factories,  and  for  heat  and  light  in  private 
houses.     Unlimited  electric  power,  generated  45  miles  away,  is  also  at  command. 

River  Traffic.  Steamers,  barges,  and  sailing  vessels  ply  between  Stockton 
and  the  Bay,  the  river  traffic  being  very  large.  The  distance  is  about  100  miles, 
and  the  volume  of  traffic  is  not  exceeded  by  more  than  three  rivers  in  America. 
The  annual  freightage  is  estimated  at  a  million  and  a  half  of  tons,  and  150,000 
passengers.  The  county  has  873,000  acres,  nearly  all  of  which  is  productive. 
Below  the  city  is  found  the  peat  land,  so  rich  that  $50  an  acre  is  paid  for  the  use 
of  it  for  truck  farming.  This  is  not  an  unusual  figure.  This  vegetable  mould 
yields  enormous  crops  of  onions,  potatoes,  etc.  The  returns,  both  in  quantity  and 
size,  are  almost  incredible.  Much  asparagus  is  raised  on  the  islands  of  the  San 
Joaquin.  Vast  quantities  of  potatoes  arc  grown  in  this  county.  The  yield  is 
often  200  bushels  to  the  acre.  The  early  crop  is  planted  in  December  and  the  main 
crop  from  March  to  June.  They  are  harvested  from  May  to  January.  It  is  a 
common  sight  to  see  men  planting  potatoes  in  one  end  of  a  field  while  digging  is 
going  on  in  the  other. 

Owing  to  the  relation  of  Stockton  to  the  Golden  Gate,  it  has  a  daily  ocean 
breeze,  and  is  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  in  the  union.  Its  water  supply  is  from 
artesian  wells.  The  zone  of  variable  winds  which  draw  in  from  the  sea,  and  em- 
brace the  whole  region,  provides  an  average  rainfall  sufficient  for  most  needs,  but 
irrigation  is  steadily  extending  its  area.  For  local  irrigation,  water  is  found  not 
far  below  the  surface,  and  windmills  are  in  sight  in  many  directions. 

The  city  has  a  half-tropical  air,  and  palms  and  bananas,  a  profusion  of  flower- 
ing shrubs,  and  a  variety  of  shade  trees,  beautify  the  streets  and  grounds  of  private 
residences.     Seen  from  some  elevation,  the  whole  region  seems  a  bower  of  green. 

Public  Utilities.  The  court  house  is  a  fine  granite  structure,  occupying  a 
square,  and  surrounded  by  a  terraced  lawn.  A  free  library  building  is  of  native 
marble,  and  cost  $100,000.  The  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane  embraces  a  group 
of  handsome  buildings,  with  well-kept  grounds,  and  cost  about  $1,000,000.  A  new 
postoffice  is  arranged  for,  the  appropriation  being  $200,000.     Work  is  ready  to  begin. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


183 


The  natural  metropolis  of  a  vast  region,  the  future  of  Stockton  is  well  assured. 
The  growth  of  the  city  will  keep  pate  with  the  developmenl  of  the  country,  and 
there  is  room  in  the  county  alone  for  200.000  people  who  shall  till  the  soil.  Good 
land  can  be  had  for  $20  to  $100  an  acre,  on  easy  terms.  Here  is  rich  soil  and  a 
hungry  market.      The  State  wants  nothing  so  badly  as  farmers. 

Passing  through  Morrano,  Ripon,  and  Salida,  small  wheat  shipping  stations 
for  Stanislaus  County,  we  reach 

Modesto.  County-seat  of  Stanislaus  County,  and  a  prosperous  and  pretty 
town,  surrounded  by  an  industrious  agricultural  people.  (Population,  2,500. 
Distance  from  San  Francisco,  114  miles.     Elevation,  91  feet.) 

Between  Modesto  and  Merced  are  the  unimportant  stations  of  Ceres,  Keyes, 
Turlock,  Delhi,  Arena,  and  Atwater. 


DRYING  RAISINS.    SAN  JOAQUIN  VALLEY. 

Merced.  A  well-built  town,  the  county-seat  of  Merced  County.  Possessed 
of  good  public  buildings,  fine  private  residences,  and  surrounded  by  an  exceedingly 
rich  agricultural  country,  and  destined  to  be  a  great  manufacturing  center,  Merced 
has  prospered  and  wall  continue  to  prosper.  The  county  has  a  population  of  75,000, 
nearly  all  engaged  in  agricultural  pursuits.  (Population,  2,000.  Distance  from 
San  Francisco,  152  miles.     Elevation,  171  feet.) 

Atllloiie.  Before  Athlone  is  reached  we 
cross  the  Mariposa  River,  and  after  it  is  passed  the 
Conchilla  River.  Wheat-fields  arc  on  every  hand. 
Irrigating  ditches  abound.  Vineyards  are  frequent- 
ly to  be  seen.  And  Athlone,  a  quiet  little  village,  sits 
in  the  midst  of  fertile  fields.  (Distance  from  San 
Francisco,  162  miles.     Elevation,  210  feet.) 

This  station  is  situated  at  the  junction  with  the 
main  line  of  the  Yosemite  extension  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad,  which  extends  to  Raymond,  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty-one  miles  to  the  eastward.  From 
Raymond  a  stage  line  extends  to  Wawona,  the 
Yosemite,  and  the  Big  Trees.  From  Berenda  a  good  view  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 
Mountains  can  be  had.      Among  the  highest  peaks  in  view  are  those  of  Mount 


BERENDA. 

Junction  Point 

to  the 

World's  Famous 

Yosemite  Valley. 

Big  Trees,  etc. 


1 84 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


Lyell,  Mount  Tyndal,  Mount  Goddard,  and  Mount  Whitney.  These  mountains, 
which  exceed  14,000  feet  in  altitude,  impress  one  deeply  with  their  vast  propor- 
tions, more  especially  because  we  are  so  near  the  sea  level,  being  at  an  elevation 
of  less  than  three  hundred  feet.  Berenda  has  an  agricultural  and  grazing  country 
directly  tributary  to  it.  (Population,  20c.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  180 
miles.     Elevation,  256  feet.) 

Madera.  This  is  a  leading  shipping  point  for  lumber,  which  is  delivered 
to  this  point  from  the  foothills  by  means  of  a  flume  fifty-eight  miles  in  length.  The 
great  work  of  constructing  this  flume  was  completed  in  1876,  which  has  been  in 
service  ever  since.     The  amount  of  lumber  delivered  in  this  way  during  the  last  ten 


BIG  TREES. 


years  is  something  enormous,  as  may  readily  be  gathered  from  the  fact  that  one 
year's  delivery  amounted  to  over  twenty-two  million  feet.  A  1,000  acre  vineyard 
and  agricultural  lands  add  to  the  importance  of  this  growing  city.  It  is  the  county- 
seat  of  Madera  County.  (Population,  2,500.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  185 
miles.     Elevation,  278  feet.) 

Fresno.  Between  Madera  and  Fresno  there  is  some  interesting  country. 
Just  after  leaving  Madera  we  cross  the  Fresno  River,  beyond  Sycamore  the  San 
Joaquin  River,  and  at  Borden,  Cottonwood  Creek.  The  sand  dunes  will  attract 
your  attention  beyond  Sycamore — queer  little  hills  of  sand  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
feet  in  diameter  and  three  to  six  feet  high.  Fresno  is  the  county-seat  of  Fresno 
County,  the  geographical  center  of  the  state,  and  is  a  most  thriving  and  prosperous 
city,  and  the  center  of  the  great  raisin  belt.  It  has  electric  lights,  telephones,  street 
railroads,  water  works,  in  short,  all  the  modern  improvements.  Redwood  and 
pine  is  the  material  mostly  in  use  for  building  purposes,  and  the  town  possesses 
many  elegant  public  and  private  edifices.  A  great  variety  'of  industries  are  tribu- 
tary to  the  town.  Fresno  County  has  a  vast  territory  planted  to  grapes,  and  pro- 
duces annually  about  75,000,000  pounds  of  raisins,  the  seedless  variety  being 
particularly  fine.  Smyrna  figs  are  also  grown  successfully.  The  shipments  of 
various  farm  products  reach  a  very  high  figure.  There  is  an  abundant  supply 
of  water  for  irrigation,  being  brought  from  the  mountains  by  means  of  canals  having 
an  aggregate  length  of  eleven  hundred  miles  and  costing  two  million  dollars.  The 
capacity  of  these  canals  for  irrigation  covers  a  space  of  over  seven  hundred  thousand 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


<«5 


acres,  thus  making  Fresno  Count}-  one  of  the  richest  agricultural  regions  in  the 
world.  Lombardy  or  the  Nile  Valley  arc  not  richer  in  possibilities.  Many  colonics 
have  formed  settlements  in  the  vicinity  of  Fresno.  These  enterprises,  through 
intelligent  and  united  industry,  have  proved  very  successful.  With  a  salubrious 
climate,  fine  scenery,  fertile  land,  and  an  industrious  people,  Fresno  has  every  reason 
to  anticipate  a  continuance  of  her  phenomena]  success.  (Population,  15,000.  Dis- 
tance from  San  Francisco,  207  miles.     Elevation,  203  fed.) 


BIG  TREE   "WAWONA." 


Clovis,  Pollasky,  and  Malaga  are  small  towns,  whose  industries  are  lumber, 
horticultural  and  agricultural. 

Sellllil.  Surrounded  by  a  wheat-growing  country  and  supplied  with  good 
ttouring  mills,  this  town  is  in  a  flourishing  condition.  A  great  deal  of  wheal  i> 
shipped  from  this  station— twenty  million  pounds  last  year.  Peaches  thrive'  in 
the  neighborhood  and  reach  a  high  state  of  perfection  in  size  and  flavor.  The 
town  has  most  all  the  modern  improvements.  (Population,  2,200.  Distance  from 
San  Francisco,  221  miles.     Elevation,  311  feet.) 

Killjfsburj;-.     This  enterprising   little  town  owes   its   prosperity  to  the  fact 
that  it  is  situated  in  the  famous  wheat  belt.     Here  are  to  be  seen  big  warehouses 


iS6 


OVER    THE   RANGE 


for  storing  wheat,  laige  quantities  of  which  are  shipped  from  this  station  annually 
Soon  after  leaving  the  town,  we  cross  King's  River  on  a  trestle  bridge,  the  approach 
to  which  is  made  over  a  long,  high  embankment.  (Population,  300.  Distance 
from  San  Francisco,  227  miles.     Elevation,  300  feet.) 

King's  River,  a  large,  clear  body  of  water,  rises  in  the   Sierras  to  the 
northeast,  and  flows  southwesterly  in  a  broad  and  tortuous  channel,  irrigating  a 


HOME,    FRESNO. 


large  scope  of  territory.  King's  River  is  the  boundary  line  between  Fresno  and 
Tulare  counties. 

Travel".  This  is  a  new  town,  showing  evidence  of  prosperity  and  thrift, 
possesses  a  flouring  mill,  machine  shops,  planing  mills  and  other  business  enter- 
prises of  commercial  importance.  (Population,  250.  Distance  from  San  Francisco. 
232  miles.     Elevation,  291  feet.) 

GrOShen.  The  junction  of  the  Goshen  division,  which  extends  a  distance 
of  sixty  miles  to  Alcalde.  (Population,  200.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  241 
miles.     Elevation,  286  feet.) 

The  Goshen  Division.  There  are  a  number  of  small  towns  on  this 
branch,  as  follows:  Hanford,  Armona,  Grandeville,  Lemore,  Huron,  and  Alcalde. 
The  land  through  which  the  road  passes  is  very  fertile,  and  prices  for  it  range  from 
one  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  dollars  per  acre.  Oil  has  been  found  on 
this  line  in  paying  quantities. 

Visalia.  This  town  is  the  county-seat  of  Tulare  County,  and  is  situated 
to  the  eastward  of  Goshen,  being  connected  with  that  station  by  means  of  a  branch 


TO    THE  GOLDEN    CAT]-:.  187 

road.  Its  tributary  industries  are  varied,  and  among  them  may  be  mentioned  a 
condensed  milk  factory.  The  BCaweah  River  flows  through  Visalia  and  aids  in 
irrigating  this  most  fertile  region.  (Population,  3,500.  Distance  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, 254  miles.     Elevation,  joo  feet.) 

Resources  of  Tulare  County.  The  resources  of  this  county  arc- 
most  varied,  the  plains  and  the  mountains  meeting  here;  hence,  thi  farming  and 
fruit  raising  of  the  one  are  supplemented  by  the  mining,  lumber  industries,  and  stock 
raising  of  the  other.  There  are  about  two  million  and  a  half  acres  of  territory  in 
the  mountains,  about  eight  hundred  thousand  acres  among  the  foothills,  eleven 
hundred  thousand  acres  of  valley,  and  two  hundred  thousand  acres  in  Tulare  Lake 
and  its  surrounding  "tule"  lands.  The  mountains  are  covered  with  timber,  and 
mines  of  gold,  iron,  copper,  and  zinc  are  worked.  The  foothills  produce  almost  every 
variety  of  deciduous  and  citrus  fruits,  together  with  grapes — both  wine  and  raisin. 

Ten  miles  beyond  Goshen  we  come  to  Tulare, 
a  thriving  town  of  recent  growth,  with  railroad 
roundhouse,  shops,  and  good  station  building. 
This  is  a  large  shipping  point  not  only  via  the  rail- 
road, but  by  means  of  wagons  to  interior  points. 
Wheat  growing  and  stock  raising  are  the  principal 
industries,  though  wine,  grape,  and  fruits  do  well. 
Irrigation  in  the  Artesian  Belt.  The 

question  of  irrigation  in  California  has  been  one 
of  much  vexation  and  exceedingly  difficult  of  solu- 
tion. The  supply  of  water  has  been  so  very  limited 
that  millions  of  acres  of  land,  as  fertile  as  any  in 
the  world  if  irrigated,  and  absolutely  worthless 
without  water,  have  lain  fallow  for  years.  Fortunately  for  California,  it  has  b?en 
discovered  that  this  lack  of  water  can  be  supplied  in  many  instances  through  the 
agency  of  artesian  wells.  In  certain  sections  of  the  country  these  resources  have 
been  developed,  and  the  result  has  been  the  establishment  of  what  are  popularly 
known  as  "artesian  belts. "  One  of  these  zones  extends  from  Caliente  to  Stockton, 
the  greatest  development  being  in  Merced,  Fresno,  Tulare,  and  Kern  counties, 
where  many  hundreds  of  flowing  wells  have  been  established.  These  wells  are 
from  250  to  700  feet  in  depth,  and  an  average  well  will  irrigate  about  150  acres  of 
land.  The  capacity  of  each  well  can  be  largely  increased  by  means  of  storage 
reservoirs.  After  leaving  Tulare  the  derricks  of  artesian  wr  11-bou  rs  can  be  seen 
on  each  side  of  the  railroad  in  great  numbers.  Near  Tulare  is  established  one  of 
the  California  experimental  stations,  where  all  manner  of  agricultural  and  horti- 
cultural products  are  tested  and  reported  upon — fruits,  seeds,  and  grain. 

Tipton  is  a  small  station  of  no  very  great  importance,  except  from  the  fact 
that  it  is  the  shipping  point  for  sheep,  which  are  raised  in  great  numbers  in  the 
surrounding  country.  Seven  miles  to  the  west  lies  Tulare  lake,  which  is  quite 
a  large  body  of  water,  being  thirty  miles  long  by  twenty-five  miles  wide,  and  abound- 
ing in  fish  and  water  fowl.  Tipton  is  surrounded  by  a  good  agricultural  country, 
and  enjoys  its  full  measure  of  prosperity.  (Population,  400.  Distance  from  San 
Francisco,  262  miles.     Elevation,  267  feet.) 

Beyond  Tipton  are  to  be  seen  great  numbers  of  windmills,  used  particularly  for 
the  work  of  irrigation.  Immense  groves  of  eucalyptus,  or  blue  gum  trees  can  be 
seen  from  the  train.  Pixley,  Alila,  Delano,  and  Famoso  are  small  stations  of 
minor  importance.     We  cross  the  Kern  River  between  Famoso  and  Bakersfield. 


TULARE. 

Commercial  and 
Agricultural  Center. 

Population,  4,000. 

Distance  from 

San  Francisco, 

251  miles. 

Elevation,  282  feet. 


1 88  OVER    THE   RANGE 

FaniOSO  is  the  junction  with  the  loop  line  swinging  toward  the  Sierra  foot- 
hills, which  left  the  main  line  at  Fresno. 

Bakersfield  is  the  county-seat  of  Kern  County,  situated  at  the  junction 
of  the  two  forks  of  Kern  River.  The  town  has  the  usual  complement  of  public 
and  private  buildings,  paved  streets,  electric  street  railways,  sewers,  foundries, 
planing  mills,  packing  houses,  ice  plants,  etc.,  etc.  It  is  surrounded  by  an  exceed- 
inglv  fertile  country.  Fourteen  miles  southwest  is  Kern  Lake,  seven  miles  long  by 
four  wide,  while  six  miles  farther  is  Buena  Vista  lake,  a  somewhat  larger  body 
of  water.  Irrigation  has  been  brought  to  great  perfection  in  this  county,  there 
being  seven  hundred  miles  of  irrigating  canals  within  its  limits,  the  largest  having 
a  width  of  one  hundred  feet  and  a  length  of  forty  miles.  The  lakes,  streams,  and 
artesian  wells  furnish  a  bountiful  supply  of  water.  Twenty-five  miles  southwest 
of  Bakersfield  is  the  Kern  County  oil  region,  eight  miles  long  by  three  miles  wide. 
Bakersfield  has,  as  may  be  seen  by  the  above,  a  most  productive  country  surrounding 
it.  (Population,  8,000.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  314  miles.  Elevation,  415  feet.) 

McKittrick.  A  branch  line  runs  from  Bakersfield  west  to  Olig,  a  shipping 
station  beyond  McKittrick;  from  Oil  Junction  a  short  line  runs  east  to  Oil  City, 
and  a  third  diverges  from  Gosford  to  Sunset,  some  miles  south  of  McKittrick. 
These  are  oil  districts,  and  what  are  known  as  the  Kern  fields  have  contributed 
much  to  the  growth  of  Bakersfield.  McKittrick  is  about  50  miles  west,  located  in 
the  low  hills  of  the  Santa  Maria  Mountains.  It  is  a  sterile  region,  once  volcanic, 
the  ground  still  broken  and  blackened  as  if  recently  the  gas  had  broken  up  through 
the  thin  crust,  giving  vent  to  the  pressure  below.  Jumbled  piles  of  dried  asphalt 
and  hardened  oil  sand,  and  oil  seepages,  indicate  the  character  of  the  deposits 
beneath  the  surface.  Since  the  wells  were  sunk  here,  the  yield  has  been  continuous 
and  abundant.     The  first  drill  was  sent  down  in  1899. 

Keril  River  Oil  Region.  An  old  prospector  who  had  seen  the  oil  excite- 
ment in  Pennsylvania,  digging  a  well  on  the  banks  of  Kern  River,  struck  oil  instead 
of  water,  at  a  depth  of  sixty  feet.  Now  the  region  is  a  forest  of  derricks  for  miles, 
and  while  the  wells  have  had  to  be  driven  from  500  to  1,000  feet,  the  yield  of  this 
Kern  River  district  has  been  steady  and  with  promise  of  permanence.  An  industry 
in  itself,  this  fosters  so  many  others  as  to  be  of  incalculable  value.  Here  are  the 
raw  materials;  here  is  a  great  market  opening;  here  is  a  climate  that  permits  every 
branch  of  manufacture  to  be  carried  on  all  the  year  without  the  expense  of  heating 
operating  rooms.  The  one  thing  lacking  was  cheap  fuel,  and  now  this  is  at  hand. 
It  means  new  life  to  the  State.  Factories  are  decreasing  their  expenses  by  its  use; 
steamships  and  railroads  are  using  it,  and  mine  owners  find  it  possible  to  work 
low-grade  ore  where  oil  can  be  used  in  place  of  wood  for  furnaces.  The  settlement 
of  great  tracts  of  rich  land,  and  the  building  up  of  towns  and  cities,  will  be  hastened 
by  the  discovery  of  oil.  Naturally,  Bakersfield  is  the  metropolis  cf  the  oil  industry 
at  the  head  of  the  great  valley.  Oil  trains  are  constantly  moving,  earning  great 
cylindrical  tanks  to  the  cities  northward,  and  the  growth  of  Bakersfield  has  been 
greatly  accelerated.  The  rich  farming  and  fruit  country  tributary,  will  maintain 
and  increase  what  she  has  gained  from  having  "struck  oil." 

Caliente.  This  station  is  at  the  entrance  to  the  famous  Tehachapi  Pass 
and  is  located  in  the  embrasure  of  a  deep  and  narrow  canon,  up  which  the  train 
takes  its  difficult  way.  This  is  a  shipping  point  for  freight  from  interior  points 
delivered  to  the  road  by  wagons.  It  is  also  quite  a  stage  station,  stages  leaving 
Caliente  for  Basin,  Havilah,  Hot  Springs,  Weldon,  and  Kernville.  (Population,  50. 
Distance  from  San  Francisco,  336  miles.     Elevation,  1,290  feet.) 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


1S9 


The  Famous  Loop, 

Tehachapi   Pass. 

Distance  from  San 
Francisco,  362  miles. 

Length  of  Loop, 
3,795  feet. 

Altitude  of  Tunnel, 
2,956  feet. 

Altitude  of  Crossing, 
3,034  feel. 

Altitude  Gained, 
78  feet. 


cerning  this  famous  pass,  Mr 
"  As  the  Sierra   Nevada   and 
peak  of  Shasta  (410  24'),  so  in 


The  twenty-four  miles  of  journey  up  and  down 
the  Sierra  Nevadas,  at  the  point  where  the  railroad 
makes  the  passage  of  this  range  dividing  the  broad 
valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  and  the  desert  of  Mojave, 
is  a  most  remarkable  experience,  and  brings  ln-fore 
our  eyes  the  wonderful  triumph  of  railway  engineer- 
ing skill.  It  is  alleged  that  three  civil  engineers  of 
great  reputation  first  undertook  to  survey  a  passage 
through  these  peaks  and  crags,  and,  after  repeated 
attempts,  declared  the  route  impassable.  A  boy 
of  twenty  took  up  the  work  where  his  elders  had 
forsaken  it,  and  this  miraculous  railway  path  over 
and  through  the  mountains  is  the  result.  Con- 
.  E.  McD.  Johnstone  writes  graphically  as  follows: 
Coast  Ranges  in  the  north  culminate  in  the  great 
the  neighborhood  of  Tehachapi  Pass  (35°),  these  two 


TEHACHAPI  LOOP. 


Treat  chains  blend  their  distinguishing  features  of  fern  slope  and  icy  crag,  and 
are  lost  in  an  inextricable  mass  of  jumbled  up  peaks  of  every  c  onceivable  form  and 
variety.  Although  nature  has  reared  no  such  colossal  masterpiece  as  Shasta  in  the 
welding  of  her  great  rock  bands  in  the  South,  she  has  managed  to  throw  up  her 
earth-works  in  a  manner  so  impregnable  as  to  seemingly  defy  tin-  art  of  man  to 
penetrate.  The  physical  features  of  this  Tehachapi  country  (the  lowest  pass 
being  4,000  feet  altitude)  seemed  to,  and  did  for  a  time,  baffle  the  shrewdest  en- 
gineers, but  finally  the  track,  by  doubling  back  upon,  and  crossing  itself,  by 
climbing,  squirming,  and  curving,  resulted  in  a  success  and  gave  us  one  of  the 
most  famous  and  dextrous  pice  es  of  railroad  engineering  in  the  world. " 

TelUK'hai>i    Summit.      The  station   at   the   summit   of    the  pass  is  at  an 
elevation  of  3,964  feet,  and  is  the  highest  point  on  this  extension  of  the  line.     Sheep 


'•9°  OVER    THE  RANGE 

feed  on  the  grass,  which  is  abundant  in  the  valleys  and  gulches  which  surround 
the  station. 

Descending'  to  the  l>e.sert.  For  several  miles  the  train  rolls  along 
on  a  level  plateau  on  the  summit  of  this  range  before  the  descent  to  the  Mojave 
Desert  is  made.  A  small  salt  lake  is  passed,  where  abundance  of  the  chloride 
of  sodium,  that  important  article  of  commerce,  can  be  shoveled  up  from  the  bed  of 
the  lake,  it  being  entirely  exposed  during  the  summer  by  the  evaporation  of  its 
waters. 

Cameron  is  a  small  station  passed  about  midway  between  the  summit  and 
Mojave,  at  the  base  of  the  range. 

Mojave  is  on  the  edge  of  the  desert  of  the  same  name,  and  the  water  used 
is  brought  in  pipes  from  Cameron,  a  distance  of  ten  miles.  This  place  is  the 
junction  of  the  Santa  Fc  railroad  with  the  Southern  Pacific.  (Population,  400. 
Distance  from  San  Francisco,  382  miles.     Elevation,  2,751  feet.) 

The  Mojave  Desert.  A  desert  isn't,  as  a  general  rule,  much  of  an 
object  of  interest  to  travelers,  especially  to  those  who  have  made  the  transcontinental 
journey  and  experienced  the  monotony  of  the  deserts  of  Utah  and  Nevada.  How- 
ever, we  must  say  this,  that  we  found  many  things  to  interest  us  while  traversing  the 
famed  sand  wastes  of  Mojave.  In  the  first  place,  there  were  the  giant  cacti  or 
yucca  palm,  a  sight  novel  to  our  eyes,  and  peculiar  in  and  of  itself.  This  cactus 
grows  to  the  size  of  a  tree,  reaching  an  average  height  of  twenty-five  feet,  and 
attaining  very  often  that  of  fifty  feet.  Its  diameter  is  often  that  of  two  feet,  and 
sometimes  even  greater;  with  its  spreading  club-like  branches,  its  trailing  bark  and 
peculiar  form,  the  yucca  palm  is  indeed  an  interesting  feature  in  the  landscape. 
Another  attraction  is  the  peculiar  form  of  the  buttes,  which  rise  from  the  desert 
sands  on  every  side.  Varying  in  height  from  two  to  five  hundred  feet,  grooved 
and  channeled  by  the  elements,  they  give  variety  and  interest  to  the  landscape. 
One  must  not  neglect  to  mention  the  mirage  as  a  third  element  of  variety.  We  do 
not  remember  ever  to  have  seen  more  complete  or  deceptive  mirage  effects  than 
those  of  the  Mojave  Desert. 

Rosamond,  Lancaster,  Acton  are  desert  stations  of  small  interest.  The  Solidad 
Mountains  tower  to  our  right  as  Rosamond  is  passed,  and  we  later  on  make  our 
way  through  this  range  by  means  of  what  is  known  as  the  Solidad  Pass,  reaching 
an  altitude  of  3,211  feet. 

Newhall.  This  station  is  not  very  large  but  boasts  a  large  hotel,  capable 
of  entertaining  one  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  From  here  may  be  plainly  seen  the 
San  Fernando  Mountains,  exceedingly  perpendicular,  and  rising  to  an  altitude  of 
three  thousand  feet.  These  mountains  could  not  be  passed  until  a  tunnel 
6,967  feet  long  had  been  made. 

In  this  vicinity  are  oil  refineries  producing  about  five  thousand  barrels  of  oil 
per  day.     The  oil  fields  are  but  a  short  distance  from  Newhall. 

San  Fernando  Tunnel.  From  Newhall  we  ascend  the  grade  through 
cuts  until  the  tunnel  is  reached.  The  grade  is  one  hundred  and  sixteen  feet  to  the 
mile,  and  as  we  approach  from  the  north  in  the  tunnel,  it  is  thirty-seven  feet  per 
mile,  the  grade  on  the  south  from  the  exit  is  one  hundred  and  six  feet,  while  the 
elevation  of  the  tunnel  is  one  thousand  four  hundred  and  sixty-nine  feet. 

San  Fernando.  The  valley  of  San  Fernando  bursts  on  our  vision  as  we 
emerge  from  the  tunnel,  a  land  of  orange  groves  and  olive  trees,  the  very  opposite 
in  character  from  the  arid  waste  we  have  just  left  behind  us.  The  town  of  San 
Fernando  is  quite  a  place,  and  growing  daily  in  population. 


LOS  ANGELES. 

The  Metropolis 

of 

Southern  California. 

A  City  of  Tropical 
Magnificence. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  19 1 

Through  cultivated  fields,  past  suburban  residences  we  roll  pausing  for  a 
moment  at  Burbank,  only  eleven  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  Beyond  this  place  we 
journey  through  villages  dc  facto,  de  jure  or  in  futuro.  There  are  plenty  of  lot 
stakes  and  the  suburbs  of  Los  Angeles  will  certainly  be  widespread,  if  they  ever 
cover  the  ground  now  laid  out. 

The  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  has  been  passed. 
the  heights  of  Tehachapi  have  been  scaled,  the  desert 
of  Mojave  has  been  crossed,  and  we  are  here  at  last! 
From  our  cheery  heights,  as  we  approach  the  town  we 
gaze  on  a  scene  of  entrancing  beauty.  Mountain- 
girdled,  garden-dotted  city,  lying  on  the  slope  of  the 
San  Gabriel  Mountains,  and  watered  by  streams 
from  the  heights  above,  one  hardly  knows  whether  to 
call  it  a  city  of  gardens  and  groves,  or  an  immense 
grove  and  garden  sprinkled  with  palaces  and  de- 
lightful homes.  Health  and  prosperity  seem  to  have  made  themselves  the  presiding 
deities  of  the  place.  We  gratefully  decide  that  we  have  arrived  at  a  point  where  it 
were  well  to  let  the  train,  like  the  busy  world  it  typifies,  pass  on  and  away,  while  we 
rest  in  this  paradise — a  home  indeed  fit  for  the  angels — and  while  we  bask  in  its 
sunshine,  gaze  at  its  mountain  peaks,  catch  glimpses  of  the  ocean,  breathe  the  fra- 
grance of  its  roses  and  geraniums,  or  listen  to  its  mockingbirds  and  nightingales,  we 
unite  many  a  time  and  oft  in  thanks  to  the  kindly  fate  which  led  our  steps  to  southern 
California  and  the  City  of  the  Angels.  There  is  no  city  whose  growth  can  be 
compared  to  Los  Angeles — in  fact,  no  city  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  can  boast 
of  such  rapid  improvements.  Thousands  have  come  to  southern  California  simply 
to  pay  a  visit,  but  soon  become  charmed  with  its  wonderful  climate  and  beautiful 
surroundings,  so  much  so  that  they  conclude  to  remain  permanently  in  this  land  of 
sunshine  and  flowers.  A  great  deal  has  been  written  of  this  section,  but  the  half 
has  never  been  told.  With  the  greatest  climate  in  the  universe,  the  richest  and 
most  inexhaustible  soil,  the  vast  amount  of  valuable  land  in  and  around  Los  Angeles, 
it  is  no  wonder  that  her  present  condition  is  so  prosperous.  The  beautiful  avenues 
extending  away  to  the  foothills  on  the  east  and  to  the  ocean  on  the  south,  the  orange 
groves  within  her  corporate  limits,  the  magnificent  public  and  private  buildings, 
all  tend  to  make  the  Angel  City  a  place  of  wonder.  Main  Street,  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal streets  in  town,  is  the  dividing  line  for  east  and  west;  First  Street  the  division 
for  north  and  south.  The  wholesale  houses  are  scattered  along  Los  Angeles,  Com- 
mercial, Aliso,  and  Requena  streets,  while  the  large  retail  establishments  are  to 
be  found  on  Spring  Street  and  Broadway,  which  are  to  Los  Angeles  what  State 
Street  and  Wabash  Avenue  are  to  Chicago.  The  streets  are  wide,  well  paved,  and 
bordered  by  composition  and  granite  curbing.  There  are  many  beautiful  parks 
within  the  city  limits,  and  the  ocean  can  be  reached  in  less  than  an  hour's  ride,  and 
by  a  dozen  different  steam  and  trolley  lines. 

It  may  be  stated  that  the  much-abused  word  "climate"  has  doubtless  been  a 
powerful  factor  in  producing  grand  results.  Furthermore,  the  fact  that  hundreds 
of  those  who  were  deemed  hopeless  invalids  on  their  arrival  here  are  to-day  enter- 
prising, energetic,  and  successful  capitalists,  merchants,  manufacturers,  farmers,  and 
orchardists,  attesting  the  effects  of  this  sun-kissed  land  and  health-renewing  climate 
on  the  human  system;  and  so  long  as  there  are  any  sufferers  from  the  blizzards, 
cyclones,  and  other  life-destroying  elements  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  just  so 
long  will  southern  California,  and  Los  Angeles  in  particular,  continue  to  receive 


192  OVER    THE  RANGE 

thousands  annually  of  the  best  citizens  of  the  republic,  until  it  becomes  the  most 
densely  populated  portion  of  the  United  States. 

Los  Angeles  is  reached  by  the  Southern  Pacific  railroad,  via  either  its  line 
through  the  San  Joaquin  Valley  or  via  the  beautiful  Coast  Line,  in  sixteen  hours 
from  San  Francisco — distance,  482  miles — or  by  steamer.  It  is  a  most  beautiful 
city,  of  135,000  people,  is  growing  rapidly,  and  is  a  commercial  point  of  much 
importance,  as  well  as  the  center  of  an  agricultural  paradise,  it  being  the  principal 
city  between  San  Francisco  and  Kansas  City  on  the  transcontinental  line  formed 
by  the  connection  at  Mojave  or  El  Faso.  It  is  also  the  largest  city  between 
San  Francisco  and  San  Antonio,  Texas,  by  the  great  "Sunset  Route."  The  city 
has  many  elegant  buildings,  wide,  clean  streets,  with  electric  railways.  A  day's  ride 
over  the  lovely  country  surrounding  Los  Angeles,  through  miles  of  long,  straight 
avenues  of  orange  trees  and  thousands  of  acres  of  grapes,  seeing  every  kind  of  semi- 
tropic  fruit  growing  side  by  side  with  the  more  hardy  fruits,  both  being  in  the 
greatest  profusion  and  of  the  finest  quality,  will  convince  the  traveler  from  almost 
any  part  of  the  earth  that  there  is  surely  the  paradise  of  America,  if  not  of  the  world. 

No  city  in  the  United  States  has  improved  so  rapidly  within  the  past  few  years 
as  Los  Angeles.  Nearly  every  one  of  the  principal  business  streets  have  been 
paved  with  asphalt,  and  the  main  residence  thoroughfares  with  asphalt  or  con- 
crete, thus  making  a  drive  equal  to  any  avenue  in  the  union.  There  are  no  im- 
provements which  have  been  of  more  benefit  to  Los  Angeles  than  that  of  pave- 
ment. The  immense  amount  of  daily  traffic  necessitated  this  movement,  and  there 
is  scarcely  a  block  within  the  corporate  limits  which  is  not  in  proper  condition. 
Curbing  has  also  received  its  share  of  attention,  while  the  cement  sidewalk  is  be- 
coming universal.  The  city  has  an  almost  perfect  sewerage  system,  which  requires 
an  outlay  of  nearly  $750,000. 

Los  Angeles  is  essentially  a  city  of  schools.  The  public,  high,  and  normal  schools 
are  supported  by  state  taxation,  and  their  doors  are  open  to  all.  Besides,  there  are 
numerous  universities,  colleges,  and  academies.  The  majority  of  children,  after 
obtaining  an  education  in  the  public  schools,  by  force  of  circumstances  are  com- 
pelled to  take  up  the  battle  of  life  for  themselves;  but  to  those  who  thirst  for  deeper 
draughts  at  the  fountains  of  knowledge,  the  higher  schools  await  them. 


LOS  ANGELES. 


SHORT  TOURS  ADJACENT  TO  LOS 
ANGELES. 

TO    SAN  PEDRO   AND   CATALINA. 


Florence.  This  pretty  town,  embowered  in  an  abundance  of  shrubs  avid 
fruit  trees,  is  surrounded  by  well-cultivated  and  fertile  fields.  Here  the  line  branches, 
the  San  Diego  division  extending  to  the  left.  (Population.  800.  Distance  from  Los 
Angeles,  six  miles.     Elevation,  151  feet.) 

CoiliptOll.  This  is  the  largest  town  on  the  division  between  Los  Angeles 
and  San  Pedro.  It  is  in  the  heart  of  an  extremely  well  cultivated  and  productive 
fruit  belt.  Grapes,  citrus  fruits,  and  berries  grow  in  great  abundance.  The  yield 
is  extraordinary,  and  is  especially  true  as  to  small  fruits,  such  as  blackberries,  straw- 
berries, raspberries,  etc.  (Population,  Soo.  Distance  from  Los  Angeles,  eleven 
miles.     Elevation,  76  feet.) 

Ten  miles  beyond  Compton  evidences  of  our  near  approach  to  the  grand  old 
ocean  begin  to  appear.  Salt  marshes  begin  to  make  their  appearance,  and  the  fer- 
tile soil  gives  place  to  stretches  of  shifting  sands. 

Wilson's  College.  This  is  a  Protestant  institution  of  learning,  eighteen 
miles  distant  from  Los  Angeles,  situated  on  the  site  of  the  old  Headquarters  of 
the  United  States  Military  Department  for  southern  California  and  Arizona,  which 
was  abandoned  about  twenty  years  ago  and  sold  to  private  parties.  About  a  mile 
beyond  the  college  the  junction  for  Long  Beach  is  passed,  and  San  Pedro,  the  rail- 
road terminus,  is  soon  reached. 

San  Pedro.  This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  harbors  between  San 
Francisco  and  San  Diego.  It  has  over  a  mile  of  docks,  with  between  eighteen  and 
twenty  feet  of  water  at  low  tide.  Ships  receive  and  unload  freight  to  and  from  the 
railroad  cars  direct,  though  from  some  ships,  of  great  tonnage,  the  freight  is  taken 
by  means  of  lighters.  The  government  has  improved  the  harbor  to  a  great  extent 
and  the  results  have  been  fully  commensurate  with  the  expense  incurred.  Further 
extensive  improvement,  in  the  construction  of  a  deep-water  harbor,  is  now  under 
way,  and  in  a  few  years  the  harbor  of  San  Pedro  will  be  one  of  the  best  on  the  Pacific 
coast.  The  commerce  of  San  Pedro  is  quite  extensive.  Sometimes  as  many  as 
fifty  ships  can  be  seen  riding  at  anchor  or  tied  up  to  the  wharf,  busily  engaged  in 
loading  or  unloading  freight.  Great  quantities  of  lumber  are  shipped  to  San  Pedro 
from  the  great  timber  forests  of  the  Puget  Sound  country,  and  all  nations  are  repre- 
sented during  the  year  by  ships  in  this  harbor  hailing  from  every  part  of  the  world. 
Coal  comes  here  from  the  upper  coast  and  from  England,  and  in  the  case  of  English 
vessels  a  cargo  of  grain  is  taken  back.  The  history  of  San  Pedro  dates  back  to  the 
earliest  settlement  of  California,  but  as  a  port  of  any  importance  its  growth  began 
less  than  ten  years  ago.  Before  that  time  it  was  merely  an  open  roadstead, 
and  lighters  carried  all  freight  to  and  from  Willmington. 

Santa  Catalina.    From  San  Pedro  steamers  plow  the  Pacific  (in  the  summer 

194 


I96  OVER   THE  RANGE 

daily  or  twice  a  day)  on  a  twenty-three-nv1 2  trip  to  Santa  Catalina  Island,  the  great 
island  resort  of  the  Pacific  coast,  and  but  Liree  and  a  half  hours  from  Los  Angeles. 

The  fame  of  the  island  runs  now  where  man  can  read.  Avalon  Bay  and  the 
Isthmus  are  ideal  resorts.  The  twenty-two  miles  of  island,  mountain,  cliff,  valley, 
forest,  peninsula,  possess  a  magnificent  scenic  stage  road,  wonderful  views,  fine  goat 
and  quail  hunting,  winding  trails,  deep  gorges,  and  water-falls,  among  the  attrac- 
tions of  the  interior;  yet  perhaps  the  larger  number  of  visitors  find  most  enjoyment 
in  or  upon  the  water.  It  is  a  summer  isle,  with  the  surf  beating  on  the  rocky  cliffs 
of  the  south  and  west  coasts,  and  with  the  ocean  sleeping  in  glassy  stillness  along 
the  sandy  and  pebbly  beaches  to  the  north  and  east. 

In  the  bay  of  Avalon,  children  paddle  about  unattended  in  boats  that  they  can- 
not upset.  Indeed,  everybody  goes  rowing  and  bathing  here.  There  is  no  surf 
and  no  wind,  and  so  clear  is  the  water  that  all  the  wonderful  vegetable  and  animal 
life  on  the  bottom  of  the  ocean  may  be  seen  through  the  bottom  of  a  glass-bottomed 
boat,  as  if  the  water  were  of  crystal.  Seals  (sea-lions),  unmolested,  clamber  on  the 
rocks.  It  is  a  wonderful  fishing-ground,  and  on  a  summer  morning  a  fleet  of  row- 
boats  and  naphtha  launches  may  be  seen  outward-bound  in  search  of  the  giant  sea 
bass  (reaching  a  weight  of  500  pounds),  the  leaping  tuna  (gamiest  of  all  fish),  the 
frolicsome  and  plentiful  yellowtail,  the  albicore,  the  barracuda,  that  philosopher's 
fish,  the  grouper,  the  white  and  rock  bass,  the  halibut,  and  other  denizens  of  the 
salty  deep.     An  expert  with  the  rifle  hunts  the  flying-fish. 

In  the  height  of  the  summer  season,  there  are  often  5,000  or  6,000  people  on 
Catalina  Island.  There  are  a  number  of  good  hotels,  but  the  tent  villages,  with  their 
macadamized  streets,  and  with  rows  of  shade  trees,  arc  very  attractive,  and  here  the 
crowd  lives.  The  furnished  tents  are  rented  very  cheaply,  and,  at  the  delicacy 
stores,  dinners  hot  from  the  range,  may  be  purchased  less  expensively  than  an  in- 
dulgence in  home  cooking.  Illuminations,  nightly  concerts  in  a  fine  pavilion,  fol- 
lowed by  dancing,  a  skating  rink,  and  the  unconventional  social  life  that  a  respecta- 
ble company  makes  possible,  make  life  very  pleasant  upon  the  Island. 

Long"  Beach.  We  have  already  described  the  greater  portion  of  the  trip 
from  Los  Angeles  to  Long  Beach  in  that  portion  of  this  book  devoted  to  the  journey 
from  Los  Angeles  to  San  Pedro.  We  follow  the  same  line  in  our  excursion  to  the 
Beach  as  far  as  the  junction,  at  which  point  our  train  takes  the  line  to  the  left,  and 
rolling  along  through  a  level  country,  encroached  upon  here  and  there  by  the  salt 
marshes  of  the  ocean,  but  passing  many  fertile  and  attractive  spots,  soon  reaches 
Long  Beach,  the  goal  of  our  journey  This  popular  resort  is  only  twenty-five  miles 
distant  from  Los  Angeles,  and  can  be  reached  in  an  hour's  ride  from  the  city.  Elec- 
tric railways  are  in  operation,  and  the  service  is  frequent  and  rapid.  Surf-bathing 
may  be  enjoyed  here  the  year  round,  and  the  accommodations  are  complete  in  every 
respect.  The  beach  itself  is  one  of  the  greatest  attractions  of  the  place.  The  sands 
are  left  hard  and  compact  by  the  retiring  tide,  and  the  drive  along  the  margin  of 
the  ocean  is  undoubtedly  the  finest  to  be  found  anywhere  on  the  California  coast, 
long  Beach  has  a  wharf  which  extends  a  distance  of  750  feet  in  the  ocean,  reaching 
water  deep  enough  to  float  vessels  of  the  heaviest  tonnage  by  its  side.  Long  Beach 
has  already  become  a  resort  of  great  popularity,  and  the  excellence  of  its  beacn, 
its  attractive  scenery,  and  fine  hotel  combine  to  render  this  popularity  greater  every 
day. 

The  trip  from  Los  Angeles  to  Santa  Monica,  one  of  the  famous  bathing 
resorts  of  the  Pacific  coast,  is  not  only  justified  by  what  one  finds  at  the  end  of  his 
journey,  but  also  oy  the  pleasures  enjoyed  en  route.     The  Southern  Pacific  Com- 


SANTA   MONICA. 

The 

Long  Branch 

of  the 

Pacific. 

A  Charming  Sea=Shore 

Watering  Place. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  1 97 

pany  runs  four  trains  to  the  beac  h  each  day — a  distance  of  nineteen  miles;  and 
there  are  three  electric  lines,  with  frequent  and  rapid  service.  On  Sunday  the 
exodus  to  this  famed  seaside  resort  is  something 
extraordinary.  For  three  or  four  miles  after  leav- 
ing, we  pass  through  suburbs  of  Los  Angeles.  Hand 
some  villa  residences,  surrounded  by  beautiful  and 
most  attractive  grounds,  are  to  be  seen  on  every 
side.  At  last,  reaching  the  open  country,  we  pass 
through  a  constant  succession  of  vineyards  and  fruit 
orchards,  until  the  near  presence  of  the  ocean  is  made 
known  by  refreshing  saline  breezes  and  the  occur- 
rence of  sand  dunes  and  salt  marshes.  The  train 
stops  at  a  handsome  depot,  beyond  which  extends  a 
large,  well-kept,  and  beautiful  park.  It  is  difficult 
for  one  accustomed  to  the  varying  seasons  of  the  lands  across  the  mountains  to  com- 
prehend the  fact  that  this  beautiful  park,  with  its  luxuriance  of  sub-tropical  vegeta- 
tion, its  affluence  of  delicate  and  vari-tinted  flowers,  is  never  less  verdant,  less  bril- 
liant, or  less  attractive  than  it  is  now.  It  is  not  easy  to  grasp  the  fact  that  all  the  year 
round,  equally  as  comfortably  on  the  first  of  January  as  on  the  first  of  June,  one  can 
sport  among  the  combing  billows  that  come  rolling  in  across  the  blue,  serene  Pacific. 
The  attractions  of  Santa  Monica  are  manifold — beach-driving,  surf-bathing,  fishing, 
boating,  yachting,  are  the  seaward  delights;  while  on  the  shore  are  all  the  charms 
which  nature  has  so  opulently  spread  for  the  pleasure  of  those  who  visit  this  favored 
spot,  together  with  all  the  ingenious  devices  invented  by  man  for  amusement  and 
relaxation.  Of  course  it  goes  without  saying  that  there  is  a  magnificent  beach  hotel, 
whose  broad  verandas  face  the  sea,  and  whose  appointments  are  complete  in  all 
respects;  also,  of  course,  there  are  bath-houses  of  ample  accommodations. 

There  are  many  points  of  scenic  interest  within  easy  reach  of  Santa  Monica. 
One  of  the  most  charming  is  that  to  Santa  Monica  canon,  to  which  the  Southern 
Pacific  Company  has  extended  its  line,  and  Manville  Glen,  a  spot  made  cool  and 
inviting  by  ancient  forest  trees  and  a  rippling  brook,  all  embraced  by  rugged  moun- 
tain surroundings.  This  is  a  favorite  camping-ground,  where  pleasure  and  health 
seekers  pitch  their  tents  and  spend  months  in  the  calm  enjoyment  of  this  sylvan 
retreat.  Santa  Monica  is  a  great  health  resort,  and  experience  has  proved  its  ex- 
cellence in  this  regard.  It  possesses,  the  year  round,  one  of  the  most  enjoyable 
and  healthy  climates  in  the  world,  being  from  ten  to  fifteen  degrees  cooler  than  Los 
Angeles  and  the  interior  country  in  summer,  and  warmer  in  winter.  There  is  a 
magnificent  driving  beach  stretching  away  for  fifteen  miles,  good  sea  fishing,  an 
abundance  of  water-fowl  in  the  neighboring  lagoons,  and  game  in  the  mountains  a 
few  miles  distant.  The  climate  of  Santa  Monica  and  vicinity  is  worthy  of  somewhat 
extended  notice.  In  a  general  way  we  can  sum  up  the  climatic  conditions  of  the 
southern  California  coast  as  follows:  So  far  as  the  amount  of  rainfall  is  concerned 
throughout  southern  California,  the  rainy  season  simply  signifies  that  during  that 
period,  exclusively,  not  exceeding  18  inches  may  fall.  The  average  annual  rainfall 
at  San  Diego  is  only  10.43  inches.  Following  up  the  coast  to  San  Francisco,  it 
increases  at  the  rate  of  about  2  inches  for  every  100  miles.  Santa  Monica  receives 
about  13  inches,  Santa  Barbara  15  inches,  Monterey  17  inches,  and  San  Francisco 
21  inches.  The  Coast  Range  of  mountains,  rising  to  an  elevation  of  from  2,000  to 
4,000  feet,  robs  the  ocean  rain  freighted  clouds  of  all  their  precious  burden  before 
reaching  the  interior  plains  and  valleys.     At  Fort  Yuma,  on  the  Colorado  River  and 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  199 

Desert,  the  mean  annual  rainfall  is  only  2.54  inches;  among  the  little  valleys  extend- 
ing from  San  Diego  to  the  San  Jacinto  Mountains,  from  7  to  9  inches;  in  the  valley  of 
San  Bernardino,  and  at  Colton,  Riverside,  and  Cocamongo,  10  inches;  advancing 
toward  the  coast,  Spadra  and  El  Monte  receive  about  1  1  inches;  and  Los  Angeles- 
situated  jo  miles  from  the  ocean,  about  14  inches.  Crossing  the  San  Bernardino 
Mountains  to  the  Mojave  Plains,  the  yearly  rainfall  is  only  from  3  to  4  inches,  and 
from  thence  up  the  San  Joaquin  Valley  as  far  as  Goshen,  in  latitude  36  degrees,  it 
ranges  from  3  to  6  inches;  from  thence,  northward,  it  increases  to  15.10  at  Stockton 
and  18.23  at  Sacramento.  Taking  it  all  in  all  Santa  Monica  is  a  place  of  great 
interest.  We  have  said  nothing  about  the  town  so  far,  but  must  not  neglect  to  stale 
that  there  is  a  town,  and  a  very  pretty  one  at  that.  It  is  situated  on  the  level  mesa, 
which  stretches  back  landward  from  the  brink  of  the  natural  sea  wall,  from  whose 
foot  extends  the  level  beach  outward  to  the  ocean  rim.  The  residences  are  taste- 
ful, many  of  them  elegant,  the  business  blocks  substantial,  and  every  element  of  com- 
fort and  convenience  for  the  health  or  pleasure  seeker  can  be  found  here. 

Port  Los  Angeles.  Twenty  miles  west  of  the  city  of  Los  Angeles  is 
where  the  Southern  Pacific  Company  have  built  their  mammoth  wharf,  the  longest 
ocean  pier  in  the  world.  The  total  length  of  the  structure  is  4,620  feet.  The  coal 
bunkers  are  fitted  with  every  convenience  for  rapid  handling  of  coal  cargoes  from 
ship  to  bunker  and  then  to  car,  and  are  8.6  feet  long,  36  feet  wide,  and  36  feet  high 
with  a  capacity  for  8,000  tons  of  coal.  Depot  buildings  and  freight  sheds  arc  384 
feet  in  length,  containing  ample  waiting-room  accommodations  and  an  excellent 
restaurant.  The  fishing  from  the  wharf  is  the  best  on  the  coast.  Bait  and  tackle 
can  be  had  on  the  wharf.  The  large  steamers  of  the  P.  C.  S.  S.  Co.  stop  at  Port 
Los  Angeles  north  and  south  bound  for  passengers  and  freight,  while  deep  sea  and 
coasting  vessels  are  coming  and  going  at  all  times. 

Soldiers'  Home.  A  mile  from  Home  Junction,  on  the  Santa  Monica 
Branch,  on  a  loop  line,  and  sixteen  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  the  home  that  a 
government  that  would  nourish  the  wonted  fire  of  patriotism  maintains  for  its 
disabled  volunteer  soldiers.  Two  thousand  veterans,  heroes  of  the  faded  blue,  are 
here  at  home;  the  great  group  of  fine  buildings,  the  extensive  grounds,  with  their 
arboreal  and  floral  wealth,  the  model  farm  of  nearly  500  acres,  and  above  all  the 
veterans  themselves,  make  this  square  mile  a  place  of  intense  interest.  Street-car 
service  through  a  beautiful  country  connects  the  home  with  Santa  Monica,  and  with 
the  excellent  suburban  service  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company,  enables  the 
sightseer  to  visit  both  places  in  one  day. 

One  of  the  loveliest  towns  in  the  world  lies 
before  us  as  we  enter  Pasadena.  From  a  sheep 
range  in  1873  to  the  paradise  of  fruits  and  flowers 
and  verdure  which  greets  our  eyes  to  day  is  a  magic 
transformation.  Yet  such,  in  a  word,  is  the  history 
of  Pasadena.  The  semi-tropical  luxuriance  of  Bora! 
and  arboreal  growth  which  delights  us  here  has 
sprung  into  existence  within  the  marviiously  short 
space  of  a  decade  and  a  half,  and,  nestling  here 
among  the  orange  groves  and  fruiting  vineyards  is 
a  city  whose  beauty  of  architecture  is  a  glowing  testimonial  to  the  good  taste, 
wealth,  and  liberality  of  its  residents.  I  know  of  no  pleasanter  or  more  interesting 
drives  than  those  which  may  be  taken  along  the  broad,  tree-lined  avenues  of  Pasa- 
dena.    Within  spacious  enclosures  on  each  hand  may  be  seen  elegant   villa  rest- 


PASADENA. 

An  Orchard  City. 

Beautiful  for  Situation. 

A  Delightful 

Health  and  Pleasure 

Resort. 


TO   THE  CO  I. DEN   GATE. 


20! 


dences  or  splendid  mansions  surrounded  by  ornamental  grounds  of  the  greatest 
beauty.  Palm-trees,  magnolias,  century-plants,  6g-trees,  ancient  live-oaks,  sur- 
vivals of  the  days  when  this  was  only  grazing  ground  for  flocks  and  herds,  pepper- 
trees,  blue  gums,  and  an  infinite  variety  of  ornamental  shrubbery,  makes  these 
drives  entirely  novel,  interesting,  and  (harming.  The  city  obtains  an  abundant 
supply  of  water  from  the  Arroyo  Seco  Canon,  and  the  results  of  irrigation  confront 
one  in  the  wonderful  groves  of  citrus 
and  deciduous  trees.  Pasadena  has  a 
round  dozen  of  churches,  representing 
an  expenditure  of  nearly  half  a  million 
dollars.  It  has  business  blocks  of 
metrcDolitan  proportions,  spacious 
and  elegant  theaters,  four  banks,  a 
score  of  hotels,  large  manufacturing 
establishments,  canning  factories,  elec- 
tric-car lines,  telephone  system,  elec- 
tric lights — in  short,  all  of  the  modern 
conveniences.  As  a  place  of  residence 
we  know  of  no  more  charming  city 
than  Pasadena,  whose  ten  thousand 
inhabitants  have  every  reason  to  con- 
gratulate themselves  that  their  lines 
have  fallen  in  such  pleasant  places. 
The  wonderful  climate  of  Pasadena 
is  one  of  its  chief  attractions.  Tour- 
ists who  arrive  in  November  or  Oc- 
tober are  constantly  on  the  watch  for 
winter.  Finally  a  rain-storm  comes, 
drenching  the  earth,  and  a  few  weeks 
later  the  ground  the  length  and 
hrcadth  of  the  land  is  carpeted  with 
flowers,  form  succeeding  form,  until 
color  and  variety,  tint  and  hue,  seem 
to  have  run  riot;  by  this  token  you 
may  know  that  the  winter  has  come. 
The  tops  of  the   Sierras  are  clothed 

with  snow,  so  near  that  you  can  sec  the  snow  blown  high  in  air  by  the  mountain's 
blizzard,  so  near  that  in  two  hours'  ride  you  can  go  snow-balling  or  tobogganing, 
yet  here  at  Pasadena  the  ground  is  white  with  the  blossoms  of  the  orange,  there 
is  a  carnival  of  flowers  in  every  dooryard,  and  to  the  student  who  arranges  his 
plants  according  to  their  altitudinal  horizons  it  is  a  puzzle.  Here,  in  the  same 
latitude  as  Wilmington,  X.  C,  we  find  the  banana,  fig,  pomegranate,  guava,  alli- 
gator pear,  cocoanut,  the  fan-palm,  sago-palm,  cactus,  the  yucca,  century-plant, 
cork-tree,  the  rubber-tree,  the  olive,  orange,  lime,  lemon,  and  a  host  of  other 
tropical  forms,  yet  it  cannot  be  a  tropical  climate,  as  side  by  side  with  these  is 
seen  every  pine  known  from  Norfolk  Island  to  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea,  firs, 
spruces;  and  as  for  fruits,  we  see  the  apple,  pear,  peach,  apricot,  plum,  nectarine, 
all  the  small  fruits,  everything  found  in  the  gardens  of  New  York  State. 

The  seasons  are  difficult  to  understand.     The  summer  mean  temperature  at 
Pasadena  is  66.61  degrees;  that  of  Mentone  in  the  Riviera,  73  degrees;  of  Jackson- 


MOUNT  LOWE   RAILWAY. 


202  OVER    THE   RANGE 

ville,  Fla.,  Si  degrees;  of  New  York,  about  73  degrees.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  Pasa- 
dena cannot  have  remarkably  warm  weather.  The  summer,  with  the  exception 
of  one  or  two  days,  is  not  unpleasantly  warm,  and  it  is  always  pleasant  and  com- 
fortable in  the  shade,  while  every  night  is  sufficiently  cool  to  require  a  blanket.  Not 
a  case  of  prostration  from  heat,  not  a  squall  or  wind-storm,  seldom  a  thunder-clap  or 
sign  of  lightning,  and  hardly  a  cloud  in  the  sky;  this  is  the  record  of  the  summer  here. 
Everv  day  is  a  pleasant  one,  and  such  heat  as  is  experienced  in  New  York  City 
in  the  summer  is  never  felt. 

Three  hundred  and  forty  days  out  of  the  year  will  permit  of  continuous  out-of- 
door  life  in  the  open  sunlight,  and  at  least  half  of  the  others  may  be  enjoyed.  This 
is  the  great  secret.  The  country  is  the  land  of  the  open  air  winter  and  summer,  and 
the  conditions  of  altitude  and  nearness  to  large  cities,  allowing  of  all  the  luxuries  and 
comforts,  add  to  its  attractions. 

Pasadena  is  connected  with  Los  Angeles  by  three  steam  and  two  electric  lines, 
and  communication  between  the  two  towns  is  excellent,  cars  and  trains  running  very 
frequently. 

Mount  Lowe.  From  Pasadena  extends  an  electric  railway  to  Altadena, 
where  a  marvelous  cable  road  lifts  the  traveler  up  to  Echo  Mountain,  site  of  the 
Mount  Lowe  observatory,,  which  has  gained  fame  in  the  astronomical  world  through 
the  discoveries  of  Dr.  Lewis  Swift  and  other  star-gazing  scientists.  From  Echo 
Mountain  to  Mount  Lowe  extends  an  electric  railway,  which  is  one  of  the  marvels 
of  engineering.  At  Mount  Lowe  is  Alpine  Tavern  (altitude  about  5,000  feet),  an 
attractive  resort  visited  yearly  by  thousands  of  tourists. 

Silll  Gabriel.  This  is  the  site  of  the  famous  Mission  of  San  Gabriel,  or, 
to  give  it  the  full  honors  of  its  stately  Spanish  title,  "El  Mission  de  San  Gabriel 
Arcangel."  The  mission  was  founded  September  8,  1771,  and  was  moved  from  the 
original  site  to  its  present  position  in  1775.  The  mission  church  is  a  most  interesting 
relic  of  what  in  the  new  world  may  be  called  antiquity,  having  been  erected  in  1804 
of  material  imported  from  the  mother  country,  Spain.  An  electric  line  running  from 
the  heart  of  the  city  lands  the  tourist  at  the  mission. 

Beyond  San  Gabriel  are  the  suburban  towns  of  Alhambra,  Shorb,  and  Aurant. 


LOS   ANGELES   TO   SANTA   ANA,  WHIT- 
TIER,  TUSTIN,  AND  LOS  ALAMITOS. 


OUTH  of  Los  Angeles  in  the  county  of  that  name,  and  the  neighbor- 
ing county  of  Orange,  is  a  .richly  productive  section  that  raises  pretty 
nearly  even-thing  under  the  sun,  except  tornadoes,  Hoods,  snow- 
storms, sunstrokes,  and  torrid  nights,  which  are  not  indigenous  to 
California,  and  which  no  weather  prophet  has  been  able  success- 
fully to  import. 
Downey.  Leaving  the  Arcade  Depot,  the  great  city  station  of  the  South- 
ern Pacific  Company,  reached  from  all  parts  of  the  city  by  electric  lines,  the  trip 
is  southward  through  the  hog  and  hominy  land,  past  Florence  and  Vinvale  to 
Downey,  an  enterprising  town  surrounded  by  an  agricultural  section  that  would 
make  anv  farmer's  heart  glad.  Potatoes,  walnuts,  vegetables,  small  fruits,  corn, 
etc.,  are  profitable  crops,  and  the  "lay  of  the  land"  is  everywhere  indicated  by  tin- 
cackling  hen. 

From  Studebaker,  fifteen  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  a  branch  extends  to  Whittier 
through  a  country  that  is  proving  particularly  well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of 
fruits  and  walnuts. 

Whittier.  The  Quaker  colony  of  southern  California,  Whittier,  is  like  Red- 
lands,  an  example  of  marvelous  growth.  Ten  years  ago  simply  a  vast  barley-field, 
now  it  is  tree-clothed,  and  hundreds  of  homes  make  this  an  ideal  foothill  city.  The 
Whittier  college  of  the  Society  of  Friends  is  a  very  successful  institution.  "If  thee 
would  find  a  place  more  beautiful  than  this,  thee'd  search  far."  Of  interesl  is  the 
state  reformatorv  institution,  where  the  wayward  youth  are  guided  back  into  the 
proper  path.  Whittier  possesses  city  improvements  and  wealth;  every  year  it  ships 
several  hundred  carloads  of  fruits,  vegetables,  and  walnuts.  Its  cannery  is  one  of 
the  largest  in  the  State. 

Norwalk.  Returning  to  the  Santa  Ana  line  we  pass  the  thriving  village  of 
Norwalk.  Ostriches  of  all  stages  are  here,  from  those  who  have  just  been  shelled  out 
to  the  bald-headed  old  gentleman,  who,  however,  is  not  a  bit  stiff-necked.  There 
are  two  ostrich  farms  near  Norwalk. 

Buena  Park.  Buena  Park  is  decidedly  in  the  cow  country.  It  has  a  con- 
densed milk  manufactory  that  expends  $15,000  per  month,  using  thousands  of  gal- 
ions  daily.     A  beautiful  avenue  is  one  of  its  greatest  attractions. 

Anaheim.  Anaheim  is  forty-three  years  old,  but  has  the  perennial  youth  of 
every  southern  California  colony.  A  colony  of  Germans,  possessing  good  judgment, 
chose  it  in  1857  as  a  good  place  in  which  to  live — and  that  good  judgment  has  never 
been  disputed.  Few  cities  are  more  prosperous,  and  its  2,500  people  not  only  pos- 
sess, but  own  a  large  area  of  cultivated  country,  orange  groves,  1  incvards,  walnuts, 
and  small  fruits.  The  city  has  fine  avenues,  electric  lights,  street  cars,  and  other 
public  utilities.  There  are  several  points  of  historic  interest  in  the  neighborhood. 
Los  Alamitos.      Los  Alamitos  is  nine  miles  from  Anaheim,  on  a  branch  line 

203 


204  OVER    THE  RANGE 

recently  built.  A  sheep  range  a  few  years  since,  it  is  now  the  site  of  a  large  beet 
sugar  factor}-  with  a  capacity  of  700  tons  of  beets  per  day.  It  has  a  school-house,  of 
course,  a  church,  two  hotels,  and  several  stores.  It  is  the  railroad  station  for  Ana- 
heim Landing  and  Bolsa-Chico  Bay,  one  of  the  new  seaside  resorts. 

Orange.  Orange  has  fine  avenues,  an  excellent  public  library,  and  a  miniature 
park  in  a  plaza,  but  its  chief  distinction  is  its  ideal  homes  and  their  lovely  surround- 
ings. Three  miles  from  Santa  Ana,  its  sources  of  commercial  prosperity  are  those 
of  its  neighbor. 

Santa  Alia.  Santa  Ana  is  thirty-four  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  and  is  the 
metropolis,  commercial  and  political,  of  Orange  County.  It  is  a  modern  city  with  fine 
business  buildings,  paved  streets,  electric  lights,  four  banks,  and  an  opera  house  that 
would  be  a  credit  to  any  place  on  the  coast.  Its  electric  street-car  system  connects 
with  Orange,  and  is  to  be  extended  throughout  the  valley.  Prosperity  is  very  evi- 
dent in  Santa  Ana,  and  that  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  for  the  surrounding  county 
of  Orange  is  one  of  the  richest  sections  of  California,  with  a  wonderful  variety  of 
profitable  products.  That  explains  the  four  banks.  A  great  many  new  houses  are 
being  built,  several  new  business  blocks  have  just  been  completed,  and  there  is  every 
prospect  that  the  year  1904  will  be  one  of  unexampled  growth  in  both  city  and  coun- 
tv.  A  new  canning  establishment,  that  is  capable  of  turning  out  50,000  cases  of 
Orange  County  products  every  day,  is  now  in  operation.  A  line  new  court-house 
has  just  been  finished.  Santa  Ana  has  a  public  park  worth  considerable  pride,  a 
good  public  library,  fine  schools,  an  enterprising  chamber  of  commerce,  an  Ebell 
society  for  the  ladies,  and  a  Sunset  club  for  the  gentlemen.  The  northern  part  of 
the  city  is  noted  for  its  beautiful  homes.  The  county  has  been  generously  favored 
by  Mr.  Irvine  in  its  picturesque  park  in  Santiago  canon.  Near  by  is  the  fifty-acre- 
tract  of  the  Santa  Ana  Golf  Club,  also  a  gift  of  the  same  gentleman.  The  city  is  the 
junction  of  the  Santa  Ana  and  Newport  branch  with  the  main  line. 

Newport.  Newport  is  a  famous  place  for  those  who  love  the  ocean  for  its  own 
sake,  and  not  because  of  beach  brass  bands  or  merry-go-rounds.  The  man  with 
the  broad-brimmed  hat  and  the  long  fishing-pole,  with  a  family  who  like  to  be  sum- 
mering along  a  delightful  beach,  comes  here.  It  has  a  sand  peninsula  with  quiet 
water  on  one  side  and  tumbling  breakers  on  the  other,  a  delightful  bit  of  headland 
scenerv,  and  a  bay  perfect  for  bathing  and  boating.  Its  wharf  and  hotels  are  all 
attractive.  A  branch  of  the  railroad  extends  to  Smeltzer  and  the  famous  peat  lands, 
where  are  grown  the  hundreds  of  carloads  of  celery  that  find  their  way  to  the  Eastern 
market  every  year.  Very  productive  are  these  peat  lands,  and  grow  almost  any- 
thing in  abundance,  save  large  timber  that  have  "too  heavy  a  step."  Every  tourist 
should  make  a  visit  to  this  interesting  section,  where  he  can  produce  an  earthquake 
"all  by  himself."  The  trip  from  Newport  to  Smeltzer  is  one  of  much  scenic  beauty. 

Tustill.  Tustin  is  the  center  of  one  of  the  older  fruit  districts  of  the  South,  and 
has  manv  magnificent  groves.  The  town  is  the  center  of  a  community  well  known 
for  its  wealth  and  refinement.  Near  by  is  the  famous  San  Joaquin  ranch  of  a  hundred 
thousand  undivided  acres  that  extends  from  the  mountains  to  the  sea.  There  are 
good  roads  in  all  this  country,  a  peculiar  rock  formation  known  as  "Tustin  cement" 
being  responsible  for  many  of  them. 


LOS  ANGELES  TO  SAN  DIEGO. 


HE  trip  from  Los  Angeles  to  San  Diego  abounds  in  interest,  and  if 
one  obeyed  one's  inclinations,  and  made  a  stop  at  all  the  attractive 
stations  which  intervene  between  the  inland  city  and  the  city  on 
the  ocean  side,  it  would  take  an  entire  vacation  to  accomplish  the 
one  hundred  and  eighty-nine  miles  of  the  journey.  Leaving  Lcs 
Angeles  on  the  Sante  Fe  Pacific  Railway  at  a  comfortable  hour  in  the 
morning,  we  are  soon  speeding  through  the  suburbs  of  the  City  of  Angels.  It  is 
difficult  for  us  to  tell  just  when  we  have  passed  beyond  the  confines  of  the  city, 
because  the  country  is  so  fully  occupied  by  handsome  villa  iesidences  and  the 
suburban  stations  are  of  such  frequent  occurrence  that  one  is  puzzled  to  determine 
where  the  town  ends  and  the  country  begins.  Downey  Avenue,  Morgan,  Highland 
Park,  Gravanzo,  Lincoln  Park,  South  Pasadena,  Raymond,  Pasadena,  Olivewood, 
Fair  Oaks,  and  Lamanda  Park  are  all  busy  stations  disposed  within  a  distance  of 
thirteen  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  It  is  therefore  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  the 
traveler  is  confused  and  at  a  loss  to  know  just  when  he  is  "out  of  town."  Beyond 
Lamanda  Park  the  stretches  of  open  country  between  stations  begin  to  widen,  and 
one  can  look  out  of  the  window  at  least  twice  before  another  town  appears  in  view. 
Raymond,  As  this  station  is  approached  one  sees  on  the  right  an  aspiring 
hill  adorned  with  handsome  lawns,  ornamental  shrubbery,  trailing  vines,  and 
umbrageous  trees.  The  summit  of  this  hill  is  crowned  by  a  massive  and  stately 
edifice  that  at  once  attracts  attention  and  excites  curiosity.  On  inquiry  we  lecm 
that  this  is  the  Hotel  Raymond,  and  that  here  are  entertained  the  hundreds  cf 
guests  brought  hither  by  the  well-known  excursion  managers  Messrs.  Raymond 
and  Whitcomb.  This,  however,  forms  but  a  small  part  of  the  patronage  of  the 
Hotel  Raymond,  for  from  its  excellent  management,  beautiful  situation,  and  health- 
ful location  the  hotel  has  become  exceedingly  popular.  Of  course  there  is  a  town  • 
site  here,  and  what  is  not  always  the  case  in  this  country  of  town-sites,  there  is  a 
town  as  well,  with  the  prospects  of  a  city.  Passing  through  Pasadena,  described 
elsewhere,  we  come  to 

Lamanda  Park.  We  wish  to  do  the  tourist  who  reads  this  book  a  good 
turn,  having  his  comfort  and  enjoyment  at  heart,  therefore  we  advise  him  to  stop 
at  Lamanda  Park  and  make  his  headquarters  for  a  day,  or  a  week,  or  a  fortnight, 
in  this  delightful  spot.  In  the  first  place,  one  can  find  here  a  homelike  and  com- 
fortable hotel;  in  the  second  place,  this  is  an  excellent  point  from  which  to  make 
radiating  trips  through  the  charming  San  Gabriel  Valley  or  among  the  foothills  and 
up  the  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Madre  Mountains.  Within  an  hour's  drive  are  Sierra 
Madre  Villa,  the  famous  Rose  Vineyards,  Baldwin's  Ranch,  where,  besides  miles 
of  orange  avenues  are  to  be  found,  at  Santa  Anita,  the  stables  made  famous  by  the 
fast  horses  owned  by  the  "bonanza  king."  Orange  orchards,  avenues  of  English 
walnut-trees,  lemon  groves,  vineyards,  veritable  forests  of  deciduous  fruit  trees  and 
a  tropic  luxuriance  of  splendid  floral  beauties  surround  this  place,  which,  though 
modest  in  size,  is,  as  we  have  said,  a  charming  resting-spot  and  a  most  convenient 

205 


SIERRA  MADRE 
VILLA. 

An  Ideal  Pleasure 

and 

Health  Resort. 

In  the  Heart  of  Orange 

Groves,  on  the 

Slope  of  the  Sierra 

Madre  Mountains. 


2 06  OVER   THE  RANGE 

point  from  which  to  radiate  in  all  directions  and  view  either  the  grandeur  of  the 
mountains  or  the  more  quiet  but  none  the  less  attractive  beauties  of  the  valley. 

The  fame  of  the  Sierra  Madre  Villa  is  world- 
wide. On  its  shaded  verandas  congregate  daily  the 
most  cultivated  and  intelligent  people.  It  is  not 
always  the  same  company  that  gathers  here,  but 
it  is  always  a  company  which  it  gives  pleasure  for 
one  to  meet.  The  class  of  guests  is  of  the  best, 
bei  ause  the  reputation  of  the  Villa  naturally  attracts 
that  class.  This  ideal  pleasure  and  health  resort  is 
located  on  tin-  southern  slope  of  the  Sierra  Madre 
Mountains,  fourteen  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  This  elevation  gives  it  complete  im- 
munity from  the  fogs'  of  the  sea  and  valley,  and 
also  gives  a  view  of  the  most  wide-horizoned  beauty. 
Here  we  are  only  fourteen  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  far  enough  away  to  escape  the 
turmoil  of  the  city,  and  near  enough  to  enjoy  all  of  its  advantages.  Theater  trains 
are  run  three  or  four  nights  each  week,  and  o.  2  can  go  to  Los  Angeles  by  train  at 
almost  any  hour  in  the  day.  The  Sant  1  Fe  Pacific  passes  within  a  mile  and  a  half 
of  the  villa,  Lamanda  Park  being  the  station.  The  views  from  the  Villa  overlook- 
ing the  beautiful  San  Gabriel  Valley,  are  a  glorious  panorama  of  rugged  mountain 
ranges,  extensive  orange  groves — in  one  of  which  the  Villa  stands  -vinevards,  and 
the  distant  ocean  with  its  shadowy  islands.  Here  is,  indeed,  an  ideal  home  with 
good  food  skilfully  prepared,  pure  air,  and  sparkling  mountain  water.  With  all 
these  essentials  for  health,  comfort,  and  luxury,  the  tourist  cannot  fail  to  enjov  his 
sojourn  here.  The  fame  of  the  Villa  for  its  beautiful  and  healthful  location,  and 
superior  accommodations,  with  all  modern  improvements  for  over  one  hundred 
guests,  has  become  international.  There  are  fine  suites  of  sunny  rooms,  broad 
verandas,  inclosed  with  glass  to  keep  out  chilly  air  if  desired,  a  beautiful  lawn, 
flowers,  etc.,  and  the  most  genial  climate  under  the  sun.  Good  roads  and  a  beau- 
tiful drive  from  Los  Angeles  to  the  Villa. 

The  Sail  Gabriel  Valley.  The  remarkable  growth  of  the  San  Ga- 
briel Valley  of  southern  California  may  be  traced  to  a  single  imperishable  feature — 
its  climate.  Towns  and  cities  have  appeared  like  magic;  not  the  mushroom  growth 
one  expci  Is  and  finds  where  a  mining  excitement  has  been  the  magnet,  but  towns 
which  in  completeness,  architectural  beauty,  taste  and  culture  of  the  people,  will 
equal  many  in  the  East  dating  back  fifty  years  or  more.  Ten  years  ago  the  San 
Gabriel  Valley  was,  comparatively  speaking,  unoccupied.  Several  small  towns,  as 
Duarte,  San  Gabriel,  Puente,  were  the  chief  centers,  and  the  entire  land  was  cut  up 
into  large  holdings  or  ranches.  To-day  we  find  towns  by  the  dozen  larger  than 
these  pioneers,  three  lines  of  transcontinental  railway,  and  one  city,  Pasadena, 
with  a  summer  or  permanent  population  of  fifteen  thousand  persons,  and  a  winter 
one  ranging  from  twenty  thousand  to  forty  thousand.  The  San  Gabriel  Valley  is 
about  ten  miles  wide  and  thirty  miles  long.  Upon  the  north  are  the  California 
Maritime  Alps — the  Sierra  Madre  range — rising  directly  from  the  plains  in  a  series 
of  parallel  ridges,  in  peaks  from  four  thousand  to  fourteen  thousand  feet  above  the 
sea.  To  the  west,  spurs  of  the  main  range,  the  Sierra  Santa  Monica,  the  San 
Rafael  and  the  Verdugo  Mountains  form  a  protective  boundary,  while  to  the  south 
the  Puente  Hills  rise,  beyond  which,  faintly  visible,  twenty-five  miles  away,  is  the 
Pacific.     The  Valley  is  therefore  completely  environed  on  all  sides,  having  abso- 


3o8  OVER   THE  RANGE 

lute  protection  from  prevailing  winds  from  the  north,  in  this  respect  again  resem- 
bling the  Riviera  of  Europe.  The  presence  of  these  mountains  and  canons  rising 
so  abruptly  from  the  valley,  gives  to  the  locality  a  scenic  charm  difficult  to  describe, 
and  for  its  peculiar  charm  the  view  of  the  Sierra  Madre  range  at  Pasadena  is 
unequaled  in  this  country. 

Monrovia.  This  handsome  little  city  has  been  christened  by  its  admirers 
"The  Gem  of  the  Foothills,"  and,  in  fact,  there  is  quite  as  much  truth  as  poetry 
in  the  title.  It  has  a  most  attractive  site,  commanding  a  comprehensive  view  of 
the  San  Gabriel  Valley  to  the  front,  while  the  background  is  filled  in  with  the 
massive  range  of  the  Sierra  Madre  Mountains.  The  town  has  two  lines  of  street 
railway  and  an  electric  line  to  Eos  Angeles.  It  possesses  an  elegant  and  costly 
hotel,  furnished  with  all  the  modern  improvements,  handsome  school-houses,  first- 
class  business  blocks,  fine  private  residences,  and  no  saloons. 

Duarte.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  the  settlements  of  the  Valley  and  is 
surrounded  by  a  country  of  great  productiveness.  Farming  is  a  considerable 
industry,  and  great  quantities  of  corn  and  alfalfa,  in  addition  to  fruit,  are  raised. 

Azusa  is  near  the  upper  end  of  the  San  Gabriel  Valley  and  is  in  the  center 
of  the  great  ranch  from  which  it  takes  its  name.  The  stations  now  follow  in  quick 
succession  until  San  Bernardino  is  reached.  In  fact,  the  train  never  makes  more 
than  four  miles  advance  without  either  stopping  at  a  station  or  passing  through 
one.  To  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  the  frequent  occurrence  of  these  towns  we 
append  a  list,  with  the  distance  of  each  from  Los  Angeles:  Glendora,  27;  San 
Dimas,  31;  Lordsburg,  34;  North  Pomona,  35;  Clarcmont,  36;  North  Ontario,  41; 
North  Cocamonga,  45;  Etiwanda,  47;  Rialto,  57;  and  San  Bernardino,  60.  One 
of  the  most  marvelous  things  connected  with  this  journey  of  sixty  miles  from  Los 
Angeles  to  San  Bernardino,  aside  from  the  marvels  of  nature,  is  that  for  an  average 
of  every  three  miles  of  the  journey  there  is  a  station,  and  that  at  many  of  these 
stations  there  are  considerable  towns,  and  at  several  of  them  thriving  cities. 

At  San  Bernardino  we  stop  for  dinner,  and 
change  cars,  taking  the  Southern  California  Rail- 
road for  San  Diego.  The  station  is  a  large  and 
spacious  building,  admirably  fitted  for  the  pur- 
poses to  which  it  is  dedicated.  The  city  of  San 
Bernardino  lies  in  a  most  beautiful  and  fertile  valley. 
The  county  embraces  23,476  square  miles,  and  con- 
tains not  only  some  of  the  finest  farming  land,  citrus 
and  deciduous  fruits  of  countless  varieties,  but  also 
rich  mines,  and  many  mineral  springs  and  health 
resorts.  The  scenery  is  magnificent  and  varied,  the  mountains  abound  in  timber, 
and  game  is  plentiful.  The  climate  is  superb  and  invigorating.  The  city  of  San 
Bernardino  is  situated  in  the  center  of  a  valley  one  mile  square,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  10,000,  and  is  rapidly  increasing  in  size  and  wealth.  Among  other  notable 
buildings  arc  the  finest  brick  grammar  school  in  southern  California;  a  court-house 
which  cost  $40,000;  the  Stewart  Hotel,  costing  $125,000;  an  opera  house;  an  excel- 
lent hospital;  and  churches  of  all  denominations.  There  is  an  abundance  of 
artesian  water.  Three  lines  of  railroads  cross  the  county — the  Southern  Pacific, 
through  Los  Angeles  and  Colton,  to  Yuma  and  Arizona;  and  the  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, from  San  Diego,  through  San  Bernardino  to  Barstow;  and  the  Southern 
California  Railroad,  which  runs  on  a  straight  line  between  the  two  cities.  There 
is  also  the  Valley  Railroad,  from  the  city  to  Gladysta,  Lugonia,  Redlands,  and 


SAN 
BERNARDINO. 

rianufacturing  and 

Mercantile  Center. 

A  Beautiful 

Residence  City. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  209 

Mentone,  to  the  west  line  of  High  View.  A  motor  road  also  runs  continuously 
between  this  city  and  Colton,  a  distance  of  three  miles,  and  the  San  Bernardino  & 
Redlaiids  Motor  Road  to  Redlands  and  Lugonia  via  Victoria  and  Old  San  Ber- 
nardino orange  groves.  Also  the  San  Bernardino  &  Arrowhead  Narrow  Gauge 
to  Arrowhead  Hot  Springs.  Street  cars  are  running  to  all  parts  of  the  city. 
Building  material  is  abundant  and  cheap.  Among  the  varied  products  that  attain 
perfection  here  we  may  mention  oranges,  raisins,  wines,  fruits  and  flowers  of  all 
kinds,  alfalfa,  corn  and  bark)-,  while  gold,  silver,  and  borax  are  found  in  large 
quantities  in  the  near  mountain  ranges. 

A  Fertile  Valley.  The  county  of  San  Bernardino  is  the  largest  in 
California,  and  includes  within  its  limits  the  valley  of  the  same  name.  It  con- 
tains much  land  which  is  now  lying  fallow,  but  which  will  in  time  be  irrigated  and 
made  very  productive.  In  its  southwest  corner  are  several  large  valleys,  well 
irrigated,  and  of  unusual  fertility.  Within  them  are  long  stretches  of  almost  level 
plains,  from  which  the  gently  undulating  mesas  gradually  rise  until  they  reach  the 
foothills.  The  lower  level  lands  are  sufficiently  moist  to  grow  alfalfa,  corn,  and 
v?getablcs,  without  irrigation;  and  the  soil  is  mainly  a  black  sandy  loam.  The 
higher  lands  become  more  sandy,  while  the  foothills  contain  the  gravel  washings 
from  the  mountains.  These  higher  lands  grow  vines  and  deciduous  fruits  with 
the  natural  moisture;  oranges  and  lemons  alone  require  artificial  irrigation.  The 
higher  lands  are  better  for  deciduous  fruits,  the  mesas  or  table-lands  for  citrus 
fruits,  the  lower  lands  for  vegetables  and  general  farming.  There  are  some 
immense  vineyards  in  the  country,  and  a  vast  quantity  of  excellent  wine  is  made. 
After  a  barley  crop  is  harvested,  it  is  succeeded  on  the  damp  or  irrigated  lands  by 
a  crop  of  corn  Alfalfa  yields  well  and  is  cut  from  three  to  seven  times  in  the 
season.  About  two  tons  are  taken  off  each  acre  at  a  cutting.  The  heavy  black 
loam  of  the  mountain  sides  grows  exceptionally  fine  potatoes.  Vegetables  and 
edible  roots  of  all  kinds  attain  an  enormous  growth  in  the  valley.  Besides  the 
semi-tropical  fruits,  all  those  of  more  northern  latitudes  can  be  raised.  These 
valleys  surpass  any  others  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State  in  the  matter  of  an 
abundant  supply  of  water  for  irrigating  purposes.  The  Chino  Ranch  and  Ontario 
lands  are  in  this  county. 

Coltoil.  This  live  town  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  southern  California  and 
the  Southern  Pacific  railroads,  and  an  unusually  handsome  station  and  large  hotel 
are  to  be  seen  here.  The  town  is  only  four  miles  from  San  Bernardino,  and  the 
time  is  not  far  distant  when  they  will  be  one  city.  The  citizens  of  Colton  are 
enterprising  and  liberal,  and  as  a  result  the  town  is  making  rapid  and  large  im- 
provement. Canning  factories  are  established  here,  and  the  shipments  of  pre- 
pared fruit  and  fruit  in  its  natural  state  are  something  extraordinary.  The 
surrounding  country  is  of  unsurpassed  fertility,  and  a  drive  of  half  a  day  through 
the  never-ending  groves  of  orange-trees  and  in  the  midst  of  most  entrancing 
scenery  will  convince  one  that  Colton  has  every  requisite  for  becoming  a  large  and 
flourishing  city.     It  is  surely  a  most  delightful  place  of  residence. 

East  Riverside  is  the  station  for  Riverside,  reached  by  a  branch  line. 
South  Riverside,  on  the  Southern  California  Railway,  fifteen  miles 
southwest  of  Riverside,  is  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  its  situation  and  the  sym- 
metry of  its  design.  The  projectors  of  this  delightful  town  had  original  ideas  and 
the  town-site  is  exactly  circular  in  form.  Fruit  raising  is  one  of  the  leading  indus- 
tries, while  manufacturing  is  receiving  a  great  deal  of  attention,  and  has  already 
been  firmly  established  here. 


:io 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


RIVERSIDE. 

The 

Orange  Grove  City 

of 
Southern  California. 


Washington  has  been  wittily  denominated  "tht 
city  of  magnificent  distances,"  but  here  in  southern 
California  we  have  lound  a  city  equally  as  deserv- 
ing of  that  characterization.  Riverside  manages  to 
towr  twenty-five  thousand  acres,  and  this  great 
extent  of  territory  has  upon  it  between  three  and 
four  thousand  inhabitants.  But  did  ever  any  one 
behold  a  more  beautiful  sight  than  this  orchard  city,  reclining  in  the  midst  of 
orange  groves,  its  magnificent  avenues  lined  with  ornamental  trees,  among  which 
the  oriental  palm  is  most  conspicuous,  its  artistic  villa  residences  surrounded  with 
grounds  in  which  the  care  of  the  Ian  1     ape  gardener  can  be  seen,  its  fine  business 

blocks  of  brick  and  stone, 
its  handsome  hotels,  and  its 
surrounding  vineyards  mak- 
ing it  a  perfect  bower  of 
beauty. 

Resuming  our  journey 
on  the  main  line  from  East 
Riverside,  we  pass  through 
Box  Springs,  Alessandro, 
and  Perris,  which  latter 
place  is  situated  on  the  San 
Ja<  into  River,  which  emp- 
ties in  Lake  Elsinore,  some 
twelve  miles  farther  on. 
The  country  has  become 
more  rugged,  for  we  arc 
now  skirting  the  San  Jacinto 
hills.  We  pass  through 
deep  cuts  and  around  projecting  spurs,  and  finally  enter  a  very  pretty  cation, 
emerging  from  which  we  pause  at  Elsinore  on  the  margin  of 

Lake  Elsinore.  This  is  a  lovely  little  sheet  of  water,  cradled  in  the 
highlands,  with  a  bold  mountain  range  to  the  west.  The  lake  is  four  miles  long 
and  about  half  a  mile  wide,  and  forms  a  charming  feature  in  the  landscape. 

Wlldomar.  At  the  foot  of  Elsinore  Lake  is  Wildomar.  This  town  has  a 
very  picturesque  situation,  and  considerable  expense  has  been  incurred  in  planting 
trees,  grading  the  streets,  and  bringing  water  in  pipes  from  the  adjacent  moun- 
tains. It  has  schools,  churches,  good  business  houses,  and  a  population  of  about 
two  hundred. 

Murietta.  This  is  a  regular  meal  station,  and  on  that  account  is  of  inter- 
est to  the  traveler.  It  is  situated  on  the  Margurita  ranch,  which  comprises 
208,000  acres  of  land,  especially  and  solely  adapted  for  grazing.  San  Margurita 
Creek  flows  through  the  town,  and  the  railroad  follows  this  stream  for  thirty-seven 
miles,  and  then,  over  the  brow  of  a  rolling  mesa  to  our  right,  the  great  Pacific 
Ocean  bursts  on  our  view. 

Ocean  Si<l<'.  This  thriving  town  of  a  thousand  inhabitants  has  a  com- 
manding situation  on  a  mesa  two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  From 
this  point  of  view  the  coast  line  can  be  followed  in  either  direction  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach.  Here  there  is  one  of  the  finest  hotels  (the  South  Pacific)  on  the  coast, 
and  here  great  improvements  have  been  inaugurated  by  the  enterprising  citizens- 


liJL 

■ 

a 

?    '1  i 

M' 

1  'T& 

K? 

I 

NEW   GLENWOOD    HOTEL,    RIVERSIDE. 


SAN   DIEGO. 

The  Naples  of  the 

New  World. 

The  Great  Bay  City 

of  Southern  California. 


212  OVER    THE  RANGE 

The  accommodations  for  sea  bathing  arc  most  complete,  and  Ocean  Side  is  sure  to 
become  an  exceedingly  popular  pleasure  resort.  Between  Ocean  Side  and  San 
Diego,  a  distance  of  forty-seven  miles,  then-  are  just  a  "baker's  dozen"  of  sta- 
tions. At  some  of  them  one  can  sec  hotels  of  the  most  imposing  size  and  beau- 
tiful architecture,  a  house  or  two,  and  thousands  of  lot  stakes,  but  no  great  showing 
of  business  or  population.  The  stations  occur  in  the  following  order:  Carlsbad, 
Leucadia,  Encinitas,  Del  Mar,  Cardero,  Sorrento  Alpine  Selwyn,  La  Jolla,  Roses 
Siding,  Morena,  and  Old  Town. 

The  magnificent  natural  advantages  of  San 
Diego  cannot  fail  to  make  this  the  great  city  of 
southern  California.  It  lies  upon  a  slope  facing 
San  Diego  Bay.  This  slope  extends  back  perhaps 
an  average  mile,  where  it  reaches  an  altitude  of 
two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
from  which  point  the  country  extends  back  in  a 
broad,  rolling  mesa.  With  such  a  slope,  and  with 
such  an  ascending  altitude,  opportunities  are 
offered  for  the  most  wide-sweeping  and  magnificent 
views.  At  the  foot  of  the  city  lies  the  land-locked  bay,  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
in  the  world,  glistening  like  a  sheet  of  silver  in  the  genial  rays  of  an  unclouded  sun. 
Between  the  bay  and  the  ocean  is  the  Coronado  peninsula,  on  the  expander!  part  of 
which  is  the  town  of  Coronado,  with  the  largest  hotel  in  the  world.  Beyond 
Coronado  is  the  Pacific  Ocean,  whose  long,  rolling  swells  break  upon  a  level  and 
far-extending  beach,  their  combining  crests  breaking  into  snow-white  foam  as  they 
fall  with  majestic  regularity  upon  the  shining  sands.  The  distant  background  is 
formed  by  the  mountains,  with  the  Jamul,  old  San  Miguel,  and  El  Cajon  standing 
well  forward,  the  advance  guard  of  an  army  of  giants.  To  the  right  is  the  receding 
mesa;  to  the  left  the  table-lands  and  mountains  of  Old  Mexico.  The  landscape  in 
garb  of  varying  green,  the  bay  and  ocean  with  their  ever-changing  shades  from 
shining  silver  to  deep,  dark  blue,  form  a  picture  of  such  entrancing  beauty  that 
neither  pen  nor  pencil  can  adequately  depict.  With  such  natural  attractions,  to 
which  should  be  added  the  attractions  of  climate,  it  is  not  a  matter  of  wonder  that 
the  population  of  San  Diego  has  increased  rapidly  since  overland  transportation 
facilities  have  been  provided.  The  city's  population  in  November,  1885,  was  but 
the  population  of  a  healthy  village,  say  about  four  thousand;  a  year  later  saw  it 
advance  to  a  city  of  between  ten  and  twelve  thousand;  and  by  November,  1887, 
the  population  had  doubled  again,  and  reached  a  total  of  twenty-five  thousand 
souls.  The  increase  since  has  been  steady,  and  the  common  but  conservative 
estimate  of  the  population  to-day  is  thirty  thousand.  The  character  of  the  popu- 
lation is  truly  American.  Because  to  the  Eastern  mind  San  Diego  is  "away  in  the 
West,"  the  impression  prevails  with  some  that  its  population  is  of  that  Western 
character  to  be  found  in  romance  of  the  light  order.  A  greater  mistake  could  not_ 
be  imagined.  San  Diego  is  as  typical  an  American  city  as  any  to  be  found  in  the 
land  of  Americans.  If  the  influence  of  any  one  city  may  be  said  to  prevail  here, 
it  is  the  influence  of  the  city  of  Boston;  and  there  is  reason  for  it.  The  Santa  Fe 
Railroad,  whose  western  terminus  is  at  this  harbor,  is  an  institution  maintained  by 
Boston  men  and  Boston  capital.  This  has  naturally  created  in  Boston  a  financial, 
and  finally  a  social,  interest  in  San  Diego,  which  has  resulted  in  the  transplanting 
of  many  Boston  men  and  women  from  the  metropolis  of  New  England  to  the  new 
city  by  the  sunset  sea.     They  have  found  here  a  genial,  social  climate.     In  a  city 


214 


OVER    THE   RANGE 


covering  as  much  ground  as  does  San  Diego,  the  mutter  of  transportation  is  of  first 
importance.  This  has  been  looked  after  by  the  enterprising  citizens.  Electric 
railway  systems  supply  the  needs  of  the  inhabitants. 


CLUSTER   OF   ORANGES. 


SAN  DIEQO  BAY. 

A  Thing  of  Beauty 

and  a 

Great  Commercial 

Factor. 


The  bay  of  San  Diego  is  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  the  world;  it  is  also  a  great  factor  in  the 
success  of  the  city.  There  are  larger  harbors  than 
this,  but  for  the  uses  to  which  harbors  are  devoted, 
there  are  none  better  anywhere  than  that  of  San 
Diego,  and  it  is  large  enough  to  afford  a  safe  refuge 
for  the  entire  merchant  fleet  of  the  United  States. 
The  bay  is  thirteen  miles  long,  and  the  total  area 
of  water  is  twenty-two  square  miles.  Commodore 
C.  P.  Patterson,  Superintendent  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  wrote 
in  1878: 

"I  have  crossed  this  bar  at  all  hours,  both  day  and  night,  with  steamers  of 
from  1,000  to  3,000  tons  burden,  during  all  seasons  of  the  year,  for  several  years, 
without  detention.  It  is  the  only  land-locked  harbor  south  of  San  Francisco  and 
north  of  San  Quintin,  Lower  California,  and  from  a  national  point  of  view  its 


2l6 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


importance  is  so  great  that  its  preservation  demands  national  protection,  and  justi- 
fies National  expenditure." 

The  history  of  this  wonderful  city  reads  like  a  romance.  Previous  to  No,,om- 
ber,  1S85,  San  Diego  existed  chiefly  as  a  town-site,  and,  measured  by  the  corpora- 
tion limits,  it  contained  an  amplitude  of  area.  It  was  in  183,3  that  the  Pueblo  of 
San  Diego  was  organized;  but  it  was  not  until  eleven  years  later,  in  the  latter  part 
of  the  year  1844,  that  the  people  followed  the  usual  customs  of  those  times,  and 
petitioned  the  Government  of  Mexico  (this  whole  country  was  then  under  Mexican 
rule)  for  a  tract  of  land.  A  few  acres  more  or  less  was  of  no  particular  account  to 
the  Mexican  Government  at  that  time,  and  a  grant  of  seventy-five  square  miles  was 


CjAIN     DtKlNAKJ 


made,  "to  be  used,  controlled,  and  disposed  of  by  the  legally  authorized  representa- 
tives of  the  city."  These  seventy-five  square  miles,  or,  to  be  exact  and  use  the 
figures  of  the  surveyor  who  traced  the  lines  subsequently  for  the  Government,  and 
who  reported  that  the  entire  Pueblo  consisted  of  48,556.69  acres,  do  now,  minus 
1,233.8  acres  reserved  by  the  Government  for  military  purposes,  constitute  the  area 
of  the  corporation  of  San  Diego,  The  question  of  title  never  arises  here.  That 
original  grant  has  been  confirmed  and  upon  it  rests  all  instruments  of  sale. 

The  shores  of  the  bay  are  dotted  with  suburban  towns,  which  share  the  benefits 
of  San  Diego  harbor.  They  are  separated  from  the  City  of  San  Diego  by  distinct 
bounds,  but  it  is  only  a  matter  of  time  when  they  will  become  integral  parts  of  the 
parent  city.     These  towns  are  known  as  National  City,  Roseville,  and  Coronado. 

^National  City  is  located  four  miles  down  the  bay,  reckoning  the  distance 
from  the  center  of  the  business  community  of  each  city.  The  two  cities  are,  how- 
ever, already  practically  merged  into  one,  as  they  are  one  in  interest  and  in  sentiment. 
National  City  has  a  population  of  3,000.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the  Santa  Fe  system  on 
the  Pacific  coast,  and  of  the  National  City  &  Otay  Railway  Company.  A  capacious 
wharf  furnishes  facilities  for  deep-sea  vessels  to  unload,  and  here,  too,  ship  and  rail 
are  brought  together.  An  olive-oil  mill  having  been  established,  National  City  is 
the  olive  market  for  Los  Angeles,  San  Bernardino,  and  San  Diego  counties.  It  is 
furnished  with  water  from  the  recently  completed  Sweetwater  reservoir,  which  has 
a  capacity  of  six  billion  gallons,  and  insures  a  supply  sufficient  for  a  city  of  twenty- 
five  thousand  inhabitants. 


VIEW   IN   SAN   ANTONIO   CANON,   ONTARIO.  CAL. 


2i8    *  OVER   THE  RANGE 

Goronado.      On  Coronado  Beach,  just  across  the  bay  from  San  Diego,  is  a 

city  which  has  already  become  famous  throughout  the  country.  In  two  years'  time 
this  wild  waste  of  land  has  been  transformed  into  a  city  with  a  population  of  two 
thousand.  It  has  one  hotel  which  cost  one  million  dollars,  and  others  which  cost 
large  sums;  it  has  elegant  and  substantial  residences;  it  has  an  iron  foundry  in 
operation,  and  half  a  dozen  factories  of  various  kinds;  it  has  ship-ways  with  a 
capacity  for  dry-docking  the  largest  coast  steamers  on  an  hour's  notice;  it  has 
complete  water,  gas,  and  sewer  systems,  and,  as  a  whole,  has  been  converted  into 
a  veritable  garden,  the  streets  being  uniformly  lined  with  tropical  trees,  shrubs,  and 
flowers.  The  surf-bathing  of  Coronado  Beach  is  the  best  on  the  entire  coast, 
and  probably  the  finest  in  the  world.  The  beach  slopes  gently,  and  the  sand  is 
hard  and  free  from  stones  and  ragged  shells,  and  there  is  no  undertow.  The  tem- 
perature of  the  air  and  of  the  sea  is  about  equal  both  in  winter  and  summer; 
consequently  there  are  extraordinary  inducements  for  surf-bathing  all  the 
year  round. 

Roseville  and  New  Roseville  are  located  not  far  from  the  entrance 
to  the  harbor.  A  fine  wharf  has  been  built  there,  regular  ferries  established,  and 
the  works  of  the  San  Diego  Nail  Factory  are  now  being  erected.  Thev  will  have 
a  capacity  of  500  kegs  of  nails  a  day,  and  will  lie  one  of  tin-  important  industries  of 
tin-  San  Diego  region. 

The  Sweetwater  Dam.  This  dam  is  one  of  the  engineering  wonders 
(  f  this  region,  and  an  excursion  to  it  is  a  most  enjoyable  experience.  It  is  situ- 
•  ted  about  six  miles  back  of  National  City,  and  is  reached  by  the  National  City  & 
Otay  Railroad.  The  dam,  together  with  sixty-five  miles  of  wrought-iron  pipe  laid 
from  the  reservoir  to  National  City,  and  to  various  points  in  that  section  for  irriga- 
tion purposes,  cost  a  total  of  $800,000.  The  dimensions  of  the  dam  are  as  follows: 
46  feet  in  thickness  at  the  base,  12  feet  in  thickness  at  the  top,  75  feet  in  length  at 
the  base,  396  feet  in  length  at  the  top.  The  reservoir  is  three  miles  long,  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  and  covers  700  acres.  When  full  it  will  hold  six  billion  gal- 
lons of  water,  a  quantity  sufficient  to  irrigate  30,000  acres  of  land  and  supply  a  city 
of  50,000  people  for  one  year,  or  irrigate  50,000  acres  of  land  one  year. 

The  climate  of  this  region  is  a  perpetual  source 

of   wonder   to    visitors.     It   is   stating   the   simple, 

unquestionable    fact   to   say   that   it   has   no   equal 

among  the  health  resorts  of  the  world.     From  the 

compiled  records  of  the  U.  S.  Signal  station  here 

we    extract    the    following:     From    1876    to    1885, 

both  years  inclusive,  covering  a  period  of  ten  years, 

and  embracing  a  period  of  3,653  days,  there  were 

3,533  days  on  which  the  mercury  did  not  rise  above 

8o°;  and  only  120  days  in  ten  years  in  which  the 

thermometer    marked  a   higher    temperature    than 

8o°.     During  these  ten  years  there  were  never  more  than  two  days  in  any  one 

month  in  which  the  mercury  rose  as  high  as  85°    except  June,   1877,  four  days; 

September,  187S,  five  days;  June,  1879,  two  days;  September,  1879,  four  days. 

Returiiiii}*-  to  Los  Angeles.  The  lovers  of  fine  scenery,  yachting, 
ocean  bathing,  calt-sea  fishing,  outings  among  the  hills,  and  those  who  delight  in 
a  summer  which  circles  the  entire  year  will  most  reluctantly  tear  themselves  away 
from  the  charms  of  San  Diego.  But  one  can't  travel  and  stand  still  at  the  same 
time;  so  we  take  a  night  train  northward  on  the  same  line  we  came  in  on,  and 


THE  CLIMATE. 

Summer  the  Year 

Round. 

The  Home  of  Health 

and  Pleasure. 


!20 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


sleep  sweetly  in  one  of  Pullman's  Palaces  until  we  reach  Colton.  Here,  after  a 
good  breakfast,  we  take  the  Southern  Pacific  road  for  Los  Angeles,  thus  passing 
through  new  scenes  from  this  point  on  to  our  destination.  The  first  station  reached 
after  leaving  Colton  is 

CllCamong'a.  This  town  is  situated  in  the  region  made  familiar  to  the 
public  by  the  Cucamonga  wine,  the  grapes  here  being  noted  for  their  fine  quality. 
Slover  Mountain  is  near  Cucamonga,  and  is  remarkable  for  containing  quarries  of 
onyx,  lime,  marble,  and  cement.  The  "Mountain"  is  in  reality  only  a  moderate- 
sized  conical  hill,  but  its  rich  deposits  make  it  more  valuable  than  a  whole  range  of 
its  big  brothers.  The  marble'is  of  the  best  quality,  and  can  be  quarried  in  great 
blocks,  fifty  feet  long,  if  desired,  and  with  a  width  of  from  five  to  six  feet.     The 


EUCLID  AVENUE,   ONTARIO,   CAL. 


onyx  is  white,  and  is  mined  in  large  quantities  for  ornamental  uses.  Along  the 
southern  foot  of  Slover  Mountain  flows  the  river  Santa  Ana. 

Ontario  is  located  on  the  main  lines  of  the  Southern  Pacific  and  the  Santa 
Fe  Railways,  the  main  depot  being  on  the  Southern  Pacific,  38  miles  from  Los 
Angeles  and  20  from  Colton,  while  the  Santa  Fe  runs  two  miles  north,  the  station 
being  North  Ontario.  From  the  Southern  Pacific  depot,  a  branch  line  extends  to 
Chino.  The  Southern  Pacific  and  Santa  Fe  run  also  three  trains  daily  each 
way,  thus  affording  first-class  railway  facilities.  Ontario  comprises  some  twelve 
thousand  acres,  located  on  the  mesa,  which  slopes  south  gradually  from  the  Sierra 
Madre  Mountains  to  the  Santa  Ana  River.  It  is  in  the  west  part  of  what  is 
commonly  known  as  the  San  Bernardino  Valley,  and  occupies  the  highest  point 
passed  by  rail  or  carriage  road  between  Los  Angeles  and  San  Bernardino.  The 
lands  reach  from  the  mountains  around  the  San  Antonio  canon  to  the  Chino 
Ranch,  a  distance  of  about  nine  miles,  and  the  Colony  ranges  in  width  from 
one  to  three  miles.  The  altitude  is  a  little  less  than  one  thousand  feet  at  the 
ranch  line,  and  the  grade  is  about  one  hundred  feet  to  the  mile,  increasing  a 
little  nearer  the  mountains,  the  mouth  of  the  canon  being  about  two  thousand 
two  hundred  feet  above  sea  level. 

The  scenery  around   Ontario  is  of   the  most  striking  and   attractive   char- 


222 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


SAN  ANTONIO   FALLS,   ONTARIO,   CAL. 


actcr.  To  the  northwest  rise  the 
Sierra  Madre  Mountains,  while  to  the 
east  towers  the  San  Bernardino  Range, 
and  to  the  west  slumbers  the  dreamy 
Pacific  Ocean.  As  special  landmarks 
in  this  striking  scene  are  the  four 
highest  peaks  of  Southern  California, 
namely:  Mount  San  Bernardino  and 
Old  Grayback  to  the  east,  San  Jacinto 
to  the  southeast,  and  Mt.  San  Antonio 
(Old  Baldy)  adjoining  the  Ontario 
tract  on  the  north.  Ontario  occupies 
the  elevated  plateau  between  the  San 
Bernardino  Mountains  and  the  ocean. 
The  mountains  being  closely  adjacent, 
and  the  sea  being  forty  miles  distant. 
The  settler  can  choose  his  altitude 
from  nine  hundred  to  two  thousand 
five  hundred  feet,  and  by  so  doing 
find  exactly  the  climate  that  is  suited 
to  his  personal  tastes.  On  the  higher 
slopes  of  Ontario  we  can  see  orange 
groves  bearing  fruit  and  flowers  in 
delightful  profusion,  suggesting  the 
breezes  of  "Araby  the  blest,"  while 
half  a  dozen  miles  distant  on  the 
mountain  peaks  gleams  the  arctic 
snows.  Nowhere  in  the  world  are 
summer  and  winter  brought  into 
closer  juxtaposition.  The  zones  of 
perpetual  summer  and  never-ending 
winter  are  separated  only  by  the 
San  Antonio  Canon.  Nor  is  it 
scenery  alone  which  recommends  the 
"Model  Colony"  of  Ontario.  Here 
are  the  best  fruit  lands  in  this  coun- 
try of  fruit-producing  acres.  Here 
the  orange  and  the  lime  grow  most 
perfectly  and  most  abundantly;  here 
deciduous  fruits  flourish,  and  here, 
ir  a  word,  is  the  fruit-grower's  para- 
dise. It  is  alleged  that  orange  groves 
;il  less  than  four  years  of  age  have 
produced,  and  frequently  do  produce, 
from  three  hundred  to  five  hundred 
dollars  worth  of  fruit  per  acre.  So 
great  is  the  fertility,  indeed,  that 
three-year-old  trees  have  been  known 
to  produce  a  full  box  of  oranges  each. 
But   oranges   are    not    the    sole    pro- 


POMONA. 

Health  and  Pleasure 

Resort. 

A  Fruit-Growing 

Paradise. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  223 

ducts  of  this  wonderful  soil.  There  are  grown  in  gnat  profusion  the  olive. 
peach,  apricot,  guava,  prune,  pear,  ^apple,   persimmon,   plum,   raisin,   and  grape. 

and  when  one  has  mentioned  these,  he  lias  only  begun  the  list.  For  residence 
there  can  be  no  pleasanter  place  than  Ontario,  and  for  horticulture  and  aboricul- 
ture  surely  no  place  can  claim  precedence. 

One  of  the  prettiest  towns  in   the  San    Bernar- 
dino Valley  is  Pomona,  in  the  eastern  part  of  Los 
Angeles  County,  thirty  miles  from   the  city  of  Los 
Angeles   and   thirty   miles   from   the   Pacific   Ocean 
northward   and  fifty  miles  eastward.     The   Sierra 
Madre   range  of  mountains — average   elevation   of 
nine  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  with  snow-capped 
peaks — are  distant  six  miles  north,  and  Mt.   San 
Bernardino  (height  eleven  thousand  feet)  and  Ml. 
San  Jacinto  (about  the  same  height)  forty  and  fifty 
miles  eastward.     The  lower  range,  called  the  San 
Jose   Hills,  midway  between  the   Sierra    Madre   Range  and  the  ocean,  terminates 
at    the    city,    and    the    great    valley   widens    at    this    point    to    twenty-five    and 
thirty  miles. 

Thus  these  high  mountain  ranges  protect  this  valley  equally  from  harsh  sea 
winds  and  the  unpleasant  dry  winds  and  sand  storms  of  the  desert.  The  altitude 
of  the  city  is  eight  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the  sea,  the  valley  rising  gradually 
to  two  thousand  feet  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  The  immediate  locality  bears 
a  similar  relation  to  the  mountains  and  the  ocean  as  the  celebrated  health  resorts 
of  Mentone  and  Nice. 

A  ride  through  the  streets  of  the  city,  or  along  the  many  roads  traversing  the 
country  in  every  direction,  will  disclose  many  fine  residences;  also  cosy,  comfortable 
homes.  Houses,  which  are  neither  large  nor  costly,  show  the  refinement  of  true 
comfort  and  adaptation  to  the  wants  of  the  owners.  The  mild,  open  winters,  and 
consequent  freedom  from  cold,  do  not  require  as  expensive  houses  as  in  eastern 
and  northern  climates;  therefore  the  house  is  open,  cheer}-,  and  homelike  in  its 
appointments,  many  with  broad  verandas  for  the  open-air  life  of  the  occupants 
during  most  of  the  days  of  the  year;  and  yet  the  individuality  of  the  owner  is  as 
plainly  seen  in  the  architecture  and  plan  of  the  modest  home  as  the  more  preten- 
tious buildings  of  the  city  or  in  older  communities;  for  these  quiet  homes  are  sur- 
rounded by  groves  of  trees,  many  of  them  evergreen— rows  of  vines  extending 
almost  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach — with  roses  and  flowers  from  the  roadside  to 
and  surrounding  the  house,  the  whole  deeply  impressing  the  visitor  with  the  air  of 
homelike  comfort   and  cheerfulness  everywhere  prevailing. 

The  town  is  fortunate  in  having  an  abundant  supply  of  water  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year,  this  precious  fluid  being  obtained  from  three  sources  namely, 
San  Antonio  Canon,  numerous  cienegas  which  encircle  the  valley,  and  which  are 
fed  by  subterranean  streams  from  the  high  mountains,  and  artesian  wells.  There 
are  in  this  valley  some  of  the  finest  flowing  wells  upon  the  continent,  some  of  which 
have  given  an  undiminished  flow  for  nearly  ten  years.  There  are  now  flowing  in 
the  Pomona  Valley  sixty-seven  wells,  fifty-two  of  which  are  owned  by  the  Pomona 
Land  and  Water  Company,  who  are  extending  their  works  at  different  points  and 
increasing  the  number. 

These  waters  are  alike  free  from  alkaline,  saline,  or  mineral  taint,  and  deli- 
riously cool   and  invigorating.      The  right  to  use  water   for  irrigation  is  sold  witb 


224 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


the  land,  so  that  there  need  be  no  fear  of  a  lack  of  this  necessity  upon  the  part  of 
those  who  settle  here. 

Beyond  Pomona  are  a  number  of  small  stations  possessing  all  the  requisites  of 
climate,  soil,  and  scenery  to  become  thriving  towns;  which,  doubtless,  will  be  the 
outcome  in  a  few  years.  At  present,  however,  they  possess  only  a  statistical  value 
to  the  tourist.  These  stations  occur  in  the  following  order:  Spadro,  Lemon, 
Puenta,  Monte,  and  Savanna 


THE   COAST   LINE. 

LOS    ANGELES   TO   SAN   FRANCISCO. 


UCH  time  having  been  spent  with  pleasure  and  profit  in  the  vicinity 
of  Los  Angeles,  we  reluctantly  turn  our  faces  to  tht  north  and  take  up 
our  journey  by  way  of  the  new  and  beautiful  Coast  Lme,  with  San 
Francisco  again  our  destination. 

Los  Angeles  to  Santa  Barbara.      Northward  from 

Los   Angeles   the  Southern  Pacific  Company's    line    strikes   boldly 

between  the  Sierra  Madre  and  San  Rafael  ranges,  and  turning  to  the  left  from 

Saugus,  between  beetling  cliffs  and  the  ocean,  forms  the  famous  shore  line  to  Santa 

Barbara. 

Tropioo.  Tropico  is  a  beautiful  suburb  of  Los  Angeles,  thirteen  minutes 
away.  It  is  the  station  for  East  and  West  Glendale,  Verduga,  and  Eagle  Rock.  It 
is  famous  for  small  fruits,  especially  winter  strawberries,  and  ships  200  carloads  of 
oranges  per  year.  Its  beautiful  location  is  making  it  very  popular  as  a  place  of 
homes. 

Blirbailk.  Burbank  is  the  center  of  enough  rich  land  to  support  a  city.  An 
irrigating  system  will  shortly  double  values  about  this  handsome  town.  Agriculture 
means  prosperity  hereabouts. 

ChatSWOrth  Park .  Chatsworth  Park,  the  terminus  of  a  branch  from  Bur- 
bank,  is  in  a  few  months  to  be  on  the  maih  line.  A  glance  at  the  map  will  show 
how  the  new  through  line  will  appear  when  the  work  on  the  gap  between  Oxnard 
and  Chatsworth  Park,  now  being  carried  on,  is  completed.  The  contract  has  been 
let  for  the  last  great  tunnel  necessary  to  complete  the  cut-off.  This  country  is  of 
the  good  old-fashioned  agricultural  kind  that  produces  many  bushels  to  the  acre, 
and  the  crop  returns  fill  many  carloads. 

Fernando.  In  the  north  end  of  the  San  Fernando  valley  is  the  town  of  Fer- 
nando, proud  of  an  old  mission  and  a  new  mission,  too.  The  old  affair  is  being 
looked  after  by  the  Landmark  Club;  the  new  one  is  being  cared  for  by  Fernando's 
confident  and  energetic  citizens.  Orange,  lemon,  and  olive  groves  are  profitably  in 
evidence.  There  is  one  little  olive  grove  of  1,200  acres  planted  a  short  time  ago 
that  is  worthy  of  attention.  Artesian  wells  furnish  good  water.  The  climate  is 
oi  the  best. 

Mission  San  Fernando  de  Espafio  is  near  the  station,  and  is  noted  both  for  its 
own  beauty  and  the  loveliness  of  its  surroundings.  The  historic  structure  with  its 
great  arches,  tile-paved  floor,  its  long  cloister  and  ruined  fountain,  bring  vividly  to 
mind  the  self-sacrificing  toil  of  generations  gone. 

!Newliall.  Newhall  has  two  industries  that  are  factors  in  prosperity;  oil  wells 
and  placer  gold  mines,  both  of  which  are  adding  to  the  jolly  appearance  of  its  inhab- 
itants. It  has  one  oil  well  that  produces  pure  petroleum,  claimed  to  be  a  specific 
for  rheumatism.     The  town  is  a  natural  sanitarium. 

Saugus.     Saugus  is  the  junction  point  of  the  Santa  Barbara  branch  and  the 

225 


2>2  6  OVER   THE  RANGE 

main  line.  It  claims  fame  as  a  health  resort,  and  at  least  one  Southern  Pacific  agent 
owes  his  life  to  the  worth  of  its  climate.  To  the  north  on  the  main  line  are  in  succes- 
sion Lang,  Ravenna,  Acton,  Vincent,  Palmdale,  Lancaster,  Mojave,  and  Tehachapi. 
Actoil.  Acton  is  becoming  prominent  as  a  health  resort,  its  altitude,  equitable 
temperature,  dry  climate,  and  interesting  surroundings  making  it  a  first-class  place 
wherein  to  laugh  and  grow  fat.  At  no  place  in  California  can  tourists  see  with  less 
trouble  gold  mines  in  operation  than  here.  There  are  about  twenty  gold  mines,  one 
extending  750  feet  underground,  and  many  of  them  very  productive. 

Acton  is  the  gateway  to  the  new  resort  on  Mt.  Gleason,  destined  to  be  one  of  the 
great  popular  pleasure  places  on  the  coast.  From  its  6,000-foot  elevation  may  be 
seen  mountain,  desert,  valley,  ocean.  Trees  up  there  are  200  feet  high;  but  if  you 
do  not  cai>i  for  climbing,  hunting,  exploring,  and  quartz-collecting  are  enjoyable 
pastimes. 

Mojave.  Mojave  is  the  junction  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company  and  the 
Santa  Fe  Pacific  Railroad,  and  is  a  railroad  center  of  some  importance,  A  large 
mining  country  is  tributary  to  it,  and  recent  developments  promise  well  for 
Mojave. 

Cailllllos.  Westward  the  Santa  Barbara  branch  passes  through  picturesque 
Camulos,  ever  dear  to  the  lovers  of  literature  as  the  home  of  "Ramona."  Here  by 
the  Santa  Clara  River  with  the  mountains  of  San  Fernando  on  the  south,  and  to  the 
north  the  gentle  foothills,  lived  Ramona.  The  corrals,  vineyards,  and  orchards,  and 
the  old  chapel,  still  stand  as  of  old,  vivid  proof  of  the  power  of  word-picturing 
possessed  by  Helen  Hunt  Jackson. 

Pirn.  At  Piru  all  kinds  of  fruit  are  at  home,  and  many  a  valuable  orchard 
bears  evidence  by  the  carload  of  the  value  of  good  land  and  perfect  climate. 

Fillmore  (Sespe  CaiiOll).  Fillmore  and  more  oil,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
interesting  Sespe  Canon,  a  delightful  hunting  and  fishing  country.  Here  the  busy 
bee  gathers  sweetness  from  untold  acres  of  blossom  and  boxes  it  for  the  lazy  man  to 
sweeten  his  taste  upon.  Fillmore  is  the  center  of  the  citrus  belt  of  Ventura  County, 
with  a  fine  irrigating  system. 

Sailta  Paula.  Oil  moves  the  wheels  of  commerce  smoothly  in  Santa  Paula, 
and  the  growth  of  the  town  has  been  steady  since  the  development  of  the  oil  industry. 
The  famous  Sulphur  Mountain  Springs  are  near  here.  Citrus  and  deciduous  fruits 
and  corn,  beans,  and  walnuts  are  raised  in  abundance.  The  city  is  well  built,  paved, 
and  possesses  fine  public  buildings. 

Saticoy.  Saticoy  is  noted  for  its  twenty  acres  of  sparkling  springs  and  its 
artesian  wells;  it  is  a  deciduous  fruit  center,  and  walnuts  and  beans  rival  each  other 
in  profit. 

Moiltalvo.  One  of  the  principal  shipping  points  on  the  coast  line  is  Mon- 
talvo,  surrounded  by  great  orchards  of  fruit,  apricots  and  walnuts  being  extensively 
grown.     It  is  the  junction  of  the  new  live-mile  branch  to  Oxnard. 

Oxiiard.  Oxnard  is  a  city  of  2,000  people.  Its  site  a  few  years  ago  was  an 
ordinary  productive  ranch.  To-day  it  has  fine  brick  business  blocks,  beautiful 
homes,  four  churches,  400  school  children,  school  buildings  costing  $48,000,  good 
hotels,  a  bank  and  one  of  the  largest  beet-sugar  factories  in  America.  The  factory 
can  crush  2,000  tons  of  beets  daily.  It  produced  last  year  several  hundred  carloads 
of  sugar,  a  hundred  carloads  of  beans,  and  a  large  amount  of  grain,  nuts,  and  pota- 
toes.    Several  thousand  head  of  cattle  are  being  successfully  fed  on  beet  pulp. 

Oxnard  has  a  fine  avenue  to  a  fine  ocean  beach,  thirty  minutes'  drive.  It  is  well 
located  in  the  fertile  Santa  Clara  Valley  (not  to  be  confused  with  the  larger  Santa 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  227 

Clara  Valley,  of  which  San  Jose  is  the  center).     It  will  soon  be  on  the  main  Coast 
line  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  and  its  future  is  most  promising. 

An  immense  beet-sugar  factory,  valued  at  $2,000,000,  and  with  a  capacity  of 
2,000  tons  of  beets  per  day,  and  thousands  of  acres  of  sugar  beets,  are  the  cause  of 
Oxnard's  prosperity.  Three  and  a  half  miles  from  Hueneme,  on  the  coast,  it  has 
a  perfect  climate. 

Soillis.  On  the  Oxnard  branch  now  but  within  a  year  to  be  on  the  new  main 
coast  line.  Somis  is  to  be  a  town  of  importance.  From  an  elevation  of  250  feet  it 
overlooks  the  pretty  Las  Posas  Valley  and  the  ocean,  eleven  miles  away.  Beans, 
nuts,  citrus  and  deciduous  fruits  all  do  well  here,  and  fine  crops  of  barley,  corn, 
wheat,  and  oats  are  grown. 

Sail  Buenaventura.  They  know  beans  here,  and  grow  beans,  too.  Not 
in  garden  patches,  but  in  broad  fields  that  stretch  away  to  the  mountains — beans  by 
the  carload,  beans  by  the  trainload,  beans  that  are  excellent  boiled  in  primitive 
hunter's  fashion,  or  baked  in  approved  Boston  style. 

San  Buenaventura  is  the  county  town  of  Ventura  County, and  is  a  pretty,  energetic- 
seaside  city  of  3,000  people.  It  is  the  junction  of  the  Ojai  valley  branch  with  the 
Santa  Barbara  line.  The  country  is  noted  not  only  for  its  beans,  but  as  well  for  the 
variety  and  quantity  of  its  fruits;  a  cannery  has  just  been  built,  and  the  business 
section  improved  by  the  addition  of  fine  new  blocks.  Cattle-raising,  dairying,  and 
hog-raising  are  important  industries. 

Mission  San  Buenaventura,  southernmost  of  the  Channel  missions,  is  in  a  state 
of  good  preservation.  It  is  in  the  city,  within  five  minutes'  walk  of  the  railroad 
station.  The  city  of  Ventura  is  the  home  of  U.  S.  Senator  Bard.  It  is  a  great  health 
resort,  and  among  the  best  governed  of  cities.  The  Elizabeth  Bard  Memorial  Hos- 
pital has  just  been  built. 

Norcllioff'.  A  trip  through  the  fertile  Ojai  valley  to  Nordhoff  is  entrancing.  It 
is  a  park-like  country,  with  trees  hidden  with  climbing  ivy,  a  country  of  beautiful 
views.  Nordhoff  is  in  a  mountain  encompassed  oasis,  a  beauty  panorama  of  moun- 
tains all  about  it.  With  its  added  perfect  climate,  good  fishing  and  hunting,  and 
neighboring  hot  springs,  it  is  a  most  pleasant  vacation  headquarters.  The  Oak 
Glen  cottages,  a  mile  distant,  form  one  of  California's  most  charming  places.  The 
wild  flowers  of  Nordhoff  are  famous  the  world  over. 

Matilija  Hot  Springs.     Only  three  miles  from  Nordhoff  are  Matilija* 
Hot  Springs,  a  wonderfully  good  place  in  which  to  get  well  if  you  are  ill.     Accommo- 
dations are  excellent,  including  a  fine  hotel,  electric  lights,  telephone,  etc. 

Few  trips  by  rail  are  more  interesting  than  that  along  the  shore  line  to  Santa 
Barbara.  On  the  one  hand  cliffs,  castled  and  domed,  and  on  the  other,  within  the 
easy  pitch  of  a  stone,  the  pellucid  waters  of  the  Santa  Barbara  channel.  Like  blue 
clouds  upon  the  horizon  lie  th.-  islands.  With  every  turn  of  nature's  picturesque- 
pathway  comes  some  new  bit  of  entrancing  scenery — a  glimpse  of  the  sunlit  ocean, 
or  of  some  half-hidden  Eden. 

Carpinteria.  Seventeen  miles  beyond  Ventura  is  Carpinteria,  an  old 
Spanish  settlement  in  the  land  of  the  fig-tree  and  vine.  Oranges,  bananas,  lemons, 
guavas,  walnuts,  and  strawberries  flourish.  Here  is  the  largest  grapevine  in  the 
world,  sixty  years  old,  and  now  some  eight  feet  in  circumference  at  its  base.  Five 
miles  more  of  delightful  ride  and  Summerland  is  reached.  Five  miles  distant  is  a 
pretty  mountain  resort — Shepard's  Inn. 

Summerland.  Enjoying  fame  for  many  years  as  a  resort  place,  it  now,  in 
the  light  of  a  singular  development,  promises  great  commercial  importance.     At 


228  OVER  THE  RANGE 

no  other  place  in  the  world  are  oil  wells  bored  in  the  ocean  and  oil  taken  from  the 
depths.  At  last  oil  and  water  seemingly  are  near  to  mingling.  Making  the  ocean 
yield  up  its  oil  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  land  is  a  feat  unique  enough  to  be  worth 
a  journey. 

THE  CHANNEL  COUNTRY  AND  THE   LOMPOC   AND 
SANTA  MARIA  VALLEYS. 

Santa  Barbara.  The  city  of  the  "smiling  channel,"  one  of  the  great 
resort  places  of  the  world,  should  hardly  be  passed  by  here  with  only  a  word.  It 
was  a  famous  resort  thirty  years  ago.  when  travelers  had  no  railway,  but  had  to 
depend  on  steamer  service.  Naturally  beautiful,  lying  between  the  broad  beach  at 
the  water  edge  and  the  Santa  Ynez  Mountains,  it  has  been  helped  by  all  that  wealth 
and  art  and  leisure  could  offer.  On  slopes  and  terraces  its  artistic  homes  have  a 
background  of  ever-blooming  flowers,  of  shrubs  and  trees  such  as  grow  best  in  a 
semi-tropic  clime.  The  one  business  street,  State  Street,  starts  at  the  water's 
edge  at  the  end  of  the  steamship  wharf  and  extends  back  through  the  town  up  the 
slope.  On  either  side  are  ranged  business  blocks  that  give  a  stranger  the  impres- 
sion of  a  city  of  twenty  thousand  people.  The  charms  of  Santa  Barbara,  its  great 
ocean  boulevard,  its  fine  mountain  drives,  its  beautiful  plaza  and  bath-house,  its 
fine  Hotel  Arlington,  and  the  magnificent  Hotel  Potter  just  completed  on  Burton 
Mound,  and  costing  five  hundred  thousand  dollars;  its  perfect  climate  the  year 
round,  its  mountain  and  valley  tours,  its  fishing  and  boating  and  bathing,  its  horse- 
back riding,  polo  playing,  golfing,  yachting — all  these  are  so  common  to  Santa 
Barbara  as  to  seem  hardly  necessary  to  mention.  What  one  of  the  finest  resorts 
should  have,  that  Santa  Barbara  owns.  The  city  is  an  educational  and  artistic 
center.  It  is  the  resort  home  of  many  Eastern  people  of  wealth  who  come  to  spend 
leisure  time  here  in  their  magnificent  country  places. 

The  city,  of  course,  is  well  kept.  It  has  paved  streets,  good  electric  car  system, 
good  lights,  good  water,  and  is  well  built.  A  fine  new  high  school  building  has 
just  been  completed. 

Commercially,  the  city  is  very  prosperous.  It  is  exceedingly  well  governed. 
It  has  an  enterprising  Board  of  Trade.  The  products  include  lemons  and  oranges, 
English  walnuts,  lima  beans,  grain,  pampas  plumes,  all  kinds  of  deciduous  fruits, 
wool,  honey,  live  stock,  stone,  lumber,  and  petroleum.  The  mean  winter  tem- 
perature is  fifty-five  degrees;  the  summer  sixty-four  degrees.  Very  seldom  does  the 
temperature  rise  above  eighty  degrees  or  go  below  forty  degrees.  Santa  Barbara 
is  not  altogether  synonymous  with  dolce  jar  nicntc.  It  is  a  most  excellent  place 
in  which  to  dream  dreams,  but  better  still  in  which  to  live  a  pleasantly  strenuous 
life.  Do  not  let  the  word  "resort"  deceive  you;  there's  a  tonic  in  the  Santa  Bar- 
bara atmosphere,  even  though  it  has  no  month  so  cold  as  April  at  Atlantic  City, 
nor  any  month  so  warm  as  Atlantic  City's  June. 

Mission  Santa  Barbara  Yirgen  y  Martyr  still  serves  the  work  to 
which  it  was  consecrated  when  peace  had  but  come  to  the  American  republic,  and  its 
A-ise  men  were  struggling  with  the  question  of  a  constitution.  The  church  is  of 
dressed  stone,  with  massive  walls  heavily  buttressed.  The  two-story  towers  yet  shel- 
ter the  chime  of  bells,  and  the  famous  garden  with  its  fountain,  so  often  pictured, 
still  scents  the  air  with  fragrance.  The  mission  has  been  carefully  preserved,  and 
to-day  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  imposing  of  them  all.  It  is  a  lighthouse 
of  hope  from  the  sea,  a  beautiful  landmark  in  white  relief  against  the  surrounding 


230 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


green  of  the  hilltops,  its  double  towers  in  stately  dignity  overlooking  their  pleasant 
surroundings  as  they  did  two  generations  ago.  Back  of  Santa  Barbara  is  the 
lovely  vale  of  Montecito,  most  beautiful  of  all  valleys. 

G-oleta .  In  the  valley  of  that  name  is  the  center  of  a  vast  orchard  of  lemons, 
walnuts,  olives,  oranges,  and  pampus  plumes,  interspersed  with  bean  and  sugar 
beet  fields  and  vegetable  gardens.  The  valley  lies  parallel  with  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
separated  from  it  by  beautiful  oak-covered  headlands.  To  the  north  lie  the  Santa 
Ynez  Mountains.  It  is  a  place  of  magnificent  estates.  Many  such  places  as  the 
"Island"  offer  such  charms  for  country  homeseekers  as  are  irresistible.  Other 
stations  are  La  Patera,  Coromar  and  Elwood. 


MISSION,  SANTA  EARBARA. 


Elwood.  This  orchard -surrounded  village  in  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  is 
famous  because  of  the  work  of  that  pioneer  orchardist,  Elwood  Cooper,  whose 
olives,  olive  oil,  persimmons,  and  lemons  are  famous  the  world  over. 

The  Cliff'  Trip.  The  traveler  from  Los  Angeles  has  an  entrancing  view  of 
the  Santa  Barbara  Channel  between  Ventura  and  Santa  Barbara,  the  ride  skirting 
the  water's  edge  the  entire  way;  and  the  journey  northward  along  the  Coast  Line 
from  Santa  Barbara  is  along  the  cliffs  of  the  Pacific  as  far  as  Tangair,  if  we  except 
the  short  ride  through  that  flower  and  fruit  basket,  the  Goleta  Valley. 

So,  from  Ventura  to  the  mouth  of  the  Santa  Ynez  River  and  a  little  way  beyond, 
an  even  hundred  miles,  the  passenger  enjoys  the  greatest  railroad  ride  along  the 
ocean  in  the  world.     There  is  nothing  with  which  to  compare  it. 

The  journey  is  not  at  sea  level,  but  all  the  way  on  cliffs  from  fifty  to  two  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  ocean.  The  road  runs  along  the  very  edge  of  these  cliffs,  which 
descend  as  precipices  to  the  beach  below.  One  may  walk  or  drive  for  miles  at  low 
tide  upon  the  sands  at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs  and  find  few  places  in  which  the  ascent 
to  the  railroad  grade  along  the  verge  of  the  precipices  above  can  be  easily  made. 
The  way  is  broken  with  narrow,  deep  canons  or  arroyos  from  the  Santa  Ynez 
Mountains,  and  these  are  either  filled  or  spanned  by  steel  viaducts  over  which  the 
railroad  crosses. 


233  OVER   THE  RANGE 

The  marine  view  on  this  hundred-mile  journey  along  the  border  line  of  the 
continent,  looking  over  the  beautiful  Santa  Barbara  Channel,  is  indescribable. 
For  but  a  few  years  has  it  been  wholly  accessible  to  travelers;  indeed,  before 
the  completion  of  the  Coast  Line  there  was  not  even  a  wagon-road  west  of  Gaviota 
along  that  picturesque  headland,  stretching  to  Points  Concepcion  and  Arguello- 
The  magnificent  panorama  of  sea  and  sky  with  the  mountainous  islands  of  the 
Channel  rising  between,  the  changing  colors  of  the  ocean,  and  the  particularly 
vivid  contrast  of  the  green  shore  waters  and  the  deep  blue  of  the  more  distant  sea, 
the  varied  pathway  of  rocky  headlands,  deep  canons  with  live-oaks  and  sycamores, 
of  green  mesa  and  rounded  peninsula  and  the  background  of  the  Santa  Ynez 
Mountains,  give  the  wayfarer  something  not  elsewhere  to  be  found  in  all  the  world. 

Naples.  Naples  station  is  on  a  headland  commanding  a  particularly  fine 
view,  but  the  village  itself  is  hidden  among  the  sycamores  and  oaks  of  the  canon 
just  beyond,  owning  a  never-failing  stream  of  mountain  water. 

THE    CANONS    OF   THE   COAST   LINE. 

The  country  from  Naples  to  Point  Arguello  (the  western  pillar  of  the  Santa 
Barbara  Channel)  is  much  alike  throughout.  The  mountains  are  parallel  with 
the  shore,  and  mesas  run  down  from  their  foot  to  the  cliffs.  These  mesas  are 
broken  at  tolerably  regular  intervals  with  canons.  Many  of  these  are  deep  and 
broad,  but  they  have  been  so  nicely  chiseled  out  of  the  mesa  that  they  are  not  to 
be  noted  until  one  comes  squarely  upon  them.  All  are  possessed  of  mountain 
streams  in  winter;  many  have  waters  running  to  the  sea  perennially,  and  back  in 
ihe  mountains  nearly  all  have  never-failing  brooks.  Each  of  these  canons  is 
richly  wooded  with  oak  and  sycamore,  and  each  widens  out  back  in  the  moun- 
tains into  a  little  valley,  or  perhaps  a  series  of  little  valleys.  Each  canon  is  already 
the  home  of  many  people,  and  as  they  become  better  known  they  are  to  be  the 
beautiful  country  estates  of  hundreds  of  people  who  wish  an  ideal  climate  with  an 
ideal  rural  environment.  In  driving  or  walking  up  these  rifts,  one  notes  the  wealth 
of  vegetables  and  small  fruits,  of  limes,  lemons,  lima  beans,  and  oranges,  and 
particularly  English  walnuts.  The  mountain  walls  are  varied,  rugged,  and  pictur- 
esque, the  woodland  scenes  are  unsurpassed  in  beauty,  and  the  whole  canon  such 
an  ideal  home  spot  that  one  wishing  to  get  apart  for  awhile  from  the  madding 
crowd,  would  instinctively  stop  here.  The  canon,  and  the  mesas  between,  belong 
to  a  few  large  estates  which  have  been  held  since  the  days  of  the  old  Spanish  grants. 
Of  these  some  spots  have  been  sold,  and  some  sections  are  for  sale;  but  there  are 
others  which  the  owners  desire  for  homes  and  will  not  part  from,  considering  them 
indeed  as  priceless.  The  beauty  of  the  canons  is  shyly  hid  by  protecting  moun- 
tains and  groves;  yet  enough  may  be  seen,  together  with  the  great  beaches  by  the 
cliffs,  to  make  one  dream  of  the  not  far  distant  day  when  along  the  shore  line  from 
Santa  Barbara  to  Surf  there  shall  be  one  continuous  succession  of  magnificent 
homes  and  resorts;  for  the  climate  is  all  the  way  of  that  charming  quality  that  made 
Santa  Barbara  famous  before  the  railroad  crossed  the  Sierras. 

The  fertility  of  the  canons  and  their  valleys  has  been  mentioned;  the  produc- 
tiveness of  the  mesa  is  also  remarkable.  From  the  train  the  Santa  Ynez  Moun- 
tains, picturesque  and  attractive  as  they  are,  show  small  cover  of  timber;  but  it 
must  not  be  inferred  from  this  that  the  country  lacks  in  fertility  or  in  water.  A 
trip  through  the  canons  will  dispel  that  idea.  Those  who  know  of  the  rather  light 
rainfall  along  the  coast  between  Santa  Barbara  and  Surf  may  be  incredulous  when 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  233 

it  is  said  that  a  crop  failure  is  unknown.  But  it  is  true.  The  highest  mesa,  if 
cultivated,  yields  a  paving  harvest.  The  soil  is  of  such  character  that  a  rainy  season 
is  not  beneficial;  there  seems  to  be  a  reservoir  beneath  this  land,  and  the  capillary 
attraction  is  sufficient  to  show  it  the  way  to  the  surface.  The  running  springs  out 
on  the  very  backbone  of  Point  Concepcion,  where  the  grass  is  green — when  nearlv 
all  California  has  donned  its  robe  of  russet — tells  of  the  plant  life  of  the  shore 
country. 

The  mesa  products  are  at  present  cattle,  sheep,  grain,  hay,  and  oak  wood. 
These  will  be  vastly  varied  and  increased  as  the  estates  are  subdivided. 

Edwards  City.  Only  a  siding  now  across  the  canon  westward  from  Naples, 
but  with  that  point  soon  to  become  a  fine  resort.  Note  the  vie  from  the  headland 
with  its  great  oaks. 

Capitan,  Orella,  Tajiguas.  Canon  stations  which  will  increase  in 
importance  as  the  tributary  estates  are  subdivided  and  sold.  You  catch  glimpses 
of  beautiful  beaches  along  here;  the  shell-gatherers  will  soon  know  them  as  among 
the  finest  of  the  coast.     Bathing  may  be  enjoyed  here  the  year  round. 

Alcatraz.  Known  for  its  great  asphalt  and  oil  plant.  Oil  is  piped  herefrom 
the  Cuyama  wells.  It  is  a  model  industrial  colony,  and  the  great  rows  of  eucalyptus 
trees,  the  pretty  cottages,  the  well-kept  grounds  and  buildings,  all  help  make  it  very 
attractive.  One  should  note  the  historic  old  stage  road  that  from  Santa  Barbara  to 
Gaviota  is  near  the  railroad.  A  hundred  and  twenty-five  years  ago  it  was  "el 
camino  real"  of  the  Franciscan  friars,  and  for  the  last  century  has  been  one  of  the 
famous  stage  highways  of  the  West. 

Gaviota.  The  station  is  midway  between  the  Gaviota  canon  and  Alcatraz  on 
the  mesa.  The  little  settlement  of  Gaviota  may  be  seen  crossing  the  high  viaduct 
above  the  wharf.  It  is  a  stage  station,  and  daily  stages  run  to  Los  Olivos  twenty  miles 
distant  through  Gaviota  Pass.  It  may  also  be  noted  that  the  stage  office  is  a  private 
dwelling,  a  farm-house,  a  post-office,  a  restaurant,  a  telephone  office,  a  steamship 
office,  a  general  store,  and  a  hotel.  The  Gaviota  Pass  to  the  north  is  beautiful.  A 
mile  from  the  emporium,  the  backbone  of  a  mountain  has  been  worn  through  by  the 
stream,  each  portal  being  immense  rocks  several  hundred  feet  high,  and  so  scarred 
and  twisted,  with  such  varying  strata,  as  to  justify  close  study. 

The  Overhanging  Rock.  The  stream  wore  only  a  passageway  for  it; 
narrow  width,  so  a  bridge  must  need  span  it  between  these  portals.  Just  beyond  is 
the  marvelous  overhanging  rock.  One  can  stand  in  the  roadway  and  look  up  at  this 
great  mass  of  granite,  hundreds  of  tons  in  weight,  hanging  direct  overhead  fifty  feet 
above  you.  It  is  not  the  projecting  arm  of  the  cliff,  but  a  separate  rounded  rock  that 
seems  to  cling  to  the  cliff  side  without  any  reason  whatever.  It  is  said  that  every 
person  whose  attention  has  been  unexpectedly  called  to  this  overhanging  boulder 
has  instinctively  "moved  on."  Here  the  Indians  proposed  to  waylay  General 
Fremont  on  his  California  journey,  in  1846,  but  he  wisely  chose  a  less  rocky  pass- 
Just  above  are  two  locally  famous  hot  springs,  which  time  will  develop. 

Sacate,  Santa  Anita,  San  Augustine,  Gato,  stations  which 
mark  pretty  beaches,  fertile  fields,  and  cattle  ranches. 

Concepcion.  The  station  is  in  the  center  of  the  neck  of  the  point  near  the 
cold  springs.  Seaward  rises  the  great  rock,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  on  which 
the  white  houses  of  the  light  house-keepers'  stand.  It  marks  the  end  of  Point  Con- 
cepcion, and  is  perhaps  the  most  picturesque  cliff  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  It  is  the  end 
of  the  Santa  Barbara  Channel,  and  on  its  western  side  is  washed  by  the  waters  of 


234  OVER    THE  RANGE 

the  Pacific.  The  lighthouse  is  not  visible  from  the  train  until  one  is  many  miles 
west.  It  is  not  on  the  top  of  the  gigantic  shelf,  but  on  a  rocky  shelf  part  way  down. 
The  fuel,  etc.,  for  the  lighthouse  are  chuted  from  the  top  of  the  rock  some  hundred 
feet  down  to  this  shelf,  to  which  a  narrow  stair  also  leads.  From  the  top  of  the  rock 
is  one  of  the  finest  ocean  views  on  the  Facific  Coast.  The  surf  effects  at  the  foot  of 
the  rock  during  or  soon  after  a  storm  are  tremendous  beyond  description.  The  Point 
Concepcion  peninsula  is  itself  very  pretty  and  fertile.  Many  thousands  of  cattle 
find  pasture  hereabouts. 

The  hot  springs  of  the  point  are  already  well  known,  and  this  with  the  fine  beach 
and  equitable  climate,  make  the  success  of  the  proposed  resort  unquestioned. 

Jalama.  On  the  inner  curve  of  the  bay  between  Points  Concepcion  and  Ar- 
guello,  at  the  mouth  of  Jalama  Creek,  which  leads  back  into  the  mountains  into  a 
beautiful  valley,  the  ruins  of  adobe  ranch-houses  a  century  old  tell  of  the 
good  judgment  of  the  Franciscan  friars.  They  found  the  beautiful  places  of  the 
Pacific  Coast  seemingly  without  effort.  The  Jalama  Hot  Springs  are  worthy  of 
mention. 

Point  Argliello.  A  jagged,  sea-worn  point,  which  perhaps  better  than 
Point  Concepcion  marks  the  meeting-point  of  ocean  and  channel.  The  government 
has  recently  erected  a  lighthouse,  in  which  the  revolving  light  is  operated  by  com- 
pressed air.  Here  the  line  turns  northward.  We  pass  Honda  and  Weser  (fertile 
country  in  the  interior),  and  reach 

Surf,  set  on  a  rocky,  shelf-like  cliff  between  the  sand  dunes  and  the  sea.  Here 
the  Pacific  is  unrolled  as  one  great  picture.  It  is  the  junction  of  the  main  line  with 
the  Lompoc  branch. 

LompOC  and  Lompoc  Valley.  The  Lompoc  Valley,  watered  by  the 
Santa  Ynez  River,  is  one  of  California's  finest  valleys.  It  extends^  eastward  under 
the  brow  of  the  Santa  Ynez  Mountains.  Tributary  to  Lompoc  are  one  hundred  and 
forty  thousand  acres  of  farming  and  grazing  land.  Of  the  twenty-seven  thousand 
acres  of  rich  farming  land,  fifteen  thousand  acres  arc  ir.  the  Lompoc  Valley  proper, 
all  of  which  in  time  will  doubtless  be  given  over  to  appbs,  apricots,  prunes,  cherries, 
and  vegetables  and  small  fruits,  requiring  intensive  farming.  The  Santa  Ynez 
River  is  available  for  irrigation  at  nominal  expense,  and  while  there  have  never 
been  crop  failures,  irrigation,  as  more  scientific,  will  be  adopted  in  time. 

The  Lompoc  Colony  was  organized  in  1874,  and  so  well  pleased  were  the  fifteen 
hundred  people  who  came  in  during  the  next  five  years  by  stage  and  steamer,  that 
none  left  willingly.  Now  that  the  valley  is  crossed  by  the  main  Coast  Line,  its  four 
thousand  population  is  expected  to  increase  largely. 

The  climate  is  unexcelled,  the  summer  maximum  being  eighty-nine  degrees,  and 
the  winter  minimum  twenty-four  degrees.  The  nights  are  always  cool,  the  distance 
to  the  sea  being  but  nine  miles.  Ocean  Avenue,  eighty  feet  wide,  all  macadamized 
and  sprinkled  daily,  runs  from  the  town  to  the  beach.  There  are  many  fine  scenic 
drives  among  the  mountains,  including  one  through  Miguelito  Canon  to  the  cave  on 
the  Hondo,  where  a  prehistoric  artist  has  put  to  blush  the  old  masters  with  his 
quaint  drawings.     In  the  winter  and  spring  the  valley  is  a  wild-flower  garden. 

La  Purissima  Mission  is  three  miles  from  the  town;  founded  in  1787,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  of  the  missions,  but  is  now  rapidly  crumbling. 

The  products  of  the  valley  are  indicated  by  the  exports  in  carload  lots  of  barley, 
lime  rock,  potatoes,  apples,  mustard  seed,  infusorial  earth,  apricots,  beets,  and  beans, 
the  total  amounting  to  over  a  thousand  cars  per  annum.     Lompo~  apples  captured 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  235 

first  medals  at  the  New  Orleans  Exposition  and  the  Chicago  World's  Fair.  The 
valley  raises  one-half  of  the  mustard  seed  used  in  this  country,  and  is  the  second 
apple-producing  section  in  California.  Land  is  worth  from  twenty  to  one  hundred 
and  twenty-five  dollars  per  acre. 

The  town  is  well  built  with  many  fine  homes.  It  is  well  lighted,  has  good  side- 
walks, macadamized  streets,  a  fine  water  system,  grammar  and  high  school  buildings. 
There  are  seven  churches,  a  bank,  two  hotels,  and  two  newspapers.  Fraternal  orders 
are  unusually  strong.  Lompoc  adjoins  the  foothills,  its  orchards  and  fields  in  front 
of  it.  There  is  fine  hunting  and  fishing  in  the  wild  mountains  surrounding  the 
valley,  with  deer,  mountain  lion,  and  even  bear  now  and  then  to  lend  excitement  to 
the  chase,  regardless  of  who  is  chased. 

Tangair,  Narlon,  ami  Alltoilio.  In  order,  after  crossing  the  Santa 
Ynez  River  are  stations  for  the  "back  country,"  with  oak-covered  hills  and  valleys 
full  of  wheat.  A  country  of  great  oil  and  asphalt  deposits  and  many  cattle  and 
dairy  ranches. 

Casmalia.  Shipping-point  for  fertile  interior  valleys  and  hills.  It  is  the  rail- 
road station  for  large  asphalt  mines,  and  for  oil  wells  some  nine  or  ten  miles  in  the 
interior.  It  may  be  mentioned  here  that  the  asphalt  deposits  of  Santa  Barbara 
County  along  the  Coast  Line  are  of  vast  extent,  and  the  product  is  of  the  greatest 
purity  known,  running  up  to  seventy-six  degrees  in  the  raw  material.  The  country 
about  Casmalia  is  rich  in  dairy  and  farming  possibilities.  Large  quantities  of  butter 
and  eggs  are  shipped  daily.  Beans  and  mustard  seed  have  proved  in  the  last  few 
years  to  be  fine  crops.  Hogs,  potatoes,  asphalt,  wheat,  oats,  and  barley  are  shipped 
in  carload  lots,  and  as  soon  as  a  pipe  line  is  completed  from  the  oil  wells  in  the 
interior  oil  shipments  will  be  heavy.  The  wealth  of  this  section  so  far  has  gone 
almost  unrealized  and  unknown;  but  the  "closing  of  the  gap"  will  soon  change 
all  that. 

Schumann  and  Waldorf.  These  are  flag  stops  along  the  edge  of  the 
beautiful  Santa  Maria  Valley,  which  appears  in  view  just  after  leaving  Casmalia. 
Waldorf  lies  near  a  famous  asphalt  mine. 

Guadalupe.  The  railroad  leaves  the  mountains  and  crosses  the  mouth  of  the 
great  Santa  Maria  Valley.  Midway  is  the  old  Spanish  town  of  Guadalupe,  now 
awakening  from  a  long  time  sleep  to  a  commercial  activity  that  could  not  be  avoided 
after  the  completion  of  the  Coast  Line.  The  town  itself,  lying  slightly  north  of  the 
station,  is  a  pleasant  place  of  five  hundred  people,  with  a  bank,  warehouse,  brick 
business  blocks,  and  several  creameries.  The  land  about  it  is  unexcelled  for  bean, 
beet,  potato,  and  barley  culture.  There  are  two  beautiful  drives  to  the  famous  Pismo 
Beach. 

The  Santa  Maria  Valley,  largest  in  all  Santa  Barbara  County,  and  third  among 
those  of  the  Coast  section,  is  forty  miles  long  by  ten  miles  wide.  From  the  sea  its 
direction  is  eastward,  trending  southerly  midway.  Lying  between  the  ranges  of  the 
Coast  Mountains,  with  a  famous  climate  and  a  richness  of  soil  not  anywhere  exceeded, 
this  great  valley  will,  within  ten  years'  time,  have  tripled  its  present  population. 
There  are  not  five  thousand  people  in  the  valley,  and  it  could  easily  support  fifty 
thousand.  In  driving  through  it,  one  is  impressed  by  the  uniform  richness  of  the 
land.  Even  more  so  than  the  Lompoc  Valley  is  the  area  between  the  mountains 
level.  The  soil  is  a  rich  black  deposit,  like  that  of  Illinois  or  Iowa,  save  the  more 
sandy  stretches  along  the  Santa  Maria  River.  Every  acre  is  richly  productive. 
Here,  as  in  the  Lompoc  Valley,  good  valley  land  can  be  bought  for  fifty  to  one  hun- 


236  OVER    THE   RANGE 

dred  and  fifty  dollars  per  acre,  depending  upon  the  nearness  to  town,  etc.  Cattle 
ranches  and  hill  lands  generally  are  much  cheaper. 

The  oldest  settler  in  Santa  Maria,  who  has  lived  there  forty  years,  says  that  they 
have  never  had  a  crop  failure.  In  the  two  driest  years  California  ever  had  they  did 
not  suffer.  Indians  were  at  one  time  very  plentiful,  as  also  was  game  of  all  kinds. 
The  bears,  three  or  four  in  a  sociable  party,  thought  nothing  of  walking  through 
the  streets  of  Santa  Maria  town  by  night.  Now  the  Indians  for  the  most  part  have 
taken  the  low  trail  over  the  ridge.  Back  in  the  mountains  bear  are  still  at  home, 
and  in  the  wilderness  of  hills  and  valleys  about  the  central  valley  is  most  excellent 
hunting  and  fishing. 

The  Santa  Maria  Valley  will  produce  eight  to  ten  thousand  acres  of  beans,  six 
thousand  acres  of  sugar  beets,  several  thousand  acres  of  grain — chiefly  barley — ■ 
considerable  fruit,  potatoes,  onions,  and  vegetables,  twenty  cars  of  butter,  eggs, 
and  cheese,  a  few  hundred  cars  of  hogs  and  cattle,  some  mustard,  and  large  quan- 
tities of  oil  and  asphalt  per  annum.  The  resources  of  the  country  are  scarcely 
scratched. 

Just  before  reaching  Guadalupe,  we  look  down  from  the  train  on  the  hillside 
upon  the  large  buildings  of  the  Union  Sugar  Company,  located  on  a  spur  five  miles 
from  Guadalupe  station,  at  Betteravia.  This  side  will  be  noted  Guadalupe  Lake, 
which  is  almost  a  half  a  mile  wide  and  four  miles  long,  having  two  arms.  It  is  a 
beautiful  lake  with  green  banks.     Fishing  and  duck  hunting  are  good. 

The  factory,  which  draws  its  water  supply  from  the  lake,  can  crush  five  hundred 
tons  of  beets  daily.  The  buildings  cost  five  hundred  thousand  dollars.  The  farm 
belonging  to  the  factory  has  four  thousand  two  hundred  acres,  of  which  a  large  part 
is  given  over  to  beets.  Limestone  is  brought  from  the  Lompoc  Valley.  It  is  ex- 
pected that  in  a  few  years  the  one  hundred  thousand  acres  of  good  beet  land,  tribu- 
tary to  the  factory,  will  cause  it  to  increase  its  capacity  tenfold.  This  season  it  will 
crush  about  eighty-five  thousand  tons  of  beets. 

Santa  Maria,  the  business  center  of  the  valley,  is  about  ten  miles  from  Guada- 
lupe, its  Southern  Pacific  station.  Stages  afford  connections  with  all  trains.  The 
town  is  well  planned,  with  very  broad  streets,  good  business  blocks,  and  fine  homes, 
with  an  unusual  amount  of  fruit  and  flowers.  Set  in  the  center  of  the  valley,  in  the 
midst  of  a  large  level  area,  the  view  of  the  encircling  mountains  is  superb.  Santa 
Maria  is  a  lively  and  prosperous  town,  and  would  be  heard  of  more  often  were  it  in 
closer  touch  with  the  outside  world.  A  narrow-gauge  railroad  (P.  C.  R.  R.)  runs 
to  San  Luis  Obispo  and  to  Los  Olivos,  and  a  broad  gauge  branch  from  Guadalupe 
is  looked  for.  The  mercantile  business  done  is  all  out  of  proportion  to  the  size  of 
the  town.  It  has  two  papers,  a  bank,  and  a  savings  bank,  several  fraternal  orders,  a 
good  water  system,  etc.  The  people  are  all  prosperous,  there  not  being  a  single 
industry  that  is  going  backward.  The  apple  and  apricot  crops  are  becoming 
important.     Water  supply,  springs  and  surface  water,  is  abundant. 

It  is  doubtful,  indeed,  if  any  part  of  the  country  offers  any  one  willing  to  work 
greater  opportunities,  from  an  agricultural  or  horticultural  point  of  view,  than 
the  Lompoc  and  Santa  Maria  Valleys. 

Broiliela  and  Callender  are  in  the  Santa  Maria  Valley  and  are  enjoying 
prosperity.     Many  beans  are  shipped  from  Bromela. 


TO    THE  GOLDEX   GATE.  237 

OCEANO  TO  SAN  MIGUEL,  SAN  LUIS  OBISPO   COUNTY. 

OceailO.  A  town  of  one  hundred  people,  lies  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of 
the  Pismo  Beach,  which  is  sixteen  miles  long  and  several  hundred  yards  wide.  It 
has,  therefore,  fine  possibilities  with  the  neighboring  stations  to  the  north  as  a  resort 
place,  but  its  importance  as  a  commercial  station  is  already  deserving  of  attention. 
It  is  the  entrance  to  the  rich  Arroyo  Grande  valley.  Three  miles  away  is  the  town 
of  Arroyo  Grande.  Near  it  is  the  famous  McClure  seed  farm  of  four  hundred  acres, 
whence  arc  shipped  each  year  hundreds  of  tons  of  garden  and  vegetable  seeds  to 
the  leading  seed  houses  of  the  east  and  Europe.  The  Arroyo  Grande  district  is  of 
unexcelled  richness.  Its  lower  districts  produce  immense  crops  of  beans,  celery, 
beets,  strawberries,  blackberries,  onions,  potaoes,  and  all  garden  truck;  its  apples, 
walnuts,  oranges,  pears,  apricots  and  peaches  are  famous,  and  on  its  hillsides  thou- 
sands of  tons  of  barley  are  grown  annually.  The  water  supply  is  fine  and  unfailing. 
A  large  part  of  the  area  under  cultivation  is  "cleared  willow  land." 

Arroyo  Grande.  The  town  of  Arroyo  Grande  is  beautifully  located  on  the 
stream  of  that  name  in  the  center  of  the  district  bearing  its  name,  a  collection  of  very 
rich  va  leys  and  arroyos  with  low  cultivated  hills  intervening.  The  population  is 
one  thousand.  There  are  several  fine  stores,  a  bank,  a  good  schoolhouse,  a  news- 
paper, a  hotel  and  some  of  the  prettiest  homes  in  the  State.  The  town  is  growing 
rapidly.  While  Oceano  is  its  principal  railway  station,  the  Pacific  Coast  Narrow 
Gauge  Railway  gives  connection  with  San  Luis  Obispo  and  Santa  Maria.  The 
walnuts,  apples  and  lemons  of  Arroyo  Grande  Valley  are  not  surpassed  anywhere, 
and  as  a  vegetable  country  it  certainly  knows  beans.  Newsom  Hot  Springs,  six 
miles  from  Arroyo  Grande,  are  destined  to  become  a  fine  resort.  Good  hotel  and 
bath  accommodation  are  now  afforded. 

The  Great  Beach  Drive.  Pismo  Beach  has  already  been  referred  to 
as  the  finest  beach  in  America.  A  magnificent  trip  is  the  drive  from  Oceano  along 
this  beach  to  Pismo,  thence  up  the  canon  via  the  famous  Sycamore  Hot  Springs 
to  San  Luis  Obispo,  or  vice  versa — a  combination  of  sea  and  mountain,  beach  and 
canon.  A  letter  to  the  secretary  of  the  San  Luis  Obispo  Board  of  Trade  will 
result  in  a  team  meeting  you  at  Oceano. 

Grover.  Grover  adjoins  Pismo  Beach,  and  in  a  few  years  will  be  one  of  the 
best  summer  resorts  of  that  magnificent  beach.  Already  hundreds  of  people  camp 
here  during  the  summer. 

Edna.  A  progressive  community  on  the  Corral  de  Piedro  Rancho  of  thirty 
thousand  acres,  six  miles  south  of  San  Luis  Obispo.  It  is  famous  for  its  walnuts,  and 
raises  fine  crops  of  grain,  sugar  beets,  beans,  cattle,  hogs,  and  horses.  The  fruit 
orchards  and  vineyards  pay  well.  The  population  of  two  hundred  is  too  health}-  to 
support  a  physician.  Valley  land  is  worth  one  hundred  dollars  per  acre,  and  hill 
land  from  ten  dollars  up. 

Sail  Luis  Obispo.  City  of  the  Pyramids,  the  county-seat  of  San  Luis  Obispo 
County,  home  of  the  mission  of  the  same  name,  the  commercial  center  of  one  of  the 
richest  and  most  varied  sections  of  California,  and  withal  a  beautiful  town  with  old 
fig  and  olive  trees,  orange  and  walnut  trees,  and  vines  with  flowers  everywhere  adorn- 
ing it  tastefully.  It  is  built  amid  a  cluster  of  pyramidal  mountain  peaks,  isolated 
and  on  the  different  sides  of  the  town,  lending  with  the  ridges  elsewhere  a  picturesque 
outline  to  the  horizon.  The  city  is  by  a  plunging  stream,  San  Luis  Obispo  Creek, 
that  comes  from  the  canon  above  the  town.     The  site  of  San  Luis  Obispo  is  undu- 


238  OVER    THE  RANGE 

lating,  so  that  one  may  be  on  a  hill,  a  hillside,  a  level,  or  in  an  arroyo  and  not  go 
far;  yet  each  seems  to  have  an  easy  way  of  approach,  so  that  a  comprehensive 
journey  is  not  tiresome.  The  well-laid  out  city  is  finely  built,  with  many  shade 
trees,  excellent  water  system,  electric  light  and  gas  systems,  etc.  In  location  it 
resembles  Los  Angeles,  though  nearer  the  ocean.  The  summer  temperature  has  a 
maximum  of  ninety-four  degrees;  the  winter  minimum  is  thirty-two  degrees.  Lemon 
trees  thrive  throughout  the  town,  and  roses  grow  the  year  round. 

San  Luis  Obispo,  though  a  very  busy  commercial  place,  offers  unusual  attrac- 
tions to  tourists.  The  Hotel  Ramona,  with  its  two  hundred  well-furnished  rooms 
has  a  commanding  location  for  the  sightseers  to  whom  it  caters. 

The  many  drives  include  a  twelve-mile  ride  to  the  magnificent  Pismo  Beach 
already  spoken  of,  a  seven-mile  trip  to  the  famous  Sycamore  Hot  Springs  with  its 
good  sulphur  plunge  and  private  bath  located  amid  a  beautiful  sycamore  grove,  a 
nine-mile  journey  to  Avila  Beach,  near  Port  Harford,  a  visit  to  the  picturesque 
Port  Harford  itself,  a  fourteen-mile  excursion  to  famous  Morro,  with  its  singular 
rock  towering  out  of  its  bay,  and  a  seven-mile  ride  up  beautiful  Reservoir  canon. 
Port  Harford,  Avila,  and  Sycamore  Springs  are  also  reached  by  the  Pacific  Coast 
Narrow  Gauge  Railway.  Pleasant  trips  to  the  interior  are  made  over  the  Cuesta 
grade  to  Oak  Park  and  Arroyo  Grande.  In  the  heart  of  the  city  is  the  old  mission, 
San  Luis  Obispo  del  Tolosa,  founded  in  1772;  visitors  are  welcomed. 

San  Luis  Obispo  has  indeed  all  the  necessary  attractions  to  make  it  a  most  charm- 
ing place  of  residence  for  people  seeking  temporarily  or  permanently  a  place  of 
great  attractiveness  and  ideal  climate. 

The  city  has  three  banks,  five  churches,  thirteen  hundred  school-children,  high 
school,  grammar  school,  etc.,  and  leading  fraternal  orders  are  represented.  The 
new  state  polytechnic  school  is  to  be  located  here,  the  site  having  been  purchased  by 
the  trustees.  Extensive  railroad  terminals  and  shops  are  being  built,  and  the  town 
is  growing  faster  than  at  any  previous  period.  The  streets  are  broad,  lined  with 
poplars,  eucalyptus,  and  pepper  trees,  and  in  the  business  section  are  paved.  The 
business  blocks  are  of  stone  and  brick  and  are  imposing.  The  city  owns  its  water 
system.  The  sewer,  gas,  and  electric  systems  are  good.  The  value  of  city 
improvements  is  about  one  million  five  hundred  thousand  dollars.  The  Board 
of  Trade  is  unusually  active. 

North  of  San  Luis  Obispo  is  one  of  the  best  cattle,  grain,  and  dairy  sections  on 
the  Coast.  South  and  west  large  crops  of  beans  and  mustard  seed  are  raised,  and 
to  the  southeast  much  fruit  and  nuts.  In  Los  Osas  Valley  citrus  fruits  pay,  while 
over  towards  the  coast  about  Mono  and  Cayucos  dairy  products  each  year  means 
hundreds  of  carloads.  Beyond  is  the  historic  mining  town  of  Cambria,  with  its 
quicksilver  and  other  mines.  Yet  beyond  is  the  magnificent  Piedras  Blancas  Ranch 
of  forty-eight  thousand  acres.  Six  miles  north  of  its  port,  San  Simeon,  is  the  tall 
tower  of  the  Piedras  Blancas  Lighthouse. 

In  San  Luis  Obispo  County  there  are  perennial  streams  everywhere.  It  is  a 
well-watered  country,  and  irrigation  is  little  practiced  because  of  plentiful  rainfall 
on  the  sea  side  of  the  ranges;  but  scientific  farming  is  going  to  irrigate. 

The  population  of  the  county  is  about  eighteen  thousand,  and  the  assessed  valua- 
tion eleven  millions  five  hundred  thousand  dollars.  It  can  easily  support  ten  times 
the  present  number  of  its  inhabitants. 

The  Horseshoe  Incline.  Leaving  San  Luis  Obispo  the  Coast  Line  climbs 
upwards  into  the  Santa  Lucia  Mountains.  Just  above  San  Luis  Obispo  is  a  remark- 
able inclined  horseshoe  that  as  an  engineering  feat   is  far  more   picturesque  than 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  239 

that  of  the  Pennsylvania.  The  road  crosses  the  stream  some  two  hundred  feet  above 
its  surface,  and  then  describes  a  horseshoe  that  all  the  way  is  on  a  steady  grade. 
Within  two  miles  of  the  bridge  crossing  one  may  look  down  from  the  upper  arm  of 
the  horseshoe  and  see  the  track  over  which  the  train  has  just  passed,  some  two  hun 
dred  feet  below  and  apparently  running  abruptly  into  the  mountainside  at  right- 
angles  to  the  present  line  of  motion. 

The  trip  through  the  Santa  Lucia  Mountains  is  beautiful.  Of  this  Edouard  de 
Reszke  said,  in  the  winter  of  1902,  "Nothing  in  Switzerland  I  have  seen  is  so  beau- 
tiful." The  road  clings  to  the  face  of  the  wall,  and  looking  down  charming  views 
are  had  of  the  fertile  little  valleys  far  below.  The  Santa  Lucia  Mountains  are 
vividly  green  a  large  part  of  the  year,  and  are  well  watered  with  some  thirty  inches 
annually  of  rain.  There  is  fine  trout-fishing  and  good  hunting  in  these  half -unex- 
plored mountains.  Passing  Goldtree,  an  important  grain-shipping  point,  Serrano, 
and  Cuesta  we  reach  Santa  Margarita. 

Sailta  Marg'arita.  A  shipping-point  of  importance  for  some  of  the  finest 
hay  that  ever  grew,  and  for  cattle,  sheep,  and  hogs,  also  wood.  The  town  of  four 
hundred  people  is  pleasantly  located  in  the  forest  of  oaks.  Its  elevation  is  a  thou- 
sand feet.  It  rains  here  in  winter  forty  to  forty-five  inches,  and  irrigation  lecturers 
get  no  hearers.  Surrounding  the  town  is  the  famous  Santa  Margarita  Ranch  of 
twenty-five  thousand  acres. 

From  Santa  Margarita  the  way  leads  downward  through  magnificent  oak  forests 
into  the  great  Salinas  Valley.  On  the  way  we  pass  Havel,  Atascadero,  and  Asuncion, 
bordering  the  great  Henry  Ranch,  rich  in  timber,  grain,  hay,  and  stock.  Some  day 
this  great  stretch  of  land  subdivided,  with  its  five  mountain  streams,  rolling  hills 
and  fertile  valleys,  will  afford  homes  for  thousands.  There  are  beautiful  waterfalls 
back  in  the  mountains. 

Templeton.  Is  a  lively  town  of  four  hundred  people  at  the  head  of  the  Salinas 
Valley.  Several  thousand  tons  of  wheat,  unexcelled  anywhere,  are  shipped  each 
year,  while  the  local  flour  mill  takes  care  of  its  share.  Crops  are  assured  by  an 
annual  rainfall  of  over  thirty  inches.  Wheat,  while  the  staple,  is  by  no  means  the 
overshadowing  product.  Templeton  is  one  of  the  chief  wood-shipping  points  in 
the  State,  several  hundred  cars  being  shipped  each  year. 

Among  the  fruits  grown  successfully  are  apples,  prunes,  peaches,  figs,  cherries, 
plums,  and  grapes.  Land  prices  are  marvelously  low,  fertility  considered,  running 
from  twenty  to  fifty  dollars  per  acre.  There  are  several  thousand  acres  of  paying 
vineyards  and  orchards,  one  apple  orchard  covering  two  hundred  acres. 

The  upper  Salinas  Valley  is  remarkable  as  a  place  for  poultry,  hogs,  and  live 
stock,  which  seem  here  to  be  particularly  favored  by  the  delightful  climate.  A 
rancher  may  pay  his  living  expenses  from  his  poultry  alone. 

Templeton  is  built  in  a  live-oak  park,  with  an  acre  of  beauty  in  the  center  reserved. 
It  has  a  fine  school-house  and  good  schools.  Excellent  roads  lead  into  the  mountain 
passes  and  neighboring  valleys.  We  follow  the  Salinas  River  another  five  miles 
and  then  come  upon  the  second  city  of  San  Luis  Obispo  County,  and  one  of  the 
most  famous  hot  springs  resorts  of  America. 

Paso  Robles  and  Paso  Robles  Hot  Springs.  Beautiful  El  Paso 
de  Robles,  the  pass  of  oaks,  is  a  charming  town  of  fifteen  hundred  people,  lying  be- 
tween the  Santa  Lucia  Mountains  to  the  west  and  the  main  coast  range  to  the  east  in 
the  upper  Salinas  Valley.  It  is  built  between  the  Salinas  River  bank  and  the  foot- 
hills of  the  Santa  Lucia.  The  city  is  amid  a  natural  oak  park.  In  i»s  center  is  a 
plaza  of  trees  and  flowers,  and  opposite  is  the  great  Hot  Springs  hotel. 


240  OVER    THE  RANGE 

The  Hotel  El  Paso  Robles  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  grounds.  It  is  a  three- 
story  brick  structure  and,  of  course,  has  all  modern  improvements.  The 
spacious  verandas  of  the  hotel,  unsurpassed  in  California,  are  an  enjoyable 
feature.  In  connection  with  the  hotel  are  run  the  wonderful  Paso  Robles  Hot 
Springs,  which  have  made  the  town  famous.  The  main  bath-house,  costing 
twenty-five  thousand  dollars,  is  near  the  hotel.  There  are  also  mud-baths  and  sand- 
baths  under  the  hotel  management.  People  suffering  from  rheumatism,  chronic 
and  inflammatory,  or  from  any  of  the  long  list  of  nervous,  circulatory,  and  skin  dis- 
orders, are  cured  here  so  readily  that  crutches  and  similar  badges  of  discourage- 
ment are  like  drugs  on  the  market  in  P?so  Robles — unnecessary.  There  is  a  resi- 
dent physician  to  take  charge  of  the  crutches. 

Paso  Robles  is  not  a  health-resort  only.  It  is  one  of  the  most  pleasant  pleasure 
places  ever  visited.  Quail,  rabbits,  wild  pigeons,  and  doves — it  is  the  most  notable 
dove  section  in  the  world — and  trou*  in  the  mountain  streams,  meet  sportsmen  more 
than  half-way.  What  J.  Ross  Browne  wrote  of  this  section  of  the  valley,  then  known 
as  Santa  Margarita,  is,  as  Charles  Howard  Shinn  has  said,  a  description  that  appeals 
as  true: 

"I  have  wandered  over  many  a  bright  and  beautiful  land,  but  never  have  I  seen 
a  country  so  richly  favored  by  nature  as  California,  and  never  a  more  lovely  valley 
than  Santa  Margarita,  in  the  whole  wide  world.  There  is  nothing  comparable  to 
the  mingled  wildness  and  repose  of  such  a  scene,  the  rich  and  glowing  sky,  the  illim- 
itable distance." 

Paso  Robles'  climate  is  of  such  healthful  character  that  doctors  depend  upon 
visitors.  The  midsummer  days  are  sometimes  rather  warm;  the  nights  are  inva- 
riably cool.  In  winter  frost  sometimes  comes.  No  germs  exist  here,  the  sulphur  in 
the  atmosphere  discouraging  th°m.  Fever  and  ague  die  on  the  road,  smallpox  would 
not  remain  over  night,  and  the  old  residents  have  no  such  word  as  malaria  in  their 
vocabulary. 

Commercially,  the  town  has  a  magnificent  territory  extending  twenty  miles  west- 
ward, sixty  east.  Paso  Robles  is  connected  by  stage  with  the  tributary  towns, 
Cholame,  Creston,  and  Shandon  to  the  east  and  Adelaide  to  the  west.  The  territory 
to  the  east  is  devoted  to  grain  and  stock;  to  the  west  quicksilver  mines  are  becoming 
industries  of  great  importance.  The  upper  Salinas  Valley  is  a  great  wheat  country, 
and  recently  from  Paso  Robles  alone  were  forwarded  nearly  fifteen  hundred  carloads 
of  wheat,  flour,  and  millstuffs.  Dairying,  fruit-growing,  poultry-farms,  wine-mak- 
ing, and  cattle  and  hog  raising  offer  good  returns.  Apples  and  pears  are  to  be  very 
profitable  crops.  The  Salinas  Valley  furnishes  an  unlimited  water-supply,  and 
while  the  annual  rainfall  is  always  sufficient,  if  at  the  right  time,  irrigation  is  so  easy 
and  inexpensive  that  the  scientific  use  of  water  through  that  channel  is  becoming 
more  and  more  popular.  Paso  Robles  has  a  high  school  and  lower  grades,  a  twenty- 
five-thousand-dollar  school-house,  churches,  fraternal  orders,  etc.  There  is  a  pro- 
gressive board  of  trade. 

Stlllta  Y.sal>el.  Is  a  magnificent  estate,  with  hills  and  lowlands,  canons  and 
mesa.  There  is  an  old  bungalow  there,  which  is  mostly  veranda  and  latticed  windows, 
and  hammocks,  where  the  sun  never  interferes  with  the  interior,  because  the  roses 
climb  everywhere  protectingly  in  the  way.  There  are  more  beautiful  rides  and 
drives  through  oak -dotted  uplands  and  unfenced  parks  than  the  most  energetic  will 
become  acquainted  with  in  a  month.     Then  there  is  the  lake. 

Lake  Ysabel  lies  a  little  way  from  the  farm-house,  a  pleasant  canon  walk.  Think 
of  a  lake,  an  actual  lake  of  mineral  water  such  as  you  pay  fifty  cents  a  quart  for 


242  OVER   THE  RANGE 

to  drink,  lying  in  a  beautiful  canon,  sufficiently  warm  to  go  bathing  in  in  mid-winter, 
and  no  different  in  mid-summer.  It's  unique,  a.  id  really  affords  a  plunge  that  has 
no  parallel.  Further  up  the  canon  are  the  great  springs,  the  largest  hot  springs  in 
California,  with  individual  tub-baths,  which  are  just  a  little  different  from  any  other- 
Standing  on  Ysabel  Summit  and  looking  out  over  the  five  hundred  square  miles 
of  valleys  and  rolling  hills,  of  mountain  ridges  and  river  sands,  seeing  in  the  fall  the 
russet  and  gold  of  autumn  ripened  among  the  oak-forests,  or  in  the  spring  the  vivid 
green  of  a  carpet  of  new  life  bounded  by  the  horizon  along  the  ridges,  one  must 
recognize  the  beauty  of  the  Upper  Salinas;  a:  vividly  recognize  it  as  its  clear  atmos- 
phere sets  forth,  photochrome  like,  its  wealth  of  color,  its  variety  of  detail,  and  it- 
bewildering  immensity. 

The  government  has  chosen  the  Nacimiento  Ranch  of  twenty  thousand  acres  as 
a  permanent  camp  and  manceuvering  ground  for  the  army  in  the  west.  The  site  is 
a  magnificent  one,  and  the  camp  will  be  another  attraction  of  the  towns  of  Paso 
Robles  and  San  Miguel.  After  Wellsona,  r  flag-station,  the  thriving  town  of  San 
Miguel  is  at  hand.  Hereabouts  we  may  see  the  great  combined  reapers  and  thresh- 
ers in  the  wheat-fields. 

Sail  Mig'liel .  San  Miguel  is  also  of  the  oaks,  and  shares  the  advantages  of  the 
Upper  Salinas  with  Templeton  and  Paso  Robles.  It  has  a  place  of  unusual  interest 
in  San  Miguel  Mission,  founded  in  1797,  by  Father  Lasuen,  one  of  the  Franciscan 
friars.  The  mission  is  built  to  withstand  the  centuries.  At  one  time  there  was  an 
aqueduct  eight  miles  long  and  fifteen-foot  adobe  wall  two  miles  long  surrounding 
the  buildings  and  plaza.  It  speaks  volumes  for  the  fertility  of  this  country,  when 
it  is  learned  that  within  twenty  years  these  peaceful  friars,  coming  unheralded  among 
the  savages,  had  livestock  under  the  care  of  the  mission  worth  over  three  million 
dollars  and  used  land  valued  at  ten  million  dollars. 

San'Miguel  is  a  shipping-point  for  wheat  and  flour,  like  Paso  Robles.  Its  popu- 
lation is  about  five  hundred,  and  its  future  is  very  bright.  There  are  many  beaun 
ful  trips  to  be  made  from  San  Miguel  into  Indian  Valley,  up  Nacimiento  and  San 
Antonio  rivers.     The  Improvement  Club  is  a  mine  of  information. 

Before  leaving  this  section,  mention  should  be  made  the  Carisa  plain  east  oi 
the  mountains  that  one  sees  eastward  from  the  train.  This  plateau  is  over  fourteen 
hundred  feet  in  average  elevation,  and  in  the  southwest  part  is  Painted  Rock, 
hollow  sandstone  hill  with  a  chamber  in  the  center  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet 
long  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  wide,  with  the  sky  for  a  roof.  The  United 
States  Bureau  of  Ethnology  has  dissertated  upon  the  wonderful  Indian  petroglyphics 
that  are  painted  in  red,  white,  and  black  upon  the  v.  dls  of  this  chamber,  and  arrived 
at  conclusions  equally  interesting  with  those  of  Mr.  Pickwick's  learned  sociecv 
They  are  worthy  of  a  visit  from  either  Paso  Robles  or  San  Miguel. 

MONTEREY   COUNTY. 

Bradley,  San  Ardo,  and  San  Lncas.  Are  business  centers,  with  flag 
stations  of  Wunpost  and  Upland  alternating,  of  a  country  so  rich  that  it  would  make 
the  Blue  Nile  country  blue  indeed  to  know  of  it.  Needs  more  extensive  irrigation 
systems,  because  the  rainfall  is  irregular,  though  the  inhabitants  are  prosperous. 
Some  of  them,  with  an  awakened  ambition  to  become  millionaires,  are  now  irrigat- 
ing. The  people  hereabout  sell  several  million  pounds  of  wheat  and  large 
quantities  of  butter,  eggs,  and  wool,  and  Angora  goats.  They  ship  several 
trains  of  cattle,  and,  like  the  older  towns  on  both  sides,  have  good  asphalt,  oil 


TO   THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  243 

and  coal  indications  awaiting  enterprise.  The  promising  Stone  Canon  Coal 
Mine  has  a  ledge  of  fine  steam  coal  sixteen  feet  thick,  and  of  unmeasured 
depth,  twenty-five  miles  northeast  of  Bradley.  Oil  experts  predict  that  this 
will  become  one  of  the  great  oil  sections  of  California.  Nearly  a  thousand 
square  miles  of  territory  are  tributary  to  these  stations.  Irrigation  and  extensive 
farming  will  increase  the  products  and  land  values  hereabout  tenfold.  The  climate 
is  delightful,  never  oppressively  hot  in  the  summer,  and  never  very  chill  in  the  winter. 
The  old  inhabitants  neither  die  nor  move  away,  but  remain  to  speak  well  of  the 
climate  and  the  hard  winter  they  spent  when  they  went  East  in  '57. 

Sail  Antonio  Mission.  West  of  San  Lucas  twelve  miles  (but  reached  more 
easily  by  stage  from  Kings  City)  is  the  beautiful  Jolon  Valley,  a  fine  fruit  section, 
and  beyond  the  wonderful  San  Antonio  country,  where  the  discerning  eyes  of  the 
Mission  Fathers  saw  so  fair  a  spot  that  they  founded  a  mission  there  July  14,  1771, 
when  Boston  was  yet  paying  tribute  to  the  king.  The  mission  is  crumbling  sadly 
because  of  lack  of  care.  Through  the  rich  valley  runs  the  broad  San  Antonio  River, 
joining  the  Salinas  near  Bradley.  Dr.  A.  A.  Wheeler  describes  the  mountains  back 
of  the  mission  as  among  the  most  interesting,  scenically  and  geologically,  in 
America. 

King's  City.  This  station  has  a  large  tributary  area,  with  a  great  deal  of  fertile 
land  yet  unimproved.  Here  an  irrigation  system  is  making  excellent  headway.  It  is 
the  forerunner  of  an  immense  irrigation  system  with  a  reservoir  in  the  mountains  to 
the  west.  Kings  City  speaks  of  the  wealth  of  its  surrounding  country  in  trainload  after 
trainload  of  barley,  wheat,  sugar-beets,  hogs,  cattle,  and  sheep.  Land  under  the 
irrigation  system  draining  from  the  Salinas  River  sells  for  fifty  dollars  an  acre  and 
upward;  hill  land,  to  be  very  valuable  in  a  few  years,  is  held  at  fifteen  or  sixteen  dol- 
lars per  acre.  The  pleasant  climate  is  very  beneficial  for  lung  trouble  sufferers. 
There  are  many  mountain  resorts  near  by.  There  are  good  hotels,  schools,  and 
churches,  and  several  fraternal  orders.  Almost  any  farm  product  can  be  produced 
in  this  rich  country,  but  scientific  farming  demands  that  it  shall  be  under  irrigation. 
The  winters  are  no  colder  than  those  of  Southern  California;  the  summer  days  get 
the  Monterey  Bay  breezes,  and  are  pleasant. 

Metz.  Is  a  grain,  beet,  and  cattle-shipping  station,  growing  every  year  in  im- 
portance. 

SolccUlfl .  A  town  of  two  hundred  people,  twenty-five  miles  south  of  Salinas, 
with  a  good  hotel,  schools,  and  the  ruins  of  the  old  famous  Soledad  Mission.  This 
mission  was  founded  in  1791,  and  is  one  of  the  oases  provided  by  the  padres  for 
sundown  stops  between  San  Diego  and  San  Francisco.  Soledad  is  rich  in  its  pro- 
duction of  sugar-beets,  potatoes,  beans,  alfalfa,  and  onions,  with  forty  thousand  acres 
of  wheat  and  barley  as  a  mainstay.  Ruins  of  an  aqueduct  eight  miles  long,  from 
the  Arroyo  Seco,  built  by  the  Franciscans  a  hundred  years  ago,  are  yet  visible,  a 
lesson  for  the  residents  of  to-day,  who  have  to  learn  well  the  use  of  an  irrigation 
ditch.     Near  by  is  the  Salvation  Army  colony. 

Three  hours  east  of  Soledad  are  the  Pinnacles;  to  the  south  is  the  romantic 
Arroyo  Seco,  with  its  trout  and  quail  and  deer  and  mountain  scenery,  awaiting 
sportsman  and  naturalist.  Off  in  the  Santa  Lucia  Mountains  is  a  wilderness  of 
beautiful  country,  named  La  Calera  by  the  Spaniards  and  known  to  us  Americans 
as  the  Lost  Valley.  In  beauty  and  grandeur  of  scenery  it  has  few  equals,  even  in 
California.     The  best  known  resort  near  Soledad  is  Paraiso  Springs. 

The  Pinnacles.     Fourteen  miles  east  of  Soledad  are  The  Pinnacles. 

Vancouver,  the  famous  voyaeer.  was  sent  out  by  the  British  Government  a  few 


244  OVER    THE  RANGE 

years  after  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  war  to  explore  the  west  coast  of  California. 
He  spent  several  years  on  the  coast,  and  by  order  of  the  king,  his  voyages  were 
published  about  the  beginning  of  the  last  century. 

In  these  old  volumes  is  an  engraving  of  a  castle-like  mountain.  The  text 
describes  a  wonderful  mountain  near  Monterey,  which  resembled,  with  its  pin- 
nacles, domes,  and  spires,  an  old  castle.  It  impressed  Vancouver  as  the  most 
remarkable  scenic  feature  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

A  visit  reveals  one  of  the  greatest  natural  wonders  of  America.  Some  ten 
square  miles  of  volcanic  mountain  is  riven  and  cleft  into  great  domes  and  turrets 
of  rocks  surmounted  with  spires  and  pinnacles.  Many  of  the  gorges  are  roofed 
over  by  immense  masses  of  conglomerate  two  hundred  feet  or  more  in  each  dimen- 
sion falling  from  the  precipice  edges  above.  Here  are  sheer  walls  of  fifteen  hundred 
feet,  great  caves,  and  curious  shapes  of  conglomerate  rock  similar  to  the  Colorado 
Garden  of  the  Gods. 

The  Pinnacles  may  be  reached  via  Hollister  and  Tres  Pinos  from  the  north  or 
eastward  from  Soledad.     The  wagon  roads  are  good. 

ParaiSO  Springs.  This  Carlsbad  of  America,  with  its  arsenic,  soda,  and  sul- 
phur springs,  is  an  hour's  ride  from  Soledad,  among  the  pines  and  oaks  of  the  Santa 
Lucia  Mountains  between  Soledad  and  the  sea.  The  springs  cure  almost  every- 
thing, the  prices  are  reasonable,  and  the  accommodations  excellent.  It  is  a  fine 
place  to  go  to  get  well,  and  better,  if  well,  to  have  a  good  time.  Here  is  mountain- 
climbing,  fishing,  deer  and  quail  hunting.  Paraiso  has  its  own  fine  orange  orchard, 
berry  farm,  dairy,  apple  orchard,  etc.,  and  hundreds  of  people  spend  a  month  here 
every  year. 

Gonzales.  Tributary  to  this  town  of  five  hundred  people  are  sixty  thousand 
acres  of  rich  land.  The  place  has  three  churches,  excellent  schools,  a  bank,  and 
several  large  business  houses.  Fruit-growing  is  a  remunerative  industry.  Belle- 
fleur  and  Newtown  pippins  among  apples,  and  all  varieties  of  prunes,  pears, 
peaches,  apricots,  berries,  cherries,  and  plums  are  excellent  bearers.  Sugar-beets 
and  potatoes  have  yielded  large  returns  in  the  last  two  years,  and  dairying  perhaps 
is  at  present  the  best  paying  industry  of  all.  Cheese  and  butter  from  alfalfa  grown 
on  river  lands,  constitute  large  daily  shipments.  Here,  as  elsewhere  along  the 
entire  Salinas  Valley,  irrigation  by  using  the  inexhaustible  supply  of  sub-surface 
water  of  the  Salinas  River  is  a  simple  proposition.  The  Gonzales  Water  Company 
has  found  within  thirty  feet  of  the  surface  an  immeasurable  supply  of  water,  and  the 
trade  winds  and  the  windmills  do  the  rest. 

Cliualar.  Chualar  has  a  tributary  section  of  twenty  thousand  acres,  of  which 
sixteen  thousand  belong  to  one  man.  The  soil  is  of  great  richness,  just  as  it  is  else- 
where in  the  Salinas  Valley,  and  only  subdivision  and  irrigation  are  necessary  to 
give  a  comfortable  living  to  hundreds  of  families  on  twenty  to  thirty  acre  holdings. 
The  climate  is  excellent.  Eighty-seven  degrees  is  the  summer's  maximum,  and 
thirty  degrees  above,  the  winter's  minimum;  but  the  present  system  of  tenant  farm- 
ing in  this  beautiful  locality  does  not  tend  toward  permanent  improvements. 
Chualar  ships  a  hundred  cars  of  products  annually.  The  schools  are  good,  old 
settlers  are  numerous  and  very  healthy. 

We  ride  through  the  lower  valley  into  Salinas,  through  Spence,  a  barley-shipping 
point,  and  Spreckels  Junction,  whence  a  three-mile  branch  goes  to  the  door  of  the 
great  sugar  factory. 

Salinas.  The  metropolis  of  the  lower  Salinas  Valley,  and  the  county-seat  of 
Monterey  County,  is  charmingly  located  between  Gabilan  and  Santa  Lucia  Ranges 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  245 

<>t  the  Coast  Mountains  ten  miles  from  Monterey  Bay,  which  marks  the  end  of  the 
valley.  Its  population  is  three  thousand  five  hundred,  it  lias  three  of  the  best 
hotels  in  the  state,  a  good  lire  department,  a  main  street  lined  with  brick  business 
houses  that  would  be  a  credit  to  a  town  of  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  good  street 
pavements  and  sidewalks,  three  prosperous  banks,  gas  and  electric  works,  opera- 
house,  etc.  The  fraternal  orders  are  very  strong,  and  there  are  seven  church  build- 
ings. The  Salinas  high  school  is  accredited  to  the  State  University.  Twenty 
teachers  point  the  way  of  progress.  The  town  is  a  train-terminal,  and  the  railroad 
payroll  is  large.  The  houses  are  pretty  and  well  kept,  with  an  amazing  wealth  of 
flowers. 

The  climate  of  Salinas  is  unsurpassed  by  that  of  any  other  section.  The  winter 
minimum  rarely  touches  the  frost  line,  and  the  summer  maximum  falls  short  of 
ninety  degrees.  Proximity  to  Monterey  Bay,  writh  its  superb  evenness  of  temperature, 
is  responsible. 

Salinas  is  a  place  of  interest  to  tourists,  and  is  attracting  much  attention.  A  new 
and  charming  fifteen-mile  drive  to  Mt.  Toro  is  being  laid  out.  From  Mt.  Toro  one 
may  look  down  upon  the  green  Salinas  Valley,  with  its  silver  thread  of  a  river  wind- 
ing northward,  and  turning,  watch  the  blue  waters  of  Monterey  Bay  break  in  their 
crescent  line  upon  the  wooded  shores.  A  hundred  and  fifty  miles  eastward  the  snow 
roofs  of  the  Sierras  glisten,  and  off  to  the  south  peaks  lean  upon  peaks,  mountain 
walls  terrace  one  another,  and  green  valleys  show  gayly  amid  the  darker  foliage  of 
the  shadowing  hills.  Another  charming  drive  is  to  Watsonville,  and  there  are  many 
others  also;  but  of  all,  the  finest  is  to  Del  Monte  and  Monterey.  Among  the  most 
pleasant  trips  in  the  Coast  Line  country  is  the  bicycle  ride  from  Salinas  to  Del 
Monte.  The  way  is  over  a  good  road  across  the  Salinas  Valley,  by  the  Spreckles 
factor}',  over  the  river,  and  then  between  oak  and  pine  and  redwood  covered  moun- 
tains down  to  the  shores  of  Monterey  Bay,  with  such  changing  vistas,  by  such 
templed  hills,  underneath  arching  woods,  around  the  mountain  brows — mountain, 
valley,  and  bay  flashing  upon  the  view — that  one  carries  away  an  impression  in- 
effaceable as  it  is  indescribable.  Visitors  can  well  afford  to  stop  off  at  Salinas 
and  reach  the  famous  Del  Monte,  Monterey,  and  Pacific  Grove  over  this  charm- 
ing road. 

The  country  around  Salinas  is  so  productive,  that  it  may  be  well  to  prepare  your 
mind  with  a  few  figures.  The  Spreckels  Sugar  Factory,  three  miles  from  town, 
crushed  in  1901  two  hundred  and  seventy-one  thousand  three  hundred  and  twenty- 
two  tons  of  sugar-beets,  of  which  one  hundred  and  forty-one  thousand  two  hundred 
and  eighty  tons  were  grown  immediately  tributary  to  Salinas.  Here  is  one  of  the 
large  flour  mills  of  California,  shipping  by  the  carload  every  day  to  China  and  points 
nearer  by.  Train  load  after  train  load  of  barley  and  potatoes  is  forwarded .  Among 
the  carload  products  may  be  mentioned  cattle,  potatoes,  hogs,  hay,  oats,  onions, 
horses,  goats;  and  from  Spreckels  sugar,  beet-pulp,  apples,  and  molasses. 

Many  potato  growers  in  the  Salinas  and  Pajaro  valleys  have  cleared  from 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  to  two  hundred  dollars  per  acre.  The  sugar-beet 
farmers  received  at  the  factor}-  four  dollars  and  fifty  cents  per  ton,  the  price 
being  fixed  in  advance.  The  yield  ranged  from  eight  to  thirty  tons  per  .:>  re, 
the  average  being  thirteen,  so  that,  investment  and  assurance  of  returns  considered, 
the  results  to  the  farmers  are  very  satisfactory.  The  cattle-owners  are  making 
money  rapidly,  and,  as  elsewhere,  the  dairy  farmers  have  more  money  than  they 
know  how  to  invest.  A  Salinas  banker  said  that — and  he  knows.  Of  course  the 
vegetable  returns  last  season  wen-  exceptional,  but  no  potato-grower  is  apt  to  leave 


246  OVER   THE  RANGE 

that  business  for  any  other  very  soon.  The  Salinas  Burbank  potato  commands  the 
highest  price  in  every  market  in  which  it  has  been  sold. 

Deciduous  fruits  and  berries  do  well  here,  and  are  attracting  much  attention. 
Apples,  pears,  quinces,  plums,  cherries,  nectarines,  prunes,  figs,  almonds,  walnuts, 
raspberries,  strawberries,  blackberries,  currants,  etc.,  are  being  grown  with  profit. 
The  average  rainfall  at  Salinas  during  the  last  twenty  years  has  been  fifteen  inches, 
the  minimum  nine  inches  and  the  maximum  twenty-one.  Irrigation  is  practiced 
some  with  such  results  that  an  immense  reservoir  is  soon  to  be  constructed  in  the 
mountains. 

Tassajara  Springs.  Among  the  charming  mountain  resorts  near  Salinas 
are  Tassajara  Springs.  They  are  reached  by  stage  from  Salinas.  These  eighteen 
mineral  springs,  varying  from  cold  water  to  that  of  one  hundred  and  forty-five 
degrees,  are  pronounced  by  the  Smithsonian  Institute  equal  to  any  known. 

The  springs  are  in  the  midst  of  a  wilderness  above  that  superb  scenic  river,  the 
Arroyo  Seco,  one  of  the  best  trout  streams  in  the  state.  The  hunting  in  this 
wildest  part  of  the  Coast  Range  is  also  excellent.  The  two-story  stone  hotel  fur- 
nishes good  accommodations.  The  location,  eight  miles  from  the  ocean,  sixteen 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  surrounded  by  peaks  and  crags, 
forest-covered,  speaks  for  the  climate.  A  road  from  a  nearer  point  on  the  railroad 
s  projected,  but  as  a  matter  of  fact  the  wildness  and  comparative  isolation  of  Tas- 
sajara, writh  its  hundred  or  more  guests,  are  but  added  charms  to  the  mountain  lover. 

Spreekels  Sugar  Refinery,  three  miles  west  of  Salinas  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  near  the  foot  of  the  mountains;  the  most  prominent  object  on  the  level  floor  of  the 
valley  is  this  great  refinery,  largest  in  the  world,  crushing  in  the  busy  season  three  thou- 
sand tons  of  beets  daily.  The  works  are  models  of  ingenuity.  The  factory  has  an 
interior  electric  railway,  which  will  serve  to  illustrate  the  scientific  nature  of  its  equip- 
ment. Cars  run  automatically  to  chutes,  stop  automatically,  and  enter  an  elevator, 
and  are  taken  thence  automatically  to  another  floor,  where  they  leave  the  elevator 
of  their  own  accord,  and  automatically  dispose  of  their  loads  to  the  proper  place, 
returning  automatically  by  another  elevator  to  renew  the  trip.  These  intelligent 
machines  require  the  services  of  only  one  man  to  see  that  the  tracks  are  not  blocked 
by  sugar,  which  may  spill  overboard.  There  is  a  model  town,  school,  and  post-office 
in  connection  with  the  factory.  A  narrow-gauge  railway  to  Watsonville  and  a 
Southern  Pacific  spur  provide  transportation  facilities. 

North  of  Salinas  we  pass  through  a  vegetable  and  dairy  country  of  exceeding 
rchness  along  the  great  Elkhorn  Slough,  a  famous  place  for  ducks.  This  is  the 
lowland  of  the  coast  section  back  of  Monterey,  and  near  here  the  Salinas  River  from 
the  south,  and  the  Pajaro  from  the  north  join  the  ocean. 

CastrOY'ille.  The  junction  of  the  main  line  and  the  Monterey  Branch, 
three  miles  from  Monterey  Bay  (Moss  Landing  beach).  Two  miles  northeast  of 
town  are  the  mysterious  lakes  of  Espinosa  and  Merritt.  No  one  knows  whence  these 
beautiful  lakes  draw  their  water  supply,  but  they  are  pleasure  places  of  much  value 
to  boaters,  fishers,  and  hunters.  Castroville  has  twelve  hundred  people,  several 
churches,  a  good  hotel,  fraternal  orders,  'good  schools,  an  excellent  creamery,  and  is 
the  shipping-point  for  large  quantities  of  potatoes,  onions,  sugar-beets,  dairy  produce 
and  poultry,  hay,  grain,  beans,  peas,  and  shortly  will  be  an  important  apple  center. 
The  surrounding  country  is  of  exceeding  richness,  and  never  lacks  for  rainfall. 

Morocojo  and  Xeponset.  On  the  way  to  Monterey  we  pass  unpreten- 
tious Morocojo,  which,  however,  is  in  the  center  of  the  vegetable  country,  and  in  that 
line  is  nearly  first  among  shipping-points.     The  train  runs  along  underneath  the 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  M7 

shadow  of  an  ocean-bluff,  and  we  glide  suddenly  into  the  grounds  of  famous  Del 
Monte. 

Del  Monte  The  builders  of  Del  Monte  had  the  unrivaled  attractions 
of  California  to  choose  among,  and  they  placed  their  faith  lure  by  the  shores 
of  Monterey  Bay,  where  four  hundred  years  ago  civilization  first  sought  a 
landing-place  on  our  Western  shore.  A  climate  of  perennial  spring,  river  and 
forest,  ocean  and  bay,  lake  and  mountain,  wild  cliffs  and  gentle  beaches,  a 
wealth  of  strange  sea  things,  and  of  the  life  of  the  wilderness,  and  withal  charm- 
ing historic  association  and  the  tales  of  tradition;  these  they  found  and  encom- 
passed into  one  principality,  directed  nature,  encouraged  her,  added  where 
addition  meant  charm,  lost  none  of  the  grace  of  wildness,  but  gained  the  beauty  of 
accessibility.  Then  they  built  a  palace  of  delight,  where  those  who  live  out-of-doors 
might  have  a  shelter  within  walls  equally  pleasing,  equally  enchanting.  To  wield 
a  wand  to  create  such  an  abiding  place  was  most  difficult,  but  Hotel  Del  Monte,  with 
its  magnificent  appointments,  its  great  verandas,  parlors,  halls,  recreation-rooms, 
its  magnificent  suites,  its  own  lighting,  heating,  and  water  plants,  its  artistic  harmony 
in  colors  and  management  everywhere,  meets  the  needs  so  that  no  one  returning  from 
sunset  on  the  shore  with  the  forest  of  Del  Monte  sighing  a  lullaby  need  go  indoors 
regretful  because  of  repellent  walls,  or  lack  of  cheery  invitation.  The  fireplaces  at 
Del  Monte  roar  and  crackle  and  sparkle  as  if  there  were  a  smiling  snowstorm  with- 
out; the  high  ceilings  are  lost  in  shadow;  outline  of  window  and  door  are  gone;  softly 
and  dreamily  this  place  greets  one  by  firelight 

Becoming  more  material  and  specific,  it  should  be  noted  that  Del  Monte  has  a 
fine  club-house,  a  magnificent  new  bathing  pavilion,  the  best  polo-grounds  in 
America,  tennis-courts  and  golf-courses  on  which  championship  matches  are  played, 
glass-bottomed  boats  to  view  the  wonders  of  the  ocean,  a  fine  lake  for  boating,  a 
mysterious  maze  for  those  who  wish  to  lose  themselves,  an  Arizona  garden  growing 
everything  desert-like,  except  Indian  warwhoops  and  mirages,  flowers,  walks,  drives, 
groves  unnumbered,  and  the  magnificent  seventeen-mile  drive. 

The  drive  is  macadamized  throughout.  It  is  through  the  historic  town  of 
Monterey,  along  the  shore  to  Pacific  Grove,  westwardly  to  Carmel  Bay  over  the 
the  ridge  and  again  through  Monterey.  It  is  a  wonderful  drive,  and  only  a  few  of 
the  principal  sights  can  be  mentioned — the  monument  in  honor  of  Father  Serra,  the 
old  lighthouse  on  Point  Pinos,  the  great  pines  of  the  ridge,  Cypress  Point  and  its 
wonderful  cypress-trees,  the  seal-rookeries,  Moss  Beach,  beautiful  Carmel  Bay, 
Carmel  Mission  (a  side-trip),  and  the  quaint  town  of  Monterey. 

To  rest  at  Del  Monte  is  ecstasy,  but  for  those  who  would  play  there  are  games  of 
tennis,  croquet,  golf,  and  polo;  riding,  driving,  fishing,  sailing,  and  special  social  fes- 
tivities. The  domain  of  Del  Monte  includes  some  wild  and  almost  unexplored 
mountains,  with  fine  trout-streams,  where  the  sportsman  may  spend  happy  days. 

Del  Monte  must,  of  course,  be  taken  to  be  enjoyed;  it  does  not  grow  by  descrip- 
tion nor  cast  its  charm  through  words. 

Both  the  Southern  Pacific  and  an  electric  line  connect  Del  Monte  with  Monterey 
and  Pacific  Grove. 

Monterey.  One  mile  from  Del  Monte  and  we  are  in  Monterey.  It  is  a  city  of 
quaint  and  pleasant  homes,  of  old-time  adobes  a::d  of  historic  buildings  and  monu- 
ments. The  town  of  two  thousand  people  lies  in  a  hollow  between  the  wooded  hills 
to  the  west  and  Del  Monte  to  the  east.  The  place  is  progressive,  with  fine  streets, 
schools,  electric-fight  plant,  good  water  system,  bank,  park,  etc.  It  has  an  excellent 
beach. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  249 

Historically,  Monterey  is  the  most  interesting  point  on  the  coast.  On  the  first 
of  September,  1840,  a  convention  met  here  and  framed  a  State  constitution  under 
which  Peter  H.  Burnett  was  elected  governor  in  the  following  December.  The 
building  in  which  the  convention  met  is  now  used  as  a  hall. 

Monterey  was  California's  first  capital.  Here  were  the  first  brick  and  wood 
buildings,  the  first  post-office  and  the  first  theater  in  California. 

The  Bay  of  Monterey  is  second  only  to  San  Francisco  as  a  harbor,  and  through 
that  Monterey  is  yet  to  have  an  era  of  great  importance.  The  scenic  and  climatic- 
attractions  of  this  vicinity  are  so  unusual  and  so  famous  that  the  material  side  of 
affairs  has  been  the  subject  of  little  comment.  Yet  Monterey  exports  many  train- 
loads  of  dairy  products,  potatoes,  beans,  sugar-beets,  honey,  fruit,  and  cattle  every 
year.  It  is  the  most  important  tan-bark  shipping  place  on  the  coast.  The  canning 
and  drying  of  fish  and  abalone  are  important  industries.  The  back  country  is 
chiefly  "down  the  coast"  in  that  sixty  miles  of  semi-wilderness,  valleys,  and  moun- 
tains south  of  Monterey  along  the  ocean.  The  rich  Carmel  Valley  is  responsible  for 
a  large  part  of  Monterey's  shipments,  but  the  country  as  a  whole  holds  its  resources 
practically  undeveloped.  Fishing  and  hunting  in  such  a  well-watered,  well-tim- 
bered country  are,  of  course,  good.  The  government  has  recently  established  a 
military  post  here,  with  building  accommodations  for  several  thousand  troops. 

Pacific  Grove.  Pacific  Grove  is  on  the  shores  of  the  bay  two  miles  ocean- 
ward  from  Monterey.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the  branch  line,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
popular  of  the  higher-class,  inexpensive  seaside  resorts  of  Califorina.  It  is  the  annual 
meeting-place  of  many  educational,  religious,  and  fraternal  societies.  The  town  is 
built  on  a  wooded  promontory,  commanding  an  excellent  view  of  Monterey  Bay  and 
the  Pacific  ocean. 

The  Chautauqua  has  assembled  here  annually  for  the  last  twenty  years,  and  it  is 
a  favorite  Methodist  resort.  There  are  no  saloons.  All  the  leading  churches  have 
strong  organizations.  "Housekeeping  cottages"  are  plentiful,  and  rent  reasonable. 
It  is  an  ideal  family  resort,  summer  and  winter.  The  town  with  its  permanent  popu- 
lation of  two  thousand  people,  has  all  urban  conveniences.  It  is  very  well  built 
indeed,  and  has  good  hotels,  boarding-houses,  and  bath-houses.  The  six  miles  of 
ocean  front  between  Pacific  Grove  and  Carmel  Bay  include  many  famous  points 
of  interest — the  lighthouse,  Lake  Majella,  Moss  Beach,  the  clashing  currents  at 
Point  Joe,  Seal  Rock,  with  its  diving  inhabitants,  and  Cypress  Point,  with  its  rare 
cypress  grove,  the  only  one  on  the  American  continent.  These  "Cedars  of  Lebanon,-' 
wind-swept,  stand  protectingly  together,  facing  the  stormblows  of  the  Pacific  now 
as  unflinchingly  as  they  have  for  the  past  thousand  years.  These  are  all  on  the 
seventeen-mile  drive,  and  beyond  the  cypress  grove  the  road  leads  out  upon  a  cliff 
high  above  the  beautiful  Carmel  Bay.  A  short  side-trip  takes  one  to  the  famous 
Carmel  Mission,  now  one  hundred  and  thirty  years  old. 

Pacific  Grove  and  Monterey  have  glass-bottomed  boats,  through  which  to  study 
the  wonderful  life  of  Monterey  Bay.  The  former  is  the  site  of  the  Hopkins  Seaside 
Laboratory,  where  students  gather  from  all  parts  of  the  country  to  study  marine 
life.  It  is  the  result  of  exhaustive  investigations  that  proved  Monterey  Bay  to  haw- 
greater  variety  of  sea-life  than  any  other  body  of  water  in  the  world.  Fishing  and 
bathing  are  excellent.  There  are  times  when  the  fish  in  the  bay  are  so  plentiful 
that  they  may  be  scooped  in  by  hand.  Monterey  Bay  is  the  only  regularly  sched- 
uled stopping-point  for  whalers  en  route  between  the  Arctics  and  the  Tropics.  El 
Carmelo  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  House  are  resort  hotels.  Del  Monte,  Monterey,  and 
Pacific  Grove — there  is  no  pleasing  him  who  is  not  satisfied    with  their  offerings. 


250  OVER   THE  RANGE 


SANTA   CRUZ   FROM   THE   BROAD-GAUGE   LINE. 

Returning  to  the  main  Coast  Line,  ten  miles  from  Castroville  we  arrive  at  Pajaro, 
or,  as  it  is  now  called,  East  Watsonville.  It  is  the  junction  of  the  Santa  Cruz  branch 
with  the  main  line,  and  being  but  a  mile  to  the  city  of  Watsonville  is  a  part  of  that 
city  commercially,  and  one  of  its  two  stations. 

The  local  branch  to  Santa  Cruz  is  twenty  miles  in  length,  touching  first  the  city 
of  Watsonville. 

Watsonville  and  Pajaro  Valley.  Watsonville  is  the  commercial 
center  of  one  of  the  most  wonderful  valleys  in  the  world.  It  is  a  small  valley,  as 
valleys  go  in  California,  extending  from  the  shores  of  Monterey  Bay  to  the  foot  of 
the  Gabilan  Mountains,  with  a  level  area  of  perhaps  fifty  square  miles.  If,  however, 
there  is  any  more  productive  soil  in  America,  the  returns  are  not  in.  The  Pajaro 
is  the  center  of  the  apple  industry  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 

But  the  Pajaro  Valley  is  rich,  and  not  alone  in  apples.  Its  sugar-beet  crop, 
averaging  nearly  twenty  tons  to  the  acre,  and  worth  at  the  factory  four  dollars  and 
fifty  cents  per  ton,  amounts  to  seventy-five  thousand  tons  annually.  There  are 
some  thirty-five  hundred  acres  of  potatoes  and  onions  in  the  Pajaro  Valley,  and  the 
section  immediately  south  near  the  shores  of  Monterey  Bay,  and  last  season  almost 
fabulous  returns  were  reaped  in  a  harvest  of  high  prices — as  high  as  two  hundred 
dollars  per  acre.  The  berries  of  the  Pajaro  Valley  are  one  of  the  best  results  of 
intensive  cultivation  in  the  state.  Last  year's  berry  crop  exceeded  over  four  hun- 
dred carloads;  in  addition  to  these  commodities  there  were  shipments  of  pears, 
apricots,  prunes,  beans,  hay,  lumber,  hops,  and  oats  in  considerable  quantities. 

Watsonville  is,  of  course,  as  the  center  of  such  a  valley,  one  of  the  most  prosper- 
ous towns  in  the  state.  The  climate  is  similar  to  that  of  Monterey,  and  Watson- 
ville is  a  delightful  place  in  which  to  live.  Its  seaside  resort  is  Moss  Landing,  a  few 
miles  distant,  where  there  is  a  fine  beach.  Watsonville  has  the  best  of  schools  and 
churches  and  commercial  houses  that  will  compare  favorably  with  those  of  large 
cities.  Of  course  sewers,  light,  etc.,  are  well  looked  after.  The  business  part  of 
town  always  impresses  one  with  its  unusual  activity.  There  is  a  fine  public  square 
in  the  center  and  many  handsome  buildings  on  the  main  street.  Residence  build- 
ing at  present  is  very  active. 

Watsonville  has  a  large  sugar  factory  operated  jointly  with  the  one  at  Spreckles. 
It  also  has  lumber  mills,  evaporators,  foundries,  etc.,  and  a  company  has  been 
organized  to  start  a  cannery. 

The  Shore  Trip  to  Santa  Cruz.  The  ride  from  Watsonville  to  Santa 
Cruz  is  a  beautiful  one,  a  great  part  of  the  way  being  along  the  cliffs  of  Monterey 
Bay  in  full  view  of  that  historic  and  beautiful  body  of  water.  To  the  right  is  0 
range  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains,  with  fertile  fields  and  orchards  in  the  foreground. 
Through  the  car-windows  is  given  a  changing  panorama  of  wooded  headlands,  the 
waters  of  the  bay,  the  peninsula  beyond,  the  beaches  surf-margined,  and  across  the 
way  the  arroyos  of  woodland  streams. 

Aptos.  Once  a  famous  resort  of  Monterey  Bay,  but  now  sleeping  through  the 
summers.  The  cottages  are  filled  by  people  who  want  peace  and  quietude.  It  is  a 
favorite  resort  of  artists  seeking  the  picturesque  in  mountains  and  shores.  Back 
of  Aptos  is  one  of  the  Spreckels  estates,  the  beautiful  Aptos  Ranch.  The  mountains 
have  lost  most  of  their  timber,  but  are  yet  haunts  of  campers  and  sportsmen.  Large 
quantities  of  wood  and  a  great  deal  of  fruit  are  shipped  hence. 


SANTA  CRUZ   MOUNTAINS. 


252  OVER    THE  RANGE 

Opal.  A  picturesque  point,  shipping-place  for  a  large  lumber  company,  the 
mountains  to  the  back  of  the  station  providing  much  timber  and  wood. 

Capitola.  One  of  the  best  known  of  California  summer  resorts,  well  con- 
ducted and  increasing  in  popularity  year  by  year,  the  records  showing  an  increase 
of  travelers  every  season. 

Capitola  is  at  the  mouth  of  Soquel  Canon,  partly  on  the  beach  and  partly  on  the 
wooded  meadow  at  the  back  of  it.  It  is  a  resort  and  a  resort  only.  The  rows  of 
cottages,  vine  and  flower-clad,  amongst  the  trees,  are  for  summer  pleasure-seekers; 
so  is  the  dancing-pavilion,  with  the  stage,  the  pleasure-wharf,  the  grove  of  quaint 
oaks,  the  well-kept  beach  with  its  southern  exposure,  and  the  fine  hotel. 

The  climate  is  most  delightful  the  year  round,  and  many  of  the  pleasure-seekers 
own  their  homes  here,  coming  and  going  as  inclination  suggests;  fishing,  boating, 
bathing,  riding,  clam-bakes,  dances,  theatricals,  mountain-climbs,  golf,  tennis,  etc., 
take  up  the  time  of  the  energetic. 

An  electric  line  runs  to  Santa  Cruz,  whence  special  Southern  Pacific  trains  are 
run  on  midsummer  nights  to  the  Big  Trees. 

Sailta  Cruz.  The  city  of  the  holy  cross  is  at  the  northern  end  of  Monterey 
Bay  on  a  picturesque  headland,  where  it  climbs  on  terraced  hills  up  toward  the 
blue  peak  of  Loma  Prieta  rising  four  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  the  city 
by  the  sea. 

Santa  Cruz  is  one  of  the  prettiest,  best  built,  best  governed,  and  most  pictur- 
esquely located  cities  in  the  United  States.  Few  indeed  can  compare  with  it.  Santa 
Cruz  City  was  the  first  in  its  size  on  the  coast  to  own  an  electric-lighting  plant,  sewer 
system,  water-works,  and  a  free  library.  The  city  has  nine  churches,  with  good 
edifices,  eight  public  schools,  with  property  valued  at  one  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand dollars,  high  school  with  graduates  accredited  to  the  State  University,  and 
several  private  schools.  The  assessed  valuation  of  this  city  of  seven  thousand 
people  is  about  five  million  dollars,  and  its  bank  deposits  nearly  two  million  dol- 
lars. It  has  seventy-two  miles  of  bituminous  sidewalks,  six  miles  of  paved  streets, 
thirty  miles  more  graded,  and  an  eight-mile  electric  railway.  The  streets  are 
sprinkled  by  sea-water  pumped  into  a  tank  by  a  wave-motor,  a  local  invention. 
The  city  water  supply  comes  from  mountain  springs.  The  homes  of  this  remarkable 
city  "of  endless  summer  with  no  last  rose"  are,  of  course,  beautiful. 

Amusements  about  Santa  Cruz  are  too  numerous  to  describe  fully — out-of-door 
games  of  all  kinds  in  summer  or  winter,  yachting,  rowing,  swimming,  fishing, 
driving,  loafing  in  the  flower-gardens,  whipping  any  one  of  the  twenty  good  trout- 
streams  in  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains — surely  there  is  enough  to  do  in  the  city  of 
the  bay,  the  ocean,  the  mountains,  and  the  forest. 

Commercially,  Santa  Cruz  is  of  much  importance.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the 
broad-gauge  branch  and  the  narrow-gauge  main  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific.  The 
soil  is  very  rich,  and  the  orchards  and  vineyards  very  remunerative.  The  powder- 
works,  among  the  largest  in  the  world,  are  in  a  canon  of  their  own,  three  miles  from 
town.  The  vines  and  apples  of  Santa  Cruz  have  captured  mam'  medals.  Here 
as  elsewhere  there  arc  many  industries  awaiting  development,  much  land  needing 
intensive  cultivation. 


254  OVER    THE   RANGE 

SAN  BENITO  COUNTY.— THE  VALLEYS  OF  SAN  BENITO 
AND  SAN  JUAN. 

The  trip  over  the  narrow-gauge  from  Santa  Cruz  to  San  Jose  and  Alameda  is 
another  chapter.  It  is  best  first  to  return  to  the  main  Coast  Line  at  Pajaro  (Paharo 
■ — bird),  and  go  northward. 

In  the  Pajaro  Valley  we  pass  Vega,  one  of  the  greatest  berry-shipping  points, 
Aromas,  growing  in  importance  as  an  apple-forwarding  station,  and  then  enter  the 
scenic  pass  through  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains.  We  cross  the  Pajaro  River  over 
a  fine  steel  bridge,  stop  a  moment  at  that  dairy  center  and  apple-station,  Chittenden, 
amid  pretty  environment,  and  then  for  another  moment  have  fleeting  glimpses  of 
the  beautiful  valley  of  San  Juan  and  the  white-walled  town  of  the  same  name  on  the 
hillside  three  miles  away.  Here  is  Betabel,  a  spur-track,  where  the  farmers  of  San 
Juan  haul  40,000  tons  of  beets  each  season  to  be  sent  to  the  Spreckels  factory.  A 
little  way  beyond  is  the  passenger-station  Sargent,  lying  between  the  river  bank  and 
the  hills.  It  is  an  important  shipping-point  for  farm  produce  and  cattle,  just  above 
being  the  famous  Sargent  Ranch;  but  it  is  chiefly  important  as  the  railroad  station 
of  the  San  Juan  Valley. 

Sail  »Tllclll.  It  is  a  beautiful  drive  along  the  wooded  Pajaro,  up  through  the 
vegetable  fields  and  orchards  to  San  Juan.  This  town  of  a  thousand  people  is  of 
great  historic  interest,  and  to-day  among  the  quaintest,  prettiest  puablos  of  all  Cali- 
fornia. Before  the  railroad  came  south  from  San  Francisco,  San  Juan  was  the  most 
important  point  between  San  Jose  and  Los  Angeles.  Stages  ran  to  Visalia,  to  Santa 
Barbara,  and  Los  Angeles,  to  Salinas  and  Monterey  and  to  Hollister.  Its  strategic 
value  in  the  matter  of  passes  is  recognized  to-day  by  the  telephone  company,  the 
lines  of  which  diverge  from  San  Juan  in  the  direction  that  the  coach  and  six  fifty 
years  ago  went  lumbering  down  the  roads. 

The  broad,  sandy  streets  are  over-arched  with  old  trees.  There  is  an  inde- 
scribable air  of  early  California  about  San  Juan.  The  older  inhabitants  are  for  the 
larger  part  residents  of  a  half-century  or  more,  who  are  satisfied  with  their  quiet 
prosperity. 

Crowning  the  hill  and  overlooking  the  town  and  valley  is  the  ancient  plaza,  sur- 
rounded by  the  famous  San  Juan  Bautisto  Mission,  the  governor's  house,  and  other 
ancient  buildings.  The  mission  and  its  environment  more  faithfully  reflect  the  early 
life  of  the  Spanish  padres  and  their  neophytes  than  any  other  in  the  state.  On  the 
side  of  the  plaza  adjoining,  is  a  picturesque  old  adobe — the  governor's  house,  head- 
quarters of  the  Mexican  General,  Seiior  Castro,  commanding  the  Mexican  forces, 
during  the  Mexican  War.  Here  news  of  the  declaration  of  war  came  to  Fremont, 
and  changed  a  host  into  an  enemy.  Down  the  hill  Fremont  fought  his  first  skirmish 
— over  on  yon  mountain  peak  he  first  unfolded  in  California  the  American  flag.  It 
was  in  March,  1846,  that  Captain  Fremont  and  his  command,  exploring  California 
"for  scientific  purposes,"  stopped  at  San  Juan  to  rest  his  tired  command.  Permission 
was  given,  but  the  disposition  of  his  troop  to  trade  for  the  best  horses  in  the  valley, 
his  evident  desire  to  buy  all  the  portable  supplies  of  the  mission,  and  the  rumors  of 
war  caused  General  Castro  to  invite  him  to  take  to  the  trail.  To  this  the  Pathfinder 
replied  to  the  effect  that  when  he  was  through  trading  he  would  go — and  not  before. 
Thereupon  the  General  summoned  the  faithful  of  Mexico  to  drive  the  Americanos 
ciel  Norte  into  the  sea.  Captain  Fremont  retreated  up  the  beautiful  San  Juan 
Canon  to  Gabilan  (Fremont)  Peak,  and  there,  on  March  10,  1846,  he  unfurled  the 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  255 

stars  and  stripes  and  awaited  attack  from  the  five  hundred  armed  and  mounted 
Mexicans.  The  latter  paraded  in  the  valley  with  all  the  pomp  and  circumstance  of 
war,  but  did  not  attack,  the  General  tersely  explaining  the  situation  in  a  proclama- 
tion, saying  they  gathered  together  to  fight — not  to  climb  mountains.  The  pro<  la- 
mation  ended  with  "Salganse  al  plan;  yo  no  soy  cierbo"  (Come  down  to  the  plain;  I 
am  not  an  elk).  Fremont  came  down,  into  the  San  Joaquin  Valley,  which  was 
perhaps  as  well  for  the  Mexican  caballeros. 

Aside  from  its  great  historic  interest,  the  San  Juan  Valley,  with  its  forty  thousand 
arable  acres  of  hill  and  valley  land,  is  noted  for  its  productions.  Apples  and  pears 
grow  to  perfection;  mustard,  potatoes,  onions,  berries,  asparagus,  beans,  sugar-beets, 
and  prunes  yield  heavy  crops;  while  the  grain,  hay,  cattle,  and  dairy  produce  of 
San  Juan  have  made  it  famous  for  forty  years.  There  is  the  quaintest  old  adobe 
hotel  imaginable  in  San  Juan,  while  Cottage  Grove  Farm  nearby  is  a  summer  resort 
with  many  attractions,  including  fishing,  hunting,  riding,  tennis,  etc.  The  climate 
of  the  San  Juan  Valley  is  perfect,  or  as  nearly  so  as  one  can  desire  it. 

Hollister.  The  beautiful  town  of  Hollister  is  not  far  from  the  Gabilan  Moun- 
tains, at  the  foot  of  a  high  mound,  which  commands  an  excellent  view  of  the  valley. 
This  mound  or  hill  is  the  city's  park.  On  the  level  valley  floor  at  its  foot  are  the 
houses  of  Hollister.  No  town  in  all  the  country  in  proportion  to  its  size  has  so  many 
beautiful  shade-trees  as  Hollister,  and  none  more  flowers.  There  are  many  unusu- 
ally line  residences  in  this  prosperous  town  of  two  thousand  people.  It  is  the  county- 
seat,  and  even  the  jail  and  court-house  show  the  result  of  civic  pride — albeit  the  town 
has  the  remarkable  record  of  having  had  one  criminal  case  in  three  years'  time  to 
consider.  A  force  of  men  is  kept  constantly  at  work  upon  sidewalks,  shade-trees, 
and  streets  under  the  city's  direction. 

THE  SANTA  CLARA  VALLEY  AND  SAN  JOSE. 

The  Santa  Clara  Valley  proper  begins  with  the  section  about  the  junction  of  the 
main  line  with  the  Hollister  branch,  and  extends  northward  to  Palo  Alto. 

This  dustless  valley  is  in  many  respects  the  most  remarkable  valley  in  the  world. 
It  in  many  things  more  nearly  represents  the  ideal  in  rural  homes  than  any  other 
section,  and  its  progress  in  that  direction  is  worthy  of  close  study  by  the  sociologist. 

A  glance  at  the  map  will  show  the  bay  of  San  Francisco  to  run  southward  for 
some  forty  miles  with  the  San  Francisco  peninsula  to  the  left.  Just  south  of  these, 
fronting  on  the  southern  end  of  the  bay  and  narrowing  to  the  left  into  the  peninsula, 
is  the  Santa  Clara  Valley.  The  climate  is  superb.  Anywhere  in  the  million  acres 
of  this  fertile  land  one  may  enjoy  a  perfect  climate.  The  word  "perfect"  is  used 
advisedly.  The  climate  of  Santa  Clara  Valle\  is  tonic;  not  too  hot,  not  too  cold.  It 
has  the  proper  changes  of  dampness,  of  dryness,  of  crispness,  and  dry  warmth.  Its 
nights  are  invariably  comfortable.  The  sunshiny  days  are  as  numerous  as  in 
any  part  of  the  state.  Its  season's  rainfall  is  ample,  and  at  the  Droper  time  in 
winter.     The  summers  are  cloudless. 

Scenically,  the  valley  is  beautiful.  The  mountains  surrounding  it  possess  an 
infinite  variety,  and  never  tire.  The  walls  to  the  east  are  green  to  the  very  top  of 
Alt.  Hamilton  in  spring  and  a  rampart  of  gold  in  autumn.  In  the  spring,  when  the 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  square  miles  of  orchards  are  in  bloom,  the  valley  is 
submerged  in  an  ocean  of  dazzling  white  that  rolls  up  the  mountain-sides,  covers  the 
floor,  fills  every  ravine,  and  encompasses  the  green-walled  cities. 

The  roads  of  Santa  Clara  Valley  are  of  the  features  that  have  made  its  rural  home* 


256  OVER    THE  RANGE 

famous.  There  are  over  three  hundred  miles  of  graded  boulevards,  sprinkled 
throughout  the  dry  season  by  the  county.  Through  the  endless  orchards,  go  where 
you  will,  bicycles,  carriages,  automobiles,  and  riding-horses  are  always  in  evi- 
dence. The  topography  of  the  valley,  as  well  as  the  roads,  has  much  to  do  with  this. 
The  valley  floor  is  almost  flat,  though  the  foothills  and  mountains  afford  a  very 
different  country  with  different  drives. 

One  may  drive  all  day  without  seeing  an  ill-kept  orchard  or  a  home  without  its 
flowers,  ornamented  grounds,  and  drives. 

What  is  the  material  side  of  the  picture  ?  Forty-five  cured  and  green  fruit  pack- 
ing-houses, eight  canneries,  twenty  wineries  answer  for  the  fruits.  Out  of  these  go 
annually  (measured  by  ten-ton  cars)  over  one  thousand  two  hundred  cars  of  canned 
goods,  over  one  thousand  cars  of  green  fruit,  over  six  thousand  cars  of  cured  fruit, 
and  one  thousand  cars  of  berries  and  vegetables.  Its  quicksilver  mines  are  the 
largest  in  America,  its  lumber  mills  among  the  most  important  in  the  state,  its  cattle, 
dairy,  hay,  and  grain  interests  very  large. 

Carnadero.  At  this  junction  is  one  of  the  famous  Morse  seed  farms.  It 
has  an  area  of  one  thousand  two  hundred  acres,  and  hundreds  of  men  are  employed. 
Hundreds  of  tons  of  garden  and  flower  seed  are  shipped  east  and  to  Europe,  there 
to  be  distributed  by  the  wholesale  seedmen.  From  here  is  also  shipped  thousands 
of  tons  of  sugar-beets  each  year  to  the  Spreckels  factory.  One  of  the  Spreckels  large 
ranches  lies  to  the  east  of  Carnadero,  the  warm  farm-house  being  located  pictur- 
esquely amid  beautiful  grounds  on  a  hilltop.  Just  below  is  the  famous  Soap  Lake, 
now  only  of  thirty  or  forty  acres,  but  before  drainage  reduced  its  area  occupying 
several  hundred  acres.  This  section  by  the  foothills,  with  its  rich  lowlands,  suitable 
for  both  orchards  and  vegetables,  is  known  as  San  Felipe. 

Grilroy.  The  thriving  city  of  Gilroy,  with  a  population  of  about  two  thousand, 
is  the  metropolis  of  the  southern  part  of  the  Santa  Clara  Valley.  It  is  two  miles 
north  of  Carnadero  Junction.  Gilroy,  like  Hollister,  has  beautiful  houses,  with 
well-shaded  streets.  It  is  supplied  with  gas  and  an  electric  plant.  Ten  miles  of 
street  are  paved  and  graded.  The  little  city  has  an  assessed  valuation  of  over 
$1,500,000.  There  are  eight  hundred  school-children,  good  schools,  two  papers, 
one  bank,  good  hotels,  six  churches,  etc.  The  oldest  inhabitants  settled  here  (Old 
Gilroy)  in  1845,  and  have  found  it  good  enough  ever  since.  Indeed,  you  cannot 
drive  the  old  residents  from  Gilroy,  and  they  die  only  as  a  matter  of  variety. 

The  valley  here  is  four  miles  wide.  The  mountain  and  valley  territory  tributary 
to  the  town  is  one  hundred  square  miles.  Land  values  in  the  valley  range  from 
fifty  to  three  hundred  dollars  per  acre.  A  fruit-packing  house  is  being  built,  and 
there  is  a  good  opening  for  a  fruit  and  vegetable  cannery. 

The  products  of  this  part  of  the  Santa  Clara  speak  for  the  wonderful  richness  of 
the  soil.  The  town  is  encompassed  with  prune,  peach,  almond,  pear,  and 
apple  orchards  yielding  a  thousand  tons  of  cured  fruit  last  season,  besides 
fruit  shipped  green.  Grain  and  hay  are  sure  crops  in  this  section,  hundreds  of  car- 
loads being  marketed.  The  Santa  Cruz  Mountains  to  the  west  have  good  forests 
of  oak  and  redwood,  and  the  lumber  products  form  a  considerable  item  in  shipments. 

Gilroy  is  very  prosperous  and  is  growing  steadily.  Rainfall  is  ample,  and  the 
water  supply  excellent  and  there  are  artesian  wells  all  over  the  valley. 

Gilroy  Hot  Spring's.  There  are  many  beautiful  drives  to  be  made  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Gilroy,  and  among  them  the  one  to  Gilroy  Hot  Springs  is  best 
known.  A  daily  stage  takes  the  traveler  eastward  thirteen  miles  to  this  famous 
resort  in  the  coast  Range,  where  one  is  charged  twelve  dollars  a  week  for  board, 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


257 


lodging,  and  the  privilege  of  getting  well.  These  hot  springs  arc  among  the  best 
known  in  the  state. 

Passing  Rucker,  station  for  a  rich  subdivision  north  of  Gilroy,  we  cross  Llagas 
Creek  and  reach  San  Martin. 

Sail  Martin.  This  little  town  of  a  hundred  people  is  the  (enter  of  a  very  rich 
sec  lion  now  being  subdivided  and  sold  to  settlers  at  reasonable  rates.  It  has  several 
business  houses,  a  fine  school,  hotel,  etc.  Near  here  is  the  well-known  San  Martin 
Ranch,  on  which  several  hundred  people  have  planted  orchards  and  vineyards  in  the 
last  few  years. 

Passing   Tennant    Station,    the    next   important    slop   is    Morganhill. 

Morganhill.  This  successful  colony  of  a  thousand  people  is  growing  at  the 
rate  of  forty  percent  a  year.     It  is  charmingly  located  at  the  foot  of  an  isolated  peak 


SAN  JOSE. 


known  as  Nob  Hill,  and  not  far  from  Murphy's  Peak,  whence  beautiful  views  are 
obtained. 

Morganhill  is  a  temperance  town,  with  four  churches,  good  schools,  three  school- 
houses,  a  good  water  system,  a  weekly  paper,  a  fine  depot,  several  large  stores,  etc. 
The  town  is  only  ten  years  old.  Fruit,  wine,  wood,  hay,  and  grain  are  the  principal 
products.  There  is  room  for  a  good  dairy  and  for  a  packing-house.  Land  is  sold 
at  prices  ranging  from  fifteen  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  acre. 

Madrone,  within  fourteen  miles  of  San  Jose.  Madrone  is  a  pleasant  town  of 
several  hundred  people,  and  is  the  station  for  many  resorts.  Mountain  Home,  with 
its  deer-hounds,  hunting  and  fishing  clubs,  etc.,  is  reached  by  a  two  hours'  westward 
ride  three  times  a  week.  In  the  opposite  direction  Madrone  Mineral  Springs  is 
about  the  same  distance,  reached  tri-weekly  by  stage.  Its  altitude  is  two  thousand 
feet,  and  its  waters  are  particularly  good  for  stomach  troubles.  The  Indians  knew 
them  as  "Great  Medicine,"  and  it  is  said  that  the  tribe  that  camped  in  that  vicinity 
surprised  the  Spanish  padres  with  their  appetites.  There  are  several  other  resorts, 
such  as  Glen  Willis  (three  miles  away). 

Eden  "Vale.  Several  miles  south  of  San  Jose  in  a  magnificent  orchard  coun- 
try, is  Eden  Vale.  It  is  not  a  town,  just  a  settlement  of  beautiful  homes,  with  rural 
mail  delivery,  and  practically  all  the  advantages  of  city  life,  with  no  disadvantages. 
All  deciduous  fruits  do  very  well.     The  rich  soil  is  thirty  feet  deep. 


25S 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


Passing  Valbrick  we  are  taken  through  the  suburbs  of  San  Jose  to  the  center  of 
that  charming  city. 

San  Jose.  San  Jose  is  a  city  of  thirty  thousand  people,  of  whom  some  twenty- 
three  thousand  live  within  the  narrow  city  limits.  It  is  unlike  any  other  California 
town.  To  all  who  have  visited  San  Jose,  the  word  recalls  something  strongly 
individual.  In  public  buildings  and  in  business  blocks  there  are  few  cities  of  its 
size  to  rival  it.  It  is  almost  in  the  center  of  the  main  Santa  Clara  Valley,  and 
through  railroads  and  wagon-roads  commands  the  entire  valley  and  the  surrounding 
mountains,  five  miles  distant  to  the  east  and  eight  miles  away  to  the  west.  The 
broad-gauge  lines  of  the  Southern  Pacific  extend  northward  along  the  peninsula  to 

San  Francisco  (fifty  miles  away),  south  to  Los  An- 
geles and  beyond,  eastward  via  Niles  to  eastern 
and  northern  California  and  beyond,  besides  local 
lines  to  the  quicksilver  mines  of  New  Almaden  and 
Los  Gatos.  The  narrow-gauge  extends  from  San 
Jose  through  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains  southwest 
to  the  sea  at  Santa  Cruz;  and  northeastward  via 
the  eastern  shore  of  San  Francisco  Bay  to  Alameda 
and  San  Francisco.  County  turnpikes  extend  in 
all  directions  from  San  Jose  as  a  center. 

San  Jose  as  a  health  resort  has  the  same  ad- 
vantages as  the  valley  at  large.  In  the  summer 
the  highest  temperature — unless  there  be  a  forest- 
fire — is  rarely  above  ninety  degrees,  ninety-four 
degrees  being  the  maximum  in  1901.  The  air 
lacks  humidity,  and  there  is  never  any  evidence  of 
that  stifling  summer  heat  known  in  the  east.  San 
Jose  is  indeed  better  known  as  a  summer  resort 
than  as  a  winter  one.  The  nights  are  invariably 
cool,  and  in  the  shade  the  hottest  days  are  very 
pleasant.  Sunstroke,  like  cholora-infantum  and 
typhoid-fever,  is  unknown.  The  air  is  a  tonic  sum- 
mer and  winter;  never  a  burden  like  an  overheated 
blanket.  In  the  winter  the  climate  is  almost  semi- 
tropic.  The  city  possesses  two  resort  hotels,  besides  several  commercial  houses, 
and  many  good  boarding-houses.  Nicely  furnished  rooms  are  to  let  to  transient 
-esidents.  The  reasonableness  of  the  charges  will  be  surprising.  The  hotel  Ven- 
dome,  best  known  of  Santa  Clara  Valley  hostelries,  occupies  a  park  of  its  own  in 
the  heart  of  town.  There  is  a  large  swimming-pavilion,  with  bowling-alley,  club- 
rooms,  etc.  The  golf-links  and  tennis-grounds  are  of  the  best.  The  hotel  St. 
James  is  near  the  business  center  of  town,  opposite  St.  James  Park. 

The  nearest  of  San  Jose's  principal  attractions  :s  Alum  Rock  Canon  Hot  Springs 
and  park,  five  miles  east  of  the  city.  This  six-hundred-acre  park  with  its  sixteen 
curative  mineral  springs  is  the  city's  pride.  It  includes  a  magnificent  mountain 
canon  with  high  walls,  perennial  stream,  groves,  springs,  walks,  and  drives.  There 
ire  deer-parks,  aviary,  plunge  and  tub-baths,  restaurant,  fountains,  etc.  An 
electric  line  gives  half-hourly  service.  Alum  Rock  Canon  gives  tourists  the  best 
opportunity  in  California  to  visit  a  wild  mountain  canon.  From  its  mouth  the  road 
climbs  upward  to  Mt.  Hamilton. 

Lick  Observatory.   The  great  seven  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollar  ob- 


mm; 

MT.  HAMILTON. 


260 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


servatorv,  given  to  the  world  by  James  Lick,  who  rests  beneathits  base,  is  twenty-seven 
miles  from  San  Jose,  and  four  thousand  four  hundred  and  forty  feet  above  sea-level. 
Santa  Clara  County  spent  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  building  the  best  moun- 
tain road  in  the  world  to  its  site.  The  trip  is  made  by  stage,  automobile,  or  bicycle; 
the  stage  trip  occupies  about  four  hours  each  way.  A  day  is  given  to  the  trip,  except 
that  on  Saturday  the  start  is  made  at  noon  and  San  Jose  reached,  returning  at  mid- 
night, the  great  telescope  being  given  over  to  the  public  on  that  night.  This  thirty- 
six-inch  refractor  is  the  second  largest  in  the  world,  and  anybody  after  new  worlds 
to  conquer  can  find  any  number  with  its  aid. 


LICK  OBSERVATORY. 


The  Santa  Clara  Mission.  Is  reached  by  a  three-mile  electric  line  ride 
from  San  Jose  along  the  beautiful  Alameda,  and  is  more  fully  described  under  the 
heading  of  Santa  Clara. 

Congress  Springs  is  twelve  miles  distant  from  San  Jose  in  the  Santa  Cruz  moun- 
tains, reached  by  a  lovely  orchard-lined  drive  with  an  electric  line,  or  via  Los  Gatos. 
The  New  Almaden  quicksilver  mines,  twelve  miles  away,  are  the  objective  points 
of  another  day's  journey  by  narrow  or  broad-gauge  rail  line.  Beautiful  Lomas 
Azulas,  ten  miles  to  the  southeast,  and  as  fine  a  foothill  paradise  as  Smiley  Heights 
in  Redlands,  gives  another  delightful  day.  Los  Gatos  is  reached  in  twenty  minutes 
by  the  train,  and  Stanford  University  in  a  half-hour.  Lovely  drives  along  the 
shaded  avenues  may  be  made  to  the  Willows,  to  Berryessa,  to  Campbell,  to  Cuper- 
tino, and  Saratoga,  great  fruit-growing  centers.  The  quays  of  the  south  Bay  Yacht 
Club  are  reached  in  a  nine-mile  drive.  There  are  a  dozen  mountain  trout-streams 
to  be  encountered  in  four  or  five  miles.  Good  quail-hunting  is  near  by,  and  the 
wilder  mountains  have  plenty  of  deer,  and  even  mountain-lion  and  bear.  The 
roads  are  unexcelled  for  automobiling,  driving,  riding,  and  cycling.  The  climate 
gives  one  the  out-of-door  fever  the  year  round.  There  are  more  automobiles  in  San 
Jose  now  than  in  any  other  place  in  California,  outside  of  San  Francisco,  and  possibly 
Los  Angeles.  The  Big  Trees — the  famous  giants  of  the  redwood  groves — are  an 
hour's  ride  away.  With  such  attractions,  and  with  a  wealth  of  fruit  and  flowers 
that  is  amazing,  it  is  not  surprising  that  San  Jose  is  looking  forward  to  the  time 
when  it  shall  be  unsurpassed  among  the  resort-places  of  the  world. 

San  Jose  claims  to  be  the  educational  tenter  of  the  Pacific  Slope.  Stanford 
University  is  almost  suburban  to  it;  Santa  Clara  College  is  three  miles  away,  and 


262  OVER    THE   RANGE 

the  famous  University  of  the  Pacific,  the  College  of  Notre  Dame,  the  State  Normal 
School,  and  high  schools,  grammar  schools,  etc.,  are  in  the  city  limits. 

The  city  has  in  addition  to  Alum  Rock  Canon,  two  parks  (of  about  thirty-three 
acres)  in  the  city  limits.  The  public  utilities  include  a  $250,000  city  hall,  a 
$50,000  Carnegie  library,  seven  school  buildings,  worth  from  $15,000  to  $75,000 
each,  a  $200,000  Normal  School,  a  $200,000  Postomce,  county  court-house  and  hall 
of  records,  valued  at  $500,000,  thirty  miles  of  electric  street  railway,  fifty-five  miles 
of  sewers,  thirty  passenger-trains  daily,  gas  and  electricity,  and  many  of  the  most 
attractive  homes  in  California.  As  a  business  center  it  is  the  most  important  place 
between  Los  Angeles  and  San  Francisco. 

Santa  Clara.  This  city  of  four  thousand  people  is  but  three  miles  from  San 
Jose.  Their  destinies  are  one.  They  are  connected  by  an  electric  line,  and  possess 
identical  interests.  Santa  Clara  possesses  man}-  (harming  homes,  and  the  old  Santa 
Clara  Mission  has  much  of  romantic  and  historic  interest.  It  was  founded  January 
12,  1777,  and  has  many  rare  and  ancient  relics.  The  Mission  is  in  the  hands  of  the 
Santa  Clara  College;  visitors  are  welcomed.  The  Court  of  Flowers  is  of  signal 
beauty. 

A  hundred  and  twenty-live  years  ago  some  beautiful-toned  bells  were  given  Santa 
Clara  Mission  with  the  understanding  that  they  should  ring  each  day  forever — and 
to  this  day  the  promise  has  been  kept.  So  Santa  Clara  seems  destined  to  keep  all 
promises  made  for  it,  and  to  be  a  fitting  companion  of  San  Jose. 

Lawrence.  A  place  of  two  hundred  people  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  seed,  hay, 
wine,  and  dairy  country.     Supplies  San  Francisco  with  much  cream  and  milk. 

Sunnyvale.  In  a  very  rich  fruit  section;  an  important  shipping  point  for 
green  fruit  and  wine;  needs  a  packing-house. 

Mountain  View.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  Santa  Clara  Valley,  eleven  miles 
from  San  Jose,  Mountain  View  is  this  growing  and  progressive  town.  Its  products 
are  wine,  hay,  grain,  fruit,  brick,  and  beets  in  the  order  named.  'Wine  is  shipped 
hence  all  over  Europe  and  America.  The  population  of  this  prettily  built  town 
among  the  oaks  is  about  twelve  hundred,  with  a  tributary  population  of  about  three 
thousand  five  hundred. 

Mayfield.  This  beautiful  town,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Stanford  University, 
has  a  population  of  one  thousand.  It  is  well  built,  has  electric  lights,  good  water 
system,  a  fine  new  school  building,  a  newspaper,  etc.  It  is  rich  in  wines,  fruit  (ber- 
ries particularly),  hay,  dairy  products,  and  vegetables.  Its  nearness  to  the  University 
adds  to  its  desirability  as  a  residence  section. 

Palo  Alto.  A  mile  north  of  Mayfield  is  the  growing  university  town  of  Palo 
Alto,  a  place  of  twenty-five  hundred  people.  Its  proximity  to  the  grounds  of  Stan- 
ford University,  its  fine  climate  and  excellent  society,  the  character  of  its  government, 
making  it  ideal  for  homes,  has  resulted  in  unexampled  prosperity.  The  place  has 
kindergartens,  private  schools,  two  preparatory  academies,  grammar  and  high- 
schools,  etc.  The  public-school  buildings  cost  fifty  thousand  dollars.  The  town 
owns  an  electric  light,  sewer,  and  water  system,  has  a  free  library,  bank,  newspapers, 
and  many  business  houses. 

Leland  Stanford  Junior  University.  The  gateway  to  the  University 
is  opposite  the  town  of  Palo  Alto.  It  is  surrounded  by  part  of  its  endowment,  the 
magnificent  Palo  Alto  estate  of  seventy-three  hundred  acres.  The  value  of  the  total 
endowment  is  estimated  at  thirty-five  million  dollars.  The  University  buildings  are  the 
most  beautiful  group  of  public  buildings  in  America.  They  are  but  parts  of  one  plan, 
and  are  constructed  of  Santa  Clara  Valley  brown. sandstone  throughout — beautiful 


264  OVER    THE  RANGE 

and  restful  in  color,  and  in  pleasing  contrast  to  the  walls  of  green  of  the  surrounding 
hills  and  the  great  campus  in  front.  The  buildings  of  the  University  are  not  piled 
sky-high,  but  with  long  corridors  rise  two  stories  for  the  most  part  completely  inclos- 
ing a  beautiful  quadrangle,  in  itself  about  a  ninth  of  a  mile  long  by  eighty  yards 
broad.  The  massive  memorial  arch  in  front,  and  the  beautiful  memorial  church 
with  its  cathedral-like  interior,  great  arches  and  allegorical  windows  are  the  most 
imposing  features  of  the  group.  Flanking  the  main  buildings  to  the  right  is  Encina 
Hall  for  the  boys  and  Roble  Hall  for  the  girls,  while  across  the  campus  are  the  new 
chemistry  building  and  the  museum.  Tuition  at  the  University  is  free,  and  the 
equipment  is  that  naturally  to  be  expected  in  the  richest  endowed  university  in 
the  world.     The  students  of  the  present  semester  number  fifteen  hundred. 

Stanford  Stock  Farm.  Adjoins  the  University  grounds,  and  is  one  of  the 
famous  stock-farms  of  America.  Many  record-breaking  horses  were  raised  here  by 
Senator  Stanford,  and  many  lie  buried  beneath  its  sod. 

Meillo  Park.  A  mile  north  of  Palo  Alto,  "the  village  of  beautiful  homes,"  is 
a  place  of  suburban  homes  for  many  wealthy  residents  of  San  Francisco.  Here  are 
beautiful  estates,  both  to  the  mountains  and  to  the  shore.  The  country  here,  as 
about  Palo  Alto,  is  especially  rich  in  berries,  nursery-stock,  and  conservatories.  It 
has  a  boys'  school,  good  schools,  three  churches,  three  commercial  hotels,  the 
Academy  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  and  St.  Patrick's  Seminary.  Like  the  other  penin- 
sula towns,  Menlo  Park  has  a  good  water  and  electric  system,  etc. 

Fail*  Oaks.     Sister  of  Menlo  Park,  with  equally  attractive  environment. 

Redwood  City.  The  county-seat  of  San  Mateo  County  and  a  place  of  much 
commercial  and  manufacturing  importance.  Its  population  of  twenty-five  hundred 
people  is  engaged  at  home;  only  recently  has  the  town  given  any  attention  to  secur- 
ing suburban  settlers  from  San  Francisco.  It  possesses*  the  largest  tannery  in  the 
state,  employing  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  men,  and  has  two  others.  The  Light 
and  Power  Company  use  Redwood  as  a  distributing-point  for  the  peninsula.  It  is 
the  chief  lumber-shipping  point  of  the  north  coast  line,  the  lumber  being  hauled  from 
the  mountains  rising  back  of  it. 

The  Redwood  Forest,  L.a  Honda,  and  Pescadero.  Redwood 
and  San  Mateo  have  a  "back  country."  One  may  go  to  the  pleasant  village  of 
Woodside,  three  miles  distant,  to  Portola  Valley,  a  pretty  summer  resort  place,  or  on 
beyond  over  the  ridge-top  to  Pescadero.  At  Grand  View  we  can  see  San  Francisco 
Bay,  the  Santa  Clara  Valley,  Mt.  Hamilton,  Mt.  Diablo,  and  the  peninsula  towns. 
Seventeen  miles  from  Redwood  on  this  road  is  La  Honda,  a  famous  resort  amid 
redwoods,  with  excellent  hunting  and  fishing.  Many  people  from  San  Francisco 
spend  summer  after  summer  in  this  charming  camp.  Passing  the  camp  village  of 
Harrison,  we  arrive  at  Pescadero,  thirty  miles  from  Redwood,  and  near  the  ocean. 
Pebble  Beach,  with  its  acres  of  mock  brilliants,  the  San  Gregorio  Lagoon  and 
its  tributary  stream,  where  the  fish  flock  to  meet  the  stranger,  the  Big  Basin  a  few 
hours'  ride  away — these  are  the  attractions  of  Pescadero.  Accommodations,  hotel 
and  camp,  are  good  at  all  the  points  named. 

Sail  Carlos.  The  town  of  San  Carlos  is  an  ideal  residence  place,  two  miles 
north  of  Redwood  City.  The  beauty  of  its  surrounding  hills  and  the  loveliness  of  its 
drives  cannot  be  described. 

Belmont.  Another  residence  town  suburban  to  San  Francisco,  a  mile  north 
of  San  Carlos.     It  has  an  excellent  military  school. 

Beresford.  Yet  another  village  where  the  city  people  find  the  comforts  of 
home. 


TO    THE  GOLD  EX   GATE.  265 

San  Mateo.  A  town  of  twenty-five  hundred  people,  and  one  of  San  Francisco's 
finest  suburban  home  places.  It  is  popular  the  year  round,  but  in  summer  is  espe- 
cially favored  by  the  people  of  San  Francisco.  In  the  town  itself  are  many  beautiful 
homes  of  people  of  moderate  means  who  have  business  in  San  Francisco.  Sur- 
rounding the  central  part  of  town  and  extending  up  to  and  beyond  Burlingame  are 
magnificent  country  homes,  with  grounds  in  size  from  an  acre  up  to  a  thousand. 
The  excellent  climate  of  San  Mateo,  its  wealth  of  natural  beauty  in  rolling  hills, 
picturesque  beach  and  great  oaks,  have  made  it  one  of  the  most  charming  residence 
districts  in  the  United  States.  The  San  Mateo  beach  is  unusually  fine,  with  warm 
water,  owing  to  the  protected  position  and  the  tide  movement  over  warm  sand. 
Bath-house  accommodations  are  good.  A  Yacht  Club  has  its  headquarters  here. 
The  drives  include  a  canon  of  remarkable  beauty,  interior  lakes  and  high  ridges 
amid  beautiful  estates.  The  hotel  is  in  a  park  of  its  own,  and  caters  to  "tourist" 
travelers.     Home  sites  cost  from  one  hundred  to  one  thousand  dollars  per  acre. 

Burlillgaine.  Is  just  north  of  San  Mateo,  and  its  attractions,  environment, 
and  location  is  not  in  any  way  different.  It  is  perhaps  the  most  exclusive  home  town 
in  California,  and  here  San  Francisco  society  has  its  country  headquarters.  The 
homes  are  marvels  of  beauty,  and  it  is  everywhere  evident  that  money  and  good 
taste  have  been  important  partners  with  nature  in  making  Burlingame  beautiful. 
The  Country  Club,  with  its  magnificent  home  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  wealthy 
members,  the  many  golf-links,  polo-grounds,  etc.,  bespeak  the  character  of  this 
place. 

Mlllbrae.  The  center  of  the  great  dairy  section  just  south  of  San  Francisco. 
This  little  town  sends  daily  nearly  a  thousand  gallons  of  milk  to  San  Francisco  by 
rail.  Its  population  of  three  hundred,  and  its  surrounding  neighborhood  are  en- 
gaged almost  exclusively  in  dairying.  A  beautiful  drive  may  be  taken  from  San 
Mateo  through  El  Cerrito  Park,  along  the  county  road  by  the  massive  Spring  Valley 
Dam  and  Crystal  Springs  and  San  Andreas  Lakes  to  Millbrae  or  vice  versa. 

Sail  Brillio.  Tributary  to  this  station  are  many  dairies,  vegetable  gardens, 
etc. 

South  Sail  Francisco.  Is  on  the  "new"  line,  several  trains  running  via 
this  station.  It  is  an  industrial  town  of  about  fifteen  hundred  people,  and  has  more 
manufactures  in  proportion  to  population  than  any  other  town  in  California.  The 
meat  company,  the  pottery  works,  paint  works,  brick  yard,  ice  works,  etc., 
handle  in  and  out  large  quantities  of  cattle,  fresh  and  cured  meats,  ice,  paint,  lard, 
hay,  hides,  tallow,  pipe,  and  brick.  The  town  has  good  schools,  streets,  and  side- 
walks, and  a  very  promising  industrial  future. 

Baden.     In  the  midst  of  a  vegetable  section. 

Colllia.  Is  the  business  station  for  the  beautiful  San  Francisco  cemeteries — ■ 
Mt.  Olivet,  Cypress  Lawn,  Sholim,  Home  of  Peace  and  Holy  Cross,  which  are  in  full 
view  from  the  train.  Colma  has  an  unexcelled  dairy,  hog  and  vegetable  country 
tributary  to  it,  and  supplies  San  Francisco's  tables  to  a  noticeable  extent.  The  town 
has  about  seven  hundred  people,  and  is  growing.  Union  Coursing  Park  is  near 
here. 

Ocean  View  and  Valencia  Street.  Are  San  Francisco's  residence 
district  stations. 


266  OVER   THE  RANGE 


THE    NARROW-GAUGE    LINE:     SANTA    CRUZ    MOUN- 
TAINS   AND    BAY    SHORE. 

Seventy-seven  miles  of  picturesque  country  lie  between  Santa  Cruz  and  Alameda 
along  the  narrow-gauge — mountains,  valleys,  and  bay  shore.  Once  at  Santa  Cruz, 
via  the  broad-gauge  line,  one  should  go  as  far  as  San  Jose  at  least,  over  the  narrow- 
gauge. 

From  the  union  Santa  Cruz  Station  the  line  runs  through  the  city,  and  out 
through  a  tunnel-gateway.  Thence  the  road  climbs  steadily  along  the  western  and 
northern  slope  of  San  Lorenzo  Cafion,  amid  the  redwood,  madrone,  laurel,  and  pine, 
up  into  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains.  Below  the  San  Lorenzo  runs  musically  down 
its  terraced  pathway,  while  above  the  rounded  hills  swell  out  one  above  the  other, 
forest-covered,  or  turned  into  oases  of  orchard  and  vineyard. 

The  seven  miles  between  Santa  Cruz  and  the  Big  Trees  is  a  beautiful  journey 
over  the  well-kept  country  boulevard,  or  by  rail. 

Big"  Trees.  The  Big  Trees  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains  are  of  the  great 
redwood  forests  of  California,  the  Sequoia  scmpervirens.  They  are  cousins  of  the 
Sequoias  of  the  Sierras  (Sequoia  gigantea),  and  in  massiveness  second  only  to  them. 
A  hundred  yards'  walk  from  the  Big  Trees  Station  takes  one  to  the  foot  of  the  largest, 
the  Giant.  Other  trees  towering  up  in  the  sky  beyond  the  power  of  the  eye  to 
measure  accurately  are  near  by  in  groups,  or  singly  in  this  hillside  hollow  above  the 
San  Lorenzo. 

General  Grant  and  General  Sherman  are  dignified  trees;  and  the  hollow  tree, 
in  which  Fremont  found  shelter  in  1846,  bears  his  name. 

These  trees  are  remarkable  for  both  height  and  girth,  single  ones  now  standing 
reaching  up  two  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet,  and  being  sixty-five  feet  around. 
"Family"  trees,  groups  from  a  single  root,  have  a  yet  greater  base  circumference; 
one  family,  now  almost  gone,  save  the  historic  ridge  or  root  upon  the  ground,  has  a 
circumference  over  one  hundred  feet. 

Whether  one  thousand,  or  two  or  three  thousand  years  old,  for  scientists  do  not 
agree,  these  trees  give  such  an  aspect  of  dignity  to  the  scene,  create  a  templed  grove 
of  such  majesty,  that  man  measuring  his  temporal  life  with  so  narrow  a  span,  may 
well  look  upon  them  as  the  Immortals. 

Feltoil.  A  mile  beyond  is  Felton,  junction  for  the  Boulder  Creek  Branch, 
station  for  the  town  a  little  way  up  stream,  and  shipping-point  for  vineyards 
and  fruit  ranches  of  Ben  Lomond  Mountains,  Zayante  and  Scott's  Valleys.  Wood 
and  lime  are  important  products  also. 

Near  Felton  are  many  of  the  summer  resorts  hotels  and  camps  that  have  made 
the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains  famous. 

The  country  hereabouts  is  a  vast  playground  for  city  people  in  midsummer,  who 
live  here  inexpensively — camping,  riding,  swimming,  fishing,  hunting,  living  out  of 
doors. 

The  Boulder  Creek  Branch  runs  north  in  the  canon  of  the  San  Lorenzo  for  eight 
miles,  crossing  that  stream  as  many  times  to  a  junction  of  Boulder  Creek,  Bear 
Creek,  and  the  San  Lorenzo. 

Ben  LiOinoml.  Is  a  great  resort  town,  one  of  the  favorites  of  the  mountains. 
Rowardennan  is  reached  from  here  by  stage. 

Boulder  Creek.  Is  a  newly  incorporated  town  of  eight  hundred  people,  the 
terminus  of  the  branch,  and  one  of  the  great  lumber  towns  of  the  coast.     From  its 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   (J ATE.  267 

three  tributary  canons,  and  from  over  the  ridge-tops  come  each  summer  thousands 
upon  thousands  of  wagon-loads  of  lumber,  wood,  bark,  pickets,  posts,  and  shingles — ■ 
redwood,  pine,  and  oak.  While  ninety-live  percent  of  its  shipments  arc  now  of  tin- 
forest,  wine  and  table-grapes  and  apples  will  change  that  ere  long.  Boulder  Creek 
is  growing  too  as  a  resort  point. 

The  sawmills,  save  two  or  three,  are  several  miles  from  town  in  a  country  beauti- 
ful with  a  luxuriance  of  flowers  and  vine,  of  shrubs  and  forest. 

Here,  among  redwoods  and  pines,  the  great  ox-teams  yet  haul  their  train  of 
twenty  logs  down  greased  skids  to  the  mill;  and  here  one  wishing  to  acquire  strenu- 
ousness  in  the  use  of  language  may  listen  to  advantage. 

The  fishing  is  good;  deer,  quail,  wild-pigeons,  squirrels,  etc.,  have  a  covert  that 
is  protection  enough  to  make  hunting  interesting  to  hunters  as  well  as  hunted. 

Boulder  Creek  has  good  water-works,  electric  lights,  a  new  sewer  system,  three 
churches,  a  public  school,  a  free  library,  and  business  houses  commensurate  with 
its  lively  importance. 

Arcadia,  Union  Mill,  Meelian,  Zayante,  and  Clem.  Return- 
ing to  the  main  narrow-gauge  line  at  Felton  our  trip  is  amid  mountain-tops,  a  wild 
country,  and  yet  hiding  many  a  fine  orchard  and  vineyard.  We  travel  tunnel-wise 
here  also,  among  the  tunnels  being  the  second  longest  on  the  system.  The  names 
in  the  margin  speaks  of  resorts  and  mountain  homes. 

Gleiiwood.  This  summer-resort  station  has  six  summer  hotels  tributary  to 
it,  from  one-quarter  of  a  mile  to  seven  miles  distant.  It  possesses  a  redwood  forest 
park  of  eighty  acres,  free  to  every  one. 

The  finest  table-grapes  in  the  world  are  raised  hereabouts,  and  sent  by  the  car- 
load East.  Apples  and  peaches  and  wine-grapes  are  important  products,  the  local 
winery  making  200,000  gallons  of  wine  this  season.  The  large  redwoods  are  nearly 
three  hundred  feet  high. 

"Laurel.  Like  Glenwood,  Laurel  has  a  vast  area  of  rich  mountain  land  adapted 
to  the  cultivation  of  wine  and  table  grapes,  to  apples  and  other  deciduous  fruits. 
Already  the  annual  green-fruit  crop  sent  to  market  exceeds  five  hundred  tons,  and 
one  hundred  tons  more  are  forwarded  dried.  The  inhabitants  report  that  the 
climate  "is  healthy  beyond  belief."  Magnificent  views  are  had  from  Laurel  of 
Monterey  Bay  and  the  ocean. 

The  station  has,  of  course,  many  resort  hotels  tributary. 

WrijJ'llt.  A  pleasant  summer  resort,  with  a  fine  fruit  country,  as  elsewhere  in 
the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains.  The  hills  that  close  in  about  it  produce  fifty  carloads  of 
table-grapes,  twenty  carloads  of  pears,  twenty  carloads  of  plums,  and  seventy-five 
carloads  of  prunes,  peaches,  etc.  (green),  and  you  can  hardly  see  where  the  earth  is 
scratched. 

Sunset  Park,  a  popular  picnic-ground,  is  three  hundred  yards  from  the 
depot. 

Alma.  Alma  is  like  its  western  neighbors,  a  summer-resort  station,  with  a  fine 
country  of  forty  square  miles  tributary.  The  six  hundred  people  in  this  mountain 
land  have  hotels  or  raise  fruit  or  cut  wood.  A  million  pounds  of  fruit  and  a  million 
pounds  of  wine  went  out  and  through  Alma  last  season.  It  possesses  possibilities 
in  the  way  of  oil-development  that  may  make  it  famous.  Here,  indeed,  was  pro- 
duced the  first  oil  of  the  coast  in  a  considerable  quantity — successfully  burned,  by 
the  way,  on  locomotives  nearly  twenty  years  ago. 

Los  Gatos.  The  town  has  a  population  of  about  two  thousand  live  hundred 
people,  one-half  of  whom  have  come  here  to  enjoy  the  money  acquired  elsewhere. 


268  OVER    THE  RANGE 

The  producing  population  writes  its  returns  upon  waybills  in  millions  of  pounds 
of  canned  goods,  dried  fruit,  green  fruit,  wine,  ice,  and  limestone  annually. 

Under  the  brow  of  the  mountains,  tempered  by  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  with 
a  good  rainfall  in  winter  and  none  in  summer,  seven  hundred  feet  above  sea-level, 
Los  Gatos  is  one  of  the  most  charming  all-year  resorts  in  the  world.  The  lowest 
temperature  in  1900  was  twenty-nine  degrees  above  zero,  in  1901,  thirty-two  degrees 
above.  The  orange  orchards,  one  of  which  is  some  twenty  years  old,  produce 
oranges  equal  to  any.  There  are  no  frosts,  and  fresh  fruits  are  ripened  in  the  town 
every  day  in  the  year. 

The  town  has  two  good  hotels  now  and.  a  large  resort  hotel  planned.  It  has 
electric  light,  gas  and  ice  plants.  A  fifteen-thousand-dollar  Carnegie  library  is  now 
being  built. 

Saratoga  and  Congress  Springs.  Saratoga  is  the  western  village  of 
Santa  Clara  County,  and  like  Los  Gatos,  lies  at  the  mouth  of  a  pass  through  the  moun- 
tains— five  miles  north  from  Los  Gatos  and  ten  west  from  San  Jose.  Saratoga  from 
its  foothill  eminence  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Santa  Clara  Valley.  This 
vine-clad,  rose-garlanded  village  has  all  the  attractions  of  Los  Gatos  in  climate, 
products,  and  scenery.  Two  miles  beyond  up  the  canon  are  beautiful  Congress 
Springs  and  Hall  (known  also  as  Saratoga  Springs),  with  a  fine  hotel,  baths,  walks, 
drives,  lake,  springs,  and  streams.  The  water,  which  is  extensively  bottled,  has 
many  medicinal  qualities. 

Both  Saratoga  and  Congress  Springs  are  reached  by  stage  from  Los  Gatos  or 
San  Jose. 

Cupertino.  Another  pretty  west  Santa  Clara  Valley  village  without  a  railroad 
is  Cupertino  (West-side),  some  five  miles  from  Sunnyvale  and  eight  miles  from  San 
Jose. 

Just  west  of  Campbell  a  narrow-gauge  branch  runs  southward  ten  miles  to 

New  Allliaden.  The  Almaden  quicksilver  mines  have  been  described  else- 
where.    The  land  along  the  branch  is  a  fertile  orchard,  vineyard,  and  hay  country. 

.Le  Franc.  Is  a  wine-shipping  point,  and  the  station  for  the  Gaudalupe  quick- 
silver mines  in  the  canon  of  that  name,  famous  long  ago  as  quicksilver  producers- 
They  are  once  again  the  scene  of  activity.  Water  is  being  pumped  from  manv  miles 
of  levels,  and  a  hundred  men  will  soon  be  at  work  five  hundred  feet  below  the  earth's 
surface. 

Campbell.  Four  miles  southwest  of  San  Jose,  on  the  narrow-gauge  main  line 
five  miles  northeast  of  Los  Gatos,  is  the  model  village  of  Campbell. 

With  its  park,  public  library,  churches,  grammar  and  high  schools,  with  its 
broad  streets,  shaded  with  pepper,  olive,  acacia,  umbrella,  and  English  walnut  trees, 
Campbell  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  of  residence  communities.  Its  population  of 
seven  hundred  and  fifty  is  increasing  largely  because  of  its  attractions  as  a  home 
town. 

Its  industrial  establishments  include  a  large  cannery,  an  immense  co-operative 
dried  fruit-packing  establishment,  and  another  packing-house.  The  village  is  in 
the  center  of  an  unsurpassed  orchard  district 

At  San  Jose  the  narrow-gauge  main  line  joins  the  broad-gauge  line  and  con- 
tinues with  it  to  Santa  Tiara  (both  San  Jose  and  Santa  Clara  have  been  described 
elsewhere).  It  should  be  noted  that  a  third-rail,  giving  broad-gauge  service,  extends 
from  San  Jose  to  Los  Gatos. 

To  Alameda  Pier  the  narrow-gauge  railway  follows  the  eastern  shore  of  San 
Frani  isco  Bay,  paralleling  the  broad-gauge  Niles  route,  which  is  further  inland.    The 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  269 

towns  of  the  Niles  route  are  described  elsewhere,  but  it  may  not  be  amiss 
to  say  of  those  near  San  Jose  that  Milpitas  is  a  lively  town  in  a  rich  fruit  and  vege- 
table district,  with  a  large  cannery.  Warm  Springs  and  [rvington  are  also  sur- 
rounded by  dairy,  vegetable,  and  fruit  sections  of  great  wealth,  and  Irvington 
is  as  well  an  educational  center,  and  the  station  for  the  historic  old  mission  of 
San  Jose. 

AgneWS.  Five  miles  from  San  Jose  is  the  seal  of  an  asylum  for  the  insane. 
Recently  a  large  plant  for  the  manufacture  of  alcohol  from  refuse  molasses  from 
sugar  factories  has  been  built.  The  town  is  famous  for  its  seed,  its  apples,  Bartlett 
pears,  berries,  asparagus,  and  other  vegetables.  One  orchard  of  forty  acres  in  pears, 
yielding  ten  thousand  dollars  in  one  crop  (1899).  The  population  of  the  town  is 
about  two  hundred. 

Alviso.  Eight  miles  from  San  Jose,  on  a  slough  from  San  Fran<  is<  0  Bay,  is  San 
Jose's  "seaport."  Here  is  the  gathering-place  of  the  South  Bay  Yacht  Club.  There 
are  row-boats  to  be  had,  and  the  marshes  afford  fine  duck-hunting.  All  along  this 
part  of  the  narrow-gauge  line  are  gun-club  houses  and  preserves.  The  ducks  come 
here  by  the  thousands  in  autumn  and  winter.  The  tributary  section  is  rich  in 
vegetables  and  berries. 

Passing  Mowry  we  reach 

Newark.  The  town  is  a  pretty  place,  built  on  a  part  of  the  grant  of  the  San  Jose 
Mission  (1776).  Fruit  of  all  kinds  does  well,  and  there  is  a  large  and  increasing 
output  of  asparagus,  onions,  and  tomatoes.  The  soil  is  very  rich.  Land  is  worth 
here,  as  elsewhere,  in  the  lower  valley  from  sixty  to  two  hundred  dollars  per  acre. 
There  are  both  high  school  and  lower  grades.  The  population  is  about  seven  hun- 
dred. 

Newark  is  a  manufacturing  point  of  importance,  with  two  stove-foundries,  car- 
building  shops,  Southern  Pacific  repair  shops,  salt-works,  planing-mill,  etc. 

Centerville.  In  the  center  of  the  valley,  is  about  three  miles  from  Niles, 
Decoto,  and  Newark,  and  is  reached  from  the  last  named  point  by  a  Southern  Pacific 
combined  street-car  and  freight-car  system,  probably  not  met  with  elsewhere.  The 
old  town  is  a  progressive,  pretty  place  of  five  hundred  people,  and  is  rich  in  fruit, 
grain,  hay,  and  vegetables.     It  has  a  good  old-fashioned  countrv  inn. 

Alvsirado.  Has  a  population  of  about  nine  hundred,  of  which  the  beet-sugar 
factory  and  the  foundry  employ  the  majority.  The  land  hereabouts  is  very  valuable, 
and  raises  vegetables,  sugar-beets,  and  small  fruits  to  perfection.  The  salt  industrv 
is  growing  in  importance. 

Mount  Eden.  Is  another  place  of  value  in  the  way  of  vegetables,  small  fruits, 
hay,  and  grain.  It  should  be  noted  that  these  narrow-gauge-line  villages  along  the 
bay  shore  have  an  unsurpassed  climate  summer  and  winter. 

Russell,  West  San  Lorenzo,  West  San  Leandro.     Russell  is  a 

vegetable  and  berry  shipping  station,  while  West  San  Lorenzo  and  West  San 
Leandro  are  narrow-gauge  shipping-stations  for  the  fertile  fruit  and  vegetable 
districts  that  have  their  home  centers  nearer  the  hills. 

Alameda  Point.  Is  a  ship-building  and  water-shipping  station  south  of 
Alameda.     It  has  water-front  facilities  of  increasing  value. 

Alameda,  which  is  from  thirty-three  minutes'  to  forty-eight  minutes'  ride,  ac- 
cording to  station,  from  San  Francisco,  is  chiefly  a  home  place  for  business  people  of 
San  Francisco,  who  by  the  thousand  travel  back  and  forth  each  day  on  the  Southern 
Pacific  Ferry  boats  and  trains,  running  every  fifteen  minutes,  alternating  broad  and 
narrow  gauge  trains,  which  service  is  also  given  the  neighboring  suburban  cities  of 


270  OVER   THE  RANGE 

Oakland,  Berkeley,  and  Fruitvale,  so  that  the  whole  eastern  mainland  shore  is  the 
home  of  many  thousands  of  people,  who  gain  their  living  in  San  Francisco. 

Alameda  has  a  population  of  about  eighteen  thousand,  and  is  noted  for  its  mag- 
nificent streets,  houses,  and  even  climate. 

On  the  bay  shore  are  several  pretty  beaches,  and  in  the  summer  the  high-tide 
coming  in  over  the  warm  sand  furnishes  ideal  bathing.  The  climate  is  milder  than 
that  of  the  city,  freer  from  fog  and  wind,  a  little  warmer,  and  altogether  very  pleasant. 
The  soil  is  fertile,  and  that  accounts  largely  for  the  forest  of  trees  that  overhangs  the 
streets,  the  endless  flower-gardens,  and  bright  lawns.  The  city  has  forty  miles  of 
cement  sidewalks.  The  streets  are  all  good.  No  city  in  the  country  has  any  finer 
boulevards.  The  land  is  level  as  if  rolled.  For  bicycles  and  automobiles  Alameda 
streets  are  unsurpassed. 

Alameda  has  bath-houses  for  hot  and  cold  salt  water  bathing  along  the  pictur- 
esque bay  shore.  In  the  opposite  direction  electric  cars  and  boulevards  lead  off  to 
the  hills  about  Mills  Seminary  and  Leona  Heights,  Diamond  and  Redwood  Canons. 
Lake  Chabot  and  Castro  Valley  are  destinations  of  pleasant  pleasure  trips. 

The  city  owns  its  electric-light  plant.  The  public  library  has  twenty-four  thou- 
sand volumes.  The  schools  are  of  the  best  in  the  state,  the  high-school  bearing  a 
wide  reputation  for  excellence.  The  sewerage  and  drainage  systems  are  perfect, 
and  good  water  is  obtained  from  artesian  wells.  Fifteen  miles  of  electric  lines 
traverse  the  streets.  Churches,  banks,  business  houses,  etc.,  are  in  keeping  with 
the  city's  other  characteristics. 

Alameda  Mole.  Is  the  bay  terminus  of  the  narrow-gauge  railway.  Here  the 
trains  meet  the  ferry-boats  plying  between  the  Mole  and  the  Union  Ferry  Depot. 
San  Francisco. 


TO   THE   YOSEMITE. 


O  one  who  visits  San  Francisco  can  afford  to  return  home  without 
siring  nature's  great  temple  of  wonders — the  Yosemite.  The  way 
thither  has  been  greatly  smoothed  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad, 
and  each  succeeding  year  sees  improvements  in  this  direction. 
What  was  formerly  an  undertaking  of  considerable  magnitude  and 
difficulty,  has  now  become  an  easy  journey,  and  one  fraught  with 
pleasure.  It  is  only  a  vacation  jaunt,  requiring  four  days  to  make  the  round  trip. 
The  valley  is  259  miles  from  San  Francisco,  178  miles  to  Berenda,  on  the  route 
already  described  in  the  trip  to  Los  Angeles,  thence  twenty-one  miles  by  rail  to 
Raymond,  and  sixty  miles  by  stage  to  the  valley.  It  is  now  all  rail  to  the  foot- 
hills of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  where  the  traveler  is  transferred  to  the  most 
approved  pattern  of  stages  (or  carriages,  really),  and  is  delightfully  whirled  up 
into  the  Land  of  Wonders  over  an  excellent  road,  through  giant  timber,  across 
ice-cold  rivulets,  and  past  cataracts  which  send  their  spray  into  the  sunlight,  em- 
bellished with  the  colors  of  the  rainbow.  Mr.  Ben  C.  Truman,  the  veteran  trav- 
eler and  writer  of  the  Pacific  coast,  speaks  as  follows  concerning  this  wonderland: 
"Some  few  years  ago  we  visited  the  Yosemite  in  company  with  a  gentleman  who 
had  traveled  largely,  and  who  had  written  much  of  the  scenic  attractions  of  Europe, 
Asia,  and  America,  and  who  exclaimed,  as  we  reached  'Inspiration  Point':  'My 
God!  self-convicted  as  a  spendthrift  in  words,  the  only  terms  applicable  to  this 
spot  I  have  wasted  on  minor  scenes.'  And  it  was  unfortunately  true,  that  language 
failed  to  give  adequate  utterance  to  the  emotion  of  my  friend  upon  that  occasion, 
and  his  hitherto  facile  pen  failed  to  perform  its  functions  with  its  characteristic 
felicity  and  brilliancy.  This  has  been  the  case  with  many,  however,  if  not  with 
all  others;  and  thus  the  pre-eminent  grandeur  and  magnificence  of  the  Yosemite 
remains,  after  all,  untold.  Indeed  its  charms  must  really  be  seen  and  felt,  for  it 
is  an  absolute  fact  that  neither  pencil  nor  brush  nor  photographic  process  can 
give  them  faithful  portraiture." 

The  Yosemite  Valley  is  about  150  miles,  in  an 
almost  easterly  direction,  from  San  Francisco,  and 
nearly  midway  of  the  state  between  the  northern 
and  southern  boundaries.  It  was  for  many  vcars 
the  rendezvous,  or  permanent  abiding  place,  of  hos- 
tile Indians,  who  had  a  legend  for  every  point  of 
interest,  whether  of  water  or  rock.  The  place  was 
first  seen  in  1850  by  a  number  of  white  men  who 
had  formed  themselves  into  a  military  company  to 
punish  or  compel  peace  with  bands  of  murderous  Indians.  It  was  taken  posses- 
sion of  in  March,  185 1,  by  an  expedition  under  the  command  of  Captain  Boling, 
which  invaded  the  oboriginal  stronghold,  killed  several  of  its  defenders,  and  cither 
stampeded  or  compelled  peace  with  the  rest.  The  valley  is  some  fifteen  miles 
long  by  about  one-third  of  that  distance  in  width,  and  is  undoubtedly  the  most  won- 

271 


YOSEMITE. 

A  Valley  of  Wonders. 

The  Climax 

of 

Grandeur  and  Beauty. 

■'/ 


EL  CAPITAN,  YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  273 

derful  combination  of  chasm  and  dome,  cliff  and  canon,  mountain  and  valley, 
river  and  waterfall,  cataract  and  streamlet,  winter  and  summer,  and  sunshine  and 
shadow,  to  be  seen  in  the  world — especially  within  a  radius  of  eight  or  ten  miles. 
Among  the  most  noted  and  majestic  elevations,  which  rise  right  up  vertically, 
many  of  these  seeming  like  hewn  rock,  are:  El  Capitan,  3,300  feet  above  the  floor 
of  the  valley;  Cathedral  Rock,  2,660  feet  above  the  valley;  Three  Brothers,  3,830 
feet;  The  Sentinel,  3,043  feet,  with  cascades  of  3,000  feet  fall;  Washington  Col- 
umn, 1,875  feet;  Dome  and  Royal  Arches,  3,568  feet,  down  which  descends  a  cat- 
aract of  1,000  feet;  the  Half  Dome,  4,737  feet;  Cloud's  Rest,  6,150  feet;  Glacier 
Point,  3,200;  Sentinel  Dome,  4,150;  Eagle  Point,  4,200,  and  many  others  of  greater 
or  less  altitudes.  The  most  noted  waterfalls  are  the  Yosemite,  which  first  dis- 
plays an  unbroken  descent  1,500  feet,  then  600  feet  of  partly  hidden  cataracts, 
and  a  final  leap  of  400  feet,  2,526  in  all;  Bridal  Veil,  900  feet;  Vernal  Falls,  400, 
and  Nevada  Falls,  600  feet.  There  are  many  other  points  of  interest,  conspicu- 
ous among  which  are  the  Merced  River,  Mirror  Lake,  and  romantic  drives  and 
climbs  without  number.  There  are  a  number  of  good  hotels  in  the  valley  and 
tourists  are  driven  right  up  to  their  doors.  The  best  time  for  visiting  the  falls  is 
from  the  first  of  April  until  the  end  of  July,  but  it  is  accessible  until  the  snows  of 
November  close  up  its  means  of  ingress  and  egress  for  several  months. 

The  Kig"  Trees.  Thirty-five  miles  from  Raymond  is  the  Wawona 
Hotel  (formerly  Clark's),  one  of  the  most  exquisite  spots  in  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
There  is  an  abundance  of  game  near  by,  such  as  bear,  deer  (in  great  plenty),  moun- 
tain quail,  grouse,  and  smaller  game,  while  the  adjacent  streams  abound  in  trout. 
It  is  from  this  hotel  that  tourists  make  their  pilgrimage  to  the  Mariposa  Big  Tree 
Grove,  which  is  six  miles,  and  is  made  in  a  carriage,  and  for  which  there  is  no  extra 
charge  for  those  holding  through  tickets  to  and  from  the  Yosemite  Valley.  In 
this  mighty  grove  there  may  be  seen  a  large  number  of  trees  more  than  300  feet 
in  height,  and  varying  from  50  to  93  feet  in  circumference,  according  to  Professor 
Whitney's  official  measurement. 

The  Calaveras  Grove,  which  was  the  first  one  discovered  (by  a  hunter 
named  A.  T.  Dowd,  in  1852),  has  a  magnificent  lot  of  mammoth  trees,  also  pierc- 
ing the  clouds  at  heights  exceeding  300  feet,  and  measuring  80,  go,  and  100  feet 
around  at  the  ground.  Most  of  these  have  marble  slabs  containing  the  names  of 
distinguished  soldiers,  navigators,  statesmen,  poets,  travelers,  and  authors.  The 
Calaveras  Grove  is  131  miles  from  San  Francisco  by  rail,  and  44  by  stage,  175 
miles  in  all.  The  Mammoth  Grove  Hotel  has  been  lately  enlarged,  and  can  now 
accommodate  one  hundred  guests.  There  is  a  post-office,  express  and  telegraph 
office  at  the  hotel.  It  faces  the  grove,  having  the  greater  number  of  trees  to  the 
left,  looking  from  the  veranda,  and  the  two  sentinels  immediately  in  the  front, 
about  two  hundred  yards  to  the  eastward.  The  valley  in  which  the  hotel  is  situ- 
ated contains  of  the  Sequoia  trees,  ninety-three,  not  including  those  of  from  one 
to  ten  years'  growth. 

The  sequoia  is  a  representative  of  a  family  of  trees,  related  to  the  cypresses,  which 
has  survived  from  a  time  more  ancient  than  almost  any  other  family  of  trees. 
Its  nearest  relative  is  in  Japan.  The  name  was  given  by  the  botanist,  Asa  Gray 
in  honor  of  Sequoyah,  the  Cherokee  chieftain.  Besides  the  S.  gigantea,  there  is 
still  another  species,  the  S.  semperuirens,  which  exists  in  forests  along  the  seaward 
side  of  the  Coast  Range  from  San  Francisco  Bay  northward  for  over  100  miles. 
It  is  these  forests  which  furnish  the  celebrated  redwood  lumber.  Many  specimens 
of  the  redwood  rival  their  big  cousins  near  Yosemite  in  size,  and  the  whole  forest 
will  average  250  feet  in  height,  where  full  grown. 


FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  THE  GREAT 
NORTHWEST. 


LONG  reach  of  most  interesting  country  lies  between  San  Francisco 
and  Portland,  Oregon.  Seven  hundred  and  seventy-two  miles  in- 
tervene between  the  two  great  cities,  and  it  is  our  purpose  to  take  the 
reader  with  us  on  this  journey.  There  are  two  routes  by  rail,  and  of 
course  the  ocean  highway  is  open  to  all  who  wish  to  go  by  steamer. 
The  rail  routes  are  east  of  the  Sacramento  River  to  Tehama,  and 
west  of  the  river  to  the  same  point,  213  miles  from  San  Francisco,  where  the  two  lines 
form  a  junction.  The  route  generally  taken  is  that  east  of  the  river,  and  this  is 
the  route  chosen  for  our  journey.  From  San  Francisco  we  return  on  the  Overland 
route  (by  which  we  entered  the  city),  as  far  as  Roseville,  eighteen  miles  beyond 
Sacramento.  Here  we  turn  northward,  leaving  the  main  line  behind  us,  and  are 
fairly  embarked  on  our  journey  to  the  great  northwest. 

Lincoln  is  a  small  manufacturing  town,  where  great  quantities  of  pottery 
and  sewer  pipe  arc  made.  (Population,  1,100;  distance  from  San  Francisco,  11S 
miles;  elevation,  167  feet.) 

Passing  through  Ewing  and  Sheridan,  small  villages  surrounded  by  grazing 
lands,  we  come  to 

Wheatland.  Fitly  named,  it  being  in  the  center  of  a  fine  wheat  region. 
The  town  is  well  built,  and  has  the  usual  complement  of  good  business  houses, 
churches,  schools,  etc.  (Population,  600;  distance  from  San  Francisco,  129  miles; 
elevation,  90  feet.) 

The  Yuba  River.  Leaving  Wheatland,  we  are  soon  crossing  the  bot- 
tom lands  of  what  the  latest  maps  call  the  Bear  River,  but  which  "old  timers" 
know  as  the  Yuba,  a  name  which,  it  seems  to  us,  should  by  all  means  be  retained. 
The  Yuba  here  is  a  vagrant  stream,  inclined  to  "spread  itself"  entirely  too  much 
for  the  convenience  and  comfort  of  the  farmers;  hence,  it  has  been  confined  within 
great  dykes,  which  extend  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach  up  and  down  the  river.  The  road  crosses 
the  bottoms  on  trestle  work. 

This  thriving  place  is  the  leading  town  of  north- 
ern California,  the  depot  for  the  product  of  Yuba 
and  Sutter  counties,  and  is  situated  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  Feather  River,  and  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Yuba.  It  has  a  population  of  5,000.  It  is 
known  throughout  California  as  being  the  neatest 
built  city  in  the  state.  Splendid  business  blocks, 
fine  residences,  magnificent  gardens,  where  flowers 
bloom  the  year  round;  best  of  schools  and  acad- 
emies, eight  churches,  large  manufacturing  interests,  flour  mills,  finest  woolen 
mill  in    the  state,  fruit  cannery,  iron  foundry,  etc.      The  city  is  lighted  by  gas 

275 


MARYSVILLE. 

Flourishing 

Commercial  City. 

County-Seat  of  Yuba 

County. 

Population,  5,000. 

Distance  from  San 

Francisco,  142  Miles. 

Elevation,  66  Feet. 


276  OVER    THE  RANGE 

and  electricity.  The  water  supply  is  considered  the  best  in  the  state.  The 
trade  of  Marysville  to-day  is  greater  than  any  town  north  of  Sacramento.  It  is 
the  trade  center  for  a  large  country  outside  of  Yuba  County.  It  enjoys  the  trade 
of  all  Yuba  and  Sutter,  and  part  of  Butte,  Colusa,  Sierra,  Placer,  and  Nevada  coun- 
ties. In  addition  to  excellent  natural  facilities,  steamers  and  barges  ply  on  the 
river,  carrying  freight  to  and  from  San  Francisco.  It  is  one  of  the  junctional  points 
of  the  railroad.  In  climate,  Marysville  cannot  be  excelled.  No  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold,  but  a  pleasant,  equable  temperature,  equal  to,  if  not  the  superior  of, 
the  climate  of  Italy.  Epidemic  diseases  of  any  kind  never  obtain  a  footing  here; 
Marysville  has  been  singularly  free  from  such  afflictions.     With  the  fast-increasing 


SIR  JOSEPH   HOOKER  OAK,   CHICO  VECINO. 
29  Feet  in  Circumference. 

tide  of  immigration,  which  is  now  turning  to  California,  and  with  the  new  and 
varied  industries  which  are  now  springing  up  here,  as  the  producing  power  of  the 
lands  are  becoming  known,  Marysville  will,  in  a  short  space  of  time  no  doubt,  be 
one  of  the  leading  towns  of  California.  Frosts  are  very  rare,  and  when  they  do 
occur  very  little  damage  to  vegetation  results,  owing  to  the  great  dryness  of  the 
atmosphere.  The  same  characteristics  also  make  life  very  enjoyable,  and  render 
this  section  one  of  the  healthiest  in  the  state.  At  Marysville  a  profitable  side-trip 
may  be  taken  to  Oroville. 

Oroville  is  situated  on  the  Feather  River,  28  miles  from  Marysville.  It 
is  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Oroville  branch  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  which  runs 
from  Marysville,  28  miles  to  the  north.  The  town  is  well  built,  the  business  build- 
ings being  of  brick,  and  the  residences  are  almost  universally  neat  and  handsome, 
surrounded  with  lawns  set  with  a  wealth  of  flowers,  palms,  and  blooming  orange- 
trees.  The  church  and  school  facilities  are  all  that  could  be  desired  There  is 
abundant  water-power  awaiting  the  establishment  of  manufactories,  and  a  flour- 
ing mill  and  a  large  sash  and  door  factory  are  now  in  operation.     But  the  glory 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  277 

of  Ororille  is  mainly  in  the  region  about  it.  The  western  part  of  Butte  County, 
near  the  Sacramento  River,  is  level;  the  eastern  part  includes  the  western  slope  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  while  the  central  portion  consists  of  low  foothills 
gradually  increasing  in  altitude  as  the  mountains  are  ncarcd.  This  strip  of  sloping 
foothills,  twenty  miles  in  width,  consists  of  a  rich  gravelly  soil,  remarkably  pro- 
ductive. The  climate  of  this  region,  which  Is  known  as  the  "Thermal  Belt,"  is  of 
peculiar  salubrity,  being  milder  both  in  winter  and  summer  than  in  the  lower  por- 
tion of  the  valley,  and  resembling  that  of  the  most  favored  countries  about  the 
Mediterranean  Sea.  The  summer's  heat  is  here  tempered  to  an  even  mildness, 
and  in  the  winter  the  formation  of  thin  ice  in  the  open  air  is  of  rare  occurrence. 
Snow  is  a  natural  curiosity,  and  outdoor  work  is  uninterrupted  the  year  round. 
The  average  rainfall  is  about  twenty-two  inches.  Experiment  has  shown  that 
the  conditions  of  climate  and  soil  make  this  region  the  natural  home  of  the  orange, 
olive,  lemon,  fig,  and  other  semi-tropical  fruits,  while  all  the  known  deciduous  fruits, 
including  the  hardy  apple,  flourish  and  yield  in  unsurpassed  abundance.  The 
country  about  Oroville  is  undoubtedly  the  greatest  fruit-producing  region  in  the 
state,  offering  great  inducements  to  settlers,  while  it  is  equally  wealthy  in  a  great 
variety  of  other  resources. 

Returning  to  Marysville,  we  resume  our  northward  flight,  the  Sacramento 
Valley  being  on  our  left,  while  the  Valley  of  the  Rio  de  Los  Plumas,  or,  as  it  is  now 
popularly  called,  the  Feather  River  Valley,  is  on  our  right.  Following  this  course 
we  pass  through  Gridley,  Biggs,  Nelson,  Durham,  and  arrive  at 

The  largest  town  in  Butte  County,  Chico,  situ- 


CHICO. 

An  Ideal  Residence 

City. 
Population,  4,000. 

Distance 
from  San  Francisco, 

186  Miles. 
Elevation,  193  Feet. 


ated  on  Chico  Creek,  five  miles  from  the  Sacra- 
mento River.  Chico  is  the  centre  of  the  finest  agri- 
cultural portion  of  the  county — perhaps  the  finest 
in  the  State.  The  famous  "Rancho  Chico"  prop- 
erty of  Gen.  John  Bidwell  adjoins  the  town  on  the 
north,  the  rich  and  varied  fruits  of  which  have  at- 
tracted such  marked  attention  at  all  fairs  and  expo- 
sitions throughout  the  United  States.  Chico  Creek 
is  a  clear  and  beautiful  mountain  stream,  flowing 
sufficient  water  all  the  year  to  supply  power  for  General  Bidwell's  large  flour  mill, 
until  its  capacity  was  so  enlarged  as  to  require  the  supplemental  aid  of  steam. 
Steamers  run  on  the  Sacramento  River  to  Chico  Landing  and  points  above,  carry- 
ing immense  quantities  of  grain  to  the  bay  on  barges.  Chico  is  a  beautiful  city, 
and  its  population  is  principally  American,  agriculture  and  its  adjunct  employ- 
ments being  the  chief  elements  of  its  life.  But  it  has  also  tributary  to  it  a  fine  mining 
region,  up  Butte  Creek,  and  an  immense  lumber  region  to  the  east  and  north. 
In  this  latter  there  are  five  or  six  large  mills  at  work.  A  V-flume  comes  to  the  city 
from  the  mountains,  in  which  the  lumber  is  floated  from  the  mills  to  the  town,  so 
rapidly  that  a  few  years  ago  a  beam  of  timber  was  sawn  in  the  mill,  thirty  miles 
away,  flumed  to  Chico,  drawn  through  the  town  to  the  water-works  building,  fitted 
for  its  purpose  and  wrought  into  the  building,  all  within  the  working  hours  of  a 
single  day.  Chico  has  a  regular  town  government,  with  police  officers  and  an  ex- 
cellent fire  department.  It  has  gas  and  water-works,  and  is  supplied  with  electric 
light.  There  are  two  banks,  i"n  flourishing  condition.  Seven  churches,  repre- 
senting as  many  denominations,  adorn  the  city;  a  state  normal  school  and  large 
and  elegant  public  school  buildings  and  private  academies  are  filled  with  students. 
The  streets  are  wide,  well  kept,  and  shaded.     Very  many  private  residences  are 


278  OVER   THE  RANGE 

large  and  handsome,  and  the  homes  of  the  people  all  indicate  intelligence  and  com- 
fort. 

CllicO  Vecino.  This  is  an  attractive  suburb  of  Chico,  included  within  the 
boundaries  of  the  well-known  "Rancho  Chico."  There  are  one  thousand  acres  in 
the  town  site,  the  plat  of  which  has  been  laid  off  in  five-acre  tracts.  Here  there 
soon  will  be  one  of  those  delightful  fruit-raising  colonies  for  which  California  is 
becoming  famous.  From  Chico  to  Tehama  we  roll  along  through  a  fine  fruit 
and  agricultural  country,  passing  the  stations  of  Nord  and  Vina. 

Tehama  is  the  junction  of  the  Willows  branch  of  the  Southern  Pacific- 
Railroad  with  the  main  line.  It  is  situated  in  a  good  wheat-growing  country  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  Sacramento  River,  and  here  irrigation  is  not  found  necessary 
for  the  production  of  crops.  The  olive  does  magnificently  here,  and  the  sugar- 
beet  bids  fair  to  make  a  profitable  crop.  A  sugar  factory  is  in  contemplation. 
Stock-raising  and  lumbering  are  large  tributary  industries.  (Population,  700; 
distance  from  San  Francisco,  213  miles;  elevation,  222  feet.) 

Seven  miles  beyond  Tehama  we  pass  through  Rawson,  and  five  miles  farther 
on  reach 

Red  Bluff,  the  county-seat  of  Tehama  County,  which  is  one  of  the  most 
thriving  towns  of  the  state,  with  a  population  of  3,000.  It  is  a  growing  town  in 
one  of  the  richest  sections,  and  it  has  an  elevated  and  sightly  location.  Its  streets 
are  wide  and  well  graded,  lighted  by  electricity,  and  there  is  no  place  in  the 
United  States  better  drained.  The  Sacramento  River  here  is  a  clear,  rapid 
stream,  lined  with  beautiful  trees  and  vines.  On  all  the  three  other  sides 
there  are  ravines  or  valleys  through  which  streams  run,  which  give  the  perfec- 
tion of  drainage.  Its  public  and  business  buildings  are  fine  architectural 
structures,  and  its  private  residences  are  nowhere  excelled  for  taste,  elegance 
and  the  beauty  and  the  wealth  of  their  floral  surroundings.  The  streets  are 
lined  with  poplar,  elm,  white  maple,  locust,  acacia  and  pepper  trees,  which 
will  soon  make  a  veritable  forest  city.  There  are  also  many  fine  residences.  Te- 
hama County  is  the  great  grain-growing  county  of  the  state,  8,000,000  bushels  of 
wheat  and  2,500,000  bushels  of  barley  have  been  harvested  in  one  season  from  its 
fertile  lands.  Tehama  has  about  400,000  sheep,  which  produce  2,500,000  pounds 
of  wool  annually.  The  numbers  of  cattle,  horses,  mules,  and  swine  are  large.  In 
this  county  the  celebrated  Vina  Ranch  is  located,  embracing  56,000  acres,  a  princeh 
property,  which,  through  the  unexampled  generosity  of  Senatoi  and  Mrs.  Stanford, 
has  become  the  heritage  of  the  children  and  of  the  coming  generations  of  the  Pacific 
coast.  (Population,  3,000;  distance  from  San  Francisco,  225  miles;  elevation, 
307  feet.) 

The  grade  is  now  steadily  upward,  as  we  press  onward  in  our  journey.  From 
Red  Bluff  to  Sissons,  a  distance  of  113  miles,  we  make  an  ascent  of  3,245  feet. 
Through  a  broken  country,  and  crossing  a  number  of  rapidly  flowing  creeks,  we 
pass  through  Cottonwood,  and  arrive  at 

AndeTSOn,  which  is  a  beautiful  and  very  lively  town  of  1,000  inhabitants. 
It  lies  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  Sacramento  River,  12  miles  south  of  Redding, 
and  222  miles  north  of  Sacramento.  The  town  is  attractively  laid  out,  with  wide, 
well-shaded  streets,  lined  with  cozy  and  beautiful  homes.  The  leading  hotel  in 
the  place  is  a  fine  one,  costing  $20,000.  There  are  fine  schools,  the  usual  churches, 
a  fine  roller  flouring  mill,  good,  substantial  brick  business  buildings,  water-works, 
furnishing  an  abundant  supply  of  pure  water  from  the  mountains,  besides  many 
other  evidences  of  enterprise  and  progress.     The  semi-tropical  climate  of  the  Sac- 


2 So  OVER   THE  RANGE 

ramcnto  Valley  generally  prevails  in  the  region  about  Anderson,  which  is  noted 
for  its  healthfulness.  The  summers  are  rather  warm,  though  dry,  and  the  mercury 
rarely  reaches  105  degrees,  85  degrees  being  about  the  average.  The  winter,  or 
rainy  season,  is  delightful,  and  resembles  April  or  May  in  the  Eastern  states.  (Pop- 
ulation, 1,000;  distance  from  San  Francisco,  248  miles;  elevation,  432  feet.) 

Redding".  No  town  of  northern  California  has  a  more  promising  future, 
and  exhibits  at  the  present  time  more  enterprise,  activity,  and  rapidity  of  growth 
than  Redding,  in  the  southwestern  part  of  Shasta  County,  of  which  it  is  the  county- 
seat.  It  is  at  the  upper  end  of  the  great  Sacramento  Valley,  230  miles  north  of 
Sacramento,  and  is  built  on  a  plateau  on  the  bank  of  the  Sacramento  River,  here  a 
clear  mountain  stream  which  sweeps  around  the  town  to  the  east  and  south.  No 
town  in  the  state  has  a  more  charming  and  picturesque  location.  The  brief  history 
of  Redding  is  one  of  rapid  progress,  and  never  has  it  been  more  marked  than  now. 
Its  population  has  increased  from  500,  in  1883,  to  over  3,000  at  the  present  time,  and 
with  the  rapid  development  of  the  county  and  the  vast  territory  that  is  tributary  to 
Redding,  extending,  in  some  directions,  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  a  rapid  and  con- 
tinued growth  is  assured.  The  city  has  water  and  gas  works,  a  great  variety 
of  manufactories,  many  important  buildings,  a  fine  court-house  and  jail,  two  news- 
papers, good  schools,  and  several  churches.  The  river  here  affords  fine  water- 
power,  and  the  lumber  interests  of  the  country  tributary  to  Redding  are  immense. 
The  future  of  this  lively  place  depends  largely  on  the  development  of  the  country 
about  it;  and  with  the  great  variety  of  soil,  climate,  and  products,  the  thousands 
of  acres  of  cheap,  unoccupied  lands  that  only  await  intelligent  cultivation  to  yield 
great  profits,  and  with  the  other  almost  inexhaustible  resources  which  the  country 
possesses,  there  can  be  no  question  on  this  point.  During  the  past  few  years  the 
country  has  made  rapid  strides,  many  settlers  have  invested,  building  has  amounted 
almost  to  a  boom,  new  industries  started,  and  thousands  of  acres  of  orchards  and 
vineyards  have  been  planted.  No  part  of  California  offers  such  inducements 
to  the  farmer,  the  laboring  man,  the  capitalist,  or  the  home-seeker  as  Shasta  County. 
There  is  a  delightful  semi-tropical  climate  in  the  valleys  and  plateaus  of  the  south, 
and  a  gradual  change  is  noted  as  higher  altitudes  are  reached,  that  of  the  moun- 
tains resembling  the  New  England  states.  The  climate  of  the  southern  portion 
of  the  county  is  indicated  by  the  fact  that  orange-trees  nourish  and  bear  abund- 
antly. The  county  is  noted  for  the  number  and  beauty  of  its  clear,  sparkling 
streams,  which  burst  from  the  mountains  through  wild,  picturesque  canons,  and 
flow  onward  through  small,  fertile  valleys  of  great  beauty.  In  these  mountain 
streams  the  finest  trout  fishing  in  the  state  is  found.  (Population,  3,000;  distance 
from  San  Francisco,  260  miles;  elevation,  551  feet.) 

Keswick.  This  is  a  new  town  of  about  2,000  people,  brought  into  existence 
by  the  smelting  industry.  A  large  plant  is  erected  here,  owned  by  the  Mountain 
Copper  Company.  The  modern  methods  of  treating  ore  make  this  the  base  metal 
era,  and  smelters  are  coining  money.  This  stimulates  quartz-mining,  for  the  smel- 
ter must  have  a  certain  amount  of  ore  for  a  flux.  Three  large  smelting  plants  are 
at  work  in  this  vicinity,  and  towns  are  building,  population  growing,  and  markets 
active.  Trinity  County,  like  Shasta,  has  a  vast  territory  heavily  mineralized, 
while  the  former  has  also  extensive  gravel  deposits.  The  largest  hydraulic  mining 
property  in  the  world,  perhaps,  is  opening  now,  and  water  is  being  piped  over 
twenty  miles  of  almost  inaccessible  country.  An  immense  sum  was  paid  for  the 
acres  of  golden  gravel. 

Many  cozy  little   homes   arc   scattered   through   the   mountains.     The  farmer, 


TO   THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  2S1 

with  a  few  acres  of  fruit  and  a  little  field  for  grain  or  pasturage,  is  often  a  miner  also 
working  a  small  claim  at  intervals.  One  such,  three  or  four  years  ago,  struck  a 
pocket,  taking  out  about  $33,000  in  a  single  day.  That  is  one  of  the  possibilities 
which  make  mining  so  fascinating. 

THE    SHASTA    REGION. 

Tilt'  (anon.  We  return  from  prospecting  in  the  hills  and  resume  our  journey. 
We  are  now  in  the  canon  of  the  Sacramento,  creeping  along  the  breast  of  cliffs,  and 
through  tunnels,  and  crossing  and  recrossing  the  river,  amid  scenes  of  great  beauty 
and  sublimity.  From  Redding,  the  great  white  cone  of  Shasta  was  seen,  seeming  to 
rise  out  of  a  forested  horizon,  and  as  we  go  upward,  it  gleams  upon  the  sight  again 
and  again,  a  thing  of  beauty  and  of  majesty.  Its  glory  is  best  seen  at  a  distance  an 
from  below.  Then  its  dark  lavas  are  suffused  with  a  pale  rosy  glow,  its  white 
summit  outlined  softly  against  the  sky,  and  the  wide,  placid  sweep  of  its  base  is  full 
of  repose. 

Here  the  eastern  wall  beside  us  is  broken  by  a  rugged  canon,  and  the  McCloud 
River  comes  pouring  its  cold  flood  into  the  Sacramento.  Back  among  the  hills  it 
first  joins  the  Pitt  River,  and  the  two  streams,  swollen  by  many  mountain  springs, 
add  their  volume  to  the  Sacramento.  All  the  region  watered  by  the  streams  is 
wild  and  virgin.  It  is  a  district  full  of  fine  forest  trees,  with  many  deer  in  the 
depths  of  the  woods,  and  trout  in  the  icy  waters  of  the  streams.  The  Pitt  River 
cuts  its  way  from  the  volcanic  regions  of  the  northeast,  across  a  billowy  sea  of  hills, 
and  falls  toward  the  west  in  a  series  of  white  rapids.  The  McCloud  has  the  ice 
chill  of  Mt.  Shasta  upon  it,  and  has  worn  its  way  through  lava  rocks,  and  tumbled 
down  steep  gorges,  to  lose  itself  in  the  larger  stream  that  rolls  down  to  the  bay. 

The  Sacramento  is  muddy  and  sluggish  far  down  the  valley,  but  here  is  dear 
and  bright  and  turbulent,  rushing  and  foaming  among  the  rocks,  a  very  ideal  trout 
stream,  and  a  line  of  light  in  the  landscape. 

Sims.  This  was  a  sportsmen's  hotel  in  the  days  when  only  the  Oregon  stage 
woke  the  echoes  among  the  hills.  It  stands  back  from  the  station  among 
orchards  of  apples  and  other  fruits,  on  a  fine  plateau,  in  the  most  rugged  portion 
of  the  Sacramento  canon.  Trout,  game  in  its  season,  fruit  and  berries  fresh  from 
the  fields,  milk  and  butter  from  their  own  cows,  and  an  old-time  hospitalitv  make 
this  a  restful  place. 

Sweet  Brier,  Crag1  View,  Bailey's.  These  arc  camping-places  and 
hotels,  close  together,  in  a  very  attractive  part  of  the  canon.  The  fine  views,  the 
delightful  climate,  the  pure  water,  the  numberless  excursions  into  the  hills,  the 
wild  flowers,  the  luxuriant  ferns,  the  bathing  and  fishing,  make  these  resorts  vcrv 
popular  in  this  season. 

Castle  Crag'.  The  fine  hotel  here  was  burned  down  and  has  not  been  rebuilt, 
but  the  crags  remain  one  of  the  most  striking  rock  piles  of  any  countrv.  The 
buttresses  of  this  giant  structure  reach  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  canon,  and  the 
columns  and  minarets  of  gray,  steely  granite,  lifted  high  against  the  sky,  are  very 
impressive.  They  reach  an  altitude  of  four  thousand  feet,  and  easily  and  naturally 
suggest  the  towers  and  minarets  of  some  lofty  and  impregnable  castle  of  the  Middle 
Ages.  Back  of  these  splintered  peaks,  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  seven  thousand  feet, 
lies  Castle  Lake,  a  lonely  bit  of  crystal  water,  resting  in  its  granite  cup,  over  whose 
Up  the  wild  azalea  droops,  and  in  whose  depths  the  silvery  trout  Boats  like  a  shadow. 
The  lake  is  accessible  from  this  point  by  a  steep  trail,  or  farther  up  by  horseback. 


282  OVER    THE  RANGE 

Upper  Soda  Spring's.  Numerous  fine  soda  springs  are  found  in  tne  canon, 
and  this  is  one  of  the  most  noted.  It  is  an  old  and  homelike  place,  in  one  of  the 
wildest  and  most  picturesque  parts  of  the  canon.  Shasta  is  but  fifteen  miles  away, 
'the  fine  coniferous  forests,  full  of  splendid  sugar-pine,  spruce,  and  cedar,  and  here 
and  there,  on  sloping  mountain  sides  or  on  top  of  dividing  ridges,  lie  lovely  meadows 
the  wild  gardens  of  the  deer,  lush  with  grass  and  starred  with  flowers.  Nothing  is 
finer;  and  you  cannot  cross  one  of  these  forest-hidden  gardens  without  finding, 
perhaps  still  warm,  the  couch  of  the  red  deer,  or,  flaming  in  the  sunlight,  the  brown 
and  orange  spotted  tiger-lily,  or  a  bed  of  blue  and  white  violets  and  daisies.  The 
water  of  the  Soda  Springs  is  cold  and  palatable,  and  for  certain  diseases  very  bene- 
ficial. The  fish  commissioners  keep  the  river  stocked  with  salmon  and  trout,  and 
game  can  be  found  deep  in  the  solitude  of  the  hills. 

Shasta  Springs.  This  mineral  spring  is  but  a  few  steps  from  the  track  of 
the  Southern  Pacific,  and  is  a  regular  stopping-place  for  all  trains.  Everybody 
"drinks"  here,  and  many  fill  bottles  or  demijohns  for  later  refreshment.  The 
water  is  bottled  here  for  a  wide  market.  On  a  fine  plateau  above  the  springs  are 
cottages,  and  many  come  here  for  rest  and  the  benefits  hoped  for  from  the  water. 

Shasta  Retreat.  This  is  a  camping  spot,  grouped  about  a  magnificent 
spring,  pouring  out  a  great  volume  of  icy  water.  Several  fine  mineral  springs  are 
also  on  the  grounds,  and  Shasta  is  in  full  view.  Plants  and  flowers  grow  in  great 
profusion,  and  the  air  is  full  of  the  balsam  of  pine  and  spruce  and  fir.  The  retreat  is 
under  church  control,  and  has  a  tabernacle  for  public  services.  The  Chautauqua 
assembly  is  one  of  the  summer  attractions.  There  is  a  tavern  with  airy  rooms,  and 
comfortable  cottages. 

3Iott.  Here  a  fine  view  of  Shasta  is  obtained,  and  this  is  the  visual  center  for  all 
the  region.  The  lover  of  the  grand  and  beautiful  will  look  up  to  it  at  noonday,  pale 
and  shadowy  against  the  sky;  will  linger  at  evening  to  see  the  great  lava  cone  glow 
with  light,  when  the  canon  is  dark  with  the  gathering  gloom  of  night;  and  will  ever, 
"turn  out"  to  see  its  dark  head  outlined  at  dawn  amid  the  fading  stars,  or  strongly 
set  upon  the  arch  of  rose  which  heralds  the  coming  sun. 

Turning  the  glance  back  over  the  route  we  have  traveled,  the  slopes  of  the  great 
canon  are  seen,  and  the  outlying  cliffs  of  Castle  Crags,  while  to  the  west,  Scott  Moun- 
tain looms  up  in  majesty. 

Sissoil.  The  rambling,  picturesque,  and  homelike  hotel  long  known  as  "Sis- 
sons"  has  disappeared.  It  had  its  day,  and  many  a  sojourner  at  the  old,  romantic- 
inn  thinks  of  it  with  a  sigh  of  regret.  The  fame  of  the  place  was  widespread,  and  the 
old  homestead  was  enlarged,  and  patched,  and  added  to  from  year  to  year  until  it  had 
a  character  of  its  own,  and  was  as  original  in  appearance  as  it  was  homelike  in  the 
experience  of  its  guests.  Strawberry  Valley,  full  of  willows  and  brush,  became  a 
meadow,  with  a  background  of  dark  velvety  pines,  and  above  that  belt  of  green  rose 
the  white,  triple  cone  of  the  great  mountain.  It  was  worth  ten  years  of  common 
life  to  sit  on  the  veranda  at  Sisson  and  look  out  over  that  peaceful  mountain  meadow 
and  up  the  shining  slope  of  that 

"Burned-out  crater,  healed  with  snow," 

and  watch  the  play  of  light  on  granite  crag  or  lava  flow,  or  to  sit  in  the  sunlight  of 
Julv  and  see  a  snow-storm  raging  about  the  mountain  summit,  and  rain  falling  in 
the  valley  at  its  feet. 

The  railroad  is  here  now,  a  bustling  town  is  in  the  valley,  and  a  hundred  things 
have  changed.     But  the  new  "Sissons"  is  attractive  if  it  is  modern,  the  old-time 


SHASTA. 

The  Monarch  of  the 
Range. 

Altitude,  14,440  Feet 
Above  the  Sea. 

Local  Elevation, 
10,885  Feet. 


284  OVER    THE  RANGE 

hospitality  is  there,  and  the  mountain  is  unchanged.  A  delightful  summer  resort 
it  often  has  weeks  of  excellent  sleighing,  and  then  the  tavern  is  alive  with  guests 
from  the  city  to  whom  the  snow  and  the  sleigh-ride  is  a  novelty. 

As  we  near  Sisson,  Mount  Shasta,  of  which  we 
have  obtained  brief  glimpses  through  the  pines, 
bursts  into  full  view  in  all  its  sublime  magnificence. 
This  noted  snow-capped  peak  towers  to  the  height 
of  14,440  feet.  It  is  an  extinct  volcano,  and  its  snows 
and  glaciers  feed  hundreds  of  streams  which  thread 
the  wild  region  in  every  direction.  At  Sisson  is 
obtained  the  finest  view  of  Shasta,  and  it  is  the  only 
convenient  point  from  which  the  ascent  can  be  made. 
But  few  parties  succeed  in  reaching  the  summit,  and 
the  attempt  is  only  made  in  midsummer,  and  then 
with  trusty  guides.  The  feat  is  exciting,  but  the 
view  is  grand  beyond  description.  The  region  about  Shasta  is  a  paradise  for  the 
sportsman  and  the  lover  of  nature.  Grizzly,  black,  and  cinnamon  bears  abound, 
elk,  deer,  and  mountain  sheep  are  plenty,  as  well  as  a  great  variety  of  smaller  game. 
The  mountain  streams  teem  with  trout,  and  often  the  sport  loses  its  zest  through 
the  very  abundance  of  the  beauties.  The  McCloud  and  the  Pitt  Rivers  are  the 
most  noted  streams,  though  others  are  equally  attractive.  The  McCloud  runs 
through  the  most  uninhabited  and  unexplored  region  on  the  coast.  No  region  in 
the  state  is  so  delightful  for  camping,  and  hundreds  of  parties  go  there  every  year. 
At  Sisson,  camping  and  hunting  parties  can  be  provided  with  complete  outfits  at 
moderate  cost.  From  Redding  northward  the  Southern  Pacific  road  is  the  scenic 
route  of  California;  and  at  the  base  of  Mount  Shasta,  eighty  miles  north  of  Redding, 
the  acme  of  interest  is  reached.  While  there  are  many  places  in  California  replete 
with  beauty  and  grandeur,  there  are  none  which,  for  infinite  variety  of  scenery,  wild- 
ness,  and  abundance  of  everything  to  delight  the  sportsman,  artists  and  tourist, 
can  compare  with  the  region  about  Shasta. 

JVIllir's  Peak.  After  leaving  Sisson  we  circle  the  base  of  Muir's  Peak,  locally 
known  as  "Black  Butte,"  which  rises  to  a  perpendicular  height  of  three  thousand 
feet  above  our  heads.  It  is  black,  bare,  and  desolate — an  extinct  volcano,  with 
half  a  dozen  craters  in  plain  view. 

Upton.  Here  we  diverge  a  little,  taking  the  short  line  called  the  "McCloud 
River  Railroad."  It  is  chiefly  a  lumber  line,  penetrating  the  rich  forest  region  to  the 
east.  Of  old  time  we  went  from  Sissons  to  the  Big  Bend  in  a  stage-coach,  twenty- 
five  miles  of  delightful  ride.  Now  we  take  this  odd  "switch  back"  railway  and 
climb  the  grades  and  round  the  hills,  until  we  reach  McCIouds,  where  are  noisy 
mills  and  logging  trains  and  mountain  homes.  The  river,  a  few  miles  beyond,  is 
a  cjuiet  stream,  its  source  not  far  away  in  the  green  meadows  at  the  foot  of  Shasta 
on  the  east.  Its  mother  is  Mt.  Shasta,  and  it  wells  up  out  of  the  earth,  icy  cold. 
It  grows  rapidly,  a  hundred  rills  and  springs  adding  to  its  volume,  so  that  a  dozen 
miles  shows  a  broad  tumultuous  river,  dark  in  the  shadows  of  the  great  trees,  and 
gathering  strength  with  every  mile.  It  has  immense  attractions  for  the  nature- 
lover  and  the  sportsman.  The  noblest  trout  of  all  the  tribe,  the  "Dolly  Varden," 
lurks  in  this  dark  green  water,  wary  and  full  of  vigor.  Deer  and  bear  are  in  the 
wilder  regions,  where  the  mill  men  have  not  penetrated,  and  mountain  lions  are 
not  seldom  seen.  Fine  views  of  Shasta  are  obtained  as  one  climbs  along  the  trails. 
The  region  is  full  of  splendid  timber,  the  finest  sugar-pine  forests  of  the  state,  or  of 


TO   THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


*5 


any  state,  being  found  in  the  MrCIoud  Basin.  Going  northward  again,  toward 
Oregon,  we  note  the  lessening  forest  growth  until  we  reach 

EdgeWOOd.  The  name  is  suggestive.  It  is  literally  the  edge  of  the  forest. 
Thereafter,  climbing  to  the  Siskiyou  summit,  a  distance  of  twenty-live  miles,  there 
is  very  little  timber.  The  country  is  broken  and  rolling,  with  farms  here  and  there, 
and  extensive  cattle  ranges. 

Montague.  This  is  forty  miles  north  of  Sisson  and  is  the  junction  point  of 
the  Yreka  Railroad,  running  to  the  town  of  the  same  name,  the  county-seat  of 
Siskiyou  County.     It  is  a  town  of  considerable  importance.     Mining,  lumbering 


MOSSBRAE   FALLS,    MT.   SHASTA   COUNTRY. 


and  cattle  raising  are  the  chief  industries.  Farms  are  in  the  small  valleys,  and  the 
whole  country  is  prosperous. 

Ag"er.  From  this  point  a  stage  line  runs  to  Klamath  Hot  Springs,  eighteen  miles 
distant,  and  near  the  border  line  between  California  and  Oregon.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  attractive  mineral  spring  resorts  in  the  state,  partly  because  of  the  excellence 
of  its  waters,  and  partly  because  of  its  beautiful  scenery  and  the  charm  of  the  trout 
stream  at  its  doors.  The  Klamath  is  a  dashing  mountain  stream,  alive  with 
trout.  The  elevation  is  about  two  thousand  seven  hundred  feet,  and  the  tempera- 
ture never  high.  Salmon,  silver  and  rainbow  trout  can  be  found  within  sight  of 
the  hotel. 

The  Siskiyou  Mountains  run  over  into  Oregon.  From  their  summit  we  look 
down  into  the  faraway  Rogue  River  Valley,  one  of  the  finest  of  Oregon's  many  fine 


286  OVER   THE  RANGE 

/alleys.  Going  on  a  little,  we  cross  the  head  waters  of  the  Klamath  River,  rolling 
westward  to  the  Pacific,  and  at  Cole's  we  leave  California,  and  the  next  stop  is 
Oregon. 

THE   WEST   SIDE. 

Before  leaving  California  it  will  be  of  interest  to  enter  here  a  brief  description 
of  the  West  Side  Line  extending  between  Woodland  and  Tehama,  and  by  which 
line  the  tourist  may  travel  if  he  so  desire.  Leaving  Tehama  for  the  south  the  first 
station  is 

Filiello.  This  town,  on  the  north  side  of  Thomas  Creek,  is  a  small  business 
center  for  a  grain-growing  district.  It  is  on  the  edge  of  the  old-time  regime  in  farm- 
ing methods. 

Ricllfi*'J(l.  Thi3  is  a  colony  center,  separated  from  Finello  by  Thomas  Creek, 
and  not  more  than  two  miles  distant.  It  marks  the  transition  to  a  more  stable 
form  of  agricultural  life,  and  settles  up  the  country.  Children  born  belong  to  the 
land;  school-houses  are  builded,  and  communities  formed,  and  an  independent 
citizenship  takes  the  place  of  renters  and  employees,  whose  only  interest  in  the 
country  is  what  they  can  get  out  of  it. 

Coming'.  This  is  an  old-time  town  of  about  eleven  hundred  people,  quite 
surrounded  by  the  colonies  which  have  been  planted  in  the  wheat-fields,  and  have 
transformed  the  face  of  the  country.  Conservative  ranchers  stick  to  cattle  and 
grain.  One  sold  off  part  of  his  holding  to  the  colony  managers  for  twenty-five 
dollars  per  acie,  and  when  he  saw  what  could  be  done  with  the  land  bought  a  good 
share  of  it  back  at  seventy-two  dollars  per  acre.  Many  are  in  the  ruts  of  habit 
and  method,  and  do  not  see  the  possibilities  of  development  until  it  is  actually 
demonstrated  before  their  eyes;  they  stay  by  the  forms  of  industry  which  they 
know. 

May  "wood  Colony.  This  is  a  striking  example  of  what  this  region  and  a  hun- 
dred like  it  are  capable  of,  and  what  courage,  confidence,  foresight,  and  intelligent 
energy  will  do.  In  1890  this  was  a  wheat-field.  At  first  four  thousand  acres  were 
subdivided;  but  additions  were  quickly  made.  As  fast  as  one  tract  was  settled  uf 
another  was  thrown  open,  and  settlers  soon  found  to  occupy  it,  until  the  original 
four  thousand  acres  had  expanded  to  twenty-seven  thousand.  To-day  Maywooc 
Colony  is  a  prosperous,  contented,  industrious,  and  successful  aggregation  of  home- 
builders.  A  plot  of  the  central  group  of  colonies  shows  the  town  of  Corning  com- 
pletely invested  with  orchards  and  farms,  nearly  every  lot  being  sold  and  occupied. 
There  are  hundreds  of  comfortable  homes,  fine  business  blocks,  well-equipped 
hotels,  schools,  churches,  an  opera  house,  and  all  the  evidences  of  a  progressive  and 
successful  enterprise.  Oranges  do  as  well  as  anywhere;  olives  are  profitable  as 
pickles,  or  converted  into  oil,  peaches,  pears,  apricots,  vegetables,  grain,  poultry, 
melons,  sugar-beets — everything  goes.  A  huge  fir-tree,  five  feet  in  diameter,  and 
a  black  walnut,  eighty  feet  high,  hint  the  wide  range  of  tree  growth.  Peas  and 
tomatoes  are  produced  by  the  ton,  the  cannery  taking  all  that  can  be  grown.  A 
herd  of  one  thousand  to  one  thousand  five  hundred  turkeys  is  not  an  uncommon 
sight  in  the  region. 

The  Colony  district  ten  years  ago  had  but  about  one  hundred  people,  exclusive 
of  Corning.  It  now  numbers  two  thousand,  and  with  the  old  town  fully  one  thou- 
sand more.  The  new-comers  are  Eastern  people,  who  had  but  little  capital  and  no 
knowledge  of  farming  and  fruit-raising,  as  practiced  here.     Competent  California 


2&5  OVER   THE  RANGE 

farmers  guided  the  first  efforts,  and  no  difficulty  or  hardship  has  been  experienced 
in  "getting  started."  Back  of  all  has  been  a  wise  management,  a  liberal  and 
enlightened  policy.  Then  soil  and  climate.  The  growth  can  be  duplicated  on 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  acres  in  this  rich  valley.  It  requires  only  the  initiative 
fair  treatment,  intelligence,  and  wide  advertising.  Multitudes  only  want  to  know 
the  facts  about  California.  There  are  hundreds  of  chances  here  to  one  in  the  older 
communities,  and  no  unequal  contest  with  nature,  with  cold  and  frost  and  storm. 

Kirkwood.  Outside  of  the  limits  of  the  colony  just  left,  we  dip  into  the  con- 
servatism of  farm  life  again.  This  is  a  market  town  for  a  district  given  to  grain- 
growing,  to  livestock,  and  a  little  fruit.  But  the  object-lessons  in  many  localities 
are  breaking  into  the  old  cultural  habits,  and  new  life  and  growth  begin  to  appear. 

Orlailtl.  This  is  Glenn  County — a  few  years  ago  a  vast  wheat-field.  But 
change  is  in  the  air — transition  to  new  methods.  Orland  is  growing,  and  the  region 
roundabout  filling  up,  and  a  diversity  of  the  products  of  the  land  gives  the  tiller  of 
the  soil  an  immense  advantage.  He  has  always  something  to  turn  off.  Here  is 
alfalfa,  and  butter,  and  honey,  melons,  oranges,  lemons,  all  kinds  of  deciduous  fruit, 
and  all  kinds  of  vegetables.  Olives  and  almonds  flourish.  One  tract  of  sixty-six 
acres  set  to  almonds  returned,  in  1901,  nineteen  tons,  which  sold  for  eleven  cents  a 
pound;  net  result  about  thirty-five  hundred  dollars.  Oranges  and  lemons  are  being 
planted.  The  Lemon  Home  Colony  is  two  miles  out  from  Orland,  with  good  land, 
well  watered.  It  is  monotonous  to  repeat  that  citrus  fruits  will  do  well  at  a  hundred 
points  hitherto  untried.  We  are  trying  to  tell  the  truth  about  a  vast  region.  It  is 
nature's  fruit  realm.  It  has  millions  of  acres  as  well  adapted  to  oranges  and 
lemons  as  Sicily,  Malta,  the  Grecian  Archipelago,  the  south  of  France,  or  the  best 
section  of  Spain.  The  soil  and  the  climate  here  insure  the  success  of  oranges, 
lemons,  olives,  apricots,  peaches,  prunes,  and  almonds.  But  increasing  attention 
is  being  given  to  water  and  to  alfalfa,  as  in  many  other  places.  The  town  is  grow- 
ing. You  may  see  here  a  single  acre  which  for  twenty  years  has  supported  the 
owner  and  his  wife  in  comfort. 

Land  is  not  high,  it  is  cheap.  As  in  many  places,  it  is  men  that  are  wanted — 
men  who  can  plow  a  straight  furrow,  who  know  good  land  when  they  see  it,  and 
who  have  something  to  sell  every  time  they  go  to  town.  Land  is  plenty,  and  men 
with  intelligence  and  energy  can  make  a  fresh  start  anywhere  in  this  valley  with 
half  the  effort  their  fathers  put  forth  to  clear  the  forests  or  break  the  soil  of  the 
Middle  West. 

Germaiitowil.  The  business  center  again  of  a  wide  area  devoted  to  grain 
and  stock.  Land  can  be  bought  for  from  twenty  to  sixty-five  dollars,  land  under 
cultivation,  but  without  improvements.     It  is  a  good  region. 

Willows.  This  little  city  has  a  population  of  about  sixteen  hundred,  and  is 
full  of  life.  The  tributary  country  is  rich  in  grain  and  fruit.  Willows  is  the  junc- 
tion point  of  a  branch  line  that  traverses  a  productive  region  as  far  as  Fruto.  This 
euphonious  name  indicates  the  prevailing  industry.  Yet  stock-raising,  dairying, 
and  general  farming  is  in  vogue.  One  man  grows  ten  acres  of  tomatoes,  netting 
him  from  seven  hundred  to  a  thousand  dollars  a  year.  Another  raises  barley, 
alfalfa,  and  potatoes,  and  from  thirty-seven  acres  netted,  in  1901,  two  thousand  six 
hundred  dollars.  River  bottom-land  set  to  peaches  returned  one  hundred  and 
twenty  dollars  per  acre  from  a  large  tract. 

Norman.  Another  market-place  and  shipping-point  for  grain  and  stock.  The 
western  foothills  furnish  good  pasture,  and  in  the  rougher  brush  lands  the  Angora 
is  profitable.     From  a  flock  of  five  hundred,  one  owner  sheared  two  thousand  five 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  2S9 

hundred  pounds  mohair,  selling  for  thirty  cents  a  pound.  His  flock  was  increased 
by  four  hundred  kids.     There  is  a  growing  market  for  the  long  silky  fleei  e. 

Maxwell.  We  are  still  in  the  midst  of  wheat-fields,  wide,  flat  reaches  of 
country.  Diversified  farming  is  growing  in  favor,  and  the  monotony  of  yellow  grain- 
fields  will  soon  disappear. 

Hogs  are  seen  in  the  fields,  and  other  stock,  and  more  attention  will  be  given 
cows  and  the  dairy.     The  character  of  the  soil  will  reveal  itself  at  a  glance. 

The  mountains  on  the  west  side  are  full  of  delightful  camping-places,  and  some 
of  the  most  famous  mineral  springs  are  easily  reached.  Deer  and  bear  are  plenty, 
and  foxes,  coyotes  and  panthers  are  readily  found.  On  the  east  the  Sacramento 
River  offers  good  fishing,  and  ducks  and  geese  in  their  season. 

Colusa  Junction.  This  is  the  connecting  point  with  the  "Colusa  and  Lake 
Railroad."  It  runs  east  to  Colusa  and  northwest  to  Sites,  and  from  the  latter  by 
stage  to  Bartlett  Springs  and  other  Clear  Lake  points;  Sites  is  a  small  foothill  town. 
The  foothills  of  both  mountain  ranges,  the  Sierra  and  the  Coast,  have  many  fine 
and  fertile  little  valleys,  and  the  climate  is  always  exceptionally  fine.  Where  water 
can  be  had  they  make  ideal  places  for  fruit.  Along  the  Coast  foothills,  water  can 
usually  be  had  by  digging  wells. 

Colusa  is  a  town  of  nearly  two  thousand  people — with  its  extensions,  two  thou- 
sand two  hundred.  Electric  power  has  been  brought  in,  and  is  available  for  pump- 
ing for  irrigation,  and  for  other  mechanical  purposes.  A  great  body  of  magnificent 
alluvial  land  is  here,  that  will  grow  anything,  with  plenty  of  water  for  purposes  of 
irrigation.  Lands  are  being  cut  up  into  small  farms,  and  fruit-growing  will  sup- 
plant wheat  farms.  Oil  is  found  of  a  superior  quality,  and  may  prove  very  pro- 
ductive. The  lands  along  the  river  are  protected  by  levees,  and  the  river  itself  is 
made  to  serve  for  winter  irrigation.  Bartlett  Springs,  which  is  not  far  from  here, 
is  very  celebrated,  and  much  resorted  to  for  the  cure  of  certain  diseases.  Other 
springs  in  the  county  are  used  as  summer  resorts,  and  for  the  healing  virtue  of 
their  waters.  The  Colusa  stone  quarries  are  drawn  upon  from  all  parts  of  the 
state.  The  fine  quality  of  the  stone  shows  in  the  new  Ferry  Building  at  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  in  the  band-stand  at  Golden  Gate  Park.  Considerable  land  is  for  sale 
here  at  fair  prices. 

Williams.  The  population  is  about  twelve  hundred,  and  the  town  is  in  the 
midst  of  vast  grain-fields.  The  increased  value  of  stock  is  being  recognized,  and 
this  industry,  with  fruit-farming,  and  greater  diversity  of  farm  products,  is 
growing. 

Arblickle.  The  whole  region  is  devoted  to  grain  and  stock.  The  town  serves 
as  a  shipping-point,  and  for  market  purposes  and  social  life. 

DlUllligail.  When  some  pastoral  bard  arises — some  modern  Virgil,  surveying 
these  boundless  wheat  plains,  will  he  find  poetry  in  the  scene  ?  There  are  figures 
for  the  census,  but  not  much  to  inspire  the  poet.  The  barns  are  not  ideally  colored, 
like  Eastman  Johnson's,  and  where  there  are  any  at  all,  they  are  not  "as  wide  as  a 
Dutchman's  barn,"  the  monotony  of  endlessly  pleasant  weather  dispensing  with 
the  necessity  for  barns  in  most  cases.  The  country  tributary  to  Dunnigan  produces 
grain — and  a  great  deal  of  it. 

Yolo.  Poetry  is  still  immolated  here  under  the  wheels  of  giant  combined  reap- 
ing and  threshing  machines,  or  buried  by  the  gang  plow.  It  is  a  vast  industry,  but 
too  easy  for  profit  in  these  competitive  days.  A  brief  period  of  plowing  and  sowing 
another  of  harvesting,  and  then  the  employees  drift  away  to  the  towns  or  cities,  and 
the  rancher  waits  for  next  year.     Meantime,  California  imports  a  hundred  things 


290  OVER   THE  RANGE 

she  consumes,  and  ought  to  produce  at  home.  Pork,  condensed  milk,  preserves 
jellies,  jams,  poultry,  eggs,  sugar — all  ought  to  be  provided  in  this  opulent  state. 
Woodland,  the  next  station,  we  saw  on  our  way  north. 

OREGON    AND   THE   SISKIYOU. 

Tlie  State  Lille.  Resuming  the  northward  journey,  two  miles  beyond  Coles 
station  we  cross  the  state  line,  and  entering  Oregon,  begin  the  ascent  of  the  Siskiyou 
Mountains.  This  ascent  is  a  wonder  of  railway  engineering.  The  statistical  facts 
concerning  this  achievement  may  be  condensed  as  follows: 

Elevation  at  State  Line 2$59  feet 

Coles  Springs 3>775     " 

Tunnel  No.  13 3, 108     " 

Tunnel  No.  15 $>110     " 

Tunnel  No.  16 2,977     " 

Length  of  Tunnel  No.  13 4,160     " 

The  mathematician  has  the  advantage  here.  He  can  tell  exactly  the  facts  concern- 
ing this  great  work;  but  the  descriptive  writer  strives  in  vain  to  convey  to  the  reader 
the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  scene.  The  southern  slope  of  the  range  is  denuded 
of  trees,  while  the  northern  side  is  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  pine. 

Siskiyou  Station.  This  is  the  summit  of  the  range,  and  the  highest  point 
on  the  entire  line,  being  4,135  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  mountain  view 
from  this  coign  of  vantage  is  indescribably  magnificent.  To  the  east  is  the  Cascade 
Range,  extending  to  the  north  for  full  four  hundred  miles;  to  the  northeast  is  Mount 
Pitt,  while  still  farther  on  are  Mounts  Scott,  Threlson,  and  Diamond  Peak — mon- 
archs  of  the  Cascades.  To  the  west  are  the  peaks  of  the  Siskiyou  and  Coast  ranges; 
to  the  south  are  the  two  Sisters,  Mount  Lassen,  and  above  all  imperial  Shasta  rears 
his  head.  Lakes,  rivers,  and  valleys  lie  spread  out  before  us  like  a  map;  and  in  a 
word,  for  variety,  grandeur,  beauty,  and  extent,  this  view  has  no  equal  on  the  con- 
tinent. 

Aslllaild.  At  the  foot  of  the  Siskiyou  Range,  on  the  eastern  slope,  is  situated 
this  beautiful  little  town,  in  a  delightful  valley.  The  town  was  established  in  1850; 
and  in  1887,  on  December  17th  Mr.  Charles  Crocker,  of  San  Francisco,  drove  the 
last  spike  which  completed  the  railroad  connection  between  California  and  Oregon. 
The  town  of  Ashland  has  entered  upon  a  season  of  great  prosperity,  being  the  seat 
of  the  State  Normal  School,  and  having  the  White  Sulphur  Springs  within  near 
proximity.  It  is  a  large  shipping-point  for  wheat,  and  also  for  fruit.  (Population, 
3.000;  distance  from  San  Francisco,  431  miles;  elevation,  1,891  feet.) 

Rolling  along  through  the  valley  we  pass  Phcenix  and  Medford,  prosperous 
towns  of  moderate  size. 

Jacksonville  is  the  county-seat  of  Jackson  County,  and  is  connected  with 
Medford,  four  miles  distant,  by  stage.  (Population,  1,000;  distance  from  San 
Francisco,  450  miles;  elevation,  1,399  feet.) 

Rogue  River  Valley.  We  are  now  in  the  Rogue  River  Valley,  and  are 
following  the  stream  in  its  downward  course.  The  valley  averages  about  three 
miles  in  width,  with  high  hills  on  each  side,  covered  with  a  strong  growth  of  grass, 
and  in  places  heavily  timbered.  The  products  of  this  valley  are  berries,  nuts,  and 
fruit.     Fishing  and  hunting  can  be  found  here  of  the  best  quality.     The  stations 


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292  OVER   THE  RANGE 

which  follow  Medford  are:      Gold  Hill,  Grant's  Pass,  Merlin,  Leland,  Wolf  Creek, 
Glendale,  West  Fork,  Riddle,  Myrtle  Creek,  and  Dillard. 

For  a  stretch  of  over  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
from  Grant's  Pass,  the  country  presents  a  wonder- 
ful panorama  of  grand  and  beautiful  scenery. 
Mountains  are  all  around  us.  To  the  right  the 
Cascade  Range,  to  the  left  the  Coast  Range.  Gorges 
before  us!  Canons  behind  us!  Little  valleys  of 
entrancing  loveliness  are  crossed;  sparkling  streams 
abound;  forests  of  oaks  and  pines,  of  hemlocks  and 
madrones,  are  threaded;  in  a  word,  the  variety  is 
infinite,  the  beauty  indescribable. 

Roseburg'  is  the  county-seat  of  Douglas  County.  Through  the  town  flow 
the  Umpqua  River  and  Deer  Creek,  which  furnish  water-power  and  a  plentiful 
supply  of  pure  water  for  domestic  purposes.  Agriculture,  horticulture,  and  pastoral 
industries  are  tributary.  (Population,  2,000;  distance  from  San  Francisco, 
574  miles;   elevation,  487  feet.) 

The  Valley  Of  the  Umpqua.  This  valley,  situated  between  the 
Coast  Range  of  mountains  and  the  Calapooias,  is  exceedingly  fertile,  being  especially 
adapted  to  agriculture  and  the  growing  of  fruit.  The  valley  ranks  third  in  size 
among  those  of  Oregon,  those  of  the  Willamette,  and  Umatilla  being  greater  in  area. 
A  historical  interest  attaches  itself  to  the  Umpqua  Valley,  for  in  its  quiet  confines  lie 
the  remains  of  the  brave  soldier  and  public-spirited  citizen  General  Joseph  Lane. 
His  grave  is  in  a  little  churchyard,  a  mile  from  Roseburg.  After  leaving  Roseburg, 
the  stations  occur  in  the  following  order:  Wilbur,  Oakland,  Rice  Hill,  Youcalla, 
Drains,  and  Comstocks. 

Divide  is  on  the  water-shed  between  the  waters  of  the  Umpqua  and  Willa- 
mette Rivers.  Latham,  Cottage  Grove,  Walkers,  Creswell,  Goshen,  and  Springfield 
are  the  succeeding  stations. 

Eugene  is  the  county-seat  of  Lane  County,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Willamette  River,  and  is  a  thriving,  prosperous  town.  Here  has  been  estab- 
lished the  University  of  Oregon,  which  is  one  of  the  leading  educational  institutions 
of  the  state.  The  Willamette  is  navigable  from  Portland  to  this  point  for  steamers 
of  light  draught;  but  freight  traffic  is  now  carried  mainly  by  the  railroad.  This  is  a 
fine  agricultural  and  fruit  country,  and  shipments  of  these  products  from  Eugene 
are  large.  (Population,  4,000;  distance  from  San  Francisco,  649  miles;  eleva- 
tion, 455  feet.) 

Beyond  Eugene  are  Irving,  Junction  City,  Harrisburg,  Muddy,  Halsey,  Shedds, 
Tangent,  and  Albany  Junction. 

Albany,  the  county-seat  of  Linn  County,  is  an  enterprising,  growing  town. 
For  a  country  which  Eastern  people  consider  so  "new,"  this  town  has  great  "an- 
tiquity," having  been  established  in  1848.  Here  is  located  the  Albany  College  and 
other  schools  of  excellent  quality.  The  town  has  good  business  and  private  build- 
ings, water-works — in  fact,  all  of  the  modern  improvements.  (Population,  5,000; 
distance  from  San  Francisco,  692  miles;    elevation,  240  feet.) 

Millersburg,  Jefferson,  Marion,  and  Turner  are  the  stations  passed  after  leaving 
Albany  before  Salem  is  reached. 

Salem  is  the  state  capital  and  the  county-seat  of  Marion  County.  It  is 
situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Willamette  River,  which  furnishes  unlimited  water- 
power.     Here  are  located  the  state  institutions,  including  the  Insane  Asylum,  the 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  293 

School  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  and  Blind,  the  Penitentiary  and  the  Indian  Training 
School.  Steamers  ply  regularly  between  Portland  and  Salem,  and  the  amount  of 
lumber  shipped  annually  exceeds  three  million  feet.  The  capitol  building  occupies 
an  entire  block,  and  may  be  seen  from  the  car  window,  to  our  left,  after  leaving  the 
depot.  It  need  not  be  said  that  Salem  is  a  well-built,  prosperous  city,  for  the  fact  that 
it  is  the  state  capital  makes  such  a  statement  superfluous.  (Population,  6,000;  dis- 
tance from  San  Francisco,  720  miles;   elevation,  100  feel . ) 

After  we  have  left  Salem  we  pass  the  state  fair  grounds,  two  miles  from  the 
city,  and  four  miles  farther  on  Chemawa  is  reached,  which  is  the  immediate  site  of 
the  Indian  Training  School.  Beyond  are  the  stations  of  Brooks,  Woodburn,  Hub- 
bard, Aurora,  Barlow,  Canby,  New  Era,  and  Canemah. 

Oregon  City  is  the  county-seat  of  Clackamas  County,  and  is  noted  for  its 
magnificent  water-power,  being  located  at  the  great  falls  of  the  Willamette  River. 
Here  were  constructed  the  canal  and  lock  system  which  make  the  Willamette  navi- 
gable beyond  the  falls.  This  system  cost  half  a  million  dollars.  Oregon  City  is  a 
thriving  town,  boasting  all  the  modern  improvements,  and  doing  a  large  business. 
(Population,  4,000;  distance  from  San  Francisco,  756  miles;  elevation,  95  feet.) 
Beyond  Oregon  City  we  pass  through  the  following  stations:  Clackamas,  Mil- 
waukee, Willsburg,  Car  Shops,  and  East  Portland.  These  are  really  suburbs  of 
Portland,  as  the  distance  between  Oregon  City  and  Portland  is  only  15  miles. 

This  metropolitan  city,  with  its  population  of 
one  hundred  thousand  souls,  sits  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Willamette  River,  twelve  miles  from  its  conflu- 
ence with  the  Columbia,  and  one  hundred  and  fifteen 
miles,  by  river,  from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  first 
settlers  came  here  in  1843,  and  in  185 1  the  settle- 
ment was  incorporated  as  a  city.  It  is  now  the 
metropolis  of  the  Pacific  Northwest,  and  the  third 
richest  city  in  the  world,  in  proportion  of  the  wealth 
to  per  capita  of  population.  On  the  east  side  of 
the  Willamette,  directly  opposite  Portland,  is  the  city  of  East  Portland,  and  on  the 
same  side,  to  the  northward,  around  the  bend  of  the  river,  the  city  of  Albina,  both 
of  which  contain  a  population  of  about  ten  thousand  souls,  and  are  connected  with 
Portland  by  two  bridges.  Numerous  ferry-boats  also  ply  on  the  river  between 
Portland  and  her  trans-Willamette  suburbs.  Thus,  there  are  clustered  here  under 
three  corporate  names,  a  community  of  one  hundred  and  ten  thousand  people, 
whose  business  intermingles,  and  who  are  actively  engaged  in  its  diversified  indus- 
tries. 

The  favorable  position  which  Portland  occupies  for  an  important  commercial 
city,  can  be  best  understood  by  gaining  a  knowledge  of  its  location,  relative  to  a 
large  area  of  very  rich  country.  The  Willamette  Valley,  at  the  foot  of  which  Port- 
land is  situated,  contains  four  million  acres  of  land,  and  its  products  are  abundant 
to  furnish  sustenance  for  over  a  million  people.  Most  of  this  territory  is  now  under 
cultivation.  Wheat  has  been  the  chief  crop  raised,  but  other  cereals,  root  crops,  and 
fruits  are  now  occupying  the  attention  of  the  farmers,  and  on  the  slopes  of  the 
mountains  that  border  the  valley,  stock-raising  and  dairying  arc  found  to  be  profit- 
able industries.  The  finest  flavored  fruits  in  the  world  are  raised  here — apples, 
pears,  prunes,  peaches,  plums,  small  fruits,  melons,  etc.  In  fact,  all  the  products 
of  the  temperate  zones  can  be  successfully  grown  in  the  Willamette  Valley.  The 
surplus  product  of  this  fertile  valley,  of  course,  flows  through  Portland,  to  which 


PORTLAND. 

The  Metropolis  of  the 
Pacific  Northwest. 

A  City  of  Magnificent 

Achievements  and 

High  Hopes. 


294 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


port  it  is  transported  by  boats  which  ply  on  the  Willamette,  and  railroads  which 
penetrate  the  country  on  each  side  of  the  river.  The  Columbia  River,  before  pierc- 
ing the  Cascade  Mountains,  flows  through  and  drains  a  tract  of  country  more 
than  four  times  as  large  as  the  state  of  New  York,  and  with  a  soil  of   wonderful 

productiveness.  The  improve- 
ment of  that  vast  region  is 
scarcely  begun,  yet  the  pro- 
duct has  already  grown  be- 
yond the  facilities  for  moving 
it,  though  they  are  great, 
and  beyond  all  expectations. 
But  the  transportation  facil- 
ities are  increasing  rapidly, 
and  that  trouble  will  not 
last.  Anything  that  can  be 
grown  on  fertile  soil  in  a 
mild  climate  is  produced  in 
this  basin  in  abundance,  and 
from  Idaho,  Washington  Ter- 
ritory, and  Oregon  a  constant 
stream  flows  to  Portland. 

The  mines  of  Oregon,  in- 
cluding those  of  gold,  silver, 
iron,  copper,  etc.,  and  the  vast 
mineral  output  of  Montana, 
Idaho,  and  Washington  con- 
w  tribute  an  important  amount  to 
q  the  business  of  this  commercial 
^  metropolis.  The  timber  pro- 
q  duct  is  by  no  means  inconsider- 
<j  able,  large  quantities  of  lumber 
H  being  annually  turned  out 
O  The  most  extensive  salmon 
fishing  in  the  world,  and  the 
general  piscatorial  industry  of 
the  Columbia  and  \\ lllamettc 
rivers,  have  their  main  springs 
of  capital  in  Portland.  Situated 
as  she  is,  at  the  gateway  to  the 
regions  mentioned,  the  resources 
of  which  arc  practically  illim- 
itable, and  easily  transported  on 
the  rivers  that  drain  them,  be- 
ing accessible  to  ocean  craft,  and  having  a  demand  for  trade  from  across  the 
sea,  being  at  a  point  of  interchange  of  foreign  and  domestic  traffic,  having  a 
situation  favorable  for  utilizing  these  various  agencies  for  promoting  growth, 
Portland  certainly  possesses  advantages  of  location  equaled  by  few  cities  in  the 
world. 

There  are  five  lines  of  railroad  centering  in  Portland.     The  Northern  Pacific 
hns  north  to  Tacoma,  thence  east  to  St.  Paul.     It  also  connects,  at  Wallula  June- 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  295 

tion,  with  the  O.  R.  &  X.,  making  a  shorter  route  from  Portland  to  the  east.  The 
Oregon  Railway  &:  Navigation  Company  has  a  line  passing  up  the  Columbia 
River  to  Wallula  Junction  and  branching  out  into  various  feeders,  built  and  in 
process  of  construction,  ramifying  the  south-central  portion  of  the  great  Inland 
Empire.  The  connection  of  the  O.  R.  &  X.  with  the  Oregon  Short  Line  gives  a 
direct  trans-continental  line  between  Portland  and  Missouri  River  points  by  way 
of  Ogden  and  Salt  Lake.  Another  line,  the  Oregon  &  California,  starts  from 
Portland,  and  running  up  the  west  side  of  the  river,  forms  a  valuable  feeder, 
penetrating  the  heart  of  the  garden  of  Oregon.  This  line  connects,  at  Corvallis, 
with  the  Oregon  Pacific,  extending  westward  to  Yaquina  Bay,  and  will  soon 
reach  a  rich,  but  as  yet  undeveloped,  region  in  eastern  Oregon.  Then  the  Yam- 
hill Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company  affords  another  outlet  for  the 
valley  through  Portland.  Thus,  the  city  is  made  a  terminus  for  three  trans- 
continental railway  systems,  and  has  all  the  advantages  of  five  local  roads,  besides 
the  water  transportation  on  the  Willamette  and  Columbia  rivers  and  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  The  Canadian  Pacific  is  also  competing  for  Portland  business,  running 
a  steamer  between  here  and  Vancouver,  B.  C,  to  connect  with  its  China  line  of 
steamers,  and  bidding  eagerly  for  freight  and  passenger  business  between  Portland 
and  the  Eastern  states.  The  Xorthern  Pacific  Terminal  Company  has  erected 
shops  in  Albina  at  a  cost  of  over  $500,000,  with  a  capacity  for  the  employment 
of  a  thousand  men.  The  company  owns  nearly  eight  thousand  feet  of  water 
front.  Besides  the  shops,  there  are  large  grain  warehouses,  coal  bunkers,  and  a 
dry  dock,  owned  by  the  Oregon  Railway   &  Navigauon  Company. 

On  the  Portland  side  of  the  river  is  the  site  of  the  union  passenger  and  freight 
buildings  and  freight  yards.  The  completion  of  the  bridge  over  the  Willamette, 
which  the  Oregon  Railway  and  Navigation  Company  has  constructed,  enables 
the  improvements  for  the  Portland  yards  and  building  to  be  carried  out.  This 
bridge  is  a  steel  structure,  consisting  of  a  draw  span  of  three  hundred  and  forty 
feet,  and  a  fixed  span  of  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  It  is  a  through  bridge, 
with  carriage  way  and  foot-walls  above  the  railroad  tracks,  and  connects  Third 
Street,  Portland,  and  Holladay  Avenue,  East  Portland. 

Modern  Improvements.  The  streets  of  Portland  are  lighted  by 
incandescent  and  arc  electric  lights.  The  city  owns  its  water-works  system.  In 
order  to  purchase  the  water-works  plant  from  the  private  corporation  which  owned 
it,  the  city  issued  5  per  cent  bonds  to  the  amount  of  $500,000,  which  were  readily 
sold  at  an  average  price  of  $1.08,  showing  the  confidence  in  the  city's  financial 
condition.  The  city  has  fifty  miles  of  water  mains,  and  the  pumping  capacity 
of  the  works  is  twenty  million  gallons  per  day.  The  supply  is  obtained  from  the 
Willamette  River,  about  five  miles  up  the  stream.  The  average  daily  consumption 
is  five  million  gallons. 

The  Portland  paid  fire  department  is  an  efficient  organization,  operating  under 
the  city  board  of  fire  commissioners.  A  fireman's  mutual  relief  association  is 
in  operation  in  connection  with  the  fire  department. 

Manufacturing".  The  manufacturing  advantages  of  Portland  and  vicinity 
are  not  utilized  to  an  extent  at  all  commensurate  with  their  importance.  There  is 
abundant  raw  material  in  Oregon,  cheap  and  reliable  water-power,  and  generally 
favorable  conditions  for  the  growth  of  varied  manufacturing  enterprises.  The 
comparatively  recent  discovery  of  the  resources  of  the  region  must  account  for 
the  small  amount  of  manufacturing  that  is  done  where  circumstances  are  so 
favorable.     People  from   the    East,  accustomed  to  the  closer  and  fuller  develop- 


296  OVER   THE  RANGE 

ment  of  their  resources,  and  alive  to  the  advantages  of  manufacturing  as  near 
the  source  of  supply  as  possible,  are  surprised  at  the  neglected  opportunities 
which  they  observe  on  the  Pacific  Slope,  and  particularly  in  and  about  the  com- 
mercial center  of  a  region  incalculably  rich  in  the  elements  that  promote  manu- 
facturing prosperity.  Still,  that  branch  of  industry  is  well  established,  and  is 
constantly  increasing  in  volume  and  importance.  (Population,  100,000;  dis- 
tance from  San  Francisco,  772  miles.) 

Picturesque  Surrounding's.  Aside  from  the  advantages  of  its  rela- 
tive location,  Portland  has  a  very  admirable  site  for  a  beautiful  city.  From  the 
docks  at  the  river's  side,  the  land  gradually  ascends  to  the  west  and  southwest, 
finally  breaking  in  elevated  and  picturesque  hills,  upon  which  the  residence  por- 
tion of  the  city  is  already  encroaching.  These  hills  form  an  important  feature 
in  the  topography  of  the  city.  The  lower  and  more  level  part  of  the  town  is 
occupied  by  business  houses  and  manufactories.  The  heights  are  visible  from 
almost  any  point.  They  are  ascended  by  means  of  roadways  winding  along  the 
hillsides,  affording  magnificent  view  as  the  prospect  unfolds.  From  the  summit  of 
Robinson's  Hill,  on  a  clear  day,  the  sight  is  most  grand  and  inspiring.  Within  a 
radius  of  a  hundred  miles,  which  the  eye  sweeps  from  this  elevated  outlook,  north, 
east,  and  southeast,  five  perpetually  snow-clad  mountain  peaks  are  visible.  The  most 
prominent  of  these  is  Mount  Hood,  which  rests  upon  the  long,  bluish  bank  of  the 
Cascade  Mountains,  and  rears  its  lofty  summit  to  the  sky.  Its  covering  of  snow  and 
glaciers  sparkles  in  the  sunlight,  and  when  suffused  with  the  soft  glow  of  the  setting 
sun,  reflects  the  most  delicate  tints  of  purple,  crimson,  and  gold,  giving  it  a  majestic 
splendor  inspiring  to  the  beholder.  To  the  south  is  Mount  Jefferson,  and  to  the  north 
Mounts  Adams,  St.  Helens  and  Rainier,  the  latter  the  loftiest  peak  of  the  Cascade 
Mountain  range,  all  of  them  capped  with  snow  and  ice,  and  relieving  a  landscape 
of  charming  beauty.  Breaking  through  the  ridge  of  the  Cascades,  the  great  "River 
of  the  West,"  the  Columbia,  pours  its  mighty  tide  toward  the  sea.  The  Willamette 
threads  the  broad  valley  to  the  south  like  a  ribbon,  its  course  being  visible  for  many 
miles,  and  finally  being  lost  among  the  farms  and  villages  that  dot  its  banks. 

Tacoma's  commanding  position  among  the 
cities  of  Washington  Territory  has  been  earned 
step  by  step  by  a  struggle  in  which  the  odds  were 
against  her.  The  general  apprehension,  justified 
probably  by  the  history  of  many  cities  and  towns, 
that  in  the  West  all  one  need  to  do  is  to  stake  off  a 
few  lots,  build  a  cabin  or  two,  select  a  name,  and  a 
city  will  grow  up  much  after  the  fashion  of  vege- 
tables in  a  garden,  is  in  nowise  true  of  Tacoma, 
When  Tacoma  was  established  other  towns  on  Puget  Sound  had  existed  for  many 
years,  and  naturally  they  did  not  extend  any  encouragement  to  a  new  town.  Instead 
of  receiving,  from  the  beginning,  as  in  the  case  of  many  cities  of  the  West,  the  ex- 
clusive support  and  encouragement  of  an  extensive  business  district,  Tacoma 
found  the  older  towns  already  in  possession,  and  ready  to  contest  every  step  taken 
by  the  new  claimant  for  public  favor  and  support.  Figuratively  speaking,  Tacoma's 
first  breath  of  life  was  a  battle-cry,  and  although  the  cry  was  not  at  first  very  loud, 
it  was  firm,  full  of  confidence  and  pluck.  The  town  did  not  remain  long  in  its 
swaddling-clothes.  Its  voice  gained  in  strength.  At  first  Puget  Sound  only  heard 
it.  Then  it  reached  the  ears  of  everybody  in  Washington  Territory,  and  they  were 
pleased  with  it.     The  Pacific  Northwest  then  realized  that  there  was  a  new  voice 


TACOMA. 

A  City  Whose  Fame 
Has  Become  Inter- 
national. 

••The  City  of  Lestiny.' 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  297 

in  the  business  world,  and  stopped  to  listen,  and  soon  the  entire  Pacific  Coast  was 
talking  about  it.  Then  the  great  and  populous  East  heard  Tacoma's  voice,  and 
when  it  said  "Come,"  thousands  responded.  Then  England  came  thousands  of 
miles  by  sea,  in  great  ships,  to  learn  more  about  Tacoma,  a  city  whose  fame  had 
crossed  the  Atlantic.  China  and  Japan  sent  teaships  at  this  infant's  demand,  and 
even  far-off  Australia  heard  it,  and  was  so  pleased  that  the  ocean  pathway  between 
Tacoma  and  that  continent  is  marked  by  an  ever-increasing  fleet  of  ships  going  and 
coming.  Tacoma  helps  to  feed  the  world,  helps  to  build  the  world's  houses,  and 
yet  its  voice  is  stronger  than  ever,  and  is  being  used  more  than  ever.  The  thou- 
sands of  people  who  listened  and  responded  to  Tacoma's  invitation  were  not  dis- 
appointed. And  Tacoma  grew  and  flourished,  until  its  present  commanding  posi- 
tion was  reached. 

From  a  town  of  only  a  few  hundred  people,  Tacoma  now  has  a  population 
estimated  at  45,000.  Its  property  has  increased  to  twenty  times  its  value  ten 
years  ago.  Its  business  relations  extend  to  all  parts  of  the  civilized  world,  a  fact 
which  is  true  of  no  other  city  in  Washington  Territory.  In  railroads,  shipping, 
manufactories,  and  business  generally,  Tacoma's  prosperity  has  been  very  great; 
so  great  indeed,  that  whereas  it  a  few  years  ago  was  only  a  small  and  relatively 
unimportant  village,  it  is  now  a  city,  possessing  all  the  characteristics  and  con- 
veniences of  a  city. 

Tacoma  was  originally  planned  on  a  large  scale,  and  the  expectations  of  the 
founders  of  the  city,  however  sanguine  they  may  have  been,  have  doubtless  been 
more  than  realized  at  this  time.  Probably  no  one  expected  Tacoma  to  grow  so 
rapidly,  to  earn  so  speedily  such  extraordinary  trade  relations  with  the  markets  of 
the  world.  The  streets  are  wide  and  laid  off  with  special  relation  to  convenience 
and  beauty.  Pacific  and  Tacoma  avenues  are  without  superiors  for  beauty  and 
length  in  the  Northwest.  These  and  other  public  highways  are  well  graded,  and 
sidewalks  are  constructed  of  a  substantial  character. 

The  location  of  the  Methodist  University  in  Tacoma  has  given  the  city  a  not- 
able addition  to  its  already  large  number  of  educational  institutions.  The  Tacoma 
people  subscribed  a  bonus  of  $75,000  to  this  great  institution.  The  Annie  Wright 
Seminary,  the  Washington  College,  and  the  numerous  public  schools  speak  more 
than  words  can  tell  of  the  public  spirit  manifested  by  Tacoma  people,  of  their  ability 
to  meet  every  demand  of  a  liberal  and  progressive  population,  and  of  the  existence 
of  a  breadth  of  public  sentiment  which  proves  the  stable  character  of  the  city's 
progress.  Of  the  many  church  buildings,  some  possess  architectural  beauties 
equal  to  those  to  be  seen  anywhere.  Private  residences  of  handsome  architecture 
may  be  seen  in  all  parts  of  the  city.  The  hotels  number  twenty,  and  yet  they  are 
not  sufficient  to  accommodate  the  multitude  of  people  who  daily  arrive  in  this  flour- 
ishing city. 

The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Company  has  erected  a  magnificent  brick 
building  for  the  offices  of  the  company. 

These  features  of  Tacoma  are  worthy  of  special  attention  as  evidencing  the 
solid  character  of  the  city's  progress.  They  rebut  every  idea  that  Tacoma's  growth 
and  the  expansion  of  her  industries  are  "mushroomy"  in  character.  The  city 
itself  is  the  best  commentary  on  the  character  of  its  resources.  (Population,  45,- 
000;  distance  from  San  Francisco,  917  miles.) 

The  Climate  of  Puget  Sound.  The  following  extract  from  a  recent 
compilation  so  accurately  sets  forth  the  characteristics  of  this  climate,  that  to 
employ  other  words  would  add  nothing  to  the  facts  contained  in  it: 


298 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


The  climate  of  the  Puget  Sound  country  is  wholly  unlike  anything  experienced 
on  the  Atlantic  slope  or  in  the  Mississippi  Valley;  or,  indeed,  anywhere  on  the 
American  continent  except  in  the  Pacific  Northwest.  The  summers  are  cool,  and 
the  winters  singularly  mild.  A  temperature  of  8o°  in  midsummer  is  very  rare, 
and  not  often  in  winter  does  the  mercury  go  much  below  the  freezing-point.  The 
following  meteorological  table,  which  is  for  an  average  year,  is  compiled  from 
observations  taken  daily  at  7  A.  M.,  2  P.  M.,  and  9  P.  M.  A  minute's  study  of  it 
will  show  how  remarkably  free  from  trying  extremes  the  climate  is. 


ANNUAL   METEOROLOGICAL   TABLE. 


Lowest.  Highest.  Mean. 

January 300 

February 31 


March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 46 

October 39 

November 34 

December 28 


59 
68 

75 
80 
76 
86 
84 
74 
64 
60 
60 


Monthly 
Rainfall 
in  Inches. 

4.20 

4.16 

I  .01 

0.47 

2.89 

0.49 

0.26 

2.44 

2-47 
8.22 
6.14 


Total  annual  rainfall 32-74 


As  suggested,  if  the  above  extract  is  carefully  studied  it  will  t^ll  more  than 
many  words  of  explanation. 

Trade  with  South  America  and  Mexico.  The  condition  upon 
which  trade  relations  will  be  established  with  South  American  and  Mexican  Pacific 
coast  points  are  of  such  a  promising  character  that  it  will  not  be  long  until  a  most 
valuable  commerce  will  be  carried  on.  The  peculiar  conditions  which  justify  the 
hope  of  establishing  very  extensive  relations  with  that  country  are  found  in  the 
products  of  the  countries.  The  purposes  of  this  article  will  not  admit  of  a  minute 
examination  of  these  conditions,  but  any  one  who  will  examine  the  subject  will 
find  that  the  products  of  Washington  Territory  supply  what  the  South  American 
countries  referred  to  do  not  have,  and  those  countries  produce  that  which  will  find 
a  ready  market  in  the  Northwest.  Hard  woods,  tropical  fruits,  valuable  ores  and 
minerals  on  the  one  hand,  with  soft  woods,  iron,  grain,  fish,  and  many  other  of  the 
resources  of  the  Northwest — these,  any  one  can  easily  see,  furnish  all  the  con- 
ditions upon  which  most  extensive  commercial  relations  may  be  established.  The 
relations  will  be  those  of  exchange  of  products.  Such  conditions  are  especially 
promising,  as  they  will  afford  cargoes  both  going  and  coming. 

Tacoma's  commercial  relations  with  the  Pacific  coast  are  now  so  well  known 
that  it  is  almost  unnecessary  to  make  reference  to  them  at  all,  except  to  make  this 
array  of  evidence  complete.  Reference  to  the  record  of  Tacoma's  shipping,  as  set 
forth  already  in  this  article,  will  show  how  extensive  are  Tacoma's  relations  with 
San  Francisco  and  other  coast  points. 

The  thoughtful  man  will  reason  that  if  Tacoma  enjoys  such  extraordinary 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  299 

advantages  now,  what  will  the  future  bring?  He  will  then  understand  the  pe<  uliar 
significance  of  the  poetical  phrase,  "The  City  of  Destiny." 

A  Magnificent  Harbor.  The  general  measure  of  Tacoma's  appre- 
ciation of  this  most  remarkable  body  of  water  would  be  expressed  in  miles  rather 
than  particular  instances.  To  say  that  there  are  saw-mills  at  particular  points,  coal 
bunkers  at  others,  wheat  warehouses  near  by,  magnificent  docks  elsewhere,  various 
harbor  improvements  and  railroads,  would  certainly  be  very  suggestive  of  what 
Tacoma  has  accomplished  in  a  few  years.  But  to  say  that  these  improvements 
extend  along  the  water  front  for  a  distance  of  about  six  miles,  gives  a  larger  idea  of 
their  extent. 

These  features  of  Tacoma's  enterprise  and  prosperity  have  a  special  meaning. 
They  are  not  constructed  simply  as  a  matter  of  ornament.  Business  men  do  not 
do  things  that  way.  Business  methods  are  not  fancy  in  their  character.  These 
improvements  indicate  that  demands  exist  and  are  being  supplied.  And  Tacoma 
is  doing  the  supplying. 

Terminal  and  Shipping1  Facilities.  The  fact  that  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad  has  made  Tacoma  its  terminal  point  is,  of  itself,  enough  to  satisfy 
anyone  without  further  explanation  that  the  terminal  and  shipping  facilities  would 
be  commensurate  with  the  importance  of  a  great  trans-continental  railroad  com- 
pany's interests. 

The  immense  docks,  at  which  railroad  and  ocean  traffic  unite,  are  so  large  and 
involve  so  many  distinct  features  that  it  would  be  difficult  to  impart  to  any  one  not 
familiar  with  such  improvements  an  adequate  idea  of  their  extent  and  importance. 

It  is  not  an  uncommon  sight  to  see  lying  along  these  immense  dot:ks,  only  a 
few  feet  away  from  the  railroad  tracks,  an  ocean  sailing-vessel,  several  ocean  steam- 
ships, Alaska  steamers,  besides  a  host  of  smaller  craft.  This  will  suggest  the  char- 
acter and  extent  of  these  docks.  The  Northern  Pacific  Company  ha*,  immense 
warehouses  erected  on  these  docks,  and  all  the  conveniences  incident  to  t^e  prompt, 
careful,  and  expeditious  handling  of  freights.  It  is  often  a  difficult  matte  for  local 
craft  to  secure  dock  accommodations,  so  crowded  with  steamers  and  saili'-g-vessels 
do  the  docks  become. 

These  conveniences  are  such  that  the  handling  of  immense  cargoes  ?s  accom- 
plished with  ease  and  dispatch  scarcely  conceivable.  The  ships  laden  with  tea 
are  drawn  up  within  a  few  feet  of  the  great  warehouses,  alongside  of  which  are  the 
railroad  switches.  The  San  Francisco  steamers  also  discharge  their  freight  into 
these  warehouses.  Extensive  additions  have  been  made  to  these  docks  to  accom- 
modate the  ever-increasing  demand  for  room,  and  more  extensions  are  in 
contemplation. 

Trade  with  the  Middle  AVest.  The  trade  with  the  Middle  VY.-.tand 
in  the  Far  East  is  made  up  of  tea  and  lumber  and  shingles.  In  lumber  and  shingles 
most  promising  trade  relations  have  been  established  with  the  sections  referred 
to,  and  the  trade  in  these  products  is  constantly  increasing  in  volume.  Tile  excel- 
lence and  durability  of  the  cedar  shingles  manufactured  in  Tacoma  and  vicinity 
make  them  superior  to  any  manufactured  elsewhere,  and  large  quantitie?  are  now 
being  shipped  East.  The  qualities  of  Puget  Sound  lumber  has  made  is  famous 
all  over  the  world.  Tacoma,  being  the  terminal  point  of  that  great  tra  ls-conti- 
nental  artery  of  commerce,  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  naturally  enjoys  the 
results  of  such  special  advantages.  It  does  not  require  elaborate  reasoning  to 
convince  any  man  that  the  same  conditions  which  gave  rise  to  such  tradf  will  in- 
crease its  volume  rapidly  the  longer  the  relations  exist. 


SEATTLE. 

A  Town  of  Marvelous 
Growth. 

"  The  Queen  City 

of 

Puget  Sound." 


300  OVER    THE  RANGE 

Tea  Trade  with  the  Orient.  It  was  only  a  few  months  after  the 
completion  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Company's  Cascade  branch  that  the 
first  tea-ship  arrived  in  Tacoma  from  Yokahama.  This  shows  how  quickly  Ori- 
ental and  American  merchants  realized  the  advantages  attending  the  shipping  of 
tea  to  Tacoma.  The  great  gain  in  time  and  reduction  in  expense  were  the  consid- 
erations which  have  brought  to  Tacoma  such  an  important  branch  of  San  Fran- 
cisco trade.  Is  there  need  to  expand  on  the  significance  of  these  relations?  Is 
there  need  to  repeat  the  fact  that  trade  brings  trade  ?  Tea  and  lumber  will  not 
always  be  the  only  articles  of  commerce  between  the  Orient  and  Tacoma.  This 
is  only  the  beginning,  and  it  does  not  require  much  imagination  to  picture,  in  the 
near  future,  a  constant  stream  of  vessels,  both  steam  and  sail,  between  Tacoma 
and  the  various  commercial  cities  along  the  western  Pacific  coast.  Tacoma 
has  first  secured  these  trade  relations.     Such  relations  are  very  tenacious. 

Seattle  is  the  county-seat  of  King  County,  and 
is  known  far  and  near  as  the  "Queen  City  of  Puget 
Sound." 

It  has  a  present  population  of  90,000,  against 
3,500  in  1880.  The  city  contains  national  and  pri- 
vate banks,  daily  and  weekly  journals,  mortgage, 
loan,  and  trust  companies;  twenty  churches,  public 
school  buildings,  two  of  which  cost  $30,000  and 
$42,000  each;  a  territorial  university,  two  private 
colleges,  and  a  girl's  academy,  besides  numerous 
private  schools,  three  hospitals,  and  an  orphan's 
home.  The  wholesale  and  retail  stores  are  too  many  to  enumerate,  some  of  the 
former  doing  a  business  annually  of  $500,000  to  $1,000,000  each.  The  city  is 
admirably  supplied  with  pure  water,  both  by  numerous  private  companies  on  a 
small  scale  and  by  the  mammoth  works  of  the  Spring  Hill  Water  Company,  located 
at  Lake  Washington.  This  company  has  completed  a  great  reservoir  on  Central 
Hill,  315  feet  above  tide  level.  Connected  with  it  in  the  city  are  hydrants,  from 
which  fire-extinguishing  streams  are  thrown  far  above  the  highest  buildings  in  the 
business  part  of  the  city.  This  city  has  a  splendid  system  of  gas  wrorks  and  elec- 
tric lighting.  Both  arc  and  incandescent  lights  illuminate  the  streets.  Two  lines 
of  street  railway  are  in  operation  and  steadily  extending  outward,  and  several  other 
lines  are  projected.  It  contains  more  than  forty  benevolent  societies  and  fraternal 
lodges,  also  four  well  drilled  and  equipped  militia  companies.  During  the  past 
few  years  there  have  been  added  to  its  municipal  improvements  twenty-five  miles 
of  graded  streets  and  sixty  miles  of  sidewalk.  Some  of  the  recent  steps  in  the  pro- 
gress of  Seattle  as  a  metropolis  are  here  given.  On  October  1,  1887,  the  free  postal 
delivery  system  went  into  effect  in  the  city.  A  few  weeks  later  Seattle  was  made 
the  terminus  and  center  of  distribution  for  all  the  mails  for  the  entire  Puget  Sound 
country.  In  consequence  it  has  become  the  central  headquarters  and  home  port 
for  destination  and  departure  of  the  steamboat  system  of  the  Sound.  Within  its 
maritime  jurisdiction  are  now  plying  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  steamers. 
On  December  1,  1887,  the  United  States  District  Land  Office  was  removed  to 
Seattle,  making  this  city  the  principal  seat  of  the  public  land  business  in  western 
Washington. 

The  city  of  Seattle  contains  ten  saw-mills,  whose  plants  cost  $4,000,000,  which 
employ  over  a  thousand  men;  and  also  has  tributary  to  it,  within  a  radius  of  thirty- 
five  miles,  the  mammoth  lumbering  establishments  of  Port  Blakely,  Port  Madison. 


TO   THE  GOLDF.X   GATE. 


301 


Port  Discovery,  Port  Gamble,  Port  Ludlow,  Utsalady  and  Seabeck,  said  to  be  the 
largest  saw-mills  in  the  world,  some  of  them  having  a  capacity  of  350,000  feet  per 
diem,  and  employing  scores  of  sea-going  ships.  There  are  three  or  four  brick 
yards  and  tile  factories,  four  breweries,  numerous  bakeries,  candy  factories,  a 
cracker  factory,  several  sash,  door  and  blind  factories,  shingle  factory,  soap  works, 
furniture  factory,  soda  works,  bottling  establishments,  carpet-weavers,  match 
factory,  harness  and  saddlery,   blank  books  and  bindery,   book-printing,  several 


Befs 


boiler  works,  foundries,  iron  and  brass  works,  etc.;  numerous  boot  and  shoe  shops 
and  tailoring  establishments,  factories  of  shirts  and  underwear,  cigars,  millinery 
goods,  chair  stock,  barrels,  plaster  decorations,  etc.;  four  marble  and  stone-cutting 
works,  patent  medicines,  dressmakers,  hairwork,  carriage-makers,  wagon-shops, 
fish-packers,  coffee  and  spice  mill,  cabinetmakers,  boat-builders;  and  numerous 
dentists,  jewelers,  watchmakers,  florists,  nurserymen,  fancy  poultry  breeders  and 
stockmen,  furriers,  gun  and  locksmiths,  hatters,  meat  packers,  photographers, 
picture-framers  and  painters,  metallic-roof  works,  scroll-saw  works,  shipyards,  tin 
shops,  taxidermists,  chemists,  undertakers,  etc. 

The  export  trade  of  Seattle  and  Puget  Sound  is  very  large  and  is  rapidly  increas- 
ing.    As  Seattle  is  the  chief  metropolis  of  the  entire  Puget  Sound  region,  it  is  not 


302  OVER   THE  RANGE 

far  out  of  the  way  to  credit  the  most  of  this  business  as  her  commerce,  since  it  is 
largely  contributory  to  her  growth.  Besides  the  ordinary  shipments  of  coal,  lum- 
ber, hops,  oats,  wheat,  potatoes,  furs,  lime,  canned  and  barreled  salmon,  the  daily 
routine  export  trade  to  the  neighboring  British  ports  of  Victoria  and  British  Colum- 
bia forms  an  enormous  item. 

Advantages  of  Seattle.  The  special  advantages  of  Seattle  are  too 
numerous  to  mention  in  full.  A  few  may  be  specified,  as:  First — A  splendid 
harbor,  scarcely  equaled  in  the  world  for  the  varied  purposes  and  conveniences  of 
commerce.  Second — Its  central  position  relative  to  the  commerce  of  the  world,  as 
the  great  seaport  on  the  Pacific  Ocean  of  North  America,  and  directly  facing 
the  teeming  population  of  Asia  and  the  great  and  rich  islands  of  the  South  Seas. 
It  is  already  the  chief  port  of  supply  for  the  growing  trade  of  Alaska — a  great 
region,  more  extensive  than  the  thirteen  original  states  of  the  Union,  with  an  ocean 
coast  line  of  thousands  of  miles,  that  is  beginning  now  to  loom  up  as  a  great  coming 
source  of  supply  of  the  precious  metals,  as  well  as  of  furs,  fish,  whale  oil,  yellow 
cedar  and  ice.  Third — It  has  an  excellent  and  most  productive  soil  for  fruits,  flowers 
and  garden  produce,  of  such  a  nature  as  not  to  be  very  dusty  in  summer  nor  muddy 
in  winter.  Fourth — Its  exceptional  healthfulness.  The  death-rate  in  Seattle  is 
only  seven  in  one  thousand  per  annum,  which  is  less  than  one-third  that  of  the 
Northern  cities  of  the  Union.  Fifth — Its  mild,  even,  and  delicious  climate,  free  from 
all  dangers  from  the  clouds  above,  from  vapors  or  miasma  around,  or  the  fires 
beneath.  Sixth — Its  surroundings  on  all  sides,  except  the  magnificent  harbor 
front,  by  grand  lakes  and  deep,  navigable  rivers,  which  have  caused  it  to  be  officially 
designated  as  the  location  of  a  great  naval  station  and  construction  yard.  Seventh — 
The  one-third  mile  canal  now  completed  between  Lakes  Union  and  Washington 
in  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  furnishes  a  great  water-power  of  incalculable  value  for 
manufacturing  and  motive  power. 

Seattle  has  two  lines  of  local  railroad  completed  and  in  operation,  the  Colum- 
bia &  Puget  Sound,  with  two  branches,  one  twenty  miles  long,  running  to  New- 
castle, the  other  forty  miles  long,  running  to  the  Black  Diamond  and  Franklin 
collieries;  and  the  Puget  Sound  Shore  Line,  extending  through  a  link  of  the  North- 
ern Pacific  Railroad,  and  placing  the  city  in  connection  with  the  Northern  Pacific, 
the  Oregon  Railway  &  Navigation  Company,  the  Oregon  Short  Line,  the  Rio 
Grande  system,  the  Union  Pacific,  the  Oregon  &  California,  the  Southern  Pacific, 
and  the  general  railroad  system  of  the  United  States. 

The  Canadian  Pacific  has  been  pushed  through  the  Canadian  Dominion  by 
British  capital,  to  a  Pacific  terminus,  something  over  a  hundred  miles  north  of 
Seattle,  and  the  Seattle  &  West  Coast  Railroad,  which  furnishes  the  connecting 
link,  and  makes  Seattle  the  American  terminus  of  this  great  system.  This  line,  as 
regards  the  carrying  trade,  is  as  much  an  element  in  the  transportation  problem  of 
the  Northwest  as  any  of  the  American  roads. 

Beauty  of  the  City.  The  city  presents  a  beautiful  and  striking 
appearance  from  whatever  side  it  is  approached.  It  rises  from  the  water  front 
to  the  crest  of  a  hill  in  a  gradual  slope.  The  site  is  most  beautiful.  The  city 
extends  about  four  miles  along  the  water  front.  The  whole  water  front  is  lined 
with  mills,  manufacturing  establishments  of  various  kinds,  commission  and  storage, 
and  warehouses. 

Steamers  are  constantly  arriving  and  departing;  regular  lines  run  to  Tacoma 
and  Olympia,  to  Port  Townsend  and  Victoria,  to  Whatcom  and  other  points  on 
Bellingham  Bay,  and  to  the  Skagit  River;  there  are  regular  steamers  to  Alaska 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  303 

San  Francisco,  San  Diego,  and  other  points  in  California.  Ships  from  China, 
Japan,  Australia,  crowd  its  docks.  In  addition  to  the  great  and  varied  industries 
on  the  water  front,  there  are  business  blocks,  higher  up,  that  would  do  credit  to  any 
Eastern  city.  The  residence  portion  of  Seattle  is  unsurpassed  for  beauty.  There- 
are  hundreds  of  homes  costing  from  three  thousand  to  fifty  thousand  dollars,  sur- 
rounded by  charming  grounds,  and  so  located  and  constructed  as  to  command 
magnificent  views  of  the  Sound,  the  Olympic  and  Cascade  Ranges  of  mountains, 
always  covered  with  snow,  and  the  mighty  peaks  of  Mounts  Rainier  and  Baker. 
To  the  north  of  the  city  and  (lose  up  to  it  lies  the  beautiful  Lake  Union,  a  body  of 
fresh  water  covering  a  section  or  two  of  land,  and  of  immense  depth.  The  heights 
about  this  lake  are  being  covered  with  pleasant  homes,  and  in  the  near  future  it  will 
be  a  most  delightful  resort.  To  the  east  of  the  city,  four  miles  from  the  bav,  but 
now  hardly  a  mile  from  the  city  limits,  lies  Lake  Washington,  twenty-five  miles  in 
length  by  from  two  to  four  in  width.  It  is  clear,  fresh,  sparkling  water,  so  deep 
that  it  cannot  or  has  not  yet  been  sounded.  The  lake  is  hemmed  in  by  hills 
covered  with  giant  forest  trees.  The  water  supply  of  Seattle  is  drawn  from  this 
lake.  It  is  connected  with  Lake  Union  by  a  small  stream,  which  is  being  enlarged 
into  a  ship  canal,  so  that  within  a  year  or  two  the  largest  steamers  and  ships  will  go 
directly  from  the  salt  water  of  the  Sound  into  the  clear,  fresh  water  of  Lake  Wash- 
ington. It  will  make  one  of  the  finest  ship-building  points  and  dry-dock  stations 
in  the  world,  and  will  certainly  be  utilized  for  such  purposes,  either  by  the  National 
Government  or  private  enterprise.  There  is  certainly  not  within  the  national 
domain  such  an  eligible  location  for  a  great  navy  yard.  Special  attention  is  being 
paid  to  the  establishment  of  manufacturing  industries  in  Seattle,  and  almost  every 
week  some  new  enterprise  is  materialized.  Henry  Villard,  in  his  visit  to  the  city 
in  1878,  designated  it  "The  Queen  City."  Situated  as  it  is,  in  the  heart  of  western 
Washington,  with  railways  running  out  in  many  directions,  with  a  harbor  equal 
to  any  in  the  world,  the  city  well  deserves  the  title.  The  city  is  the  nucleus  of 
territorial  commerce;  all  the  prosperity  of  the  country  is  reflected  in  the  general 
progress  of  the  city.  The  history  of  the  city  is  the  history  of  the  whole  Northwest. 
It  is  the  supply  depot  and  shipping  port  for  a  quarter  of  a  million  people;  it  is  the 
wholesale  and  retail  market  for  a  vast  territory.  Its  commerce  within  the  last  two 
years  has  assumed  enormous  proportions.  It  is  the  coal  and  lumber  shipping 
depot  for  the  whole  Pacific  coast.  It  is  the  heart  of  navigation  of  Puget  Sound. 
Nearly  two  hundred  steamers  radiate  from  the  wharves  to  different  local  points. 
(Population,  90,000;   distance  from  San  Francisco,  940  miles.) 


OGDEN   TO   PORTLAND 

VIA    THE   OREGON   SHORT   LINE    AND    THE    OREGON 
RAILWAY   AND    NAVIGATION    CO. 


HE  lines  of  the  Oregon  Short  Line  Railway  andj.hc  Oregon  Railway 
and  Navigation  Company,  both  rail  and  water  routes,  form  an  exten- 
sive line  of  complete  communication  between  all  points  in  the  great 
northwest.  The  main  line  extends  from  Ogden  in  a  northwesterly 
direction  to  Portland,  with  branch  lines  reaching  to  Butte  and 
Helena,  Montana,  to  the  famed  Yellowstone  Park,  to  the  rich  mining 
regions  of  Idaho,  Oregon,  and  Washington. 

The  scenery  on  this  route  is  equal  in  many  respects  to  that  of  the  lines  described 
in  the  preceding  pages,  and  the  beautiful  country  descending  the  Columbia  River 
from  Umatilla  to  Portland  is  replete  with  grand  views  of  mountain,  meadow,  and 
valley. 

Og*<len,  Utah.  The  southern  terminus  of  this  line  is  described  elsewhere 
in  this  volume,  and  boarding  one  of  the  elegant  trains  of  the  Oregon  Short  Line 
at  the  Union  station  at  Ogden  we  start  on  our  journey  to  the  northwest  and  reach, 
as  the  first  station  on  our  trip 

Hot  Spring's,  Utall.  Very  picturesque  as  to  location,  being  surrounded 
by  rugged  mountains,  which  attain  an  altitude  of  more  than  a  mile  above  the 
springs,  which  are  situated  four  thousand  two  hundred  and  forty-six  feet  above  the 
sea  level. 

Bl'ig'hani,  Utall,  population  3,000,  is  a  county-seat  of  Box  Elder  County; 
has  a  bank,  opera-house,  electric  lights,  telephone  exchange,  flour-mill,  planing- 
mill,  and  knitting  factory,  marble  and  onyx  works,  creamery,  schools,  the 
largest  of  which  cost  twenty-seven  thousand  five  hundred  dollars,  three  churches. 
Principal  industry,  fruit-shipping;  specialty,  strawberries,  cherries,  peaches,  and 
cantaloupes.  The  commercial  center  of  Bear  River  Valley,  irrigated  by  the  Bear 
River  Land,  Orchard  and  Beet  Sugar  Company,  which  company  operates  one  of 
the  largest  canals  in  the  Uinted  States,  covering  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
acres  of  choice  land.  Finest  duck-shooting  grounds  in  the  inter-mountain  region, 
fifteen  miles  distant. 

Dewey,  Utah,  population,  200,  is  the  shipping-point  for  Bear  River 
Valley,  one  of  the  finest  farming  sections  in  the  state.  Good  duck-hunting,  good 
grain,  hay,  and  fruit  section. 

Collistoil,  Utah.  Population,  100,  a  tributary  population  of  3,000  in 
surrounding  country.  Principal  business  carried  on  is  farming  and  stock-raising. 
Bear  River  Water  Company  has  fine  canal  running  through  country,  and  now 
is  opening  up  a  branch  of  canal  on  east  side  of  river  next  the  station;  a 
power  company  is  now  surveying  for  an  electric  plant,  to  be  established  close  to 
station. 

Cache  Junction,   Utah.     Population,  300.     Good  farming  and  cattle 

3°4 


A  MIGHTY   CLIMB.      CRIPPLE  CREEK  SHORT   LINE. 


ST.   PETER'S   DOME.     CRIPPLE  CREEK  SHORT  LINE. 


306  OVER   THE  RANGE 

country.  Is  the  junctional  point  with  the  branch  to  Preston.  On  the  Preston 
branch  we  soon  reach 

Logan,  Utah.  Population,  6,000.  County-seat  of  Cache  County,  one 
hundred  miles  north  of  Salt  Lake  City.  Lighted  by  electric  lights.  Has  complete 
water  system  owned  by  city,  good  public  schools,  and  in  addition  has  the  State 
Agricultural  College,  Brigham  Young  College,  and  New  Jersey  (Presbyterian) 
Academy.  Has  two  newspapers,  opera-house,  eight  hundred  capacity;  two  banks, 
beet-sugar  factory,  four  flour  mills,  four  planing-mills,  two  knitting  factories,  one 
woolen  mill,  two  breweries,  one  agricultural  implement  factory,  one  steam  laundry, 
one  grain  elevator,  two  cold-storage  houses,  two  creameries,  one  foundry. 

Franklin,  Idaho.  Population,  S50.  Principal  industries,  agriculture 
and  stock-raising,  creamery,  flour-mill,  planing-mill,  woolen  mill,  and  brick-making. 
Excellent  trout-fishing  within  two  blocks  of  Oregon  Short  Line  depot.  Special 
rates  at  hotels  to  fishing  parties. 

Preston,  Idaho,  population,  1,500,  is  in  Oneida  County,  and  situated  in 
the  extreme  southeastern  portion  of  the  state,  it  being  the  terminus  of  the  Cache 
Valley,  or  Preston  branch  of  the  Oregon  Short  Line  Railroad.  It  is  in  a 
very  fertile  and  productive  district.  The  principal  industries  are  farming  and 
stock-raising.  There  are  about  twenty  thousand  acres  of  land  under  irrigation  in 
the  vicinity,  the  going  price  of  which,  with  water-rights,  is  fifty  to  sixty  dollars  per 
acre,  the  price  of  dry  farm  land  being  from  ten  to  twelve  dollars  per  acre.  Wheat 
is  the  principal  farm  product. 

Returning  to  the  main  line  at  Cache  Junction,  and  resuming  our  northward 
journey,  we  pass  Ransom,  a  small  station,  being  the  last  one  in  Utah. 

Oxford,  Idaho.  Population,  400.  Industries,  agriculture,  stock-raising, 
and  dairying. 

McCammon,  Idaho.  Population,  300.  Fine  surrounding  valleys,  well 
settled.  Farming  community;  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep  handled  in  large  quanti- 
ties; flour-mill,  capacity  one  hundred  and  fifty  barrels  per  day,  takes  care  of  all 
wheat  raised  in  vicinity.  Portneuf  River,  running  through  town,  has  numerous 
falls  of  from  six  to  twenty-four  feet,  affording  large  water-power,  which  at  present 
is  unused  and  generally  unclaimed.  About  ten  thousand  acres  of  farming  land 
within  ten  miles  of  town,  practically  all  under  irrigation  ditches,  price  with  water- 
right  ranges  from  forty  to  one  hundred  dollars  per  acre.  Junctional  point  with  the 
branch  line  to  Granger,  Wyo. 

Pocatello,  Idaho.  Population,  5,000.  Commands  only  gateway  into 
central  Idaho  from  east  and  south;  is  at  intersection  of  the  two  main  trunks  of  the 
Oregon  Short  Line  system,  one  connecting  Salt  Lake  and  Butte  and  the  other 
Portland  and  river  points.  It  is  the  southern  terminal  for  the  St.  Anthony  branch, 
and  for  the  newly  constructed  Salmon  River  Railroad  piercing  central  Idaho.  Has 
the  largest  railroad  shops  on  the  Oregon  Short  Line  system,  and  work  to  rebuild 
plant  at  a  cost  of  eight  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  has  just  begun;  the 
present  shop  force  is  five  hundred  men,  and  will  be  increased  to  eight  hundred  men 
with  the  new  plant.  The  present  population  and  commercial  importance  has  been 
secured  in  ten  years.  The  city  has  well-graded  streets  and  shade  trees,  splendid 
water  system,  mountain  springs,  electric  light,  and  telephone  systems,  with  connec- 
tions with  all  inter-mountain  points;  has  substantial  brick  and  stone  business  blocks, 
handsome  private  residences,  splendid  public  school  system,  all  religious  denomina- 
tions represented  with  modern  church  edifices.  Is  the  county-seat  of  Bannock 
County,  and  has  under  construction  a  twenty  thousand  dollar  court-house,  and 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  307 

work  is  just  beginning  on  the  Academy  of  Idaho,  which  is  1 si  two  hundred 

thousand  dollars. 

From  Pocatello  we  will  find  it  interesting  to  take  a  short  side  trip  to  the  Yellow- 
stone and  Butte. 

Blackfoot,  Idaho.  Population,  1,500.  The  first  station  north  of  Pocatello 
and  connecting-point  of  the  Salmon  River  Railroad  branch  road.  It  is  the  county- 
seat  of  Bingham  County;  also  the  seat  of  the  United  States  Land  Office  of  the 
largest  district  in  the  state,  and  also  one  of  the  state  institutions  -the  Insane 
Asylum.  Blackfoot  is  the  shipping-point  for  all  the  mining  camps  in  Custer 
County.  The  principal  industries  are  farming,  stock-raising,  and  placer-mining 
along  Snake  River.  Fruit-raising  is  one  of  the  coming  industries.  Large  quanti- 
ties of  small  fruits  are  shipped  each  season.  Bingham  County  has  more  miles  of 
canals  and  irrigation  ditches  than  any  county  in  the  state.  Thousands  of  acres  of 
government  land  are  subject  to  entry  at  the  local  land  office,  while  valuable  farms, 
well  improved,  can  be  bought  from  eight  to  twenty-five  dollars  per  acre. 

Idaho  Falls,  Idaho.  Population,  1,700.  Electric  lights,  waterworks, 
long-distance  telephone,  also  city  exchange,  seven  churches,  public  schools, 
creamery,  planing-mill,  five  large  flour  mills;  surrounding  country  exclusively 
engaged  in  stock-raising  and  agriculture.  Finest  farming  country  in  the  state, 
rrop  failures  unknown.  Soil  adapted  to  lucerne,  potatoes,  and  small  grain.  The 
rountry  is  developing  rapidly.  Thousands  of  acres  of  the  richest  farming  land  in 
the  Snake  River  Yalley  under  successful  irrigation. 

Market  Lake,  Idaho.  Population,  150.  Good  schools,  principal 
industries  farming  and  stock-raising.  Plenty  of  good  free  range  west  of  town. 
Butte  and  Market  Lake  Canal  runs  close  to  the  town,  and  covers  about  seventeen 
thousand  acres  of  fine  farming  land. 

Dubois,  Idaho.     Population,  200.      Industries,  stock-raising  exclusively. 

Spencer,  Idaho.  Population,  50.  Sheep-raising  is  the  chief  industry, 
being  the  headquarters  for  live  stock.  The  surrounding  country  affords  a  fine 
summer  range. 

Monida,  Montana.  Population,  50.  Situated  on  the  summit  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  6,960  feet  above  level  of  the  sea.  Stock-raising  is  the  principal 
industry  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  but  back  in  the  country  about  thirty  or  forty 
miles  grain  is  raised  to  some  extent.  In  what  is  known  as  the  Centennial  Valley 
a  vein  of  very  rich  gold  ore  has  been  located,  which  tends  to  increase  the  value  of 
the  country  to  a  great  extent.  At  this  point  we  leave  the  railway  for  the  stage 
tour  of  the  Yellowstone  Park. 

The  Yellowstone  Park,  Montana.  Monida,  a  station  on  the 
Oregon  Short  Line  Railroad,  on  the  crest  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  seven  thousand 
feet  above  the  tide,  is  the  starting-point  for  the  stage  ride,  and  is  less  than  one 
day's  coaching  distance  from  the  Yellowstone  Park.  The  name  "Monida"  is  a 
composite  of  the  first  syllables  of  "Montana"  and  "Idaho." 

The  lower  Geyser  Basin  in  the  park  is  about  the  same  elevation  as  Monida,  so 
that  the  stage  route  passes  through  a  level  country,  and  all  the  way  is  lined  with 
picturesque  scenes,  making  the  coaching  trip  one  of  the  most  delightful  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains. 

Rev.  T.  DeWitt  Talmage,  who,  with  his  party,  visited  Salt  Lake  City  and  other 
portions  of  the  west  during  the  summer  of  1898,  says:  "But  the  most  delightful 
part  of  this  American  continent  is  the  Yellowstone  Park.  My  two  visits  there  made 
upon  me  an  impression  that  will  last  forever.     Go  in  via  the  Monidda  route,  as  we 


308  OVER    THE  RANGE 

did  this  summer,  and  save  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  railroading,  your  stage 
coach  taking  you  through  a  day  of  scenery  as  captivating  and  sublime  as  Yellow- 
stone Park  itself." 

The  stage  road  from  Monida  to  the  park  threads  the  foothills  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  skirting  beautiful  Centennial  Valley,  the  Red  Rock  Lakes,  and  after 
passing  through  Alaska  Basin,  crosses  the  Divide  to  Henry  Lake  in  Idaho,  whence 
it  recrosses  the  range  into  Montana  via  Targhe  Pass,  near  the  Western  entrance  to 
the  park.  Red  Rock  Lakes  are  one  of  the  sources  of  the  Missouri  River,  and  in 
Henry  Lake  originates  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Snake.  From  Henry  Lake  are 
distinctly  visible  the  famous  Teton  Peaks.  Near  the  western  entrance  to  the  park 
prettily  situated  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Madison  River,  is  Grayling  Inn  (Dwelles), 
the  night  station  for  tourists  going  in  and  out  of  the  park.  After  passing  Grayling 
Inn  the  road  enters  the  reservation,  winding  through  Christmas  Tree  Park  to 
Riverside  Military  station,  following  the  beautiful  Madison  River  and  canon  to  the 
Fountain  Hotel  in  Lower  Geyser  Basin. 

The  Yellowstone  National  Park,  Montana.  Lies  principally 
in  the  northwest  corner  of  Wyoming,  though  portions  of  it  creep  over  into 
Montana  and  Idaho.  In  1872  its  3,344  square  miles  were  withdrawn  from  the 
public  domain  by  an  Act  of  Congress,  "and  dedicated  and  set  apart  as  a  public 
park,  or  pleasure  ground,  for  the  benefit  and  enjoyment  of  the  people."  It  is 
nature's  great  curiosity  shop.  Around  it  are  ranges  having  peaks  fourteen  hundred 
feet  high,  and  within  it  are  a  diversity  of  incomparable  marvels  of  nature  which 
neither  pen  nor  tongue  can  fitly  depict. 

Here,  amid  the  grandeur  of  Alpine  scenery,  tinted  with  colors  of  indescribable 
variety  and  beauty,  are  geysers  spouting  at  precise  intervals  their  scalding  waters 
skyward;  terrace-building  fountains;  pools  of  steaming  clay;  everlasting  springs 
iced  in  earth's  depths  or  boiling  from  her  furnaces;  and  the  Yellowstone  Lake,  a 
mile  and  a  half  above  sea  level;  and  romantic  vales  and  shaded  glens;  and  all  else 
that  prodigal  creative  genius  could  furnish  to  fill  the  land  with  wonders. 

The  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Yellowstone,  Montana.  A  gash 
in  the  earth  ten  miles  long  and  one  thousand  two  hundred  feet  deep — its  awful 
depths  stirred  by  the  music  of  the  rushing  river;  its  great  falls  roaring  and  whisper- 
ing every  sound  described  in  the  swinging  old  rhyme,  "The  Way  the  Waters  Come 
Down  at  Ladore;"  its  painted  walls,  lurid  with  every  tint  from  the  palette  of  the 
Master;  and  all  the  blended  colors  of  all  the  paint-pots  ever  mixed  by  mortal  or 
immortal  hands;  its  shadows,  somber  and  gray;  its  sun-gilded  pinnacles — who 
shall  describe  that  ? 

What  an  awful,  what  a  majestic,  what  an  incomparable  wonder  it  is  ?  To  see 
its  cliffs  of  volcanic  glass,  its  unsurpassed  water  effects,  its  mountains  of  petrifac- 
tions, its  hills  of  brimstone,  its  perpetually  snow-covered  peaks,  is  to  gaze  upon  a 
spectacle  of  grandeur  such  as  the  world  elsewhere  cannot  produce. 

The  rivers  and  lakes  of  Yellowstone  abound  in  trout,  the  United  States  Fish 
Commission  having  stocked  many  of  the  waters.  Native  trout  only  are  found  in 
the  Yellowstone  Lake  and  River,  but  the  Fire  Hole,  Gibbon,  and  Nez  Perces  Rivers, 
and  Indian,  Willow,  and  Shoshone  creeks  are  filled  with  eastern  trout. 

In  Madison  River  native  and  eastern  trout,  whitefish  and  grayling  abound. 

Rainbow  trout  were  once  planted  in  the  Gibbon  River,  but  they  sought  the 
deeper  waters  of  the  Madison,  from  whence  specimens  weighing  six  pounds  and 
over  have  been  taken. 

There  are  land-locked  salmon  twenty  to  thirty  inches  long  in  Shoshone  Lake. 


310  OVER   THE  RANGE 

The  rules  of  the  park  as  to  hunting  and  fishing  are  very  strict,  but  as  yet  few 
regulations  have  been  interposed  to  the  use  of  the  rod.  Ladies  enjoy  trout  fishing 
in  Yellowstone  Lake,  where  rowboats  and  guides  are  easily  obtained. 

Two  companies  of  United  States  cavalry  are  stationed  at  Fort  Yellowstone 
(Mammoth  Hot  Springs).  During  the  summer  detachments  of  these  troops  are 
placed  at  different  localities  in  the  reservation.  Their  duties  are  to  patrol  the  park, 
prevent  the  spreading  of  forest  fires  and  the  commission  of  acts  of  vandalism.  The 
troops  have  authority  to  arrest  for  any  violation  of  park  regulations.  Hunting  is 
especially  prohibited,  and  all  guns  are  officially  sealed  at  the  entrance  to  the  park. 

The  commanding  officer  at  Fort  Yellowstone  is  acting  superintendent  of  the 
reservation. 

All  rules  and  regulations  emanate  from  the  department  of  the  interior,  and 
printed  copies  of  the  same  will  be  found  at  every  hotel. 

Returning  to  Monida  after  our  tour  of  the  park  we  resume  our  northward 
journey. 

Lima,  Montana.  Population,  500.  Source  of  revenue  are  railroad  em- 
ployment, the  machine  shops,  round-house,  and  fine  gravel  pit.  Horses,  cattle, 
sheep,  wool,  hay,  and  grain;  twenty-five  thousand  acres  of  land  under  irrigation 
are  tributary.  Valuable  deposits  of  gypsum,  white  and  red  sand-stone,  as  well  as 
good  supply  of  timber,  can  be  found  in  mountains  nearby,  while  copper  deposits 
are  plentiful  in  Sheep  Creek,  twelve  miles  distant;  good  water  supply. 

Red  Rock,  Montana.  Population,  50.  Red  Rock  is  the  center  of 
extensive  stock  interest,  very  considerable  shipments  of  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep 
being  made.  It  is  the  nearest  railroad  and  shipping  point  for  Lemhi  County, 
Idaho,  and  extensive  gold  and  copper-mining  districts  around  Salmon  City  and 
Blackbird,  Idaho.  The  recent  developments  in  this  section  of  country  are  bringing 
it  greatly  into  prominence.     Stage  leaves  daily  for  all  these  points. 

Dillon,  Montana.  Population,  2,500.  It  is  one  of  those  marvels  of  the 
aggressive  west,  and  is  to-day  one  of  the  solid,  substantial  towns  of  the  great 
northwest.  It  is  the  county-seat  of  Beaverhead  County,  and  is  most  beautifully 
laid  out  in  one  of  the  prettiest  mountain  valleys.  It  is  the  metropolis  of  a  region 
two  thousand  square  miles  in  extent,  and  is  the  distributing-point  for  the  richest 
and  most  productive  country  in  the  state  of  Montana,  half  of  which  is  mountainous, 
highly  mineralized,  and  also  utilized  for  grazing  lands  for  vast  herds  of  cattle, 
horses,  and  sheep.  The  other  half  is  farming  land,  very  fertile.  No  other  section 
is  so  favored  for  the  settler  or  the  capitalist.  All  the  comforts  of  life  are  to  be  had 
in  Dillon.     The  public  school  facilities  are  unexcelled. 

Melrose,  Montana.  Population,  200.  Located  about  midway  between 
Dillon  and  Butte  in  the  Big  Hole  Valley,  twelve  miles  from  the  mining  town  of 
Rochester,  with  a  population  of  five  hundred,  and  a  good  market  for  all  kinds  of 
produce.  Industries,  mining,  farming,  and  stock-raising;  principal  crops  grown, 
potatoes,  hay,  and  oats. 

Divide,  Montana.  Population,  50.  Located  on  the  bank  of  the  Big 
Hole  River,  about  twenty-seven  miles  south  of  Butte.  Principal  industries,  agri- 
cultural and  stock-raising.  In  this  valley  there  are  about  three  thousand  acres 
of  land  under  water.  Divide  is  the  distributing-point  for  the  Big  Hole  Basin, 
which  lies  some  twenty  miles  to  the  west.  The  Basin  is  about  fifty  miles  square, 
mostly  under  water.  Industries  in  this  Basin,  livestock  pnly,  all  fine  hay  land. 
Hunting  and  fishing  all  through  this  vicinity;  grayling,  trout,  and  whitefish;  deer, 
bear,  elk,  moose,  and  small  game. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  31 1 

Silver  Bow,  Montana.     Population,  120.    The  terminus  of  this  branch 

of  the  Oregon  Short  Line.     From  this  point  to  Butte  the  trains  run  over  (lie  tracks 
of  the  Northern  Pacific  Company. 

Butte,  Montana.  Population,  30,470.  Gas  and  electric  light;  com- 
mercial center  of  Montana;  greatest  mining  camp  in  America.  Junction  point  of 
Oregon  Short  Line  and  Great  Northern  Railways,  on  main  line  Northern  Pacific. 
City  growing  rapidly,  immense  amount  building  in  operation;  electric  cars  to  all 
parts  of  the  city;  largest  dancing-hall  in  northwest  at  Columbia  gardens;  fishing 
and  hunting  on  tin-  Big  Hole  River  is  delight  of  good  sportsmen.  The  Thornton 
Hotel  is  now  open  for  visitors;  each  room  is  connected  with  office  by  telephone; 
hot  and  cold  water,  and  private  bath  is  in  each  room.  Besides  the  Thornton, 
there  are  several  other  fine  hotels;  all  American  and  European  plan. 

Having  visited  the  famous  copper  mines  of  Butte,  the  City  of  Helena,  and  other 
points  of  interest  in  this  vicinity,  we  return  to  Pocatello  and  resume  our  journey 
toward  Portland. 

American  Falls,  Idaho.  Population,  7^.  Principal  industries,  agri- 
cultural, in  small  grains  and  fruit;  stock-raising  is  the  largest  industry.  Placer- 
mining  in  Snake  River.  Available  land  now  under  water,  which  is  all  taken  up, 
about  three  thousand  acres.  There  is  under  construction  now  an  irrigation  canal 
of  sixty-four  miles  in  length;  water  taken  from  Snake  River  at  Blackfoot,  Idaho, 
and  will  extend  thirteen  miles  below  this  town.  This  canal  will  irrigate  about 
four  hundred  thousand  acres  of  good  soil,  available  to  raise  any  grain  or  fruit  sub- 
ject to  this  country.  A  power-plant  is  also  located  here  and  run  by  water-power, 
and  generates  three  thousand  horse-power,  and  light  and  power  is  furnished  for 
all  surrounding  towns. 

Minidoka,  Idaho.  Population,  1,200.  Daily  stage  for  Albion  and  Oak- 
ley, which  are  the  trading-points  for  the  best  and  one  of  the  wealthiest  farm  and 
fruit-growing  spots  of  the  west.  Albion  supports  the  state  normal  school,  which 
has  only  the  best  faculty  and  educational  facilities.  Snake  River  is  the  scene  of 
much  placer  and  dredge  mining,  and  within  a  radius  of  ten  miles  from  Minidoka 
there  are  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  washed  from  the  sands  of  this  river 
yearly. 

Kiinama,  Idaho.  Population,  25.  Situated  upon  the  great  rocky  desert 
of  Idaho.  Kimama  is  forty  miles  north  of  Oakley,  Idaho;  sixty  miles  northeast  of 
Rock  Creek,  Idaho.  No  farming  nearer  than  the  two  above-named  places. 
Thousands  of  : -veep  and  horses  are  herded  in  this  vicinity. 

Shoshone,  Idaho.  Population,  500.  Is  the  county-seat  of  Lincoln 
County,  situated  in  the  center  of  the  great  lava  desert.  Shoshone  and  vicinity  are 
well  watered  by  the  two  mountain  streams,  Big  and  Little  Wood  River,  is  trans- 
formed into  a  veritable  oasis  in  the  midst  of  the  desert.  These  streams  furnish 
water  for  the  many  fertile  farms  and  orchards,  for  which  this  part  of  Idaho  is 
becoming  famous.  Wool-growing  is  the  principal  industry.  Placer  mining  is  also 
extensively  carried  on  along  the  shores  of  Snake  River.  The  great  attraction  for 
sight-seers  is  the  Shoshone  Falls,  situated  about  twenty-five  miles  southeast  of 
Shoshone  on  Snake  River;  a  daily  stage  connects  them  with  main  line  at  that  place. 
Shoshone  is  the  junction-point  with  the  Wood  River  branch  to  Bellevue,  Hailey, 
and  Ketchum. 

Bellevue,  Idaho.  Population,  800.  Bellevue  is  the  supply-point  for  the 
agricultural  sections  of  Silver  Creek,  Spring  Creek,  Little  Wood  River,  and  Muldoon, 
from  ten  to  twenty-two  miles  distant.     The  great  summer  range  for  the  vast  cattle 


3 12  OVER   THE  RANGE 

and  sheep  herds  supports  a  large  agricultural  section.  Wheat,  oats,  and  hay,  also 
the  best  fruits  of  all  kinds,  are  raised  here.  Wood  River,  Silver  Creek,  and  Little 
Wood  River  furnish  ample  water  for  irrigating-ditches.  Silver  and  lead  mining 
is  a  great  industry  for  this  section.  The  Minnie  Moore  mine  that  has  produced 
over  seven  million  dollars  in  dividends,  is  being  worked  by  Chicago  capitalists, 
and  is  only  one  mile  from  Bellevue. 

Hailey,  Idaho.  Population,  1,460.  Is  the  county-seat  of  Blain  County, 
situated  on  Big  Wood  River,  surrounded  by  rich  mining  country.  Has  electric 
lights,  long-distance  telephone,  also  city  exchange.  Hot  springs  one  mile  west  of 
town,  surrounded  by  beautiful  mountains,  where  bathing  can  be  had.  First-class 
hotel,  all  modern  conveniences.  Good  schools,  churches,  etc.  Fish  and  game  in 
abundance. 

Ketchum,  Idaho,  Population,  300.  At  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
Wood  River  branch;  is  an  excellent  summer  resort.  The  chief  industries  are  mining 
and  stock-raising.  About  one  thousand  acres  of  land  are  under  irrigation,  and  a 
large  acreage  is  available.  Three  miles  west  of  Ketchum  are  the  Guyer  Hot 
Sulphur  Springs,  where  there  is  located  a  roomy  hotel,  with  beautiful  grounds, 
surrounded  by  numerous  cottages,  and  good  fishing  and  hunting.  Facilities  are 
provided  for  steam,  tub,  and  plunge  baths,  and  accommodations  for  one  hundred 
people. 

Bli.SS,  Idaho.  Again  on  the  main  line.  Population,  500.  Nearest  station 
to  Hagerman,  reached  by  stage.  Principal  industry,  farming  and  stock-raising; 
good  fishing  in  vicinity. 

Glenn's  Ferry,  Idaho.  Population,  about  500.  Stock-raising  is  about 
the  only  business  of  any  note,  although  there  is  some  ranching. 

Mountain  Home,  Idaho.  Population,  1,000.  County-seat  of  Elmore 
County.  Stock-raising  principal  industry.  Mining  and  farming  carried  on  quite 
extensively.     About  five  thousand  acres  of  land  under  water. 

]NTampa,  Idaho.  Population,  1,500.  Industries,  fine  agricultural  and  fruit, 
and  exceptional  stock-raising  facilities.  Iron  foundry,  canning,  and  evaporating 
establishments;  creamery.  One  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  acres  fine  land  now 
under  water;  forty  thousand  acres  under  cultivation,  balance  will  be  irrigated  upon 
completion  of  present  irrigation  plants.     Junctional  point  with  branch  line  to  Boise. 

Meridian,  Idaho.  Population,  300.  Midway  between  Nampa  and  Boise. 
Two  churches,  fine  creamery,  school-house,  accommodating  the  largest  school  in 
Ada  County,  outside  of  Boise,  and  four  general  stores.  The  town  is  comparatively 
new,  but  is  being  pushed  ahead  by  thickly  settled  farming  settlement  surrounding  it. 
The  principal  industries  are  fruit-growing,  hay,  and  stock-raising.  Land  is  valued 
at  fifteen  to  forty  dollars  per  acre.  Plenty  of  water  for  present  necessities  and 
for  considerable  more  land  than  is  under  cultivation,  with  good  prospects  for  much 
more  available  in  the  near  future. 

Boise  City,  Idaho.  Population,  5,957.  Is  the  capital  of  Idaho.  The 
city  has  electric  lights,  waterworks,  and  paved  streets;  many  of  the  buildings  are 
heated  by  natural  hot  water.  The  natatorium  is  one  of  the  very  finest  bathing- 
resorts  in  the  inter-mountain  country.  The  principal  industries  carried  on  in  the 
vicinity  are  mining,  fruit-growing,  agriculture,  cattle  and  sheep  raising;  a  vast  wool 
production  centers  in  the  city.  There  are  two  national  and  two  state  banks  in 
Boise.  There  is  one  hundred  thousand  acres  of  available  land  in  the  Boise  Valley 
not  yet  under  cultivation,  but  under  water;  land  for  agricultural  purposes  ranges 
in  price  in  the  raw  state  from  ten  to  fifteen  dollars  per  acre;  nearer  the  city  land  is 


3 1 4  OVER   THE  RANGE 

valued  at  from  twenty-five  to  forty  dollars  per  acre.  All  this  land  is  adapted  to 
fruit-growing,  but  that  nearer  the  city  has  a  special  value  for  that  purpose. 

Caldwell,  Idaho.  Population,  1,500.  Stock-raising  and  agricultural. 
Available  land  under  water,  five  thousand  acres.      Four  newspapers  and  two  banks. 

Payette,  Idaho.  Population,  1,200.  In  the  Payette  and  Snake  River 
Valleys,  surrounded  by  very  fertile  lands,  irrigated  by  waters  from  these  streams, 
contiguous  to  unlimited  open  range  and  possessing  a  very  mild  climate,  this  is  an 
ideal  agricultural  and  stock-raising  district.  Fruit-growing  is  the  largest  and  most 
profitable  industry;  the  principal  fruits  grown  are  prunes,  apples,  and  pears;  cante- 
loupes  produced  here  have  made  a  wide  and  favorable  reputation,  large  quantities 
of  them  are  grown  and  shipped.  Stock-raising  is  next  in  importance,  many  sheep 
and  cattle  being  owned,  ranged,  and  fed  in  this  vicinity.  A  sawmill  on  the  banks  of 
the  Payette  River  manufactures  lumber  from  logs  of  fir  and  yellow  pine,  which  are 
cut  from  large  forests  at  the  headwaters  and  floated  down  this  stream. 

Weiser,  Idaho.  Population,  1,670.  Two  banks,  wholesale  and  retail 
mercantile  houses  and  other  business  houses  up  to  the  standard.  The  town  is 
substantially  built  of  brick,  with  modern  residences,  handsome  lawns  and  shade 
trees.  The  school  facilities  are  of  the  best.  Weiser  College  and  Academy,  and 
Idaho  Industrial  Institute.  Weiser  is  the  commercial  and  banking  center  for  a 
rich  country  extending  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  north.  It  is  adjacent  to  exten- 
sive ranges,  and  is  immediately  surrounded  by  the  finest  agricultural  and  fruit  land 
in  the  west.  It  is  the  gateway  to  the  Seven  Devils  copper  mines,  and  includes  in  its 
resources  the  mining  of  all  precious  metals,  timbering,  stock-raising,  husbandry, 
and  fruit-growing.  Ships  two  million  pounds  of  wool  each  year,  with  corresponding 
output  of  mutton  and  other  livestock.  It  has  the  largest  fruit  evaporator  and 
flour  mill  in  the  state. 

Huntington,  Oregon.  Population,  850.  Junction  of  Oregon  Railroad 
&  Navigation  Company  and  Oregon  Short  Line  systems.  Three  churches,  fine 
school  building,  several  general  merchandise  stores,  livery  barns  and  storage  ware- 
houses. Principal  industries  are  stock-raising,  mining,  and  fruit-growing;  also 
manufacturing  lime  and  plaster  of  first  quality,  in  large  quantities.  Is  also  point  of 
supply  for  large  interior  country,  embracing  Harney  and  Malheur  Counties.  The 
Oregon  Lime  &  Marble  Company,  three  and  a  half  miles  west  of  town,  mnaufacture 
and  ship  large  quantities  of  lime,  plaster,  and  gypsum.  The  Fastern  Oregon  Land 
&  Irrigation  Company,  capitalized  at  five  hundred  thousand  dollars,  has  its  head- 
quarters here.  The  Pomeroy  Dredger  Mining  plant  is  operated  on  a  large  scale 
at  Weatherby  on  Burnt  River,  a  few  miles  west. 

OREGON    RAILWAY   AND    NAVIGATION    COMPANY. 

Leaving  Huntington,  we  are  on  the  lines  of  the  Oregon  Railway  &  Navigation 
Company,  and  the  first  station  we  pass  is 

Durkee,  Oregon.  Population,  200.  Paying  mines  with  stamp  mills 
running,  and  many  small  mines  and  promising  prospects;  two  large  irrigation 
ditches,  watering  ten  thousand  acres  of  rich  farming  lands.  A  favorite  winter 
feeding-place  for  stockmen,  many  of  whom  drive  their  flocks  and  herds  long  dis- 
tances to  winter  here. 

Pleasant  Valley,  Oregon.  Population,  150.  Chief  industries,  mining, 
lumbering,  and  stock-raising. 

Baker  City,  Oregon.     Population,  6,663.     County-seat  of  Baker  County. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  3!5 

Baker  City  is  the  center  and  metropolis  of  the  Eastern  Oregon  gold  fields,  including 
Fourteen  thousand  square  miles  of  gold-ribbed  mountains  and  gold-strewn  gulches 
and  creek  beds.  It  is  situated  three  hundred  and  fifty-five  miles  southeast  of  Port- 
land, at  an  altitude  of  three  thousand  four  hundred  and  forty  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  Its  climate  is  unsurpassable  in  all  healthful  and  invigorating  qualities 
The  whole  region  is  rich  in  agricultural  and  horticultural  possibilities  on  the  surface 
and  mineral  resources  underneath.  There  are  over  five  hundred  tributary  mines 
in  operation,  or  in  process  of  development,  several  of  them  producing  from  five 
hundred  to  one  thousand  five  hundred  dollars  a  day  each.  The  Bonanza  mine, 
which  could  not  be  sold  for  one  thousand  dollars  a  few  years  ago,  turned  out  one 
hundred  and  two  thousand  dollars  in  gold  bricks  in  the  single  month  of  March, 
iooi.  Baker  City  has  ore-sampling  works  and  a  custom  mill,  a  one  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  dollar  gravity  water  system,  gas  and  electric  light  systems;  six  saw 
and  plaining  mills,  with  a  daily  capacity  of  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  thousand 
feet  of  lumber,  or  fifty-five  million  feet  a  year,  one  company  alone  employing  over 
three  hundred  hands;  two  breweries  costing  seventy-five  thousand  dollars;  two 
foundries  and  machine  shops;  a  telephone  system  with  five  hundred  subscribers; 
street  railways;  a  chamber  of  commerce,  churches  of  all  denominations;  a  Masonic 
temple,  and  halls  of  all  the  other  fraternal  orders;  a  thirty-five  thousand  dollar  opera 
house;  three  daily  newspapers;  free  postal  delivery,  and  the  third  post-office  in  the 
state  in  volume  of  business;  a  superb  natatorium,  and  a  sixty  thousand  dollar  hos- 
pital. The  public  schools  of  the  city  won  the  gold  medal  at  the  Omaha  Exposition 
and  the  Sisters  of  St.  Francis  have  an  academy  with  buildings  that  have  cost  fifty 
thousand  dollars.  The  two  banks  of  the  city  carry  one  million  five  hundred  thou- 
sand of  deposits.  More  than  fifty  handsome  business  blocks,  and  scores  of  residences 
have  recently  gone  up,  and  there  are  fifteen  hotels.  Baker  City  is  the  junction-point 
with  the  Sumpter  Valley  Railway,  leading  to  Lockhart,  McEwen,  and  Sumpter, 
thirty-one  miles  distant. 

Union,  Oregon.  County-seat  of  Union  County.  Population  of  town  about 
2,000,  of  county,  17,000.  Has  woolen  mills,  flouring  mills,  sawmills,  planing-mills, 
box  factory,  largest  fruit  evaporator  in  Eastern  Oregon,  creamerv,  state  experi- 
ment station,  electric  lights,  gravity  water  works,  two  schools,  two-story  brick  court- 
house, and  county  jail,  city  hall,  six  churches,  national  bank,  telephones,  suburban 
railroad,  two  daily  stage  lines,  two  newspapers,  hot  mineral  springs,  undeveloped 
water  powers,  projected  railroad  to  timber  and  mines  adjacent,  in  the  midst  of  fertile 
fruit,  sugar-beet  and  agricultural  lands,  in  the  best  watered  section  of  Eastern 
Oregon.     Nearly  all  lines  of  ordinary  business  represented. 

Hot  Lake,  Oregon.  Union  County,  313  miles  east  of  Portland,  on  the 
main  line  of  the  Oregon  Railroad  &•  Navigation  Company.  What  the  famous  Hot 
Springs  of  Arkansas  an-  to  that  state  and  the  East,  Hot  Lake  is  to  Oregon 
and  the  West.  For  untold  ages  the  springs  have  poured  forth  their  volcanic- 
heated  water,  and  the  locality  has  always  been  known  as  the  "Big  Medicine" 
camp  of  the  Indian.  The  flow  of  the  springs  is  about  2,500,000  gallons  a  day, 
or  over  100,000  gallons  an  hour.  The  temperature  of  the  water,  where  it  spouts 
out  of  the  earth,  is  19S  degrees,  and  that  of  the  lake,  which  has  an  area  of  eighty 
acres,  and  which  discharges  through  a  creek  into  Grande  Ronde  River,  from  70 
to  80  degrees  throughout  the  entire  winter. 

The  water,  pleasing  to  the  taste,  has  cured  and  restored  to  health  innumerable 
invalids,  who  had  tried  in  vain  much-advertised  and  noted  resorts.  A  sanatorium, 
costing  $150,000,  provides  luxurious  accommodations  for  invalids  and  tourists. 


316  OYER   THE  RAXGE 

La  Grande,  Oregon.  Population,  2,991;  township,  6,000;  county,  15,000. 
Heart  of  the  celebrated  Grande  Ronde  Valley.  Eight  churches,  four  schools 
two  banks,  three  newspapers.  La  Grande"s  beet-sugar  factory  last  year  produced 
1,800,000  pounds  of  fine  sugar,  and  it  has  a  flourishing  creamery.  The  region 
is  rich  in  all  agricultural  and  horticultural  resources,  and  has  room  for  thousands 
of  industrious  farmers,  beet-growers  and  stock -raisers.  La  Grande  is  the  junction- 
point  for  Elgin. 

Elgin,  Oregon.  Township  population,  2,400.  Four  churches,  two  schools, 
two  hotels,  one  newspaper,  one  flouring  mill,  with  a  capacity  of  seventy  barrels  a 
day;  several  sawmills,  one  planing  mill,  a  fine  brown  stone  quarry.  Soil  fertile, 
producing  heaw  crops  of  grain,  grass,  vegetables,  and  fruits.  Good  pasturage. 
Abundance  of  timber,  pure,  soft  water,  climate  mild  and  healthful.  Elgin  is  the 
main  shipping-point  for  Wallowa  County,  with  its  6,000  population.  It  offers 
many  advantages  to  homeseekers. 

Perry,  Oregon.  Population,  350.  A  school,  a  lumbering  plant,  country 
rugged  and  heavily  timbered. 

Hilgard,  Oregon.  An  important  lumbering  point,  three  adjacent  saw 
mills  having  an  aggregate  capacity  of  64,000  feet  a  day,  the  product  going  to 
all  parts  of  Idaho,  Utah,  Colorado,  and  Wyoming. 

Kailiela,  Oregon.  Population,  220.  Railroad  round-house.  Wood  and 
timber-handling  point. 

Meacham,  Oregon.  Population,  300.  Much  lumber  and  cordwood 
shipped.  Scenery  superb,  climate  cool  and  delightful,  fine  hunting  and  fishing, 
lovely  camping  grounds.  Here  is  the  famous  Log  Cabin  Eating  House,  favorably 
known  by  traveling  people  all  over  the  country. 

Bingham  Springs,  Oregon.  In  the  very  heart  of  the  pretty  Blue 
Mountains,  and  reached  after  a  most  enjoyable  six-mile  drive  over  a  tree-shaded 
road  from  Bingham  Station,  252  miles  east  of  Portland,  on  the  main  line  of  the 
Oregon  Railroad  &  Navigation  Company,  are  Bingham  Springs,  having  an  eleva- 
tion of  2,200  feet,  and  surrounded  by  peaks  from  3,500  to  7,000  feet  high. 

Bursting,  at  varying  heights,  from  the  face  of  an  almost  perpendicular  preci- 
pice of  rock,  the  springs — several  in  number — have  an  aggregate  flow  of  about 
120,000  gallons  a  day,  discharging  into  the  Umatilla  River.  All  of  the  springs 
contain  sulphur,  and  have  a  uniform  temperature  of  about  100  degrees,  but  vary 
greatly  in  composition,  several  being  as  highly  charged  with  gas  as  champagne, 
and  one  is  sharply  acid.  The  waters  have  proven  beneficial  in  many  forms  of 
nervous  disorders,  stomach  and  liver  trouble,  and  the  milder  types  of  gout,  rheu- 
matism, and  kidney  disease. 

The  accommodations  are  good,  and  there  is  a  resident  physician  in  attendance. 
Good  saddle  horses  are  always  to  be  had,  and  the  roads  lead  to  some  most  inviting 
mountain  places,  where  trout  and  salmon  fishing  is  splendid,  and  game  easily  found. 

Pendleton,  Oregon.  County  seat  of  Umatilla  County,  which,  with 
scarcely  15,000  population,  produces  1  per  cent  of  all  the  wheat  raised  in  the  United 
States.  Its  crop  in  1900  was  5,000,000  bushels,  worth,  at  that  time,  83,750,000  in 
gold,  or  $250.00  for  every  man,  woman,  and  child  in  its  borders.  The  assessed 
valuation  of  the  county  is  $7,355,662 — nearly  S500.00  for  every  inhabitant,  old  and 
young.  It  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  famous  wheat  belt,  where  from  40  to  60  bushels 
to  the  acre  is  not  an  uncommon  yield,  and  So  bushels  to  the  acre  have  been  pro- 
duced. Pendleton  is  231  miles  east  of  Portland.  It  has  6,000  population,  an 
increase  of  1,094  since  the  census  of  1900.    It  has  broad,  well  paved  streets,  a  sple.idid 


3'^  OVER    THE  RANGE 

electric  light  system,  water  works  that  cost  $75,000,  two  flouring  mills  with  a  daily 
capacity  of  1,500  barrels,  and  wool  scouring  mills  with  a  capacity  of  50,000  pounds 
a  day.  The  town  handles  from  3,000,000  to  6,000,000  pounds  of  wool  a  year, 
and  one  of  its  woolen  mills  manufactures  the  famous  "Pendleton  Indian  Robe" 
which  is  almost  fire  and  water  proof.  It  has  churches  of  all  denominations,  three 
public  schools  and  two  academies,  a  live  daily  newspaper,  a  weekly  and  semi- 
weekly,  and  a  monthly  devoted  to  live  stock  interests,  and  many  handsome  public 
and  private  buildings.  Three  dairies  and  creameries  cannot  supply  the  demand 
for  their  products.  The  two  banks  carry  deposits  running  from  $1,200,000  to 
$1,  500,000.  Pendleton  is  the  junction-point  with  the  line  leading  north  to  Grange 
City,  where  it  makes  another  connection  with  the  line  from  Umatilla  to  Spokane. 
On  this  branch  line  we  pass  Saxe,  Havana,  Eastland,  Adams,  and 

AtllClia,  Oregon.  Population  of  township,  1,250.  An  important  wheat 
shipping-point.  Surrounding  country  rich  in  agricultural  capabilities.  Fine  trout 
fishing  in  all  the  streams.  Climate  delightful.  Then  come,  in  the  order  named, 
Weston,  Downing,  Blue  Mountain,  Bates,  Melton,  Spofford,  and  then  we  reach 

Walla  Walla,  Washington.  County  seat  of  Walla  Walla  County, 
one  of  the  garden  spots  of  the  Pacific  Northwest.  The  town  is  situated  21S  miles 
east  of  Portland  and  204  miles  southeast  of  Spokane.  It  has  a  population  yl 
10,048,  thirteen  churches,  four  public  schools,  six  collegiate  institutions,  including 
two  Catholic,  one  Episcopalian,  one  Adventist,  one  business  college  and  Whitman 
college,  two  extensive  manufactories  of  threshing  machines  and  agricultural  imple- 
ments, and  ice,  broom,  saddle-tree,  and  sash  and  door  factories,  a  distillery,  two 
breweries,  four  newspapers  and  three  banks,  carrying  deposits  running  from  $2,500,- 
000  to  $3,500,000.  Walla  Walla  has  a  five-troop  United  States  cavalry  post,  and 
the  Washington  State  penitentiary  is  located  here.  It  has  three  hotels  and  numer- 
ous restaurants  and  lodging  houses.  It  is  also  an  important  railway  center,  the 
O.  R.  &  N.  Co.'s  branches  to  Wallula,  Dixie,  and  Dudley  having  their  termini 
here.  Continuing  northward,  we  pass  in  quick  succession  Valley  Grove,  Hadlcy, 
and  Prescott,  then  comes 

Bolles,  Washington.  In  the  rich  Walla  Walla  Valley.  Population,  50. 
Grain  shipping-point.  Lands  productive  and  high  priced.  The  junction  with  the 
branch  to 

Waitshurg,  Washington.  Population,  1,000.  Four  churches,  a  pub- 
lic school  and  a  denominational  academy,  planing  mill  and  chop  mill,  a  combined 
harvester  manufactory,  a  bank,  a  flouring  mill  with  a  capacity  of  350  barrels  a  day. 
Surrounding  region  rich  in  soil.     And  to 

Dayton,  Washington.  Population,  3,000.  Eleven  churches,  four 
schools,  a  brewery  and  malt  house,  two  flouring  mills.  Surrounded  by  rich  grain- 
growing  lands,  where  there  never  was  a  crop  failure.  Good  timber,  convenient 
and  fine  trout  streams.  Again  we  take  the  main  line  and  continue  our  northward 
journey.     Menoken  and  Alto  are  passed,  and  we  arrive  at 

Startmck,  Washington.  Population,  371.  About  6,000  acres  of  rich 
wheat  lands  tributary.  Some  government  lands  yet  open,  chiefly  suited  for  grazing. 
The  junction  points  with  the  branch  for  Delaney,  Chard,  Zumwalt,  and 

Pomeroy,  Washington.  Township  population,  1,200.  Six  churches, 
a  grammar  school  of  eight  grades,  and  a  high  school,  one  bank,  two  newspapers, 
a  flouring  mill,  a  feed  mill,  and  a  planing  mill.  In  the  heart  of  one  of  the  richest 
grain,  fruit,  and  vegetable  growing  regions  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  Land  from  $5.00 
to    $25.00  an    acre.     Two  hotels  at   $1.00   a   dav  and  ud.     The  next  station    is 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  319 

Grange  City,  which  will  be  described  in  plait-  cm  the  line  Id  Spokane,  and  we 
retrace  our  steps  to  Pendleton,  take  up  again  the  main  line,  and  after  passing 
Barnhart,  Yorkum,  and  Nolin,  we  reach 

Echo,  Oregon.  Population,  tributary,  800.  Good  school,  two  churches, 
flouring  mill  with  a  capacity  of  150  barrels  a  day.  Three  irrigation  ditches  leave 
the  Umatilla  River  near  Echo,  and  water  a  large  body  of  rich  lands.  All 
kinds  of  grain,  grasses,  and  vegetables  flourish.  Good  opportunities  for 
homeseekers. 

Umatilla,  Oregon.  Population,  250.  Junction  of  Spokane  and  Hunt- 
ington lines  of  the  Oregon  Railroad  &  Navigation  Company.  District  school, 
Umatilla  and  Stokes  irrigation  ditch,  seven  miles  long;  soil,  under  irrigation,  good 
for  grass  and  fruit,  especially  melons. 

Here  we  decide  to  make  a  side  trip,  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  to  Spokane  and 
its  interesting  environments.  Following  the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Columbia, 
we  pass  Cold  Springs  and  Juniper  and  arrive  at 

Wallula,  Washington.  A  town  of  500  inhabitants,  and  principally 
important  as  a  railway  junction-point,  for  here  converge  the  several  branches  of 
the  O.  R.  &  N.  Co.  and  the  Washington  &  Columbia  River  railroad. 

Leaving  Wallula,  we  are  taken  along  the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Snake  River,  and 
pass  rapidly  the  small  stations  of  Humorist,  Snake  River,  Page,  Simmons,  Walkers, 
Scott,  Moore,  and  Aver,  and  reach  Grange  City,  where  the  line  from  Pendleton  has 
its  connection.  Crossing  the  Snake  River  we  are  landed  at  Riparia,  where  we  may 
leave  the  train  and  take  the  O.  R.  &  N.  Co.'s  steamers,  "Spokane"  or  "Lewiston," 
for  the  trip  up  the  Snake  River  to 

Lewiston,  Idaho.  Population,  3,000.  County  seat  of  Nez  Perce  Countv, 
beautifully  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Snake  and  Clearwater  Rivers,  and  sur- 
rounded by  one  of  the  richest  farming,  fruit-growing,  stock-raising  and  mining  re- 
gions in  the  Pacific  Northwest.  The  town  has  fine  waterworks,  electric  light  and 
sewerage  systems;  five  churches,  the  State  Normal  School,  private  academies  for 
boys  and  girls,  and  good  public  schools;  three  banks,  a  number  of  the  largest  mercan- 
tile houses  in  the  state,  two  flouring  mills,  two  sawmills,  a  foundry,  and  a  sash  and 
door  factory.  The  United  States  land  office  is  here,  and  a  splendid  steel 
bridge  unites  Lewiston  with  Clarkston,  on  the  opposite  side  of  Snake  River, 
thus  virtually  combining  the  names  of  the  two  famous  explorers  in  a  dual  city. 
The  Clarkston  Irrigation  Company  has  invested  $1,000,000  in  canals,  ditches, 
and  other  improvements.  The  city  is  the  supply  and  distribution  point  for  all 
the  great  mining  regions  about  Buffalo  Hump,  Elk  City,  and  Florence,  and  has  daily 
lines  of  stages  to  all  important  camps.  Returning  to  Riparia  we  again  resume  the 
rail  journey. 

La  Cl'OSSe,  Washington.  Population,  nominal;  is  the  junction  with 
the  branch  to  Pampa,  Hooper,  Washtucna,  Kahlotus,  Sulpher,  and  Connell. 

Colfax,  Washington.  Population,  3,500.  County  scat  of  Whitman 
County,  which  has  produced  $4,500,000  worth  of  wheat  in  a  single  year's  crop,  or 
$180.00  for  every  man,  woman,  and  child  in  its  borders,  besides  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands more  in  other  grains,  fruit,  vegetables,  live  stock,  wool,  and  dairy  stuff.  The  soil 
is  unsurpassed  on  earth  in  fertility.  Near  Colfax  has  been  raised  83  bushels  of  wheat 
to  the  acre,  and  five  miles  north  of  the  town  there  have  been  harvested  706  bushels 
from  ten  acres.  Crops  of  90  bushels  of  barley  and  1 25  bushels  of  oats  to  the  acre  are 
not  uncommon.  Three  public  schools  and  one  private  school,  a  college,  eight 
churches,  a  hospital,  two  newspapers,  three  banks,  two  of  them  national,  that  have 


320  OVER    THE  RANGE 

for  several  years  past  paid  annual  profits  of  35  per  cent.;  a  sawmill,  a  flouring  mill, 
iron  works,  roller  feed-mill  factory,  elevators,  warehouses,  and  all  ordinary  business 
houses,  electric  lights,  waterworks  and  grain  elevator  factory.  An  important  grain 
and  fruit  shipping-point.  Whole  region  fertile,  growing  and  prosperous,  and  new 
settlers  coming  in  every  day. 

Pullman,  Washington.  Population  of 'township,  2,000.  Seat  of  State 
Agricultural  College  and  Experimental  Station,  good  public  schools,  two  banks,  two 
newspapers,  churches  of  various  denominations.  Surrounding  country  rich  in  soil, 
and  yielding  heavy  crops  of  wheat,  oats  and  barley,  vegetables  and  fruits. 

MOSCOW,  Idaho.  County  seat  of  Latah  County.  Population,  5,000.  Seat 
of  State  University  of  Idaho.  Has  waterworks,  electric  light,  telephone,  and  sewer- 
age systems;  a  high  school  and  three  public  schools,  nine  churches,  three  banks,  four 
newspapers,  eight  grain  warehouses,  one  flouring  mill,  two  feed  mills,  three  saw- 
mills, one  brick  factory.  Placer  and  quartz  mines  near.  Surrounding  region  rich 
in  soil,  producing  all  varieties  of  grains,  grasses,  fruits. 

Oake.sdale,  Washington.  Population  immediately  tributary,  6,000. 
Six  churches,  fine  public  school  with  handsome  brick  building  of  eight  rooms,  a 
flouring  mill  with  capacity  of  100  barrels  a  day,  one  newspaper,  machine  shops, 
and  lumber  yard.  Country  rich  in  resources  for  farming,  fruit-growing  and  stock- 
raising. 

Garfield,  Washillg'ton.  Population,  1,000.  Four  churches,  a  school 
with  eight  departments,  a  bank,  a  live  weekly  paper.  Supply  point  for  the  Cceur 
d'Alene  mines  that  lie  east  of  it.  Surrounded  by  one  of  the  richest  agricultural 
regions  in  the  country. 

Tekoa,  Washington.  Junction  of  Oregon  Railroad  &  Navigation  Co. 
Spokane  line  and  Cceur  d'Alene  branch.  Three  churches,  two  schools,  an  opera 
house,  and  lodges  of  all  the  fraternal  orders,  a  flouring  mill,  creamery,  fruit  drier, 
sash  and  door  and  box  factories  under  construction.  Rich  agricultural  region  and 
mineral  belt  near.     On  the  Cceur  d'Alene  branch  are 

Harrison,  Idaho.  Population,  1,100.  Five  churches,  a  good  school,  one 
newspaper,  six  sawmills,  shipping  300  carloads  of  lumber  a  month;  several  promis- 
ing mines  being  developed.  The  town  is  situated  on  Cceur  d'Alene  Lake  at  the 
mouth  of  St.  Joseph  River,  in  a  picturesque  region  with  a  delightful  climate,  and  is 
becoming  a  popular  summer  resort.  Soil  of  the  St.  Joe  Valley  wonderfully  pro- 
ductive. 

Wardlier,  Idaho.  Population  of  township,  3,200.  Three  mines  in  opera- 
tion, and  promising  prospects  in  every  direction;  three  concentrators,  four  churches, 
two  schools,  one  newspaper,  one  bank,  one  hospital,  and  business  houses  in  all 
usual  lines,  and  a  free  reading-room.  Man}-  excellent  opportunities  for  mining 
men,  either  as  prospectors  or  investors.  Fine  fishing  and  hunting,  deer,  bear, 
grouse,  and  trout.     Delightful  summer  climate. 

Wallace,  Idaho.  Population,  2,500.  In  the  heart  of  the  famous  Cceur 
d'Alene  mining  region,  which,  since  its  discovery  in  1884,  has  produced  nearly 
$80,000,000  in  gold,  silver  and  lead,  and  which  shipped  34,851  tons  of  ore  during  the 
single  month  of  October,  1900.  Ten  mines  in  operation,  extensive  sampling  works, 
four  churches,  two  banks,  three  newspapers,  two  hospitals,  a  high  school,  a 
foundry,  two  breweries,  a  planing  mill,  wholesale  grocery  and  hardware  houses. 
From  Wallace  extend  branches  to  the  mining  regions  of  Burke  and  Mullan.  On 
the  main  stem  again,  we  encounter 

Latah,  Washington.     Population  of  township,  1,200.     Three  churches, 


322  OVER    THE  RANGE 

one  school,  a  bank  and  a  weekly  paper.  Situated  in  a  great  grain  and  cattle-raising 
region,  where  dairying  is  profitable. 

Fairfield,  Washington.  Population  of  township,  769.  Five  large  grain 
warehouses,  planing  mill,  two  churches,  a  good  school.  Surrounding  region  as  rich 
as  a  garden,  yielding  unfailing  crops  of  grain,  sugar-beets  and  all  ordinary  fruits 
and  vegetables.  Pure,  soft  water  found  everywhere  at  a  depth  of  15  to  25  feet. 
From  Fairfield  a  short  branch  extends  to 

Waverly,  Washington.  Population,  600.  A  beet-sugar  factory  that 
used  6,000  tons  of  beets  last  year,  three  stores,  two  churches,  a  good  public  school 
and  two  large  warehouses. 

Rockfbrd,  Washington.  Population  of  township,  2,000.  A  flouring 
mill,  with  capacity  of  300  barrels  a  day,  three  sawmills,  a  brick  and  tile  plant,  five 
general  merchandise  stores,  one  bank,  a  weekly  newspaper,  three  churches,  good 
public  schools.  Fine  timber  land  to  the  north,  and  rich  prairie  south.  Abun- 
dance of  pure,  soft  water,  and  good  chances  for  homeseekers. 

Spokane,  Washington.  The  falls  of  the  Spokane  River,  in  the  heart 
of  the  city,  have  374,000  possible  horse-power,  or  more  than  four  times  as  much  as 
St.  Anthony's  Falls  at  Minneapolis.  The  minimum  is  32,000  horse-power,  of  which 
only  about  7,000  is  utilized.  The  population  in  1880  was  300;  in  1890  it  was 
19,222,  an  increase  of  6,200  per  cent  in  ten  years.  It  is  now  37,047,  an  increase  of 
245  per  cent  since  the  census  of  1890.  In  1880  the  total  assessed  valuation  was 
$1,800,  in  1900  it  was  $19,636,621,  an  increase  of  1,090,900  per  cent.  Nine  rail- 
roads center  in  the  city,  four  trans-continental  and  five  local,  and  twenty-two  pas- 
senger trains  arrive  and  depart  daily.  The  city  owns  its  waterworks  systems,  which 
cost  $1,000,000,  and  pays  a  yearly  cash  revenue  of  $115,000.  It  has  seventy-five 
miles  of  graded  streets,  thirty-five  miles  of  electric  railway,  excellent  electric  light, 
gas,  and  sewrerage  systems;  two  daily  and  eight  weekly  newspapers,  besides  a  number 
of  monthlies,  and  five  banks,  with  a  capitalization  of  $1,500,000  and  deposits 
amounting  to  $5,550,000.  Its  bank  clearings  have  increased  300  per  cent  in  five 
years,  aggregating  now  $65,000,000  a  year.  It  has  sixty-one  churches,  eighteen 
public  schools,  including  a  high  school,  with  buildings  and  property  valued  at 
$700,000;  three  business  colleges  and  a  number  of  private  and  denominational 
institutions,  while  but  a  short  distance  away  are  the  State  Normal  School  at  Cheney, 
and  the  State  Agricultural  College  and  Experimental  Station  at  Pullman.  New 
buildings,  costing  $1,500,000,  are  now  in  process  of  construction,  and  ten  and  one- 
half  miles  of  new  pavements  were  laid  last  year.  The  city  has  four  flouring  mills, 
with  a  capacity  of  3,000  barrels  a  day,  and  has,  in  a  single  season,  shipped  537,000 
barrels  of  flour  to  China  and  Japan.  It  has  over  200  manufacturing  establish- 
ments, including  flour,  lumber,  shingle,  and  planing  mills;  foundries,  iron  works, 
machine  and  car  shops;  furniture  and  sash  and  door  factories,  breweries,  bakeries, 
tanneries,  woolen  mills,  and  a  beet-sugar  factory  near  at  hand;  cigar,  cracker,  pickle, 
soap,  broom,  and  tent  and  awning  factories;  potteries,  tile  and  terra-cotta  works, 
brickyards,  and  stone  and  marble  works;  soda,  mineral-water,  vinegar,  cider, 
and  bottling  works.  Fort  Wright,  in  the  edge  of  the  city,  is  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tifully situated  army  posts  in  the  United  States.  There  are  six  large  modern  hotels. 
Spokane  is  the  debarking  points  for  the  famous  Kootenai  mining  region  of  British 
Columbia. 

Returning,  without  delay,  to  Umatilla,  we  again  resume  the  journey  toward 
Portland.  From  Umatilla  to  Portland  the  line  of  the  railway  clings  closely  to  the 
banks  of  the  beautiful  Columbia  River. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN   GATE.  323 


MIGHTY 
COLUMBIA. 

Peerless  in  Beauty. 


Historic  in  interest  and  peerless  in  the  pictur- 
esque beauty  of  its  surroundings,  the  mighty  Co- 
lumbia River,  with  a  How  at  times  of  over  1,600,000 
cubic  fed  of  water  every  second — greater  than  the 
Mississippi  or  St.  Lawrence  ever  attains — fed  by 
the  everlasting  snow  fields  and  glaciers,  gracefully 
winds  its  way  through  the  Pacific  Northwest,  grow- 
ing in  size  until,  at  a  point  fifteen  miles  above  it-. 
mouth,  it  reaches  tin-  remarkable  width  of  seventeen  miles. 

For  two  hundred  miles  or  more  it  forms  the  boundary  line  between  Oregon  and 
Washington,  and  for  the  greater  part  of  this  distance  the  scenery  is  unsurpass- 
able. He  who  travels  along  or  sails  upon  this  matchless  river  for  the  first  time 
is  overwhelmed.  From  the  Pacific  Ocean  to  Portland,  one  hundred  and  ten  miles, 
the  Columbia  and  Willamette  are  navigable  to  the  large  ocean-going  vessels,  while 
from  Portland  to  the  Dalles,  nearly  one  hundred  miles,  lines  of  steamers  ply,  pass- 
ing through  the  Cascade  Locks,  where  the  United  States  government  has  recently 
expended  over  $3,000,000  in  order  to  overcome  the  rapids  at  that  point. 

There  is  much  of  interest  in  the  story  of  the  discovery  of  the  Columbia  river, 
and  in  the  history  of  its  exploration  during  the  half-century  or  more  following.  To 
Captain  Robert  Gray,  in  the  American  ship,  Columbia,  of  Boston,  belongs  the 
honor  of  first  sailing  the  river  which  bears  the  name  of  his  vessel.  The  Columbia 
and  its  sister  ship,  the  Washington,  were  sent  out  from  Boston  in  1787,  on  a  fur- 
trading  expedition  to  the  North  Pacific  Coast.  In  May,  1792,  when  opposite  the 
point  now  known  as  Fort  Stevens,  noticing  that  an  immense  body  of  water  poured 
from  the  land  into  the  ocean,  Captain  Gray  determined  to  investigate,  resulting 
in  the  discovery  of  the  great  stream.  Captain  Cook,  on  his  exploring  expedition 
of  1778,  failed  to  notice  the  entrance,  and  the  ships  of  Vancouver,  which  had 
passed  up  the  coast  a  few  weeks  previously,  learned  first  of  the  great  river  from 
Captain  Gray,  whose  vessel  they  fell  in  with  at  sea.  Soon  afterwards  explorers 
sailed  up  the  river  for  a  considerable  distance,  and  penetrated  far  into  the  interior. 

Heppner  Junction,  Oregon.  Population,  50,  152  miles  east  of  Port- 
land. Junction  of  Heppner  branch  with  main  line  of  Oregon  Railroad  &  Navigation 
Company.  Shipping-point  for  live  stock,  wool,  and  grain.  Seven  miles  of 
irrigation  ditches  in  vicinity.  Soil  fertile  in  grass,  grain,  and  fruit.  Good  winter 
grazing. 

Heppner,  Oregon.  Population,  1,146.  County  seat  of  Morrow  County. 
Both  town  and  county  arc  new,  both  growing  daily.  It  has  five  churches,  a  public 
school  employing  eight  teachers,  two  live  newspapers,  splendid  (Waterworks  and 
electric  light  system,  a  national  bank  earning  $500,000  of  deposits,  four 
wholesale  and  retail  general  merchandise  houses,  a  planing  mill,  two  large  grain 
and  wool  warehouses,  a  cold-storage  plant.  It  has  a  flouring  mill  that  runs  day 
and  night,  and  turns  out  seventy  barrels  of  high-grade  flour  a  day.  The  Heppner 
Mining  Company  is  developing  the  Mayflower  group  of  mines  in  the  Susanville 
district,  with  fine  gold  prospects.  The  surrounding  country,  though  as  yet  thinly 
settled,  is  rich  in  all  agricultural  and  pastoral  resources.  With  a  total  population 
of  but  4,151,  the  county  last  year  produced  1,000,000  bushels  of  wheat,  worth  $450,- 
000.  Heppner  handles  3,000,000  pounds  of  wool  a  year,  and  is  the  trading-point 
for  large  sections  of  Morrow,  Grant,  Crook,  Wheeler,  Gilliam,  and  Malheur  coun- 
ties.    Again  on  the  main  line,  we  come  to 

Arlington,  Oregon.    Population,  488.    Two  churches,  one  graded  school, 


324  OVER   THE  RANGE 

one  national  bank,  one  weekly  newspaper,  two  hotels,  an  extensive  cold-storage 
plant.     Ships  much  wheat,  wool  and  live  stock.     Rich  soil. 

Biggs,  Oregon.  Junction  of  Columbia  Southern  Railway  with  Oregon 
Railroad  &  Navigation  Company.  Important  grain  shipping-point.  Sherman 
County,  in  which  it  is  situated,  with  but  900  voters,  produced  3,000,000  bushels 
of  wheat  in  1900,  worth,  at  fifty  cents  a  bushel,  $1,500,000. 

At  Dalles  we  enter  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  lower  Columbia. 
Mosier,   Oregon.     Population,  300.     Surrounded  by  rich  farming  region; 
soil  adapted  to  every  variety  of  grain,  grass,  fruit,  and  vegetable.     Fine   fishing 
in  neighboring  streams. 

Hood  River,  Oregon.  Population,  700.  Three  churches,  one  school. 
Center  of  one  of  the  greatest  fruit-growing  regions  in  the  world.  Hood  River  took 
sixteen  medals  on  fruit  at  the  Chicago  Exposition,  including  seven  on  apples.  It 
ships  from  75  to  125  carloads  of  strawberries  each  season.  Cherries  have  paid 
as  much  as  $1,950  an  acre,  clear  profit  for  a  single  crop;  strawberries,  $900,  and 
apples,  $25.90  from  a  single  tree.  Hood  River  apples  are  sold  all  over  the  United 
States.  Numerous  extensive  fruit-shipping  companies  and  a  lumbering  plant, 
and  business  houses  of  all  kinds.  Many  inducements  to  farmers  and  fruit-raisers. 
Centered  in  delightful  and  charming  surroundings,  sixty-six  miles  east  of  Port- 
land, on  the  line  of  the  Oregon  Railroad  &  Navigation  Company,  nestles  the  pros- 
perous and  enterprising  little  town  of  Hood  River,  the  mart  of  the  famous  fruit 
valley  of  the  same  name.  The  climate  is  ideal  the  year  round,  the  rigors  of  winter 
and  the  extremes  of  summer  being  unknown. 

For  scenic  charms  few  spots  equal  it,  and  it  is  rapidly  coming  to  the  front  as 
the  popular  summer  resort  of  the  Upper  Columbia  River,  offering  the  happy  com- 
bination of  rest  and  quiet  life  with  pure  and  exhilirating  mountain  air.  In  the 
foreground  is  the  majestic  Columbia;  across  the  river,  in  Washington,  towering 
high  above  the  other  nearby  peaks  is  snow-crowned  Mount  Adams,  12,470  feet 
high;  in  the  opposite  direction — to  the  south  twenty-seven  miles — is  Mount  Hood, 
perpetually  covered  with  snow,  rearing  its  head  heavenward  11,225  feet>  and  form- 
ing a  picturesque  background  to  the  valley;  and  on  the  east  and  west  are  the  forest- 
covered  foot-hills  of  the  Cascades. 

Nowhere  else  in  the  entire  world  is  there  a  simi- 
lar-sized section  where  Nature  has  provided  such 
an  abundance  of  unparalleled  mountain  scenery  as 
in  the  Pacific  Northwest.  Three  general  ranges, 
linked  by  numerous  cross-spurs,  traverse  it  in  a 
north  and  south  direction — the  Coast  ten  to  twenty 
miles  from  the  ocean,  having  an  extreme  altitude  of 
of  4,000  feet;  the  Cascades,  one  hundred  to  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  inward,  ranging  in  height  from  6,000  to  12,000  feet,  and  the 
Blue  Mountains,  in  Eastern  Oregon  and  Washington,  from  3,000  to  10,000  feet. 

But  the  trip  of  all  mountain  trips  in  this  matchless  scenic  wonderland  of  the 
Pacific  Northwest,  is  to  the  snow-capped  summit  of  one  of  the  mighty  and  silent 
sentinels  which  tower  high  above  the  lesser  peaks.  Mount  Adams,  Mount  Saint 
Helen,  Mount  Jefferson,  and  Mount  Rainier,  perpetually  crowned  with  snow, 
stand  forth  in  wondrous  fascination.  But  more  beautiful  and  impressive  than 
all  combined  is  Mount  Hood,  the  pride  of  the  mountain  climbers  and  tourists. 
Fifty  miles  east  of  Portland  by  air-line  and  ninety-three  by  shortest  route,  this  favor- 
ite proudly  rears  its  head  11,225  ^eet  heavenward,  thousands  of  feet  above  every 


MOUNT   HOOD. 

Cloud  Cap  Inn. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  325 

neighboring  object.  It  is  one  of  the  most  notable  peaks  in  the  West,  serving  as 
a  guide-post  to  Lewis  and  Clark  on  their  memorable  trip  of  exploration  to  the 
coast  in  1805-6,  and  later  to  the  pioneers  who  passed  over  the  latent  gold  ledges 
of  the  rich  Sumpter  district,  glanced  at  the  beautiful  valleys,  climbed  the  mountains 
through  forests  of  pine  and  fir,  slept  on  the  bunch-grass  plains — Oregon's  future 
grain  fields — and  with  one  eye  on  Mount  Hood,  hastened  on  to  Western  Oregon. 

Easily  accessible,  hundreds  climb  to  its  summit  every  summer.  The  trip  is 
delightful  in  every  particular,  those  who  have  once  experienced  it  always  being 
eager  to  repeat  the  pleasure. 

From  Mount  Hood  Station  conveyance  is  taken  for  a  coaching  trip  to  Cloud 
Cap  Inn,  which  stands  on  the  northeastern  slope  of  the  mountain,  at  an  elevation  of 
6,800  feet.  Up  through  the  pretty  and  prosperous  town  the  coach  starts  on  its 
twenty-seven  mile  spin,  the  road  leading  past  scores  of  well-kept  apple  and  straw- 
berry farms,  for  which  the  valley  is  noted,  the  unique  and  picturesque  cabin,  sur- 
rounded by  smaller  ones,  being  reached  in  time  for  supper.  Comfortably  furn- 
ished, with  pine  logs  blazing  in  the  huge  fireplaces,  and  with  a  table  supplied  with 
everything  that  a  hungry  visitor  could  wish,  the  place  is  most  inviting. 

From  Cloud  Cap  Inn  the  summit  of  Mount  Hood  seems  but  a  step  away,  but 
in  fact  the  distance  to  its  top  is  four  miles.  A  three  minutes  walk  from  the  Inn 
brings  the  mountain  climber  to  Eliot  Glacier,  on  the  northeast  slope  of  the  moun- 
tain, a  mile  long  by  a  third  of  a  mile  wide.  From  its  base  the  stream  of  Hood  River 
has  its  source.  Coe  Glacier  lies  on  the  north  slope  of  the  mountain,  Sandy  Glacier 
on  the  southwest,  Zigzag  Glacier,  west  of  south,  White  River  Glacier,  east  of  south, 
Newton  Clark  Glacier,  southeast,  and  one  vast  unnamed  icefield  southwest  of 
the  Ladd  Glacier. 

For  three  miles,  from  the  Inn  to  the  top  of  Cooper's  Spur,  the  way  leads  over 
ground  devoid  of  snow,  then  for  a  mile  snow  and  ice  are  encountered.  The  rope 
line  begins  about  900  feet  from  the  summit,  and  for  a  fourth  of  this  distance  alpen- 
stock and  pluck  are  also  needed,  but  the  top  once  reached,  the  plucky  climber  is 
well  repaid  for  the  effort.  To  the  north,  sixty  miles,  is  Mount  Adams,  12,470  feet 
high;  on  Puget  Sound,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  away,  is  Mount  Rainier,  14,440 
feet;  and  to  the  west  is  Mount  Saint  Helen,  9,750  feet.  For  miles  and  miles  the 
mighty  Columbia  is  seen  winding  its  way  through  the  great  section,  while  in 
every  direction,  as  far  as  eye  can  see,  stretch  bounteous  fields  of  grain  and  fertile 
valleys. 

Those  who  do  not  care  to  scale  the  summit  of  the  mountain  have  ample  oppor- 
tunity to  hunt  and  fish,  the  forests  in  the  vicinity  of  Cloud  Cap  Inn  abounding  with 
deer,  bear,  cougars,  grouse,  quail,  and  other  game,  while  the  streams  are  tilled  with 
speckled  beauties. 

VientO,  Oregon.  An  important  lumber  manufacturing  point,  surrounded 
by  fine  timber.  Good  fishing  and  hunting.  United  States  fish  hatchery  just  across 
the  Columbia  River  opposite  the  station. 

Cascade  Locks,  Oregon.  Where  the  United  States  Government  has 
expended  over  four  million  dollars  in  constructing  a  canal  around  the  falls  of  the 
Columbia  River.  Forty-five  miles  east  of  Portland.  Population,  375.  Two  churches, 
a  public  school,  a  sawmill,  fish  wheels  and  extensive  salmon  fisheries.  Amid  the 
grand  scenery  of  the  Cascade  Mountains  and  Columbia  River  Gorge.  Fine  trout 
stream.     Charming  summer  resort. 

Bonneville,  Oregon.  Forty-one  miles  east  of  Portland.  Beautiful  pic- 
nic and  camping  grounds,  splendid  scenery,  streams  alive  with  trout.     A  day  spent 


326  OVER   THE  RANGE 

here  at  the  foot  of  the  Cascades,  with  rich  trout  streams  on  every  hand,  is  rest 
that  is  refreshing. 

MultoilOlliall  Falls,  Oreg'Oll.  Multonomah,  the  grandest  of  all 
Columbia's  falls,  at  the  very  foot  of  which  the  train  makes  a  four-minute  stop 
that  passengers  may  leave  the  cars  and,  from  a  specially  constructed  platform, 
behold  the  beautiful  spectacle  as  it  tumbles  over  the  top  of  a  precipice  eight  hun- 
dred and  forty  feet  high. 

Gordon  Falls,  Mist  and  Bridal  Veil  follow  in  quick  succession. 

LatOUrelle,  Oregon.  Population,  350.  Two  schools,  extensive  saw- 
mills and  lumbering-plant.  Latourelle  Falls,  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet 
high,  and  one  of  the  most  picturesque  cataracts  in  the  state  Far-famed  Rooster 
Rock  within  one  and  a  half  miles. 

Troiltdale,  Oregon.  Population,  500.  Two  churches,  one  school,  large 
slaughter  and  packing  houses,  one  of  the  largest  establishments  of  the  kind  on 
the  coast.  Surrounded  by  a  rich  fanning  region;  fine  scenery,  gravel  roads  and 
bicycle  paths,  streams  full  of  trout. 

Fairview,  Oregon.  Population,  250.  Two  churches,  one  school,  flour- 
ishing creamery,  and  cheese  factory.     Rich  agricultural  region. 

Then  comes  Portland,  the  metropolis  of  the  northwest  (described  elsewhere  in 
this  volume),  and  we  have  completed  our  journey,  so  far  as  the  railway  is  con- 
cerned, but  we  should  not  overlook  the 


PACIFIC   OCEAN   TRIP:     PORTLAND   TO 
SAN  FRANCISCO. 

And  pleasurable  as  are  all  these  trips  offered  by  the  Oregon  Railroad  &  Navigation 
Company — up  and  down  the  Columbia,  to  the  mountains,  beaches,  and  inland 
resorts — one  yet  remains — by  ocean  steamer  from  Portland  to  San  Francisco — 
that  possesses  delights  and  charms  not  enjoyed  on  the  others.  Staunchly  built  and 
thoroughly  equipped  in  every  particular,  the  steamships  of  the  Oregon  Railroad  & 
Navigation  Company  make  the  trip  in  about  fifty  hours,  and  there  is  rest  and  new 
fife  in  every  one  of  the  seven  hundred  and  sixty-five  miles. 

The  steamship  Columbia,  having  accommodations  for  nearly  two  hundred  first- 
class  passengers,  and  almos  as  many  second-class,  is  a  type  of  the^line  and  the 
pride  of  the  ocean-traveling  public  between  the  two  places.  She  is  safe,  complete, 
and  perfect  in  every  detail,  thousands  of  dollars  having  recently  been  expended  in 
improving,  refitting,  and  furnishing  her.  She  is  two  hundred  and  thirty-four  feet 
long,  forty  feet  wide,  and  twenty-two  feet  deep;  has  the  latest  and  most  improved 
engines,  with  two  thousand  two  hundred  horse-power,  steam-steering  gear,  and 
electric  fights  and  bells.  She  has  spacious  aad  well-furnished  saloons,  and  her 
staterooms,  bathrooms,  and  toilet-rooms  are  models  of  completeness.  The  meals 
are  in  keeping  with  the  splendid  equipment  and  reputation  of  the  steamship.  The 
officers  are  always  obliging  and  courteous,  and  spare  no  pains  in  making  the 
passengers  comfortable  and  the  trip  pleasant.  No  accident  has  ever  occurred  to 
the  Columbia,  or  to  her  sister  ships  of  this  line,  but  as  a  precaution  she  carries  seven 
life-boats,  six  large  life-rafts  and  hundreds  of  life-preservers. 

The  scenery  on  this  trip  includes  the  beauties  of  the  Lower  Columbia  through 
miles  and  miles  of  the  famous  salmon-fishing  waters,  past  Astoria,  and  out  the 
mouth  of  the  great  river,  between  Fort  Canby  and  North  Head  on  the  right,  and 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  327 

Fort  Stevens  and  the  costly  government  jetty  on  the  left.  The  forest-covered 
slopes  of  the  Coast  mountains  form  a  pretty  and  striking  background  to  the  point 
where  water  and  shore  meet.  Speedily  the  steamship  plows  her  way  southward 
through  the  liquid  sapphire,  past  lonely  Tillamook  lighthouse,  dangerous  Rogue 
River  Reef,  Cape  Mendocino,  Humboldt  Bay,  and  Point  Arena,  then  into  California's 
beautiful  and  world-famed  Golden  Gate,  shortly  afterward  pulling  alongside  the 
company's  wharf,  where  the  passengers,  refreshed,  invigorated,  and  captivated  by 
their  ocean  jaunt,  with  reluctance,  leave  the  boat. 


328 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


ALTITUDE   OF   MOUNTAIN    PEAKS   OP  THE   ROCKY 

MOUNTAINS. 

Colorado  and  Utah. 


KAMPART  RANGE. 


Height.              Name.                                          County.  Nearest  Point. 

14,147 Pike's  Peak El  Paso Manitou  Springs. 

FRONT  RANGE. 

From  Lulu  Pass  to  Canon  City  in  the  transverse  valley  of  the  Arkansas.  This  range 
divides  Grand  County  from  Boulder  County,  passes  through  Gilpin  County,  Clear  Creek  County, 
and  Park  County,  and  ends  in  Fremont  County. 

Height.         Name.  County.  Nearest  Point.  Height.  Name.  County.    Nearest  Point. 

14,271.  .Long'sPeak  .  .Boulder. .  .Boulder.  14,336.  .Torrey'sPeak.ClearCreek.Georgetown. 

13,173.  .Audubon Boulder..  .Sunset.  14,411.  .Gray's  Peak.. .Clear  Creek. Georgetown. 

13.520.  .Arapahoe Boulder..  .Sunset.  14,321.  .Evans  Peak..  .Clear  Creek.Georgetown. 

13,283.  .James  Peak. .  .Gilpin Central  City.  14,340.  .Mt.  Rosalie..  .Clear  Creek. Georgetown. 

13,133.  .Perry's  Peak. . Gilpin Central  City.  12,446.  .Bison  Peak. .  .Park Fairplay. 

12,873.  .Mount  Flora.  .Gilpin Central  City. 

MEDICINE  BOW  RANGE. 

Is  due  northern  continuation  of  the  North  Range. 

Height.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

13,832 Haynes  Peak Larimer 

13,167 Clark's  Peak Larimer 

BLUE  RTVER  RANGE. 

Sometimes  called  Eagle  River  Mountains;  runs  parallel  with  the  Park  Range  through 
Summit  County.    It  ends  in  the  western  part  of  Park  County. 

Height.         Name.  County.  Nearest  Point.  Height.  Name.  County.   Nearest  Point. 

13, 398.. Mount  Powell.  Summit.  .Dillon.  13,565.  Mount  Guyot Summit.  Breckenridge. 

12, 382..  Red  Peak Summit.  .Dillon.  13, 800. Mount  Hamilton.  Summit.  Bn>ckenridge. 

12,890.. Miles  Peak.. .  .Summit.  .Dillon.  13,835. Silver  Heel Park  . . . .  Como. 

13,200.  .Whale  Peak. .  .Park Breckenridge. 

PARK  RANGE. 

Begins  in  the  northern  boundary  of  the  State,  marking  the  boundary  lines  of  Routt  and 
Larimer  and  ends  in  the  transverse  range  of  the  Arkansas  Mountains,  passing  through  Eagle, 
Summit,  Lake,  Park,  and  Chaffee  Counties, 

Height.         Name.  County.  Nearest  Point.   Height.  Name.  County.    Nearest  Point. 

12,126. . Mount  Zirkel. Larimer.  14,008.  .Sherman Pat  k Alma. 

14,269.  .Quandary Summit  .Breckenridge.   13,750.. Sheridan  (No.  2). Park Fairplay. 

14,297.  .Lincoln Park Alma.  13,909.  .Horseshoe Park Fairplay. 

13, 796.. Arkansas Park Alma.  13,738.  .Ptarmigan Park Fairplay. 

13,961 .  .Buckskin Park Alma.  13,328.  .Buffalo  Peak Parfi Fairplay. 

14,185..Bross Park Alma.  14,132.  .Goat's  Peak Park Fairplay. 

13,650.. Evans  (No.  2). Park Alma. 

SAGUACHE  RANGE. 

Begins  in  Eagle  County  and  runs  parallel  with  the  Park  Range,  the  Arkansas  River  flowing 
between  them  in  the  southern  region.  It  traverses  Lake  and  Chaffee  counties  and  ends  in  the 
Cochetopa  Hills,  the  central  part  of  the  Continental  Divide. 

Height.         Name.  County.  Nearest  Point.  Height.         Name.  County.      Nearest  Point. 

,,  17fi  (  Mount  of  the  ?  t-orr1„       -rq^  nnfF  14,375.  .Harvard, Chaffee Buena  Vista. 

I4,wt>  j   Hoiy  cross.  ^agie....Keawiir.  14,187.  .Yale Chaffee.  ...Buena  Vista. 

13,073.. Homestake Ragle.... Red  Clif*.  14,199.  .Princeton.... Chaffee.  ...Salida. 

14,424  .Mount  .Massive. Lake Leadville.  14  245.  .Antero Chaffee Salida. 

14,436  .Elbert Lake Leadville.  14,239.  .Shavano Chaffee.  ...Maysville. 

14,302.  .La  Plata  Peak..  Chaffee..  Buena  Vista.  14,055.  .Ouray Chaffee.... Marshall  Pass. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN    GATE.  329 

ELK  MOUNTAINS  OR  ASPEN  GROUP. 

This  range  is  a  great  semi-circle  o^  mountains  In  Pitkin  County,  with  Aspen  In  the  career 
and  with  spurs  running  into  the  adjoining  county  of  Gunnison. 

Height.         Name.  County.  Nearest  Point.  Height.         Name.  County.    Nearest  Point. 

12,823..  Sopris  Peak...  .Pitkin Carbondale.  13,327.  .While  Back..  .Gunnison.  Crested  Butte. 

13,097.  .Capital  Peak. .  .Pitkin Aspen.  13,113.  .Teocalli  Peak. Gunnison. crested  Butte. 

13, 978..  Snow  Mass Pitkin Aspen.  13,956.  .Grizzly Pitkin Aspen. 

14,008.  .Maroon  Peak.. Pitkin Aspen.  13.350.  .Italian  Peak  .  .Gunnison.  Crested  Butte. 

13,885.  .Pyramid  Peak. .  Pitkin Aspen.  13,357. .  White  Rock. .  .Pitkin Aspen. 

14,115.  .Castle  Peak. . .  .Pitkin Aspen. 


WEST  ELK  MOUNTAIVs. 

Height.                Name.                                      County.                                                      Nearest  Point, 
13,102 West  Elk  Peak Gunnison Gunnison. 


SANGRE  DE  CRISTO  RANGE. 

It  unites  at  its  northern  point  with  the  Arkansas  Hills,  which  run  east  and  west,  and  with 
the  Cochetopa  Hills,  which  run  from  the  southwest  to  the  northeast  and  which  form  a  part  of 
the  Continental  Divide. 

N.  B.— There  are  many  unnamed  peaks  above  13,000  feet  in  this  range. 

Height.         Name.  County.  Nearest  Point.  Height.         Name.  County.    Nearest  Point. 

12,446.  .Hunt's  Peak..  .Fremont .  .Poncha.  14,233.  .Crestone Crant Moffat. 

12,863.  .Rito  Alto Custer Villa  Grove.   14,041.  .Humboldt Custer Silver  Cliff. 

13,600..  Silesia  Peak..  .Custer Hot  Springs.  14,483.  .Sierra  Blanca.  .Costilla Alamosa. 

1 3,729 . .  Gibson  Peak .  ..Custer Hot  Springs.  14, 176 ..  Old  Baldy Costilla Blanca. 

13,447. .  Horn  Peak ....  Custer Moffat.  13,615 . .  Grayback Costilla Blanca. 


CULEHA  RANGE. 

Is  a  continuation  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range. 

Height,  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

14,079 Culeha  Peak Las  Animas Trinidad. 

13,61 1 Trinchera Las  Animas Trinidad. 

13,718 Spanish  Peak Las  Animas Trinidad. 


THE  SAN  JUAN  MOUNTAINS. 

This  range  is  the  southern  part  of  the  Continental  Divide.  It  has  many  lateral  ranges, 
like  buttresses,  and  its  general  course  is  from  southeast  to  northwest,  where  it  joins  with  the 
Uncompahgre  Range  and  the  Cochetopa  Hills.  It  is  very  little  known,  and  contains  many  high 
unnamed  mountains.  It  is  spread  over  Saguache,  Hinsdale  (southern  part),  Archuleta,  Rio 
Grande  and  Conejos  counties. 

Height.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point.  Height.         Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

14,032..  Stewart  Peak...  Saguache..  Lake  City,  -io  iK4  MawimhV;  Pnalr    Hinsrt.le    (Wagon 
14, 100.. San  Luis  Peak.  .Saguache.  .Lake  City.   1^.154. Macomb  s  .Peak.. Hinsdale.  }  WneelGap- 

13,131..  Mesa  Peak Saguache.  .Lake  City.   12.673.  Bellevue  Peak..  .Rio  Grande.Del  Norte. 

12,840.. Bristol  Head.... Hinsdale.. . 13,081. Del  Norte  Peak.   Rio  Grande.Del  Norte. 

14,092.  .Red  Cloud Hinsdale..  .Lake  City.   13,347. Conejos Rio  Grande.  j  Pagosa 

14,149.  .Handies  Peak..  .Hinsdale..  .Lake  City.   12, 824. Banded  Peak Archuleta  ..  J  Springs. 

13,400.  .PoleCreekPeak.Hinsdale..  .Lake  City.   14,065.  Simpson's  Peak..Rio  Grande.Del  Norte. 
12,506.  .San  Juan  Peak.  .Hinsdale.. . 


NEEDLE  MOUNTAINS. 

A  series  of  short  ranges  on  the  west  side  of  the  Grand  Divide,  buttressing  the  San  Juan 
Mountains.    It  contains  many  high  isolated  peaks  named  and  unnamed. 


tight.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point.  Height.         Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

12,305  \  She^d0an1feak  \  La  Plata. .  .Durango.  14,055  {  *%%£$&   \  '  'San  Juan'  ■  ■  Needleton. 

14,054.  .^olus La  Plata. .  .Durango.  13,542. .  Mount  Kendall.San  Juan Silverton. 

14,051.  .Needle  Peak La  Plata. .  .Durango.  13,356.  .Mount  Canby.  .San  Juan Silverton. 

13,755.  .Mount  Oso La  Plata. .  .Durango.  13,550.  .King  Solomon. San  Juan Silverton. 

13,928.  .Pigeons  Peak La  Plata. .  .Durango.  13,501.  .Sultan San  Juan Silverton. 

13,357.  .The  Hunchback. San  Juan.  .Durango. 


330  OVER    THE   RANGE 

OURAY   MOUNTAINS. 

A  prolongation  of  the  San  Miguel  Mountains  to  the  north,  uniting  with  the  Uncompahgre 
chain,  which  runs  from  west  to  east. 

Height.                  Name.                                          County.                                                         Nearest  Point. 
14,340 Mount  Sneffels Ouray Ouray. 

SAN  MIGUEL  MOUNTAINS. 

Nearest 
Height.         Name.  County.  Nearest  Point.  Height.  Name.  County.        Point. 

14,075.  .Unnamed San  Miguel. Telluride.     13.890.  .Unnamed Dolores Rico. 

14,160.  .Lizard  Head  .  .San  Miguel. Trout  Lake.  12,703.  .Mount  Freeman. Dolores Rico. 

14,309.  ..Mount  Wilson. Dolores Ophir.  12,516.  .Mount  Elliott Dolores Rico. 

13,502.  .Dolores  Peak.  Dolores Ophir.  12,542.  .Anchor Doleres Rico. 

12,703..MountDolores.Dolores Rico.  12,635. .Lone  Cone..  .an  Miguel.Telluride. 

LA  PLATA  MOUNTAINS. 

Are  a  prolongation  south  of  the  San  Miguel  Range. 
Height.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

13,376 Hesperus Montezuma Dolores. 

13.456 Babcock La  Plata Durango. 

UNCOMPAHGRE   MOUNTAINS. 
This  range  is  short  and  runs  from  west  to  east.    It  contains  some  very  high  mountains, 
usually  at  right  angles-  to  the  chain. 
Height.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Paint. 

14,419 Uncompahgre Hinsdale Ouray. 

14,069 The  Wetterhorn Hinsdale Ouray. 

WASATCH   MOUNTAINS    (UTAH). 

This  is  the  principal  mountain  range  of  Utah  and  extends  from  north  to  south  through  the 

central  part  of  the  state.    Salt  Lake  City  lies  at  its  feet.    Some  of  its  peaks  are  snow-capped  the 

year  round.  Nearest 

Height.         Name.  County.     Nearest  Point.    Height.         Name.  Coanty.        Point. 

12  080  .Twin  Peaks. ...Salt  Lake.. Salt  Lake  City.  Timpanogos  .  ...Utah Provo. 

12,194.  .Monte  Cristo..  .Weber Ogden.  10,100.  .Mount  Heber. .  .Wasatch Heber. 

12i062.  .Clayton's Peak.  Wasatch. .  .Park  City. 

UINTAH   MOUNTAINS   (UTAH). 
The  general  trend  of  this  range  is  east  and  west.    It  is  just  north  of  the  Uintah  Indian 
reservation  near  the  Wyoming  line. 
Height.         Name.  County.  Nearest  Point.  Height.         Name.  County.    Nearest  Point. 

11  730.  .Mount  Baldy. .  .Wasatch Heber,         13,787.  .Gilbert Wasatch Heber. 

12!000.  .Mount  Agassi/.. Summit Heber.         12,000.  .Mount  Nebo Juab Goshen. 

13,000. .Wilson's Peak.  .Wasatch Heber. 

OQUIRRH  RANGE   (UTAH). 
This  is  the  beautiful  range  of  mountains  that  skirts  the  western  shores  of  Great  Salt  Lake 
and  extends  north  and  south  parallel  with  the  Wasatch  Mountains.    It  has  no  prominent  peaks, 
the  entire  range  averaging  an  elevation  of  9,000    to    10,000  feet.    Mount   Nebo  might  be 
considered  in  this  range,  which  joins  hands  on  the  south  with  the  mighty  Wasatch. 

HENRY   MOUNTAINS   (UTAH). 
Away  in  the  southeastern  corner  of  the  state  lie  the  Henry  Mountains,  the  Elk  Range,  the 
La  Sals,  and  the  Blue  Mountains.    These  have  recently  come  into  prominence  by  location  of 
valuable  mineral  deposits. 
Height.         Name.  County.  Nearest  Point.  Height.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

11, 470.. Mount  Ellen Garfield.  .Green  River.  13,000.  .Mount  Peale....San  Juan..  Thompson. 

11,050.  .Mount  Pennel..  .Garfield.  .Green  River.  12.271.  .Mount  Tomaski. Grand Thompson. 

11,000.  .Mount  Linnfeus.San  Juan.Thompson.     12,586.  .Mount  Waas  — Grand Thompson. 

DEEP  CREEK  MOUNTAINS  (UTAH). 
The  Deep  Creek  Range  extends  north  and  south  along  the  border  between  Utah  and 
Nevada.  These  mountains,  like  the  Parowan,  Iron,  and  numerous  other  small  ranges  in  the 
southwestern  portion,  are  but  spurs  of  the  main  mountain  range  known  as  the  Wasatch  and  of 
which  the  Oquirrhs  are  a  part.  There  are  numerous  peaks  with  an  elevation  of  8,000  to  10,000 
feet. 


TO    THE   GOLDEN   GATE. 


331 


MOUNTAIN  PASSES. 


Feet. 

Alpine  Pass 13.550 

Argentine  Pass 13,100 

Cocbetopa  Pass 10,032 

Hayden  Pass 10,780 

Trout  Creek  Pass. 9,346 

Berthoud  Pass 1 1.349 

Marshall  Pass 10,856 

Veta  Pass 9,392 


Feet. 

Poncha  Pass 8,945 

Tennessee  Pass 10,240 

Tarryall  Pass 12,176 

Breckenridge  Pass 9,490 

Cottonwood  Pass 1  3,500 

Fremont  Pass 11.540 

Mosquito  Pass 13,700 

Ute  Pass 11,200 


ELEVATION  OF  LAKES. 


Feet. 

Twin  Lakes 9,357 

Grand  Lake 8,153 

Green  Lakes 10.000 

Chicago  Lakes 11,500 

Evergreen  Lakes . .   10,500 


Feet. 

Seven  Lakes 11,806 

Palmer  Lake 7.238 

Cottonwood  Lake 7,700 

Trout  Lake 9.800 


ALTITUDES  OF  TOWNS  AND   CITIES. 

REVISED  SINCE  FIRST  EDITION   FROM  ENGINEER'S  MEASUREMENTS. 


Feet. 

Alamosa 7,546 

Animas  City 6,554 

Animas  Forks 11,200 

Antonito 7,888 

Aspen 7,874 

Buena  Vista 7,970 

Canon  City 5,344 

Castle  Rock 6,220 

Colorado  Springs 5,992 

Crested  Butte 8,875 

Creede 9,016 

Conejos 7,880 

Cottonwood  Springs 8,950 

Cuchara 5,943 

Cumbres 10,015 

Delta 4,983 

Del  Norte 7,880 

Denver 5,196 

Durango 6,520 

El  Moro 5,879 

Garland 7,936 

Granite 8,945 

Grand  Junction 4,594 

Gunnison 7,680 

Glenwood  Springs 5,758 

Howardsville 9,700 

Irwin 10,500 

Kokomo 10,614 

Lake  City 8,686 


Feet. 

La  Veta 7,024 

Leadville 10,200 

Los  Piuos 9,637 

Montrose 5,811 

Malta 9,580 

Mancos 7,008 

Manitou 6,318 

Ojo  Caliente 7,324 

Ouray 7,721 

Ogden,  Utah 4,286 

Pagosa  Springs 7,108 

Pinos,  Chama  Summit 9,902 

Poncha  Springs 7,480 

Palmer  Lake 7,238 

Pueblo 4,669 

Bed  Cliff 8,615 

Eidgway 7,002 

Robinson 10.861 

Rosita 8,500 

Ruby  Camp 10,500 

Saguache 7,723 

Salt  Lake  City 4,228 

Silver  Cliff 7,816 

Silverton 9,224 

Salida 7,050 

Telluride 8,756 

Trimble  Springs 6,575 

Westcliffe 7,864 

Wagon  Wheel  Gap 8,449 


PRONUNCIATION  OF  PROPER  NAMES. 


Acequia A-sa-kia 

Crested  Butte Crested  Bute 

Costillia Costea 

Canon Can-yon 

Cumbres Cum-breez 

Cuchara Cu-cha-ra 

Canejos Co-na-hos 

Chihuahua Che-wa-wa 

Huerfano. Wa- far-no 

La  Junta La  Hun-ta 

La  Jara La  Hara 

La  Veta La  Va-ta 

Manitou Man-i-too 

Monero Mo-na-ro 

Navajo Na-va-ho 


Ojo  Caliente O-ho  Cal-i-en-te 

Ojo O-ho 

Pueblo  de  Taos Pueblo-de-Tows 

Pifion Pin-yon 

Saguache Si-watch 

Sierra  Mojeda Sierra  Mo-ya-da 

Santa  Fe San-ta  Fay 

San  Juan San  M  an 

San  Miguel  San-me-gil 

Sapinero Sapi-na-ro 

Tlerra  Amarilla Tier  Ama-rea 

Trinchera Trin-chara 

Vallejo Vall-a-ho 

Wanatoya Wa-ha-toy-ya 


INDEX 

OF   TOWNS   AND   POINTS   OF   INTEREST 


COLORADO. 


Accquia 

Alamosa  to  Espanola  and  Santa  Fe. 

Alamosa  to  Silverton 

Alamosa 

Animas  Canon 

Antelope  Springs 

Antonito 

Arkansas  River 

Aspen  

Aspen  Branch  (D.  &  R.  G.  R.  R. ). 

Avalanche  Creek 

Bathing  at  Glenwood  Springs  .  . . . 
Bathing  Pool  at  Glenwood  Springs. 

Bear  Creek  Falls 

Black  Canon  of  the  Gunnison  .  .  .. 

Bowerman,  Camp 

Broadmoor 

Brown's  Canon 

Buena  Vista 

Burnham 

Canon  City 

Canon  of  the  Grand  River 

Carbondale 

Carlile  Springs 

Castle  Rock 

Cerro  Summit 

Cimarron 

Cimarron  Canon 

Chama 

Cheyenne  Mountain 

Chipeta  Falls 

Chrvsolite  Extension  (D.  &  R.  G. 

R.R.) 

Clark's  Magnetic  Springs 

Cliff  Dwellings 

Coal  Basin 

Coal  Creek  Branch 

Coal  Creek 

Colorado  City 

Colorado  Springs 

Cottonwood  Springs 

Crane's  Park 

Creede 

Creede  Branch 

Crested  Butte 

Crested  Butte  Branch 

Cripple  Creek 

Cripple  Creek  District 

Cripple  Creek  Short  Line 

Crystal  River  Railroad 


AGE. 

17 
105 
113 

99 
121 

i°3 
106 

142 
52 
5° 
52 
49 
5° 

r34 


23 
40 
40 
16 
33 
44 
5° 
31 
17 


117 


43 
3i 

125 

5  2 

33 
33 
23 
19 

40 

44 

10 3 

99 

82 

82 
27 
32 

25 
5° 


Cuchara  Junction 95 

Cumbres  Pass 117 

Curecanti  Needle 86 

Del  Norte 100 

Delta 90 

Denver 13 

Denver  to  Pueblo 13 

Dillon 143 

Dolores 129 

Dolores  Canon 129 

Douglas 17 

Downward  to  Dillon 143 

Dulce 117 

Durango 119 

Durango  to  Ridgway 125 

Eagle  River  Canon 46 

Eagle  River  Valley 46 

Elk  Park 123 

El  Moro 93 

Florence 32 

Florence  &  Cripple  Creek  R.  R.  ..     32 

Floresta 84 

Fort  Logan 16 

Fountain 29 

Fremont  Pass 142 

Fruita 57 

Garfield  Memorial 115 

Garland 96 

Glen  Park 19 

Glenwood  Springs 49 

Grand  Junsction 55 

Grand  River  Canon 47 

Grand  Valley 55 

Granite 40 

Gunnison 82 

Gunnison,  Canon  of  the 86 

Gunnison  River 86 

Hotchkiss 92 

Ignacio 119 

La  Jara 105 

Lake  City 84. 

Lake  City  Branch 84 

Lake  Fork  Canon 84 

La  Veta 95 

La  Veta  Pass 95 

Leadville 43 

Leadville  to  Dillon 140 

Littleton 16 

Lizard  Head  Pass 129 

Los  Pinos  Valley 113 


333 


334 


INDEX. 


COLORADO  —  Continued. 


PAGE. 

Lost  Canon 127 

Lumberton 117 

Mancos 127 

Manitou 23 

Marshall  Pass 80 

Minturn 46 

Missouri  River  to  Denver 9 

Mears  Junction 78 

Meeker 55 

Monarch  Branch 76 

Monte  Vista 99 

Montrose 88 

Monument 19 

Monument  Park 19 

Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross 44,  142 

Mount  Princeton  Hot  Springs  ....  40 

New  Castle 55 

North  Fork  Branch 90 

Ophir  Loop 131 

Ouray 134 

Ouray  to  Montrose 138 

Overland  Park 16 

Pagosa  Junction 117 

Pagosa  Springs 117 

Palmer  Lake 17 

Palmilla 106 

Paonia 92 

Parkdale 36 

Parnassus  Springs 31 

Penny's  Hot  Springs 52 

Perry  Park 17 

Petersburg 16 

Phantom  Curve 113 

Pike's  Peak 27 

Placita 52 

Poncha 76 

Poncha  Pass 78 

Poncha  Springs 76 

Preface 5 

Pueblo 29 

Pueblo  to  Ogden 32 

Pueblo  to  Alamosa 93 

Red  Cliff 44 


Red  Cliff  Canon 

Redstone 

Ridgway 131, 

Rico 

Rifle 

Romeo 

Royal  Gorge 

Royal  Gorge  Hot  Springs 

Salida 

Salida  to  Grand  Junction 

San  Luis  Valley  Branch 

San  Luis  Valley 

Sapinero  

Sedalia 

Sierra  Blanca 

Silverton 

Silverton  to  Montrose 

Spanish  Peaks 

Stage  Ride,  Ouray  Toll  Road  .... 

Steamboat  Springs 

Telluride 

Tennessee  Pass 

Texas  Creek 

Toltec  Gorge 

Tomichi  Meadows 

Trimb'e  Hot  Springs 

Trinidad 

Trinidad  Branch 

Trout  Fishing  in  the  Rio  Grande  . . 

Trout  Lake 

Twin  Lakes 

Valley  View  Hot  Springs 

Vance  Junction 

Vapor  Caves,  Glenwood  Springs  . . 

Villa  Grove 

Wagon  Creek  Junction 

Wagon  Wheel  Gap 

Walsenburg 

Waunita  Hot  Spring 

Wellsville  Hot  Springs 

West  Cliff 

West  Cliff  Branch 

Wolhurst 


AGE 

44 

5  2 

138 

129 

55 
106 

36 
34 
39 
76 

78 

97 
84 
17 
97 
123 

133 

93 

*33 

46 

131 
43 
36 

ir5 

82 

121 

93 
03 

103 

129 
42 
78 

131 
5° 
78 
96 

101 

95 
82 

39 
38 
36 
17 


UTAH. 


Alta 66 

American  Fork 64 

Bingham 66 

Bingham  Branch 66 

Bingham  Junction 65 

Book  Cliffs 57 

Brigham 304 

Cache  Junction 304 

Castle  Gate 59 

Climbing  the  Wasatch 57 

Colliston 304 

Colton 59 

Corinne 145 

Cottonwood  Branch 66 


Dewey 304 

Fort  du  Chesne 59 

Geological  Features 145 

Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado  ....  57 

Great  Salt  Lake 70 

Green  River 57 

Helper 50 

Hot  Springs 68 

Hot  Springs 304 

Jordan  River 66 

Kelton 146 

Kyune 59 

Lehi 65 

Logan 306 


INDEX. 


335 


UTAH  — Continued. 


Monument 146 

Ogden 144,  3°4 

Ogden  to  San  Francisco 144 

Ogden  to  Portland 304 

Oregon  Short  Line 304 

Park  City 73 

Park  City  Branch 73 

Pleasant  Valley  Branch 00 

Price 59 

Promontory 145 

Provo 62 

Provo  Canon  Branch 64 

Red  Narrows 60 

Saltair 72 

Salt  Lake 70 

Salt  Lake  City 66 


Salt  Lake  City  to  Ogden 74 

San  Pete  Branch 60 

Soldier's  Summit 60 

Spanish  Fork 62 

Spanish  Fork  Canon 61 

Springville 62 

Thistle  Junction 60 

Thompson's 57 

Tintic  Branch 62 

Towns  in  the  Desert 148 

Utah  Desert 57 

Utah  Lake 64 

Utah  Valley 61 

Warm  Springs 68 

"What  the  Engines  Said" 145 

Woodside 57 


NEW   MEXICO. 


Aztec 121 

Barranca 107 

Bloomfield 121 

Chama 117 

Comanche  Canon 108 

Dulce 117 

Embudo no 

Espanola no 

Espanola  to  Santa  Fe 1 1 1 


Farmington 121 

Indian  Pueblos no 

Lumberton 117 

Ojo  Caliente 107 

Pueblo  Santa  Cruz no 

Pueblo  San  Juan no 

Pueblo  de  Taos no 

Santa  Fe in 


NEVADA. 


Battle  Mountain 150 

Beowawe 150 

Brown's 153 

Carlin 149 

Carson  Lake 153 

Carson  City 154 

Cluro 150 

Desert 154 

Elko 149 

Golconda 150 

Gravelly  Ford 150 

Hot  Springs 153 

Humboldt 152 

Humboldt  Valley 149 

Humboldt  Palisades 149 

Humboldt  Lake 153 

Lake  Region 153 

Lovelocks 152 

Mirage 153 


Moores 148 

Mud  Lake 153 

Nevada  Desert 152 

Oreana 152 

Palisades  of  the  Humboldt 149 

Palisade 149 

Pyramid  Lake 153 

Rye  Patch 152 

Reno 154 

Sierra  Nevada  Range 155 

Toano 148 

Twelve  Mile  Canon 149 

Valley  Region 150 

Virginia  City 154 

Wadsworth 154 

Walker's  Lake 1^3 

Wells 148 

Winnemucca 152 

Winnemucca  Lake 153 


CALIFORNIA. 


Acton 226 

Ager 285 

Agnews 269 

Alameda 269 

Alameda  Mole 270 

Alameda  Point 269 

Alcatraz  Islan  1 176 


Alcatraz 233 

Alma 267 

Alvarado 269 

Alviso 269 

American  River  Bridge 162 

Anaheim 203 

Anderson 278 


336 


INDEX. 


CALIFORNIA  — Continued. 


PAGE. 

Angel  Island 176 

Antioch 180 

Antonio 235 

Aptos 250 

Arbuckle 289 

Arcadia 267 

Army  Point 166 

Arroyo  Grande 237 

Athlone 183 

Auburn 160 

Azusa 208 

Baden 265 

Bailey's 281 

Bakersfield 188 

Banta 166 

Bay  Shore 266 

Beach  Drive 237 

Belmont 264 

Benicia 166 

Ben  Lomond 266 

Bentwood 180 

Berenda 183 

Beresford 264 

Big  Trees 266,  273 

Boulder  Creek 206 

Bradley 242 

Bromela 236 

Buena  Park 203 

Burbank 225 

Burlingame 265 

Byron 180 

Byron  Hot  Springs 180 

Calaveras  Grove 273 

Caliente 188 

Callender 236 

Cameron 190 

Campbell 268 

Camulos 226 

Canons  of  the  Coast  Line 232 

Cape  Horn 160 

Capitan 233 

Capitola 252 

Carnadero 256 

Carpinteria 227 

Carquinez  Straits 166 

Cascade 159 

Casmalia 235 

Castle  Crag 281 

Castroville 246 

Centerville 269 

Channel  Country 228 

Chatsworth  Park 225 

Chico 277 

Chico  Vecino 278 

Chualar 244 

City  Hall  (San  Francisco) 174 

Clem 267 

Cliff  House 169,  175 

Cliff  Trip 230 

Climate 2t8 


PAGE. 

Climbing  the  Sierra  Nevadas 158 

Coast  Line 225 

Colfax 160 

Colma 265 

Colton 209 

Colusa  Junction 289 

Compton 194 

Concepcion 233 

Congress  Springs 268 

Corning 286 

Coronado 

Crag  View 

Cucamonga 

Cupertino 

Davis 

Del  Monte 

Donnor  Lake 

Downey 

Duarte 

Dunnigan 

Dutch  Flat 

Eden  Vale 

Edgewood 

Edna 

Edwards  City 

Elmira 

Elsinore  Lake 

Elwood 

Emigrant  Gap 

Fair  Oaks 

Famoso 

Felton 

Fernando  

Fillmore 

Finello 

Florence 

Fresno  

Gato 

Gaviota 

Germantown    

Gilroy 

Gilroy  Hot  Springs 

Glenwood 

Goleta 

Golden  Gate  Park 1 7c, 

Gonzales 

Goshen 

Goshen  Division 

Grover 

Guadalupe 

Historic  Ground 

Hollister 

Hopkins  Institute  of  Art 

Horn,  Cape 

Horseshoe  Incline 

Independence  Lake  

Irrigation 

Jalama 

Kern  River  Oil  Region 

Keswick 


218 
281 
220 
268 
164 
247 
158 
203 


159 
257 
285 

237 
233 
166 
210 
230 

159 
264 
188 
266 
225 
226 
286 

104 
184 

233 
233 
288 
256 
256 
267 
230 

174 
244 
186 
186 
237 
235 
159 
255 
174 
160 
238 
158 
187 

234 
188 
280 


INDEX. 


337 


CALIFORNIA  -Continued. 


PAGE. 

Kingsburg 185 

King's  City 243 

King's  River 186 

Kirkwood 288 

La  Honda 264 

Lake  Tahoe 155 

Lamanda  Park 205 

Lathrop 180 

Laurel 267 

Lawrence 262 

Le  Franc 268 

Libraries  (San  Francisco) 176 

Lick  Observatory 258 

Lincoln 275 

Lompoc 234 

Lompoc  Valley 228,  234 

Long  Beach 196 

Los  Alamitos 203 

Los  Angeles 191 

Los  Angeles  to  San  Diego 205 

Los  Angeles  to  Santa  Barbara  ....  225 

Los  Gatos 267 

Madear 184 

Madrone 257 

Markets  (San  Francisco) 176 

Martinez 178 

Marysville 275 

Matilija  Hot  Springs 227 

Mayfield 262 

Maywood  Colony 286 

Maxwell 289 

McKittrick 188 

Meehan 267 

Menlo  Park 264 

Merced 183 

Metz 243 

Millbrae 265 

Mint  (San  Francisco) 176 

Mission  Dolores 173,  176 

Mission  Santa  Barbara 228 

Monterey 247 

Monterey  County 242 

Modesto 183 

Mojave 190,  226 

Mojave  Desert 190 

Monrovia 208 

Montague 285 

Montalvo 226 

Morganhill 257 

Morocojo 246 

Mott 282 

Mount  Eden 269 

Mount  Lowe 202 

Mount  Tamalpais 176 

Mountain  View 262 

Murietta 2  ro 

Muir's  Peak 284 

Naples 232 

Narlon 235 

Narrow  Gauge  Line 266 


PAGE. 

National  City 216 

Neponset 246 

New  Almaden 268 

Newark 269 

New  Castle 160 

Newhall 190,  225 

Newport 204 

New  Roseville 2 18 

Nordhoff 227 

Norman 288 

Norwalk 203 

Oakland 176 

Oakland  Mole 166 

Oceano 237 

Oceano  to  San  Miguel 237 

Oceanside 210 

Oceanview 265 

Ontario 220 

Opal 252 

Orange 204 

Orella 233 

Orland 288 

Oroville 276 

Overhanging  Rock 233 

Oxnard 226 

Pacific  Grove 249 

Pajaro 250 

Palo  Alto 262 

Paraiso  Springs m 244 

Pasadena 199 

Paso  Robles 239 

Paso  Robles  Hot  Springs 239 

Pescadero 264 

Pinnacles,  The 243 

Pinole 166 

Piru 226 

Plains  Region 162 

Point  Arguello 234 

Pomona 223 

Port  Costa 166 

Port  Los  Angeles 199 

Post  Office  (San  Francicso) 175 

Presidio  Reservation 175 

Railway  Offices  (San  Fransicso)  . .  176 

Raymond 205 

Red  Bluff 278 

Redding 280 

Redwood  City 264 

Redwood  Forest 264 

Richfield 286 

Riverside,  East 209 

Riverside,  South    209 

Riverside 210 

River  Traffic 182 

Rocklin 162 

Roseville  Junction 162 

Roseville 218 

Russell 269 

Sacate 233 

Sacramento 162 


338 


INDEX. 


CALIFORNIA  —Continued. 


PAGE. 

Sacramento  Canon 281 

Salinas 244 

San  Antonio  Mission 243 

San  Ardo 242 

San  Augustine 233 

San  Benito  County 254 

San  Benito  Valley 254 

San  Bernardino 208 

San  Bernardino  County  and 

Valley 209 

San  Bruno 265 

San  Buenaventura 227 

San  Carlos 264 

San  Diego 212 

San  Diego  Bay 214 

San  Diego  to  Los  Angeles 218 

San  Fernando 190 

San  Fernando  Tunnel 190 

San  Francisco 1 68 

San  Francisco,  South    265 

San  Francisco  Bay    171 

San  Francisco  to  San  Diego 168 

San  Francisco  to  the  Great  North- 
west . 275 

San  Gabriel 202 

San  Gabriel  Valley 206 

San  Joaquin  Valley 180 

San  Jose 255,  258 

San  Juan 254 

San  Juan  County 254 

San  Lucas 242 

San  Luis  Obispo 237 

San  Luis  Obispo  County 237 

San  Martin 257 

San  Mateo 265 

San  Miguel 242 

San  Pedro 194 

Santa  Ana 204 

Santa  Anita 233 

Santa  Barbara 228 

Santa  Catalina 194 

Santa  Clara 262 

Santa  Clara  Mission 260 

Santa  Clara  Valley 255 

Santa  Cruz 252 

Santa  Cruz  and  Broad  Gauge  Line.  250 

Santa  Cruz  Mountains 266 

Santa  Margarita 239 

Santa  Maria 236 

Santa  Maria  Valley 228 

Santa  Monica 197 

Santa  Paula 226 

Santa  Ysabel 240 

Saratoga  Springs 268 

Saticoy 226 

Saugus 225 

Schumann 235 

Seal  Rocks 169,  175 

Selma 185 

SesDe  Canon 226 


PAGE. 

Shasta 284 

Shasta  Region 281 

Shasta  Retreat 282 

Shasta  Springs 282 

Shore  Trip  to  Santa  Cruz 250 

Short  Tours  Adjacent  to  Los 

Angeles 194 

Sierra  Madre  Villa 206 

Sierra  Nevada  Range 158 

Sims 281 

Sisson 282 

Sixteenth  St.  Station 166 

Soda  Springs 159 

Soledad 243 

Soldier's  Home 199 

Somis 227 

Southward  Bound 178 

Spreckle's  Sugar  Factory 246 

Stanford  Stock  Farm 264 

Stanford  University 262 

Stockton 182 

Summerland 227 

Summit  (Sierra  Nevadas) 159 

Sunnyvale 262 

Surf 234 

Sutro  Baths 175 

Sutro  Heights 175 

Sweet  Brier 281 

Sweetwater  Dam 218 

Tahoe,  Lake 155 

Tajiguas 233 

Tangair 235 

Tassajara  Springs 246 

Tehachapi  Pass 189 

Tehachapi  Summit 189 

Tehama 278 

Templeton 239 

Tipton 187 

Tracy 180 

Traver 186 

Tropico 225 

Truckee 15  s 

Tulare 187 

Tulare  County 187 

Tustin 204 

Union  Mill 267 

Upper  Soda  Springs 282 

Upton 284 

Valencia  Street 265 

Vallejo  Junction 166 

Visalia 186 

Waldorf 235 

Watsonville 250 

Webber  Lake 158 

Webster 164 

West  San  Leandro 269 

West  San  Lorenzo 269 

West  Side 286 

Wheatland -275 

Whittier 207 


INDEX. 


339 


CALIFORNIA      Continued. 


PAGE. 

Wildomar 210 

Williams 289 

Willows 288 

Wilson's  College 194 

Wright 267 


PAGE, 

Yolo 289 

Yosemite,  To  the 271 

Yosemite  Valley 271 

Yuba  River 275 

Zayante 267 


IDAHO. 


American  Falls 311 

Bellevue 311 

Blackfoot 307 

Bliss 312 

Boise  City 312 

Caldwell 314 

Dubois 307 

Franklin 306 

Glenn's  Ferry 312 

Hailev .    312 

Harrison 320 

Idaho  Falls 307 

Ketchum 312 

Kimama 311 

Lewiston 319 

Market  Lake 307 


McCammon 306 

Meridian 312 

Minidoka 311 

Mountain  Home 312 

Moscow 320 

Nampa 312 

Oxford 306 

Payette 314 

Preston 306 

Pocatello 314 

Shoshone 311 

Spencer 307 

Wallace 320 

Wardner 320 

Weiser 314 


MONTANA. 


Butte 311 

Dillon 310 

Divide 310 

Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone  . .  308 

Lima 310 


Melrose 310 

Monida 307 

Silver  Bow 311 

Yellowstone  National  Park  .  ..307,  308 


OREGON. 


Albany 292 

Ashland 290 

Arlington 323 

Athena 318 

Baker  City 314 

Bfggs 324 

Bingham  Springs 316 

Bonneville 325 

Cascade  Locks 325 

Columbia  River 323 

Dalles 324 

Divide 292 

Durkee 314 

Echo 319 

Elgin 316 

Eugene 292 

Fairview '. .   326 

Heppner 323 

Heppner  Junction 323 

Hilgard 316 

Hood,  Mount 324 

Hood  River 324 

Hot  Lake 315 

Huntington 314 


Jacksonville 

Kamela  . 

Lalourelle 

Le  Grande 

Manufacturing 

Magnificent  Harbor 

Meacham 

Modern  Improvements 

Mosier 

Multonomah  Falls 

Mount  Hood 

Oregon  City 

Oregon  Railway  &  Navigation  Co. 

Oregon  and  the  Siskiyou 

Pacific  Ocean  Trip 

Pendleton 

Perry 

Picturesque  Surroundings 

Pleasant  Valley 

Portland 

Portland  to  San  Francisco 

Rogue  River  Valley 

Roseburg 

Salem 


290 
316 
326 
316 

295 
299 
316 
295 
324 
326 

324 
293 
3i4 
290 
326 
316 
3i6 
296 
3M 
293 
326 
290 
292 
292 


34° 


INDEX. 
OREGON  —  Continued. 


Scenic  Attractions 292 

Siskiyou  Station 290 

State  Line 290 

Troutdale 326 


Umatilla 319 

Umpqua  Valley  .     292 

Union 315 

Viento 325 


WASHINGTON. 


Bolles 318 

Climate  of  Puget  Sound 297 

Colfax 319 

Dayton 318 

Fairfield 322 

Garfield 320 

La  Crosse 519 

Latah 320 

Magnificent  Harbor 299 

Okesdale 320 

Pomeroy 318 

Pullman 320 

Rockford  .  .    322 

Seattle 300 

Seattle,  Advantages  of 302 


Seattle,  Beauty  of 

Spokane  

Starbuck  

Tacoma 

Tea  Trade  with  the  Orient 

Tekoa  

Terminal  and  Shipping  Facilities. 

Trade  with  the  Middle  West 

Trade  with  South  America  and 

Mexico 

Waitsburg 

Walla  Walla 

Wallula 

Waverlev - 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


Altitude  of  Mountain   Peaks   and 
Passes 328 

Altitude  of  Mountain  Passes 331 


Altitude  of  Lakes 

Altitudes  of  Towns  and  Cities  . . 
Pronunciation  of  proper  names  . 


302 
322 
3i8 
296 
300 
320 
299 
299 


3i8 
3i8 
3JQ 
322 


331 

33* 
33* 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  AT  LOS  ANGELES 

University  of  California 

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UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 


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